Norris' 1973 C3 Corvette Stingray Coupe Part 1 of 2
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- Опубліковано 10 січ 2018
- Norris dropped off his car wanting me to make it into a daily driver after not really driving it for the last ten years. This is part one of getting it back on the road.
For updates on the projects between the videos, check me out on the following websites:
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TheCorvetteBen is one of a few UA-cam channels 'about cars' that I so much enjoy watching! His practical approach to maintaining or even restoring old cars in quite unique, thanks to his insite, especially where Corvettes are concerned. I think he has given a lot of encouragement to especially Corvette owners not to strash their cars too early, just for a simple fix and also to realise that old Corvettes are worth saving. Thanks Ben for your entertaining and informative channel!
Enjoyed, liked, subscribed. I'm a little bit of a clean freak....only a suggestion, how about a quick shop vac and engine clean before your next project! Ha ha, I'll be watching!
I could watch these videos all day long. I think I will!
Hey hi sir great post. I personally just love the 73 vetts a one year only car that still look like the 68s
Always a good day when you get to cruise in a classic vehicle
Murvis from Orlando Florida man that sounds and runs GREAT I WISH I HAD A PRESON AROUND THE AREA AS GOOD AS YOU
Wow! I think every armchair quarterback and backseat driver comments on your videos! Amazing how people will watch your videos and make comments like that. Great videos, keep up the good work!
I’ve always wanted to ride in a vette lol. Love all your videos! Helps me out on my project cars!!! Keep up the good work!!!
this is excellent. A nice long video of you just doing stuff. Perfect.
get yourself a nice little fold up table, stop using car as work bench. love your channel bud.
He doesn't use the car as a work bench, he uses it as a table, like a nice little fold up table.
I agree. Even though the paint isn’t that good, using the car body as a workbench, table, mail box, leaf pile, etc. bothers me. I like Ben and his videos but not the abuse on the paint/body.
Before removing the distributor, I would hand crank the engine until the number 1 piston is at top dead center. The rotor should now be pointing to the number one cylinder.
+James Nasto no reason to do that if you just put it back in where you found it
standard procedure. He could be 180 deg off his way
C-3 Corvettes have so many places for vacuum leaks, headlight actuators, etc, etc
Hey Ben FYI to set the timing you need to pull the vacuum off of the distributor and plug it so the idle timing is true.
Had 2 73 Vette 's they had their fair share of problems both was baskets but with matching # putting them back together was fun .Lol dope vids ⭐💯Salute 🚘😎
Great video, good job on getting the car running.
Excellent video very good info I need today thank you. Cheers
Man thanks for putting these up i just bought a 72 and im looking to get into that diy life
Have fun..! It is enjoyable to work on a car like that. One gets a sense of satisfaction learning to work on and maintain something so unique...
Damn, dude, blow out those leaves.
Dear CorvetteBen I am not corvette fan of any kind but you have hooked me on watching you. The caddie and Buick were special I am 76 yrs old an 1985 GSL-SE in the garage I put 1500 miles per year on it and love driving. it.I am sure you know I am talking 5 sp. RX-7 144K on body and 10k on rebuilt engine. Really enjoy your vids have been watching for 2 days.
I like these corvette projects.
Great job. Please everyone. Use a inner throttle spring as a back up. I seen them go.
1972 vets are my favorite because when I was a kid I was looking for ward to the 72s that were coming out. I was very excited that the 1972 model had amber turn signals compared to the white ones on the 1971 model. Now I could tell the difference between the two, some 50yrs later I still tell a 71 from a 72.
Pretty neat project, and I'll follow along. But I'd really like to see more videos on the '59 Mercury! :-)
One more excellent vid guy
That Vacuum Line goes to the Vacuum Canister that is under the Drivers side front Fender where you are standing if it is unplugged I believe the Head lights will not come up and the Wipers will not work If I remember right because the Canister is open.
Those are my most favorite votes. Love them.
According to all service manuals cap the vacuum advance when you set timing....
The early C3's are my favorite Vettes! Looking forward to the series Ben
Hello Ben, I just watched an old vid of you with your ‘73, where you mentioned too many wires to your starter affected the starter’s ability to turn the engine. So, I thought of a solution that you may or may not be positive about, but it could help. Put an oil pressure switch down there with the oil gauge sending unit, and run a fused hot wire to it. From there run a wire to a relay to turn the relay on only when there is oil pressure. From the relay, you could run a wire to an auxiliary fuse box, and from the fuse box, to the accessories that were formerly all running off the starter post. A fused heavy wire from the original fuse box, through the relay to the aux. fuse box could keep the heavy load off the starter post! Just a thought. I enjoy your vids. Thanks.
