I have 4 pairs of LB rims (1x25mm, 2x35mm, and 1x45mm) which I built up with White Industries hubs. I have been riding them for 6 years and I never had a problem with them.
Thanks for what you do. You have taught me a lot. I want to be able to work on my own bike as a single mom of two boys who both have bikes. I watch bike repair videos and reviews frequently. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the nice comment, JustBeYouTy. The best channel on UA-cam for learning proper bicycle repair procedures is ParkTool's. Here's a link to their channel: ua-cam.com/channels/zaZ1sPWEuZN-I8_XT6AH8g.html They have lots of videos so you will want to do a search to find one on what you're working on. Also, I have been helping people fix bikes and learn bicycle repair online since the Internet first began. If you run into any questions you need help with I'm happy to help. You can leave a comment or just email me at jim at jimlangley dot net and I'll reply as soon as I can. Thanks again.
I picked up a set of AR46 rim brake wheels last year and have had zero issues. Quality build without the astronomical price tag. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another set if/when I'm in the market for a new set of wheels.
Just got some AR36 disc yesterday. Getting them built soon. I've never experienced an issue with my LB wheels. So I expect these to be great. Thanks for this video. Super informative.
First report from Scott is that he likes them a lot, so I think you're going to feel like a new rider on yours, SouthislandHC! Please leave a comment and share how you like them. Thanks a lot for watching!
Glad to see that they are good. Didn't expect much less either. My light bicycle wheels are in shipping, I'm expecting my wheels to arrive in a few weeks :)
Thanks for watching and for the request, danyclaro47. If SUPERTEAM sends me some wheels or if someone who owns them would like to have me inspect theirs, I could do that just like I did with Scott's. But, I need the wheels to check them out and I don't have access to them at this point. Thanks for watching and for the request and if I can make it happen, I will.
You're welcome, Late Risers and thanks for watching! Any good wheelbuilder could check wheels like I do so you might be able to find someone to do it if you search for a local wheelsmith with a good reputation. Thanks again.
Thank you for your videos Jim I greatly appreciate it! Your last chinese wheel check video motivated me to throw down with park tools after almost 30 years of riding. I ordered a chinese carbon 650b plus wheelset from eBay and my daughter and I ran them through the checks and amazingly I'd say the $425 set gets a very good grade. The best part is I now have a lot more confidence in any set of wheels I check, though of course it's a new hobby at this point. Thanks again!
Thanks for making my day, Adrian. It's awesome that you are now set up to check your own wheels!! Good for you!! The next step is to build your own. And I have a video for that you probably already know about, but just in case - and for anyone else reading this, here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/XUqul03hbZ8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching and for the wonderful comment!
I have a very similar but deeper rim set - Light Bicycle AR56s which I think are great so thank-you Jim for reassurance coming from an expert wheel builder that the brand earns a pass on these AR45s. You were also right that Continental GP 5000 Tubeless tyres are very hard to fit and the trick was to leave them in the sun for about 5-1Omins - with a mate helping me (so 4 man hands working to pull the tyre over the rim) we got them on without tyre levers.
Thanks a lot for watching and for sharing your great experience with your Light Bicycle AR56s, James. And, that's a good tip to leave tires in the sun to make them a little easier to put on - also getting a mate to help! Thank you!
I just ordered a set of YUSHIN mountain bike wheels with 240 hubs and SAPIM spokes, 30.6 interior width, someone who built a Yeti SB 115 bike build used them and says they're great even for enduro. Their rims are mixed with GRAPHENE 240MB-ASD937TR-GP(1428g).
I should maybe watch your other videos on wheelbuilding, but wondering why the wheel doesn’t appear equally centered between the calipers when checking side to side movement. Seems like the caliper on the left is nearly touching and one on the right is much further away… maybe just camera angles, but wondering if that’s just part of building wheels.
Thanks for watching and the question cxspokes! You are right about the camera angles. The wheel is not as far off center as it looks. The thing is that when you true wheels most people myself included true watching one side of the caliper, one pointer. That's because one eye is usually better than the other eye. So in my wheel videos I try to show what you'd see when truing and checking true, which is one pointer on one side of the rim. Park truing stands self center so when you're building wheels and checking wheels, they will bring the rim into center as you work. Sometimes to get the video I want I will push the wheel a little off center in the stand. That's part of the distortion you see, too. Hope that helps explain and thanks for the great question.
Thanks for watching and the comment, WizBAng. But I have to disagree. Park's truing stand is a phenomenal tool that lets anyone build great wheels. What you're recommending - DT's Proline stand with dial indicators is among the most expensive truing stands in the world at about $2,500 - maybe even more - they're hard to find right now with the gauges. Wheel quality has more to do with the person using the tool than the tool itself and a competent wheel builder can build great wheels in any truing stand even a home made one or by putting a wheel in the frame, too. Dial indicators in fact can make wheel truing and building more difficult for some wheel builders. But I'm happy to hear you like using yours.
Great video Jim. I'm thinking about buy a pair of Light Bicycle rims and building wheels for bicycle touring. I have a Lynkskey Titanium Gravel bike and am planning on touring with it. I am 200 Lb's and the bike is 20. Just light touring, and commenting . Plan to put a dynamo hub and most likely a Shimano GRX back hub. What spoke hole count and spoke pattern would you recommend for the front and back wheels. Any device is appreciated. MW
Thanks for watching Mark! I’d go 32 spokes cross 3 front and rear. Those should be good for what you’re planning. Sound like fun!! Have a great trip and thanks again! Oh, be sure to choose rims designed for the tires you’re running.
Very professional....BTW i tested a nipple washer in my CF rim and it won’t quite fit through the larger holes above spoke hole. Seems i must grind washer edge slight to fit thru since modifying the 28 cf hole seems like a bad strategy IMHO
Thanks, Graydon. Yes, some washers are a tad oversize. You might find, as I have, that they will actually pass through the holes once you put a little pressure on them during insertion. They will bow slightly or cup and that lets them pop through - with some washers anyway. BUT BE SURE to do this while keeping the washer captive on a spoke or tool so that it can't fall inside the rim and get lost and rattle around in there. The easier option is to find a sanding bit and gently removing a tiny amount of material to enlarge the rim holes. This won't harm the rim because you're removing hardly any material on holes that already exist and not leaving any jagged edges. Hope this is helpful. Thanks again!
