Відео

@rezasharei helpmenowmark@gmail.com Or Microsoft Teams for verbal help is another/prob best alternative. I'm on east coast usa

@truthteller2025 yes.

@@user-sf9rn9yx5f red mercury is s hoax

OUCH! I apologize. I made this video with a time crunch. Sept 20th is tomorrow. I appreciate your input and will strive to catch these errors in the future.

Reno saved my butt before - I'm just passing on his knowledge. Glad we could help.

rumble.com/vtxg7g-h48-powder-how-to-assemble-a-pistol-primer.html

aardvarkreloading.com/index.html Here's a ton of info on homemade primerS. Join us on MeWe

publish.obsidian.md/libby/MeWe+-+More+than+Just+One+Primer+Reloading+Group

sorry! I couldn't get the link to work. Fixed!

@@helpmenowmark Yeah, that's fine. Thanks for the invite, pal. 😁

Sure. I do but this is free. Sometimes it's hard to find materials at s particular mesh. 80 to 100 (...120) is desirable here.

I have since learned the cci 450 has the same thick cup 0.025 and the same recipe as the #41. The anvil is the standard universal anvil you normally see in cci primers.

Sorry all. Not even I use this method to obtain fine NC. There are literally a half dozen ways to make this ingredient - these other methods are superior to this method. rumble.com/vt0ucp-ingredient-4-nitrocellulose-nc.html

It's been too many years since i filmed this. I think i had to play with it until i found the correct one

Kinda related (but doesnt answer your question. I used the chamfer tool head from this tool On my rcbs case trimmer Lyman 7777800 Case Prep Multi Tool, Multiple a.co/d/31XA8Yv Because i liked the angle on inner case neck better.

100 at a time and new plate designed for 600 .. but i havent heard the results yet.

aardvarkreloading.com/H48.html

It's now found on "page 2"

I would not. 2 reasons: 1) Bp is corrosive (but admittedly you can wash your barrel with warm water and a mild detergent). 2) Bp is hygroscopic and can suck moisture out of air and effectively kill your primers. Here I suppose you could figure out a way to keep your primers bone dry and they would work. But this is not practical. The gunpowder from those stray bullets found on gun range floor is free. Save the planet and recycle.

Thank you

You got it! Come join us on mewe (meey like minded people)

Mark Wilson:. Click for a page of links to get you started with reloading primers www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/43c5a40b-33dd-2235-6ea4-6acce43eb615/VaSzWzJVd3uSdecKywoSSehy60RjozyLpg_ZNP0rZF58eq3aO9vcSngMyg

Thank you for kind words. Dishwasher Magic: It's now sold as Machine Cleaner.

Yes i have. You name it - ive tried it. Lemishine is now called "machine cleaner" at walmart. Its only $6... so if i steer you wrong you're only a few bucks and u can toss the remainer in ur dishwasher . Notes: Ive tried ascorbic acid with disasterous results and lysol toilet bowl cleaner (hydrochloric acid). These acids will Aggressively attack the zinc in the brass and in short order your brass will turn pink and become more and more brittle as it's washed. Vinegar doesnt get the job done and i found it to take away a luster of the brass. Even lemishine and dishwasher magic contain citric acid and if you over expose your brass to it... say over an hour your brass will start to loose its luster. And don't overdue the suggested amounts. The recipes call for portions of tsp... not tbl.

@@helpmenowmark Thanks. I'm based in Australia so I'll see what I can get as an equivalent.

@@helpmenowmark Thanks for getting back to me. I'll see if I can order some from the states.

@@mchughcb if the above are suggested try citric acid from a healthfood store.

@@helpmenowmark I've some ordered now on Ebay for US$45 coming. I'm looking forward to seeing how well it cleans.

