I also think a two step activation is thee way to go. rumble.com/v14ga31-homemade-primers-primer-activation-surfactants.html One drop of 70% isopropyl alchohol and one drop pure distilled water.
In reference to the Aardvark Reloading's homemade primer booklet; I came across another way of synthesizing Lead Hypophosphite without the risk of generation of Lead Nitratohypophosphite. Please tell me if you are aware of it or would encourage it; it involves reacting lead acetate with Hypophosphorous acid: Materials: Lead acetate trihydrate (Pb(CH3COO)2·3H2O) Hypophosphorous acid (H3PO2) Distilled water Procedure: - Dissolve 11.6 g of lead acetate trihydrate in 100 mL of distilled water. - Add 10 mL of hypophosphorous acid to the lead acetate solution. - Stir the mixture at room temperature for 30 minutes. - Heat the mixture on a hot plate or in a water bath to 60-70 °C for 2-3 hours. - The mixture will turn from a clear solution to a white precipitate. Continue heating until the precipitate settles. - Filter the precipitate using a Buchner funnel and wash with distilled water to remove any impurities. - Dry the lead hypophosphite in a desiccator or under vacuum at room temperature. The prices are also similar to that of lead nitrate and calcium hypophosphite.
I immediately copy/pasted to the chemists for evaluation. I'm truly excited and hopeful. Thank you for the tip. Have you joined us on MeWe. We could use you (and we have a ton to offer).
Oh hi Benjamin. Recognise you now. 100% distilled water would also probably work but a little alcohol will make the water penetrate into the bottom of the cup (soaks in easier).
Biggest reason is PrimeAll is corrosive to your barrel. Eph 20 is noncorrosive. PrimeAll: expensively packaged H48 but the PrimeAll folk make obtaining the ingredients and trying primer reloading easy. It's a good learning path. Just remember to wash your gun using warm water and a mild detergent. Dry and oil up like normal and you will be fine. Not doing so will result in corrosion since potassium chlorate is a salt and will attack metal.
@@helpmenowmark 22s are a dirty round by nature but any gun should be cleaned after firing at least I always have. I have an Iver Johnson mod 57 A target manufactured in the 50s in my collection and in the 5 years I have used prime all I have put over 3000 rounds through it loaded with prime all and home brewed black powder and the barrel is still like a mirror. No issues with the center fires or percussion caps I have used it in either.
I just looked at all the ingredients and hardware needed to make primer compound-no way,i will stick with my phosphorus and sulphur mixture or the red plastic cap compound for primers,its way easier and a lot cheaper, you just have to remember to clean your barrel and action out after using them so theres no corrosion issues.
Yeah, if you're not up to speed on basic chemistry, or you are not willing to learn about chemistry, it's probably best to stay away from this stuff until you are willing and able to learn the chemistry. It's not for everyone, but if you learn how to make compound, then you learn how to extract and purify the chemicals from different sources, then you really don't have to worry about what you can or can't buy at a certain time. Plus, it's really really fun for us science nerds🤓
Thankyou for sharing your knowledge i really like the skewer for a dropper looks easier to control.
I also think a two step activation is thee way to go. rumble.com/v14ga31-homemade-primers-primer-activation-surfactants.html
One drop of 70% isopropyl alchohol and one drop pure distilled water.
In reference to the Aardvark Reloading's homemade primer booklet; I came across another way of synthesizing Lead Hypophosphite without the risk of generation of Lead Nitratohypophosphite. Please tell me if you are aware of it or would encourage it; it involves reacting lead acetate with Hypophosphorous acid:
Materials:
Lead acetate trihydrate (Pb(CH3COO)2·3H2O)
Hypophosphorous acid (H3PO2)
Distilled water
Procedure:
- Dissolve 11.6 g of lead acetate trihydrate in 100 mL of distilled water.
- Add 10 mL of hypophosphorous acid to the lead acetate solution.
- Stir the mixture at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- Heat the mixture on a hot plate or in a water bath to 60-70 °C for 2-3 hours.
- The mixture will turn from a clear solution to a white precipitate. Continue heating until the precipitate settles.
- Filter the precipitate using a Buchner funnel and wash with distilled water to remove any impurities.
- Dry the lead hypophosphite in a desiccator or under vacuum at room temperature.
The prices are also similar to that of lead nitrate and calcium hypophosphite.
I immediately copy/pasted to the chemists for evaluation. I'm truly excited and hopeful. Thank you for the tip. Have you joined us on MeWe. We could use you (and we have a ton to offer).
Question, what percentage of alcohol?
50%
Oh hi Benjamin. Recognise you now. 100% distilled water would also probably work but a little alcohol will make the water penetrate into the bottom of the cup (soaks in easier).
rumble.com/v14ga31-homemade-primers-primer-activation-surfactants.html
We have prime all, it is cheap, available and works. Why spend so much time money and energy on what is already here?
Biggest reason is PrimeAll is corrosive to your barrel. Eph 20 is noncorrosive. PrimeAll: expensively packaged H48 but the PrimeAll folk make obtaining the ingredients and trying primer reloading easy. It's a good learning path. Just remember to wash your gun using warm water and a mild detergent. Dry and oil up like normal and you will be fine. Not doing so will result in corrosion since potassium chlorate is a salt and will attack metal.
@@helpmenowmark 22s are a dirty round by nature but any gun should be cleaned after firing at least I always have. I have an Iver Johnson mod 57 A target manufactured in the 50s in my collection and in the 5 years I have used prime all I have put over 3000 rounds through it loaded with prime all and home brewed black powder and the barrel is still like a mirror. No issues with the center fires or percussion caps I have used it in either.
Look up h48 on www.aardvarkreloading.com .... primeAll is very expensive (h48 is maybe .08 cents per primer... pre_covid prices).... 8/100 of a penny
I just looked at all the ingredients and hardware needed to make primer compound-no way,i will stick with my phosphorus and sulphur mixture or the red plastic cap compound for primers,its way easier and a lot cheaper, you just have to remember to clean your barrel and action out after using them so theres no corrosion issues.
Yeah, if you're not up to speed on basic chemistry, or you are not willing to learn about chemistry, it's probably best to stay away from this stuff until you are willing and able to learn the chemistry. It's not for everyone, but if you learn how to make compound, then you learn how to extract and purify the chemicals from different sources, then you really don't have to worry about what you can or can't buy at a certain time. Plus, it's really really fun for us science nerds🤓