I'm a retired engineer (which I know, may not mean anything) - but just wanted to say "thanks" - an excellent video, very helpful. Gave me the courage to fix my gas oven made back in the early 1980's.
Thanks I have been Troubleshooting my Whirlpool Oven replacing parts because PEOPLE didn’t know what they were talking about until you showed the Gas valve. I turned it on and my stove is working. THANK YOU VERY MUCH CHRIS fir your help I missed cooking my meals.
Watching your video, brand new gas range stopped oven and broiler from heating. Testing everything.Ran across your video ,bled gas line at gas safety valve. And giddi up, everything started to work. I think that it was a airlock in the main gas valve. Thanks for showing, what you did. 👍👍
You're absolutely right Chris, no one but you have ever mentioned that little button/switch to check! Also, what a great idea to check the gas flow before the igniter to eliminate both the igniter and the gas valve for possible blockage. No gas going in, certainly nothing coming out! You gave me the encouragement needed to do those steps now! Great job, bro
Hey Chris I want to thank you for your video, I’m an ex appliance tech, and you are so right about this, more than once I saw this issue with the gas off which it is actually a gas regulator, but when I saw it off, I explained it to the customer and leaving just charging the customer a house call with no labor charge, thanks again for the video, and good luck with your business, have a good day.😀
I replaced my glow bars a few years ago because oven wasn't holding temperature. Today, it wouldn't light at all. This was my exact problem. Oven works now. I have no idea how the lever flipped. I just used it last night. I didn't move anything. Thank you for saving me hours. And I was ready to go to Lowe's and buy a new oven!
THANK YOU Chris! I was about to order a new igniter and get my friend to replace it (which would have been a waste of time) and I saw your video, checked the gas regulator and, sure enough, that was the problem! And just before baking holiday cookies--oh noooo! I appreciate you!
THANK YOU CHRIS! Bought 2 igniters and a mother board. Paid 35$ to talk to a 44 year ge technician and thus was my problem. I spent 2 weeks with a multi meter and wiring diagram but once I found your video I'm now about to use my 8 month old oven i spent 2k on.
This video was way WAY above my level of understanding. Unfortunately, I can see I’m gonna have to pay somebody to come out here and rip me off to fix my oven.
lmao, Im about there. Just replaced an igniter for it to fry 3 minutes into test run. Ordered a replacment and if this one shits the bed on arrival I guess its something else.
Replaced bad ignighter, tested it and worked great. Vacuumed it out all nice, Put it all together and could NOT get the ignighter to trigger the gas.....Thought mabey i damaged the new ignighter installing it.... Spent the next hour with the multimeter testing everything (While in the back of my head had a suspicion about that lil valve)....Spent the next 20 min scrolling online until I found your vid. BOOM all fixed! Thank you thank you! I've always worked on everything myself and can't tell you HOW many times simple, stupid, NO it can't be that easy, things like this that just plain get drown out online by a million vids doing the same thing by different people acting like there the only vid and only person who knows something while obviously not themselves googling it and seeing already a hundred posted vids before posting another. SWEET VIDEO! THANK YOU for taking the time to post this!!
Great video, I will check that safety switch, my burners are working, but the oven is not lighting. I just bought a new oven temperature probe. It's h8t and miss till I find the culprit. Thank you😊
Thank you! And that's why I always watch a couple of different videos on the same problem. It was the safety switch. I have a brand new gas oven, never used. The range worked, but not the oven. I guess that switch was left closed from the manufacturer. Thank you! I was getting pretty angry thinking I'd have to get a new part or return the stove.
@@chriscraft2 Nice! I might be getting mine this weekend. I was watching alot of your Datsun and other car vidoes the past couple weeks. When I searched "Gas oven wont heat up" I laughed to myself when I saw you as the top result.
Got a new used stove. Top burners worked. Oven and broiler didn't. Checked everything and thought I might need new igniters or who knows what. Turns out the hidden shut off switch was engaged. 😅 No video EVER said to check and make sure that was the problem.
Great video! This was the only one that said anything about the Safety Valve let alone the pressure switch you have. What's weird with mine is the bottom igniter lights but no gas/flame. Put it on Broil, igniter lights and I get a half of a flame and the igniter stays on. Stove top works fine.
