Actual Kickback (in Slow Motion), & How to Prevent It
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Let's take a look at multiple examples of kickback, including slow motion, and see what we can learn about why it happens, how it happens, and what we can do to help prevent it.
Other relevant videos:
4 Easy Ways to Align a Table Saw Fence: • 4 Easy Ways to Align a...
Table Saw Tune-Up 1: Blade Alignment: • Table Saw Tune-Up 1: B...
Matthias Wandel's Push Sticks: • Making push sticks
John Heisz's Push Sticks: • How To Make And Use Th...
All Products featured in my videos: www.amazon.com...
Products featured in this video:
Micro Jig Grr-Ripper: amzn.to/2CELfvw
Push Block - Bench Dog: amzn.to/2Fv6AJ2
SawStop JobSite Table Saw - Amazon: amzn.to/2HkawNh
SawStop JobSite Table Saw - Rockler: bit.ly/2A2Wz3o - Навчання та стиль
Safety tip.
If you work in a garage and have a wife and a couple of brats like mine who intrude on your woodworking zen time with outrageous demands, complaints, and crazy questions, put a lock on the door and make sure it is locked when using the table saw.
Kids yelling DAAAAADDDD!!!! and a spouse shouting WHY DID YO00UU!!!!! can cost you digits.
That's actually great advice - I think I'll pin it to the top. Thanks!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker put a lock on the garage inner door after the second near miss. Breaking focus mid cut is dangerous.
@@swiftjunk3692 👍
@Bamboo Training 👍
You also wouldn't want the kids walking in and coping a peice of wood to the face. I will leave it to your discretion if you need do the same for the wife.
Never had a table saw but it's great to know about potential dangers, thank you.
You're welcome! 😄
For a 10 inch diameter saw running at 4,000 rpm - fairly typical - the tooth speed is about 120 mph - 190 kph. That's about 174 feet per second. Admittedly the piece of wood has to be accelerated up to this speed, but this is why things happen so *very* quickly. That lump of wood can cover the distance to you in something around 0.02 seconds, just over one video film frame if shot at 60 fps. It would hit long before you could dodge. Kudos for filming it and raising awareness. BobUK.
Thanks, and I totally agree. And yes, it was about 1 frame shot at 60fps. Amazingly fast. But hey, if you want to see fast, try putting something between a router table fence and the router bit. It's like a shotgun! Not that I'd know from personal experience, or anything... 🙄
@Mike Evans 😛My wife still remembers what that sounds like.
And with the average human reaction time around 0.25 seconds we're about 10 times too slow to even start getting out of the way!
@@elementboy212 Ain't that the truth! Sometimes in our minds we imagine moving faster, but the reality is, not a chance!
Acceleration is probably virtually instantaneous, it comes from transfer of momentum from the blade to the wood. For a slow motion demo, watch the change-over in a Madison bike race.
Good advice. Thank you. The access plate to your saw needs to be level so not to catch the wood. All of the table needs to be smooth and clean. I clean and wax everything including the saw blade. One big problem is keeping the area clean around the saw. A neighbor tripped on one of his cut off boards and fell into the saw. It cost him three fingers. Keep it clean and clean often. Thanks again for your great advice.
Thanks, and boy are you right. It's the little things that end up being the biggest. :)
Steve...Yes, absolutely...keep the floor around the saw where you work clear and clean...!!
Dude, this nearly happened to me today. I tripped over a piece of wood and stumbled, completely out of control away from my running saw. Alls I could think was what would have happened if I tripped toward the saw. After that I turned the saw off after every cut (if I had to walk around the saw to get the ripped board).
More work... But I like being able to do this. And I can't if I lose a finger or hand.
Wow! But good way to learn, without damage, so it ended up being a good thing. I turn my saw off almost all the time, mostly because I'm so scatterbrained that I might do something *really* stupid, like lean on the blade or something. 😮 😛
We all shd be thankful to this guy for putting him in harms way and showing us real time examples of kick back. This teaches us alot. Thankyou.
Thanks! 🙂
Thanks for the video.
Everyone that failed to give this a thumbs up, please leave your thumb on the table saw and go home.
LOL, thanks. 😄
268 thumbs so far! Not mine!
Ha ha! But the video shows it would likely careen off the cabinet.
@@jidnglo OMGosh! Now I've an image of a thumb ricocheting around the workshop.
SIMP
I'm as new as you can be to woodworking, because my table saw is still in the box in my garage. So I was really glad I came across this well executed and informative video. Thank you so much for improving my chances of being safer while using this saw. You got yourself a new subscriber and a fan of your channel.
Thanks, and that's awesome! I hope you don't have to learn some of your lessons the hard way, like I did. 😮And make sure to have fun. 😄
Exposed at last!! That’s a huge amount of knowledge for a ‘newbie’! I think you’re being very modest with the name in your title and I think you know a lot more than you pretend! . Can’t disagree with anything you’ve said or demonstrated and can’t think of anything to add. An excellent video indeed.
Thanks, and LOL. The truth is, I just learn things quickly. I always have, well, at least some things. :)
As a somewhat experienced woodworker I agree with Ian. The one thing that I have recently added to my table saw is the clear-cut guide that not only improves your cuts but adds to the reduction of kickback.
Thanks for the comment. I hadn't heard of the clear-cut guides before. The look really fascinating. They won't work on my current fence, because it has a knob on the top you need to be able to get to, but I'm thinking of building a new one, and I'll make sure to take those into account. Thanks again!
The Newbie Woodworker: Just had a look at the stock guides by Jessem in Canada. They’re obviously very well designed and engineered and do a good job but they’re way outside my budget as a retiree in the UK. Also, it seems to me that they wouldn’t work when ripping narrow stock whose residue width was less than the width of the roller heads plus the thickness of the push stick and a small clearance to prevent them fouling the side of the fence.
Given this limitation and the price, I think a similar benefit could be obtained using a pair of featherboards, one clamped to the table, the other clamped to the side of the fence. These would bias the stock against the fence and hold the stock firmly down onto the table which would eliminate the risk of kickback. They would also cope better with narrow stock residue. Of course, the fence may need a minor mod to accept the vertical featherboard. Alternatively, this could be omitted and replaced with the pushstick leaving only the horizontal featherboard which should still prevent kickback by keeping the stock pressed firmly against the fence in addition to any such benefit provided by the correct use of the pushstick. If in doubt, a second horizontal featherboard could be mounted beyond the blade to be really certain.
Of course, all this assumes the fence is correctly aligned with the blade or at least the gap between it and the blade doesn’t reduce towards the far end.
Yep, there's always plusses and minuses to everything, and usually ways to do it yourself also. Thanks for the info!
Pretty much spot on.
I do most of my cutting off the left end of the saw, and often use two push sticks.
Additional tips:
Dull blades are a big factor. If you are having to push, change your blade. Pushing means more energy is being tied up in the restance to the blade, and you aren't balanced as well.
I like the concept of products like 'board buddies' These are wheels you mount to your fence. They typically have a few degrees of pull, to keep the work tight to the fence. The wheels rotate just one way, so if the piece kicks back the wheels lock.
These would not done any good for your small piece kickbacks, but help with ripping.
***
Do tricky cuts when you are fresh.
If you make your own push sticks, you can attach grippy stuff to them (I like to use rubber matt tool drawer liner.) with carpet tape
If you are using a pull type push stick from the back side of the fence, use a grip that reduces your chance of your hand being pulled into the blade. For me, that translates into a grip where my thumb isn't wrapped around the stick.
Question: Do all your vids show some degree of binding before the actual throw? This potentially could cut the power when the slowing motor draws more current.
Be cool if you could do a followup of this with much higher frame rates. I'm curious what kickback looks like at a speed where you can see individual teeth interacting with the wood. I think that would require something like 4000 fps.
Thanks for the comments! Because I;m trying to create the kickback, yes there's some binding before the kickback. You;ll have to wonder on the high-speed camera shots, though. 😄
I have to remind myself that every tool in the shop is out to get me. There's the right way and the ER way.
