Fantastic attention to detail. Learned quite a few things, I never knew. Wish i could afford to build a hot rod engine, for my Greenbrier, like this. thanks for sharing. JT: Orlando, FLA
Very interesting since I'm building my second Corvair engine at this time. A stock 110 that I hope will run strong for around 70 thousand miles. Thanks for filming and explaining your process!
Thank you for the kind words! I am getting ready to post 2 more videos, one on making water Tee's for putting a water cooled turbo on an Ecotec, and the other for making new injector cups to locate the fuel injectors a little higher on the Ecotec for use with a different fuel rail. It will be probably another week or two before I set the deck height on the Corvair, then a bit to edit the video so veiwers are not bored to death!
Don't understand how doing the job right is fantasyland. Sounds like you're one of those guys who makes things work. Yes you can skip all sorts of steps and just hack something together and have it work. Clearly you never had to build engines to run in a class and be competative. When I build a performance motor, it is blue priinted. When I build a stocker, ALL clearances and sizes are checked. The reality is that I know my motors are right. Nothing wrong with that.
I have a 1963 corvair and my engine is overheating I have tried everything from cleaning the engine fins and underneath the shroud could it be the in valves are not adjusted correctly? I have also cleaned the oil cooler.
You say overheating, what is your head temp? Where are you picking up the temp? How do you know it is too high? Valves will not make it over heat. Late timing will make it run warmer, as will lean, to a point. Click "about" abve and send me a PM with details and I will help you any way I can.
Do you still have the air deflection pan in place if not the fan can't pull enough air to cool the cylinders effectively. The fan works as a vacuum to pull air .
The paint is GE Gliptal paint. Originally made by GE for electric motor armatures. You can get it from Eastwood.com $50 for a 12 oz spray can or $50 for a 1 quart can, guess how I buy it! LOL! Will be a little while before I post more videos, shop is busy and my son's wedding is coming up! Do have some more planned so stay tuned!
Is this a corvair or Porsche? I rebuilt my corvair engine in 1985 and didn't do anything special and it ran quite well. Only problem was it wouldn't do 80 mph off a cliff.
Sorry for the 2 year late reply, day job is building real deal race motors, so time is VERY limited. It is a Corvair. Lots of guys do engine work with varying levels of effort. I know of parts stores that "build" engines, never check clearances or ring end gap, etc. The engines "run" how long, and how efficient they are and how much oil they use is another story. There is a BIG difference between Building and engine and Assembling one. I build engines. I have a basically stock 110 engine in my 1962 Converitble just upped the compression to 10:1 and put in an isky 260 cam (210 @ .050 110 LSA), the car has been up to 90 and still accelerating, just did not want to do more than that on freeway. It does have a nice EFI system and distributorless ignition. Also established proper rocker arm geometry
Thought I sent a PM to you on this, but don't see it in my sent folder, sorry about that. IT is GE (general ecletric) Glyptal paint. You can get it at Eastwood.com It is great with heat and oil, was originally made as an armature paint.
0:04 I'm thinking that if you mill out the oil passages in the bearings, the oil pressure in the bearings is going to drop, and the oil flow across the bearing surfaces will be lessened. I wouldn't try to outsmart the 1960s GM engineers---who were smart and educated and experienced and paid and working full time to design a good engine. Or am I wrong?
I am milling out the area BEHIND the bearing, making less resistance to flow TO the bearings. This will NOT reduce oil pressure. This will increase the supply of oil available to the bearings. Also remember that manufacturers build products for the average of the target demographic, they do NOT do the best job they can. These cars were originally designed as low power grocery getters and work just fine for that. Start modifying and you need to make improvements. Just like I changed the rod ratio by a good bit to reduce p Frictional power losses
Funny I was lead engine builder for Martin Motorsports, not Martin Enginesports. They are called motorcars, and motor boats, not engine. Engine/motor is a matter of semantics. But you are not alone in making that distinction.
I rebuilt dozens of corvairs back in the 60's. Your living in fantasyland. The motor is great just as it was built. Drive it, and forget all this prep stuff. Just tank it out, mike the crank, slap in the bearings, lay in the crank and cam. and seal it up. A girl can do it!
Fantastic attention to detail. Learned quite a few things, I never knew. Wish i could afford to build a hot rod engine, for my Greenbrier, like this.
thanks for sharing.
JT: Orlando, FLA
Thank you! If you ever need any info please feel free to email me at grasshutperformance@gmail.com
Very interesting since I'm building my second Corvair engine at this time. A stock 110 that I hope will run strong for around 70 thousand miles. Thanks for filming and explaining your process!