Bro, man, you explained how the metals contract and open and close the valved! That was so cool and helpful in understanding the system and what makes it work, or what makes it fail. Watching your video could actually bring up a persons IQ! Thank you I'm writing this on Thanksgiving as I realize my oven isn't working. I Don't have the little safety valve on my 1980's model Frigidaire, but still appreciating your video. I hope it the thermostat, cause I have another one, if it's the igniter...I'm going to have to bar b que the dang turkey, and we will be eating around 10 p.m. Wish us luck. Maybe we could do turkey tomorrow and just have sides today.... Whoa, the family is in outright rebellion on that idea. Wish me luck.
Well I may have sent a stove to the graveyard prematurely last week. Wish I had this knowledge then! I’m not an appliance tech, but because of my experience I get asked to look at many things when doing repairs on rental properties. One of my property managers just picked up a bunch of houses with gas stoves, so I’m trying to educate myself.
Omg I'll be a SOB. I just watched all those videos for the last week or so. Replaced the regulator which for some reason was leaking. My thermostat, control board, and safety valve. I was fed up today about ready to throw out the door and just found your video. Thanks for the tip. Oh well I guess I should get another 9 years out of this one with new parts. 😅😂
Thanks for the video. My problem happened during a power failure and I was running off a generator. The igniter was turning on, but the valve wasn't opening. Turns out the generator was over-loaded and not putting out high enough voltage. When I turned everything off except the stove, it worked fine.
Very practical and detailed video. Thanks for sharing this information. Maybe you should start your own appliance repair business. Gotta love an everyman's video for DIY repair and troubleshooting.
I actually knew about that valve ..when it's no longer under gas pressure I think it trips itself..love your videos .. unfortunately it didn't solve my problem ..
Excellent analysis. I would like to add a little. The ignitor and safety gas valve are in series. Electrically the sizing of these, as a pair is critical in that the ignitor must be hot enough to ignite the gas and and the heating of the safety valve must be enough to open and hold open the valve. In other words a matched pair. If there is a mismatch you will have no ignition or no gas. Some manufactures have a poor match, This is more likely a problem if a UNIVERSAL ignitor is used as the resistance of the ignitor can be unpredictable.
Hello bro! I had the same problem. You are the only person in the entire world probably showed this video. My safety clip probably got knocked out when it was morning or transporting. Now it works but I am still having problems with the safety values remaining on after the oven is switched off
I'm thinking he doesn't understand why it tripped in the first place since he didn't know it even existed. I'm having the same problem and I definitely hesitate to override the safety feature, especially if it keeps tripping, you're messing with gas supply and an open flame.
No, if you can see there is two valves, one goes left and up and the other one top right. The left to top goes to your burners and your top right goes to your oven. Separate lines
Yes hi Chris I have a Frigidaire gas stove with electric motors my oven will not come on neither will the broader boiler so I changed out the igniter but it’s still not doing anything thanks for your video but can you tell me which direction the safety switch on the regular gas regulator which way it goes in any more thoughts on how I can check things I’m a dummy broad thanks, Chris
Nice work! My broiler works, but the oven "bake" burner only makes a tiny flame. I tapped on the burner and it worked normally, but on re-testing it's back to a small flame. I'm guessing something is wrong with the gas regulator.
So I have a Samsung that usually goes from cold to hot (0-400°F) in 12 minutes. Now it just stays at 175°F and doesn’t move. Is it the igniter maybe there’s a safety switch with the new or Samsung’s work? It won’t allow gas to the oven as a safety measure in the igniter? It’s a newer Samsung gas oven with the blue digital display
ours is only 3 ish years old, and for the last probably 6 months to a year the oven wont ignite unless i turn one of the burners on and let it run a few seconds, and then the oven will preheat, but i have to check it cuz sometimes ill have to do it again or the food wont continue to bake
I'm curious, did your broiler light also? I know the top burners did. My oven won't come on, but the stove top and even the broiler works. Just not the oven/baking portion. Thank you for this video. Last time we called someone who charged $200 and found that he pushed a reset button. So thank you.
Thanks Chris you were spot on!!! It was just my igniter. I did all the tests with my volt meter and you were spot on!!! Wish more videos were this spot on!!!