Very true, and a good way of stating it. 😄
Thanks for the video.
I dont use my table saw that often, and I had totally forgot how kickback works. Now I have labeled "Kickback" on my fence and on my miter gauge. The lable on the fence is tilted in forbidden angle just to remind my selfe of how a kick back works. This might provent me from making the mistakes in the future.
Thanks mate.
Good idea. Glad I could help!
Thanks for the demos .
Recently retiered from work as a machinist thinking about woodworking.
Saw my father get hurt on a table saw a thumb injury.
He got in a hurry and used his thumb as a push stick , got kick back that pulled his thumb into the saw. He healed up ok.
Yeah, that's what happens sometimes when we get in a hurry. Glad he healed up OK. This is one of the many reasons I use SawStop table saws. They've saved me a couple of times.
Sometimes pieces can get thrown back after making a series of small off-cuts as they stack up near the blade. My advice would be to clear every piece out as you cut it, or better yet, take it to the chop saw where it belongs. It may take longer, but it's heaps safer.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, stacking up pieces near the blade is asking for trouble.
also I have seen people on youtube reach out to move the cut off pieces close to the blade.
Yep, don't even need a pile, one little piece is enough to change your plans for the weekend. Don't ask, I feel plenty stupid already.
@@frosiaburlakova7732 I hope it isn't serious, mistakes happen, it only takes a lapse in concentration for, as my dad always says, "One-half of a split f***ing second" for something to go wrong.
@@djjazzyjeff1232 No injury, fortunately, but the cut off flew 8 feet and imbedded itself into a sturdy cardboard box. This made me stop and try to figure out what i did wrong. I did not use sacrificial fence when crosscutting, so the offcuts were not pushed clear of the blade. This one was picked up and thrown like you said in a split effing second, all i heard was a loud shot when it hit the cardboard.
Thanks! I’m a newbie and this is the most useful safety video yet.
Great! Glad I could help. 😄
The reaction time you pointed out is actually terrifying! That kickback comes so blindingly fast it is impossible to react in time to move your body out of harm's way! I don't even have my table saw yet and the fear of kickback is deeply settled in every dark corner of my brain! Thank you for putting yourself in the path of almost assured injury. Now please don't EVER do this again! (We love you too much to lose you to table saw harm!) 📐🤓👌🗜🌲
Thanks, and trust me, I won't do this again. 😄Stumpy Nubs showed an accident he had a few months back, I can't remember what tool he was using but it wasn't the table saw. It happened so fast that even in slow motion it's hard to see what happened. I think the point we need to remember is to use safe practices and always stay focused, at least as much as we're capable of. Fear isn't a good thing, but a healthy respect is definitely required. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Band saw is safe and hence advisable.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Agreed.
Just Like We Must Respect The Recoil of Firearms, The Same Can Be Said of Power Tools.
@@One_of_Many750 👍
I have sometimes heard people talk about what they are going to do if they are having a car accident. Been in 3 of those and trust me - you have NO time to think. Your body just reacts and it might be the wrong reaction! Same with any type of equipment - by the time your brain figures out you are in danger, you could be dead! Always plan and prepare and he safe :)
As I'm watching your video, I'm looking at my bandaged up arm from kickback. I heard it start to kick, then heard the piece hit the floor after bouncing off my forearm and the cabinet behind me. There was ZERO time to react, it was that fast. I got lucky, just a large lump, no other damage. Great video, thanks for the info...wish I watched it yesterday :).
Glad you're OK (relatively)! It's amazing how fast it happens.
Why is the US developing railgun technology when there's KICKBACK?! 😂
LOL.
railgun is just a militarized high powered version of kickback. where do you think they got the inspiration? lol
@@jackclark1994 Ha ha! It seems you are right indeed!
There is a length to width ratio that will cause kickbacks. Your demonstration shows it. You want enough contact, or as some call it "registration" on the fence so there's control against the workpiece twisting and rotating up and over the blade as you demonstrate. An extended/sacrificial fence on the miter gauge face is a much safer way to cut narrow pieces because it will push the work and the cutoff past the rear of the blade without any additional push stick and it will keep you fingers out of the way, For normal ripping, use a splitter or riving knife as you correctly suggest. It is the best device to prevent work from loosing contact with the fence, the primary cayuse of kickback!
👍
This is a fine demonstration. Thank you. I would suggest to make a version II that includes using a blade guard when possible. Many demonstrators show how to make cuts without the blade guard attached, suggesting to the new user that it is not possible to use the device. It would be nice to see cutting techniques with all safety features being used.
Thanks! I really only feel comfortable talking about what I know (or at least what I *think* I know). I don't use a blade guard, and I don't really like them, so I think I'll pass. But thanks for the idea. 🙂
Great video!! I'm a new owner of a table saw for a month and knew of kickback. I didn't know how severe it could be or what causes it. Thanks for the info I will definitely use your advice.
Thanks. I'm amazed at how long I used a table saw without knowing the basics of safety. Don't be like me. 😄
I just wear armor when I use a table saw.
LOL. On your hands too? :)
gauntlets for the win!! LOL
😂
😂😂😂😂do you wear armor when you cut with a handsaw?
If this is not a arrogant answer, I don't know what is. If you said that to me during a job interview, I would just tell you to get out.
amazing real life examples.. and you know what.. you have scared me and I was about to totally dropping my woodwork beginning... I've invested almost $1500 so far in 2 weeks.. tools batteries. and ... thank you showed safety stuff too.. Now i think I should buy first safety tools then the actual tools.
Knowledge is the best safety investment. But don't let that stop you from buying safety equipment, of course. 😄
Great video. Thank you for making it. My fear has always been about getting knocked into the blade, but some of those damage photos were pretty scary too.
Thanks. Both of those things can certainly happen. It's always smart to be careful about both. A little fear is sometimes a good thing, right?
Dean, watch this video of a guy trying to demonstrate the same thing... almost tragically.
ua-cam.com/video/u7sRrC2Jpp4/v-deo.html
Thanks for this very useful video, I know it takes lot of efforts to make videos, but this one also included risk for your self. You have created lot of awarenes and caution for all those watching this video. Great Job.
Thanks, and thanks for appreciating the hard work. I have to say, though, that I'll never take these chances again. 😂
Your skill as an orator and educator are beyond exceptional. I'm certain that even seasoned woodworkers need safety reminders like this from time to time. I'll remember to remind my friends that a shop made star knob (male or female) is useless without fingers to tighten it :)
Wow. Thanks! That was... Wow! Thanks for the compliment. And great comment about knobs being useless without fingers. 😄
I have a sawstop and that's a great saw to have in the instance your hand is thrown into the blade. Safety and prevention is Plan A, SawStop technology is always Plan B. But implementation of that technology is at great risk with a Diablo blade or any painted blade. Don't get me wrong, Diablo blades like the one in your video are great blades but that red paint will insulate the the arbor from the blade and the saw will likely not sense your hand touching the blade and triggering the safety mechanism. I use a Diablo blade but I have to remove/sand away the paint around the arbor for it to work. I only mention this because you have a sawstop table saw.
Great video and thanks for posting this. I learned a few things and I will be changing some habits thanks to you.
Thanks! Here's a quote from Trent Davis, who works for SawStop and runs the Facebook User's Group:
A common question I get is whether or not the red coating on Freud blades will affect the safety mechanism on a SawStop saw. Red coated Freud blades work just fine on a SawStop.
So I wouldn't worry about the paint. However, you need to make sure you use a blade that doesn't have anti-kickback shoulders. www.trentdavis.net/wp/2018/08/06/helpful-sawstop-links/.
Another thing that I think you might have mentioned is being rested. Be sure to have plenty of it. Most of us work all week, and get out to the shop in evenings/weekends to unwind after working with stupid people. Get some sleep. Never work near the saw when you are tired - that is when mistakes are made... like not paying attention after you make the cut... or in my case, making a really dangerous stupid cut. My ring finger looks okay now, but I have no feeling in the end of it. I got really lucky. Know your limits, and know that they change (a LOT) as you get older.
