Photo paper is expensive, I use the thicker covers off glossy magazines, and leaflets that come through the letterbox, works just as well and is free. Also I used to be a fix laser printers, the laser actually draws the image onto a photo conductive drum built into the toner cartridge from there it is transfered onto the paper by electrostatic charge, then fused onto the paper by heated rollers of belts. Thanks for an informative video.
toner works that the paper is being electrically charged, then the laser shoots toner particles on the role, so they get decharged ( normally they are,positive and paper negative, laser makes a particle neutrral), then it rolls over the paper, charged toner goes to paper and then heat bakes it in
Hey there and thanks for your comment. Actually if you want the details of how a toner printer works it is as follows: The Primary Charge Roller, or the PCR, will charge the OPC drum with a negative charge. Then the laser will charge the roller (not shoot toner) with a positive charge in areas to form the image on the OPC drum. There is a hopper of toner that has a device to stir the toner in it and the toner adder roller collects the toner and distributes it to the developer roller where the doctor blade levels it all out. The toner will get a negative charge as it moves from one component to the next. This will attract the toner to the positively charged portions of the OPC drum. Next the toner on the OPC drum will be transferred to the paper and the paper will finally pass through the fusing assembly where the toner is fused to the paper via the heated rollers in the fusing assembly. Thanks again for your comment.
Pro-tip - if you warm up the etchant it will work much faster. I keep etchant in plastic airtight container from Walmart, and to warm it up I put the container on a hot water bath (it's just larger container with hot water). This way etching time drops to just 3-5 minutes.
How you make sure that your printing is mm precise so when you put in a part with fixed length and width of wiring it fits well? Also how do you dispose of the etching acid?
It depends on the through hole stuff. this example is just showing how it works. But you are correct that if there were through hole parts that needed soldered on the back side I would need to remove the copper. How to do this is by taking packing tape and placing it over the already etched side to protect it and then placing it back in the etchant to remove the back copper.
Nice Video 👍👍👍 a little tip when using etchant , the concentration of the acid is decreased as it reacts with the metal , higher concentration == fast etching , so , don't add used acid to new acid as this decreases the concentration as well , to do that without wasting the acid , add just a little enough amount of acid this works well for me .
actually if you would take something like a sponge and rub the copper with that sponge in the Feric chloride it will etch much faster. .and if you heat that etchant you can get to something like 2-3 minutes
hi,from knowledge do you know what kind of laser printer works(some say that it needs to be color photographic,it make sense to be photographic hence the glossy paper that would get stuck in an non photo but way color???)
It seems to me that any laser printer will work. I have not tried a color laser printer but the theory should be the same since it is the tonor is what you want. However, an inkjet will not work since it is ink.
+Justin Verrall (Through The Process) Yes because you are using the toner as the etch resist. You cannot transfer ink in the same way. Thanks for the question.
how long after printing could you go b4 it could no longer b transferred mainly would it still work if you printed the design and then did the transfer 30 minutes to an hour later?
Yes it should still work. That is the beauty of toner. You just have to heat it back up to transfer it. Now you may need to heat it longer with your iron since the page would be cooled down by then but it should still work.
this might sound ghetto or whatever but i just dont have a laser printer yet. do you know of any place that would let me bring paper and they print my design on to that paper for me or let me printer it, like would the ups store do that?
I usually do not go any smaller than 6 -12mil depending. Some times you just have to play around with it. If I get it too close I then sometimes have to use an xacto knife and cut the trace out.
+The Plaid Gamer Well I am not a chemical guy so I don't know what else could dissolve the toner but I am sure there are other things that could I just don't know them and as readily available as acetone is where I live it is not a problem and it is cheap.
lipsa pauza Well I was doing this very fast so I did not put the iron on it long enough and also I recommend that when you do this after you have done the toner transfer before you etch you should inspect for place where the toner did not stick and if you see those places a permanent sharpie marker works great for filling in those gaps. Also take note that this is no match for a professionally made board. This will only get you by with simple WIDE spaced trace and pad layouts and is not recommended for any high temp/humidity situations since there is no mask and you cannot guarantee uniform etching when doing this method.
Photo paper is expensive, I use the thicker covers off glossy magazines, and leaflets that come through the letterbox, works just as well and is free. Also I used to be a fix laser printers, the laser actually draws the image onto a photo conductive drum built into the toner cartridge from there it is transfered onto the paper by electrostatic charge, then fused onto the paper by heated rollers of belts. Thanks for an informative video.
Fantastic video for newbies! Definitely pointing people to this video in the future!
+mrpopolocrois Hey there thanks for the support. I am very glad you found this usefull
toner works that the paper is being electrically charged, then the laser shoots toner particles on the role, so they get decharged ( normally they are,positive and paper negative, laser makes a particle neutrral), then it rolls over the paper, charged toner goes to paper and then heat bakes it in
Hey there and thanks for your comment. Actually if you want the details of how a toner printer works it is as follows:
The Primary Charge Roller, or the PCR, will charge the OPC drum with a negative charge. Then the laser will charge the roller (not shoot toner) with a positive charge in areas to form the image on the OPC drum.
There is a hopper of toner that has a device to stir the toner in it and the toner adder roller collects the toner and distributes it to the developer roller where the doctor blade levels it all out. The toner will get a negative charge as it moves from one component to the next. This will attract the toner to the positively charged portions of the OPC drum.