During a lightning storm my whirlpool gas oven got hit. I have replaced the ignitor, temp sensor and still no heat in oven. Ignitor won't light at all. The gas line is very short so getting behind stove is only possible for a leprechaun. The broil doesn't work either. Only top burners. I would greatly appreciate some advise on what my next step should be. The model # WFG114SWQ1
great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (with new igniter now and glows HOT) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
Put an amp probe on one side of the igniter and turn the oven on. If the igniter glows and draws 3 Amps your igniter is good if you’re drawing less than 3 Amps you have a bad igniter
I replace those safety valves rather often actually. Robert Shaw has a monopoly on them so no incentive to make them more robust. The igniter should read ~50-100 Ω when cold. It's resistance increases with heat, self limiting the current as it operates. Only when it's already glowing cherry hot would I expect a 300+ Ω reading. If igniter can't draw enough current then safety valve may either fail to open or shut off gas again even if flame had already been lit.
Bro helpfull video but the issue im having is i just put in a new ignitor the stove does light up for atleast 30 sec then goes out and then lights up again then the same procedure over and over oven not staying lit
You seriously just saved me $250 repairbuilt which I was gonna show the dam of an hour and just buy a new one. A flip and switch. I am so upset at this repair guy
I have a Samsung gas oven that will not control the temp at 350 or any other temp. I've replaced the igniter and the temp sensor. I've tried the calibration technique, but its more than 35 deg. off. It's kind of maddening. When I called Samsung the recommended a new stove, but this one is only 4 yrs. old!
Great video and explanation! My ignitor was broken so I replaced it but my new problem is that the fire won't stay lit on the heating element. In other words, the ignitor does it's thing, lights the element and about 1-2 seconds later the fire goes out. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
So that means I burn the safety valves out once I took the igniter out and hit the wires together to check for power. Like I do when I get ready to jump a car? That's what I get. What you might be able to do in a auto mechanic world, you cannot do at all, in the appliance tech world. Now I think I can confidently spend $115 for the safety valve. Ty. Thumbs-up
@@chriscraft2 but I hit it three times in succession. There was two Sparks on the first two and then no spark on the third one. I'm pretty sure this video has helped me. Now all I need is to spend $115 to prove it. Actually found one for $93. But that was online and I'm unsure of making that order. Ty. That is, for a writing me back. The wife asked me, did that guy write you back? I was like, "Probably not. No telling how old the video is. I didn't check." So now I checked and here you are. Thank you thank you thank you.
Saved my 87 year old mother 326.00
Ty
thank you
I'm a retired engineer (which I know, may not mean anything) - but just wanted to say "thanks" - an excellent video, very helpful. Gave me the courage to fix my gas oven made back in the early 1980's.
Thanks I have been Troubleshooting my Whirlpool Oven replacing parts because PEOPLE didn’t know what they were talking about until you showed the Gas valve. I turned it on and my stove is working.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH CHRIS fir your help I missed cooking my meals.
Watching your video, brand new gas range stopped oven and broiler from heating.
Testing everything.Ran across your video ,bled gas line at gas safety valve.
And giddi up, everything started to work.
I think that it was a airlock in the main gas valve.
Thanks for showing, what you did. 👍👍
You're absolutely right Chris, no one but you have ever mentioned that little button/switch to check! Also, what a great idea
to check the gas flow before the igniter to eliminate both the igniter and the gas valve for possible blockage. No gas going
in, certainly nothing coming out! You gave me the encouragement needed to do those steps now! Great job, bro
Hey Chris I want to thank you for your video, I’m an ex appliance tech, and you are so right about this, more than once I saw this issue with the gas off which it is actually a gas regulator, but when I saw it off, I explained it to the customer and leaving just charging the customer a house call with no labor charge, thanks again for the video, and good luck with your business, have a good day.😀
I replaced my glow bars a few years ago because oven wasn't holding temperature. Today, it wouldn't light at all. This was my exact problem. Oven works now. I have no idea how the lever flipped. I just used it last night. I didn't move anything.
Thank you for saving me hours. And I was ready to go to Lowe's and buy a new oven!
THANK YOU Chris! I was about to order a new igniter and get my friend to replace it (which would have been a waste of time) and I saw your video, checked the gas regulator and, sure enough, that was the problem! And just before baking holiday cookies--oh noooo! I appreciate you!
THANK YOU CHRIS! Bought 2 igniters and a mother board. Paid 35$ to talk to a 44 year ge technician and thus was my problem. I spent 2 weeks with a multi meter and wiring diagram but once I found your video I'm now about to use my 8 month old oven i spent 2k on.
This video was way WAY above my level of understanding. Unfortunately, I can see I’m gonna have to pay somebody to come out here and rip me off to fix my oven.
lmao, Im about there. Just replaced an igniter for it to fry 3 minutes into test run. Ordered a replacment and if this one shits the bed on arrival I guess its something else.
