I haven't tried the polishing papers but I order from FMG all the time and those are going into my cart next! I love their leveling system and these papers look like a good tool in my PC arsenal.
Your videos are ultra useful, very many thanks for making them. I only discovered them a couple of days ago, but they're setting me on the right track already. I tried some sanding earlier which wasn't a success. Now I'm off out to find the proper grit wet or dry and have another go.
I recently got some wet dry sandpaper in a traveling polymer clay box. I'll be trying them during my next batch of pc beads and pendants. Thank you for the tutorial and info.
I have Jason and it seems to work well, but I have never really done a serious side-by-side comparison to see if it truly makes a difference or if it is all in my head. Will have to do a PcT Testlab and share the results!
Thank you so much. I love the craft felt idea. Jeans just never seemed to work for me. Maybe I am just impatient. Keep up the awesome work. So glad I decided to join as a paid member. Thank you.
Thanks for all your free information! My students and I love watching. We have been trying to improve our sanding by watching this video. FireMountain sells these papers for metal clay polishing but I have also read about 3X6" micromesh sheets used for corian countertops. They all seem to use aluminum oxide crystals or silicon carbide crystals. I am wondering if you continue to use the 3M ones in the video. I am about to make a purchase.
Grace LaForge I mostly use my JoolTool now but the Micromesh ones are fantastic and so are these polishing papers. The micromesh is better and will last longer, but the polishing papers are cheaper. It really depends on what budget you have and the ease of purchasing them as to which ones you end up using.
Cindy, thanks for the video, I use a scum buster to sand my polymer clay, it's battery powered, the head is about 5" in dia. (125mm) ?, and can be submerged in water, the head has a plastic type of velcro built right in, I glue my sand paper to felt
Love the video. Thanks! I use these papers as well as polishing papers from rio grande they sell for use with metal clay. I can't wait to see the power tool option!
Hi Cindy - I’m a newbie and today have tried for the first time sanding some of my baked pieces. Your videos are so helpful! There appears to be a fine ‘film’ left on some of the pieces I’ve sanded. Any idea what this might be. Some are Premo and some Sculpey 111. After sanding I rinsed the pieces with clean water then again with a little dish soap added. Would appreciate your comment.
I have a question. Confused: you used sand paper, and than the polishing papers. So do you need to use both or does the polishing papers do the same as sand paper so all you need to use is the polishing papers and buff. I only make earrings so to sand is a good idea , but not always necessary. stud earrings I think look so much better sanded. So can I just use the polishing papers and than buff. Also I am a beginner just trying to figure out what would be the best way. Also no one says just how thick your clay should be in the final finish, I don't have a pasta machine (want one really, really bad) so by hand is my way right now. Can you help me please. I love your videos. Thank you Sandy PS: if I had a pasta machine what is the final setting to use to cut out my earrings. Sorry for all the questions.
Hi Ceclia, thank you so much for your sweet comment! Well, both products work really well. Micro-mesh has a little more 'bite' to it and seems to remove scratches a little quicker. They both result in a gorgeous shine. So depending on which product is easier/cheaper for you to purchase, I would recommend either one. When your micro-mesh wears out, try the polishing papers and see which one you prefer. Hope that helps!
Hi SonidaMarks, if your sculpture has very few flaws that you need to sand out, then start with a pretty fine grit like 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then you can paint with any good quality acrylic paint. If you need more info, go to my blog (the link is in the description). Good luck!
I still use w/d auto sandpaper But I'd Love to know how long the papers from FMG last I realize you just got them But I'm here with you guys for the long haul So maybe when they wear out you'd pop back in and let us know how well the papers from FMG lasted compared to w/d auto sandpaper thanks bunches - sherry
I usually just sand and buff my pieces, but if I do want an even higher shine I will add a finish like Renaissance Wax which is much easier and nicer to apply than varnish.
Yes I do have few tutorials and other info on buffing with a Dremel, at my blog. Use the link in the description box above and type 'Dremel' into the search box at the top of the page. There you'll find what you need.
Hi Cindy... All your videos are so helpful for me being a beginner to polymer clay with lots of doubts while working on it... Are these polishing papers reusable? If so, How long can I use a single sheet?
Thank you SO MUCH for your tutorials. I love your personality. :) I have a question - after I watched your tutorial about Micromesh I ordered them. I was wondering what is the difference between Micromesh and Polishing papers? Cecilia
Have you ever heard of/tried putting translucent polymer clay in ice water directly after baking? I've read it a couple places and wanted to get your opinion on this...
