How to repair a broken sliding door cable on a 2011-17 Honda Odyssey
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- If either of the sliding doors on your 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey stopped working, it could simply be a broken cable.
If you can hear the motor trying to work, but the door won't fully open or close, or you see a cable hanging, then this fix might help you. If you get into the project and find that the cables are fine and the motor is shot, you can still use a lot of the same processes found in this video to replace the motor assembly. That's actually a slightly easier process as you can simply unbolt the old motor and cables and then bolt in the replacement ones.
Put into perspective, a replacement motor is around $600, and that's not including installation labor. The replacement cable kit, on the other hand, is less than $20.
Either way, plan on dedicating a few hours to this project as there are a lot of pieces to it, and it can be frustrating. Keep calm, enjoy a cold beverage, and best of luck.
Music by:
Dirty Hardcore Groove by WinnieTheMoog
Link: filmmusic.io/s...
License: filmmusic.io/s...
I love the involvement of your boys. I was a collision technician for 30 years and my boys would ditch me mid project on mom’s car all the time as well.
I'm lucky that they still like helping me
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts
Amen to that. When my boys became teenagers they ran from me on Saturdays. Now that they have their own families, houses and car troubles they are always looking for me and expressing how much they miss and appreciate those days. I love it.
Your video saved me a ton of time and money, so thanks for that. Cable orientation was also opposite your experience for me on the passenger side door that I fixed - front went back and back went front (2013 model). I had a much easier time with my exterior side panel - once I removed the two hex screws on the back, I was able to slide it off the connectors by pulling the whole thing toward the rear of the vehicle. Also, great to see on these Honda Odyssey cable replacement videos that all our minivans look the same with Cheerios, busted crayons, and toys randomly strewn throughout our 2nd homes. Thanks again - my wife and kids were so impressed I did this myself!
Awesome! So glad our video helped you, and you were able to fix it on your own! Yeah, I'm pretty sure we are all in our Odysseys about as much as we're in our homes...
You saved me $2000. Only thing the cable orientation in your video is the opposite on my 2016. Front cable goes behind and back cable goes in front. I used pointy nose vice grips to stop the white pullys falling out while respooling. You got me 95% there and my father-in-law and I didn't kill each other doing this job, thanks so much for taking the time. No Honda dealer in Vancouver would do this repair. Absolutely no one. 🎉
***
Side note, I did the passenger side with the aircon. Don't need to remove the aircon, just the plastic ducts, die grind away a larger hole on the inside body for easier access to the back 3 nuts on the back wire assembly.
Glad the video helped. It's a bit of a project, but I think it's worth the time (and in your case no one else would even do it).
(2012 EX-L) I'm struggling with the driver's side, the rear cable back of the pulley, or the front of the pulley. I don't want to ruin the cable or the motor!
@@Ahmad_Alhasanat The rear cable goes into the back side of the pulley.
Man this was super easy with this video saved me a thousand dollars thanks.
Excellent. This took a while but still saved $$$$. Door roller hinge all rusted so had to completely remove to get pin out but was able to clean it up and apply some grease, and still easy to line up. Love the kids’ comments around 11mins in: “is dad gonna get a new car if he can’t fix it?” “I hope he does.”
Yeah, they were really pushing for a Suburban ;)
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Chevy
Is a bad car company I would buy a CR-V or pilot
Likely a bit late but check the condition of your center roller hinge, they wear out easily and that contributes to the cable breakdown. Not cheap though, for the Honda part.
I'm looking into doing this in my sister's van to both doors. Great video and explanation walking through your steps and thought process.
You are a hero. Did the passenger side, which was behind the AC. Huge pain. Couldn’t have done this without your help!
Glad I could help!
No need to touch the A/C. Simply unscrew the white "nut" with your fingers and remove the plastic vent pipe. Now you have access to all the bolts/screws you need. Only tough one is the rear bolt but you can access it with an offset wrench. Only other difference is the rear cable goes on the front of the pully (and the front cable goes on the rear).
@@jimmynewtron221because of your comment I was finally able to figure this out. Thanks!
Job well done and very well explained as well. I was looking for a video to understand what happened to the wire of my Odyssey sliding door and I think after watching your video I know what has happened. I don't think I'm going to try this repair myself, though.
Good tutorial. Fixed my door and everything works. I actually found that winding the cable onto the pulley was the easiest task. I used some electrical tape to hold the white pulleys in place.
Thanks for getting me through this repair. Invaluable video
Thinking about purchasing an Odyssey 2011 and up. Looks a job can't get throlled about but so glad you got it done. Good times good times.