Yes, that's a good point, Geoff - thanks for giving that perspective. These are not budget wheels. Scott upgraded by going with the DT Swiss 240 hubs and the tubeless (no-holes) rims and that added cost. Thanks for watching and the helpful comment.
Would be nice if tension meters were created with Bluetooth data sharing on a phone app. Otherwise, it’s an Ass pain to measure, Input values on Park Tool web app, then measure next spoke.
Thanks for watching, Sav-oir. I think you have a good idea there. My Wheel Fanatyk has a wired connection and a foot pedal. Press the foot pedal to upload the value to the spreadsheet. I don’t record the values though so don’t use that feature much. But it’s easy to use.
Hey Jim, If I normally build with a 12mm Sapim nipple but switch to a 14mm sapim polyax should I remove 2mm from my spoke lengths? Have you noticed any advantage with the polyax nipples? Glad to see these wheels turned out well for Scott. I was looking at ordering a pair as well but with Novatec hubs.
Thanks for watching and the question, Aaron. I usually choose DT Swiss spokes and nipples, Aaron. For Sapim, I am pretty sure that when you use their calculator, they ask you to specify which of their nipples you will be using and the calculator gives you the correct spoke length for whichever nipple you choose. Here is a link to their calculator so that you can try it: www.sapim.be/spoke-calculator I hope this helps answer your question and if you get the Light Bicycle wheels please leave a comment on how you like them. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks for the response. I can't get an accurate calculation using the Sapim calculator, so I checked the DT Swiss calculator. That seems to give the correct lengths and has a dropdown for nipple lengths(matches spoke lengths that worked on a previous build). The DT Swiss calculator does recommend a shorter spoke with a longer nipple, but only a 1mm difference for 12mm vs 14mm nipple length.
@@aaron___6014 Good job checking DT's calculator to figure it out, Aaron! Have fun building that wheel! Here's a link to DT's spoke length calculator if anyone needs it: spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/
How would you compare this Lightbicycle wheelset with the ICAN wheelset you reviewed? Curious since this was brought up at the beginning of the video and referenced quite many times.
Thanks for watching and the question, Gabriel. As far as the quality of the build (just the construction), the 2 wheelsets are comparable. The difference is that the ICANs are a stock set of wheels and the LIGHTs were built to Scott's specs. So they boast DT Swiss 240 hubs and non-drilled carbon tubeless rims. Those would be considered upgrades and they were reflected in the higher price Scott paid for his wheels. Scott hasn't reported any negative issues with his wheels and my ICANs have been holding up great. I have also been riding a set of ICAN mountain bike wheels so I actually have experience with 2 sets. If you're interested in how ICAN did with that build, here's the inspection video ua-cam.com/video/3yPjw0xgu4U/v-deo.html and here's the ride video: ua-cam.com/video/Bz87vKthgxg/v-deo.html Overall, based on my experience with both brands (and the many positive comments), I think you'll end up with fine wheels with either of these brands.
Thanks for the prompt reply, Jim. Appreciate your professional feedback on these wheelsets. I’ve watched the ICAN video before. Hence, I know you’ve had experience with both and was curious bout your thoughts. I personally own an ICAN FL50 rim brake wheelset and it has been great. Thinking to get a carbon wheelset for my disc brake bike and been looking into lightbicycle too as an alternative option. Are there any concerns with the Novatec hubs on the ICAN or D01 hubs? Also, any thoughts on the Bitex hubs from Light Bicycle? Assuming the hubs are somewhat equal (similar specs) and not the high end DT Swiss 240 exp’s, between these two brands, which would you go with and why? Appreciate your feedback. Thank you once again for all the informative videos you put out.
@@gabrielfong another good question, Gabriel - if you haven't yet, I hope you'll subscribe to my channel, keep watching and commenting, thanks. On hubs, I don't think too many people would discount DT Swiss hubs, Swiss-made and with available replacement parts albeit at high prices and sometimes long waits to get them these days. DT has a rep for durability, smooth running and the highest quality. That said, Novatec has been making hubs for so many wheels for so long and they too have a great reputation, maybe not the same as DT but I know wheel companies that love their hubs. Part of my ICAN Aero 40 test was to try out their hubs. I actually asked for DT hubs but they said to try their hubs. I was happy to do it and in 2,000 plus miles on them I haven't been able to affect their performance at all. Now I live in Northern California. We get some rain but nowhere near what the rest of the USA gets and we don't get snow except once in a blue moon at elevation. To try to beat up the hubs I ride a lot on gravel roads and these hubs don't seem to mind that a bit. I also haven't had any issues with the freehub or their QRs. The thing is 2,000 miles and some dirt roads isn't as demanding a test as someone riding in the winter and logging many more miles. But, if those hubs were failing I would expect we'd have some comments here and the same goes for the LIGHT's Bitex hubs saying that the hubs are problematic. I haven't received any comments along those lines so I take from that that the hubs are reliable. Another good thing about the Novatec and Bitex hubs is that they have a presence in the USA: www.novatecusa.net/products/hubs/ and www.bitexhubs.com/htm/distributor.php So there's some chance you can get replacement parts if you need them. There's one more consideration. Some riders want to ride what they consider is the best and they're not happy if they don't. If that's the way someone feels about DT Swiss 240 hubs (and I know plenty of people who would insist on them), then they're probably not going to be happy riding anything else even if they do run problem-free. They want to look down and see those DT emblems on the hubs and they want all their riding buddies to see them, too 🙂
Thanks for watching and the question, Rob. Yes, these rims are true tubeless rims not the more common tubeless ready rims. So no sealant is needed. No tape either. Thanks again!
Hey there @jimlangley , thanks for this! Did you need to order tubeless tape if you get the no holes (drainage holes too) option rim? I’m keen to attach tubeless tyres. Also what offset rear dish would you get for the new di2 ultegra disc? Any at all needed? I’m on a 2021 Emonda.
Thanks for watching and the question, dizz1. As far as I can tell browsing their site, Light Bicycles doesn't specify whether or not tape is required for their no-spoke-hole rims. But, as long as there are no holes on the inside, tape shouldn't be needed. Drainage holes would be on the outside not inside of the rim. Any water that gets in around the spoke holes goes into the bottom of the rim not the top where the tire mounts. Now, on the dish/offset of the wheel, that has to do with the hub and rim design/specs. Shimano disc road hubs use the standard 142mm spacing for your Trek frame. Light Bicycles rims may have different offsets, but when they build the wheels they will be centered over the axle which will ensure that the wheel centers in the frame when you put them in. Hope that answers your questions and let me know how you like the wheels if you get some. Thanks again!
