Hi, thank you for making one of the better videos on these lenses I've seen. I'm interested in both of these lenses as well, and I also use a fuji mirrorless camera, so I thought I'd try to provide some extra information I've come across on the subject: The 3 lens design is indeed a copy of the trioplan, but the original design is actually a Cooke triplet from the late 1800s, so TT artisan isn't doing anything too bad in making their own version, all the patents on this have long expired. The Fuji lens is actually a copy of the Zeiss Unar design, also from the late 1800s, 4 elements in 4 groups, a very unusual design. Since you seem to be struggling with the crop factor on your camera, i can recommend the lens turbo II focal reducer from Zhongyi. It will give you almost the entire full frame image circle and also brightens the image by about 1 stop. Finally I'd suggest, instead of a UV filter, to find a long hood for that 100mm, or try to make a temporary one from cardboard. I think that will help with your flaring issues better
Thanks for your very detailed explanation! I have a rubber hood and will use that. Sometimes it's bad to get flare, but sometimes I want to be conscious of it, so the rubber hood is perfect for easy control.
Hi, thank you for making one of the better videos on these lenses I've seen.
I'm interested in both of these lenses as well, and I also use a fuji mirrorless camera, so I thought I'd try to provide some extra information I've come across on the subject:
The 3 lens design is indeed a copy of the trioplan, but the original design is actually a Cooke triplet from the late 1800s, so TT artisan isn't doing anything too bad in making their own version, all the patents on this have long expired.
The Fuji lens is actually a copy of the Zeiss Unar design, also from the late 1800s, 4 elements in 4 groups, a very unusual design.
Since you seem to be struggling with the crop factor on your camera, i can recommend the lens turbo II focal reducer from Zhongyi. It will give you almost the entire full frame image circle and also brightens the image by about 1 stop.
Finally I'd suggest, instead of a UV filter, to find a long hood for that 100mm, or try to make a temporary one from cardboard. I think that will help with your flaring issues better
Thanks for your very detailed explanation! I have a rubber hood and will use that. Sometimes it's bad to get flare, but sometimes I want to be conscious of it, so the rubber hood is perfect for easy control.