Hi. I loved the boys comments through the video, it makes kind of fun😁. But thank you for the video, details, and effort to explain all the steps. Have the same vehicle, good to know. 👍
Great video. Lots of good tips, descriptions, and video andles. Super helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & tips with us!! With your help, I was able to replace it myself.
Thanks for the video. I was able to allow my soon-to-be 8 year old take the paneling apart and put it back on. It took us about 4 hours.
That's awesome! If you want to see other projects that my kids and I take on, check out their Builder Kids channel at ua-cam.com/video/7gfCQEIgoFA/v-deo.html
just great explaination! it also seems these logical, step-by-step insturctions just come out from his mounth naturally. he is even being with the kids (great kids as well). thank you.
Thanks so much. This is exactly what I suspected was wrong (cable hanging out behind the door) and you confirmed my other suspicion, which is that I don't want to try this myself!
Phenomenal video! Great job! It does take a long time (not mechanically inclined me 4-5 hrs). I recommend an extra set of hands but this is a thoughtful and thorough tutorial on a difficult job.
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback, and glad it helped you out.
how much cost used door passenger side the whole door
What's up bro, thanks so much for the video very helpful for all the diy dads
Damn dude. I feel ya on the tedious nature of this kind of job. It almost makes paying the shop to do the repair worth it.
Awesome job teaching your son
Thanks. The kids are all interested in cars and building things, so we formed a new channel (Builder Kids) to let them focus on stuff they are interested in. If you have kids, definitely check out their channel at ua-cam.com/channels/qHa8qxtH1OF8-gJMswzpgQ.html. And subscribe if you don't mind. The kids are trying to get 100 subs so they can officially name their channel (it's a UA-cam metric).
Great video. Accurate for a 2015 Honda Odyssey. Done last week.
Thank you so much for this! What a great help!
Thanks for sharing your experience. it is really helpful and adorable.
Thank you
IMPORTANT READ THIS!! I did this but the crimp on the inside spool broke so i had to do it over. It was a LOT of time wasted 😢 although, i may not have crimped it with the right tool. So, Just a precautionary tail, make sure to crimp it really well with the right tool. Great video by the way thank you!
Yes, the crimp is very important. It requires a square crimp tool. If you try to crimp it with a different type of crimp tool, the cable will most likely pull out, as you said.
Could you please post a link to the square crimping tool. Thank you
@@peterdonovan9614 There are a lot of crimpers out there, but you would want something like this www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Zhushan-0-08-10mm%C2%B2-End-Sleeves/dp/B089K4ZLMQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1E5QZ6O8ZUM8Y&keywords=square+crimp+tool&qid=1668092018&sprefix=square+crimp+tool%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-4
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts how long ago did you do this and is the repair still good? If so, is the door used a lot? IE kids? :-) thanks
@@bicivelo I did this about a year ago and it's still working. Yeah, I have kids, and this door gets opened/closed several times a day, so it's used a lot.
Thanks great video! Mine recently broke.
Don’t know if I’m going to attempt this one.
Same. Just happened about an hour ago ☹️
It’s a pain in the ass. Winding it is the worst part but if you are patient you can do it
I am having the same issue with the 2020 model. Hoping it is the same process.
Great detail! Thanks
For those with doors that won't open at all, or jam after 6-9", they likely have a bad center roller bearing. They fail often and will contribute to cable stress and breakage as the motor drags the door open (instsad of rolling it open). Honda replacements are expensive as they come with a new control chip for the new design. Manual-only rollers are much cheaper, but of course can't be attached to the cables.
Do you mean that they won't open at all once the broken cable is clipped, or before? When our door first went out, it would not open all the way (at least cleanly) until we cut the cable. Now it can open and close manually just fine. Just trying to clarify before I dive into this project. Thanks!
@@spenceringley4185 Sounds like you're good to just replace the cable. In my case the center rollers had worn out so badly that they would bind at all points in the channel, which is what probably contributed to the cable failing in the first place. So, if you can easily slide the door by hand they should be fine. 👌
Great video. I'm inspired to try and do this on mine now. Would you please share the parts you ordered, (and from where) and a list of the tools required?
