I own D850. The histogram looks different in my camera DSLR screen and different in the ACR, while editing; Usually throws it to the left dark site. The shadows are deep, the colours are darker. Is it incompatibility of the equipment, high mgpxls camera or..? What shall I do to avoid this?It is ruining my pics. Thx
Tony, you make histograms so chill. You're just a chill dude editing some chill photos with some chill histograms. If there was a chill histogram you'd be all the way to the right. Keep up the chill work, man.
I tried searching for a video on your channel a few weeks ago and couldn't find anything like this but now it's here! Really makes more sense now - I'll have to put it to use now, appreciate all the good content you guys put out! :)
Excellent explanation Tony! Love your content, though I am curious about why you would want to expose to the right- I always thought it was best practice to expose to the left in order to be able to recover highs later in post.
There are professionals who don't know how to explain the technicalities of photography but you are not one of them. I can't thank you enough for excellent and informative tutorials. I wish you did underwater photography so I could learn more about that area.
Thanks Tony 😊 ... this is the single most important post you've done (to me). I actually picked up skill that I never bothered with and it is awesome. I tried what you discussed and played with some images that I thought were throw aways, and fixed them; some with stunning results 🤔. Big props 👏 Alvin
Great video and information. Amazing how small knowledge gems such as this will make the understanding your camera simpler and improve our photography. Thanks Tony
Many don't use histogram or just ignores it these days but the benefits of it are amazing...you can correct your picture's contrast, brightness etc then and there from just seeing the histogram, and changing the camera settings. Then there is not much need to edit every photograph
Guys, thank you very much! Your videos are just treasure for a newbie like me. The more I watch the more I understand I was a monkey with camera, and now finally I evolve :)
thank you for a great and informative video. I had no knowledge of how histograms worked before watching this, and now it really makes sense. keep up the great work
These videos are amazing! So informative and really well thought-out. I love your content and the books you are selling are at such a great price point. It really shows that you're trying to make photography accessible to everyone.
Very useful. Regardless of how much I think I know about a particular element of photography, I was learn something new about it from your videos :) Although, I was waiting for the part where you talked about live histograms shown on the camera screen and how to react to what they're showing.
Much good information. Where the RGB histogram has advantages over the luminance histogram is where there is a disproportionate amount of one colour. Imagine taking a close-up shot of an orange flower, surrounded by dark green leaves (don't sound like a very exciting shot, but plenty of people take images like that). If you expose to the right using the luminance histogram you may well find that the petals look rather flat and lack contour. Look at the RGB histogram and you will probably see that the red channel is blown and the exposure needs to be reduced to avoid this. Small point but can save your bacon in some circumstances. Otherwise, nicely put.
How often you can find a pro teaching photography features like this on youtube? Different screen calibrations is never a problem after Tony's explanation of histogram.
Histograms are a dark art, but you have just enlightened me. Thank you Chelsea's assistant for exposing me to this tutorial. It's as clear as black and white now. :p
Hi Tony and Chelsea, Great channel and by far one of the best among the photographers! Keep up the good work! Said that, do you know if the Nikon D610 has a histogram in live view? I can't really find info about that on the net...
Hi, Tony . First congratulations for all your hard work is very helpfull. ofcourse I am your follower in all plataform. I am very new on this world of photography. My question: Using a Canon mirrorles M50 in manual mode when I read the histogram some time is overxpose or under. I use the shutter speed or aperture until I see the histogram in my camera display right. Even when is fine on the display I can see on the exposure bar maybe one stop over or under. I took the picture and looks great. My question is when the histogram is fixed it doesnt matter the exposure display bar in my camera. Sorry maybe is a silly question, but you are the master
Hi! Your videos are awesome. Thanks so much! In Lightroom when I look at the histogram....if the triangle on the right is white, that means something is blown out. Sometimes when I bring down the highlights a bit, the white triangle disappears and I've gotten rid of the blown out area (?), but then the triangle turns to a color...like red, blue or yellow. What does this mean and is it a good or bad thing?
Thanks and I was aware of the histogram but didn't use it much. And yes I have been fooled by looking at the screen on my camera so let's ad this tip to my bag of tricks. On a separate note our big screen TV has UA-cam built in great.... but I do not see a like button or way to add coments so I jump back to the phone... any suggestions.
Tony & Chelsea, really enjoy all your videos there so helpful and interesting! Was just wondering how can I send in a couple of photos for you to review on one of them videos you do photos of 2016? Iv got about 3 photos that I would really love you to have a look at 2 that iv taken on my 1100D and 1 on my new 7D both using the same 50mm F1.8 and edited in Lightroom.. Keep giving us these videos all the best for 2017 from Giles in UK London
So it’s like an eq for audio but for an image instead? Low end is on the left, high end is on the right, and you can adjust each “pitch” to add more “black” or “white”. An image needs dynamics, just like an audio track.
