Love the use of the paint cans, I've got gallons and quarts and when I ran out of those I grabbed my decades old bucket of actual RR spikes and started with them
When you move into a new house, which I seem to do every 2-3 years lately, you have tons of half filled paint cans. And the previous owner left a few as well, so, why not put them to good use! Thanks for the comment.
Your video looks great. And it really helps. I’m getting ready to lay down track in the next couple of days. I put plaster on my risers and now I’m ready to add my bass layer of paint.
I've been glueing down my unitrack by placing small 1/8" epoxy fillets at strategic locations in the layout to keep it all nice and flat. It is very quick and will allow me to easily remove the switches and track pieces if I need to do some repair work or deconstruction.
epoxy fillets? Not sure what you mean. I'm not planning on the seeing my last railroad, once I retire, in c couple years, and get out of the South, I'll see what space I have in my "forever house" then I'll worry about being able to tear things up with ease! I am interested in what your talking about,
Yup, everything was running smoothly until I secured my Unitrack to my extruded polystyrene, I had to adjust some areas which suddenly became not level, but I found an easy fix for that. Then my 2 engines were running just fine until I secured other areas of track. After I secure a section of track I am running trains to be on the safe side. I’ve even added power feeds on long (2’) sections of stub ended yard leads just to be safe. But today (2 days since I last ran trains) I dry dusted the track and there are areas where the track will seemingly short out when running 2 engines but just as soon as they seemingly short out they start running again and run without issue for several minutes & then another hiccup.
Hmmm ... you got me as to what's going on there. If I don't find high spot to file, then it's usually dirty tracks. Lately I found a spot that my engine's magnetic de-coupler will catch on a turnout point, I'm ready to cut back that wire or remove it all together, as I like just using a bamboo skewer.
@@twitch1965 I have checked high spots and filed them as well, but your comment makes me wonder if the securing of the track has caused some changes in the track alignment and I should check for high spots again. Plus I need to check the engines for any hanging or dragging equipment. Thanks for the feedback.
My layout is Unitrack on pink styrofoam. Because you'll be making future changes to your layout, you don't want a strong permanent bond. I use cheap dollar store white glue (PVA). It does a good job of holding down the track but is not too difficult to remove, should it be necessary.
I stopped using the black Kato insulated rail joiners and found another product. The black plastic is too high, so if your rolling stock has large wheel flanges (even those smaller than the pizza cutters) you can end up with derailments or rocking cars.
Love the use of the paint cans, I've got gallons and quarts and when I ran out of those I grabbed my decades old bucket of actual RR spikes and started with them
When you move into a new house, which I seem to do every 2-3 years lately, you have tons of half filled paint cans. And the previous owner left a few as well, so, why not put them to good use! Thanks for the comment.
Your video looks great. And it really helps. I’m getting ready to lay down track in the next couple of days. I put plaster on my risers and now I’m ready to add my bass layer of paint.
Good luck with your layout!
I've been glueing down my unitrack by placing small 1/8" epoxy fillets at strategic locations in the layout to keep it all nice and flat. It is very quick and will allow me to easily remove the switches and track pieces if I need to do some repair work or deconstruction.
epoxy fillets? Not sure what you mean. I'm not planning on the seeing my last railroad, once I retire, in c couple years, and get out of the South, I'll see what space I have in my "forever house" then I'll worry about being able to tear things up with ease!
I am interested in what your talking about,
I might look into N-scale just for a switching layout. Unitrack is handy, but the plastic fake ballast doesn't deaden sound at all.
Yup, everything was running smoothly until I secured my Unitrack to my extruded polystyrene, I had to adjust some areas which suddenly became not level, but I found an easy fix for that. Then my 2 engines were running just fine until I secured other areas of track. After I secure a section of track I am running trains to be on the safe side. I’ve even added power feeds on long (2’) sections of stub ended yard leads just to be safe. But today (2 days since I last ran trains) I dry dusted the track and there are areas where the track will seemingly short out when running 2 engines but just as soon as they seemingly short out they start running again and run without issue for several minutes & then another hiccup.
Hmmm ... you got me as to what's going on there. If I don't find high spot to file, then it's usually dirty tracks. Lately I found a spot that my engine's magnetic de-coupler will catch on a turnout point, I'm ready to cut back that wire or remove it all together, as I like just using a bamboo skewer.
@@twitch1965 I have checked high spots and filed them as well, but your comment makes me wonder if the securing of the track has caused some changes in the track alignment and I should check for high spots again. Plus I need to check the engines for any hanging or dragging equipment. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video! Thanks
Thanks, Glad I could help!
My layout is Unitrack on pink styrofoam. Because you'll be making future changes to your layout, you don't want a strong permanent bond. I use cheap dollar store white glue (PVA). It does a good job of holding down the track but is not too difficult to remove, should it be necessary.
PVA will work! I do like the Latex caulk as it's a little more durable, but it comes right up with a putty knife. Happy Railroading!
[thank, you for you're great video]👍
Thanks for watching!
I stopped using the black Kato insulated rail joiners and found another product. The black plastic is too high, so if your rolling stock has large wheel flanges (even those smaller than the pizza cutters) you can end up with derailments or rocking cars.
Interesting, I haven't found that to be the case, but I'll keep an eye out for issues!
Very helpful. thank you...
Glad it was helpful! And while I make these videos for myself, I'm always super excited when I hear someone was helped by them!