Want me to review that cable cooker or your favorite rice cooker? Click on the like button! What is the best tweak you have ever tried? JCAT Initio3 non-affiliated link: jcat.eu/product/initio-3/ Non-affiliated link for Canadian dealer: www.prestoaudioservice.com/shop?Collection=JCAT None affiliated link for super spikes: www.everestaudio.com/soundcare-superspikes-standard-set-of-4-spikes.html
Hi Thomas: 1. Yes. Please review the cable cooker. But please be sure to try it on modest priced cables in addition to expensive cables. 2. If you want to review a rice cooker that is fine too. Maybe one that can be controlled with Bluetooth and can unfold MQA. 3. My tweaks? I have more than a few. One is the Mike Powell silver upgrade kit on my Magnepans. Another is the MyeStands from Grant vanderMye in Canada. Those are special stands for Magnepans. Hockey pucks under the feet of my subwoofers to decouple them from my hardwood floors and keep them from knocking down my house.
The most significant tweak for me was running a dedicated line from the fuse box using 10/2 cable, along with hospital grade outlets. Added upgraded power cords during the process too.
Let's see. A 120V, 15A outlet produces 1800 watts but it's not enough you need 30A for 3600 watts? Are you kidding? I want to see the science behind that decision.
@@mosfet500 its not about the current draw its about the current flow. Current with flow easier through the larger wire. Remember path of least resistance? The easier current can flow the quicker it can react to transients.
@@pauls2099 That's not how it works! E=IR. Sure large wires enable higher currents but the thing that determines how much current a load uses is it's resistance, if a device loads a source with a specific resistance you don't get anything faster if you use a bigger wire! The speed of electricity is the speed light, you think you can hear that? You can't hear anything that happens before the filter caps. If the mains produces enough power to run your component (look at the back and it will tell you the power it draws) then its job is done. You can't hear DC. Period! That means you can't hear the difference between a tube rectifier and a solid state rectifier, you can't heart a toroid transformer from a split bobbin transformer and you can't hear one capacitor from another one if they both have the same rating. The thing that compensates for transients is the filter capacitor, not the mains. If you put a scope on the DC out and the DC doesn't vary when the amp draws maximum power then that's the best you can get, your transients are taken care of, the line current only has one function, it replenishes the caps. Well designed amps have something called headroom, that's how much power above what your system requires to keep it from ever being in a state of dipping below the amps maximum requirements, if it does dip down then it is the specific amp that is under designed. Line conditioners are audio voodoo. With all that said, your home system will never tax the mains to the point it can't replenish the filter caps - never! Sorry guys, this is just science and what is and isn't possible. Save your money, buy better speakers.
@@mosfet500 you missed the point. But we will agree to disagree. I didn't say that it makes electricity flow faster. I said it allows the current flow to handle transient more efficiently. This will allo the power supply to recover faster from the current draw of the bass signals which will translate to a smoother top end. Wire conducts electricity as electrons make their way through the metal material that makes up the wire. The electrons are not efficient racers through the wire, but bounce around as they make their way to your outlets . Individual electrons only move around 1.2 inches per minute in a standard 10 amp, 12-gauge copper wire. Electrons take longer to move through smaller wire than through larger diameter wire. Think of the larger wiring as a superhighway and the smaller wiring as a two-lane road. The larger diameter of the bigger wire offers more area for electrons to move through the circuit.
@@pauls2099 No, that's still wrong. Once you supply enough current from the mains, which in a standard breaker is 15 or 20 amps then it can't do anything more. Period! At 20 amps and 120 volts that's 2,400 watts. You can weld with that! If you have an amplifier that puts out 400 watts and is 50% efficient then it draws 800 watts max, you still have another 1600 watts of power left from the mains but even class AB amps are 65 to 75% efficient, you will never need more power than the mains puts into your home amp - never! Thinner wire allows fewer electrons to move through it which lowers the current rating of the wire, it has nothing to do with speed! Any speed differences are minute, the circuit takes its power from the transformer and capacitor bank, they determine the transient handling ability of the amplifier along with the circuits power capability, not the mains. This is basic electronics 101. E=IR, P=EI, it has nothing to do with agreeing to disagree, you're flat out scientifically wrong.
Thomas, you really do have the best audio channel! I have learned so much from your videos, and my listening experience is becoming better as a result. This particular video is truly fascinating!
I put Dynamat dampening sheets on the bare surfaces inside my CD player/DAC. Huge improvement to the sound, particularly bass extension and volume, but all across the mids and highs.
The biggest improvement for me was adding a ball bearing isolation system under my components. You can buy these but i made my own using ceramic ball bearings which work well for image focus
I have often wandered which concept I prefer, ball bearings (Which I am shore works verry well ) verses the exact opposite approach such as a gel where the idear is to essentially to join your speakers to what their standing on in such a way that eliminates higher frequencies (Or added rattle) but at the same time allows your desk or flore (Depending) to act as an extension to to predominantly sub auditable frequencies , or quite literally how the music feels in your room? I think that possibly the decision depends on your speakers your taste and whether you are lucky enough have a solid concrete flore, no moving flore boars or exercising neighbours rattling your room.
I can confirm what you said also, I have an Arcam irDac and changed it’s power supply with an sbooster liner power supply and my Dac was transformed. My irDac won a What HiFi product of the year award’s several year back and I was considering getting something newer but after adding this external power supply I’m very happy with my digital sound know and will hold off upgrading my Dac. Peace
Best tweaks for me an iFi iPurifier usb ii between my iMac and audiophellio2 fed by an older linear power supply, so yes tweak added, which feeds a Metrum octave dac! Transformed the sound- clarified-less grunge, expanded the frequency range especially low frequency, more detail-less grunge, Another tweak was isolate it .5 inch sorbathane discs selected for proper weight range, under my mmf 5 turntable feet, much more focused images in the soundstage-surprising improvement.
The things that I tried and noticed quite a bit of differences are: -- Vibrapod & Cones -- Mutec MC3+ USB with After Dark Emperor Signature ext clock -- Anti Vibration Magic (blue goo) I have to say that the most surprising tweaks is the mutec with external clock. The level of improvement is quite substantial. Can't imagine living without it.
Swapped out the $2 cable that came with my amp and used a $80 diy power cable, and the sound got way better! No more harshness, and better intregration of the music! Never expected that from a $80 cable!
Thanks for the video. The best tweak I have is Stabilant 22A, a product designed for NASA that improves electrical connections at the molcular level. I use it when installing interconnects.
THOMAS AND ALL: I just bought a T+A Power Amplifier (German Brand) and WOW what a terrific amplifier! I also changed the powercord and AGAIN a difference for the better (DH Labs). Thank You for the suggestions!
USB cable from my MAC (streamer) to my amp!! I was on the side of the snake oil on cables but after upgrading the usb cable to a "BetterCables Blue Truth HiFi Audiophile USB Cable" I'm on the side of cables matter, shocking improvement!
Sbooster BOTW p&p eco mk II 5v LPS with Bluesound node 2i (after PD Creative modification) and Isoacoustics Gaia III with Focal Chora 826. Both great tweaks!