Mine has made it to 110,700 miles, only problem is a leaky oil pan but I'm getting an otto oil pan to put on it
I wish I could afford to have my engine rebuilt by you
@SCBianchi Thank you for your kind words, you made my day!
Tom
Amazing detail!
Thank you for the kind words! I am getting ready to post 2 more videos, one on making water Tee's for putting a water cooled turbo on an Ecotec, and the other for making new injector cups to locate the fuel injectors a little higher on the Ecotec for use with a different fuel rail. It will be probably another week or two before I set the deck height on the Corvair, then a bit to edit the video so veiwers are not bored to death!
Thanks for this!
These are TV show quality video. -TM
Where did you get the Teflon coating and how did you spray it?
Don't understand how doing the job right is fantasyland. Sounds like you're one of those guys who makes things work. Yes you can skip all sorts of steps and just hack something together and have it work. Clearly you never had to build engines to run in a class and be competative. When I build a performance motor, it is blue priinted. When I build a stocker, ALL clearances and sizes are checked. The reality is that I know my motors are right. Nothing wrong with that.
Great video, you sound like Alan alda
... plus a bit of Ray Romano...
What is the paint used inside the case? You mentioned "GE" in your sound track. Did you mean to say "GM"? When will you post move 'Vair videos?
Thanks, you are very kind! Now if I could just get my gut to be a bit smaller! LOL!
I have a 1963 corvair and my engine is overheating I have tried everything from cleaning the engine fins and underneath the shroud could it be the in valves are not adjusted correctly? I have also cleaned the oil cooler.
You say overheating, what is your head temp? Where are you picking up the temp? How do you know it is too high? Valves will not make it over heat. Late timing will make it run warmer, as will lean, to a point. Click "about" abve and send me a PM with details and I will help you any way I can.
Do you still have the air deflection pan in place if not the fan can't pull enough air to cool the cylinders effectively. The fan works as a vacuum to pull air .
The paint is GE Gliptal paint. Originally made by GE for electric motor armatures. You can get it from Eastwood.com $50 for a 12 oz spray can or $50 for a 1 quart can, guess how I buy it! LOL! Will be a little while before I post more videos, shop is busy and my son's wedding is coming up! Do have some more planned so stay tuned!
Is this a corvair or Porsche? I rebuilt my corvair engine in 1985 and didn't do anything special and it ran quite well. Only problem was it wouldn't do 80 mph off a cliff.
Sorry for the 2 year late reply, day job is building real deal race motors, so time is VERY limited. It is a Corvair. Lots of guys do engine work with varying levels of effort. I know of parts stores that "build" engines, never check clearances or ring end gap, etc. The engines "run" how long, and how efficient they are and how much oil they use is another story. There is a BIG difference between Building and engine and Assembling one. I build engines. I have a basically stock 110 engine in my 1962 Converitble just upped the compression to 10:1 and put in an isky 260 cam (210 @ .050 110 LSA), the car has been up to 90 and still accelerating, just did not want to do more than that on freeway. It does have a nice EFI system and distributorless ignition. Also established proper rocker arm geometry
willing to give me a price on a rebuild?
Thought I sent a PM to you on this, but don't see it in my sent folder, sorry about that. IT is GE (general ecletric) Glyptal paint. You can get it at Eastwood.com It is great with heat and oil, was originally made as an armature paint.
14:39 LoL
0:04 I'm thinking that if you mill out the oil passages in the bearings, the oil pressure in the bearings is going to drop, and the oil flow across the bearing surfaces will be lessened. I wouldn't try to outsmart the 1960s GM engineers---who were smart and educated and experienced and paid and working full time to design a good engine. Or am I wrong?
I am milling out the area BEHIND the bearing, making less resistance to flow TO the bearings. This will NOT reduce oil pressure. This will increase the supply of oil available to the bearings.
Also remember that manufacturers build products for the average of the target demographic, they do NOT do the best job they can. These cars were originally designed as low power grocery getters and work just fine for that. Start modifying and you need to make improvements. Just like I changed the rod ratio by a good bit to reduce p
Frictional power losses
Too funny! Cracked me up! But, ah, no! LOL!
Engine engine, motors are electric
Funny I was lead engine builder for Martin Motorsports, not Martin Enginesports. They are called motorcars, and motor boats, not engine. Engine/motor is a matter of semantics. But you are not alone in making that distinction.
I rebuilt dozens of corvairs back in the 60's. Your living in fantasyland. The motor is great just as it was built. Drive it, and forget all this prep stuff. Just tank it out, mike the crank, slap in the bearings, lay in the crank and cam. and seal it up. A girl can do it!
FYI it’s pronounced A. R. P. Not arp.
If you had to say that as often as I do, you would say the faster arp, rather than a...r....p
omg, haha ok dude. would rather not go with your advice.