Дуже цікаво вчитися у вас,пане майстер,я перечинив багато таких годинників,але вони всі нашого виготовлення СРСР,зараз таких будильників не роблять,мені б було цікаво починити ваш будильник,закордонний,мені сподобався ваш знімач ручок та інші інструменти 😊❤
What could be done with those zinc feet, I suppose, is to give them a clear coat so that they won't further erode the brass. I just bought a 1938 Big Ben style 4 that I'll be having to clean at some point so these videos are all really good info. Trying to learn as much as I can.
Interesting how the later style 5's utilize the pressed on alarm setting mechanism. As you most likely know, the ones made from 39-45 or so didn't have that. It almost looks like you could get the alarm setting knob off with a small pin punch since it has a hole in it. Without those knob pullers, it's a strictly ad-libbed fiasco to get those knobs off... Well, not entirely. It'd do-able. I have a style 6 Big Ben Chime alarm with those same knobs that I'm working on in my GPWS series. All I can say is, I've learned quite a lot from having to experience those pressed on knobs! With all that said, you did a heck of a job. I'm sure whoever got this clock back was happy with it.
Thanks Greg, I agree, those pressed on knobs have turned a lot of these Big Bens into parts movements. I replaced the dial on this one, just not enough time to show everything.
Why did use red and green oilers? What is the difference? Where can I get a screwdriver like the one you used? Another excellent video I always learn a lot. Thanks for doing them.
Oilers are generally sold as a set. In the set I used there are four oilers. Each color indicates size of oiler. The red oiler is the largest used for large pivots. Green is next size smaller used for medium sized pivots. Goal is to oil the pivot until oil can be seen to fill air gap between pivot and hole in the plate without running down pivot or spreading onto the plate. If over oiled, the oil will spread onto plate, capillary action of the oil will then pull all oil out of pivot area and that pivot will run dry and wear rapidly. If correct amount of oil is applied the oil will stay put and create a seal that will help prevent dirt and dust from getting between pivot and the hole. Sometimes one dab with the oiler is needed and sometimes several is required to fill the air gap. As the end result is the correct amount of oil all is good. The older screwdriver I am using is a vintage one. To my knowledge they are not making them like that any more. Might need to look on someplace like ebay and hope to find one similar like the ones below. www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Lot-Jewelers-Screwdrivers-Replacement-Bits-Watchmakers-Watch-Tools/363308042852?hash=item5496d8ca64:g:NAEAAOSwNqNgPBO3
I have the same clock but with a black dial and luminous hands from 1948. The glass is very loose and slides around. Do you recall if the glass is a pressure fit to the bezel or is there a gasket of some kind to hold it? I suspect that someone in the past replaced the glass and used too small a glass diameter. Thanks for all your videos!
@@johnhannon I have seen some dials on ebay, that are of questionable quality. I make my own, printed on cardstock, so I can control the outcome. There were multiple dial styles fitted according to model and date of manufacture.
I remember seeing that one in your collection. Black face and white numerals. That's a Great sounding one yu have, Those are a collectors item, hold on ito it.
For this size of clock, a synthetic clock oil with the qualities of Moebius 9020 would be a good. The subject of proper oiling can quickly escalate into some heated discussions. What works good today can change tomorrow due to new developments and improvements in lubercant. New oils have been developed since this article has been written but a good guide to clock lubricating can be found at: theindex.nawcc.org/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf
Brass loop spring, I believe you are speaking about the click spring. Not a problem they can be replaced, A lot of these were produced so still many NOS parts around, and lots of parts movements out there as well.
@@jamesmartin5370 any place in specific i can get parts i searched for westclox movements, and even westclox movement parts and couldn't seem to find anything, and im not a horologist or a repairer of clocks but very mechanically inclined. I put a little pressure on time mainspring gear and moved the balace wheel to see if it would go but nothing, not sure if movement is bound up, idk....it does need a cleaning its has corrosion specs and i assume metal dust from alarm paddle from striking housing, and gunk.
@@tmaq9726 a few below: alarmclockdoc.com/AlarmClockParts.htm www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/westclox-baby-ben-big-ben-mainsprings-time-spring picclick.com/4-Westclox-Big-Ben-Alarm-Springs-In-363575498032.html?refresh=1 timesavers.com/i-24051660-westclox-big-ben-barrel-with-mainspring.html www.ebay.com/itm/224573940309?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 clockhistory.com/westclox/other/repair/mainsprings.htm
I fabricated that puller about 30 years ago, a simple puller can be made from a common C-clamp. Hand work the C-clamp pad so it will slide under the knob on the movement. Center the knob with the screw handle of the C-clamp, put a small pin through the hole in the knob that contacts the arbor. Then tighten the C-clamp against that small pin and the knob will pull off the arbor.
Дуже цікаво вчитися у вас,пане майстер,я перечинив багато таких годинників,але вони всі нашого виготовлення СРСР,зараз таких будильників не роблять,мені б було цікаво починити ваш будильник,закордонний,мені сподобався ваш знімач ручок та інші інструменти 😊❤
Дякую, радий, що вам сподобалось.
great job. When replacing a dial like this, you should definitely take some artistic liberties and sign them.
What could be done with those zinc feet, I suppose, is to give them a clear coat so that they won't further erode the brass. I just bought a 1938 Big Ben style 4 that I'll be having to clean at some point so these videos are all really good info. Trying to learn as much as I can.
