Ok, 2023 calling. The ASAIR plus has a built in plate solver, and displays the rotation angle automatically for every photo taken. The phone app also has an adjustment mode where it displays the exact camera angle every 3 seconds as you manually rotate it, could not be easier.
I have found that I slew to my intended target, plate solve to get the angle. Then check my framing in telescopius and manuely rotate accordingly. Luckily my redcat51 has a rotator with markings 🙏
Hey Ian. NINA actually has a very good tool for this, you can frame your target in the framing wizard and then select Slew, Center and Rotate option. It plate solves the image and then tells you how far clockwise or anti clockwise to rotate your camera. It continues to plate solve until it's within a tolerance. Hopefully ASI add something similar.
many thanks Ian. Pls can I ask one (potentially very stupid) question: you are doing this to try and get your camera in the right position from the start, so that you don't have to move it again after polar alignment. Does that mean that you set the camera angle whilst the mount is at the home position, i.e. mount position for setting camera angle is same position as for polar alignment? thanks!
Hi Tim, thanks for watching. Yes I like to set my camera angle before I polar align. So I usually do it with the telescope on my bench,as it is flat, and I can get the angle right(ish). I can always change it after polar alignment if I’m a bit out but rarely do as I just want everything simple from PA onwards. Clear skies Ian
Hi, and many thanks. I always put the details in the description under my videos, so you can see it there, it is the Buckeyestsrgazer camera rotation level, and the ZWO 78mm Body Camera version for the ASI294MC pro, I got mine from First Light Optics here in the UK, Kr Ian
Excellent video! I was just thinking of taping around the camera with the degrees to see if it works. Anyway, it is still not clear to me if the camera is rotated to the desired angle when the mount is pointing to the polar (PA) or if I should rotate the camera when it is already aiming at the subject I want to photograph. Can you clarify it for me? Thank you!!
Hi Adriana, Many thanks, I think it is best to set your camera angle before you polar align, as I suspect moving it afterwards may lose your polar alignment. Though I might test this in a future video. See comment from Ollie that if you are using NINA rather than the ASIAIR Pro you can get the right angle you want through that software, after Polar Aligning. Kind regards Ian.
@@astrotimetraveller4622 I thought the Polar Alignment was for the mount. That should never be affected whether or not you ever rotate that imaging camera. No different than a Star / Sky tracker, which gets polar aligned, and then the imaging camera (many times a DSLR) gets mounted in some odd fashion.
Hi, is the angular oddity on plate solving because you are using an alt AZ frame of reference? Ie assuming your 0, 90, 180 and 270 are local to your telescope axis and not RA/Dec?
Thank you for uploading. I had the opportunity to see a rocket launch in 2018. Memorable experience. I uploaded a pretty cool video of the journey to my page.
Hi Mike, many thanks, I use the standard Skywatcher rotator for the Evostar 72ED, the full name is in the description below the video, I think it was about £17 from First Light Optics about a year ago. Kr Ian
@@astrotimetraveller4622 thank you sir.....now I know what that device is that I couldn't identify in your video. I will check it out....I have been trying to figure out how to change the angle on my 294MC Pro camera. Looking forward to your next vid
This is trying to fix a problem that doesn’t exist, it’s easy to estimate the cardinal and inter-cardinal degrees… how do you set, say, 57 deg with this… serious waste of time and money.
Thanks Olly, it’s not perfect, but at £16 it’s not very expensive and it does get me well aligned to the cardinals, yes I could do it to a degree without, but it works for me, so for the five minutes it took to install and the £16 not much of a waste of my time or money, kr Ian
Seems abit pointless.. the air gives you the rotation, then astromany nett but you're still guessing..Seems logical to use whatever you're going to use for imaging and then continue to use the same method when you add more data .. limiting stacking artifacts on your well earned data.. the bubble level seems a pointless gimmick
Derek, thanks for your comment, I think the bubble levels can be useful, as a good guide to the rotation and if you don’t wish to move your camera after Polar alignment. My recent video on planning and accuracy on the Orion and Horsehead nebula showed it can be helpful to get unusual sensor angles to say create a mosaic. Yes there are other methods but I will continue with this at present. Kr Ian
@@astrotimetraveller4622 Thanks Ian, but why don't you just use your Plate solving software and adjust your camera angle.. seems a long winded way to do it and without accuracy..
@@derekregan6926 Sorry I thought that’s what you were suggesting in your first thread, I don’t move mine hence getting sensor where I want it prior to PA.Kr Ian
Ok, 2023 calling. The ASAIR plus has a built in plate solver, and displays the rotation angle automatically for every photo taken. The phone app also has an adjustment mode where it displays the exact camera angle every 3 seconds as you manually rotate it, could not be easier.
I have found that I slew to my intended target, plate solve to get the angle. Then check my framing in telescopius and manuely rotate accordingly. Luckily my redcat51 has a rotator with markings 🙏
Hey Ian. NINA actually has a very good tool for this, you can frame your target in the framing wizard and then select Slew, Center and Rotate option. It plate solves the image and then tells you how far clockwise or anti clockwise to rotate your camera. It continues to plate solve until it's within a tolerance. Hopefully ASI add something similar.