Thanks. I ordered a pair of replacement cables from ebay, but unfortunately I don't have a link to the exact ones anymore. They were around $20 and were something like these www.ebay.com/itm/133965626818?fits=Year%3A2011%7CModel%3AOdyssey%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item1f30f93dc2:g:568AAOSwHj9huqeQ. I also bought a square cable crimp tool, like this www.ebay.com/itm/293880638642?hash=item446ca6acb2:g:avUAAOSw4gRfzeTM. The other tools used were screwdrivers, allen wrenches, and a ratchet and sockets. I believe I mention the specific sizes in the video, though.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Thank you so much! Wish me luck!😳
Your video was very helpful. Watched it several times. Putting the cables into the spool was so difficult, and if I did not have a 2nd set of hands it would have been impossible. The door I was fixing was the passenger side and had the AC unit to content with. Got it all put back but was unable to "reset" the door like you mentioned as the doors (both sliding) would not open. Then after the door open alarm would not turn off (but the door lights did not indicate being ajar) Going to try again tomorrow with the doors, but any thoughts why they both would not open (fuse was fine) and then the door "alarm"? Thanks.
Thanks. Not sure why the door alarm would go off, other than maybe since it wasn't reset there's something off with the sensor? Sorry
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts You need to reset the doors as he describes:
• disconnect battery
• turn dashboard power door button to OFF position
• manually close door
• reconnect battery
• turn dashboard power button to the ON position
• press and hold dashboard open button until door fully opens
• press and hold dashboard close button until door fully closes
To save anyone else some time - those white fasteners holding the outside panel on have grooves - they don’t need to come out - just get the panel a little loose and then slide toward the back of the van - mine came out, all fasteners still in place.
I thanked jeebus when it came off so easy because yeah, the fasteners are in impossible spots from the inside.
Also when putting this panel back on you can turn the fasteners 45degrees and they slip out of the holes, then you can slide them back into the panel before “popping” it back in place.
Awesome.. Just had mine front wire broke and the door is stuck open halfway through.. I dont know what to do.. dealership will charge me arm and a leg to fix this..
2018 Denton TX
Do any of these nuts have any torque specs? Like the pulley i think might be the only thing that might have any.
They might, but I didn't come across that info. I simply tightened until they felt snug.
i fix my self👍👍👍,,good video
Hello brother, I have the same problem with the video. The door does not move at all, and only the bell works
Knowing that I changed the same piece that I installed
Is the door programmed?
The door will need to be reset, but it should still move even if you didn't reset it. If the door isn't moving at all, then I would disconnect both cables from the door and try to move them back and forth to make sure everything is free.
The rear cable goes in the front of the pulley and the front cable goes in the rear of the pulley (for right door). The cables must go directly to the internal tensioners and never cross one over the other. I spent more than three hours finding what was wrong.
Thanks for posting this
@@RaybuckAutoBodyPartsreally really good video - helped me through this step by step. Only part I had trouble following was re-rigging the two white pulleys inside the motor assembly and I felt you glossed over that part probably due to how long the whole thing was taking (I bet you were exhausted). Thanks again, Dad!
I just followed this video and it was incredibly helpful. What I ran into is the cables I ordered ended up being the same size instead of differences sizes. I had to cut them down to get them to fit but I must not have cut them to the right length because it broke again after two uses. I think I may have cut too much off but I have no idea how long they each should be. Does anyone have the precise lengths? I ordered another set and they also were the same length.
The front cable is 74.5" and the rear cable is 64.5". The generic cables come 74.5" so you only need to cut one of them to length.
Would it make sense to oil and grease the moving parts + rail while you're in there?
Probably wouldn't hurt. I was in the mindset of just trying to fix it, so I hadn't thought about additional lubrication at the time.
Thanks for the information.
You are good 👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks my friend 😊
Great video! Fortunately my cables are fine but maybe you can help me. I need to replace the middle roller, right side. The door came completely off. I can only locate the middle roller with a circuit board. All the ones I find without one say it doesn't fit my vehicle. I have a 2012 touring elite.
Thanks! Are you talking about the roller arm that connects the door to the sliding track on the outside of the van? If so, I'm not aware of any that would have a circuit board.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts yes sir. On the Honda parts website(hondaparts.net) there is a diagram of parts. It gives me this part number 72521-TK8-305. Upon futher investigation of this part number we found it comes with a circuit board. We did a Google image search and also there was some talk about it on the Ody Club Forum.
@@heatherramsey6813 Got it. That circuit board looks to be the power control unit. That's a separate piece from the sliding hinge. Not sure why it would need to be replaced if the hinge is replaced, but it's definitely a separate item.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts and actually I was looking at hondapartsonline.net my apologies for the mistype. I thank you for your help. I sure do appreciate it. I am at a loss. The dealership has it listed as replacing both parts too. I called them a bit ago to ask. It makes zero sense to us why that would need to be replaced but all parts sites I have been on so far and the dealership sell it all together. I will keep looking. I do not want to drop $375 on this if I dont have to.
