Never seizes to amaze me how the most knowledgeable guys out there on YT aren’t necessarily the guys with 100K + subscribers. Many of those guys use smoke and mirrors, fancy video editing, and highfalutin words to sound like they know what’s up. There’s room for everybody so I guess it’s ok. But to the guys that know a thing or two about a thing or two - guys like you - i.e. people that speak from experience, have built and own hard-core rigs, and have been there/done that and have the tee shirt and the shot glass to back it all up, that’s where I prefer to get my advice from. Good job bro! Been watching your Sand Hollow, Ridgecrest and other vids - you and your friends play for keeps!
I mostly agree about the cut & weld shaves. I don't like the idea of turning down a ring gear for various reasons, including losing strength from material removal; losing strength from the heat of cutting it; and not being able to easily replace it if a R&P is blown during a trip. I also don't like the strength loss in the housing from cutting so much of the casting away, then patching it with a different material. The clearance gained vs a "13 bolt" cover shave is minimal. I like the idea of the 13 bolt shaves. They provide the largest clearance gain vs a stock housing and the only cost is a new cover- which most off roaders will be replacing anyway. Some strength is lost from thinning the bottom of the housing, but most of that comes from removing the fins, which doesn't affect strength, and the amount cut from the main casting still leaves a fairly thick piece of casting at the bottom. It would reduce weight carrying ability, but most of these swaps are into Jeeps and other light uses, rather than carrying a truck bed camper or supporting a gooseneck trailer or dump body. The 13 bolt shave seems like the perfect compromise. The alternative to a cheap and easy 13 bolt shave would be to go up 2-3" on tire size to gain the same clearance. This might be easy for a buggy, but most 4x4s will require additional lift, possibly suspension changes, and/or body mods. That is a lot of work and expense to keep from cutting an inch and a half off the bottom of the diff. Other axles could be used, such as a D60, but a 60 is weaker than even a 13 bolt shaved 14 bolt. The 14 bolt has several advantages over a 60 for most uses, and the 60 doesn't gain that much clearance.
I took the flapper disk on my 4" grinder to the bottom of mine to slightly round off the sharp edges but other than that, I left it alone contrary to what all my buddies told me to do. Mine doesn't leak and I don't feel it gets caught up much on anything.
You seem to be one of the most legit guys on the internet when it comes to advice on crawling. I recently bought a semi built dana 60 and a sterling 10.5 out of a 2006 super duty with 39 inch tires and rims. I am now looking for a chassis to put them under. What do you recommend? I currently have a shitbox XJ and have run all the hard trails in Big Bear and the easy stuff at Choke Cherry in Farmington my home trails... So steep inclines are more common than big ass boulders like in Socal/AZ. I was thinking street legal might be nice for Moab as I go there frequently... Can't have the best of everything right?
At 3:30, I welcome you to come “run around the woods” w us East coast guys here in East Tennessee and rock crawl w us then compare it to crawling there.
I have been to Windrock, Rausche Creek, Disney, and several other spots back east. Fun, but a very different type of wheeling in those "parks". Nothing like the huge open OHV areas out west, where you can attempt to make a trail out of anything.
You can install a pinion guard on the 14 bolt. The housing is as tough as they come, so it doesn't need a skid. Put on a pinion guard, shave off the lip, and send it!
Haha I wonder if the 14bolt hate has spilled over into the mall crawler crowd, because you see a LOT of big money Dana 60 rear axles in JKs and JLs. Heavy cover and smoothing out the plow lip is fine. People will find something to spend money on.
Most of them are "Overlanders" now. So its all about showing off brand names and labels. The diff needs to have "CURRIE" or "DYNATRAC" in big letters to be cool with the roof-top tent and 4K pounds of useless crap bolted on. Also, none of them know how to weld or turn a wrench, so its whatever 4Wheel Parts can bolt on for them.
I like to cut the lip off up to the bottom bolt and smooth the shit out of the bottom. I'm on 39.5" tires and drag it here and there. I wheel Moab and western Colorado. Screw the shave kits.
Never seizes to amaze me how the most knowledgeable guys out there on YT aren’t necessarily the guys with 100K + subscribers. Many of those guys use smoke and mirrors, fancy video editing, and highfalutin words to sound like they know what’s up. There’s room for everybody so I guess it’s ok. But to the guys that know a thing or two about a thing or two - guys like you - i.e. people that speak from experience, have built and own hard-core rigs, and have been there/done that and have the tee shirt and the shot glass to back it all up, that’s where I prefer to get my advice from. Good job bro! Been watching your Sand Hollow, Ridgecrest and other vids - you and your friends play for keeps!