Did you check the saftey switch he talked about? The main point of the video was that for him it was as easy as flipping a lever
Thanks a million man this saved my a$$. I just bought a stove and thought I’d been had. The little lever was tripped. I reset it and it works great.
Though this oven is not the same as mine, the tests and reset button is all the same(ish).
Thank you my man!
Replaced bad ignighter, tested it and worked great. Vacuumed it out all nice, Put it all together and could NOT get the ignighter to trigger the gas.....Thought mabey i damaged the new ignighter installing it.... Spent the next hour with the multimeter testing everything (While in the back of my head had a suspicion about that lil valve)....Spent the next 20 min scrolling online until I found your vid. BOOM all fixed! Thank you thank you! I've always worked on everything myself and can't tell you HOW many times simple, stupid, NO it can't be that easy, things like this that just plain get drown out online by a million vids doing the same thing by different people acting like there the only vid and only person who knows something while obviously not themselves googling it and seeing already a hundred posted vids before posting another. SWEET VIDEO! THANK YOU for taking the time to post this!!
You are the man thanks. We appreciate the DIYS to help fellow DIYs save a little bit of money..
100% was my issue too. Your’s was the only video explaining that dumb switch. Thankyou
Great video, I will check that safety switch, my burners are working, but the oven is not lighting. I just bought a new oven temperature probe. It's h8t and miss till I find the culprit. Thank you😊
Thank you! And that's why I always watch a couple of different videos on the same problem. It was the safety switch. I have a brand new gas oven, never used. The range worked, but not the oven. I guess that switch was left closed from the manufacturer. Thank you! I was getting pretty angry thinking I'd have to get a new part or return the stove.
Youre awesome! Same youtuber teaching me how to fix up my Datsun just saved me a visit from a repair guy! Thanks!
getting back on the Datsun soon .. thanks
@@chriscraft2 Nice! I might be getting mine this weekend. I was watching alot of your Datsun and other car vidoes the past couple weeks. When I searched "Gas oven wont heat up" I laughed to myself when I saw you as the top result.
Got a new used stove. Top burners worked. Oven and broiler didn't. Checked everything and thought I might need new igniters or who knows what. Turns out the hidden shut off switch was engaged. 😅 No video EVER said to check and make sure that was the problem.
if there was a golden buzz like button, this video deserved it.
Great video! This was the only one that said anything about the Safety Valve let alone the pressure switch you have. What's weird with mine is the bottom igniter lights but no gas/flame. Put it on Broil, igniter lights and I get a half of a flame and the igniter stays on. Stove top works fine.
Best oven igniter troubleshooting video by far! Thanks Chris.
Awesome!!!! Good down to earth explanation of the layman's way to approach this problem. Thank you.
Bro, man, you explained how the metals contract and open and close the valved! That was so cool and helpful in understanding the system and what makes it work, or what makes it fail. Watching your video could actually bring up a persons IQ!
Thank you
I'm writing this on Thanksgiving as I realize my oven isn't working.
I Don't have the little safety valve on my 1980's model Frigidaire, but still appreciating your video.
I hope it the thermostat, cause I have another one, if it's the igniter...I'm going to have to bar b que the dang turkey, and we will be eating around 10 p.m.
Wish us luck.
Maybe we could do turkey tomorrow and just have sides today....
Whoa, the family is in outright rebellion on that idea.
Wish me luck.
Well I may have sent a stove to the graveyard prematurely last week. Wish I had this knowledge then! I’m not an appliance tech, but because of my experience I get asked to look at many things when doing repairs on rental properties. One of my property managers just picked up a bunch of houses with gas stoves, so I’m trying to educate myself.
Thanks buddy; just bought new igniter and it’s already bad - 🙏👌👍
You saved me! None of the other videos got this one right. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you, Chris!!!! This video saved me a lot of time and money. I had the same issues and it was that SWITCH!
Omg I'll be a SOB. I just watched all those videos for the last week or so. Replaced the regulator which for some reason was leaking. My thermostat, control board, and safety valve. I was fed up today about ready to throw out the door and just found your video. Thanks for the tip. Oh well I guess I should get another 9 years out of this one with new parts. 😅😂
Thanks for the video. My problem happened during a power failure and I was running off a generator. The igniter was turning on, but the valve wasn't opening. Turns out the generator was over-loaded and not putting out high enough voltage. When I turned everything off except the stove, it worked fine.
thank you very much for pointing out that little switch, flipped it and oven working again.