Thoroughly enjoyed the video... Thumbs up and a sub from me... Stay safe... Rico (Mill Yellow '01 Owner)
Do not put RTV on the gasket that faces the head. Use a thin layer of grease so you can get the cover off easily if you need to service under the covers. 19:33 when setting timing, disconnect the vacuum advance hose at the pod and plug it with a gold tee. Not sure why Ben did not do this because your timing would be way off of the timing tab idling high.
Sounds pretty good!!
I always disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it when setting the timing. Car is sounding good but you're not getting a true reading with the advance line connected.
He is because he's using the timed advance port (upper facing to the right) on the carb, which only sees vacuum when the throttle is cracked open.
Ported vacuum runs like crap compared to manifold, you don't get any advance at idle and lose total timing when you use ported.
That's not been my experience, at least not consistently. I have one car with a 289 that runs great on manifold, and another with a 351W that runs poorly on manifold, stumbled and didn't idle as well. Ran to ported, and it runs perfectly. Both run Holleys. The Holley instructions say that the ported nipple is for dist advance, and don't say anything about running to manifold. The upshot: Connect to whatever runs better, not all engines like one or the other.
uhplumber ]
@@mattfarahsmillionmilelexus he 6666666
When I grow up, I want to be just like Ben!!! 🤪
Great video as always, keep up the good work! 👍👍
That thing sounds good love old chevy 350
Norris is so lucky to have you for a friend. I have so many little quirks on my Taurus I'd love to have you fix. Carry on Big Ben! 🏋️♂️
Why would you put a new pretty intake and thermostat housing on but not repaint the valve covers? I’ve used the rubber intake gaskets at the front and rear of the intake manifold that engineers designed, and I never had a problem. Nice to see a young guy working on a 50 year old car.
sounds like a throttle shaft is leaking on the carb or just a vacuum leak. As a side note the car needs to be at operating temp before setting the final timing and the rpms's have to be at the correct idle speed.
Hi Ben, this would have been a prime example to use the Fitech efi unit on. I bet if you reached out to them they have given you a big break on the cost, with your knowledge and Y.T. subs., it would of made for an easy install, and you the 73 Vette would have been that much more pleased with this get it running project...You also would have 2 or more videos of content too, the complete install of the unit and getting it dialed in and the comparison video on how much you like it or not...if it worked out fine, you could be a Fitech spokesman on Y.T. and everything would be good for everyone...maybe on the next C3 with a Rockchester QuadraLeak.
It looks good with the untouched valve covers
They should be orange.
Cool project wish you would come over to Virginia and get my 81 back to daily driver status. Lovely dog as well, looks like a smart cookie.
70’s Corvettes are so quiet compared to modern muscle cars.
That is easy to change
It still sounds like it running above the idle circuit.
I hope that a big part of this project included “fixing” the front end! One of the saddest Vette years, 1973.
Brian Cooley I think 73 is a great year! A lot of 1year only stuff...
Brian, for several years after, it got even worse...
My first GM car, is also my first Chevy car (after 45 years if driving): a '77 C3!! Only AFTER I bought the car did I see Ben's video on "Why NOT to buy a '77 C3! As of this writing, I've owned the car for 4 months. Andvwith the exception of two weeks (!!!) this car has been in the shop. All new brake rotors, TWO sets of calipers on EVERY CORNER (learned the hard way about the O-ring issues), new master cylinder and brake booster, new aluminum radiator and dual electric fans, new distributor, plugs, wires, thermostat, and now, all-new rear suspension bearings, bushings and U-joints. The diffy needs rebuilding, the crate motor that replaced the original is sooo weak that if I have anyone in the passenger seat, I have to get out and push! So I found an SBC-- 4-bolt block, and it's being magnafluxed and hot tanked. If it's good I may have it chromed or something--just because this whole project is costing a small fortune! Maybe ceramic coated, what the heck. And have it bored and make it into a 389 stroker (the block was already bored 30-over, and the bores look like crap, so going 40-over), aluminum heads, new aluminum intake and new carb. 450 hp is the goal. Then I'm sure that turbo 350 is gonna crap out on me too. And someday, get the a/c and heat running on the car once again!