More great points. This video was more focused specifically on kickback. I may do another video on other safety tips, and that's certainly near the top. I think it's a tie with not being in a hurry, and not being distracted. And great point about how things change as we get older. I'm "only" 61, but I've noticed that when I drive, I sometimes don't react as quickly as I used to. Not physically, but mentally. So again, great points. Thanks!
Absolutely agree with this. I experienced my first kick-back 2 days ago, and it was just from being careless because I was tired. After watching this video I realise why my husband looked so horrified when I mentioned it to him. I am so lucky I wasn't injured =(
Thanks for the comment, and I'm also thankful you weren't injured. Ignorance may be bliss, but sometimes being scared by the truth is better in the long run, right?
Yep! That was PART of my problem! I’m a night shift worker and got up too early and went out to garage to start a project! Rest is very important like you said!
@@tamrobeson1878 I like to think of power tools like "trained" tigers. After a while, it's easy to forget that they're waiting to devour you, if you don't watch them close enough. So not having enough rest is one of those ways they can get you!
OMG! I don't think I need a table saw! I'll stick with my handheld circular saw and my jig saw..I'm pretty good with the Bladerunner X2, but I don't have any heavy duty cutting that I need this for, I think. Thanks for posting this video..You had me backing away and I wasn't even there. OUCH!
LOL, I get it. Although truthfully, you can injure yourself with circular saws too - but since you have a jig, you're probably safer than most people. But yeah, if you don't need a table saw, then don't bother! 😄
I also believe that after a kickback happens, you MUST check the alignment of the blade before using it again. I think with severe kickback the blade can be bent which can lead to more kickbacks in the future if not fixed.
I never thought of that before, but it makes complete sense. Thanks for sharing that! I wish I had included it in the video. 😄
I have an old skill table saw with no provisions for a riving knife (best I can tell). I got a little scare with a kickback so I watched a few safety videos on table saws. After that I went and bought a new saw. Yeah it wasn't cheap but I am very fond of my hands. Thank you so much for this video. I would recommend anyone using a table saw to watch several safety videos. I've decided to not sell the old saw and instead try to repurpos it or take it apart and scrap it. It's a small jobsite one and if anyone has any ideas let me know please.
Thanks for the comment, David, and I hope I helped save your fingers. 😄I don't know if you watch Matthias Wandel's videos, but he's always repurposing things, so maybe there's a use for the old saw. On the other hand, it may just end up taking up valuable shop space. 😏Good luck!
Wish I'd of seen this 3 weeks ago kick back caused me to lose 1/2 my thumb and hit my stomach causing large hematoma on top of recent scar tissue from major surgery. I am 65 and been using table saws since I was 15 and never got a scratch. I am now gonna find some type of riveting knife and anti kick back device . I can't afford much right now cause of social security but before i use my saw again i will out fit and also purchase the GRIPPER. regardless of the cost the hospital and surgery may have been prevented my situation. Thank you for your video. I hope everyone sees it and reacts to the safety it may provide
I am so sorry to hear that! I hope your recovery goes well. As for the riving knife, you may be able to make your own, or a splitter which is pretty much the same thing. Search UA-cam, because I remember seeing some videos on the subject. And the same goes for push blocks and push sticks - you can make your own that are quite effective. So, you don't *have* to buy anything, but I'd understand if you felt differently. Good luck, and stay safe.
By the way, the previous comment was from me. UA-cam signed me in using my other UA-cam ID without my noticing.
@@dagware I’m sorry but don’t make your own, buy one made by a professional. If you don’t have there money to be safe then probably better to find a different hobby
@@joshrosen6604 Can't say I agree with this, but OK, to each tbheir own.
Dan - this is really helpful. I've been looking for videos with kickback examples and how to prevent it. On my very first day using a table saw I made the dumb rookie mistake of using the fence on a crosscut and my saw shot a piece of wood into my garage door at 70 mph. I am lucky I wasn't in the line of fire. It was a very good lesson though. I've taken all of the steps you've recommended in preparation and process, but this past weekend I was cutting a small piece of stock and the waste/cutaway piece got picked up by the saw at the end of the cut. It didn't move with that much force, but it made me wonder - if I'm holding down my workpiece with a push stick or stop block, what about the waste piece? A big part of this I think would be to use a blade guard, pawls, and of course riving knife. I always use my riving knife, but my saw is missing pawls. How important do you think they are? Also - while Featherboards won't prevent kickback I do think they help make cuts safer. What do you think? Thanks.
Nothing like a shot of adrenaline to teach you something, right? 😄 Glad you're OK. Yes, a blade guard would have helped for sure, and that's my first recommendation. But if you're not using a blade guard, then either use a second push stick, or get something like the MicroJig Grr-Ripper, which holds both sides of the stock at once: amzn.to/2CELfvw.
I've never used pawls, but they probably would had helped too, but that's up to you. Yes, featherboards are great, if you use them properly.
That’s the best demonstration of kick back I have watched in UA-cam, I’m a new woodworker and this video is telling something every wood worker needs to know.
Thank you so much for making this video and all the best!
Thanks, and I'm really glad it helped. I agree that we all need to know about this. Honestly, I learned so much making this video, I'm surprised I survived before knowing it! 😄
I only use a push pad on kerf cuts or grooves. Just can't bring myself to use it on a through cut. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome! 😄
I've watched videos on UA-cam of individuals operating a table saw who desperately need to watch your video. I've seen people do things I was taught not to do in high school shop class.
Thanks, and I agree. And I wish shop class in high school was more common. You learn so many good habits. Although, I took shop in the early '70s, so I'm not sure how much I retained. 😄I just wish that UA-camrs would understand that people learn by example, so even if they're experienced enough to avoid injuries, their viewers may not be. I mean, when I show a bad habit in a video and someone calls me on it, I try my hardest not to repeat it. I wish others would also.
Thank you for this great video. Extremely useful for the beginner woodworker.
You're quite welcome! Thanks for the comment. 🙂
Great information and very important! Your a brave man I’ve never found my self wincing watching a video as much as this. The table saw is a very dangerous tool indeed keep up the good work!
Thanks! Brave... or stupid. :)
I found the video possibly life-saving 👍.
Awesome! 🙂
Good video but I am not sure that you mentioned that the riving knife should be thicker than the plate of the blade but narrower than the kerf.
I tend to use two pushsticks, I personally feel I have more control but I am standing in the line of fire, if, as shown in your video, there is one.
Somebody mentioned rest. I suggest do not use any machine if you are tired, distracted or lack concentration.
As an apprentice, in the early 60's I used a large saw with on the job training, with the fence on the left. I don't , now, like the fence on the right hand side, it feels awkward even though I am right handed
Thanks for the comment. I actually didn't know about the riving knife and kerf width, when I made this video. Wish I had known! Rest is important, I agree. Anything that can help keep your mind on the task. Shooting videos while using power tools is very distracting, and I've made tons of stupid mistakes while doing it. I don't recommend it. 😛
12:12 also make sure that if that goes sideways, that there is still enough space so it does not end up making contact with the fence anyway. Good video
Thanks! 🙂
This very necessary video is invaluable for new and experienced wood workers.
"You can walk on a wooden leg, but you cannot see out of a wooden eye!"
Thank You!
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Lol! Ouch!
I don't know if this has been addressed, but the rule of thumb (or lack of thumbs if you're not careful) is that you shouldn't rip a board that is less than the diameter of the saw blade. A 10" diameter blade means the shortest board you SHOULD rip is 10". Anything shorter and you're at a higher risk of kickback.
I don't think the size of the blade is relevant - I would think it's only the portion sticking up above the table that matters. In other words, don't rip a piece that could end up with the entire piece between the front and rear of the blade. How does that sound to you?
