Undoing a Slide Hammer Repair - Door Skin Repair GTO RestoMod (Ep 44)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Today we once again are repairing slide hammer holes and a poor repair job from the past. We will be digging deep into the tool box and even inventing some new tools to help us get this door dent out.
If you have a project you would like to showcase at the end of one of my videos just email me a few pics and a short description to: foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com
Excellent Mark! This will give me a plan of attack for one of my doors which has about 8 slide hammer holes near the bottom. I'll send you some pictures soon.
Thanks Doug. I just don't get the body shop aversion to taking the door panel off and pushing a dent out. They would just drill holes and pull with a slide hammer. Luckily for you there is plenty of access.
As always, another well done step on the project. The clutch assembly deserves a gold star.! You also deserve recognition for the consistent quality camera work and editing as well as content. Keeps me coming back every day to see what's next! I'm currently making up 20 gallons of the EDTA solution, which I learned from you, and soaking large parts in a 4' diameter kiddie pool for rust removal.
Thanks Don. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment and your encouragement. The EDTA will burn itself out and slow down the more you use it. I surmise if remove the parts slowly trying to keep the rust from falling into the solution it might make it last longer. I used EDTA 4na but someone suggested EDTA 2na which is worth looking into. Looks like it is less expensive too. Be sure to let me know how your parts come out.
The kiddie pool with the solution worked great right up to the point a sharp edge poked a small hole in the bottom edge😂 Must have happened when turning the center grill section late in the evening because the solution had leaked out overnight... No biggie though because everything else was done. Going try to find the EDTA 2na for one more application for the 37' grill insert.
@@user-it5uo5nx4w That sucks. At least you didn't a few hundred bucks of Evaporust leaking out. The 2na looks to be cheaper and from what I understand the ph is a lot more favorable. Let me know if you go that route and how it works.
Mark
Nice work Mark. That's a lot of real estate to deal with. Curves seem a little easier to work with. In the construction business we say the hardest pattern to make is a random pattern. Maybe in bodywork the hardest curve to deal with is no curve. Thank you for your time.
Actually a Volkswagen beetle is the easiest body work you will ever do. An old Lincoln LTD or Cadillac with those huge flat panels are a nightmare. Curves are subjective, anyone can tell when something isn't straight.
You are right about the real estate, these are long doors that weren't all that straight from the factory.
Nice camera work Mark. To bad about your welder, at least it was something simple.
Thanks, probably the easiest and cheapest repair on the welder.
I feel your pain, Mark. My Buick looked like Bonney and Clyde used it for a getaway car. The last guy used the slide hammer holes for anchor points for the 1/2 inch of bondo on the doors and quarter panels.
Yikes! Back in the day I never used a slide hammer if I could get to the back side. Sometimes we would just put our foot in there and push the dent out. Undoing all those holes and pulled sheet metal eats up a lot of time and patience.
Great videos. I like how you come up with tool to get the job done. I have found the mini basketballs that my kids played with years ago have a second life in my bodywork tool chest.
Thanks Shelly. I looked everywhere in my sons old room but couldn't find anything except some old nerf footballs. He is 24 now so not much left around here of the kid days. As I was doing this I was thinking I need to look into getting a bag they sell for this exact situation.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication that is so funny I think the same way but always resort to my junk pile. First engine swapped I did was a GTO like yours. I will enjoy watching your progress. Ken Using my wife’s account. lol
@@shellyclay6399 Hi Ken, your wife is going to wonder why there is so much car stuff on her feed 😁
Stay tuned (both of you) there is still a ton more to do for sure.
Mark
You might look into Air Wedges next time in place of the inner tube.
Definitely thanks. Had to use what I had on hand this time.
Great advice my friend I be wanting stuff perfect as well but it'd definitely in good hands with you
Thanks Teron, I appreciate that. I always want to do my best then I take a break when I get sick of trying and come back and try some more. It may not be perfect but the more I do in metal work the easier it will be filling and blocking.
Mark
Hi i'm new here but i was working on a 69 convertible and they done the same thing with a slide hammer.I had the hardest time trying to pull the dent out because the metal is completely a monster compared to todays trash metal thanks for teaching me some new methods.
Hi and welcome to the channel. I am glad I was of some help to you. Yes slide hammer damage can be really tough to overcome just by the nature of pulling so hard in one spot plus a hole. Is your car a GTO?
Yeah the one i restored for a friend about 5 years ago was@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Mark, just found your channel and love your videos. Im restoring a 67 post car and would be very interested in you making a video on re installing the rear quarter windows. Its been a few years since i took them out and didnt take any pics of the disassembly. Haven't been able to find any assembly diagrams.
Thanks Randy and welcome to the channel. Please spread the word to your friends.
I did do a power window conversion for the quarter glass and when I took Ruby apart I showed some disassembly. You might want to go back and check those out. In a nutshell the chrome strip has a small "T" plastic guide that slides into the window channel on the post. It drops in just below the bottom of the post and once you get that in the rest is pretty easy. I am waiting on new quarter glass window channel from OPGI but they are on back order so it will be a bit before I do anymore quarter glass videos. Email me if you have specific questions and I will help if I can.
Mark
Great video Mark. Clever use of the tube!
You mentioned lack of access in some vehicles. That’s an issue I’m having with the ‘49 rear doors.
I’ve used welded studs and pullers etc to get the bulk of the dents removed, but I need access to the back side for hammer and dolly.
Now that I’ve got the majority of the stress removed from the outer skin (hopefully) what do you think about cutting a small access hole in the inner skin?? Then repair that hole when the outside skin is done. I don’t mind the time it’ll take, but I also don’t want to cause extra damage. I’d highly value your opinion.
Good to hear you are making progress Robert.
I have done what you are proposing many times. Look at the inside panel carefully and determine where the door gets its strength from. Usually the perimeter where it is stamped over. If I were to do it I would come in 4" from the sides minimum. Be mindful of internal bracing or brackets for hinges and latches though. One thing I can tell you is to not go to small because then you end up cutting more making the inside panel repair much harder. Map out your cuts to make welding it back in easier. The biggest concern will be twisting or potato chipping on you but I highly doubt that will happen. When the time comes to weld it back in use some scrap sheet metal to make tabs you can screw to the inside to lay the panel on during tacking and welding.
Sometimes you have to do more damage to repair damage. You are on the right track.
Great! Thanks so much for that. Really appreciate the insight.
did you send your car off somewhere to get it dipped? if so where
Yes I did. I took it to Oregon. Here is the video I did on it with all the information ua-cam.com/video/5zV9vbgbpOw/v-deo.html
Bo was great and they do awesome work.
Mark