Yes, any type of barrier that will isolate the zinc from oxygen and surrounding metals will inhibit its reaction and oxidation rate.
Interesting how the later style 5's utilize the pressed on alarm setting mechanism. As you most likely know, the ones made from 39-45 or so didn't have that. It almost looks like you could get the alarm setting knob off with a small pin punch since it has a hole in it.
Without those knob pullers, it's a strictly ad-libbed fiasco to get those knobs off... Well, not entirely. It'd do-able. I have a style 6 Big Ben Chime alarm with those same knobs that I'm working on in my GPWS series. All I can say is, I've learned quite a lot from having to experience those pressed on knobs!
With all that said, you did a heck of a job. I'm sure whoever got this clock back was happy with it.
Thanks Greg,
I agree, those pressed on knobs have turned a lot of these Big Bens into parts movements.
I replaced the dial on this one, just not enough time to show everything.
Why did use red and green oilers? What is the difference? Where can I get a screwdriver like the one you used?
Another excellent video I always learn a lot.
Thanks for doing them.
Oilers are generally sold as a set.
In the set I used there are four oilers.
Each color indicates size of oiler.
The red oiler is the largest used for large pivots.
Green is next size smaller used for medium sized pivots.
Goal is to oil the pivot until oil can be seen to fill air gap between pivot and hole in the plate without running down pivot or spreading onto the plate.
If over oiled, the oil will spread onto plate, capillary action of the oil will then pull all oil out of pivot area and that pivot will run dry and wear rapidly.
If correct amount of oil is applied the oil will stay put and create a seal that will help prevent dirt and dust from getting between pivot and the hole.
Sometimes one dab with the oiler is needed and sometimes several is required to fill the air gap.
As the end result is the correct amount of oil all is good.
The older screwdriver I am using is a vintage one.
To my knowledge they are not making them like that any more.
Might need to look on someplace like ebay and hope to find one similar like the ones below.
www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Lot-Jewelers-Screwdrivers-Replacement-Bits-Watchmakers-Watch-Tools/363308042852?hash=item5496d8ca64:g:NAEAAOSwNqNgPBO3
I have the same clock but with a black dial and luminous hands from 1948. The glass is very loose and slides around. Do you recall if the glass is a pressure fit to the bezel or is there a gasket of some kind to hold it? I suspect that someone in the past replaced the glass and used too small a glass diameter. Thanks for all your videos!
Pressure fit, I show removal and install of glass in above video.
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks! I will take a look, I must have missed it. Do you know if there are any replacement sources for the black dial?
@@johnhannon I have seen some dials on ebay, that are of questionable quality.
I make my own, printed on cardstock, so I can control the outcome.
There were multiple dial styles fitted according to model and date of manufacture.
i have a westclox big ben with a chime alarm. in my clock collection.
I remember seeing that one in your collection.
Black face and white numerals.
That's a Great sounding one yu have,
Those are a collectors item, hold on ito it.
19:11 James, what do you use to oil the balance pivots? Thank you. Love these informative videos!
For this size of clock, a synthetic clock oil with the qualities of Moebius 9020 would be a good.
The subject of proper oiling can quickly escalate into some heated discussions.
What works good today can change tomorrow due to new developments and improvements in lubercant.
New oils have been developed since this article has been written but a good guide to clock lubricating can be found at: theindex.nawcc.org/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf
How can I get ahold of you?
Here : www.whitmancountyhistoricalsociety.org/clockrepair
Or you can email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com
I have this same movement in my style 5, but is not working, the brass loop spring holding the ratchet lever is broken on time mainspring, am I S.O.L?
Brass loop spring, I believe you are speaking about the click spring.
Not a problem they can be replaced, A lot of these were produced so still many NOS parts around, and lots of parts movements out there as well.
@@jamesmartin5370 any place in specific i can get parts i searched for westclox movements, and even westclox movement parts and couldn't seem to find anything, and im not a horologist or a repairer of clocks but very mechanically inclined. I put a little pressure on time mainspring gear and moved the balace wheel to see if it would go but nothing, not sure if movement is bound up, idk....it does need a cleaning its has corrosion specs and i assume metal dust from alarm paddle from striking housing, and gunk.
@@tmaq9726
a few below:
alarmclockdoc.com/AlarmClockParts.htm
www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/westclox-baby-ben-big-ben-mainsprings-time-spring
picclick.com/4-Westclox-Big-Ben-Alarm-Springs-In-363575498032.html?refresh=1
timesavers.com/i-24051660-westclox-big-ben-barrel-with-mainspring.html
www.ebay.com/itm/224573940309?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
clockhistory.com/westclox/other/repair/mainsprings.htm
I find myself needing that knob remover tool you used at 6:57. Any idea where a guy can get one?
I fabricated that puller about 30 years ago, a simple puller can be made from a common C-clamp.
Hand work the C-clamp pad so it will slide under the knob on the movement.
Center the knob with the screw handle of the C-clamp, put a small pin through the hole in the knob that contacts the arbor.
Then tighten the C-clamp against that small pin and the knob will pull off the arbor.
Were the dials radium with this model? Thanks
Non-radium dials and hands on this one, see below
clockhistory.com/0/westclox/series/series-13-1/style-28-1.html
🙋👏👍💪