@@Mixedbydavey Sorry, I think something I wrote came across wrong. I'll try to explain better. Offset is something that the engineers who design the rims choose, not something you get to choose usually when choosing wheels (unless you're building your own wheels and choosing your own components). I think you're thinking of buying a wheelset from Light Bicycles, right? (I don't see an option to buy road rims only from them so I don't think you're building your own wheels.) What offset is is placing the spoke holes off center on the rim. Offset is used in order to more evenly balance the spoke tension in wheels. It's helpful because a lot of wheels today have disc brakes on the front and wide spacing on the rear for the many more cassette cogs we ride today. Because there's extra things on one side of the wheel taking up space, if the rim engineers offset the spokes it makes it possible to have more even spoke tension. But, this is something that the engineers choose. In other words, when you order wheels you get what they offer, you don't get to tell them what offset you want, you just buy what's available from the rim manufacturer. Most of the wheels I build are disc brake wheels with road 100/142mm or BOOST MTB spacing 110/148mm, and usually the rims I use have offsets of about 3mm, but I do still build road wheels without discs on rims that do not have any offset. I hope this helps explain and I didn't just make it even more confusing. I'm happy to explain more if I didn't clear up any confusion, just let me know, thanks!
@@Mixedbydavey boy, I can't find what you're seeing on their site, dizz? Can you give me the link to what you're looking at so I can see what you see and then I can give you a better answer hopefully.
Thanks for watching and the question, E O. Most shop labor prices are based either on a rate per hour or per job. I think a shop that knows how to work on rims without holes would only charge perhaps 10% more for replacing broken spokes in this type of rim. Here's the video showing it being done by one of the builders at Light Bicycles: ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html If the person fixing the wheel had never done this before I would expect the shop would charge more because they might not have the right stuff on hand and have to get it. And they might need to learn how to do the job by watching the video. But, if you can build a wheel this shouldn't be too challenging for you to learn. Overall, I don't think it would cost a lot more for wheel repairs - but it would definitely depend on the bike shop. Ideally you'd find one that works with rims without holes. Hope this is helpful and thanks again.
Maybe a dumb question, but how do you build a set of tubeless wheels like this where you can't access the nipples? How do you get the nipples into the spoke holes?
You put them in using the valve hole. Screw a metal bolt in the nipple (to make it magnetic) and use a magnet to guide the nipple to the spoke hole. One by one. It’s a labour intensive job.
Hi Eric, no, it's not dumb - it's a great question! In the description below the video I put a link to a video showing how it's done. Here's that link: ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html I think if you watch that you'll see that it's actually not that hard - kind of fun if you like building wheels and want a tubeless wheel that you don't have to use sealant with (if you're running true tubeless tires). I hope this helps answer your question. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Anton, appreciate it! Yes, if you want more protection from flats than the tires themselves provide, you can add sealant. But, with these wheels- unlike with tubeless-ready wheels - you are not forced to use sealant. You can ride without it just fine. Most bicycle tires and car, truck, etc tires work just fine and do not use sealant. But it is nice to have if you’re puncture-prone or ride where flats are common. By not using sealant, you avoid the mess and save a few grams. Hope this clarifies. Thanks again!
@@AntonSostaric that’s right, Anton. If you’re running tubeless tires that don’t require sealant, you can carry a tube to put in if you flat. Or, you could carry a inflater that also injects sealant into the tire like what Vittoria makes. It’s called Vittoria Pitstop. With that you don’t even remove the wheel. All kinds of things cause flats so there are no guarantees that the sealant inflator will work but they usually will for a regular small puncture. If you get a big cut in the tire you’ll need to patch the tire somehow and use the spare tube. Hope this helps.
@@JimLangley1 All good. Just find it fascinating how the quality of what used to be the gold standard in wheel manufacturing has now been leap-frogged by a company that not many have heard of even few years ago. Shimano hubs and the bearings they use are still fantastic though and very easy to service.
@@trizvanov I've never owned the C40s but I have only read glowing reviews about them. It makes me wonder if something unusual happened with your set. Something in the process of making them could have gone wrong maybe or maybe they got smashed during shipping and handling, something like that.
I've got a pair of their widest 700c wheels on order for my gravel bike. Wish I knew about them before buying a set of fulcrum wind 55 wheels for my road bike
When you get some time on the new wheels, if you can comment on how you're liking them that would be great, Andrew. Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@vongdong10 thanks for letting me know, Andrew. I guess the only good thing is that they updated you - so at least you know they're there and doing everything they can to get the wheels done. Working for a bike company that makes our own parts, I know that even getting the raw material to make things is not easy now. That's part of the problem every bike company has today with the high demand. All you can do is try to enjoy the anticipation - having something to look forward to even longer. Hang in there!
@@JimLangley1 Rims have finally arrived. First impressions are that they are very light and look sturdy. The finish on the other hand, not too pleased about. No where near as glossy as the ones in the video. Looks like the outer half have been sanded a lot. I opted for no holes drilled and upon fitting tubeless tyres one of the nipples was leaking air. Leaving it overnight to see if it holds air with the sealant. It's been a long 3 months.
@@vongdong10 thanks a lot for the update, Andrew. It sounds like maybe you got the matte finish? That would be "flat" or "dull" not shiny. But I've been told it's just as difficult to get right as the gloss finish. On the leak, any leak in a tubeless system will escape wherever it can. And, it's the job of the sealant to stop the leak. I would expect it to seal up. Sometimes it isn't until you ride the wheels that the sealant finds all the tiny holes and seals them up. Good luck. I hope yours seal up soon and you have no more leaks. Hope you love the wheels, too.
Thanks for asking, Dizzy. I could inspect any company's wheels, from any country - and I have done many wheelsets over the years and reviewed them in writing for my Jim's Tech Talk column in RoadBikeRider.com (link below in the description). Those reviews were before I had my UA-cam channel. If a company sends wheels and requests a review, I can do more inspections. And if someone who owns wheels would like to come visit me like Scott did for this video, I could inspect their wheels and if possible, practical, I could capture it in a video, too. Also, if anyone has questions about specific wheel brands/companies, please post a comment asking and if I have experience with that wheel brand, I will share my opinion based on working and sometimes riding the wheels. Always happy to help!