Thanks for this great video. I saw in a previous video of yours that you had Future floor polish for your beads. How do you use it and here in Toronto Future is no longer available :( Is there anything else we could use??
denim works, but i've noticed that sometimes the dye will rub off onto the clay, and i have to go back a step and resand, and buff with something else. so ive bleached some denim scraps after realizing that.
Hi jazzmonkeyification, I actually don't buy much stuff at wholesale. I find if I wait for sales and use coupons I can get close to wholesale price anyway and I don't need to purchase in large quantities.
Hello Cindy.. I started recently making jewels with polymer clay so I am kind of a beginner... I have practiced very much to make millefiori canes, to use them for the making ob beads afterwards, and I the idea of sanding and buffing seems better than putting some sort of lacquer... But I have a question.... you show here in this video how to sand a flat surface... how can I sand round beads? Some of my first ones have a quite dull color and the lacquer didn't seem to help...
Hi Nemecis313 you sand round beads the same way as flat ones only you cup the sandpaper in your hands. An easier way though is to use a rock tumbler. Watch this video, it will explain: Polymer Clay Rock Tumblers - Plastic Polishing Substrate
what do you recommend in the process of painting after baking Beige Super Sculpey polymer clay? I made a statue of the character in my picture to the left and I am worried If I sand Some of the features could be damaged. What sand paper do you recommend and what paints? Thankyou.
I make a lot of items that have small crevices and loops and round edges...I'm really not sure what I should do to tackle little spots like that without distorting the shape. I tried using multiple dremel tools but again...I'm a beginner and I'm not QUITE sure what I'm doing :]. But when I use a dremel...It's almost like it's moving too fast, even on the lowest setting, the clay is....melting? In a way? I don't know why it's doing that. Please help? :/
How can do sanding on my polymer clay applique or clay embroidery pieces. as my embroidery is very fine and I made it on raw clay and baked it. Is it safe to do sanding on baked clay embroidery pieces? if yes then which number on sandpaper should I use ?
I am a newbie and didn't realize the importance of sanding and buffing. I have some really nice jewelry pendantswere not sanded or buffed. I then used Sculpy gloss glze on them and don't like the look as you can see the brush strokes (since learned Sculpy is not the best). Can I save these pieces by sanding off the glaze and buffing?
Hi Cindy Alison (great name btw)! You shouldn't need to sand if you are adding a coat of resin, unless there is a major flaw, that will be seen under the coating, like lint, deep scratches or really deep fingerprints.
Hi Cindy~ Well I tried the polishing papers and they didn't work at all. I got more of a slight shine from the felt. What did I do wrong??? They say wet or dry and I tried both. I used cold water with a drop of dish soap too.
Hmm that is strange hazelidgal63 There are a couple of things that could of gone wrong I guess. Maybe you used the wrong side of the sandpaper? The colored side is the abrasive side... on some of the lighter colored ones it is a little hard to tell. Maybe you started with the finest grit instead of the coarsest? Start with the lowest number first. With this set, you would start with the 400, then go to the 600, 1200, 4000, 6000 and lastly 8000. And the last thing I can think of is, maybe you didn't sand long enough at each grit? Try these things and let me know if your sanding has improved. Good luck!
Hi TheKidOnMainStreet arteaga You can find polishing papers like this online easily in places like ***** and Rings & Things: Beads and Findings . As far as wet/dry sandpaper, you can find that in the automotive paint sections in your local hardware store.
Hi Cindy, i've got a question. when I sand my sculpture, the sanded part becomes white (or at least just very light). this is very obvious on my dark grey sculpture. i cant find much info on this and i dont know if this is supposed to happen? if yes, can i ask if glazing it would restore the colour? and some side information, in the desperation after destroying my 2 months of hard work on my sculpture by sanding it, i covered the sanded whiten parts with unbaked clay and after a while, the white is almost removed. it seems as if the solvent from the unbaked clay seeps back into the white parts and does something to restore the colour. this might not be the solution to my problem though, the sanded parts are still visible(ish).. but i'm worried that this might cause the strength of the sculpture to be compromised since i've reintroduce the solvent back after baking it off.. any comments? (i'm using sculpeyIII)
Hi roykwok22 whenever your piece goes lighter after sanding, it means that there is still sanding dust, trapped in the tiny scratches you created when sanding your piece. Basically it means that you haven't gone to a fine enough grit of sandpaper yet. (The finer the grit, the finer the scratches and the less dust gets trapped in the grooves. If you go fine enough, the scratches will be so fine that you can see the scratches with your eyes, and the dust will no longer get trapped in them.) Yes a glaze will often fill those scratches and hide the lighter color, but if the scratches are too deep, the glaze will just emphasize them and make them more noticeable. SO it is best to sand to the finest grit possible before adding a glaze. A good selection of wet/dry sand paper in 400/600/800/1200 grit or the selection of polishing papers I show in this video, will do a great job and you shouldn't see that white powder on your pieces anymore.