Hey, thanks for the good content. Do you happen to have a video about organizing old photos? I inherited a massive dataset of old family photos (digital and scans of old developed photographs) with duplicates and different formats and file sizes. I have a hard time to sort them since I don't know where to start. I really would appreciate if you could recommend some software or make a vid about this. Thx.
Hello Tony. Great video series. Learning a lot. Question. The company I work for wants me to set up the ability to make videos like yours (talking in front of camera, then switching to what's on the monitor) Not for photography though, for stock market. In any case. How are you set up?
Hi, Tony. Love your videos and tutorials. I'm looking for a little more hands on training with DSLR photography and Lightroom editing. I'm in Columbia, SC. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you for any guidance you can offer.
I use the histogram all the time if I'm shooting in bright conditions, or else take a test image and dial in any required compensation after checking it. Whichever method I use, the histogram is at the heart of it.....
He says that color histogram is not very useful. I think it's very useful, because the luminosity histogram is just an overage of the colors and does not tell if some color component is overexposed. It's quite common that especially sunlit faces get overexposed in the red color, sky in blue, and vegetation in green. Overexposed areas are flat and post-processing is impossible. Another issue is with the recommendation that you should shoot bright, because there's less noise in the upper part. This is true in the sense that while CCD or CMOS cells themselves are mostly linear, the signal-to-noise ratio is better in the bright end. In JPEG images, you also have less noise in the bright end, because they are flattened out in the logarithmic scale. However, logarithmic flattening and packing into 8 bits also loses much of the linear information, which is why it's better to either shoot raw or underexpose. Further, shooting in raw does not always save from the problem, because the CCD and CMOS cells have an internal _antiblooming_ feature, which makes images nonlinear in the brighter end and hence you lose information.
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Tony & Chelsea Northrup e
I own D850. The histogram looks different in my camera DSLR screen and different in the ACR, while editing; Usually throws it to the left dark site. The shadows are deep, the colours are darker. Is it incompatibility of the equipment, high mgpxls camera or..? What shall I do to avoid this?It is ruining my pics. Thx
Thanks for the sharing ❤
Tony, I really find your style of teaching to be very soothing and informative. Thanks for doing what you do.
Tony, you make histograms so chill. You're just a chill dude editing some chill photos with some chill histograms. If there was a chill histogram you'd be all the way to the right. Keep up the chill work, man.
Thanks Chelsea and Tony...
following all your videos with a lot of attention and trying to repeat your tips and tricks..
Hug from Portugal
Nicely explained Tony! Keep making great content!
Peter Bucek фиффффффффффффффффффиффффффффффффффффффффффффффф
Like your proflile pic; I'd guess that's a recent eclipse photo?
Mac Battle Indeed, took it with my telescope last year.
Tony... I cannot tell you how much I enjoy your videos! So much good info!
Wow, I just learned so much about the histogram. Thank you so much! The information you give us is priceless and so is SDP book!
thank you, finally i got the whole histogram mystery cleared in my head. keep up the good work, greetings from germany.
I tried searching for a video on your channel a few weeks ago and couldn't find anything like this but now it's here! Really makes more sense now - I'll have to put it to use now, appreciate all the good content you guys put out! :)
Thanks, Kelvin!
Got the book last month and love it! Joined the group and loving it! And now thinking of buying the book for a friend on his birthday!
Solid explanation on histogram values. Really enjoyed this video. Keep it up, Tony.
Excellent explanation Tony! Love your content, though I am curious about why you would want to expose to the right- I always thought it was best practice to expose to the left in order to be able to recover highs later in post.
Check out ua-cam.com/video/MfvwqcmM6FQ/v-deo.html
This is probably the best explanation of histograms I have come across. Thank you!
There are professionals who don't know how to explain the technicalities of photography but you are not one of them. I can't thank you enough for excellent and informative tutorials. I wish you did underwater photography so I could learn more about that area.
one of my most useful youtube subscriptions .
thanks Tony.
Great info Tony!! I love your presentation skills as well, very well said!
Excellent advice as usual. One of these days I'm going to buy both your books I promise!
As a phtpgrapher, you never stop learning. Today, i learned the importantes of the right side of the histogram. :)
Fantastic!! I'm a beginner & have been trying to grasp the histogram....this was very informative & easy to understand! Thanks you!