@@heatherramsey6813 Likely a bit late, but it seems that Honda improved the roller design with the available replacement and it requires a slight program modification or something to work properly. I found the $124 one, but it lacked the cable clips (manual door only), contemplated a JB Weld solution, but ended up returning it and paying the $550CAD for the one with a chip.
Hi, thanks, for the response. We have confirmed that is the cable on the passenger side as well. The problem is to get to the roller assembly for the rear cable, the rear air conditioner/heater unit is placed directly in front of the 3 nuts that need to be removed. Do you have a video showing how to remove the heater/AC or some other work around?
Sorry, I haven't done anything with the passenger side yet, so I don't have any videos, or tips, for that side.
just remove the 3 bolts holding the ac box and lean it towards you i used a swivel 10 mm socket
Don't need to remove anything. Cut the end of the cable at a 45 degree angle and fish it in from the outside. Easy peasy
At 19:00 you are talking about the plastic pulley the cables wrap around. You were saying that yours is good though, what if it wasn't? Can you buy just that part? Mine is pretty mangled and I don't think the groves are holding the cable very well.
I looked around as I was going to buy a new one just because it was all apart, but I never found one. I don't think anyone makes this in the aftermarket, so you may be stuck buying a whole motor assembly (unless you can find a used pulley).
Not sure if it's been said, but my door was stuck in the closed position. I could get the back of the sliding door to pop out only about a 1/4". I didn't know how i was going to get that door footplate off to get the rear side panel off, but according to a forum post, disconnecting the battery terminals will release the cable motor and allow you to manhandld the door open. I managed to get the door to open about 9", which was enough to remove the footplate and get the side panel all the way out.
Thanks for that note as I don't think I mentioned it.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts also, for whatever reason, i have to remove the cable pulley cover and turn it with a socket wrench to get the door to move. I can't just force the door to slide. I have a bidirectional diagnostic tool on the way to try to figure out the problem. After a door reset (disconnect battery, close door, reconnect), it works 2-3 times, then stops working again. So frustrating...
@@jackforester73 Could be your center roller is shot. It is a chronic issue apparently, and a major factor in cables snapping. With the bearings gone it's really difficult to open manually. A manual-only center roller is $124CAD, the one with the cable clips is $550CAD and it comes with a new control chip. Seems the design was improved, but requires a slight programming update to work properly. Had to replace the L one, but am keeping an eye on local wreckers for a spare R one.
Hi. Which cable goes in the back of the pully. Longer cable (front door) goes in the front of the pully? Thank you.
The rear cable goes into the back side of the pulley.
can you add a link to the particular cable you bought? The one I bought came with ends that were not wide enough and slipped out as soon as I turned to door back on (what a pain!)
Here's the cable that I used - www.ebay.com/itm/353190560301
Thank you so much for this video. I recently did the passenger side, which was a challenge due to the AC unit back there. I put the cover on the motor and wanted to give it a try before putting all the plastic and trim back on. When I hit the open button to reset it, I hear the lock disengage and them about 3 beeps. It doesn't open. Is there some trim or other parts that need installed for it to work? thanks again
I haven't done the passenger side yet, so I'm not sure. There wasn't anything like that on the driver's side. If you find out that there is some sort of safety mechanism, though, please post it here so everyone knows.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Thanks for the reply. I just figured it out. You put the rear cable in the front and the front in the rear of the spool. I had them crisscrossed too. Works perfect now. Thanks again for the video.
How to install the rubber latch for the slinging door of Honda odessey 2006
Thinking of tackling this. Figure I should just go ahead and buy the replacement clips that hold the exterior panel on, so I’m not worried about breaking them. Do you happen to know the name of the clips or the part number?
These are push pin style clips, or more commonly referred to as Christmas Tree clips, but I don't know the OEM number for them.
Be careful removing still, so you don't snap the plastic tabs on the body molding part itself. Don't ask me how I know.
One of the white stopper pulley broke on mine, do you know if they can be found anywhere? or do I have toreplace the whole unit?
Thanks
Sorry, but I can't say that I've seen that anywhwere.
Great video. Do you have the part numbers for the cables?
I don't have those numbers because they were aftermarket. There are a bunch of these listed on ebay, though.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts - OK thanks!