I mostly agree about the cut & weld shaves. I don't like the idea of turning down a ring gear for various reasons, including losing strength from material removal; losing strength from the heat of cutting it; and not being able to easily replace it if a R&P is blown during a trip. I also don't like the strength loss in the housing from cutting so much of the casting away, then patching it with a different material. The clearance gained vs a "13 bolt" cover shave is minimal.
I like the idea of the 13 bolt shaves. They provide the largest clearance gain vs a stock housing and the only cost is a new cover- which most off roaders will be replacing anyway. Some strength is lost from thinning the bottom of the housing, but most of that comes from removing the fins, which doesn't affect strength, and the amount cut from the main casting still leaves a fairly thick piece of casting at the bottom. It would reduce weight carrying ability, but most of these swaps are into Jeeps and other light uses, rather than carrying a truck bed camper or supporting a gooseneck trailer or dump body. The 13 bolt shave seems like the perfect compromise.
The alternative to a cheap and easy 13 bolt shave would be to go up 2-3" on tire size to gain the same clearance. This might be easy for a buggy, but most 4x4s will require additional lift, possibly suspension changes, and/or body mods. That is a lot of work and expense to keep from cutting an inch and a half off the bottom of the diff.
Other axles could be used, such as a D60, but a 60 is weaker than even a 13 bolt shaved 14 bolt. The 14 bolt has several advantages over a 60 for most uses, and the 60 doesn't gain that much clearance.
I've never understood the purpose of the shave when you are putting bigger tires on. It's not like people are putting tons on to run 35s or even 37s.
Agreed! That is one nice shiny new 14 bolt!
I took the flapper disk on my 4" grinder to the bottom of mine to slightly round off the sharp edges but other than that, I left it alone contrary to what all my buddies told me to do. Mine doesn't leak and I don't feel it gets caught up much on anything.
Yep; take the lip off and rock out!
You seem to be one of the most legit guys on the internet when it comes to advice on crawling. I recently bought a semi built dana 60 and a sterling 10.5 out of a 2006 super duty with 39 inch tires and rims. I am now looking for a chassis to put them under. What do you recommend? I currently have a shitbox XJ and have run all the hard trails in Big Bear and the easy stuff at Choke Cherry in Farmington my home trails... So steep inclines are more common than big ass boulders like in Socal/AZ. I was thinking street legal might be nice for Moab as I go there frequently... Can't have the best of everything right?
At 3:30, I welcome you to come “run around the woods” w us East coast guys here in East Tennessee and rock crawl w us then compare it to crawling there.
I have been to Windrock, Rausche Creek, Disney, and several other spots back east. Fun, but a very different type of wheeling in those "parks". Nothing like the huge open OHV areas out west, where you can attempt to make a trail out of anything.
Nice to see some common sense.
Just a question is there a rear skid plate bolt on for a 14 bolt I have one on my rear 44 and helps me slid right over rocks and obstacles
You can install a pinion guard on the 14 bolt. The housing is as tough as they come, so it doesn't need a skid. Put on a pinion guard, shave off the lip, and send it!
Haha I wonder if the 14bolt hate has spilled over into the mall crawler crowd, because you see a LOT of big money Dana 60 rear axles in JKs and JLs.
Heavy cover and smoothing out the plow lip is fine. People will find something to spend money on.
Most of them are "Overlanders" now. So its all about showing off brand names and labels. The diff needs to have "CURRIE" or "DYNATRAC" in big letters to be cool with the roof-top tent and 4K pounds of useless crap bolted on. Also, none of them know how to weld or turn a wrench, so its whatever 4Wheel Parts can bolt on for them.
I like to cut the lip off up to the bottom bolt and smooth the shit out of the bottom. I'm on 39.5" tires and drag it here and there. I wheel Moab and western Colorado. Screw the shave kits.
Makes too much sense to be true. 😉
14 bolts are thiccc
100% Your concerned about clearance, get bigger tires. Can't get bigger tires, go get your precious dana then. Stop Ruining Axles.
I drag my 14 bolt on everything. Only because I’m a poor driver though lol 😂
legit!
LMAO i hate forums so much
Isn't a 14 bolt stronger than a 60 anyway!