@@dizzybuizzy9347 okay, thanks for explaining, Dizzy. In case it's of interest, I own HED wheels (made in Minneapolis) and they've been great. And I also have raced a lot on 3 sets of Trek Bontrager Aeolus aero carbon wheels, which are made in Wisconsin. I've had these wheels since way before I had my channel. I'll think about the possibility of making a video on them (they're all quite used and a little beat-up) - thanks for giving me that idea, something I hadn't thought of. I appreciate your feedback.
Great review as ever. I'll stick to ICAN which have been great for me and considerably cheaper. LB for sure one of the best Chinese manufacturers though
@@JimLangley1 really appreciate your work in bringing us these great videos. Sending you best wishes from the UK, following events in USA and hope our brothers and sisters are doing well over there. God bless 👍
Hi Gavin, The price of the wheels kept getting higher as I added options, DT Swiss 240 EXP Hubs and Sapim Spokes. I had also considered ICAN Wheels especially after watching Jim’s review, at the time I had ordered they didn’t have the DT Swiss 240 EXP in stock. Really wanted to try these Hubs even though it really increased the final cost. Thanks, Scott
Hi Dat, I believe it is the glossy finish. I asked Scott about this and either he will reply to you with a comment or he'll let me know and I'll let you know. Thanks for watching the video and the question.
Hi Dat, The rims are the AR Falcon Pro series with BlackTek finish here is info from the Light Bicycle website “BKT / Black Tek Rims featuring BlackTek come out of the molds as a finished product. The factory finish preserves the outer layer of resin and the carbon is never disturbed after the curing cycle is completed. This is the hardest wearing finish we have ever produced.” Here’s a Link with details www.lightbicycle.com/series/road-disc/rim/falcon-pro They also have painted finishes in the standard series of rims. So far I have been very happy with the wheels , bike seems more responsive and nimble. The wheels save a little bit less than a half pound of weight compared to the DT Swiss aluminum wheels the bike came with. I have no association with Light Bicycle, after lots of research decided they were an option worth trying for me. Scott
Hi Jim, been watching lots of your videos. I do MTB and just started 6months ago. Have dinged 3 alloy wheels (all rear). That gave me 3 wheels to practice on and to start building my own using the old hubs. In terms of durability and my type of riding, should I start looking into carbon rims or should I just stick to alloys. Hope you can help me out with my decision making. Thanx a lot.
Thanks for watching and asking the great question, Hansel. If you are dinging aluminum rims when you're riding your mountain bike, I wouldn't recommend carbon rims. With carbon, you don't "ding" the rims when you hit hard, you can break them. And carbon replacement rims are way, way more expensive than aluminum rims. Also, a broken carbon rim can mean you can't ride home. On a dinged or even bashed aluminum rim you can usually keep right on riding and get home. Now, if you wanted to try carbon rims to get lighter wheels which are nice on climbs, the one way you can do it without having to worry so much if you break a rim is to find a company that has a really good rim replacement policy. You might check out Santa Cruz. I believe they have a no-fault replacement policy. That way you would buy the entire wheelset. www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/reserve-wheels You wouldn't build them yourself. And, then if you broke the rims, they would fix the wheels for you. You'll want to be sure to read up on the rules and regulations of their warranty before buying the wheels. But that is one way you can ride carbon at no risk to your wallet. Okay? I hope this is helpful and happy wheel building! Thanks again for watching and the great question!
@@JimLangley1 thank u for all your responses on all your videos that I have commented on. After actually watching your torough video on wheel building, I have decided that building my own wheel is the direction I would like to do. U have answered my question that the rim I should be leaning on using will be alloy based on my riding style. Other than an MTB fanatic I am also a hobbyist and youtube has given me the platform to learn in detail of whatever I intend to focus from doing my own bike maintenance to even building my own eBike from scratch. I do know that I will have to keep watching your videos over and over again. I guess my next question/requests is if you could pls create a video content on how to identify the correct spokes depends on the type of hub and/or rim to be used (if that made sense). I have seen a video on that topic, but you are somene who knows how to make complicated topic into a simple tasks. Again, thank you so much for your patience and for your replies. Good Luck on your channel.
@@hanselsanjuan8003 Hi Hansel! Thanks for the nice comment. Your timing is excellent ;-) because I am actually working on a video on how to find the right length spokes right now. I hope to finish it by next week. If you subscribe and click the bell icon, you will get notified when a new video goes live and you can also just keep checking. Thanks again!
★ WATCH this video next on another set of Chinese carbon road bike wheels by ICAN cycling ua-cam.com/video/Wb73si7WD-k/v-deo.html
I have 4 pairs of LB rims (1x25mm, 2x35mm, and 1x45mm) which I built up with White Industries hubs. I have been riding them for 6 years and I never had a problem with them.
Awesome to hear that, Bruce. Thank you so much for sharing your review with everyone who watches this!
Thanks for what you do. You have taught me a lot. I want to be able to work on my own bike as a single mom of two boys who both have bikes. I watch bike repair videos and reviews frequently. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the nice comment, JustBeYouTy. The best channel on UA-cam for learning proper bicycle repair procedures is ParkTool's. Here's a link to their channel: ua-cam.com/channels/zaZ1sPWEuZN-I8_XT6AH8g.html They have lots of videos so you will want to do a search to find one on what you're working on. Also, I have been helping people fix bikes and learn bicycle repair online since the Internet first began. If you run into any questions you need help with I'm happy to help. You can leave a comment or just email me at jim at jimlangley dot net and I'll reply as soon as I can. Thanks again.
I picked up a set of AR46 rim brake wheels last year and have had zero issues. Quality build without the astronomical price tag. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another set if/when I'm in the market for a new set of wheels.
Thanks for your review of your Light Bicycle wheels Wai! Appreciate you watching and sharing your great experience.
Just got some AR36 disc yesterday. Getting them built soon.
I've never experienced an issue with my LB wheels. So I expect these to be great. Thanks for this video. Super informative.
First report from Scott is that he likes them a lot, so I think you're going to feel like a new rider on yours, SouthislandHC! Please leave a comment and share how you like them. Thanks a lot for watching!
You're so smart! Thanks for the videos!
You're very welcome, Valiant - thank you!
Glad to see that they are good. Didn't expect much less either. My light bicycle wheels are in shipping, I'm expecting my wheels to arrive in a few weeks :)
I've been riding light bicycle wheels since August 2020, and they are SO quick! I hope yours are, too!