Can you link the ones you purchased that worked? I purchased some off Amazon, they were the same size I just assumed I needed to shorten one of them but once I had it together, found out it wouldn't allow the door to open all the way ... About 2 inches shy of all the way which causes it to automatically shut.
My wife called me and said the passenger door wouldn’t open or close, powered or manually. When she got home I found the cable hanging out of the back of the door. If the cable broke and the door shut would it still be able to be opened manually? I have tried opening it manually with the main switch on and off and the door and even budge. But at minimum the rear cable is broken. Any suggestions?
Yeah, the door can still be opened and closed if a cable breaks. The remaining cable might be bound up, though. You may have to cut the remaining cable in order to get the door to move (manually).
Can you recommend or send the link of the cables to use?
I don't have the link handy, but scroll through a few of the comments and you'll find it.
The front cable is 74.5" and the rear cable is 64.5". The generic cables come 74.5" so you only need to cut one of them to length.
Good lord this looks rough but doable. F the 2g Cos to replace cable
What is the part called that's referred to as a "pulley mechanism" at 32:25? They are white pulleys that have springs attached and the cables get threaded through them right before the cables wrap around the spool. One of mine is broken and I'm not confident that I can glue it back together.
Unfortunately I don't know the correct term for that piece. Maybe someone else here can comment on it?
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Thanks. I glued the part last night and it might hold. If it doesn't, I'm pretty sure the cable won't get reeled into the spool correctly and will break the cable or at least require me to re-cable the door again...and need to replace this "pulley mechanism." Might as well do it now and avoid another problem.
Where did you buy the cable kit?
ebay. There are a bunch of similar kits on ebay and Amazon. If you scroll through the comments I think I even linked to one.
good job sir
What about the passenger side cable replacement? We completed the driver side, just as you showed, but went to the passenger side, where the cable also broke, and we ran into the heater/AC assembly. Any suggestions on getting access to the assembly/roller coming into the car from the outside without removing the heater/AC assembly?
Sorry, I haven't done the passenger side yet. But, our passenger door is starting to make odd noises so I'll probably be doing it relatively soon. Not sure what to suggest on how to get around the heater/AC assembly as I haven't seen it yet.
No need to remove the cable guide. Just cut the end of the cable at 45 degrees and push it In from the outside
I see you have added a link to the cable kit, what I have found is the kit is only for the rear cable (shorter length). I can't seem to find a kit that offers both the front (longer cable) and rear cable.... any ideas?
I just looked at the link, and it shows that it comes with two cables. Just doing a quick search, most of the kits seem to come with two different size cables.
The front cable is 74.5" and the rear cable is 64.5". The generic cables come 74.5" so you only need to cut one of them to length.
I was able to perform the entire repair, but it still doesn't work. I believe the replacement cable for the broken cable (rear one) was a little shorter than the original. The wrapping of the cables on the spool didn't seem to match up. When the front cable seemed to be taut, the rear one was loose and visa versa. Unfortunate for me because I did all the work, but didn't work out. Now looking at over $1200 to bring to shop to do. Video was helpful though.
Yes, it sounds like the cables weren't the right length. That's unfortunate, especially after all of that work. The other option would be to find a used motor and cable assembly and just swap everything out. Since you've already gone through the process, it's a fairly easy swap. Used assemblies range from $200-$400.
Sounds like the supplied cables were a little long, so attaching a crimp 1/4" closer on each side (or start with one ) will take the slack out. Door positioning procedure should reset stop point. I replaced the passenger side cables on my '14 TE w/o measuring and get a slight cable slap. I had one of the crimped ferrules break free the first attempt, so I solder on ends from now on. It was a PIA redoing everything after the crimp broke free.
On the visible and hidden side of the pulley, do you wind the cable clockwise or counter clockwise on both sides? Also, do you know of where I could purchase an extra pulley? Looks like mine got a little chewed up.
Sorry, I don't recall the directions for each side. If your pulley is messed up, you're most likely going to need to replace the entire motor assembly. I wasn't able to find a replacement pulley for sale anywhere.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts Thanks
Where you get the cable?
ebay. I've found them on Amazon as well. If you scroll through the comments of this video, there are a few posts that include a link to one of these cable sets.
Gracias amigo
37:35
How long are the new cables approximately
Unfortunately, I didn't measure the length of each cable, so I don't know the exact size. I ordered a kit similar to this one, though - www.ebay.com/itm/133965626818?fits=Year%3A2011%7CModel%3AOdyssey%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item1f30f93dc2%3Ag%3A568AAOSwHj9huqeQ
@Raybuck Auto Body Parts ok this is what I ordered does it look similar
The front cable is 74.5" and the rear cable is 64.5". The generic cables come 74.5" so you only need to cut one of them to length.