Thank you. The explanation at the end is gold! Thanks for taking your time and explaining!
Very practical and detailed video. Thanks for sharing this information. Maybe you should start your own appliance repair business. Gotta love an everyman's video for DIY repair and troubleshooting.
I actually knew about that valve ..when it's no longer under gas pressure I think it trips itself..love your videos .. unfortunately it didn't solve my problem ..
yes.. I had shut the valve off to move it and forgot.. literally forgot and thought it was something else
Excellent analysis. I would like to add a little. The ignitor and safety gas valve are in series. Electrically the sizing of these, as a pair is critical in that the ignitor must be hot enough to ignite the gas and and the heating of the safety valve must be enough to open and hold open the valve. In other words a matched pair. If there is a mismatch you will have no ignition or no gas. Some manufactures have a poor match, This is more likely a problem if a UNIVERSAL ignitor is used as the resistance of the ignitor can be unpredictable.
I replaced the safety valve with an OEM, had flam, oven heated to 350 then cut out, any thoughts?
Hello bro! I had the same problem. You are the only person in the entire world probably showed this video. My safety clip probably got knocked out when it was morning or transporting. Now it works but I am still having problems with the safety values remaining on after the oven is switched off
I'm thinking he doesn't understand why it tripped in the first place since he didn't know it even existed. I'm having the same problem and I definitely hesitate to override the safety feature, especially if it keeps tripping, you're messing with gas supply and an open flame.
Awesome video. Very clean and concise! Straight to the point. Thanks man!!
Y our right on man, I’m learning from you! No bullshit straight facts , giving me free lessons on the range
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I wish there were more people in the world like you!
Good job! Mr. Boat Guy
That did it!! Thanks brother!! I never knew that switch existed and other videos barely mentioned it.
question: The burners were working BEFORE you found the safety valve switch. Wouldn't the safety valve shut off gas to the entire stove?
According to a video I just watched the oven may not work but stove did ,😵💫 maybe heating element maybe regulator idk 😶
No, if you can see there is two valves, one goes left and up and the other one top right. The left to top goes to your burners and your top right goes to your oven. Separate lines
Dude....MORE VIDEOS LIKE YOU!!!! The world would be a better place!
I'm always terrified I'll blow the house up
Thank you so much! Got my oven working again!
Thank you for this video and explanation!
Yes hi Chris I have a Frigidaire gas stove with electric motors my oven will not come on neither will the broader boiler so I changed out the igniter but it’s still not doing anything thanks for your video but can you tell me which direction the safety switch on the regular gas regulator which way it goes in any more thoughts on how I can check things I’m a dummy broad thanks, Chris
Thank you for the video it's very detailed and instructional I'm going to check mine now because my oven is doing the same thing
Nice work! My broiler works, but the oven "bake" burner only makes a tiny flame. I tapped on the burner and it worked normally, but on re-testing it's back to a small flame. I'm guessing something is wrong with the gas regulator.
Tek you are doing great esplanade good job on your video and your great work
So I have a Samsung that usually goes from cold to hot (0-400°F) in 12 minutes. Now it just stays at 175°F and doesn’t move. Is it the igniter maybe there’s a safety switch with the new or Samsung’s work? It won’t allow gas to the oven as a safety measure in the igniter? It’s a newer Samsung gas oven with the blue digital display
ours is only 3 ish years old, and for the last probably 6 months to a year the oven wont ignite unless i turn one of the burners on and let it run a few seconds, and then the oven will preheat, but i have to check it cuz sometimes ill have to do it again or the food wont continue to bake
YOU ROCK! Thank you from New York!
Thank you! Excellent video!
A new subscriber thank you Chris
I'm curious, did your broiler light also? I know the top burners did. My oven won't come on, but the stove top and even the broiler works. Just not the oven/baking portion. Thank you for this video. Last time we called someone who charged $200 and found that he pushed a reset button. So thank you.
Mine is doing the same burners and broiler work. No oven. What did you find?
Same problem I’m having with my gas stove
@@bmorecareful436 I had to replace the igniter in mine. One of the connections had become corroded and the wire pulled out of it. It works fine now.
Thanks Chris you were spot on!!! It was just my igniter. I did all the tests with my volt meter and you were spot on!!! Wish more videos were this spot on!!!
Same happened with me 😂Just reset and there you go.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful and I agree, some videos are terrible.