Thanks for sharing your feedback on Light Bicycle wheels, Habeas!
@@HabeasPorpoise if have done a few long rides on them. They are really nice.
Can you please make a review video of the SUPERTEAM clincher carbon wheels? They cost less than $400 🤔
Thanks for watching and for the request, danyclaro47. If SUPERTEAM sends me some wheels or if someone who owns them would like to have me inspect theirs, I could do that just like I did with Scott's. But, I need the wheels to check them out and I don't have access to them at this point. Thanks for watching and for the request and if I can make it happen, I will.
Thank you for the thorough review. Now if I can just find a Jim to thoroughly check all my budget wheel purchases that’d be great.
You're welcome, Late Risers and thanks for watching! Any good wheelbuilder could check wheels like I do so you might be able to find someone to do it if you search for a local wheelsmith with a good reputation. Thanks again.
Thank you for your videos Jim I greatly appreciate it! Your last chinese wheel check video motivated me to throw down with park tools after almost 30 years of riding. I ordered a chinese carbon 650b plus wheelset from eBay and my daughter and I ran them through the checks and amazingly I'd say the $425 set gets a very good grade. The best part is I now have a lot more confidence in any set of wheels I check, though of course it's a new hobby at this point. Thanks again!
Thanks for making my day, Adrian. It's awesome that you are now set up to check your own wheels!! Good for you!! The next step is to build your own. And I have a video for that you probably already know about, but just in case - and for anyone else reading this, here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/XUqul03hbZ8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching and for the wonderful comment!
I have a very similar but deeper rim set - Light Bicycle AR56s which I think are great so thank-you Jim for reassurance coming from an expert wheel builder that the brand earns a pass on these AR45s. You were also right that Continental GP 5000 Tubeless tyres are very hard to fit and the trick was to leave them in the sun for about 5-1Omins - with a mate helping me (so 4 man hands working to pull the tyre over the rim) we got them on without tyre levers.
Thanks a lot for watching and for sharing your great experience with your Light Bicycle AR56s, James. And, that's a good tip to leave tires in the sun to make them a little easier to put on - also getting a mate to help! Thank you!
I just ordered a set of YUSHIN mountain bike wheels with 240 hubs and SAPIM spokes, 30.6 interior width,
someone who built a Yeti SB 115 bike build used them and says they're great even for enduro. Their rims are mixed with GRAPHENE 240MB-ASD937TR-GP(1428g).
Thanks for letting me know, jim dandy. They sound like nice hoops. Look forward to hearing how you like them.
I should maybe watch your other videos on wheelbuilding, but wondering why the wheel doesn’t appear equally centered between the calipers when checking side to side movement. Seems like the caliper on the left is nearly touching and one on the right is much further away… maybe just camera angles, but wondering if that’s just part of building wheels.
Thanks for watching and the question cxspokes! You are right about the camera angles. The wheel is not as far off center as it looks. The thing is that when you true wheels most people myself included true watching one side of the caliper, one pointer. That's because one eye is usually better than the other eye. So in my wheel videos I try to show what you'd see when truing and checking true, which is one pointer on one side of the rim. Park truing stands self center so when you're building wheels and checking wheels, they will bring the rim into center as you work. Sometimes to get the video I want I will push the wheel a little off center in the stand. That's part of the distortion you see, too. Hope that helps explain and thanks for the great question.
Get a Dt Swiss Turing stand with dial gauges, its way better than the "by feel" or "looks good to me" park tool stand.
Thanks for watching and the comment, WizBAng. But I have to disagree. Park's truing stand is a phenomenal tool that lets anyone build great wheels. What you're recommending - DT's Proline stand with dial indicators is among the most expensive truing stands in the world at about $2,500 - maybe even more - they're hard to find right now with the gauges. Wheel quality has more to do with the person using the tool than the tool itself and a competent wheel builder can build great wheels in any truing stand even a home made one or by putting a wheel in the frame, too. Dial indicators in fact can make wheel truing and building more difficult for some wheel builders. But I'm happy to hear you like using yours.
Great video Jim. I'm thinking about buy a pair of Light Bicycle rims and building wheels for bicycle touring. I have a Lynkskey Titanium Gravel bike and am planning on touring with it. I am 200 Lb's and the bike is 20. Just light touring, and commenting . Plan to put a dynamo hub and most likely a Shimano GRX back hub. What spoke hole count and spoke pattern would you recommend for the front and back wheels. Any device is appreciated. MW
Thanks for watching Mark! I’d go 32 spokes cross 3 front and rear. Those should be good for what you’re planning. Sound like fun!! Have a great trip and thanks again! Oh, be sure to choose rims designed for the tires you’re running.
thx for sharing this with us. I see they are popular brand among mountain bikers too.
You're welcome, Johannes, thanks for watching. And thanks for letting me know they're popular with mountain bikers. That's good to know!
@@JimLangley1 but did not see much reviews of them
Very professional....BTW i tested a nipple washer in my CF rim and it won’t quite fit through the larger holes above spoke hole. Seems i must grind washer edge slight to fit thru since modifying the 28 cf hole seems like a bad strategy IMHO
Thanks, Graydon. Yes, some washers are a tad oversize. You might find, as I have, that they will actually pass through the holes once you put a little pressure on them during insertion. They will bow slightly or cup and that lets them pop through - with some washers anyway. BUT BE SURE to do this while keeping the washer captive on a spoke or tool so that it can't fall inside the rim and get lost and rattle around in there. The easier option is to find a sanding bit and gently removing a tiny amount of material to enlarge the rim holes. This won't harm the rim because you're removing hardly any material on holes that already exist and not leaving any jagged edges. Hope this is helpful. Thanks again!
For the price I would expect them to be good, could get dura ace for similar price
Yes, that's a good point, Geoff - thanks for giving that perspective. These are not budget wheels. Scott upgraded by going with the DT Swiss 240 hubs and the tubeless (no-holes) rims and that added cost. Thanks for watching and the helpful comment.
Would be nice if tension meters were created with Bluetooth data sharing on a phone app. Otherwise, it’s an Ass pain to measure, Input values on Park Tool web app, then measure next spoke.
Thanks for watching, Sav-oir. I think you have a good idea there. My Wheel Fanatyk has a wired connection and a foot pedal. Press the foot pedal to upload the value to the spreadsheet. I don’t record the values though so don’t use that feature much. But it’s easy to use.