I was glad that you made a point stressing that you should NEVER rip a cross-cut job using the rip fence! I am 69 years old and I learned that lesson first hand (both literally and figuratively) when I was in 8th grade shop and made that mistake! I definitely experienced kick-back that pulled my finger into the saw blade! Lucky for me it only caught the very tip of my finger! Of course there was still plenty of blood and I did get a trip to the hospital in the front seat of a police car (which did quite cool at the time) so that my finger could get a number of stitches. Of course the worst part of that experience wasn't the cut finger! There were two other aspects that were much worse! First the next day in shop, my cut finger was used as the main point of why we should not do stupid things! Like you said in the video you can't heat stupidity! The other drawback was that to this day the tip of that finger is still very sensitive to pressure and that sensitivity kept me from learning how to play guitar which is something that I would have loved to do when I was a teenager! But because of that cut trying to press the stings down onto the neck of the guitar was just to painful to endure to every really play guitar! I was extremely blessed by the grace of God that I did not have a MUCH more serious result like having lost an entire finger or possibly all of my fingers or hand!
Wow, great story. Well, not great, but you know what I mean. And sorry about not being able to learn guitar. I played guitar for most of my life, so I know how impossible it would be to play with a finger like that. But like you said, at least you didn't lose the finger.
That's sad about the guitar (frustrated musician here) but maybe you could try a lap steel with a slide. :)
I much more getting into piano, but just too busy to really pursue any music beyond being in the church choir.
Larry Coates if you’re familiar with Black Sabbath, you may be familiar with this relevant story. Tony Iommi lost the tips of his two main fingers on his fingering hand when he was a young adult. He had the same problem of excruciating pain when trying to play so he progressively fabricated fingertips out of melted plastic and pads of leather from a leather jacket. Apparently he jabbed a hot soldering iron into his nubs to get the plastic to fit on better (which was always hard to believe but that’s what he said). He started out using banjo strings as they’re much lighter gauge and easier to fret, and moved on to very light gauge guitar strings giving him his very iconic guitar tone and style. I read that he still uses the same leather jacket to make new pads a few times a year to this day and it is down to only a small strip left. I always thought that was an intriguing story. You can see them in certain photos of him playing... so get out your soldering iron and some whiskey and your dream could become a reality in only the time it takes for your finger to heal up again!
If Jerry Garcia could make it work without a finger, I'm sure you can find a way. Never give up on a dream!
I bought a 8.25" Dewalt table saw couple of weeks ago and haven't unpacked it. First thing was to order a Grripper! $65 or $85 or however much it cost is nothing for a tool that can help keep you safe! I'm looking for a good table for it before I even put the saw together, so I'm not tempted putting it where it won't be safe to use. Growing up on a farm and being around machinery (and big animals!) makes you respectful of how quickly things can go wrong if you are in the wrong spot at the wrong time!
Very true, and good thinking. The only problem with the Grr-Ripper is you can't use a blade guad with it.
Such a wholesome video! You’re way ahead of most big how-to UA-camrs. I am far from wood working hahaha but i would like to get into it, great to know that i have a place of knowledge to get informed, thanks a ton you’re doing a great job on these videos! 👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks for the kind words - I appreciate it! 😄
I use two push sticks often (you call it Mathias Wandel method). I have NEVER been on the right side or in front of blade, except my right hand. I always look for knots in workpiece and sometimes knock them out before cutting if they are on cut line; if cut line goes through knot I usually use two push sticks, do mild push when knot comes and hard push into the fence with my left push stick behind the blade, also moving myself little further from blade. In along grain cutting I use push shoe which I made HIGH and even slide my fingers behind the fence so if kickback draws my shoe and hand the fingers would maybe help hand staying on the fence and not be pulled to blade, and NEVER EVER use low push brick as you use in your video because that one is NOT for table saw but for router table.
Probably not necessary to mention, in along grain cutting the right side of workpiece that follows the fence has to be flat.
Instead of crosscut sledge I use my constuction Mighty miter fence which is considerably better and safer than factory miter fence:
nesic.rs/sajt/en/2015-09-15-19-34-55/57-2014-10-27-16-12-47/191-carpentry-crosscut-miter-fence
In about 10 years never had a slightest kicback of any sort. Still I consider this tool highly dangerous and focus myself intensely on safe approach. When get tired or out of focus I stop working on table saw. You are ALWAYS A BEGINNER WITH A TABLE SAW, that is my rule.
Thanks for your comment.
Comments from a lefty with about 2 years experience as a hobbyist woodworker (I def consider myself a newbie):
1. I still use the fence to the right like all you righty’s out there. I tend to stand to the right of the fence and use my right hand to complete cuts just like you did. I think I stand to the right because I want my right hand close to my center mass instead of way off to the side. I just don’t have the confidence to use my right hand extended way out like you showed.
2. Spend the time to make sure everything is perfectly aligned when you first buy a saw. I’m on my third table saw in just a few years (I keep upgrading I think I’m good for a while with the ridgid contractor saw). Each time I spent at least 4-5 hours double checking alignment and messing with it to make sure that the miter slots, blade, fence and riving knife are all parallel.
3. I found that by making a few wooden push sticks that I didn’t mind cutting into helped me with controlling the wood much better. I didn’t tip toe around the blade and compromise my grip.
4. Don’t raise the blade higher than you have to.
5. Don’t wear gloves or loose fit clothing.
6. If cutting a big piece, make sure it is supported before and after it passes through the blade.
That all sounds good to me! I have a few videos on tuning up a table saw, so I totally agree with that. And having push sticks you don't mind getting "eaten" is also a great tip. I've gotten fairly good at making new ones. :) Thanks for the comments!
I once had an instructor who insisted we wear gloves for certain jobs. I showed him some pictures of a friend of mine whose glove had a loose thread that got caught in the grinding wheel. Not a pretty sight...
He never insisted on it again.
Thanks, so much!
Hi there. I'm a VERY newbie to woodwork so I found this video extremely helpful. I am now a subscriber to your channel:) I feel I need all the help that I can get. So thank you very much it was very helpful and extremely informative and I shall be back!
Thanks! Glad to have you aboard! 😄
Now I’m scared of kickback, I’ll just have my 4 year old do all the iffy cuts lol. Thanks for the great videos
LOL. You were kidding about using your 4 year old, right? 😛And you're welcome. 😄
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Excellent video, and terrifying. Somehow I managed to avoid kickback by luck. Now I know. I have a DeWalt job-site saw and I’m left-handed. I mostly stand on the right side of the saw facing the blade, so I’m never in the danger path. The Grrripper really does work, too.
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Awesome video! Very helpful indeed. Thank's for putting it out here. And yes... as sooo many have already said: you're too humble man!!! I bet you've saved a lot of people from very nasty mistakes as much for newbies as for experts. Thanks again prof. God bless you!
Thanks! And yes, I'm my own worst critic. 🙄
Very good tips
Thanks! Glad I could help! 🙂
One thing you missed... Even with a spacer block attached to the fence, you need to make it so that the gap exceeds the diagonal of the piece minus the length of the piece, otherwise it could still jam and kick back. For example: You clamp a 3/4" scrapwood space to the fence ahead of the blade like you are supposed to, and set the cut length to 8". Then you cut a 3 1/2" wide board. The diagonal of that is 8 47/64". Too close to 3/4" in my book. Better to use a 1" or more scrapwood spacer to give the cutoff wood a free place to move.
Thanks for the comment. I never thought of that. I doubt it's much of an issue with a sled, but I can see how it could happen with a miter gauge. Good catch!
Bill Wheaton; Great point when using a spacer block attached to the fence. That tip may save me from an accident.
Important distinction between a riving knife and a splitter*** a riving knife maintains equal distance from the blade at any height. A splitter will have different distances between the blade depending on the height set by the user. This creates another potential issue where the workpiece may get caught between the end of the blade and the beginning of the splitter if the distance between the splitter and the blade is too great.
Thanks for the clarification! 😄
The Micro-jig Grr riper is 1000% worth saving my fingers over the price. I was unemployed and I was working on my house and weighed the option of cutting my fingers or spending $70 on it. I loved it so much, I bought two. Can't put a price on safety, it wasn't too bad on my wallet.