During a lightning storm my whirlpool gas oven got hit. I have replaced the ignitor, temp sensor and still no heat in oven. Ignitor won't light at all. The gas line is very short so getting behind stove is only possible for a leprechaun.
The broil doesn't work either. Only top burners. I would greatly appreciate some advise on what my next step should be. The model # WFG114SWQ1
great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (with new igniter now and glows HOT) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
Hey there, how much would you charge a customer to replace a old igniter for a oven
Thankyou for the helpful video!
Fantastic video.
Put an amp probe on one side of the igniter and turn the oven on. If the igniter glows and draws 3 Amps your igniter is good if you’re drawing less than 3 Amps you have a bad igniter
Good video. That is why when the range broke, I would rather buy a new one
THANK YOU THAN YOU! You the man blessings to you for this video
Brother you knocked it oyt of the park with that advice mine was stuff closed thiugh it showed open. I closed and reopened and click. Thx
The owners aren't really fixing anything in the house so I figured I could figure out what's going on
Great DIY video
Any ideas why it tripped originally? Are you worried about overriding the safety feature without understanding why it tripped in the first place?
I unhooked it to move it
Thank you but what do we do if our oven doesn’t have a visible switch?
I replace those safety valves rather often actually. Robert Shaw has a monopoly on them so no incentive to make them more robust.
The igniter should read ~50-100 Ω when cold. It's resistance increases with heat, self limiting the current as it operates. Only when it's already glowing cherry hot would I expect a 300+ Ω reading. If igniter can't draw enough current then safety valve may either fail to open or shut off gas again even if flame had already been lit.
Great video, loved your style of explaining. Just one question, what was the white residue on the cook surface??
probably Sheetrock from remodel
Jizz
What did you do to solve the problem, which part did you change? I have that problem. The bottom part turns on and off.
Bro helpfull video but the issue im having is i just put in a new ignitor the stove does light up for atleast 30 sec then goes out and then lights up again then the same procedure over and over oven not staying lit
Thanks for the info.
Your the man awesome works like a charm
How was the stove top working with that switch in the off position?
Would a power outage flip the safety?
You seriously just saved me $250 repairbuilt which I was gonna show the dam of an hour and just buy a new one. A flip and switch.
I am so upset at this repair guy
I have a Samsung gas oven that will not control the temp at 350 or any other temp. I've replaced the igniter and the temp sensor. I've tried the calibration technique, but its more than 35 deg. off. It's kind of maddening. When I called Samsung the recommended a new stove, but this one is only 4 yrs. old!
Great video and explanation! My ignitor was broken so I replaced it but my new problem is that the fire won't stay lit on the heating element. In other words, the ignitor does it's thing, lights the element and about 1-2 seconds later the fire goes out. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I don’t know but used appliance places will usually have a service guy that can come to your house and fix it for a decent price..
That was my damn problem. Thank you so much
Great video! Thank you!
Hi on my samsung stove I'm getting 3.1a on the igniters i tested the ohms on the gas valve and it reads 1.1 omhs is the valve bad?
Thank you Dude!🎉
excellent, thanks!
Thank you im going to check that as soon as my wife is dont with the cook top
you’re my savior
Thank you for your help
Do all gas ovens have that switch?
Do you have any suggestions as to what is happening? I did all the test and everything checks out
So that means I burn the safety valves out once I took the igniter out and hit the wires together to check for power. Like I do when I get ready to jump a car? That's what I get. What you might be able to do in a auto mechanic world, you cannot do at all, in the appliance tech world. Now I think I can confidently spend $115 for the safety valve. Ty. Thumbs-up
I don’t think that just touching them together for a second will burn it out
@@chriscraft2 but I hit it three times in succession. There was two Sparks on the first two and then no spark on the third one. I'm pretty sure this video has helped me. Now all I need is to spend $115 to prove it. Actually found one for $93. But that was online and I'm unsure of making that order. Ty. That is, for a writing me back. The wife asked me, did that guy write you back? I was like, "Probably not. No telling how old the video is. I didn't check." So now I checked and here you are. Thank you thank you thank you.
My Samsung electric stove has a code of CDO how do I fix it?
Omg thank you!!!
Thanks dude.
Awesome you Hit the Button on the Gas oven Right , Save lots of Folks much energy , time not to say Mucho Money over a simple issue !!!
6:29 “Neva neva neva, can’t forget the bev”
Do I unplug it to turn on the switch?
Oh my goodness thank you
If there isn't any gas going through what then?
Good job