Hate it when people run an engine without a thermostat! The main problem with running without a thermostat is cylinder wear. If an engine runs at under 160F degrees for months at a time, cylinder wear will greatly increase. It's like an engine with 75K miles that has the cylinder wear of a 300K mile engine. I hope that engine block isn't worn out...
Really? What's be the cause behind this wear? I've always understood the cooler the better, within reason. Rich
AWESOME VIDEO AND A BEAUTIFUL VETTE.
73’s didn’t have electronic ignition and the engines were painted factory Orange. 35 gap is probably for point ignition if you are looking at ‘73 specs. I still own my ‘73 Coupe. Wonder what the owner did with all the chrome shielding. Of course he couldn’t use it with that big electronic distributor in the back.
I like how you don't change the order cars. Would like to know see you do newer car s not Corvette
It pulls just fine on the road, but the last time I heard an idle like that was a radial on a B-17
I love the longer vids.
Great videos. Thanks....
The Corvette would look good in white. Just like in Gran Turismo 2
do you have the vacuum advance disconnected when you are doing the timing? Just curious I always enjoy watching your videos.
Plug the line to the brake booster and see if it idles down.
That isn't a 73 block, blue was 77 and up I think. For valve covers flip on the edge of a bench and you can hammer them straight and true much faster than a cresent wrench. If it's a wood bench, you can get fancy and flip you hammer and give each bolt hole a gentle hit with the peen to give it a little edge for the bolts to start drawing down on. One more thing lets hear it bark
Any motor can be painted whatever color you want. I don't remember if this one is original but I Can ask, I don't believe that it is. I only use the cresent wrench when it is a big bend, I usually use the vice and a hammer.
TheCorvetteBen absolutely, hell car is 45 y/o, being a stick, it has probably seen a beating or a failure from time to time
Or more than one...
I could have told ya it was your carb setup before the timing when you 1st installed the intake and carb and Not the timing. The timing was pretty close. Always set your time close, but ALWAYS start with your carb adjustments. when you fire it up, check the timing light, if its close, then move to the carb, check for vacuum leaks, and then start your carb adjustments. A new carb is ALWAYS going to be off adjustment and will cause a high idle or just a horrible running engine. Another thing to think about is the timing chain "stretch". An old timing chain WILL have some stretch and cause some timing issue. Also possibly a worn cam and also possibly out of adjustment rockers. Though the cam is hydraulic and self adjusted once tighten properly, you can still have worn lifters, a collapsed lifter, or just a rocker or rockers loosened up over time. Do ALL OF THE ADJUSTMENTS from new carb adjustments, rocker arm adjustment, to timing adjustment and if its still not right, check for loose/worn timing chain or even cam. I would have swapped the cam with a new slightly better performance cam but keeping it streetable, since its a manual tranny. No need to change the torque converter to an upgraded stall converter, since a manual eliminates the issue at idle. Swapping a cam is not much more work after the intake, distributor, valve covers is removed, just need to pull the accessories off, balancer, timing chain cover and remove radiator and perform the swap. Maybe another hour or 2 of work. After all that, that engine would be a newer running engine with a little attitude al9ng with it. Nothing better than a "cammed" chevy small block. The lopey racey idle and a snappy throttle response is what a vette needs. And of course spinning the engine out to higher rpm with that beautiful race engine sound and performance quality, rather than that "putt putt putt and slow revving" grocery getter sound. Great video! But try to wake those engines up a little. The way a vette should have been from the factory. A nice looking vette that also runs strong and snappy response will make the car even more attractive. Its not just about the "looks" but its also about the sound and performance under the hood that completes the vette. To me, a performance car that justs "putt putt putt" doesn't look good, but a mediocre looking performance car with a snappy aggressive tone and responsive engine always perks me up and creates a visual of what its potential is.
I might’ve brdpuyggpoiqo ❤😊😊😊
Lu
K
My favorite color for the 73 Corvette is this blue one you're working on I love that color
Benny Jones you mean the one he is sliding boxes and parts around on.