Linear power supplies are no tweaks Thomas it's mandatory on DACs, streamers, turntables and phono preamp. I believe I already told you before about the jcat optimo 3. I built mines using the same layout and parts. I use them on every dac that i tried and every streamer. On DACs : i can say even on a 1000$ or 5000$ dac it's worth it to me. Because it brings something the dac itself can't do. And it is repeatable the higher you go in prices. The effect stays the same. The thing it allows to happen for a 1000$ dac is the same it allows for a 5000 or more Dac. The difference is maybe the 5000 had more to show in the first place so more is amplified. You already told the differences. + Tones. On streamers like raspberry pie, ifi streamer, moon audio,... It brings more black background. Naturality, kills sibilance and harshness. Makes the soundstage deeper meaning improve the feeling of something going from the front/speakers to you. Improves tones. When i experienced it last year. I decided to try many linear power supplies : all the ifi ones, audiophonics, the ones the British audiophile talked about and Hans bekenheizer,.. i sort of arrived in a consensus that under 250 most are hit or miss. It still works but the effect is hardly perceptible. At 500 or more it starts to become interesting because they are often oversized and it counts a lot. I understood by trial and error that the more current available the better. If you need 1Amp buy a 3A at least. But it must come from the power supply not a transistor. You need a big toroidal transformer and big capacitors. No clever design to amplified the current with transistors. (The sin of affordable linear power supplies). If you stream my friend. Put even audiophonics lpsus on your internet box and all your switches. Put a nice one on the last Switch + a nice RJ45 cable. You won't believe your ears. Digital becomes analog.
hmmmm great ideas. I have an sbooster on my rPi4 with pi2AES, but I heard separating the power supply between rpi and the hat makes a difference. I'll keep the pricier sbooster on the hat and put a shanti on the basic rpi board for my next 'tweak'
No. You first start off calling your power company to get a dedicated circuit. Then get a LPS if you want it easy. But if you want pure clean power with the proper overhead, building a battery bank with the respective amps / voltage matched with large capacitors.
@@epi2045 Good luck with that when living in an appartment in a big city. Plus what i said is the best start, closer to the gear. and you can work your way down to the circuit breaker later and maybe further if you are allowed.
I like spring style feet under speakers. Take out a few springs. I never feel my stands vibrate. Fuses, silver cables and a Tripp Lite Isobar plug in. The Tripp Lite does a very good job in fighting thousands of miles of dirty signal.
Enjoyed this video - my favourite tweak so far is changing amps! :) agree that most tweaks are so subtle that they can’t solve major component or room problems - bigger challenges take bigger steps.
I’m more of the mindset like Mr. Vintage | Mr. Kanto, as everything in our system makes a difference…….., I’m an avid proponent of isolation footers ( namely Shun Mook | Yamamoto Sound Craft | IsoAcoustics Orea | Gaia ) as well as changing connectors on the rear of gear and speakers ( RCA | Binding Post ) as well as understanding the difference of the purity of copper used with Banana | BFA Plugs, and once again each make for remarkable improvement in cleaner | clearer sound.
One of the best isolation items i used were the Yamamoto magnetic suspensions under my amplifier and CDP..........opened up the space beyond the walls ........
I use an Anker Powerbank which is effectively a battery with 2 USB connectors. It is rated at 18W maximum output. So it can output either 12V at 1.5A or 5V at 3A. It was on sale when I bought it and cost £20. In use it lasts a surprisingly long time before you need to recharge it. The only downside is that it does take many hours to recharge fully.
Linear PS is a must for me, both Dac and streamer. I am now using the LT 3045 chip for my linear PS. No turning back so far. To be honest, I am quite surprised you only realised now the importance of linear PS as a highly experienced audiophile. But good review this time! 👍
best tweak, as some may consider that as a tweek and it does not cost much. It costs space. Move speakers away from walls, away from corner and spend time to properly position speakers, and listening position.
I installed a power supply in my Node 2i which I also used as a DAC. Huge difference. Now i have an external Border Patrol DAC. Wonder if it matters on the streamer now….
As you consider digital room correction also a tweak, this worked for me the most to get rid of two nasty room modes. Using the room optimization Linn offers in their Selekt DSM.
Some recent tweaks that made a difference. Changing to a customer return Pangea 7 gauge power cord directly plugged into the wall for my Denon pma a100 amp, I’ll switch back to the Doge 10 now that the weather has cooled off and plugging everything else into a $32 Furman power conditioner. Lowered the noise floor and got rid of the light turntable hum that I had. Sounds more relaxed and powerful without a doubt. I’ve done some other things like a funk firm tt mat, locking Canare interconnects from best cable company and bi wire locking blue Jean canare speaker cables(I like tight connections) and IKEA cutting boards under my towers all relatively inexpensive. The power cord and conditioner had the most effect I’d say. I just enjoy the music and sound without picking it apart for sure.
🤗👂WATCHING AGAIN… I DEFINITELY HEAR IMPROVEMENTS EVEN WITH THE R800i 👍 I STARTED OUT YEARS AGO WITH THE PANAMAX M5500-EX …before I had experience …# 1 TO PROTECT MY FUTURE PURCHASES AND # 2 CLEAN UP ANY POSSIBLE PROBLEMS ….and I also ran a dedicated line to my system 😁 Lastly I added the PS AUDIO PERFECT WAVE AC-3 power cable And RIGHT AWAY HEARD AN IMPROVEMENT …and AS IT BURNED IN IT GOT EVEN BETTER 😁 ANY WAY THAT IS MY STORY…. AND I’M STICKING TO IT 🤗😍😍😍
I've always been a skeptic on stuff like this, but a linear power supply can and does improve sound. I added a Teddy Pardo to my Chord Qutest DAC and it improved it no-end.
I had a WTF moment when I connected a 12 V ZeroZone LMPS to my exaSound e62 DAC. I heard it immediately. I paid 150 used, retail $300. It also has a 5V output for another clock/hub in my system. I had to buy a DC plug adapter to make the cable for. My bud just sold his Paul Hynes LMPS; I just didn’t want to drop 1k on it. Great video Tomas.
From your tweaks i am also using IKEA boards, Soundcare spikes and an external linear supply for my Lumin Mini. I am also using grounding boxes to amp, streamer and speakers.
It all starts with clean power supplies…. Surprised you have only just discovered the benefits. In my experience, good quality linear supplies can completely change/improve tonal balance, detail, and decay.
It's called DC, direct current. You can not hear DC. Once an amps supply furnishes a constant highly filtered DC to the rest of the amp there's nothing else you can do or hear, the rest is smoke, mirrors and cognitive dissonance. The end!
@@ThomasAndStereo Thanks for quick reply Thomas. Yes it was interesting to read on their website how Marc and the Doge team had taken your feedback and made further enhancements to the Mk3. My gut feel is Doge 10; a team that license to their customers/reviews and makes improvements so fast, says allot to me. I have 91db sensitive speakers today and soon I will be purchasing a pair of Klipch Forty IV. My music taste is EDM and vocals mainly, so I think a combined class A /AB with above speakers would give me a wider coverage. It was only the 300b 805's that allot say are the gold standard, that made me really consider r800i. Based on all the above, is there anything else I should consider when choosing between the Doge10 and r800i??? My thanks and kind regards.
Hi Thomas , Having messed around with do it yourself audio projects I have found using large power supply that was much bigger than needed always sounds so much better, so a phono preamp that needed less than one amp of current sounded so much better with 3 amps. Whenever you feed each channel with its own power supply we just stop the game, sort of like mono blocks
With amps the circuit will only draw what it needs. So with your 3 amps supply it may only be drawing 2 of the 3 amps. Maybe that pre amp needs 4 or 5, if it's sucking all 3 up then it needs a bigger power supply.
Please do a video of the MiniDSP 2x4; there are quite a few in UA-cam but I have not found one that talks in detail of how to install it and run the room correction in a stereo system; looks like all videos talk about home theaters and subwoofers which are a different world.
I have a lot of tweeks in my system, mainly for fun. The one that made the biggest difference are my sub platforms. Being on the second floor it made a big difference. If you are on concrete I dont think you would get the same effect.