Ollie, that's good to know, I'm all in with the ASIAir Pro, so yes I hope they add something similar to make this easier. Kr Ian
5:08 You really jinxed it with the washer. Straight into the cooling system :D
Anima, thanks, yeah I managed to shake it out fairly quickly, kr Ian
many thanks Ian. Pls can I ask one (potentially very stupid) question: you are doing this to try and get your camera in the right position from the start, so that you don't have to move it again after polar alignment. Does that mean that you set the camera angle whilst the mount is at the home position, i.e. mount position for setting camera angle is same position as for polar alignment? thanks!
Hi Tim, thanks for watching. Yes I like to set my camera angle before I polar align. So I usually do it with the telescope on my bench,as it is flat, and I can get the angle right(ish). I can always change it after polar alignment if I’m a bit out but rarely do as I just want everything simple from PA onwards. Clear skies Ian
Muchas gracias por su video. Me ha sido de utilidad.
Hi Ian. Thank s for the interesting video. Can you point me to the bubble level device you used here?
Hi, and many thanks. I always put the details in the description under my videos, so you can see it there, it is the Buckeyestsrgazer camera rotation level, and the ZWO 78mm Body Camera version for the ASI294MC pro, I got mine from First Light Optics here in the UK, Kr Ian
would it not be better to somehow making guide marks along the rim of the back of the camera?
Hi Nick, yes I'm sure you could do that too, it would be good if ZWO did this on their cameras. Kr Ian
Bonjour, ou avez-vous trouvé les niveaux à bulles qui vont sur la caméra.
Merci
I describe in the comments below the video. I got mine from First Light Optics of Exeter in the UK, kind regards Ian
Excellent video! I was just thinking of taping around the camera with the degrees to see if it works. Anyway, it is still not clear to me if the camera is rotated to the desired angle when the mount is pointing to the polar (PA) or if I should rotate the camera when it is already aiming at the subject I want to photograph.
Can you clarify it for me?
Thank you!!
Hi Adriana, Many thanks, I think it is best to set your camera angle before you polar align, as I suspect moving it afterwards may lose your polar alignment. Though I might test this in a future video. See comment from Ollie that if you are using NINA rather than the ASIAIR Pro you can get the right angle you want through that software, after Polar Aligning. Kind regards Ian.
@@astrotimetraveller4622 I thought the Polar Alignment was for the mount. That should never be affected whether or not you ever rotate that imaging camera. No different than a Star / Sky tracker, which gets polar aligned, and then the imaging camera (many times a DSLR) gets mounted in some odd fashion.
Hi, is the angular oddity on plate solving because you are using an alt AZ frame of reference? Ie assuming your 0, 90, 180 and 270 are local to your telescope axis and not RA/Dec?
Where did you
get the camera level?
Hi Tom, First Light Optics of Exeter. Kr Ian
Thank you for uploading. I had the opportunity to see a rocket launch in 2018. Memorable experience. I uploaded a pretty cool video of the journey to my page.
Many thanks, Kr Ian
Well done....question, what device are you using to rotate the camera to the various angles ?
Hi Mike, many thanks, I use the standard Skywatcher rotator for the Evostar 72ED, the full name is in the description below the video, I think it was about £17 from First Light Optics about a year ago. Kr Ian
@@astrotimetraveller4622 thank you sir.....now I know what that device is that I couldn't identify in your video. I will check it out....I have been trying to figure out how to change the angle on my 294MC Pro camera.
Looking forward to your next vid
I have only just use the USB ports to get them aligned to the top of the scope.
This is trying to fix a problem that doesn’t exist, it’s easy to estimate the cardinal and inter-cardinal degrees… how do you set, say, 57 deg with this… serious waste of time and money.
Thanks Olly, it’s not perfect, but at £16 it’s not very expensive and it does get me well aligned to the cardinals, yes I could do it to a degree without, but it works for me, so for the five minutes it took to install and the £16 not much of a waste of my time or money, kr Ian
Seems abit pointless.. the air gives you the rotation, then astromany nett but you're still guessing..Seems logical to use whatever you're going to use for imaging and then continue to use the same method when you add more data .. limiting stacking artifacts on your well earned data.. the bubble level seems a pointless gimmick
Derek, thanks for your comment, I think the bubble levels can be useful, as a good guide to the rotation and if you don’t wish to move your camera after Polar alignment. My recent video on planning and accuracy on the Orion and Horsehead nebula showed it can be helpful to get unusual sensor angles to say create a mosaic. Yes there are other methods but I will continue with this at present. Kr Ian
@@astrotimetraveller4622 Thanks Ian, but why don't you just use your Plate solving software and adjust your camera angle.. seems a long winded way to do it and without accuracy..
@@astrotimetraveller4622 And why are you moving your camera after PA..
@@derekregan6926 Sorry I thought that’s what you were suggesting in your first thread, I don’t move mine hence getting sensor where I want it prior to PA.Kr Ian