I think you brought up some very good points and I love the demos your showed. Table saws are like cars, they're as safe or as dangerous as you want to make them, you have to be careful and paying attention while driving and pay attention and careful when you use a table saw.
I want to mention I'm new to woodworking and the table saw was the most feared machine for me where I'd ask my brother to make cuts for me. However, with videos like yours and safety push blocks like the micro jig Grr riper and having patience, I'm 90% done with my kitchen remodel and built all my doors and drawers by myself on a miter and table saw.
Again, have patience, wear ear protection and the sound of the blade won't scare you if you're new to it. It was so loud the sound alone scared me, now I can't wait to build more stuff!
Great comments! Thanks! I agree about the Grr-Ripper, and I own two also. And your analogy about cars is spot-on. Don't text and cut, either. :) Good thought about the sound contributing to the fear factor. I hadn't thought about that. I think you and I think very much alike. I *think* that's a good thing. 😛
If the table saw is your worst fear then you don't work in a shop with a shaper made in the 60s.
@@donjonson9587 LOL. It's the same with a lot of things these days. As things get safer, it's hard to believe what we used in the past! Thanks for sharing. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker oh yeah. Old school wood workers had to have some steel cahones.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker hell. Nowadays with all the fancy cnc machines and automatic shapers humans don't even need to put themselves in danger to make quality pieces.
I immediately scrolled close to the end of the video just to make sure your okay.
Thanks, and yes, I'm fine. But I'll never do this again, that's for sure!! 😄
I like your videos because I want to improve/ learn two things: My English and woodworking.
Great combination of both; thx for sharing these important facts.
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Thanks, and you're welcome! And sorry I talk so fast, I can't help it. I tried slowing down, but I just can't do it. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Playback speed are available right now 😁😁
I found this informative and admire your dedication to teaching us safety at your own risk. Or, maybe your crazy for doing so!😜 I found one thing I sometimes do wrong as I am a newbie. I saw mother vid that mentioned not cutting raw/twisted wood that you could add. I was instinctively doing a number of right things but it only takes one slip. Thanks for the info!
Thanks, I think "crazy" may be more appropriate. I continue to find things I do wrong, which is one of the benefits of making videos - people always let me know when I'm doing something wrong, and I'm actually grateful for that. It's a learning process for all of us. So, thanks for the comment, and stay safe! 😄
Yeah, once you get kickback, you become really leery of it. I still have a bruise on my hand from 3 weeks ago. Great video...
Thanks, and so true!
What should you do if you think a piece is about to kick back? Just hit the emergency stop and get out of the way?
Try to just hold it steady in position - don't force it any further, and turn off the saw. Always make sure you're out of the line of fire, of course. Generally speaking, there's two types of kickback situations. One is when it happens before you even know it, and there's nothing you can do about that. The second is when you actually notice some resistance, but you make the bad decision to continue. In that case, you're at least aware that there's a problem, and the better choice is to stop and figure out what's going on, before you get to the kickback point.
Thanks for this video, i'm glad this video popped up on my recommendations.
Just getting started on diy woodworking and is getting interested in owning these machines, i know the table saw is dangerous, but i thought the only danger is accidentally touching the blade, had no idea about kickbacks. Would definitely research more before using any of these tools.
Glad I could help! It's a good idea to learn about the dangers beforehand. And believe it or not, most of these tools come with instructions that have good safety tips. I didn't use to read those things, but someone mentioned that often times they're fairly useful, and he was right. 😄
I've nailed myself before ripping down a sheet of plywood... its probably a good thing the piece was so big it couldnt get enough inertia to do any serious harm, but fuck did it hurt and leave a pretty good bruise, and i do not bruise easily... there is a lot of good info her for newbies and experienced woodcutters as well... and let all keep our thumbs... weelllll, give one up for this vid
LOL, thanks. I'm surprised it could throw a sheet of plywood that hard! I'm glad you're OK, and have enough thumbs left to offer me one. 😄
Kickback can happen even with a properly aligned fence and blade. Kickback can only occur if the stock pulls away from the fence and the teeth on the back of the blade lift the stock off the table. Two good prevention: 1) A riving knife is the absolute best. It looks like a hook shaped splitter and moves up and down with the blade. 2) A splitter is almost as good as a riving knife but it is stationary. If you want to cut half way through the wood you have to remove the splitter.
My opinion - NEVER buy a saw without a riving knife
Thanks for the comments. Everything you mention is shown and explained in the video. In fact, that was the purpose of the video. Perhaps you might want to watch the video (all the way through) before leaving a comment? Just a thought. ;)
Yep, you're right, I skipped right through it. My apologies. I have a 3HP Jet cabinet saw. I'm guessing it's about 20 years old. It had a blade guard that acted like a splitter although it was not as thick as the blade. I could have adjusted it closer to the fence but the contraption made visibility and some types of cuts impossible. After having a sever (and painful) kick back ripping piece of warped plywood (it started to vibrate) I installed a splitter. Not only did this almost eliminate the possibility of a kick back it also made ripping much more accurate. My saw is perfectly aligned but at times the wood still gets away from the fence a little. Very well done video although I would have covered the importance of a splitter or knife a but more.
From what I have read the riving knives were not an option in the US for many years because the regulations in the US required that the blade be covered. Riving knives were popular in Europe for many years before they made it here. It's nice to see saws sold in the US with Riving knives. In my opinion it should be illegal to sell a saw without one! I notice you have a Saw Stop... a fantastic saw! What is the top made out of? Is that a teflon coating?
Thanks. The SawStop’s top is made out of some sort of hard plastic. See my review video ua-cam.com/video/3zbYR5ok1V0/v-deo.html
Riving knife all the way! Always cut away from the line of sight! Never push down hard, good way for your hand to sink into the blade if something bad does happen.
SawStop is amazing. I'm sure they can figure something out to avoid kickback too.
Yes they are, and I suppose it's possible.
Every UA-cam video talk about it Kickback but you’re the first person I’ve seen make an actual video about this topic. Thanks 🙏
There are actually some other good videos out there, but I'm glad I could help! Thanks. 🙂
Kickback is a hand grabber, EJECTION is a KILLER
thanks for sharing
You're quite welcome! 😄
I'm new to table saws and just purchased one a couple of a months ago, this video has helped tremendously!
Awesome! That's what I like to hear, rather than "I wish I'd seen this *before* I got hit in the head!" 😄Thanks for the comment.
Actually a pretty GREAT video!
AND apologies if I missed it, BUT... I do have an older (crap) Table Saw. AND while Splitters are good for those saws without equipment or frame for a riving knife (or blade guards, or much of anything really...lolz... did mention "crap" specifically) another wonderful little trick is to get something that measures to the 64th of an inch, and cant the fence OUT just that little bit... OR (my opinion better) add a "no clearance" piece to the fence with about 1/64th shaved off from just about "90% past" the blade (consider for a moment we're all new so straight line cuts are easiest to accomplish)
The idea (intent) here is simple enough. It doesn't need to be a precise cut, so just aiming for the rear of the blade is good enough, primarily to give a straight path IN to cutting, for that precision everyone wants... AND just a hair extra space OUT of the cutting zone for a little "wiggle room".
When I'm using the saw, it's 99% convenience or speed. Frankly, I have yet to find something someone can accomplish on a table saw that I "absolutely can't" do just as well with a plain-jane circular saw. SURE, there are things that are a WHOLE lot easier (convenience) and things that are a WHOLE lot faster (batch processing simple cuts) on the table saw... BUT pretty much nothing I just can't do with the circular...
That pay-off comes at a price of set-up. Set it up right, and then run through properly (or as close as reasonably possible), and you'll live longer. If' it's a once in a lifetime cut, however...Maybe just go with the old circular saw and leave the big-dog on the porch.