Hi Thomas As you probably know Sean from zero fidelity has been struggling with Covid, so I would like to wish him, you and all of your followers a healthy and happy holiday season Take Care Bill
Listened to the demo on my most revealing system - custom built tube preamp, dynaudio evoke 50's, Passlabs X150.8 - yes, distinct difference, the linear powersupply version was richer, fuller and had more heft - also, not shrill. Sounded outright fantastic - first time you demoe'd that DAC where I thought it actually sounded better than just 'ok'! I'm surprised you're still sticking with that Exasound DAC - must have been a present from the wife? :)
@@ThomasAndStereo Yes, I figured there was something you like about it which didn't come though so far when you demoed it. The linear power supply did make a big difference though, sounds good even on the recording - what was immediately apparent is that the singer's voice actually had some depth - not just the kinda shrill 'clustering' in the upper frequency range that often appears with that recording. BTW - I've been experimenting with USB cables lately, and am somewhat dismayed to find out that they can also make a dramatic difference, even though I really don't see how. So far,according to my testing, USB cables with solid core signal cables sound distinctly better than those with stranded signal cables, even though I'm sure that they would measure exactly the same, and that any differences should be inaudible. Well, the differences are NOT inaudible, but very apparent, even though I really can't explain why.
@@ThomasAndStereo When it comes to cables, speaker or USB cables- stranded vs solid wires seems to be the common denominator... There's something going on with the electrical impulses doing phase shifts as they're strand hopping on stranded cables... problem is, nobody is measuring that factor, therefore lots of people claim that 'the $2.00 USB cable measures the same as a more expensive cable, ergo they sound the same' - I was in that camp until not too long ago:) Fascinating, if one imagines an electrical signal traveling through a stranded cable, one would probably see it changing paths many times per second, traveling along the path of least resistance - it would look a bit like lightning coming down in different shapes over a specific area. A single stranded/solid core cable would not exhibit this behavior, and just travel along the same path, every time.
I am not surprised about the results. I used a better power supply for my Ifi bluetooth streaming/dac and I could hear the difference, same thing goes for vibration. I was skeptical whit that, but once I used the isoacoustics zazen on my turntable it was night and day.
I have to agree about clean power. I have a system powered by a pure sine wave inverter that gets its energy from solar powered batteries. The HK amp produces deep base, and super wide sound stage but is not as defined as my home powered Yamaha AS 2100 with the same speaker.
Best tweak for me has been Isoacoustics isolating pucks. The biggest difference was putting them as new feet on my Tekton DI's. Tighter base & better clarity overall. I ending up putting them under my DAC, preamp, mac mini & amp. It seemed to help those also.
Quite a few years ago I bought the Musical Fidelity Vdac II after reading Sam Telligs review in Stereophile, I always liked his down to earth style when it came to equipment reviews. He mentioned he tried a linear power supply as well as the included $2 cheap switching unit that came with the dac. I worked in the power supply industry for most of my life so i know how important a power supply can be so I bought a $20 12v linear regulated power supply on amazon and found it sounded a lot better than the included cheap switchmode wall wart. I did not try the $100 unit Sam recommended but I can tell you the $20 unit I used made a big difference in that $180 dac
Thomas to your points.I recently replaced my c.early 1950s electrical service with a new state of the art 200 amp set up from the pole.I noticed a big improvement in the sound of my PL power amp.Next up a dedicated line from the breaker box to the sound system per your comments.I am adding a Pontus dac which seems to have a clean ,robust internal power supply;as does the PL.I think the external power supply may be more relevant in homes with "noisier" electrical 120 v supplies or interior wiring.HBU? dedicated
Cooking cables, power supplies, expensive snake oils. Playing music via compressed youtube and all I hear is my tv speakers and my tvs electronics. All internal powr supplies will have filters built in, and also changing the current before the electricity reaches the audio components. That music you play at the end of the video sounds like my tv everytime.
I second that. A year back I had them on test from the dealer for two weeks for trying with my Focus 340's. Replacing soundcares. In reality, I emailed my dealer already in the afternoon whether I could keep the demonstration units - they were new anyway. Try Chris Jones' Moonstruck album without, then with. Or the Hell Freezes Over intro of Hotel California. A real wtf. Thomas you must try this...
Hi Thomas. An interesting discussion - as always. May I recommend that you next try with one of IsoTek power cleaning items. I have noticed clear improvement in my system - similar to your description with your ExaSound DAC. I am using an Auralic/Chord (Mscaler+Hugo TT) front end. Greetings to you and yours.
Hello from Montreal, great video on tweaks or would you say upgrades to power supplies. Would you say that any hifi component should have or include lps. My system has slowly being upgraded but unfortunately I rent and unable to install a dedicated line also my room is not ideal for hifi. Upgrading my Dac from my built in one on my Mcintosh C2600 preamp to a Denafrips Venus II was a big leap in sound quality. My digital source is in great shape now with my Innuos streamer and the Phoenix reclocker into the Venus Dac, very happy!
Hi Thomas, thanks for the red heart....have you ever tried any Exposure amplification? It's a british company and it's available in Montreal (Art et Son).
Great chat as usual. I personally wouldn't define a linear PSU as a tweak. Ask Naim. A power supply is an essential part of a component, not a optional addition, so you are upgrading that part. Best connectors for PSU are G16 aviation connectors imo. Sorbothane under transport worked for me!
Low ripple voltage is only part of the equation. How fast the caps can deliver the current is the other part. If the linear power supply has slow caps, the result will be compressed and lack bass.
The biggest issue is the Radio Frequency that comes from AC power lines. Not all equipment is able to eliminate the noise completely, the low end buzz around the 50 or 60 hertz range. I’m interested in a power conditioner that does what it is supposed to do at a reasonable price.
Nice information but will this Linear Power supply support my Denafrips DACS? Is this only applicable for DACS with 5V power supplies? Anyways the best tweak that worked for my system is my speaker decouplers, thanks for sharing happy listening 👍
Heard changing the internal powersupply of a bluenode 2 is good, haven't tried it yet. Anyone had experience? Agreeing with Thomas here, powersupplies is a specialised skill and often overlooked or a moneysaver
I've a Node 2i, modded with PD-Creative 5v Interface connected to an Allo Shanti LPSU. The differences were huge across the board, Component level change IMO.
There does seem to be just a bit more air. Probably less noticeable thru 'tube. My dac has a buffer switch, that when on, resamples the music (gazillions of times) for a second. I always use it when listening to music, and off when watching vids, because you get a one-second sound lag. It takes the sound to another level, and after hearing it, I wouldn't want to do without it…
As soon as you told us you buy stuff and don't get around to actually using it, I knew I had to comment. Let me say, I'm glad I'm not alone. I buy stuff faster than I can implement anything. The tweaks. The recommendations. And on and on. Yes please rev the cable cooker. I sounds like the next nutty thing I have to get. Maybe a chair with as Yosemite Sam would say, with biscuit burners. Seriously though, this hobby is like automotive trick of the week. I'm trying to keep my system simple and well..cheap. It's not working. Your not helping. The first part of recovery is admitting I'm hooked. I don't want to be cured, I want the cable cooker.
The audio journey is endless and there are tons of this not too expensive tweeks to play with. I am intrigue with the cable cooker as a UK cable professional told me that alot of people fail to experience the full potential of their cables (investments). Bring it on Thomas LOL not sure i should place it in my kitchen though.
Yes you should and while you are at it, have you not noticed how the morning toast tastes crispier when you cook the power cable of the toaster the night before.
Regarding the cable cooker I'd love to see it tested. I have an unproven pet theory along the lines and that is: If I use far better equipment to burn in my cables will I benefit from it in my more modest system, will I hear an improvement compared to "home" burnt cables. Anyone up to test it....?