Good question(s). It doesn't take much NC to make primers. 5 grains of gunpowder from 'say' a stray 9mm cartridge will reload 60 to 80 small pistol primers. It doesn't have to be new powder from a canister. I use stray bullets I find on the floor of gun ranges, leftover powder various powders in the bottom of gun powder cannisters, and bullets I mis-pressed/(didn't pass final inspection) during a reloading session. It doesn't have to all new/fresh matching prestine smokeless powder. Mix/Match rifle powder with pistol powder. Any source of smokeless powder(s) will do. Grind it up and recycle it from any source and the ground up "fines" can be mixed all into one container. Once it's all ground up - small NC is small NC and it will all behave/react the same when it goes into the primer cup. We've done a lot of testing. It all works. Black powder: I think I remember one of the members successfully testing black powder. If you use it: One) black powder is hygroscopic (will suck moisture right out of the air) which will kill your primers. So you'll have to be wary of this fact and keep those primers dry/dry/dry. Two) black powder is corrosive so you'll have to clean your gun after fun at the gun range. Matches: They'll probably work too but keep them dry (as above) and they are corrosive (as above). The sulfur in the matches/black powder will also shorten the shelf life of your primers. EPH 20 (we love it) has a shelf life of 100 years. I can't wait to test it! Join us at MeWe and ask about JB's NC sealant (to combat moisture). Uh... it uses NC (same as above). Finally: I think I remember seeing other members from your country and Brazil. You're welcome to join us. www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/43c5a40b-33dd-2235-6ea4-6acce43eb615/VaSzWzJVd3uSdecKywoSSehy60RjozyLpg_ZNP0rZF58eq3aO9vcSngMyg

We use them quite a bit. But it takes one of our chemists to understand and interpret them for me.

You are very kind sir. Thank you.

Sure. What is your source? Gun cotton can be made but it has been ptoven to be labor better served in other activites. It also has been proven rifle powders also work suffciently well. I like smokeless gunpowder because it's so easily obtained. Live rounds recovered from gun range floors is my favorite source (free).

@@helpmenowmark fuming nitric acid, some sulfuric acid, and pure cellulose. Makes an extremely pure substance. Collection of powder off of a range floor is something I never considered, but how can you be sure that you are collecting only single base NC powder?

@@thatoneguy454c you are correct on the gun cotton. It's been successfully tested (by a trusted member). Also in the interum (since I've made the video) some of the slowest rifle powders (therefore double based) were tested and the primers tested positive (went bang). So any smokeless powder (or gun cotton ) will do. Since thus ingredient is practically free (and only 5%) of the recipe - just use glass as a grinding media to reduce it. I'm just saying - given a choice of rifle powders or pistol powders - I'd choose a pistol powder. You can make (and use gun cotton) but i think it better suited to entertaining the grand kids. Don't sweat this particular ingredient.

HelpMeNowMark@gmail.com

That's a good question. It doesn't look like it is (a problem) as we have successfully reloaded primers several times and the work hardening doesn't appear to make the cups brittle. These multiple reloaded cups/primers are of the low pressure variety ('say' mostly pistol 380, 38 spl) but some rifle rounds have been reloaded several times as well. In other words, we can't treat the small primer cup from a 357 mag and a 38 spl as if they undergo the same reloading cycles. The 357's cups get the heck beat out of them - where a 38 spl cup is almost prestine. But here's some strange trivia (spp cups are same thickness as spmag) rumble.com/v2eef9g-sorting-random-small-primers.html I am NOT talking about Large Pistol, Large Rifle, etc. Only spp and srp (small pistol, small rifle). High pressure primers cause the cup material to distort and "flow" and these usually don't survive these high pressures. The anvils do (survive and can be reloaded several times) but not the cups.

annealing is a waste of time (we've tried it)

I'm guessing here without being able to inspect the bad rounds but even if I was there - those primers are so small. Without special equipment I don't know if I could tell either way. Here's my thinking though. First thought was - Cracks in the compound (Binders): rumble.com/vtj5g9-homemade-primers-how-primers-work.html Then I re-read your question a few times - this may be related. Loose anvils: rumble.com/v2o9szi-unsupported-anvils.html My best guess anyway. Your thoughts?