Hey Jim, If I normally build with a 12mm Sapim nipple but switch to a 14mm sapim polyax should I remove 2mm from my spoke lengths? Have you noticed any advantage with the polyax nipples?
Glad to see these wheels turned out well for Scott. I was looking at ordering a pair as well but with Novatec hubs.
Thanks for watching and the question, Aaron. I usually choose DT Swiss spokes and nipples, Aaron. For Sapim, I am pretty sure that when you use their calculator, they ask you to specify which of their nipples you will be using and the calculator gives you the correct spoke length for whichever nipple you choose. Here is a link to their calculator so that you can try it: www.sapim.be/spoke-calculator I hope this helps answer your question and if you get the Light Bicycle wheels please leave a comment on how you like them. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks for the response. I can't get an accurate calculation using the Sapim calculator, so I checked the DT Swiss calculator. That seems to give the correct lengths and has a dropdown for nipple lengths(matches spoke lengths that worked on a previous build). The DT Swiss calculator does recommend a shorter spoke with a longer nipple, but only a 1mm difference for 12mm vs 14mm nipple length.
@@aaron___6014 Good job checking DT's calculator to figure it out, Aaron! Have fun building that wheel! Here's a link to DT's spoke length calculator if anyone needs it: spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/
This seems to be the way to go to cut out the middle man of marketing. Most of the big companies are using these guys anyway.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Kwahi, appreciate it!
Well, now I want a pair of these wheels!
Thanks for watching and commenting, Owen!
How would you compare this Lightbicycle wheelset with the ICAN wheelset you reviewed? Curious since this was brought up at the beginning of the video and referenced quite many times.
Thanks for watching and the question, Gabriel. As far as the quality of the build (just the construction), the 2 wheelsets are comparable. The difference is that the ICANs are a stock set of wheels and the LIGHTs were built to Scott's specs. So they boast DT Swiss 240 hubs and non-drilled carbon tubeless rims. Those would be considered upgrades and they were reflected in the higher price Scott paid for his wheels. Scott hasn't reported any negative issues with his wheels and my ICANs have been holding up great.
I have also been riding a set of ICAN mountain bike wheels so I actually have experience with 2 sets. If you're interested in how ICAN did with that build, here's the inspection video ua-cam.com/video/3yPjw0xgu4U/v-deo.html and here's the ride video: ua-cam.com/video/Bz87vKthgxg/v-deo.html Overall, based on my experience with both brands (and the many positive comments), I think you'll end up with fine wheels with either of these brands.
Thanks for the prompt reply, Jim. Appreciate your professional feedback on these wheelsets. I’ve watched the ICAN video before. Hence, I know you’ve had experience with both and was curious bout your thoughts. I personally own an ICAN FL50 rim brake wheelset and it has been great. Thinking to get a carbon wheelset for my disc brake bike and been looking into lightbicycle too as an alternative option. Are there any concerns with the Novatec hubs on the ICAN or D01 hubs? Also, any thoughts on the Bitex hubs from Light Bicycle? Assuming the hubs are somewhat equal (similar specs) and not the high end DT Swiss 240 exp’s, between these two brands, which would you go with and why?
Appreciate your feedback. Thank you once again for all the informative videos you put out.
@@gabrielfong another good question, Gabriel - if you haven't yet, I hope you'll subscribe to my channel, keep watching and commenting, thanks. On hubs, I don't think too many people would discount DT Swiss hubs, Swiss-made and with available replacement parts albeit at high prices and sometimes long waits to get them these days. DT has a rep for durability, smooth running and the highest quality. That said, Novatec has been making hubs for so many wheels for so long and they too have a great reputation, maybe not the same as DT but I know wheel companies that love their hubs.
Part of my ICAN Aero 40 test was to try out their hubs. I actually asked for DT hubs but they said to try their hubs. I was happy to do it and in 2,000 plus miles on them I haven't been able to affect their performance at all. Now I live in Northern California. We get some rain but nowhere near what the rest of the USA gets and we don't get snow except once in a blue moon at elevation. To try to beat up the hubs I ride a lot on gravel roads and these hubs don't seem to mind that a bit. I also haven't had any issues with the freehub or their QRs. The thing is 2,000 miles and some dirt roads isn't as demanding a test as someone riding in the winter and logging many more miles.
But, if those hubs were failing I would expect we'd have some comments here and the same goes for the LIGHT's Bitex hubs saying that the hubs are problematic. I haven't received any comments along those lines so I take from that that the hubs are reliable. Another good thing about the Novatec and Bitex hubs is that they have a presence in the USA: www.novatecusa.net/products/hubs/ and www.bitexhubs.com/htm/distributor.php So there's some chance you can get replacement parts if you need them.
There's one more consideration. Some riders want to ride what they consider is the best and they're not happy if they don't. If that's the way someone feels about DT Swiss 240 hubs (and I know plenty of people who would insist on them), then they're probably not going to be happy riding anything else even if they do run problem-free. They want to look down and see those DT emblems on the hubs and they want all their riding buddies to see them, too 🙂
"run the wheel without sealant" ? Also still may need rim tape depending upon tire selection.
Thanks for watching and the question, Rob. Yes, these rims are true tubeless rims not the more common tubeless ready rims. So no sealant is needed. No tape either. Thanks again!
They are great gutted i can't afford them right nw but i'll buy some :)
Thanks for watching and keep saving! You'll get there, Qui!
Hey there @jimlangley , thanks for this! Did you need to order tubeless tape if you get the no holes (drainage holes too) option rim? I’m keen to attach tubeless tyres. Also what offset rear dish would you get for the new di2 ultegra disc? Any at all needed? I’m on a 2021 Emonda.
Thanks for watching and the question, dizz1. As far as I can tell browsing their site, Light Bicycles doesn't specify whether or not tape is required for their no-spoke-hole rims. But, as long as there are no holes on the inside, tape shouldn't be needed. Drainage holes would be on the outside not inside of the rim. Any water that gets in around the spoke holes goes into the bottom of the rim not the top where the tire mounts. Now, on the dish/offset of the wheel, that has to do with the hub and rim design/specs. Shimano disc road hubs use the standard 142mm spacing for your Trek frame. Light Bicycles rims may have different offsets, but when they build the wheels they will be centered over the axle which will ensure that the wheel centers in the frame when you put them in. Hope that answers your questions and let me know how you like the wheels if you get some. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 thanks man! So you don’t think offset is necessary?