As I approach 200,000 miles in my 1969 L-71 435 H.P. 3X2 carb Corvette that has been my daily driver since 1970, I can assure you having no thermostat does not hurt the car at all. In fact, heat and friction are the two main things that eventually destroy a motor. My car has never over-heated, runs cool, runs fantastic and still has almost 95% original compression in all 8 cylinders. While I don't advocate going against factory specs, it does seem to me that having no thermostat might help toward longevity. I do living in California where the climate is mild and the car is ALWAYS garaged at night. Maybe that's why having no thermostat has not been a problem. Who knows??
This car is a earlier version of mine same color. The paint is even in the same condition at mine.
I saw him and his corvette at the museum on a school field trip he was waring a dog mask and the back of his car said the corvette Ben and we looked him up on UA-cam and we found he had 23k subs
Love my Q-Jet!
It is a really good carb once properly set up. I ran a Q jet for a long time on my chevy. I tried a Holley 650 cfm on it but I went back to the Q jet shortly afterward. that and it makes that sound when you punch it! people can tell when you are at WOT!
All my gen 0/1 sbc's are Quadrajet fueled. be a cold day in hell before I switch to some other monstrosity
To answer the [ WHY,WHY,WHYYY. ?!! ] QUESTION. Remove as much heat as possible. C3 Vette is a hot ride in the summer. Especially when without AC . It will work somewhat but could lead to overheating the heads eventually. Some of these have been rebuilt 3 or 4 times by now.
Great!
Have you ever tried using spreader bars on the valve covers to spread out the load.
Good work.
I use spreader bars as well. distributes the clamping load.
Did you check the diaphragm in the vacuum advance for leaks ??
Never had any luck with Holly carburetors. Always new too. Never any used junk. They're a good/excellent racing carb since they allow for so much adjustment but my experience was always that they don't last/are not consistent on street motors. You're always "futzen" with them. The Q-jet has its inherent leak down and needle/seat problems. The Carter/Edelbrock carb is pretty consistent, dependable, and "out of the box" usable.
+Pappa Bob I've found the edelbock carbs are either good or no good. Some have been amazing carbs, while other s for some reason havent. Don't know why
Interesting!! All "new" ones??
+Pappa Bob never bought a new one other than the one on the caddy, they are too expensive. Rebuilding them it seems like half are good half are bad
I see. My perception from your answer would be that all those used carburetors needed to be rebuilt for SOME reason. Maybe the rebuilding process didn't/wasn't able to address the issue that caused that carburetor to be replaced. Most likely plugged up passages, worn shafts, warped components. Yes, they are expensive but can be found, periodically, at bargain prices and are GREAT right out of the box. Definitely worth the money since they make your motor run perfectly and your car a pleasure to drive.
I run a Holley street avenger 670 on my camaro, rebuilt it and tuned it 3 years ago and it has run perfect ever since with no adjustments.
On your last test run, you had a red light illuminate on the dash, what was that about?
Where do you connect your timing light positive and negative to? Withe the battery in the back
+Brad Brad I have a battery on the ground
Hi there, why not go for Holley sniper EFI, that would also fit the future BBC engine
wow, the car sounds good, just noticed how flat that area is, Tornado alley???
The plug wires are suppose to run under the manifolds and come up from under
That blue engine does not look to be original to the 73. This thing looks like it hasn't had much TLC, but at least it is not all "bubbad up". Can't really judge much based on the audio quality. But, am glad you chose to replace the carb after someone had messed with those butterfly screws! Was wondering what the rattling was, amazed at how that horn button can make such a racket. I'm sure you will have this thing running and looking nice in short order...
Before you pull the distributor, do you need to be a top dead center with the timing?
No, as long as you drop it back in the exact way it came out
………….wow, I must be getting old or something 'cause I find Norris' car waaaaay too noisy on the move. Is that coming from the engine or the muffler system? I couldn't see myself driving that for any great distance without it making me crazy. You can't even have a normal conversation with your passenger. :) As usual I always enjoy your videos of you working on clients cars.
GM Mark of Excellence:
What size carb did you go with here ?
1. What caused the smoke at 19 minutes? 2. Did you ever test the compression? With the plugs out for changing it would have been very easy. 3. Does the PVC line not go to the carburetor? I did not see it anywhere while the air cleaner was off. That could have been a vacuum leak. 4. Turn on the lights so the speedometer is visible. 5. Never buy a used carburetor. You might have saved a lot of money by rebuilding the original one. I'm not trying to be nasty, just my thoughts.