The "tweak" that made the biggest difference to my system was .. by far .. adding an XLR to RCA converter between my DAC's balanced output to my amps single-ended input. Now ... for this to have maximum impact .. you can't go cheap. The quality of the transformer is critical. I bought the Decware ZBIT with a Jensen transformer. It was the best $800 I ever spent. Audio quality improved significantly. Soundstage, spatial quality, much tighter bass, etc. If you have a DAC with balanced output and an amp with single-input ... this converter is the best $$ you will every spend.
Liniear PSU. Most people i know use a IFI power adapter and the all claim it improves the sound of there dac's. Step up you can go for a Sbooter. The price here is already 6x as much as the IFI. But the improvement a bit better then the IFI. I use IFI and Sboosters in my system to give peace of mind... "what if am missing out on better music." Most say my music experience is better with them. For me its a bit part of the hobby testing little tweaks.
Not sure If this is aloud. But if you want to check cheap linear power supply's I do NOT recomand Teradak(chi-fi) They break easely and you have zero after-sales/warranty. Am waiting over 9 months now a a spare part. Just friendly warning for people that wat try cheap options.
I did and I already made a video on it and it sure makes a difference. However my new pc is a mini pc so it cannot take any cards. ua-cam.com/video/Hn7QZg0resA/v-deo.html
Be sure to check out Teddy Pardo products. Sadly no longer making DACs or amplifiers, now just PSU's containing his special regulators nobody else can use commercially. Been around a long time. Hagerman Audio Labs also sells his own cable cookers at a decent price. Not tried them (yet ) Thanks for the video.
Great video! Many hot topics. I'd hate to try that Rice Burner on that Tellurium Q cable and regret it. Very interesting to find out how long the effects of burning in a cable lasts. Like you, I store cables for a while when I change things up and switch. Lol I don't have time either. That's one of the reasons I haven't gone into vinyl. Too much time cleaning records and then adjusting the turn table and etc. ✌️
BTW I to have a miniDSP 2x4HD new in the box. And an etherregen switch. And an Afterdark OCX clock. And a plex (small green computer) linear power with four power out. And a PS power regenerator. And.... understand.
Hi Thomas I have an unrelated question to the topic you’re talking about on this video so my question is I want to buy a pair of focal kanta , I know you like your focal speakers. So I was wondering if you could recommend an amplifier for the Kanta. I have listened to them with a naim sounded good but what are my other options. All the best Clint. 🇬🇧
The good part with Kanta is you can drive it pretty much with any power amp. Not power hungry at all. I don't have a specific recommendation because it depends on the sound you like but you don't have to worry you need 200w to drive it, good 50w to 100w can do wonders with it.
@@ThomasAndStereo Thanks Thomas, I fell in love with the look of the kanta , and they did sound great with the naim amp i’ll go back to my dealer and listen to similar price amps. It’s difficult £10,000 for speakers and amp need to make sure I’m making the right choice that’s why I’m seeking some advice from you I know you love your focals. The naim amp did sound good , but I’m not totally convinced , anyway any advice from you is always welcome thank you Thomas. 👍
Power supply is the most important link in audio . If you use tube amps , you should try Border Patrol tube power supply's . You need little modification and you get the most amazing results with tube amps , tube dacs and tube preamps .
Looking forward to your review on the Willsenton R800i tube integrated amp. Also noticed the CSS speaker you are using, care to elaborate how you find that tweeter on the speaker comparing to those natural sounding speakers you have heard so far. I am actually considering getting that tweeter for a DIY build.
I'd really like to see a review on that cable cooker - - without going into detail, I've got a high end cooker myself - had it for over a year, it's still in the box - - but - - all of the cables I'm running with the exception of my power cables, which are a different brand, have been "cooked" at the dealer - the cooker that all of the dealers have of this particular brand has been upgraded in recent times and goes for about 6K - the one I have that's still in the box costs a bit over 2K and is supposed to be a high power model - one thing I'd be particularly interested in is whether or not there's changes in power cables after cooking - I've been told that cooking them is as important as all the other cables - I'm on the fence with this stuff so I'd really welcome a review of your Siltech. Thanks Thomas.
@@ThomasAndStereo Ohhh - I'm sorry Thomas, I thought the Siltech box that I saw in your vid was one of those cable "massaging/break in" devices. My mistake.
@@ThomasAndStereo Oh, gotcha Thomas - - thanks for bringing me up to speed and letting me know - - still love to have a review from you if you can ever fit it in - - the thing is, I can't tell you if the stuff the dealer did to my other cables did anything or not, they were on this machine for 7 days straight, some guys do it for 14 days and swear by it - I didn't hear them prior so I don't "really" know - so yes, I would be interested in what your thoughts are with the Siltech if you ever get a chance to mess with it - thank you again and regardless, I'm sorry I didn't do a bit of homework before I commented before.
Thomas, how about using a long lasting rechargeable battery (plus a spare one) instead of a $1000 supply to power your exaSound? Would love to hear your comments if you test that idea.
Hey Thomas, I'd be interested to see if after cooking the cables and (maybe) changing the sound, if it goes back to it's original sound after that. I'd also request starting with an already normally "burned in" pair of cables.
Want me to review that cable cooker or your favorite rice cooker? Click on the like button! What is the best tweak you have ever tried?
JCAT Initio3 non-affiliated link: jcat.eu/product/initio-3/
Non-affiliated link for Canadian dealer: www.prestoaudioservice.com/shop?Collection=JCAT
None affiliated link for super spikes: www.everestaudio.com/soundcare-superspikes-standard-set-of-4-spikes.html
The best "Tweak" I tried was watching your videos Thomas :)
Haha, Thujan I like your videos a lot, don't tell Jay but I think I prefer yours😁😁😁😁
@@ThomasAndStereo I heard you loud and clear Thomas :))))))))))
Hagerman FryCorder 2 is absolutely amazing. Huge $$ for gains ratio.
Hi Thomas:
1. Yes. Please review the cable cooker. But please be sure to try it on modest priced cables in addition to expensive cables.
2. If you want to review a rice cooker that is fine too. Maybe one that can be controlled with Bluetooth and can unfold MQA.
3. My tweaks? I have more than a few. One is the Mike Powell silver upgrade kit on my Magnepans. Another is the MyeStands from Grant vanderMye in Canada. Those are special stands for Magnepans. Hockey pucks under the feet of my subwoofers to decouple them from my hardwood floors and keep them from knocking down my house.
Please review the MiniDSP with DIRAC Live. Thank you, Thomas!
The most significant tweak for me was running a dedicated line from the fuse box using 10/2 cable, along with hospital grade outlets. Added upgraded power cords during the process too.
Let's see. A 120V, 15A outlet produces 1800 watts but it's not enough you need 30A for 3600 watts? Are you kidding? I want to see the science behind that decision.
@@mosfet500 its not about the current draw its about the current flow. Current with flow easier through the larger wire. Remember path of least resistance? The easier current can flow the quicker it can react to transients.
@@pauls2099 That's not how it works! E=IR. Sure large wires enable higher currents but the thing that determines how much current a load uses is it's resistance, if a device loads a source with a specific resistance you don't get anything faster if you use a bigger wire! The speed of electricity is the speed light, you think you can hear that?
You can't hear anything that happens before the filter caps. If the mains produces enough power to run your component (look at the back and it will tell you the power it draws) then its job is done. You can't hear DC. Period! That means you can't hear the difference between a tube rectifier and a solid state rectifier, you can't heart a toroid transformer from a split bobbin transformer and you can't hear one capacitor from another one if they both have the same rating.
The thing that compensates for transients is the filter capacitor, not the mains. If you put a scope on the DC out and the DC doesn't vary when the amp draws maximum power then that's the best you can get, your transients are taken care of, the line current only has one function, it replenishes the caps.
