PWC Winterization on a 2017 Yamaha VX Deluxe TR-1 Engine (Technique will work on any PWC)
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- I have included photos of the most common PWC makes and models so you can make sure your skis engine and exhaust system is safe from freezing.
And yes, I know plenty of people who never winterize, or just "blow out" their skis and are fine, but I also usually end up replacing several engines every year that had just enough water remaining that it froze and cracked the cylinder sleeves because they were improperly winterized.
Seadoo uses a closed loop cooling system for the engines, but the exhaust is cooled with freshwater, so the exhaust manifold and waterbox are at possible freeze risk, I still recommend running a little antifreeze through them just to be safe.
This is the way I've been winterizing PWCs for over 6 years, and I have not had a single issue with any of them.
0:00 Introduction
1:00 photos of possible flush fitting locations for Yamaha, Seadoo and Honda
2:00 Walkthrough of procedure
3:00 Process begins
4:10 All done, Ready for winter
Links to some of the things in this video:
➡-50 RV Marine Antifreeze: amzn.to/3qzptly (Check your local auto parts stores)
➡Yamaha Flush Adapter: amzn.to/3lTuKk1
➡Seadoo & Kawasaki fitting: amzn.to/2JWotqu (Regular garden hose, but these quick connects are awesome and super handy)
➡Honda F-15, F15x flush fitting: amzn.to/2IjrDnU
➡Honda F-12, R-12, F12X and R12X flush fitting: amzn.to/39Rw8RZ (1 foot of 5/8 heater hose and a barbed garden hose fitting will work just as good, Talk to your favorite auto parts guys)
➡Shurflo pump I have on my bucket: amzn.to/36Tb9fX
➡A possible cheaper pump if you aren't doing hundreds of winterizations every year: amzn.to/37Di0ct
Links shown on this channel are very likely affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you choose to purchase from them, With that being said, I don't recommend products I do not have faith in. - Авто та транспорт
Links to some of the things in this video:
-50 RV Marine Antifreeze: amzn.to/3qzptly (Check your local auto parts stores)
Yamaha Flush Adapter: amzn.to/3lTuKk1
Seadoo & Kawasaki fitting: amzn.to/2JWotqu (Regular garden hose, but these quick connects are awesome and super handy)
Honda F-15, F15x flush fitting: amzn.to/2IjrDnU
Honda F-12, R-12, F12X and R12X flush fitting: amzn.to/39Rw8RZ (1 foot of 5/8 heater hose and a barbed garden hose fitting will work just as good, Talk to your favorite auto parts guys)
Shurflo pump I have on my bucket: amzn.to/36Tb9fX
A possible cheaper pump if you aren't doing hundreds of winterizations every year: amzn.to/37Di0ct
Links shown on this channel are very likely affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you choose to purchase from them, With that being said, I don't recommend products I do not have faith in.
Thanks, your oil change video helped me fix my nephew's overfill this summer. But don't you also pop out the plugs and fog cylinders down w/fogging oil too after this? Planning to do this antifreeze flow through, fog down, spray some hardware in engine bay with silicone grease to stop corrosion. Then throw trickle charger on the new sealed battery. Feel like missing something though...
Fogging is a greatly debated topic. I've stored several engines side by side, fogged one through the intake until it stalled, fogged another through the plug holes, and did nothing to the last one, come spring I stuck a borescope in each and none had any noticeable corrosion, but I'm also inland servicing freshwater machines, we see 20 year old skis that don't have even a speck of corrosion to be seen.
I should do a video on that over the course of this winter.
I often end up changing lots of spark plugs in the springtime from everyone who fogged their motors for storage (still, spark plugs are cheaper than rusted up cylinders if you live where corrosion is more of an issue than here)
I'm a big fan of disconnecting one lead of the battery though, Hondas are notorious for burning up ECUs after about 15 years, they start throwing a Code 25 (Knock sensor) and its the ecu gone bad, if you disconnect the battery for storage, it prolongs that 15 years by how ever many months it is disconnected, so potentially 30 years if you only get 6 months in a riding season before storing.
I'm not aware of any others that have an issue like that, but hey its cheap insurance against a problem that may spring up years down the line.
Oil change is another popular service, fuel stabilizer (put in before running the engine so the stabilizer gets pumped through the system), There may be a few more I'm forgetting, we just started getting antifreeze delivered, so winterizations aren't quite full swing just yet
Thanks for the video. Are all the TR-1 engines the same? I have a 2016 that says High output on the side of the ski. I assume it’s just a marketing thing.
Everything I have seen regarding the TR1 engines is they are all identical, different years had slightly different jet pumps, and other minor changes but as far as the engine and tuning they are at least from my experience 2016-2021 model year are interchangeable in every way, some may be marketed as the tr1 being a 1.0, or high output 1L or such, while the 1.8L engine is almost exclusively marketed as the 1.8HO.
Awesome. Next video how to convert the machine to be a snowmobile for the winter.
