My Laser won’t cut out my wood design all the way!
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2024
- In this video we talk about the issue of your laser not cutting out your designs from wood. What’s the reason? are you doing something wrong? I will demonstrate the vast setting difference in 3 different 1/4” wood products and what to look for if your having troubles. What do you do when your getting inconsistent cutting results. What does a glue pocket look like when your cutting? I will show you.
Start from here video: • Start From Here in Pre... - Фільми й анімація
Start here. Amazing, it's under my nose and I never paid attention to it. That is a top tip, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
great information! I appreciate all your tips and tricks! I binge watched a ton of your videos all day Saturday....Learned so much! Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you!
YOU ARE ALWAYS SO KIND AND HELPFUL. IT IS MUCH APPRECIATED
I appreciate your comment!
Thanks so much for you informative videos...its so important for ppl to learn about the process of manufacturing wood pieces so that they can better understand the real issue and how to resolve them. Thanks for taking the time to do this!!!! I really appreciate yiur efforts!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
Loved the videos. I've only been into laser cutting for a little over a year now. Started on a Diode and have since upgraded to a C02. I have identified all of the issued you have listed and always thought I was doing something wrong. Now I know. I'm still learning - just now figuring out how to cleanly cut 3mm MDF with my 50w co2 (and I'm having issues but I'll figure things out). Thanks again and I've subscribed.
thanks for watching and the sub, I appreciate it.
Incredible advice as always! This will be VERY helpful. Thank you! Love your videos.
You are so welcome! thank you for watching
I found the start from recently. What a life saver
I agree! thank for watching
Good tips and I didn’t know the trick of recutting a spot…as always, you have a very informative video that’s easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you SO much for what you do for our laser community. You have helped me so much.
Thank you for watching and the kind comments. I really appreciate it!
Oh that is what I was looking for, The start over from the goof. I was engraving on a door mat and the computer stopped, I didn't have it plugged in and the battery died, and I was trying to figure out how to start it where it stopped, now I know how to start it and finish my burn. Thanks for this. I learn so much from ur video's.
Ya once you use it it’s a game changer!
You are very competent in what you do, thank you very much for all you videos! I'm a new in this field and I need you help please.
Great confirmation to what we are experiencing and attempting to learn from. When you're a newbie, it's tough to tell if it's us, or is it the material? A few things have pushed us to add enhancements to our system which has been very helpful, yet not a 100% solve all.
We experienced the "I can't cut through this" with 1/8" (3mm) birch ply with our 10w in a few cases. Interestingly, a few sparks fly on occasion as well. So glad to know it's not just us, its more so material variances.
thanks for the comment and watching
EXCELLENt info as always. THANK YOU!!!!
thank you for your suggestions. Worked great. I fiddled around with the speed and didnt touch the power. Great advise
Glad it helped
Thanks for sharing all your great information!
My pleasure! Thank you for watching.
Thanks for your hard work and videos. I just received a Creality Falcon 2 - 22 watt diode laser and have a lot of learning to do.
congrats on the new laser. ! thanks for watching
You are such a awsome teacher
thank you, I appreciate the comment
good information as always! thanks Robert!
Thanks for watching!
This was such helpful information!!! Thanks so much!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips ! Thanks for sharing
You are so welcome!
Great info! Very helpful thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for all the great info
Our pleasure!
Just ran into this exact issue today with my Epilog 24 x 36 dual source. 80w CO2/50w Fiber. I Was really bummed out since it was not a cheap machine and to find out it barely cut through 1/4” ply and in some places left a tiny amount of wood to keep part from breaking free. Well your video makes me feel better. After really looking at this ply it is a maple 5 distinct layer ply with the thin black looking glue between each layer. This is probably an outdoor tough wood. It left lots of soot and had a lot of glue cavities. I bought it from a specialty wood yard a paid a lot for it but in the end it’s just not laser ply. Thank you so much for your video it made me feel a lot better about my purchase.
oh man, it’s frustrating, thanks for watching and the comments
great topic. i ran into this last week with a different plywood from lowes.
thanks for the comment and watching. I appreciate it!
Great video. I'm running into this daily with 1/4 baltic birch. Was fulling my hair out on why I had to keep adjusting the power and speed.
yes it’s gotten bad even with the good stuff. I cut a small test square on every piece before I start cutting.
Great info. Thanks!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful I appreciate it!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you! I run into that also if material is warped a little and needs another cut to finish.
yes it seems that the quality of wood in not getting any better. thank for watching.