Thanks Tony 😊 ... this is the single most important post you've done (to me). I actually picked up skill that I never bothered with and it is awesome. I tried what you discussed and played with some images that I thought were throw aways, and fixed them; some with stunning results 🤔. Big props 👏
Alvin
I am fan of you Mr. Tony, i have learnt alot from your videos and still learning.
Thanks alot for your efforts also thanks to Ms. Cheksea 😊
Thanks!
Tony & Chelsea Northrup and
Thanks for the videos, I've seen a few and you are really talented explaining stuff
I enjoyed this video. It was explained in a simple easy to learn way. Thanks Tony.
Great video and information. Amazing how small knowledge gems such as this will make the understanding your camera simpler and improve our photography. Thanks Tony
Thanks Tony, you're video explanations are always great.
Thank you so much for this one! I always knew to use the histogram but I needed to really understand it before being able to use it.
Many don't use histogram or just ignores it these days but the benefits of it are amazing...you can correct your picture's contrast, brightness etc then and there from just seeing the histogram, and changing the camera settings. Then there is not much need to edit every photograph
Thank you for the videos you and Chelsea uploaded, I learned a lot from both of you.
Guys, thank you very much! Your videos are just treasure for a newbie like me. The more I watch the more I understand I was a monkey with camera, and now finally I evolve :)
thank you for a great and informative video. I had no knowledge of how histograms worked before watching this, and now it really makes sense. keep up the great work
Well explained Tony! altough I sometimes prefere washing out the black tones, I think it gives a more relaxed feel to an image.
These videos are amazing! So informative and really well thought-out. I love your content and the books you are selling are at such a great price point. It really shows that you're trying to make photography accessible to everyone.
Very useful. Regardless of how much I think I know about a particular element of photography, I was learn something new about it from your videos :)
Although, I was waiting for the part where you talked about live histograms shown on the camera screen and how to react to what they're showing.
As always, very clear and distinctly helpful. Thanks.
Much good information. Where the RGB histogram has advantages over the luminance histogram is where there is a disproportionate amount of one colour. Imagine taking a close-up shot of an orange flower, surrounded by dark green leaves (don't sound like a very exciting shot, but plenty of people take images like that). If you expose to the right using the luminance histogram you may well find that the petals look rather flat and lack contour. Look at the RGB histogram and you will probably see that the red channel is blown and the exposure needs to be reduced to avoid this. Small point but can save your bacon in some circumstances. Otherwise, nicely put.
Thanks. Your usual in-depth excellent coverage. You did present some precise/ideas I hadn't yet dealt with. Good stuff!
How often you can find a pro teaching photography features like this on youtube? Different screen calibrations is never a problem after Tony's explanation of histogram.
I think some washed out image looks really good and adds a stylistic look or vintage style.
Yeah there are some instances where you just just ignore the histogram. It's just down to personal preference in the end.
Histograms are a dark art, but you have just enlightened me. Thank you Chelsea's assistant for exposing me to this tutorial. It's as clear as black and white now. :p
6:18 that noise scared the hell out of me haha
Thank you Tony. Excellent explanation and remainder.
Thanks for the refresher. My new D7200 offers this in the field. Very handy.
Thank you , Great information. I am wondering how do you read histogram before taking picture if you doing a long exposure or a night photography ?
Love your video's man, easy and pleasent to follow and understandable explanations. I will be buying a book of you someday soon :D
Another really useful video, thank you!
On 9:22 you probably meant 4 times more NOISE, rather than 4 times more IMAGE. :)
I want more image. Now.
i hate it when my image has too much image!
I hate it when my image has too much image!
Thank you for the tip regarding noise coming from pixels on the left of the histogram.
Very good introduction to histograms. Thank you!
Another great tutorial. Thanks!
Hi Tony and Chelsea,
Great channel and by far one of the best among the photographers! Keep up the good work! Said that, do you know if the Nikon D610 has a histogram in live view? I can't really find info about that on the net...
Do you have a video on how you calibrate your monitor or apply color profiles along your picture workflow?
I'm so glad you made this video I've been waiting for you to do this one
Excellent explanation. Thanks so much!
Great Explanation - I didn't know anything about it - Thanks ✌
Hi, Tony . First congratulations for all your hard work is very helpfull. ofcourse I am your follower in all plataform. I am very new on this world of photography. My question: Using a Canon mirrorles M50 in manual mode when I read the histogram some time is overxpose or under. I use the shutter speed or aperture until I see the histogram in my camera display right. Even when is fine on the display I can see on the exposure bar maybe one stop over or under. I took the picture and looks great. My question is when the histogram is fixed it doesnt matter the exposure display bar in my camera. Sorry maybe is a silly question, but you are the master
I never knew how to figure that funny 'graph' chart looked like. Thank you for helping with that!
amazing video. thanks for helping me understand
Outstanding video!