Hi getinmabellah, if you are trying to sand using your dremel, then you are probably right about it spinning too fast and melting your beads. The disks are pretty small so they are moving at a very high speed. I have only had success using a dremel for buffing and not sanding. An awesome power tool for sanding polymer clay is a JoolTool. I have a UA-cam video on buffing with a JoolTool if you want to check it out. I will be doing some sanding videos as well, as soon as I can. So stay tuned!
I was wondering if you know why I have an issue if I sand using sand paper on a metallic piece. If I sand using sand paper on a metallic piece all of the glitter and shine seems to go. The colour is still there, but it is more drab. I don't have the same issue if I just use the polishing papers. But sometimes I have a piece that is a bit rougher (or has more finger prints) and I have to sand it before moving on to the polishing papers. Thanks.
0roseable Yeah that is just the way it goes with the metallics. Making sure to run the metallic clay through the pasta machine several times before using will help align the particles and give it a prettier look when sanded but the sparkle does tend to look different after sanding.
I don't have a pasta machine, but if I get one I'll remember that tip. Thanks. Sounds like I'll just have to be more careful when working with metallics to make sure the pieces don't need much sanding/finishing. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I like the sanding sponges. 3M makes some thin ones that I cut into smaller pieces, and they're WASHABLE! I usually get the sponge wet, right from the start, and then rinse as i go along. I haven't gone up as high as you did, but the sponges can go up to several thousand grit, available at McMaster-Carr online mcmaster.com for just a few dollars. I'll have to try those sanding papers now, though...
I Cindy, the sanding cloths you are showing are for metal work and not polymer clay. That is why the grits go so high. They do not work as well as the 3M wet/dry sand papers. I worked with metal for years and these sanding cloths where the preferred cloths for a super high sheen in metal. I tried them with polymer clay and the simply do not work well. The shine I get from the 3m papers starting at 320, then 600, and last 800, is so shiny it is practically a mirror image, I need not use any higher a grit. Just thought I'd let you know. God bless!
Thanks for your input IndwellingSpirit I disagree that they do not work well with polymer clay. In fact I have found them to work much better than the wet dray sandpapers. I use them wet with a drop of dish soap and they do get a mirror finish shine. I am surprised that your results were not the same. Maybe thery were worn out from using them on the metal first?
PolymerClayTutor IndwellingSpirit I use wet/dry sandpapers with grit from 400 to 3000 and the pieces get nice and shiny, but in my experience only up to 800 grit hasn't been enough. I'd love to get my hands on those polishing papers and try them out, but we don't have them here.
Wow this an 8 year old video ....I don't even know if you will see this post...my Question is "when do know when to use polishing papers vs Sand Paper 🤔😐🙄
I haven't tried the polishing papers but I order from FMG all the time and those are going into my cart next! I love their leveling system and these papers look like a good tool in my PC arsenal.
Your videos are ultra useful, very many thanks for making them. I only discovered them a couple of days ago, but they're setting me on the right track already. I tried some sanding earlier which wasn't a success. Now I'm off out to find the proper grit wet or dry and have another go.
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.😊
Thank you for your kind reply. I'm going to give the buffing a go when I get around to trying to make a pendant.
I recently got some wet dry sandpaper in a traveling polymer clay box. I'll be trying them during my next batch of pc beads and pendants. Thank you for the tutorial and info.
I have Jason and it seems to work well, but I have never really done a serious side-by-side comparison to see if it truly makes a difference or if it is all in my head. Will have to do a PcT Testlab and share the results!
Thank you so much. I love the craft felt idea. Jeans just never seemed to work for me. Maybe I am just impatient. Keep up the awesome work. So glad I decided to join as a paid member. Thank you.