Well designed amps have something called headroom, that's how much power above what your system requires to keep it from ever being in a state of dipping below the amps maximum requirements, if it does dip down then it is the specific amp that is under designed. Line conditioners are audio voodoo.
With all that said, your home system will never tax the mains to the point it can't replenish the filter caps - never!
Sorry guys, this is just science and what is and isn't possible. Save your money, buy better speakers.
@@mosfet500 you missed the point. But we will agree to disagree. I didn't say that it makes electricity flow faster. I said it allows the current flow to handle transient more efficiently. This will allo the power supply to recover faster from the current draw of the bass signals which will translate to a smoother top end.
Wire conducts electricity as electrons make their way through the metal material that makes up the wire. The electrons are not efficient racers through the wire, but bounce around as they make their way to your outlets . Individual electrons only move around 1.2 inches per minute in a standard 10 amp, 12-gauge copper wire.
Electrons take longer to move through smaller wire than through larger diameter wire. Think of the larger wiring as a superhighway and the smaller wiring as a two-lane road. The larger diameter of the bigger wire offers more area for electrons to move through the circuit.
@@pauls2099 No, that's still wrong. Once you supply enough current from the mains, which in a standard breaker is 15 or 20 amps then it can't do anything more. Period! At 20 amps and 120 volts that's 2,400 watts. You can weld with that! If you have an amplifier that puts out 400 watts and is 50% efficient then it draws 800 watts max, you still have another 1600 watts of power left from the mains but even class AB amps are 65 to 75% efficient, you will never need more power than the mains puts into your home amp - never!
Thinner wire allows fewer electrons to move through it which lowers the current rating of the wire, it has nothing to do with speed! Any speed differences are minute, the circuit takes its power from the transformer and capacitor bank, they determine the transient handling ability of the amplifier along with the circuits power capability, not the mains.
This is basic electronics 101. E=IR, P=EI, it has nothing to do with agreeing to disagree, you're flat out scientifically wrong.
Thomas, you really do have the best audio channel!
I have learned so much from your videos, and my listening experience is becoming better as a result.
This particular video is truly fascinating!
Wow, thanks!
I put Dynamat dampening sheets on the bare surfaces inside my CD player/DAC. Huge improvement to the sound, particularly bass extension and volume, but all across the mids and highs.
The biggest improvement for me was adding a ball bearing isolation system under my components. You can buy these but i made my own using ceramic ball bearings which work well for image focus
I have often wandered which concept I prefer, ball bearings (Which I am shore works verry well ) verses the exact opposite approach such as a gel where the idear is to essentially to join your speakers to what their standing on in such a way that eliminates higher frequencies (Or added rattle) but at the same time allows your desk or flore (Depending) to act as an extension to to predominantly sub auditable frequencies , or quite literally how the music feels in your room?
I think that possibly the decision depends on your speakers your taste and whether you are lucky enough have a solid concrete flore, no moving flore boars or exercising neighbours rattling your room.
I can confirm what you said also, I have an Arcam irDac and changed it’s power supply with an sbooster liner power supply and my Dac was transformed. My irDac won a What HiFi product of the year award’s several year back and I was considering getting something newer but after adding this external power supply I’m very happy with my digital sound know and will hold off upgrading my Dac. Peace
Best tweaks for me an iFi iPurifier usb ii between my iMac and audiophellio2 fed by an older linear power supply, so yes tweak added, which feeds a Metrum octave dac! Transformed the sound- clarified-less grunge, expanded the frequency range especially low frequency, more detail-less grunge,
Another tweak was isolate it .5 inch sorbathane discs selected for proper weight range, under my mmf 5 turntable feet, much more focused images in the soundstage-surprising improvement.
I had on demo 4 Les Davis Entropic Isolators under my Audiolab CD player , a huge improvement ,I rang the dealer and bought them !
The things that I tried and noticed quite a bit of differences are:
-- Vibrapod & Cones
-- Mutec MC3+ USB with After Dark Emperor Signature ext clock
-- Anti Vibration Magic (blue goo)
I have to say that the most surprising tweaks is the mutec with external clock. The level of improvement is quite substantial. Can't imagine living without it.
Great video! Coincidentally, I just received an Allo Shanti Dual Linear Power supply for my streamer. First blush was more detail.
Try polypropylene ball bearings.
I can't wait for the "cable cooker" drama. Lol
Swapped out the $2 cable that came with my amp and used a $80 diy power cable, and the sound got way better! No more harshness, and better intregration of the music! Never expected that from a $80 cable!
Thanks for the video. The best tweak I have is Stabilant 22A, a product designed for NASA that improves electrical connections at the molcular level. I use it when installing interconnects.
The MiniDSP definitely works and I have both that and the little Lyngdorf. So I'm now fully subscribed to room correction. :^D
Ok, I got to give it a try.
THOMAS AND ALL: I just bought a T+A Power Amplifier (German Brand) and WOW what a terrific amplifier! I also changed the powercord and AGAIN a difference for the better (DH Labs). Thank You for the suggestions!
Great to hear!
This is clearly audible in the test segments. Big difference in clarity of the elements. Nice find!
USB cable from my MAC (streamer) to my amp!! I was on the side of the snake oil on cables but after upgrading the usb cable to a "BetterCables Blue Truth HiFi Audiophile USB Cable" I'm on the side of cables matter, shocking improvement!
Thanks great video!!! I really appreciate what you do
Sbooster BOTW p&p eco mk II 5v LPS with Bluesound node 2i (after PD Creative modification) and Isoacoustics Gaia III with Focal Chora 826. Both great tweaks!
Linear power supplies are no tweaks Thomas it's mandatory on DACs, streamers, turntables and phono preamp.
I believe I already told you before about the jcat optimo 3. I built mines using the same layout and parts. I use them on every dac that i tried and every streamer.
On DACs : i can say even on a 1000$ or 5000$ dac it's worth it to me. Because it brings something the dac itself can't do. And it is repeatable the higher you go in prices. The effect stays the same. The thing it allows to happen for a 1000$ dac is the same it allows for a 5000 or more Dac. The difference is maybe the 5000 had more to show in the first place so more is amplified. You already told the differences. + Tones.
On streamers like raspberry pie, ifi streamer, moon audio,... It brings more black background. Naturality, kills sibilance and harshness. Makes the soundstage deeper meaning improve the feeling of something going from the front/speakers to you. Improves tones.
When i experienced it last year. I decided to try many linear power supplies : all the ifi ones, audiophonics, the ones the British audiophile talked about and Hans bekenheizer,.. i sort of arrived in a consensus that under 250 most are hit or miss. It still works but the effect is hardly perceptible. At 500 or more it starts to become interesting because they are often oversized and it counts a lot. I understood by trial and error that the more current available the better. If you need 1Amp buy a 3A at least. But it must come from the power supply not a transistor. You need a big toroidal transformer and big capacitors. No clever design to amplified the current with transistors. (The sin of affordable linear power supplies).
If you stream my friend. Put even audiophonics lpsus on your internet box and all your switches. Put a nice one on the last Switch + a nice RJ45 cable. You won't believe your ears. Digital becomes analog.
Man, so no need for me to go test, $500+ is the key. thanks!
hmmmm great ideas. I have an sbooster on my rPi4 with pi2AES, but I heard separating the power supply between rpi and the hat makes a difference. I'll keep the pricier sbooster on the hat and put a shanti on the basic rpi board for my next 'tweak'
No. You first start off calling your power company to get a dedicated circuit. Then get a LPS if you want it easy. But if you want pure clean power with the proper overhead, building a battery bank with the respective amps / voltage matched with large capacitors.
