Checking out a 6.4 with check engine for cylinder number 3 misfire, truck shakes and has power reduce on. Going to try the manually crank to hear it’s crank
ooh that's gonna hurt the pocket book..so what would cause a #2 cylinder to be bad, I know that 7 and 8 are caused by fuel injected on exhaust stroke for the DPF, but would a bad #2 be caused by just the crank case filling up with fuel?
Please help it all started a couple weeks ago I had a water pump go bad so I decided to do some other issues that I’ve been putting off. So I did the oil pan gasket the windage tray gasket and the water pump oil filter and fuel filters. I jacked the motor up to the tip of the motor mount studs and that was enough to get the oil pan in and out. After reassembly It started getting a p2291 ICP sensor lfrp and it shut off and so I replaced that as well. Again I started the truck and it idled for a few seconds and shit off again so I bled the system again and there was tons of air over and over and now it won’t even prime the upper filter I can’t figure where it could possibly be sucking that much air I’ve changed the lines from the lpfp to the lines that go to the filter housing up top and got nothing i dont know what to do besides drop the tank and chase the lines all the way up to the motor. When the truck would idle the fuel pressure was 28000 psi on the high side and 4.8-5.2 on the low side and the air got worse each time I primed it please help anything that may give me a idea to work towards I’d really appreciate it
I recently changed damaged rockers and camshaft on my 2008 because of the popping sound now after putting it back together the truck is shaking similar to what is happening in this video. Do you think the engine is bad?
Hi, Have a 2008 ford f250 6.4. Have a problem of running rough at idle. Codes are cylinder 8 contribution, cyl 8 misfire. Changed injector 8. Did not help. What is weird, if I turn truck off and back on. Runs great for a couple of minutes then back to missing. When I clear codes with snap-on scanner. It runs great for a few minutes then back to missing. The contribution test shows, number 8 at -20, number 1 at -19, number 3 at -12, and number 7 at -10. Clear codes and all are within 3 of 0. Installed a new computer. It ran good for one day, now back to the same.
Hey did you ever figure out the issue with your truck. I’ve started experiencing the exact same issues. Was told injector, had injector replaced still had same issue, then I was told poor compression was the cause. Had the engine opened up and found valves were sticking open causing the low compression. Had that fixed and still have the exact same symptoms. But some days she runs great. And the problem is always when idling.
Did you ever figure out the issue? Running into similar problem but with injector #2 , would trun it off and crank it up again and would stop the missing but will come back later only at idling.
I have had the miss fire on cylinder 2 twice but that’s everytime I got fuel at sheetz always have problems with sheetz but I delete it and don’t go to sheetz for fuel doesn’t do it again
Mine has the popping noise 218000 miles a mechanic says when is popping like that I will need new engine soon Is it true ? No loose of power or anything just the popping noise
That indicates an intake or exhaust valve not opening at proper time (sticky valve) most likely the nubs on a rocker valve is worn/broke. Or bent lifter.
I have the same uneven crank with no popping noise I had a cyl contribution fault on #1 no misfire though. I removed the oil fill canister and found a broken rocker picked it up with a magnet. It’s cracked pretty good. What could’ve caused this? I replaced these 4,000 miles ago.
6.0Doctor got 6.4 with kinda same problem only says cylinder 1 miss fire and cylinder contribution/balance fault did manual Regen smoking like crazy code didn't come back since I did this if it does I'm gonna do what you just did hopefully it doesn't the popping if so I'm gonna take off valve cover and take a look to see if I have a fuel problem or if rocker arm is broken or worn out when I worked for Ford they would just price engine see if they got approved for it or denied if so they just put new engine in but definitely going to check for fuel in oil and do crank like you did do you have any suggestions?
I'm thinking of buying a 2009 f350 6.4l with three cylinders with weak compression and injector issues. Do you think this might be something that could possibly need a new engine or might it be fixable?
@@homesteadingsurvival3560 No, I haven't got a chance to have it looked at yet. My truck doesn't shake just has white smoke. I think I've either got a bad injector or possibly a bad mass airflow sensor. I hope it's a bad mass airflow sensor but I'm not that lucky. Lol!! I the test under the hood with the starter wire before I had any work done on my truck and it sounded identical to this video but it wasn't a bad piston. Not sure exactly what it was because I had a lot of stuff fixed and upgraded on the truck. Complete EGR AND DPF delete SCT X4 tuner with custom tunes for my specific truck. No crazy horsepower tunes I leave it on the economy tune, +100 horsepower, and 125 torque, that's what my mechanic recommended and he works on a lot of diesel trucks he has a diesel himself too. I had 8 brand new OEM Ford fuel injectors, all brand new rocker arms because one rocker arm was cracked. I spent almost $8000 on it and it was fine for a little bit but white smoke now. The truck runs excellent just has white smoke. I have zero complaints about my truck except the white smoke. It only smoke at idle at operating temperature. I can sit in the driveway and bring the rpm's up to around 1100 and it stops smoking.