@@helpmenowmark woow. Awesome videos. The topic is what got me looking into primers and before then I had very little knowledge of how primers do what they do. I learned this: there are many variables. Before, I thought anvils are locked in place by the seating and cannot move and so I didn't think this could be any problem but with the different seats and gaps and material, sounds like it can play a factor in my question. I've seen a couple vids, a few of them animation in which they show a primer compound at the bottom of the cup, a paper sleeve on top and the anvil on top of that for a total of 3 components and also a vid with what looked like just a primer compound that looked like a paper or cloth like sleeve as well for an all in 1 package and then the anvil on top for a total of 2 components. Then I saw another vid of a man whom loaded his own primers and he did 2 primer compounds sandwiched together ( one pink side up and one pink side down ) some gunpowder on top of them and then the anvil for a total of 4 components. His method took up alot of space in the cup and seemed like they would go off no matter what except when wet. As for my question in question here I believe the person it happened to was some kind of security or law enforcement which leads me to believe that this was factory ammo not reloaded. So I saw another video of factory ammo and they took the ball of moist primer compound, scraped it against a plate with holes in it to measure it, took that plate and placed it on top of another plate with primer cups in it and a machine pushed that scraped primer compound perfectly into the cups through them holes. After that it was the anvil I assume and thats all for a total of 2 components. There was something in there about .22 rimfire though which makes me wonder the differences at play between centerfire and rimfire but the kind of profession the person with the bad primers was in must dictate he had centerfire factory rounds. So this good grade ammo got messed up with rechambering so much which leads me to my final thought, your theory of cracked primer compound seems to fit the bill more than anything and my guess is just the sheer shock of the slide dropping full power upon release to chamber the round over and over disrupts and cracks the primer compound. I guess that malfunction can happen wether its just a thin primer compound and anvil type load or like the reloader guy where he takes up all the space in the cup type load gauranteeing a pop. Maybe this happens indiscriminantly between rimfire and centerfire. All in all this gives me a good view of the situation and I am glad I don't rechamber all the time anymore but never knew this could be a problem until I came across the story. Just wish it could be factual rather than theorizing. Thanks for helping me understand, much appreciated. Your links are some really informative content.

@@LexTheLionLocc Join us at the MeWe Group(s). We will show you how to reload primers. My website is www.AardvarkReloading.Com . It's where I store all the data that the members share with me. I've got somewhere between 100 and 150 videos on the subject (I've lost count). To everyone: The following note will contain an invitation to 2 MeWe groups where you can join, ask questions, and obtain all the knowledge you need to reload your own primers. The group is far more knowledgable than myself and we are all willing to share our experiences. Join us if you'd like.

www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/43c5a40b-33dd-2235-6ea4-6acce43eb615/VaSzWzJVd3uSdecKywoSSehy60RjozyLpg_ZNP0rZF58eq3aO9vcSngMyg

There are dozens of recipes and ways to reload a primer. But our favorite is labeled EPH 20 because it's safe and easy to make AND it's noncorrosive to your barrel. Here's the documentation (free of charge) www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/933900fe-a68e-c3a4-f794-11ee6a5cc3fe/CcXOqcGNRKEi7np3x2f6gNmPbffvAA8Byp6LBJDMobztsnlKPXhQwf4QaQ

Thank you Todd. Are you on MeWe? The guys you'll find online are fantastic. Did you go with EPH 20?

That's my grandson at the end. He earned the nickname, "J-zilla".

I was unaware of his video but I will attempt to find it and reference his video in the video notes. Kind of related info (stretching it a bit) - are you aware of quickload ($150) or the free version called Gordon's Reloading Tool? It's software to calculate the theoretical velocities of projectiles when given bullet weight, barrel length, and various info regarding various powders available? I know the paid version (quickload) has been proven to be accurate. The notes to Gordon's is deep down in my evergreen notes (in video description). My source, Reno, is very respected in the primer reloading community. He should have results very soon using gun cotton. I'll post his results when he reports in. We are in the "just playing with it" stage. Thank you for the kind comments.