Thanks for all your free information! My students and I love watching. We have been trying to improve our sanding by watching this video. FireMountain sells these papers for metal clay polishing but I have also read about 3X6" micromesh sheets used for corian countertops. They all seem to use aluminum oxide crystals or silicon carbide crystals. I am wondering if you continue to use the 3M ones in the video. I am about to make a purchase.
Grace LaForge I mostly use my JoolTool now but the Micromesh ones are fantastic and so are these polishing papers. The micromesh is better and will last longer, but the polishing papers are cheaper. It really depends on what budget you have and the ease of purchasing them as to which ones you end up using.
Thank u for the tutorial. I've been waiting a long time to see this demonstrated.
Nice tutorial - thanks for posting.
FWIW in the UK such polishing papers are known as Micro-Mesh, which is a trade name.
Cindy, thanks for the video, I use a scum buster to sand my polymer clay, it's battery powered, the head is about 5" in dia. (125mm) ?, and can be submerged in water, the head has a plastic type of velcro built right in, I glue my sand paper to felt
Love the video. Thanks! I use these papers as well as polishing papers from rio grande they sell for use with metal clay. I can't wait to see the power tool option!
Hi Cindy - I’m a newbie and today have tried for the first time sanding some of my baked pieces. Your videos are so helpful! There appears to be a fine ‘film’ left on some of the pieces I’ve sanded. Any idea what this might be. Some are Premo and some Sculpey 111. After sanding I rinsed the pieces with clean water then again with a little dish soap added. Would appreciate your comment.
I have a question. Confused: you used sand paper, and than the polishing papers. So do you need to use both or does the polishing papers do the same as sand paper so all you need to use is the polishing papers and buff. I only make earrings so to sand is a good idea , but not always necessary. stud earrings I think look so much better sanded. So can I just use the polishing papers and than buff. Also I am a beginner just trying to figure out what would be the best way. Also no one says just how thick your clay should be in the final finish, I don't have a pasta machine (want one really, really bad) so by hand is my way right now. Can you help me please. I love your videos.
Thank you
Sandy
PS: if I had a pasta machine what is the final setting to use to cut out my earrings. Sorry for all the questions.
Thank you Cindy. Didn't know about these. Very interesting!
Hi Ceclia, thank you so much for your sweet comment! Well, both products work really well. Micro-mesh has a little more 'bite' to it and seems to remove scratches a little quicker. They both result in a gorgeous shine. So depending on which product is easier/cheaper for you to purchase, I would recommend either one. When your micro-mesh wears out, try the polishing papers and see which one you prefer. Hope that helps!
Hi SonidaMarks, if your sculpture has very few flaws that you need to sand out, then start with a pretty fine grit like 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then you can paint with any good quality acrylic paint. If you need more info, go to my blog (the link is in the description). Good luck!
I still use w/d auto sandpaper
But I'd Love to know how long the papers from FMG last
I realize you just got them But I'm here with you guys for the long haul
So maybe when they wear out you'd pop back in and let us know how well the papers from FMG lasted compared to w/d auto sandpaper
thanks bunches - sherry
Thank you. Nice video series. Will watch more.
will those papers polish acrylic or plastic? can they remove fine scratches from pastic surface?
I usually just sand and buff my pieces, but if I do want an even higher shine I will add a finish like Renaissance Wax which is much easier and nicer to apply than varnish.
Yes I do have few tutorials and other info on buffing with a Dremel, at my blog. Use the link in the description box above and type 'Dremel' into the search box at the top of the page. There you'll find what you need.
Drexel
Hi Cindy... All your videos are so helpful for me being a beginner to polymer clay with lots of doubts while working on it... Are these polishing papers reusable? If so, How long can I use a single sheet?
I wonder if one can cut them into circles and somehow attach them to a dremel bit.
Thank you SO MUCH for your tutorials. I love your personality. :)
I have a question - after I watched your tutorial about Micromesh I ordered them. I was wondering what is the difference between Micromesh and Polishing papers?
Cecilia
I'm also wondering what are the best materials to use to hand buff polymer clay?
Would you mind showing a piece with renaissance wax compared with varnish in one of your tutorials. Thanks.
Have you ever heard of/tried putting translucent polymer clay in ice water directly after baking? I've read it a couple places and wanted to get your opinion on this...
Amazing! Would you still put a type of varnish on it?