I really love your videos, you've helped me so much since I got my Thunderlaser earlier this year. My question is twofold, how is your honeycomb so clean? And 2 how does the underside of your cut look as I find I almost need to sand the underside more than the top.
Regards from Michael in Australia 🇦🇺 😀
I usually clean my honeycomb once a month. it’s easier and faster to clean that way. la awesome from the dollar store works great, scrub down let it sit repeat, wash off with water and blow dry with air compressor. I have external air compressor that delivered 35 psi to nosel when cutting. this will make a HUGE difference in you performance when cutting. thanks for your comments!
From my experience in the joinery industry it looks to me that the base material is HDF not MDF. If this is the case the substrate is denser and has a higher glue content. When machining HDF on a spindle CNC or a regular saw or any type of wood working machine, spindle speeds and fed speeds must be adjusted compared to MDF.
Therefore, when I machine HDF on the laser I always do multiple passes and not try to cut through on one pass.
As a foot note to your comments on the MDF/HDF today compared to yesteryear. Glue is cheaper than wood, so countries like China and others, increase the glue content and decrease the wood content to increase their profit margin. You only get what you pay for. Here in Australia most of our MDF/HDF is E0 or E1 which means it is low or does not contain UF glue which is cheap as chips. From experiance the darker the substrate the higher the glue content.
Great video!
I really appreciate your insight! Thanks for the comments.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your “THANKS”I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this video, i was getting soo pissed that my laser was not cutting through my maple MDF and not i know way
it’s frustrating
Just getting into laser cutting and the content you put out is always very helpful. Thank you. Do you ever wish you went with 130w instead of a 100w?
not so far I work with allot of 130s and if your doing small engraving they can be tricky. the 100 watt does everything I need. mostly 1/8” and 1/4”. some 1/2” occasionally.
@Computer Creationz perfect. We are placing our order for a 51 next week and were leaning to the 100 but considered the 130. I think we'll stick to the 100
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Another great video. Lots of great info for the co1 newbie (I.E. myself). I just ordered the nova 35 100W, are you planning on do a review of it? I hope so, it would be of great interest to me and I am sure many others. Yours looks different than the pic Thunder has on their website. I hope you can do one. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Dan :0)
That's the plan! towards summer time
Great Video - just what I needed. Unfortunately, being flexible means real dollars for the sheets that arent saveable. I've gone through several today and yesterday. Birch Ply. : ( costs are really mounting up. All profits are zeroed out and just looking to salvage the job to maintain reputation. : ( Im thinking on running the job twice for insurance that it might be successful. Thanks for posting the part about the pause then escape; that right there is worth all the money! the start from here is pretty awesome too. I may try to figure out a way to elevate the work off the honeycomb just a fraction so that I can see the fall and which ones don't.
I use those features allot. thanks for the comments!
The key to root cause analysis is breaking the components of the process down to things that can be controlled.
couldn’t agree more!
Thank you for the lesson, Now why was that last piece not usable? Looked fine to me!
the edges where charred real bad.
great video as usual. i have a question about the power being at 80 and 90 i never go above 50 because I have read and heard others saying not to run it at more than half power I am having some issues with our birch lately and trying to find the new settings as you are talking about in the video
Thunder already throttles their tube by 10% and they probvide tube that are rates over by 10%. The harder you drive it the shorter the tube life for sure but time is money to me so if I have to replace a tube earlier so be it. It’s a cost of doing business. Thanks for watching and the comment
Great Video. I just got my Thunder Nova 35 and still learning it. Do you every use masking over your wood projects to prevent the burning on the surface? What kind do you use?
With a thunder if you get allot of contamination on the surface your setting are not right. I’ve never had to mask! Lightly sand yes but very lightly. Be sure your air assist is Off when engraving. Lots of air flow just pushes the vaporized material right back on your work. Invest in a good palm sander like Festool ets 125.
Hi there! I have watched most of your videos and you're fabulous! I wish there was a way that you had an online class because I am Extremely frustrated with my xtool D1 pro. I can't get this machine to cut through ANY wood!!! I have trued multiple settings and different wood. NOTHING works. Any suggestions?
Thank,you for your comments, honestly that’s why I migrated from a diode laser to a co2 laser much quicker faster and easier to use!