@@helpmenowmark yeah, I don't remember the exact video title, but I'm fairly certain it was in his 300 Black Out series. He tried several fillers and nothing worked great, they all worked ok-ish. I'm familiar with QL and GRT. I really wish someone would take over GRT so it can start to get updates again. I know it's been fairly idle since Gordon died. So, you're trying to use gun cotton as a propellant?? I definitely find that interesting. I know Bret from Paper Cartridges made some for a Lorenze Rifle I think. Jake from Everything Blackpowder brought up the idea too, but was scared to really mess with it. I'm sure you guys are extremely aware of the dangers, based on the warning in this video. My understanding is that cordite is just nitro cellulose and petroleum jelly and possibly something else, so that may be better and safer than gun cotton for home production and long term storage. Anyway, keep up the good work!

Mark Wilson: Click for a page of links to get you started with reloading primers. www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/43c5a40b-33dd-2235-6ea4-6acce43eb615/VaSzWzJVd3uSdecKywoSSehy60RjozyLpg_ZNP0rZF58eq3aO9vcSngMyg

Good question - strange answer www.evernote.com/shard/s378/sh/bd9386c8-57db-bccb-9ca6-9b5e3d95450f/7BIxz3vBqjwURqpf5aAuIpu3zLf3KhBazXP_omMnwJyX33KwQr4kTzS4BA

Hmmm I don't remember but a 270 and 30 06 have a base of .470 so either of those may have dropped.

@@helpmenowmark As well as .308. I think you meant to say .243

@@DimaProk yes, dumb slip up

Our MeWe group adopted a primer recipe called EPH 20. To make the powder "go live" it must be activated. It is activated with (of all things) water. But we want the powder to be totally saturated/completely soaked from top to bottom with water or else the powder at the bottom of the cup won't burn (after it dries). So we learned to add a little bit of alcohol to the water which in-turn decreases the surface tension of the water. This allows the water to penetrate the dry powder more easily (all the way to the bottom of the cup). The alcohol has a second benefit. Once it has done it's job of assisting in activation - it dries faster/easier so the primer will be ready to reload faster. It's simple yet amazing as to how smart those guys (the chemists) are. But they teach ordinary folk like me how to do it. I, in turn, teach my listeners ( all free of charge). My next entry is an invitation to to the MeWe groups where you can see other lessons, ask questions and such. All are welcome to join.

Hi there! Jump Start 1 - I'm trying to get you going! rumble.com/vjdy5h-reloading-primers-for-beginners-jump-start-1.html AardvarkReloading.com and MeWe’s Primer Reloading and Primer Reloading for Beginners Chat Forums go hand-in-hand. Please go to one of the chat rooms and let us know what information you need to get started reloading your own primers and our group of members will do their best to provide it. We are very interested in your success in this endeavor. There will be no ridicule of any questions you ask no matter your experience level. We grow by utilizing your background and experience in your various professions - so please be willing to share. The MeWe chat forums consist of the best group of guys on the internet in primer reloading and other skills and you're now a part of it. Primer Reloading group (known as Second Floor): mewe.com/join/primerreloading If you find the Primer Reloading group chat too technical, try the ground floor: mewe.com/join/primerreloadingforbeginners You will be welcomed in both!!! My website: I publish much of this info on: aardvarkreloading.com ==== MeWe Navigation ==== MeWe Navigation - Groups: rumble.com/v15wnom-homemade-primers-mewe-groups.html MeWe - How to Chat: rumble.com/v15x61q-homemade-primers-mewe-chat.html MeWe - How to Post: rumble.com/v15x61q-homemade-primers-mewe-chat.html Posting Photos and Files: rumble.com/v18j51b-homemade-primers-mewe-groups-photos-and-files.html and Finally . . . One of the ingredients of many primer formulas is glass (from 'say' a broken light bulb). But this glass must be hand ground to the consistency of flour! The information and all my tutorials are free but I must pay for the website, software, tools, and chemicals for R&D. Click on the link below if you would like to help keep this effort going (and I'll send pre-gtound glass in return). Thank you! aardvarkreloading.com/aardvark.html

I disconnected it for time being. I bought a manual handle.

I agree. I try out different techniques with various videos to see if the technique adds value. This one didn't and I dropped it after only one attempt. But hey - thank you for the constructive criticism . I value your input.