I say that with the concern that a LOT of accidents are preventable through appropriate gear, setting up, care and attention to details and all... There are a lot of folks who do this craft for relaxation... expression... and a litany of other reasons. BUT there are just some tools one should never EVER approach nonchalantly. Routers and Table saws are both on that list... and I've seen some pretty horrible things because of a lackadaisical attitude and plain old laziness. ;o)
Thanks for the comment, and although I'm not exactly sure what you were talking about with your fence, I agreed with everything else 100%. Your point about being able to do the same things with other tools is completely valid - that's true for most of our power tools. And I'm glad you mentioned routers along with table saws, because I know from experience how a lack of knowledge with the router can result in bloodshed! Thanks again for the comment. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Always welcome!
AND just for clarity, I was talking about adding just about a 1/64th or so (very tiny) extra margin between the blade and fence to the "rear" (out going) end of the blade.
I'm usually concentrating on keeping wood aligned to the fence while I'm pushing through the tablesaw, and that extra 64th doesn't sound like much (it's roughly a pass from a hand-plane) so it won't interfere with the precision of the cut... and there's just a little "breathe space" to avoid pinching work between the blade and the rip fence.
I've heard some saws are designed that way, but while you mentioned purposefully swaying the fence INTO the saw-blade to cause kickback, this is using the exact opposite idea to avoid most of it...
That's all I was trying to get at.
In any case, glad you liked the comment, and I'm along to learn as much as to help out where I can. hopefully... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 Oh, that makes perfect sense. I have my fence aligned so that it's "toed out" slightly at the rear, which is exactly what you're talking about. So now I can say I agree 100% with *all* of the things you said. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker GREAT!
AND... apologies for getting "complicated"(?) ...lolz...
Early on, I grew a healthy paranoia about the tablesaw, and rather than try to calculate and measure some tiny angle on the fence as if I (a terrible noob' at the time) could repeat it well...
I added a very straight length of wood to the whole fence... and then shaved off about a 64th" from the "rear-ish part of the blade" all the way to the output side of the table, allowing me to keep working on the geometry "as normal" and carry on with that "breathe room"...
I found that to be helpful at least until I was confident in my ability to be sure "if I err' it's in the appropriate direction"... SO that's just another way to accomplish the same thing... and nowadays, we do have measuring devices that really ARE that reliably precise, so a "second method" is just a choice for the particular craftsman (noob or otherwise) in question. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 👍
Thanks for taking the time to share have a blessed day
Thanks! 😄
My first kickback occurred after being in construction for 15 yrs. and I nearly lost my left thumb. It was my fault 110%. What was I doing? I was ripping down 1×4 to trim out the jamb of a pocket door. I was running the lumber thru the table saw pretty fast and the board bound up in the saw and tried to kick back. I stopped it with my hip and when I did so it only had one direction it could go, up! There was very expensive ceiling fan overhead and it was on full speed. I reacted by using my left hand to slam the board back down on the table saw. I thought I had put my hand far enough forward on the board that it more than clear the blade, but it happened so fast that I didnt know that the saw had slid across the floor a foot or so, and when the blade came back thru the board, it was right where my left thumb was placed, it went half way thru my left thumb. It took 2 surgeries to fix things and I still have no feeling in the tip of my thumb. That was 16 yrs ago. 2 things that I did contributed to this accident impatience and complacency! There is one thing that could have prevented this even with the 2 factors that I contributed to this accident. The table saw was not attached to the floor and was not heavy enough to be secure from movement. Since then, no matter the circumstances, I will not operate a table saw that is not secured to the floor or table that it is on! If it had been I probably would have walked away with just a bruise on my hip.
Wow! That totally sucks. And I totally get it. When the stock moves or starts to fall off the table, we instictly try to stop it. Speaking of injuries, yesterday I stuck my thumb in the blade, and found out that the money I spent on my SawStop was worth every penny. Video forthcoming, of course. 😄
I think you've covered it pretty well. After 20 years of using table saws, i had my first full on kick back yesterday. I was cutting a thin strip off an 8 inch long, thin piece of wood. For a moment, my attention was on the strip I'd cut to the left of the blade, and the push stick in my right hand failed to contact and control the wood between fence and blade..and bang!! I have a classic injury on the right side of my stomach. Note that my saw is well tuned and accurate...but i had no riving knife fitted. Stupid, i know.
I don't care how much we know, there's always that one time. Fortunately for you, you've still got your digits (you do, right?). 😄
@@dagware ha! Yes, i counted them this morning..all there! I always have a push stick in each hand when i make a cut. It makes me cringe when i see people like john Heiz on UA-cam get his hands so close to the blade. Some people don't realise how a kickback can literally pull your hand into the blade, even when using a shorter style pushstick. In my opinion, danger levels rise sharply (excuse the pun) when we are in a hurry, or tired and keen to get things finished. You cannot concentrate or be mindful if you're in a rush.
Jules - Thanks for replying to "Dan Thomas". That's my other UA-cam account, and sometimes I don't realize I'm logged in with the wrong account. And I swear that UA-cam sometimes does it all on its own, but I can't prove it. 😄
I totally agree with you about push sticks. I now use a John Heisz-style push stick in my right hand, and a Matthias Wandel-style stick in my left hand. Regarding John, he's convinced he knows what he's doing, and nobody's going to change that. But the unexpected can happen at any time, so personally, why take the chance, right? And it's especially true when you're shooting a video - way too many things on your mind.
Anyway, thanks for the comment!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker you're welcome! By the way, i use exactly the same Heisz/Wandel pushstick combo as you..but still get nervous sometimes about the close proximity of my right hand to the blade with the Heisz pushstick. : )
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Great video,thanks for this!
Thanks, and you're welcome!
1. Stop Cross cutting with a table saw, that's what a chop saw is for. If you have to cross cut, use a guide (and use a cross cut blade) and not the fence. The fence is for ripping.
2. Stop pushing the wood from off-center, it's going to rotate into the blade if you do that.
3. Stop hesitating during the cut, push the wood all the way past the blade in a single motion.
4. Stop pushing the wood so slowly, you should feel a firm even pressure against the blade (you were pushing so slowly you were burning the wood).
*Note: I wrote this before watching the last portion of the video where you covered most of it.
P.S. Your blade is too high, it should only be slightly higher than the material being cut.
Fred, I was *trying* to create kickback. That's the reasons for #1-4. And as for #1, you left out the most obvious way to do cross cuts, and that's by using a cross-cut sled. And no, you don't need a cross cut blade, a good combination blade will do the trick, perhaps depending on the type of wood and frequency of cuts. As for blade height, people argue this ad nauseum, so I won't get into that with you.
As I said, you covered most of this yourself in the video. You asked for our comments on how to avoid kickbacks and I wrote a list of the things you were demonstrating that were wrong. So basically I was agreeing with you. And I said to use a guide which would include a sled or miter gauge.
Combination blades are like all-season radials, good enough for light-duty use but not as good as the specialized options.
As to blade height, the blade shoudln't be any higher than it needs to be and it doesn't need to be any higher than the thickness of the wood. If something were to happen and your hand came down on top of the wood you're cutting, how high do you want the blade to be?
Thanks for your reply. As I said, I won't be getting into a discussion of blade height.
Fred Derf Regarding the blade height, that is a balancing act in my opinion. You are trading off controllability by reducing exposure of the blade. Let the teeth protrude by the minimum necessary to sever the stock, and there will be a more significant upward vector of the forces trying to kick the stock backward, as well a much better grip on the workpiece by the sawblade, with all those extra teeth buried in the cut. At maximum height, the forces are greatly more directed downward and absorbed by the table, more like a bandsaw. Just, who wants all that sawblade available to chop you up in the event of a slip.
The cutting force of the sawblade is never directed upwards unless you're doing a plunge cut (e.g. through an insert or a sled). Under normal usage the force is, at worst, directed towards you (which you should be prepared for). If you're getting significant kickback with your blade a tooth or less above the top of your work I'd suggest looking into the setup of your saw, something is wrong with it.