Thank you for the video. Big help in my learning how to use the laser. I Have a 100 watt laser. When I cut squares I get a darker cut at corners. What is your settings to eliminate this issue? Thank you.
find my minamum and maximum video it will show you have the adjust as not to get dark corners
@@computercreationz thank you. Solved my problem.
I was racking my brain today, trying to cut maple veneer mdf at 5 mm/sec at 60% power, I was stumped why it would t cut through, now I know and I have an OMTech 80 W
thanks for watching
Great video, very informative. You said you get your 1/4" baltic Birch from a hardwood supplier, can you share the name or a link to the hardwood supplier you use? Thanks
I would love to have this also, however, I am sure he doesn't want 8,000 of his subscribers to buy from his supplier, because then he would have none left. I have a good friend locally and he wouldn't even tell me. Completely understandable. It is very hard to get Baltic Birch right now. Good luck!
my supplier of Baltic is a small cabinet shop about 60 miles away. they don’t resale online.
I haven't ever had the need to make multiple passes to cut through something, though I have when etching. Would you recommend not making multiple passes to cut through the "bionic" material if post production isn't an issue?
Making multiple passes when cutting destroys the edge quality
80W Do you use a mA meter to determine power. My 100W W2 Reci tube recommends 24mA for max tube life which gives me max at 65W
I do have a meter but it’s in the back. Thunder presets the power supply so you can’t overdrive the tube. overdriving a tube usually causes early failure!
For the last part (cutting the uncut squares) next time do this : check the "Cut selected Graphics" button, select the 2 uncut squares and press start. Simple and elegant. No messing with the preview, no chance to cut again something that is already cut.
Free advice ;)
Hmm, I use cut selected graphics all the time, but usually when I do it will change the origin based on the selection assuming I’m using user origin. because your only cutting a selected piece of where the origin was initially selected. what am I missing? I would love to understand how this works!
@@computercreationz I don't know how you use Lightburn, but from the way you describe it, it seems that you have "Start from : User Origin". I always use Start from : Absolute Coords. Not really sure if this makes a difference.
Anyway just take a piece of scrap material or cardboard and run some tests. It might come handy some time in the future.
Could a single scratch on the focus lens cause a significant power reduction? I was cutting 1/8 acrylic at 16/17mm @ 70% now it won't cut with even 10mm. In-between the te I last cut acrylic I had not cut a lot but I did cut maybe 20 pieces of birch. I was worried the mirror/lense was dirty so I brushed it with a lens brush. Any ideas?
If the scratch is in the middle of the lens then yes I will make a big difference.
I have a question: could you run it at 16mm per sec. 80 power with say 3 passes and cut thru without the charing?
multiple passes will increase your char no matter what the setting . The reason is all the soot has not place to go except back on the top of your material. 1 pass for cutting is always the goal to provide the best edge quality. thank you for the question!
What do you do when the settings for test square you cut worked just find but then the final cut didn't work? In my case, my test squares are cutting great, but my finger joint boxes are not cutting through (same material that the test cut did work). Thanks for your thoughts.
Allot of that has to do with the quality of wood you’re purchasing. Big box store ply is horrible. Try getting true Baltic birch ply that comes in 5’x5’ sheets. Big box stores does not carry this quality wood product.
@@computercreationz Thanks! I forgot to mention that I've really liked the quality of your videos, and I hope more people find your channel. I'll be coming back for more for sure!
Hello my friend. Thanks you for a great video. Could you please answer maybe 2 questions for me. 1 what watt and type laser are you using? If you mentioned it I somehow got distracted and missed it. I am brand new to lasers. I want to buy one and have wanted to for years. And I don’t want to start out with a cheapo low watt. 100 watt was what I really want with a decent size bed. Which laser would you recommend me to buy and if I put in the time to learn the laser and the work to build things, can I make a decent living with the laser being my only job? I feel like I have a good plan on how and where to sale my items and have several shop tools like miter slide saw, band saw, table saw and on and on already. I guess simply put, if I am determined, are my chances of succeeding good or bad? Probably hard to answer but hope you will try. And I will have to finance most of my laser. Thank you so much my friend. I have liked, commented and subscribed to your channel. Hope to hear back from you and look forward to any videos you have or will have. GOD bless…..