Chestnut Automotive & Towing turn key on and use starter jumper wire to start. Looks like 1 of the egr probes has failed causing it to read 1400+ degrees. So it won’t let you start the truck.
Hi. I had the p0087 code and no one could figure out the low fuel pressure trigger . So a few hundred in sensors and the passenger side valve cover off and the inspection of the high pressure fuel sensor plug and i found a crack in the plug ...it would seep oil into the socket and trip codes similar to what your saying.....i replaced the harnes and it fixed everthing.....hope that may help
I sure hope some poor idiot doesn't buy that truck. The owner is a true scumbag if he's hoping to pull a fast one with that. I can tell just buy little things in the video that the owner abuses and doesn't maintain the truck anywhere close to properly. The 6.4's have their shortcomings but idiots like these make the reputation so much worse.
I have used it in the past. the only problem I'm seeing with it is it scars the spool valves on the injectors. now I use motorcraft 15-40 or amsoil 15w-40..
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From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanx for the information and a great video. You are very good at explaining what to hear and look after, really appreciate this !
How do you get it to crank and not fire when you’re doing the manual crank jump?
I think you have to leave the key out of the ignition.
Checking out a 6.4 with check engine for cylinder number 3 misfire, truck shakes and has power reduce on. Going to try the manually crank to hear it’s crank
Are you sure it isn't a push rod or valve issue
ooh that's gonna hurt the pocket book..so what would cause a #2 cylinder to be bad, I know that 7 and 8 are caused by fuel injected on exhaust stroke for the DPF, but would a bad #2 be caused by just the crank case filling up with fuel?
Please help it all started a couple weeks ago I had a water pump go bad so I decided to do some other issues that I’ve been putting off. So I did the oil pan gasket the windage tray gasket and the water pump oil filter and fuel filters. I jacked the motor up to the tip of the motor mount studs and that was enough to get the oil pan in and out. After reassembly It started getting a p2291 ICP sensor lfrp and it shut off and so I replaced that as well. Again I started the truck and it idled for a few seconds and shit off again so I bled the system again and there was tons of air over and over and now it won’t even prime the upper filter I can’t figure where it could possibly be sucking that much air I’ve changed the lines from the lpfp to the lines that go to the filter housing up top and got nothing i dont know what to do besides drop the tank and chase the lines all the way up to the motor. When the truck would idle the fuel pressure was 28000 psi on the high side and 4.8-5.2 on the low side and the air got worse each time I primed it please help anything that may give me a idea to work towards I’d really appreciate it
Did you check the blow by at the oil fill cap while it’s running just for shits and giggles
Hey quick question what program scan were you using ?
I recently changed damaged rockers and camshaft on my 2008 because of the popping sound now after putting it back together the truck is shaking similar to what is happening in this video. Do you think the engine is bad?
Can a blown head gasket cause misfire
Hi, Have a 2008 ford f250 6.4. Have a problem of running rough at idle. Codes are cylinder 8 contribution, cyl 8 misfire. Changed injector 8. Did not help. What is weird, if I turn truck off and back on. Runs great for a couple of minutes then back to missing. When I clear codes with snap-on scanner. It runs great for a few minutes then back to missing. The contribution test shows, number 8 at -20, number 1 at -19, number 3 at -12, and number 7 at -10. Clear codes and all are within 3 of 0. Installed a new computer. It ran good for one day, now back to the same.
Hey did you ever figure out the issue with your truck. I’ve started experiencing the exact same issues. Was told injector, had injector replaced still had same issue, then I was told poor compression was the cause. Had the engine opened up and found valves were sticking open causing the low compression. Had that fixed and still have the exact same symptoms. But some days she runs great. And the problem is always when idling.
Same
Did you ever figure out the issue?
Running into similar problem but with injector #2 , would trun it off and crank it up again and would stop the missing but will come back later only at idling.
Did you find out what the issue was?
I have a mysterious intermittent misfire too
@@RobertoRodriguez-kr5bf
Did you figure out what the problem was?