The 73 was the last good looking 70s Vette
With the HEI the plug gap should be 45 not 35 .
Check the spec's. .045 to .060
That vacuum line is for the headlights operating mechanism.
That is definitely North TX. LOL
What about the red light that came on on your test drive?
Ben, when setting the disturbitor timing arn't you suppose to plug off the vacuum advance hose ? I believe you have to.
you should
If the vacuum source is ported (above the throttle plate) there is no vacuum at idle so there is no vacuum advance at idle. It's a good idea to remove the hose and cap the port anyway unless you know for sure that the source is ported.
Ported vacuum is terrible and was used on smog era cars to help with emissions, it made them run hot at idle. Manifold vacuum is what you want to use for vacuum advance.
All I know is , up to the mid 70's it was a must. But back then, I used a vacuum gauge on every tune-up from start to finish on each job. In a way I miss using a dwell / tach & timing light and all that stuff. Even the old " SUN " tune-up and diagnostic machines were fun to use. I can remember them at all the service stations and how expensive they were.
+OKIE CHOPPER I wish you could still buy those machines. If buy them all
What the red light that came on as you went to fourth gear on the last test drive?
+Bob Stienke I turned on the lights.
what happened with the thermostat?
Should ask the guy if you could get a better intake manifold too.
Long-form video! Cool!
If you ever wanna hire an employee doing the same stuff . I have been at it my whole.life too.and.dont need a babysitter like most self proclaimed master mechanics..lol..im sure.you know.exactly what I.mean. well . have a good night and keep.making awesome.videos
Shoot, I was hoping it was going to be a faulty speedometer
Why didn't you paint the valve covers?
Why bother with the aftermarket intake, esp considering he's replacing the motor in a few years? Without accompanying cam/exhaust changes, I can't imagine you'd notice a difference over factory. Sorry if i missed it, kinda skipped thru the vid.
Shake, Rattle and Roll!
Did HEI come in corvettes in 1973? I'm working on my 1978 Pontiac Phoenix and ordered a points distributor from a 1975 Corvette just because I'm doing everything up Ol Skool as much as I can.
No they still ran points in 73 from the factory, The motor color should be orange also.
This must be a different engine from a late 70’s or early 80’s.
I admire you knowledge in these cars, where did you learn ?
What is a smog engine? Is that some certain laws of emission in certain USA staes? BTW - I don't live in the USA so unsure what certain 'meanings' are - so please forgive my ignorance but interested to learn! Thanks!
The government required engines to meet emissions rules starting in the early 1970s. Basically added up to all the engines being detuned, having the compression lowered, and choking emissions equipment added in order to meet the new rules. Hence the term smogger engine (aka slow and kinda worthless)
What temperature is the stat.
Hello, Covette Ben. Got any fan shrouds laying around for a '75 Corvette. Mine is all busted up and I would rather not pay 300 bucks for a new one if I don't have too! I am also in Texas so I ain't so far away.
+RIDEwithGNR I have a few out of a 77 if that will work
TheCorvetteBen I will double check, and make sure they did not change anything. I can't imagine they did,.... Let me know how you prefer transactions and how much you would want. $$$. Thanks, Ben.
+RIDEwithGNR I ask $125 for my shrouds, I'll pick the best one out for you. Shipping will be extra but shouldn't cost too much
Thank you very much for getting back to me. I also need saddle color interior door panels if you have any. Regarding the radiator I just got a sad update from the radiator shop, today. My core is pretty bad and core cost have gone way up. So,.... I figured no matter what I was getting in for some serious $$$ dropped to do a radiator, shroud, and hoses, hence, I lost my mind and bought a Dewitt's Direct Fit Aluminum Radiator/Shroud/Dual Electric Fan Set Up from Zip Corvette Parts. Not really what I was shooting for but I think it will work out well. Thanks again for getting back to me, Ben.
looks like nebraska, Kansas or Iowa
I hate how the fuel line is ran in the middle of the oil fill cap. It just gets on my nerves, I would either replace the hard line and run it more inboard or reshape the current pipe to run in a neater path.
Wouldn't a fuel injection system be an improvement over another carb at $1000. I see them advertised but haven't actually used one yet. I'm seriously considering one for my four bbl. Mercedes 280 c could due to its famously lousy carb design. Have u ever used one of these? Rich