Hi Rapid Rob, if you’re serious about this adventure I highly recommend Thunder lasers they are well made and reasonably priced. Don’t buy cheap lasers. You will tinker more than you produce! If you’re not sure if this will work out I would recommend spending a smaller amount and start with the Thunder Bolt from Thunder laser it’s about$5500. Not cheap but if you’re serious this is a great option. You would be smart to business plan together way before your start this journey. If you don’t have the drive to generate a business plan it’s much harder to succeed! Thunderlaserusa.com
@@computercreationz Thank you so much my friend!! Your info/advice is invaluable and kind of you to reply. I know you probably can’t answer all the questions you receive but if you have time,,, “”If I bought the Thunder Bolt, what watt am I limited to and bed size? The $5,500 sounds great. I was expecting to have to spend between $10, to $15,000 to get something half way decent. I will do my homework, not asking you to do that. I have tried to price Thunders already but have to communicate via email. Aggravating but I guess it’s just what I must do. If I purchase through you will you get something for it or do you even do that? I’d gladly help you out if I went with a Thunder. Thanks again and Happy Easter!!!!
@@robjtkoif
You in the USA be sure you are going to thunderlaserusa.com then you can talk to someone!
@@computercreationz Awesome,, thank you so much for your time and knowledge!! I hope someday soon I can write you back my success story. Many, many thanks!!!
I’m running into an issue where my laser will shut off the laser In random parts completing a cut. Like if it’s a circle, there will be parts in that circle I tried to cut that the laser skipped causing it to not burn through the part of the circle. Any ideas ?
Without knowing what laser, setting, material that kind of stuff next to impossible to tell!
@@computercreationz well wish I could post a picture here
I just tried 3mm MDF. All the edges that were cut are covered with soot and I can't get it off, what a mess it makes. What do I do?
usually that means your going to slow speed up just a little till soot is minimized. mdf you will alway have some soot. if your using an underpowered laser for the thickness your trying to cut you may not be able to get rid of the soot!
I'm using a 22 watt Creality Falcon 2, It had problems going thru 5mm cork for my coasters.
My laser is 10 W I just want to cut through 5 mm wood I’m so lost what should my settings be
I’m sorry , I didn’t know that a 10 watt diode laser could cut 5mm mood. I don’t have a diode laser so I’m sorry I can’t help you. Did you ask on many of the diode forums?
@@computercreationz did you use light burn if so what always your settings if you don’t mind
@@ericawilliams18 yes I use Lightburn, my settings will do you no good. Your laser and mine are like apples and oranges. I would refer you to your laser manufacture to get you started.
How an you tell what foal length lens in in a machine?
in some cases you can’t unless it’s marked on the lens. a 2” lens means that it’s 2” from the focus lens to point of where the beam is the most narrow. .
Thanks for the reply. The company I work for purchased a "lot" of various equipment from an auction and there was a 40~60 watt red and black laser with about a 30X37 bed. It is not a Ruida controller and will not work with LightBurn, I have messed around with it enough to get it up and cutting somewhat. Our sales people took on a job that is laser cut 1/4" Delrin. They did not consult with production and our BIG laser, a 6000 watt Amada metal cutting laser, the Amada people says not to cut any non metallic material. I was able to cut the job but the edges were slightly convex. I am guessing it has a shorter length lens, when I get to work tomorrow I am going to figure out where in the lens tube the lens is mounted. I am guessing I need to get setup with a 4" FL lens?
So essentially you’re saying to Not slow the cut down on the harder materials, but instead make a second pass equal to the strength of the first pass..?
No, what I’m saying is there are materials out there that have not so laser friendly glue and you might not be able to cut it. doing 2 passes destroys the edge quality and produces lots of top contamination you have to remove and doubles your cut time.
@@computercreationz Ahh Gotcha! I’ve had lots of issues with the birch from HomeDepot with inconsistencies with normal woodwork and have had to spend the extra money through other vendors. Even their surface quality is bad now because it doesn’t accept stains well even with prepped surfaces.
Like for preface
I bet that is not glue but a wood knot in the middle layers, peel off the top layer to see
Ebony takes 8-10 passes at 70% Bubinga also does not cut well (I am talking 3-4mm thick on these)
Those 2 types of wood are very dense and are hard to cut even with power tools.
Yup, more glue…..less wood😂
It's
HDF
yep, allot of people don’t even know that stuff exists. lol
Borrowed implies it'll be returned :)
Yes an I returned the rest because it was unusable. Lol
Good morning i love your vids, BUT please don't fall into the same old trick of repeating and repeating and repeating, if people don't get it the first time they can always replay!
Hi Ron you may not like my style but according to the start people rarely replay the same video. Thanks for watching I appreciate your input
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the “Thanks” I really appreciate it!