Not a bad idea 😁 I do have a rather hilarious idea for an old jetski hull I have (it is ruined, it was run over something and cracked beyond what I would consider worth repairing... You may just see something interesting come of that 😉
Thank you for the simple video. I'm new to these and I have a 2004 Seadoo Sportster with 155 hp. I have a utilitech submersible utility pump, 1/6 hp, rated up to 25 gpm. Will that have too much pressure for flushing the antifreeze through? Thank you.
You should be A-ok with that pump. Just make sure you follow the procedure of not starting the pump until the engine in the jetboat is running, then turn the pump off before stopping the jetboat engine.
@@trythistv Thank you for the quick reply.
I'm sorry to bug you again. Since you I SHOULD be A-Okay I'm still concerned my pump is too strong at 25 gpm. I noted the cheaper one you gave a link to is only 1.2 gpm. A big difference. I also got the same response from someone that uses one rated at 600 gph. Also a big difference. Your thoughts? Thank you again!
@@dennismclucas1313 Its no bother at all. The biggest problem you would have is it might bog the electric pump down if the cooling system has too much restriction, which could shorten the electric pumps life by a little bit. the sump pump style pumps won't build enough pressure to hurt anything, try kinking the output hose of the pump and see what happens. It won't burst the hose or anything, and besides, the jet pump in your machine will push way more water at a way higher pressure while under way in a lake/ocean. I'll also say this again for emphasis: make sure to have the boats engine running before you switch the electric pump on, and turn off the electric pump before you turn off the boats engine. Never have anything flowing into the flush port with the boats engine turned off.
@@trythistv Thank you, sir. It's kinda funny that I've had this pump sitting the garage for about 7-8 years doing nothing. I bought because we had a pool at our previous home and a lot of rain while on vacation so I had get a lot of water out the pool. Great to know I can use it again if only once a year to winterize my Seadoo. Thank you again. Merry Christmas!
Hi, does it have to be warmed up so the thermostat is open and antifreeze circulated thru block?
Not on any PWC I've ever seen. Generally the block drains most of the way, but flushing antifreeze through refills it, and flushes out the exhaust, intercoolers and any other stuff like that.
Thank you so much for your videos, How come you don’t get the antifreeze to come out the pisser on the port side?
I'd bet its one of two reasons, Either a mud dobber built a nest in the telltale (wasp that builds nests out of mud and loves to plug any opening it finds) or my little shurflo pump doesn't quite have enough GPM to fill the system all the way to the top where the telltale bleeds air out of, sometimes you need some serious flow to get water out of those telltales on the newer yamahas.
@@trythistv what if you pinched off the hose at the Y not allowing the antifreeze to dump out the pump kinda forcing it to go though the block? That's what I was thinking of trying as this is my first waverunner and Im getting ready to winterize. Thoughts??
I've done that on some that were especially temperamental about getting enough antifreeze to spit out the exhaust, I use a pair of needlenose vice grips and very gently squeeze the hose behind where the Y fitting is, making sure I don't get too close and crush the Y fitting, and just gently turn the adjustment knob until it restricts the flow a fair amount, but doesn't crimp the hose too badly.
It certainly can't hurt anything!
@@trythistv Do you have to warm the engine up on the water hose before running the antifreeze though?
@@SleepingGaint I never have, in the freshwater cooled machines the thermostat (if a machine even has a thermostat, many just use some sort of restriction to allow a little heat to remain) can't stop the flow to where the block wouldn't get antifreeze pumped through, the antifreeze will fill up any air pockets where water drained back out through the pump.
Now on an automotive block like in a boat, if you're going to winterize via the flush port, you would either have to drain the manifolds and block via the plugs and then pump antifreeze in until it came out the exhaust, or warm the engine up so the thermostat was opened and use a TOOOON of antifreeze to dilute the water enough.
I always drain blocks and manifolds on boats, on PWCs they are meant to drain automatically, flushing antifreeze through until it comes out the exhaust is extra insurance against freezing, I know tons of people that just "blow out" the water, I've replaced a few cracked blocks from that technique, haven't had a single one have any damage with the winterizing process I do and showed in this video
Whenever I go to flush my engine after I use my ski I get a BEEP BEEP BEEP sound. I'm using the same adapter you are but mine doesn't seem to flush as easy. I have NO PROBLEMS at all on the water. Any advice?
Some machines need a line clamped in order to flush if your pressure is a bit low. If you have a Yamaha, follow from the flush fitting down, and there is a y/t shaped fitting, one goes to the engine, one goes to the jet pump and one goes to the flush fitting. If you gently clamp the hose that goes to the pump (don't clamp right near a fitting and crack it) then try again you might get better flow. On a seadoo that is close loop cooled, you may not be able to get enough flow to keep the heat exchanger cool and it may get warm, more flow or flush a little right away and more after everything is cool may be an option for you.
Hello. Can you please explain what is needed to convert the small tube coming from the pump to fit a garden hose? Thank you
I'd try something like this: amzn.to/3sStbfF
Much thanks
Would this be the same for 2022 yamaha jetblaster?