@@epi2045 Good luck with that when living in an appartment in a big city.
Plus what i said is the best start, closer to the gear. and you can work your way down to the circuit breaker later and maybe further if you are allowed.
@@yannick930 That’s true. And it would be hard to justify that expense living in an apartment.
I like spring style feet under speakers. Take out a few springs. I never feel my stands vibrate.
Fuses, silver cables and a Tripp Lite Isobar plug in.
The Tripp Lite does a very good job in fighting thousands of miles of dirty signal.
Enjoyed this video - my favourite tweak so far is changing amps! :) agree that most tweaks are so subtle that they can’t solve major component or room problems - bigger challenges take bigger steps.
I like this review, “I’ve never tried, it so I don’t know”. Fair enough. You get my “like”.
yes it does work the science behind cooking the cables Thomas.
it help with dielectrics introduces the air affect into the wire
I’m more of the mindset like Mr. Vintage | Mr. Kanto, as everything in our system makes a difference…….., I’m an avid proponent of isolation footers ( namely Shun Mook | Yamamoto Sound Craft | IsoAcoustics Orea | Gaia ) as well as changing connectors on the rear of gear and speakers ( RCA | Binding Post ) as well as understanding the difference of the purity of copper used with Banana | BFA Plugs, and once again each make for remarkable improvement in cleaner | clearer sound.
One of the best isolation items i used were the Yamamoto magnetic suspensions under my amplifier and CDP..........opened up the space beyond the walls ........
I use an Anker Powerbank which is effectively a battery with 2 USB connectors. It is rated at 18W maximum output. So it can output either 12V at 1.5A or 5V at 3A. It was on sale when I bought it and cost £20. In use it lasts a surprisingly long time before you need to recharge it. The only downside is that it does take many hours to recharge fully.
Linear PS is a must for me, both Dac and streamer. I am now using the LT 3045 chip for my linear PS. No turning back so far. To be honest, I am quite surprised you only realised now the importance of linear PS as a highly experienced audiophile. But good review this time! 👍
best tweak, as some may consider that as a tweek and it does not cost much. It costs space. Move speakers away from walls, away from corner and spend time to properly position speakers, and listening position.
Cmon guys let’s get to 2k likes! I wanna see that cable cooker in action
I installed a power supply in my Node 2i which I also used as a DAC. Huge difference. Now i have an external Border Patrol DAC. Wonder if it matters on the streamer now….
How did you install a powersupply?
As you consider digital room correction also a tweak, this worked for me the most to get rid of two nasty room modes. Using the room optimization Linn offers in their Selekt DSM.
Linear power supply tweak definitely the most effective tweak for me, and I am a DIYer
Can you point me toward a video, or walk through on such a project?
Some recent tweaks that made a difference. Changing to a customer return Pangea 7 gauge power cord directly plugged into the wall for my Denon pma a100 amp, I’ll switch back to the Doge 10 now that the weather has cooled off and plugging everything else into a $32 Furman power conditioner. Lowered the noise floor and got rid of the light turntable hum that I had. Sounds more relaxed and powerful without a doubt. I’ve done some other things like a funk firm tt mat, locking Canare interconnects from best cable company and bi wire locking blue Jean canare speaker cables(I like tight connections) and IKEA cutting boards under my towers all relatively inexpensive. The power cord and conditioner had the most effect I’d say. I just enjoy the music and sound without picking it apart for sure.
🤗👂WATCHING AGAIN… I DEFINITELY HEAR IMPROVEMENTS
EVEN WITH THE R800i 👍
I STARTED OUT YEARS AGO WITH THE PANAMAX M5500-EX …before I had experience …# 1 TO PROTECT MY FUTURE PURCHASES AND # 2
CLEAN UP ANY POSSIBLE PROBLEMS ….and I also ran a dedicated line to my system 😁
Lastly I added the PS AUDIO PERFECT WAVE AC-3 power cable
And RIGHT AWAY HEARD AN IMPROVEMENT …and AS IT BURNED IN IT GOT EVEN BETTER 😁
ANY WAY THAT IS MY STORY….
AND I’M STICKING TO IT 🤗😍😍😍
I've always been a skeptic on stuff like this, but a linear power supply can and does improve sound. I added a Teddy Pardo to my Chord Qutest DAC and it improved it no-end.
I had a WTF moment when I connected a 12 V ZeroZone LMPS to my exaSound e62 DAC. I heard it immediately. I paid 150 used, retail $300. It also has a 5V output for another clock/hub in my system. I had to buy a DC plug adapter to make the cable for. My bud just sold his Paul Hynes LMPS; I just didn’t want to drop 1k on it. Great video Tomas.
From your tweaks i am also using IKEA boards, Soundcare spikes and an external linear supply for my Lumin Mini. I am also using grounding boxes to amp, streamer and speakers.
It all starts with clean power supplies…. Surprised you have only just discovered the benefits. In my experience, good quality linear supplies can completely change/improve tonal balance, detail, and decay.
Good switching supply with lower noise exist they just cost more.
Funny to see the Neutrik PowerCON for DC transport :-)
It's called DC, direct current. You can not hear DC. Once an amps supply furnishes a constant highly filtered DC to the rest of the amp there's nothing else you can do or hear, the rest is smoke, mirrors and cognitive dissonance. The end!
A Like in the appropriate place and a Like here for the video and your discovery.
MiniDSP can do really great things with bass management. It pairs well with REW.
Hi Thomas, hoping you can put out the R800i amp review soon. Need to decide in the next 4 weeks if I will order the R800i or Doge 10
Hmm, that is a tough one. 4 weeks, I probably will have it ready. The problem I was told the Doge 10 MK3 is way better than the one I have.
@@ThomasAndStereo Thanks for quick reply Thomas. Yes it was interesting to read on their website how Marc and the Doge team had taken your feedback and made further enhancements to the Mk3. My gut feel is Doge 10; a team that license to their customers/reviews and makes improvements so fast, says allot to me.
I have 91db sensitive speakers today and soon I will be purchasing a pair of Klipch Forty IV. My music taste is EDM and vocals mainly, so I think a combined class A /AB with above speakers would give me a wider coverage. It was only the 300b 805's that allot say are the gold standard, that made me really consider r800i.
Based on all the above, is there anything else I should consider when choosing between the Doge10 and r800i???
My thanks and kind regards.
@@MW-pk1qm I need to get back the Doge 10 to ab test to know
I agree with room correction and mini dsp.
Hi Thomas ,
Having messed around with do it yourself audio projects I have found using large power supply that was much bigger than needed always sounds so much better, so a phono preamp that needed less than one amp of current sounded so much better with 3 amps. Whenever you feed each channel with its own power supply we just stop the game, sort of like mono blocks
With amps the circuit will only draw what it needs. So with your 3 amps supply it may only be drawing 2 of the 3 amps. Maybe that pre amp needs 4 or 5, if it's sucking all 3 up then it needs a bigger power supply.
Please do a video of the MiniDSP 2x4; there are quite a few in UA-cam but I have not found one that talks in detail of how to install it and run the room correction in a stereo system; looks like all videos talk about home theaters and subwoofers which are a different world.
I have a lot of tweeks in my system, mainly for fun. The one that made the biggest difference are my sub platforms. Being on the second floor it made a big difference. If you are on concrete I dont think you would get the same effect.
I definitely would like to see you do a video on the cable cooker. 👍
Hi Thomas
As you probably know Sean from zero fidelity has been struggling with Covid, so I would like to wish him, you and all of your followers a healthy and happy holiday season
Take Care
Bill
Yes, you too. Thanks!