As I said, picture your hand accidentally coming down on top of the work you're cutting and think about how high you want the blade.
But hey, it's your saw, do what you want.
I recently bought a cabinet saw and enquired why the fence here in New Zealand was different then for the same saw being delivered to other countries. The reason I got from the shop was that is a legal requirement here to be able to withdraw the fence backwards so its length is no more than half the sawblade. Apparently if the workpiece has nothing to wedge against it is safer for kickback. So my fence is retractable to mimick the stopblock you used without giving the cut piece anything to push against after the cut. That adds in to the comment above about the minimum width of the stopblock.
Any thoughts on the matter?
Happy woodworking everyone
I'm having a little difficulty picturing what you're describing. Can you find a picture or pictures of it, and post some links?
I have taken a couple of photos to show what I mean. Do you have a email that I can use?
In principle my fence is depth adjustable. The part leading the panel into the cut can be made shorter so that no wedging of the panel against the fence on the rear end of the blade can occur sine the fence only reaches to the start or middle of the sawblade (or whichever length you choose to use).. trust a German to make things sound complicated :)
Go to thenewbiewoodworker.com, click "Menu", then click "Email", and you should be able to email the photos to me from there.
Some real good information and demonstration in this video....Thanks for making it. I am 66 yrs. "young" and spent most of my working career in machine shops where I learned to operate many kinds of machines and also learned good safety habits. When I retired, I built a shop where I make wood crafts that I take to craft events & farmer's markets to help supplement my SS. So...I know how to work with machines and understand how careful you must be if you want to keep all of your body parts...and your life..intact. But...I still have a great deal of respect...almost fear...of my table saw. I think it's probably the most dangerous, and unforgiving power tool in a shop. I have all of my fingers and both thumbs and I plan on keeping them..!! For push sticks...they are good...better than nothing... but should never be trusted to take care of all of the safety concerns when feeding wood past the blade. Yes, the "Gripper" is popular, as well as other kinds of blocks that actually keep the wood firmly pressed down onto the table throughout the cutting process. Yep, I have a couple of push sticks that I made, and I use them, but this is what I use almost all the time : www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-10230-Woodworkers-Safety/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1534731683&sr=8-4&keywords=push+sticks. I have had it for about 6 years and I even copied it and made myself one that is thinner so I can guide thin pieces of wood through the blade and maintain downward pressure all the way. And yep...when I know that I'm starting to get tired...I step away from the table saw. As for myself, I don't even have a radio in my shop; I want to give 100% attention to what I'm doing. And I will not operate my table saw if anyone else comes in the shop.
Thanks for the comment! Good stuff there, all of it. And you're only 5 years older than me!
Newbie....Heck, it seems that as the years pass that I find myself older than more & more folks..LOL..!! I want to pass along another safety measure for the table saw. My crafts require me to cut multiples of a lot of thin pieces often 1/2 " and 1/4" wide and even thinner. I make a hold down guide for those thin pieces by taking a small block of wood and I clamp it to the fence just a little past the blade. I clamp the block of wood just a tiny bit higher than the height of the pieces that I'm running through so the pieces slide under the block and this keeps those thin little pieces from riding up and getting flung back. This hold down guide can of course be used for cutting any piece of wood, but those thin, little, and very light weight pieces of wood most definitely need to be held down as they are being cut. And yes...as careful as I try to be, I've had kick-back happen...scares the crap out of me...!! Table saws are a great tool...we just have to be smarter than the saw..LOL..!!
Interesting - thanks for sharing. The worst kickback I ever received was from my router table, before I knew how to use it. I put the stock between the router bit and the fence. The sound when the stock hit the wall is something I'll never forget. Neither will my wife. 😛
So guys, yesterday something scary happened.
So I was using the table saw. And I wasn't holding it very strongly (I was a bit tired). And then suddenly the wood started going up and then the wood was on top of the blade! Luckily a kickback didn't happen, but it was scary.
Lesson learned, with a shot of adrenaline to keep it etched in your brain, right? 😮Been there. Glad you're OK!
Us lefties live in a right hand world. We can do the right or left just as well.
Good for you! Better than I can do, that's for sure. 🙄
True I'm a lefty but my right arm is still stronger from using it more 😂
@@Lopeys2446 LOL. I don't think I'll touch that one. 😛
@@TheNewbieWoodworker LOL I'm not that kind of wood worker 😂😂😂😂
@@Lopeys2446 ROTFL!!!!
The failed one to launch is It happpend to me as a new wood worker.. Basically cutting long wood with out a push bar.. It get up speed with the spinning saw and launches it hard.. Good thing I wasn't behind it and it also happened the one that the wood wasn't flat in the saw and got picked up by the saw and spinned it back.. Hitting my stomach.. Good thing it wasn't as bad just a bruise.. But thank u for the Information I wish I seen ur video before I started all this wood working
Ouch! Glad you're OK. 😄
Great video man !
Thanks!
Excellent Video! This is the first one I have seen that actually breaks it down from the lead up until the actual kick back occurs. II use feather boards whenever possible but only before the blade and never into it. Do you have an opinion about using one before and after the blade?
Thanks! Everything I've heard is that you use them before the blade only. But I' no expert on them, so take that with a grain of salt. Another option that some people swear by, although it's quite pricey, is JessEm guides ike this: amzn.to/3iftS7x. Of course they only work if they have a version that fits your saw's fence. But people that own them swear by them, if that counts for anything.
One super no-no you did was "pulling" the stock through in one of your kickback demos with a long "pull-stick" (standing on the "other side" of the saw). NEVER pull stock through a table saw! NEVER stand on the "intake" side of the blade! Much worse than kickback, is "pull in" where you are pulled over the blade. At least with kickback, you are hit by "only" a piece of wood. USE GUARDS! Also use StopSaw.
While I agree with you in general, perhaps you couldn't tell from the camera angle, but I was using a long handle and there's no way I would have been pulled into the blade from there. But yes, a lot, if not most of what I tried isn't recommended at all. 🙂
Yea at first I was thinking pull stick that sounds great... then I thought of the implications: either it can pull you violently forward or you rip the long pullstick out of your hand violently. I would only want to use that if the pull stick were long with a smooth holding handle, something like a broomstick.
@@lakecityransom 👍
What do you mean never stand on the intake side of the blade? In right handed and I stay to the left of the fence, then wood piece, then saw, then loose piece. It feels more natural to me and out of the way of a possible kickback. I stay to the side and use the push stick...
@@NoRoads2AllRoads I think we're trying to say the same thing, in different words. The bottom line is, stay out of the line of fire. 😄
There are several things you left out of your video. First, for dimensional lumber it's important to have a jointed edge against the fence. You can build a sled or other jig to do this on a table saw provided the work piece is firmly clamped in place.
Second, when ripping dimensional lumber, your left hand is your anchor and and shouldn't move forward with the workpiece. I'm not a fan of using two push sticks because your left hand is moving when it shouldn't be. It should always remainsin front of the blade and is used to keep the stock against the fence,.If you've ever watched professional woodworker Tommy MacDonald, you'll notice there's a small stain on his tables top where he anchors his left hand.
Your right hand is your push hand but many woodworkers make the mistake of using their push stick too soon. Don't use your push stick until the all of the stock is on the table. Otherwise you can push down on the back of the work piece and cause it to lift in the front. and cause a kickback. The body position you showed in the video is correct.
As for the gripper, I don't use one because there is a tendency by some to twist the stock away from the fence thinking that it's cleared the blade when it hasn't. An accessory I like is the "mag-switch" featherboard that holds the stock next to the fence.
And last, when ripping thin dimensional lumber, , it's always safer to have the thin piece fall to left side of the blade. This is because the tension that is released as a result of the cut can act like spring and shoot back like an arrow once the cut is complete. This is particularly true if you have a long fence. A fence that doesn't reach beyond the end of the blade prevents this problem. In fact, all European saws come with short fences for this reason. The only time a long fence is better is when cutting sheet goods. My old Unifence was nice because you could adjust the length of the fence and even pull it back far enough to use it as a stop block for crosscuts.