Jetblasters are the rebadged EX models I believe? If so, its basically identical. the TR1 engine is used in a lot of machines, and any way you look at it, find that flush port and pump antifreeze in. A lot of the Yamaha models have a Y fitting where the flush port is, you may need to pinch off the hose that goes between the Y and the jet pump to get the most efficient winterization. Just follow the hose from the flush fitting down, and you'll find the Y, one goes to the engine, one goes to the flush port, and one goes to the jet pump.
PSA NEW OWNER, hook antifreeze up run through lines, stabilize fuel? Do I fog the cylinders?
Fuel stabilizer and fogging are optional, if the skis live in a salt water environment, fogging might be a good idea, a coating of oil would ward off rust, in fresh water areas the corrosion isn't bad, I don't personally fog or recommend it (we are on a freshwater lake). Worst case, if you fog you may foul spark plugs come springtime.
Stabilizer is mostly needed if you are using a fuel containing ethanol. Our marinas all sell 100% gasoline, no E10 or the like, so stabilizer isn't really needed, but it won't hurt anything either.
Flushing the water out of the cooling system and exhaust is essential, I've seen cylinders crack from freezing, and that starts to get expensive in a hurry.
If your machines are yamahas, you may need to pinch off the line that goes from the jet pump to the Y that the flush fitting connects to temporarily for winterizing, otherwise you'll just lose all the antifreeze out the pump pickup.
@@trythistv okay sweet I think I’m picking up what your putting down haha thank you I picked up two 2021 Yamaha ex deluxe’s brand new, at the beginning of this year, I just wanna do things right, I think on my first oil change I did it wrong also 🙄, any other tips? I also need to figure out how to change my kilometers to mpg on my skis, I could use all the help I can get, I started a jet ski rental here in Oklahoma up in Hochatown!
So nothing needs to come out of the port side coolant spout?
Depending on how you have the machine tilted you may not get any out of the telltale no matter what you do. With the nose tilted down, you will likely get some out of there, but if the nose is tilted up higher, it may never flow out of the telltale.
I have begun pinching off the line between the jet pump and the Y down in the hull where the flush fitting hose leads to during this process, if you follow the flush fitting hose down you'll see the Y, and I've been clamping the hose that goes between that fitting and the back of the ski, this forces a little more antifreeze to go through the engine and exhaust rather than just dumping out of the pump pickup.
I'm sure the pump is pretty low pressure but isn't the #1 rule to always have the engine on while the water is being turned on or of? never have pressure on the cooling system unless the engine is running.
Yes. I thought I mentioned that, but maybe I forgot, start engine, then start pump, then stop pump, then stop engine. Never have water flow without the engine running, or water/antifreeze could back up into the exhaust manifold and get into the cylinders. There needs to be exhaust moving through the system as the water (or antifreeze for winterizing) is injected into the exhaust stream to cool the gases at some point along the way depending on the machine.
And it is perfectly ok to start the engine and let it run for 15, 20, even 30 seconds with no water/antifreeze flowing, which is good if it's a older temperamental carbureted 2 stroke that needs a few trys to get going.
Where do I get that pump at or something that will work the same, to get the antifreeze in the lines
This is the exact one I built my bucket with: amzn.to/3TuJt5Y
This one is the same specs, just a different brand, I'm not sure what the lifespan will be: amzn.to/3UNlEHI
I've been using my shurflo pump on the bucket I built for at least 6 years now, doing hundreds of winterizations every year, and it is still going strong.
@@trythistv one more question if I park my jet skis in a confined area like a garage or carport do I still need to winterize them?
It would depend on if the garage/carport will get below freezing. A heated garage will prevent any freezing, but an outdoor carport will keep leaves off but may not keep them warm enough to prevent freeze damage depending on where you live.
Work on a supercharged pwc?
Sure does. Did a SCIC seadoo just the other day. The intercoolers are fed water from the jetpump so flushing also flushes them, so winterizing through the flush fitting flushes out any water from the intercooler!
Do I need to use a pump or can it just be gravity fed with a funnel?
I have done it both ways, if you're going to do the funnel method, I'd get your hose set up, 5-10 feet above the machine, the higher the better, and be prepared to use a lot more antifreeze to get everything, as likely it will be draining out while you're trying to put it in.
I’m also doing the gravity method and I get a lot of pink juice out the back end of the jetski but I don’t get any pink stuff coming out the little port cooling outlet…does that mean the antifreeze didn’t get to where it needed to?
Gravity feed is unlikely to build enough pressure to push it out the telltale, on a Yamaha you might need to follow the hose from the flush port down to the y fitting, one hose comes from the flush port, one goes to the engine and one comes from the jet pump. With gravity feeding you may need to clamp the one that goes from the jet pump to the y fitting, otherwise the antifreeze will just flow straight out there and never make it through the rest of the cooling system
@@trythistv thank you for the help! Your oil change video was excellent too. Appreciate it
Thank you very much! I've got some more ideas in store, just need the time to get out and record it all!