Listened to the demo on my most revealing system - custom built tube preamp, dynaudio evoke 50's, Passlabs X150.8 - yes, distinct difference, the linear powersupply version was richer, fuller and had more heft - also, not shrill. Sounded outright fantastic - first time you demoe'd that DAC where I thought it actually sounded better than just 'ok'!
I'm surprised you're still sticking with that Exasound DAC - must have been a present from the wife? :)
The exasound has a nice warm midrange as well as a non aggressive top end. So I have not come across another DAC except the Meitner.
@@ThomasAndStereo Yes, I figured there was something you like about it which didn't come though so far when you demoed it. The linear power supply did make a big difference though, sounds good even on the recording - what was immediately apparent is that the singer's voice actually had some depth - not just the kinda shrill 'clustering' in the upper frequency range that often appears with that recording.
BTW - I've been experimenting with USB cables lately, and am somewhat dismayed to find out that they can also make a dramatic difference, even though I really don't see how. So far,according to my testing, USB cables with solid core signal cables sound distinctly better than those with stranded signal cables, even though I'm sure that they would measure exactly the same, and that any differences should be inaudible. Well, the differences are NOT inaudible, but very apparent, even though I really can't explain why.
@@decoryder yeah, I did test USB cables years ago and yeah we can hear a difference
@@ThomasAndStereo When it comes to cables, speaker or USB cables- stranded vs solid wires seems to be the common denominator... There's something going on with the electrical impulses doing phase shifts as they're strand hopping on stranded cables... problem is, nobody is measuring that factor, therefore lots of people claim that 'the $2.00 USB cable measures the same as a more expensive cable, ergo they sound the same' - I was in that camp until not too long ago:)
Fascinating, if one imagines an electrical signal traveling through a stranded cable, one would probably see it changing paths many times per second, traveling along the path of least resistance - it would look a bit like lightning coming down in different shapes over a specific area. A single stranded/solid core cable would not exhibit this behavior, and just travel along the same path, every time.
🤗WE ENJOY THE TWEAKS👍 VICARIOUSLY NOW …. And someday we hope in person 🤗
Meanwhile we broaden our views 🧐 THANKS TO YOU AND YOUR FRIENDS 😍😍😍
I am not surprised about the results. I used a better power supply for my Ifi bluetooth streaming/dac and I could hear the difference, same thing goes for vibration. I was skeptical whit that, but once I used the isoacoustics zazen on my turntable it was night and day.
I have to agree about clean power. I have a system powered by a pure sine wave inverter that gets its energy from solar powered batteries. The HK amp produces deep base, and super wide sound stage but is not as defined as my home powered Yamaha AS 2100 with the same speaker.
Best tweak for me has been Isoacoustics isolating pucks. The biggest difference was putting them as new feet on my Tekton DI's. Tighter base & better clarity overall. I ending up putting them under my DAC, preamp, mac mini & amp. It seemed to help those also.
Yes, Mr Kanta has a set and it does work.
@@ThomasAndStereo My DAC is also an Exasound (E-22) like yours!
Putting the MiniDSP on the same level as a " cable cooker" is quite a bold thing to do, lol..
Quite a few years ago I bought the Musical Fidelity Vdac II after reading Sam Telligs review in Stereophile, I always liked his down to earth style when it came to equipment reviews. He mentioned he tried a linear power supply as well as the included $2 cheap switching unit that came with the dac.
I worked in the power supply industry for most of my life so i know how important a power supply can be so I bought a $20 12v linear regulated power supply on amazon and found it sounded a lot better than the included cheap switchmode wall wart. I did not try the $100 unit Sam recommended but I can tell you the $20 unit I used made a big difference in that $180 dac
Thomas to your points.I recently replaced my c.early 1950s electrical service with a new state of the art 200 amp set up from the pole.I noticed a big improvement in the sound of my PL power amp.Next up a dedicated line from the breaker box to the sound system per your comments.I am adding a Pontus dac which seems to have a clean ,robust internal power supply;as does the PL.I think the external power supply may be more relevant in homes with "noisier" electrical 120 v supplies or interior wiring.HBU?
dedicated
Cooking cables, power supplies, expensive snake oils. Playing music via compressed youtube and all I hear is my tv speakers and my tvs electronics. All internal powr supplies will have filters built in, and also changing the current before the electricity reaches the audio components. That music you play at the end of the video sounds like my tv everytime.
Hit the Like BUTTON !
😃 Love the tweaks! Go Thomas !!
The thing I tried and kept was isoacoustics gaia 2 for my focal 936. It s really nice.
I second that. A year back I had them on test from the dealer for two weeks for trying with my Focus 340's. Replacing soundcares. In reality, I emailed my dealer already in the afternoon whether I could keep the demonstration units - they were new anyway. Try Chris Jones' Moonstruck album without, then with. Or the Hell Freezes Over intro of Hotel California. A real wtf. Thomas you must try this...
My Exogal Comet Plus DAC came with the optional power supply I've heard it's a must have upgrade for the Exogal DAC
I noticed similar differences using an external psu on the Mytek Brooklyn dac
I would be interested if the rice cooker could drive Magnepan speakers....
Great video ty very much! My view is very similar!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Getting pretty close to that 2,000 likes, Thomas 😜
Linear power supply helped cleanup the sound of my schiit mani 😍 a worthy investment
Would be interesting to compare this with the Ferrum HYPSOS. It's a tweak-able power supply; haven't seen that anywhere else...
Please do a review of the new left-handed skyhook.
Hi Thomas. An interesting discussion - as always. May I recommend that you next try with one of IsoTek power cleaning items. I have noticed clear improvement in my system - similar to your description with your ExaSound DAC. I am using an Auralic/Chord (Mscaler+Hugo TT) front end. Greetings to you and yours.
Hello from Montreal, great video on tweaks or would you say upgrades to power supplies. Would you say that any hifi component should have or include lps. My system has slowly being upgraded but unfortunately I rent and unable to install a dedicated line also my room is not ideal for hifi. Upgrading my Dac from my built in one on my Mcintosh C2600 preamp to a Denafrips Venus II was a big leap in sound quality. My digital source is in great shape now with my Innuos streamer and the Phoenix reclocker into the Venus Dac, very happy!
Hi Thomas, thanks for the red heart....have you ever tried any Exposure amplification? It's a british company and it's available in Montreal (Art et Son).
Great chat as usual. I personally wouldn't define a linear PSU as a tweak. Ask Naim. A power supply is an essential part of a component, not a optional addition, so you are upgrading that part. Best connectors for PSU are G16 aviation connectors imo. Sorbothane under transport worked for me!
Low ripple voltage is only part of the equation. How fast the caps can deliver the current is the other part. If the linear power supply has slow caps, the result will be compressed and lack bass.
Very curious about dsp.
The biggest issue is the Radio Frequency that comes from AC power lines. Not all equipment is able to eliminate the noise completely, the low end buzz around the 50 or 60 hertz range. I’m interested in a power conditioner that does what it is supposed to do at a reasonable price.
Nice information but will this Linear Power supply support my Denafrips DACS? Is this only applicable for DACS with 5V power supplies? Anyways the best tweak that worked for my system is my speaker decouplers, thanks for sharing happy listening 👍
No it will not.
You've got to try the rose quartz tweak, also take your cables for cryo treatment and let us know if you hear anything.
What if you don't like the delivery after cooking the cable?
Heard changing the internal powersupply of a bluenode 2 is good, haven't tried it yet.
Anyone had experience?
Agreeing with Thomas here, powersupplies is a specialised skill and often overlooked or a moneysaver
I've a Node 2i, modded with PD-Creative 5v Interface connected to an Allo Shanti LPSU. The differences were huge across the board, Component level change IMO.