I have had the miss fire on cylinder 2 twice but that’s everytime I got fuel at sheetz always have problems with sheetz but I delete it and don’t go to sheetz for fuel doesn’t do it again
MADSKATES sheetz has garbage fuel 👍🏻
Damn... Sheetz is one of my trusted fuel stops... Guess I have to take it off the list
Mine has the popping noise 218000 miles a mechanic says when is popping like that I will need new engine soon Is it true ? No loose of power or anything just the popping noise
That indicates an intake or exhaust valve not opening at proper time (sticky valve) most likely the nubs on a rocker valve is worn/broke. Or bent lifter.
I have the same uneven crank with no popping noise I had a cyl contribution fault on #1 no misfire though. I removed the oil fill canister and found a broken rocker picked it up with a magnet. It’s cracked pretty good. What could’ve caused this? I replaced these 4,000 miles ago.
6.0Doctor got 6.4 with kinda same problem only says cylinder 1 miss fire and cylinder contribution/balance fault did manual Regen smoking like crazy code didn't come back since I did this if it does I'm gonna do what you just did hopefully it doesn't the popping if so I'm gonna take off valve cover and take a look to see if I have a fuel problem or if rocker arm is broken or worn out when I worked for Ford they would just price engine see if they got approved for it or denied if so they just put new engine in but definitely going to check for fuel in oil and do crank like you did do you have any suggestions?
Thanks
I'm thinking of buying a 2009 f350 6.4l with three cylinders with weak compression and injector issues. Do you think this might be something that could possibly need a new engine or might it be fixable?
TraceHighfield rebuildable.
I didn’t see any coolant at all in it. I think! Good video
My truck showed misfire number 6 cylinder. I cleared the code and have started it several times since and no codes are showing. Any ideas.
Friend of mine has a 6.4 he has a number 6 and lots of white smoke and shaking and using oil did you ever find out about yours
@@homesteadingsurvival3560 No, I haven't got a chance to have it looked at yet. My truck doesn't shake just has white smoke. I think I've either got a bad injector or possibly a bad mass airflow sensor. I hope it's a bad mass airflow sensor but I'm not that lucky. Lol!!
I the test under the hood with the starter wire before I had any work done on my truck and it sounded identical to this video but it wasn't a bad piston. Not sure exactly what it was because I had a lot of stuff fixed and upgraded on the truck. Complete EGR AND DPF delete SCT X4 tuner with custom tunes for my specific truck. No crazy horsepower tunes I leave it on the economy tune, +100 horsepower, and 125 torque, that's what my mechanic recommended and he works on a lot of diesel trucks he has a diesel himself too. I had 8 brand new OEM Ford fuel injectors, all brand new rocker arms because one rocker arm was cracked. I spent almost $8000 on it and it was fine for a little bit but white smoke now. The truck runs excellent just has white smoke. I have zero complaints about my truck except the white smoke. It only smoke at idle at operating temperature. I can sit in the driveway and bring the rpm's up to around 1100 and it stops smoking.
@@jaredshoemaker9196 my truck got white smoke to do y’all know what the problem?
what diagnostic tool are you using (the computer program)?
Boise Auto Arena ford ids
i have 6.4 its NOT STARTING and it have engine code P0305,P078,P242B,P0275,P062,P0087 AND P0703. What is you recommendation.
Chestnut Automotive & Towing turn key on and use starter jumper wire to start. Looks like 1 of the egr probes has failed causing it to read 1400+ degrees. So it won’t let you start the truck.
Hi.
I had the p0087 code and no one could figure out the low fuel pressure trigger .
So a few hundred in sensors and the passenger side valve cover off and the inspection of the high pressure fuel sensor plug and i found a crack in the plug ...it would seep oil into the socket and trip codes similar to what your saying.....i replaced the harnes and it fixed everthing.....hope that may help
thanks for the reply. keep up the great work.
Are you going to rebuild it or just get a reman from ford.
Chris G customer took the truck. Doesn't want to spend the money. Just wants to sell it. I would have rebuilt it.
I sure hope some poor idiot doesn't buy that truck. The owner is a true scumbag if he's hoping to pull a fast one with that. I can tell just buy little things in the video that the owner abuses and doesn't maintain the truck anywhere close to properly. The 6.4's have their shortcomings but idiots like these make the reputation so much worse.
Do you work on 7.3 powerstroke?
Cruz Mascorro I work on all powerstrokes
A 6.4 with a skip? No way! Lol.
any problems using shella rotella 5w 40 syn oil in a 6.0?
I have used it in the past. the only problem I'm seeing with it is it scars the spool valves on the injectors. now I use motorcraft 15-40 or amsoil 15w-40..
If you need a new motor in that mine as well just scrap it
Lmfao