My sliding door on the driver side won’t even open manually. How can I open it and use it manually?
You may have to cut one, or both, of the cables. Mine would only open a little bit because the cables were bound inside the motor. The other option would be to take the motor cover off and then remove the gear that the cables attach to.
Thank y.plz what the name of rubber plastic end old cables with assembly and wher can I find like this rubber
Sorry, I'm not sure what rubber you're referring to. Is it the rubber that clips around the end of the cable that slides into the mount on the outside of the van? If so, I'm not sure where you can get those.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts yes this rubber
Why not remove the hinge bolts?
What’s the part number
Can I do this if I am unable to open the sliding door at all? Help
Yes, but you may need to cut the stuck cable in order to free up the door.
Thank you so much!!!!!!!
I've tried the repair but the front cable seemed too short and kept pulling out of the pulley, breaking the crimped end off. May need to review the set up of the limits several times to make sure I'm doing that correctly. Bought another set of cables to try again, because I'm not paying $2,000 for the dealership to perform. Waiting for warmer weather to perform this in my detached, unheated garage.
Double-check that you have the cables placed correctly as one is shorter than the other. Winding the cables into the pulley is also a bit tricky, so you may need to wrap the front cable a little less.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts do you know what the lengths need to be? The cable pairs I have purchased have been the same length.
@@jasonbabcock2742 I don't know the exact lengths, but the rear cable should be shorter than the front cable.
great video! wondering if the way to get the outside panel off the six clips is to slide back about 1/2 inch with jerking motion, not trying to pop directly off . i found video online showing that and it worked for our 2014 odyssey
I can't get enough tension. When I actuate the door the cable has a bit of slack and it jumps off the pulley. Wonder if I should cut the cable a bit (would have to guess) and put a new crimp
I wouldn't think you would have to cut the cable, unless the cable was really for a different year range. Maybe the cables weren't wrapped around the pulley all the way?
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts I thought about it more and looked at some picks and I may have wound the cable the wrong way. If the cable is still ok I will try winding them to opposite sides of the pulley and see if that works better. I had no reference to go with when I took it all apart as it was a total mess.
I tried winding the cable the other way but when I manually slide the door open there is considerable slack in the cable running towards the back on the outside of the vehicle. I don't know how to get rid of that slack. I disconnected the battery and tried homing the door and it opened but when I went to close it the cables slipped out of the grooves in the pulley as they have too much slack. Kind of at a loss of what to do next
@@camilomuzard3498 Do you maybe have the cables swapped (front and back)? One is longer than the other.
I put the longer one to the front and the shorter one to the back
In the decade between 2001 and 2011, Honda could still not figure out how to make electric sliding doors. I'm on my second odyssey and the easiest and best method is to get rid of the electric feature altogether. The doors work better without, IMO.
Does anyone know what the function of the white clips (tensioners?) being pushed in vs not pushed in?
To remove slack on the cables and prevent derailment on the main pulley.
They sliding doors are a problem they should recall these doors. When the door is not working it should be able to manually close all the way but you can't, it's a problem
I am in a parking lot. Door behind driver is half closed. Ack!
Sorry to hear. Exact same thing just happened today on my '14 when we were visit my sister. Luckily, my brother in law had snips to break the cables. I also recommend pulling the 20amp fuse ( #9) from the driver side fuse bank near the hood release. This will allow you to use the rear passenger door in power mode and driver side as manual rather than spin the cable inside the motor assembly.
Mine is so bad , I can't get the door to open, even manually ! I give up !
how to reset car door with battery connected thank you
Watch the end of the video as it talks about how to reset the door.
No honda dealer in my area(cle) will sell me just the
cable,want to include motor too,pkg deal,$730
First to comment! Cool video
36:40 36:00
Thanks, this saves some time. Here's a great how to remove the exterior cover panel, appears pretty simple: ua-cam.com/video/VMeMpSKdVU8/v-deo.html
Drink green Tea For Stress In The Night 🤣🤣
These motor designs are just a poor design. I bought a completely new motor because the motor was not even working. After 3 painful hours and fighting to get the door back together the door opened and closed fine for about 10 attempts and then we started hearing a grinding noise and the plastic on the cable binded up and destroyed the roller inside. It cost 510 dollars. I will need to take it back and hopefully get a replacemet. Just a very poor designed motor.