Thanks for this great video. I saw in a previous video of yours that you had Future floor polish for your beads. How do you use it and here in Toronto Future is no longer available :( Is there anything else we could use??
denim works, but i've noticed that sometimes the dye will rub off onto the clay, and i have to go back a step and resand, and buff with something else. so ive bleached some denim scraps after realizing that.
Hi jazzmonkeyification, I actually don't buy much stuff at wholesale. I find if I wait for sales and use coupons I can get close to wholesale price anyway and I don't need to purchase in large quantities.
Hello Cindy.. I started recently making jewels with polymer clay so I am kind of a beginner... I have practiced very much to make millefiori canes, to use them for the making ob beads afterwards, and I the idea of sanding and buffing seems better than putting some sort of lacquer... But I have a question.... you show here in this video how to sand a flat surface... how can I sand round beads? Some of my first ones have a quite dull color and the lacquer didn't seem to help...
Hi Nemecis313 you sand round beads the same way as flat ones only you cup the sandpaper in your hands. An easier way though is to use a rock tumbler. Watch this video, it will explain: Polymer Clay Rock Tumblers - Plastic Polishing Substrate
where do you get all your wholesale products from? Love these vids!
I'll add that to the list of future videos jennifersklener. Thanks for the suggestion!
what do you recommend in the process of painting after baking Beige Super Sculpey polymer clay? I made a statue of the character in my picture to the left and I am worried If I sand Some of the features could be damaged. What sand paper do you recommend and what paints? Thankyou.
I make a lot of items that have small crevices and loops and round edges...I'm really not sure what I should do to tackle little spots like that without distorting the shape. I tried using multiple dremel tools but again...I'm a beginner and I'm not QUITE sure what I'm doing :]. But when I use a dremel...It's almost like it's moving too fast, even on the lowest setting, the clay is....melting? In a way? I don't know why it's doing that. Please help? :/
What did the shipping cost you? I’m in Canada too.
How can do sanding on my polymer clay applique or clay embroidery pieces. as my embroidery is very fine and I made it on raw clay and baked it.
Is it safe to do sanding on baked clay embroidery pieces? if yes then which number on sandpaper should I use ?
Great video my friend! Thanks Melodie
Do you have anything on how to buff with dremel tools?
Thank you!
I am a newbie and didn't realize the importance of sanding and buffing. I have some really nice jewelry pendantswere not sanded or buffed. I then used Sculpy gloss glze on them and don't like the look as you can see the brush strokes (since learned Sculpy is not the best). Can I save these pieces by sanding off the glaze and buffing?
Judy Bowes Hi, you can remove a bad glaze by soaking in rubbing alcohol or wiping with acetone. Then you can properly sand and buff the piece.
+PolymerClayTutor Fantastic! I love your videos; don't know what I would do without them!!!!
Wow amazing!
Glad you think so! 💖
l love your tutorials! 💛
Would you still need to sand beads if you use envirotex to coat the beads after baking? I'm trying to learn before I even start making beads.
Hi Cindy Alison (great name btw)! You shouldn't need to sand if you are adding a coat of resin, unless there is a major flaw, that will be seen under the coating, like lint, deep scratches or really deep fingerprints.
Hi Cindy~ Well I tried the polishing papers and they didn't work at all. I got more of a slight shine from the felt. What did I do wrong??? They say wet or dry and I tried both. I used cold water with a drop of dish soap too.
Hmm that is strange hazelidgal63 There are a couple of things that could of gone wrong I guess. Maybe you used the wrong side of the sandpaper? The colored side is the abrasive side... on some of the lighter colored ones it is a little hard to tell. Maybe you started with the finest grit instead of the coarsest? Start with the lowest number first. With this set, you would start with the 400, then go to the 600, 1200, 4000, 6000 and lastly 8000. And the last thing I can think of is, maybe you didn't sand long enough at each grit? Try these things and let me know if your sanding has improved. Good luck!
OK Thanks!!!
Great videos.But where can I find sandpaper.Please reply
Hi TheKidOnMainStreet arteaga You can find polishing papers like this online easily in places like ***** and Rings & Things: Beads and Findings . As far as wet/dry sandpaper, you can find that in the automotive paint sections in your local hardware store.