@@seeuatRIP09 cool, making notes:)
There does seem to be just a bit more air. Probably less noticeable thru 'tube. My dac has a buffer switch, that when on, resamples the music (gazillions of times) for a second. I always use it when listening to music, and off when watching vids, because you get a one-second sound lag. It takes the sound to another level, and after hearing it, I wouldn't want to do without it…
As soon as you told us you buy stuff and don't get around to actually using it, I knew I had to comment. Let me say, I'm glad I'm not alone. I buy stuff faster than I can implement anything. The tweaks. The recommendations. And on and on. Yes please rev the cable cooker. I sounds like the next nutty thing I have to get. Maybe a chair with as Yosemite Sam would say, with biscuit burners. Seriously though, this hobby is like automotive trick of the week. I'm trying to keep my system simple and well..cheap. It's not working. Your not helping.
The first part of recovery is admitting I'm hooked. I don't want to be cured, I want the cable cooker.
The audio journey is endless and there are tons of this not too expensive tweeks to play with. I am intrigue with the cable cooker as a UK cable professional told me that alot of people fail to experience the full potential of their cables (investments). Bring it on Thomas LOL not sure i should place it in my kitchen though.
Yes you should and while you are at it, have you not noticed how the morning toast tastes crispier when you cook the power cable of the toaster the night before.
Regarding the cable cooker I'd love to see it tested. I have an unproven pet theory along the lines and that is: If I use far better equipment to burn in my cables will I benefit from it in my more modest system, will I hear an improvement compared to "home" burnt cables. Anyone up to test it....?
Funniest Thomas and Stereo UA-cam video I have seen :)
Please review the Musical Fidelity M8xi
Id be curious. I usually just use the reduction method, but a rice cooker could work ok too.
The "tweak" that made the biggest difference to my system was .. by far .. adding an XLR to RCA converter between my DAC's balanced output to my amps single-ended input. Now ... for this to have maximum impact .. you can't go cheap. The quality of the transformer is critical. I bought the Decware ZBIT with a Jensen transformer. It was the best $800 I ever spent. Audio quality improved significantly. Soundstage, spatial quality, much tighter bass, etc. If you have a DAC with balanced output and an amp with single-input ... this converter is the best $$ you will every spend.
What's the name of the converter you brought?
Liniear PSU. Most people i know use a IFI power adapter and the all claim it improves the sound of there dac's. Step up you can go for a Sbooter. The price here is already 6x as much as the IFI. But the improvement a bit better then the IFI.
I use IFI and Sboosters in my system to give peace of mind... "what if am missing out on better music." Most say my music experience is better with them. For me its a bit part of the hobby testing little tweaks.
Not sure If this is aloud. But if you want to check cheap linear power supply's I do NOT recomand Teradak(chi-fi) They break easely and you have zero after-sales/warranty. Am waiting over 9 months now a a spare part. Just friendly warning for people that wat try cheap options.
You should really try the Matrix Element H card you had pictured there. I noticed an audible improvement when I added that to my system
I did and I already made a video on it and it sure makes a difference. However my new pc is a mini pc so it cannot take any cards. ua-cam.com/video/Hn7QZg0resA/v-deo.html
Be sure to check out Teddy Pardo products.
Sadly no longer making DACs or amplifiers, now just PSU's containing his special regulators nobody else can use commercially.
Been around a long time.
Hagerman Audio Labs also sells his own cable cookers at a decent price. Not tried them (yet )
Thanks for the video.
Great video! Many hot topics. I'd hate to try that Rice Burner on that Tellurium Q cable and regret it. Very interesting to find out how long the effects of burning in a cable lasts. Like you, I store cables for a while when I change things up and switch. Lol I don't have time either. That's one of the reasons I haven't gone into vinyl. Too much time cleaning records and then adjusting the turn table and etc. ✌️
Man, I did not even tried those cables
@@ThomasAndStereo What!? Man, you have to. If you don't want them I'll take them. 😂
BTW I to have a miniDSP 2x4HD new in the box. And an etherregen switch. And an Afterdark OCX clock. And a plex (small green computer) linear power with four power out. And a PS power regenerator. And.... understand.
Hi Thomas I have an unrelated question to the topic you’re talking about on this video so my question is I want to buy a pair of focal kanta , I know you like your focal speakers. So I was wondering if you could recommend an amplifier for the Kanta. I have listened to them with a naim sounded good but what are my other options. All the best Clint. 🇬🇧
The good part with Kanta is you can drive it pretty much with any power amp. Not power hungry at all. I don't have a specific recommendation because it depends on the sound you like but you don't have to worry you need 200w to drive it, good 50w to 100w can do wonders with it.
@@ThomasAndStereo Thanks Thomas, I fell in love with the look of the kanta , and they did sound great with the naim amp i’ll go back to my dealer and listen to similar price amps. It’s difficult £10,000 for speakers and amp need to make sure I’m making the right choice that’s why I’m seeking some advice from you I know you love your focals. The naim amp did sound good , but I’m not totally convinced , anyway any advice from you is always welcome thank you Thomas. 👍
Power supply is the most important link in audio . If you use tube amps , you should try Border Patrol tube power supply's . You need little modification and you get the most amazing results with tube amps , tube dacs and tube preamps .
Looking forward to your review on the Willsenton R800i tube integrated amp. Also noticed the CSS speaker you are using, care to elaborate how you find that tweeter on the speaker comparing to those natural sounding speakers you have heard so far. I am actually considering getting that tweeter for a DIY build.
Hi Thomas, also hoping you can put out the R800i amp review soon. Need to decide in the next 4 weeks if I will order the R800i or Doge 10.
Hi Thomas, also hoping you can put out the R800i amp review soon. Need to decide in the next 4 weeks if I will order the R800i or Doge 10.
still big difference though. well done.
I'd really like to see a review on that cable cooker - - without going into detail, I've got a high end cooker myself - had it for over a year, it's still in the box - - but - - all of the cables I'm running with the exception of my power cables, which are a different brand, have been "cooked" at the dealer - the cooker that all of the dealers have of this particular brand has been upgraded in recent times and goes for about 6K - the one I have that's still in the box costs a bit over 2K and is supposed to be a high power model - one thing I'd be particularly interested in is whether or not there's changes in power cables after cooking - I've been told that cooking them is as important as all the other cables - I'm on the fence with this stuff so I'd really welcome a review of your Siltech. Thanks Thomas.
This unit cannot cook cable.
@@ThomasAndStereo Ohhh - I'm sorry Thomas, I thought the Siltech box that I saw in your vid was one of those cable "massaging/break in" devices. My mistake.
@@skip1835 it is but it can only break in interconnects and speaker cables
@@ThomasAndStereo Oh, gotcha Thomas - - thanks for bringing me up to speed and letting me know - - still love to have a review from you if you can ever fit it in - - the thing is, I can't tell you if the stuff the dealer did to my other cables did anything or not, they were on this machine for 7 days straight, some guys do it for 14 days and swear by it - I didn't hear them prior so I don't "really" know - so yes, I would be interested in what your thoughts are with the Siltech if you ever get a chance to mess with it - thank you again and regardless, I'm sorry I didn't do a bit of homework before I commented before.
Thomas, how about using a long lasting rechargeable battery (plus a spare one) instead of a $1000 supply to power your exaSound? Would love to hear your comments if you test that idea.
Interesting, perhaps one day I will test it.
hi Thomas finally you put a power supply to your dac........
Do it do it do it! We wanna see the cable cooker! Next level snake oil? Only time will tell. Lol
Hey Thomas,
I'd be interested to see if after cooking the cables and (maybe) changing the sound, if it goes back to it's original sound after that. I'd also request starting with an already normally "burned in" pair of cables.
Apparently it goes back to its original sound after a while
I'd like see a cable burner video:p