Great video, one question: what does it mean if the histogram has lots of smaller jagged peaks or just fewer big smooth peaks? Thanks
Hi! Your videos are awesome. Thanks so much! In Lightroom when I look at the histogram....if the triangle on the right is white, that means something is blown out. Sometimes when I bring down the highlights a bit, the white triangle disappears and I've gotten rid of the blown out area (?), but then the triangle turns to a color...like red, blue or yellow. What does this mean and is it a good or bad thing?
thanks for clarifying histograms, great intro
This was actually helpful! Thanks guys!!
Very nice. We learned something today. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks a lot +Tony for this video, cleared a lot of doubts!!
excellent information
This great, great advice. You'll never want to edit your photo without Histograms again
Understood thank you, you are great teacher!
Cool video... what does it mean when a luminance histogram is 'flat'; as in little vertical (Y axis) development across the board?
Thanks and I was aware of the histogram but didn't use it much. And yes I have been fooled by looking at the screen on my camera so let's ad this tip to my bag of tricks. On a separate note our big screen TV has UA-cam built in great.... but I do not see a like button or way to add coments so I jump back to the phone... any suggestions.
Thank you for in-depth histogram vid.
Thank You Tony!
As always awesomeness, gracias Tony...
Thanks for explaining it cleary
Tony & Chelsea, really enjoy all your videos there so helpful and interesting! Was just wondering how can I send in a couple of photos for you to review on one of them videos you do photos of 2016? Iv got about 3 photos that I would really love you to have a look at 2 that iv taken on my 1100D and 1 on my new 7D both using the same 50mm F1.8 and edited in Lightroom.. Keep giving us these videos all the best for 2017 from Giles in UK London
top notch help... thanks
got your book too
So it’s like an eq for audio but for an image instead? Low end is on the left, high end is on the right, and you can adjust each “pitch” to add more “black” or “white”. An image needs dynamics, just like an audio track.
Thumbs Up! I want more of this type of content. (Sharpening, Tone Curve, etc)
I don’t know if you’ll answer but I was told to shoot underexposed is better then over since blown out can’t be fixed
I would love to have a live view overlay histogram showing in the viewfinder,
you can if you have a mirrorless camera (which has, of course, an electronic viewfinder )EVF))
I'm going to make myself use the histogram thank you for showing me the importance
Hey, thanks for the good content. Do you happen to have a video about organizing old photos? I inherited a massive dataset of old family photos (digital and scans of old developed photographs) with duplicates and different formats and file sizes. I have a hard time to sort them since I don't know where to start. I really would appreciate if you could recommend some software or make a vid about this. Thx.
Thank you again Tony!
Hello Tony. Great video series. Learning a lot. Question. The company I work for wants me to set up the ability to make videos like yours (talking in front of camera, then switching to what's on the monitor) Not for photography though, for stock market. In any case. How are you set up?
Oh man, it's super complex. It would definitely take me a couple of hours just to diagram it all.
9:00 - Now there's a little gem! Thanks, Tony!
Thanks for the explanation Tony :)
Wow, this was revolutionary. Thank you!
can you get the luminosity histogram as opposed to colour in lightroom?
Hi, Tony. Love your videos and tutorials. I'm looking for a little more hands on training with DSLR photography and Lightroom editing. I'm in Columbia, SC. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you for any guidance you can offer.
Thank you very much! Finally understood fully how histogram works. :)
This was very much needed, thank you! :)
Good info.
Thanks, very informative
I use the histogram all the time if I'm shooting in bright conditions, or else take a test image and dial in any required compensation after checking it. Whichever method I use, the histogram is at the heart of it.....
Very helpful.
Great Video!
I love this, thanks
Thanks, Tony!
He says that color histogram is not very useful. I think it's very useful, because the luminosity histogram is just an overage of the colors and does not tell if some color component is overexposed. It's quite common that especially sunlit faces get overexposed in the red color, sky in blue, and vegetation in green. Overexposed areas are flat and post-processing is impossible.
Another issue is with the recommendation that you should shoot bright, because there's less noise in the upper part. This is true in the sense that while CCD or CMOS cells themselves are mostly linear, the signal-to-noise ratio is better in the bright end. In JPEG images, you also have less noise in the bright end, because they are flattened out in the logarithmic scale. However, logarithmic flattening and packing into 8 bits also loses much of the linear information, which is why it's better to either shoot raw or underexpose. Further, shooting in raw does not always save from the problem, because the CCD and CMOS cells have an internal _antiblooming_ feature, which makes images nonlinear in the brighter end and hence you lose information.
Thank you 😊 ..