@@Mixedbydavey Sorry, I think something I wrote came across wrong. I'll try to explain better. Offset is something that the engineers who design the rims choose, not something you get to choose usually when choosing wheels (unless you're building your own wheels and choosing your own components). I think you're thinking of buying a wheelset from Light Bicycles, right? (I don't see an option to buy road rims only from them so I don't think you're building your own wheels.)
What offset is is placing the spoke holes off center on the rim. Offset is used in order to more evenly balance the spoke tension in wheels. It's helpful because a lot of wheels today have disc brakes on the front and wide spacing on the rear for the many more cassette cogs we ride today. Because there's extra things on one side of the wheel taking up space, if the rim engineers offset the spokes it makes it possible to have more even spoke tension. But, this is something that the engineers choose. In other words, when you order wheels you get what they offer, you don't get to tell them what offset you want, you just buy what's available from the rim manufacturer.
Most of the wheels I build are disc brake wheels with road 100/142mm or BOOST MTB spacing 110/148mm, and usually the rims I use have offsets of about 3mm, but I do still build road wheels without discs on rims that do not have any offset. I hope this helps explain and I didn't just make it even more confusing. I'm happy to explain more if I didn't clear up any confusion, just let me know, thanks!
@@JimLangley1 ah that’s strange as they give you 3 different offset options?
@@Mixedbydavey boy, I can't find what you're seeing on their site, dizz? Can you give me the link to what you're looking at so I can see what you see and then I can give you a better answer hopefully.
Lol just bought exact the same wheel set but its a 26 inch.
Thanks for watching and commenting, liu! I think you’ll like those wheels.
Nice video hi from Colombia🇨🇴
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Alex, appreciate it!
Would be interesting to know that approximate labor cost of “fixing” the wheels
Thanks for watching and the question, E O. Most shop labor prices are based either on a rate per hour or per job. I think a shop that knows how to work on rims without holes would only charge perhaps 10% more for replacing broken spokes in this type of rim. Here's the video showing it being done by one of the builders at Light Bicycles: ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html If the person fixing the wheel had never done this before I would expect the shop would charge more because they might not have the right stuff on hand and have to get it. And they might need to learn how to do the job by watching the video. But, if you can build a wheel this shouldn't be too challenging for you to learn. Overall, I don't think it would cost a lot more for wheel repairs - but it would definitely depend on the bike shop. Ideally you'd find one that works with rims without holes. Hope this is helpful and thanks again.
I hope you can also make a review of Yoeleo wheels
Thanks for watching and the request, Hero.
Maybe a dumb question, but how do you build a set of tubeless wheels like this where you can't access the nipples? How do you get the nipples into the spoke holes?
You put them in using the valve hole. Screw a metal bolt in the nipple (to make it magnetic) and use a magnet to guide the nipple to the spoke hole. One by one. It’s a labour intensive job.
@@Tuslareb ugh. That sounds like a nightmare.
Hi Eric, no, it's not dumb - it's a great question! In the description below the video I put a link to a video showing how it's done. Here's that link: ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html I think if you watch that you'll see that it's actually not that hard - kind of fun if you like building wheels and want a tubeless wheel that you don't have to use sealant with (if you're running true tubeless tires). I hope this helps answer your question. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Hi there thanks for the very informative video. You said that sealant isnt necessary with this wheel. isn't the sealant necessary to seal a puncture?
Thanks for watching and commenting, Anton, appreciate it! Yes, if you want more protection from flats than the tires themselves provide, you can add sealant. But, with these wheels- unlike with tubeless-ready wheels - you are not forced to use sealant. You can ride without it just fine. Most bicycle tires and car, truck, etc tires work just fine and do not use sealant. But it is nice to have if you’re puncture-prone or ride where flats are common. By not using sealant, you avoid the mess and save a few grams. Hope this clarifies. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 thanks Jim. But if I don’t use sealant and puncture I’m in trouble right? Can I stick a tube in ?
@@AntonSostaric that’s right, Anton. If you’re running tubeless tires that don’t require sealant, you can carry a tube to put in if you flat. Or, you could carry a inflater that also injects sealant into the tire like what Vittoria makes. It’s called Vittoria Pitstop. With that you don’t even remove the wheel. All kinds of things cause flats so there are no guarantees that the sealant inflator will work but they usually will for a regular small puncture. If you get a big cut in the tire you’ll need to patch the tire somehow and use the spare tube. Hope this helps.
Both side to side and up and down movement is less than on the DuraAce C40 tubs that I race on.
Thanks for watching and the comparison to your D-A wheels, Timur - that’s good to know!
@@JimLangley1 All good. Just find it fascinating how the quality of what used to be the gold standard in wheel manufacturing has now been leap-frogged by a company that not many have heard of even few years ago.
Shimano hubs and the bearings they use are still fantastic though and very easy to service.
@@trizvanov I've never owned the C40s but I have only read glowing reviews about them. It makes me wonder if something unusual happened with your set. Something in the process of making them could have gone wrong maybe or maybe they got smashed during shipping and handling, something like that.
Good insight. Thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting, Jo Ro, I'm happy to hear my video was helpful.
I've got a pair of their widest 700c wheels on order for my gravel bike. Wish I knew about them before buying a set of fulcrum wind 55 wheels for my road bike
When you get some time on the new wheels, if you can comment on how you're liking them that would be great, Andrew. Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@JimLangley1 I just asked Light Bicycle for an update and they said shipping will be around early May. Damn Covid.
@@vongdong10 thanks for letting me know, Andrew. I guess the only good thing is that they updated you - so at least you know they're there and doing everything they can to get the wheels done. Working for a bike company that makes our own parts, I know that even getting the raw material to make things is not easy now. That's part of the problem every bike company has today with the high demand. All you can do is try to enjoy the anticipation - having something to look forward to even longer. Hang in there!
@@JimLangley1 Rims have finally arrived. First impressions are that they are very light and look sturdy. The finish on the other hand, not too pleased about. No where near as glossy as the ones in the video. Looks like the outer half have been sanded a lot. I opted for no holes drilled and upon fitting tubeless tyres one of the nipples was leaking air. Leaving it overnight to see if it holds air with the sealant. It's been a long 3 months.