Hi Cindy, i've got a question. when I sand my sculpture, the sanded part becomes white (or at least just very light). this is very obvious on my dark grey sculpture. i cant find much info on this and i dont know if this is supposed to happen? if yes, can i ask if glazing it would restore the colour?
and some side information, in the desperation after destroying my 2 months of hard work on my sculpture by sanding it, i covered the sanded whiten parts with unbaked clay and after a while, the white is almost removed. it seems as if the solvent from the unbaked clay seeps back into the white parts and does something to restore the colour. this might not be the solution to my problem though, the sanded parts are still visible(ish).. but i'm worried that this might cause the strength of the sculpture to be compromised since i've reintroduce the solvent back after baking it off.. any comments? (i'm using sculpeyIII)
Hi roykwok22 whenever your piece goes lighter after sanding, it means that there is still sanding dust, trapped in the tiny scratches you created when sanding your piece. Basically it means that you haven't gone to a fine enough grit of sandpaper yet. (The finer the grit, the finer the scratches and the less dust gets trapped in the grooves. If you go fine enough, the scratches will be so fine that you can see the scratches with your eyes, and the dust will no longer get trapped in them.) Yes a glaze will often fill those scratches and hide the lighter color, but if the scratches are too deep, the glaze will just emphasize them and make them more noticeable. SO it is best to sand to the finest grit possible before adding a glaze. A good selection of wet/dry sand paper in 400/600/800/1200 grit or the selection of polishing papers I show in this video, will do a great job and you shouldn't see that white powder on your pieces anymore.
Hi getinmabellah, if you are trying to sand using your dremel, then you are probably right about it spinning too fast and melting your beads. The disks are pretty small so they are moving at a very high speed. I have only had success using a dremel for buffing and not sanding. An awesome power tool for sanding polymer clay is a JoolTool. I have a UA-cam video on buffing with a JoolTool if you want to check it out. I will be doing some sanding videos as well, as soon as I can. So stay tuned!
I was wondering if you know why I have an issue if I sand using sand paper on a metallic piece. If I sand using sand paper on a metallic piece all of the glitter and shine seems to go. The colour is still there, but it is more drab. I don't have the same issue if I just use the polishing papers. But sometimes I have a piece that is a bit rougher (or has more finger prints) and I have to sand it before moving on to the polishing papers. Thanks.
0roseable Yeah that is just the way it goes with the metallics. Making sure to run the metallic clay through the pasta machine several times before using will help align the particles and give it a prettier look when sanded but the sparkle does tend to look different after sanding.
I don't have a pasta machine, but if I get one I'll remember that tip. Thanks. Sounds like I'll just have to be more careful when working with metallics to make sure the pieces don't need much sanding/finishing. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Clearer.....not a word
Just ordered a set of the polishing papers from a Canadian company called Gesswein. I put the link in an older comment below.
That is awesome! Thanks Janine! 💖
I like the sanding sponges. 3M makes some thin ones that I cut into smaller pieces, and they're WASHABLE! I usually get the sponge wet, right from the start, and then rinse as i go along. I haven't gone up as high as you did, but the sponges can go up to several thousand grit, available at McMaster-Carr online mcmaster.com for just a few dollars. I'll have to try those sanding papers now, though...
I Cindy, the sanding cloths you are showing are for metal work and not polymer clay. That is why the grits go so high. They do not work as well as the 3M wet/dry sand papers. I worked with metal for years and these sanding cloths where the preferred cloths for a super high sheen in metal. I tried them with polymer clay and the simply do not work well. The shine I get from the 3m papers starting at 320, then 600, and last 800, is so shiny it is practically a mirror image, I need not use any higher a grit. Just thought I'd let you know. God bless!
Thanks for your input IndwellingSpirit I disagree that they do not work well with polymer clay. In fact I have found them to work much better than the wet dray sandpapers. I use them wet with a drop of dish soap and they do get a mirror finish shine. I am surprised that your results were not the same. Maybe thery were worn out from using them on the metal first?
PolymerClayTutor IndwellingSpirit I use wet/dry sandpapers with grit from 400 to 3000 and the pieces get nice and shiny, but in my experience only up to 800 grit hasn't been enough. I'd love to get my hands on those polishing papers and try them out, but we don't have them here.
awesome!
Thank you! Will do that. :)
Can I do this to my glock 22 frame?
get a dremel and #462. you're welcome!
bmxatv74 thank you
No problem!
Wow this an 8 year old video ....I don't even know if you will see this post...my Question is "when do know when to use polishing papers vs Sand Paper 🤔😐🙄
Cindy explained this at 3.30 on the video. Use the sand paper first, if your piece is quite rough/dented.