Overall, nice job and great photography.
Thanks for the coment.
It's a good video now know when I start using my new table saw I'll have some safety information how to do it right
Good luck, and stay safe! 😄
great vid for newbie like me, how about the handheld circular saw? do you have the same vid for safety?
Glad I could help. No, I dont have one for the circular saw. I'll tell you, though, that I recently got a nice new cordless circular saw (Makita), and it's much easier to use than my older wired ones. But that's all I've got. 🙂
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thanks so much for the input
@@weekendhomediyer2110 No problem. Good luck!
Question: Why the table saw are not designed to spin in the opposite direction ? So when there is kick back it will be in the opposite direction of the person standing.
I don't know, but I assume there's a good reason.
I constantly come back and watch this and several other videos on Table saw safety. This information is invaluable. The videos by Stumpy Nubs, Gosforth Handyman and this video of course all have excellent points on this topic.
I remember seeing this unboxing video by this guy who started using his table saw out of the box and was complaining about it's accuracy. He didn't bother checking the fence to make sure it was square to the blade and table. Fortunately the worst thing that happened was an inaccurate cut. It could have been much worse.
Thanks for this demo, hopefully it frightened enough people to make sure they treat their table saw with care and respect.
Thanks, and glad I helped! 🙂
I am not a fan of those push sticks that come with table saws I think they can increase the opportunity of kick back because they don't apply any downward pressure. The homemade ones and the Gripper are what I use. Jay Bates has a good push block also.
I totally agree, Brian. I like to use either a Grr-Ripper, a push block, or a John Heisz style push stick in my right hand. In my left hand, I usually use a Matthias Wandel style stick help push the stock against the fence, and also to help keep me from using my hand instead, which has gotten too close to the blade on more than one occasion (everyone should have to watch video of themselves working - they'd find all sorts of scary things they do without noticing). Thanks for the comment!
Question: when ripping a board...is it better to have the wider piece or the more narrow piece closer to the fence? Does that make sense? If I'm ripping an inch off of a board should the inch being cut off be between the blade and fence or the the blade and and away from the fence??
That's a good question. As long as you're making a cut that's longer than it is wide, then most of the time it doesn't matter. You just use your fence to measure for the cut, and have at it. And of course consider how you'll push the stock through the blade - if it starts to get too narrow, you could hurt yourself, depending on what types of push sticks/blocks you have. And if you want to cut really thin strips, you could use the method I show here: ua-cam.com/video/GUXa37VEZ2o/v-deo.html. Did I help, or make it more confusing? 😄
Bro Bringing Awareness to Any Problem is Amazing. Thank You and Good Work! All Information is Good Information even if it's incorrect. Blessings!👍
Thanks, I think? 😄
Thanks
You're welcome! 😄
Dull blades can be dangerous too because you tend to push your wood harder and the blade tends to raise the wood up. Also I am a neebie and I was watching the blade when I was using the fence and did not notice the wood moving away from the blade ...wow it happened so fast I did not have time to blink. I am right handed so I was off to one side and not directly behind the blade that was what saved me from getting hurt. What about a feather board to hold pressure on the piece I am cutting when using the fence or is that a no no?
Great point about dull blades. It's not something we normally think about, especially because they dull slowly over time, so it's hard to notice. Regarding the featherboard, first, this type of push block should help you keep the stock down pretty easily. If not, consider making it longer. But yes, you can certainly use featherboards. There's even add-ons for doing that sort of thing - check out jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides. I haven't used them, but some people swear by them.
I had a seasoned carpenter experience kickback with a thin piece of oak on the table saw and it went right through his belly. It was so deep we had to cut it short and leave it in till he got to the hospital and a surgeon removed it.
Ahhh! 😮Wow, it just goes to show you that nobody is immune. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative video.
Thanks!
As for the cost of Grr-Ripper push blocks, I see you have a SawStop. That's not cheap either. I think it's reasonable to have 1) a SawStop table saw, 2) riving knife in place at all times, and 3) two Grr-Ripper push blocks.
I'm curious what other people think about blade guard vs. Grr-Ripper blocks. Seems like you have to choose.
Yes, you do have to choose. I don't use my Grr-Rippers much any more, since I've started using my blade guard as much as I can. They still have their uses, but not as much as they did in the past - for me, anyway.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker That's interesting. Can I ask why you prefer the blade guard? Certainly, a newbie should use the blade guard by default. But eventually it seems that people with more experience and knowledge of safety issues tend to go without the blade guard, and the Grr-Ripper helps make this a safe option (along with safety glasses). So in your opinion, why would you prefer the blade guard? Thanks.
@@charles.neuman18 In all honesty, I think using a blade guard just makes sense. Much less chance of injury, although I know there are people who argue against this, but obviously I think they're wrong. But for me, the main reason is I have fairly severe ADD, and although I take meds for it, my mind can still wander. So for me, a blade guard, along with a SawStop, just makes sense.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for your candid reply. I guess the lesson here is: Know yourself. What works for one person might not be the best for someone else. Yes, I do think the blade guard makes sense, and I have always used one. I was just interested in how other people deal with safety. Good to know there are several safe ways of doing things.
@@charles.neuman18 Great point - everybody's different.
I have owned a jet table saw for over twenty years. It came with a blade guard and splitter when I bought it, but being young and knowing everything (or so I thought)) I did not install either one. I also wear a heavy canvas work apron when in the shop. Recently I built a new work bench which included 17 drawers. I was cutting the bottom of the last drawer from 1/4" plywood that was warped. As it came through the back of the blade, it caught the rear of it and came spinning out catching me square in the stomach. It cut my stomach (17" long incision) through my t-shirt and sweat shirt (that's right, I was NOT wearing my apron at the time). Luckily I did not need stitches, however over the next three days my entire stomach turned purple with by far the largest bruise I have ever had on my body in my entire life. After watching this video, I was thinking also about the fact that I had worked all day and was probably somewhat tired. I didn't have my apron on. It was the last drawer and I just wanted to be done with them. There are all kinds of excuses we come up with in our minds. The most important thing here is to always be alert and wear ALL your safety equipment (glasses, apron etc) and don't be stupid and throw away things like safety guards and splitters. Yesterday I ordered a guard and splitter package called the shark guard (www.thesharkguard.com). I have to be grateful my accident could have been so much worse.
That sounds like a typical accident. Tired, doing the last piece, etc. And it's a total Murphy's Law thing that you weren't wearing your apron. It seems like the universe waits for those moments to whack us, doesn't it? Ouch. If it's still looking bad, you should see a doctor right away, because there could be internal bleeding (of course, I am not a doctor). Glad to hear you're getting the shark guard.
The Newbie Woodworker that happened a month ago. It took about three weeks but it’s all healed. I did see a doctor the third day. She said what I thought. It looked worse than it was but still a good thing I went in.
@@stevenwood8805 Glad to hear you saw a doctor, and glad you're all healed. Sometimes it bugs me when doctors tell us what we already know, but in this case, it was probably a relief (at least emotionally) to have her confirm your thoughts.
Are there kickback situations in using the miter saw?
I honestly don't know. Sorry.
thanks
You're quite welcome! 😄
What if you used one of those cut proof kitchen gloves? Will the gloves protect you from getting your hand cut off?
Wearing gloves when using most power tools like this is dangerous. If the saw blade catches the glove, it'll pull your hand right into the blade. 😳
I wish we could have the Jessem Clear Stock Guides for our Sawstop Jobsite Saw.
We can wish, certainly. 🙂
Entertaining and informative. My first watch but not my last. I was cutting some narrow stock some time ago on my table saw and I got a sudden kick-back that traveled about 30 feet and stuck in my garage door foam insulation. It got my attention and I've been doubly careful since.
Thanks. I'll bet that got your blood flowing! I've had something like that happen with the router table, and it actually dented the garage wall. My wife came out to the garage saying "WHAT WAS THAT?!" "Oh, nothing dear." 😄