@@vongdong10 thanks a lot for the update, Andrew. It sounds like maybe you got the matte finish? That would be "flat" or "dull" not shiny. But I've been told it's just as difficult to get right as the gloss finish. On the leak, any leak in a tubeless system will escape wherever it can. And, it's the job of the sealant to stop the leak. I would expect it to seal up. Sometimes it isn't until you ride the wheels that the sealant finds all the tiny holes and seals them up. Good luck. I hope yours seal up soon and you have no more leaks. Hope you love the wheels, too.
And, there are no American Companies to do the same with?
Thanks for asking, Dizzy. I could inspect any company's wheels, from any country - and I have done many wheelsets over the years and reviewed them in writing for my Jim's Tech Talk column in RoadBikeRider.com (link below in the description). Those reviews were before I had my UA-cam channel. If a company sends wheels and requests a review, I can do more inspections.
And if someone who owns wheels would like to come visit me like Scott did for this video, I could inspect their wheels and if possible, practical, I could capture it in a video, too. Also, if anyone has questions about specific wheel brands/companies, please post a comment asking and if I have experience with that wheel brand, I will share my opinion based on working and sometimes riding the wheels. Always happy to help!
@@JimLangley1 - You seem like a nice guy, but, I hate anything made in China!!
@@dizzybuizzy9347 okay, thanks for explaining, Dizzy. In case it's of interest, I own HED wheels (made in Minneapolis) and they've been great. And I also have raced a lot on 3 sets of Trek Bontrager Aeolus aero carbon wheels, which are made in Wisconsin. I've had these wheels since way before I had my channel. I'll think about the possibility of making a video on them (they're all quite used and a little beat-up) - thanks for giving me that idea, something I hadn't thought of. I appreciate your feedback.
Where are you located? I bought carbon wheels from LightCarbon, would appreciate it if you can review it
Hi Rudy - I am in Northern California. Thanks for watching!
Great review as ever. I'll stick to ICAN which have been great for me and considerably cheaper. LB for sure one of the best Chinese manufacturers though
Appreciate you watching and sharing your feedback on the ICAN wheels, Gavin. Mine have been great, too.
@@JimLangley1 really appreciate your work in bringing us these great videos. Sending you best wishes from the UK, following events in USA and hope our brothers and sisters are doing well over there. God bless 👍
@@gavinfinlayson485 Thank you for wishing us well. Here's hoping you all stay safe in the UK, too. God bless you.
@@JimLangley1 💕
Hi Gavin,
The price of the wheels kept getting higher as I added options, DT Swiss 240 EXP Hubs and Sapim Spokes.
I had also considered ICAN Wheels especially after watching Jim’s review, at the time I had ordered they didn’t have the DT Swiss 240 EXP in stock. Really wanted to try these Hubs even though it really increased the final cost.
Thanks, Scott
Nice informative video.
Thanks for watching and the very nice comment, Christoffer - appreciate it very much!
Which finish are these wheels?
Hi Dat, I believe it is the glossy finish. I asked Scott about this and either he will reply to you with a comment or he'll let me know and I'll let you know. Thanks for watching the video and the question.
Hi Dat,
The rims are the AR Falcon Pro series with BlackTek finish here is info from the Light Bicycle website
“BKT / Black Tek
Rims featuring BlackTek come out of the molds as a finished product. The factory finish preserves the outer layer of resin and the carbon is never disturbed after the curing cycle is completed. This is the hardest wearing finish we have ever produced.”
Here’s a Link with details
www.lightbicycle.com/series/road-disc/rim/falcon-pro
They also have painted finishes in the standard series of rims.
So far I have been very happy with the wheels , bike seems more responsive and nimble. The wheels save a little bit less than a half pound of weight compared to the DT Swiss aluminum wheels the bike came with.
I have no association with Light Bicycle, after lots of research decided they were an option worth trying for me.
Scott
Hi Jim, been watching lots of your videos. I do MTB and just started 6months ago. Have dinged 3 alloy wheels (all rear). That gave me 3 wheels to practice on and to start building my own using the old hubs.
In terms of durability and my type of riding, should I start looking into carbon rims or should I just stick to alloys. Hope you can help me out with my decision making. Thanx a lot.
Thanks for watching and asking the great question, Hansel. If you are dinging aluminum rims when you're riding your mountain bike, I wouldn't recommend carbon rims. With carbon, you don't "ding" the rims when you hit hard, you can break them. And carbon replacement rims are way, way more expensive than aluminum rims. Also, a broken carbon rim can mean you can't ride home. On a dinged or even bashed aluminum rim you can usually keep right on riding and get home.
Now, if you wanted to try carbon rims to get lighter wheels which are nice on climbs, the one way you can do it without having to worry so much if you break a rim is to find a company that has a really good rim replacement policy. You might check out Santa Cruz. I believe they have a no-fault replacement policy. That way you would buy the entire wheelset. www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/reserve-wheels You wouldn't build them yourself.
And, then if you broke the rims, they would fix the wheels for you. You'll want to be sure to read up on the rules and regulations of their warranty before buying the wheels. But that is one way you can ride carbon at no risk to your wallet.
Okay? I hope this is helpful and happy wheel building! Thanks again for watching and the great question!
@@JimLangley1 thank you so much. Very helpful indeed.
@@hanselsanjuan8003 you're welcome!
@@JimLangley1 thank u for all your responses on all your videos that I have commented on. After actually watching your torough video on wheel building, I have decided that building my own wheel is the direction I would like to do. U have answered my question that the rim I should be leaning on using will be alloy based on my riding style. Other than an MTB fanatic I am also a hobbyist and youtube has given me the platform to learn in detail of whatever I intend to focus from doing my own bike maintenance to even building my own eBike from scratch. I do know that I will have to keep watching your videos over and over again.
I guess my next question/requests is if you could pls create a video content on how to identify the correct spokes depends on the type of hub and/or rim to be used (if that made sense). I have seen a video on that topic, but you are somene who knows how to make complicated topic into a simple tasks. Again, thank you so much for your patience and for your replies. Good Luck on your channel.
@@hanselsanjuan8003 Hi Hansel! Thanks for the nice comment. Your timing is excellent ;-) because I am actually working on a video on how to find the right length spokes right now. I hope to finish it by next week. If you subscribe and click the bell icon, you will get notified when a new video goes live and you can also just keep checking. Thanks again!
I guess I’m spending the money and getting myself some lights!
Thanks for watching and commenting, Weakndatkennys. If you get the wheels, please let us know how you like them.