Next the toner on the OPC drum will be transferred to the paper and the paper will finally pass through the fusing assembly where the toner is fused to the paper via the heated rollers in the fusing assembly.
Thanks again for your comment.
Pro-tip - if you warm up the etchant it will work much faster. I keep etchant in plastic airtight container from Walmart, and to warm it up I put the container on a hot water bath (it's just larger container with hot water). This way etching time drops to just 3-5 minutes.
+asmi06 Wow awesome tip. I will definitely try this out. Thank you very much for this great tip.
Hmm... so you screen print labels on pcbs if you want them labeled. I'm thinking screen printing a resist onto it. Then you can develop them.
How you make sure that your printing is mm precise so when you put in a part with fixed length and width of wiring it fits well? Also how do you dispose of the etching acid?
Maybe your camera has a stabilised sensor / lens. You should turn that off if it's mounted on a tripod.
Is the copper left on the backside of that board not going to create shorts ?
It depends on the through hole stuff. this example is just showing how it works. But you are correct that if there were through hole parts that needed soldered on the back side I would need to remove the copper. How to do this is by taking packing tape and placing it over the already etched side to protect it and then placing it back in the etchant to remove the back copper.
Nice Video 👍👍👍
a little tip when using etchant , the concentration of the acid is decreased as it reacts with the metal , higher concentration == fast etching ,
so , don't add used acid to new acid as this decreases the concentration as well , to do that without wasting the acid , add just a little enough amount of acid
this works well for me .
Great tip. You are absolutely right. Thanks.
what kind of printer did you use?
actually if you would take something like a sponge and rub the copper with that sponge in the Feric chloride it will etch much faster. .and if you heat that etchant you can get to something like 2-3 minutes
hi,from knowledge do you know what kind of laser printer works(some say that it needs to be color photographic,it make sense to be photographic hence the glossy paper that would get stuck in an non photo but way color???)
It seems to me that any laser printer will work. I have not tried a color laser printer but the theory should be the same since it is the tonor is what you want. However, an inkjet will not work since it is ink.
Do you have to use a laser printer for making pcb boards?
+Justin Verrall (Through The Process) Yes because you are using the toner as the etch resist. You cannot transfer ink in the same way. Thanks for the question.
Fuck..... Thank you for the help though
how long after printing could you go b4 it could no longer b transferred mainly would it still work if you printed the design and then did the transfer 30 minutes to an hour later?
Yes it should still work. That is the beauty of toner. You just have to heat it back up to transfer it. Now you may need to heat it longer with your iron since the page would be cooled down by then but it should still work.
this might sound ghetto or whatever but i just dont have a laser printer yet. do you know of any place that would let me bring paper and they print my design on to that paper for me or let me printer it, like would the ups store do that?
If you are in the US Kinko's or a library would work. Just PDF your design and put it on a flash drive.
im in the US ya know i always forget about the library but idk if we have a klinkos where i live (small town)
What track thickness , clearance this paper toner transfer method can do ?
I usually do not go any smaller than 6 -12mil depending. Some times you just have to play around with it. If I get it too close I then sometimes have to use an xacto knife and cut the trace out.
Thank You
why dont u use aceton to transfer toner to copper from page???
+Kunjan Patel It has been my experience that the Acetone will dissolve the toner and not transfer it.
Can I use Canon Pixma G2012 printer
It has to be a laser printer. If it is laser than it will work.
Nice video. Thanks
You are welcome. I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Do you really need acetone?
+The Plaid Gamer Well I am not a chemical guy so I don't know what else could dissolve the toner but I am sure there are other things that could I just don't know them and as readily available as acetone is where I live it is not a problem and it is cheap.
lacquer thinner will also dissolve the toner just a little slower.
Need help on an EE problem? PinPoint: 'Circuit Solver' by Phasor Systems on Google Play.
How to use a wood lathe
what is ur circuit app?!
are you wanting to know what application I used to do the layout? If so it is EagleCAD. you can also use kiCAD too for linux.
Looks like your toner transfer method fail. You have some incomplete traces. You must consider another type of paper, or another printer.
lipsa pauza Well I was doing this very fast so I did not put the iron on it long enough and also I recommend that when you do this after you have done the toner transfer before you etch you should inspect for place where the toner did not stick and if you see those places a permanent sharpie marker works great for filling in those gaps. Also take note that this is no match for a professionally made board. This will only get you by with simple WIDE spaced trace and pad layouts and is not recommended for any high temp/humidity situations since there is no mask and you cannot guarantee uniform etching when doing this method.
misperry photo paper did you use? I used kodak photo paper and it did not work worth a shit.
Well that sucks! I used Walgreen's brand that was the cheapest you can get. The cheaper the better
lol ok thanks
+lipsa pauza use pcb transfer papper its like 15 bucks for 100 sheets
toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much talking for a little job
nice job but too much talkin'.
Acetone really isn't that dangerous.
+Colin Alston true not like MEK but fate favors the prepared. LOL
Yeah don't use latex gloves they will melt use nitrile gloves
+linuxmintman Yes this is a good point. The gloves I am wearing are not latex.
So Startex Acetone then? Lol
That's right...only the best ingredients for my viewers. Lol
Worsh
LOL yes I have some hillbilly blood in my vanes lol