As I mentioned before this program 964 should be on Netflix or national tv. Better produced and true information than many other shows. Keep up the good work. When I see new update from your channel, just made my day a lot better.
Thank you for your kind words! I’m doing this all out of my passion for this car and the joy of sharing it. Having said that, I would still enjoy more sub ;-)
I just watched the entire series of this 964 build over the weekend! I heard you mentioned when watching Retropower over here in the UK. I’m glad I found your channel, your work and videos are fantastic! I can’t wait for more 😁
Porsche chain tensioners have always been hydraulic as far as the ones I've worked on are concerned over the decades . The old type were internal behind the covers and were quite complex , took oil pressure from the main galleries , look like they are serviceable by replacing the internal O rings but .....no not really . Once the chains rattle you have to replace the whole assembly on both sides . Now they are external so you don't have to strip the whole front of the engine to replace . The common move on high revving motorcycle engines with this type of adjuster is to replace it with a full mechanically adjustable tensioner removing the unreliable oil feed . They are similar to the 3 D printed ones seen here but with a lock nut and easy to make . Its really easy to adjust a fully mechanical chain tensioner and will happily rev to 13000+ rpm in a race motorcycle .
The older Porsche engines have spring loaded “non-return” mechanical tensioners. They are not very fun and can lockup meaning you need to take the whole thing apart. The newer ones (like in the video) are not that expensive and have worked well for me.
Porsche motors got hydraulic tensioners for the 1984 model year when the 3.2L motor was introduced. Prior they had mechanical tensioners in various iterations that were never foolproof and accounted for a lot of bent valves and destroyed motors. As such, upgrading to hydraulic tensioners (with an external oil line) is standard practice when rebuilding older 911 motors with mechanical tensioners (if there are even any left).
It’s important to keep all parts loaded when you do the timing so that it’s accurate. There is a lot of clearance in this drive train… Some people also say you should not turn a Metzger backwards but no one so far has been able to give me a reason. Nothing in there that would take damage as far as I can see other than the timing being off.
I’ve used this engine (most of it before) and it was stronger than other 964s I could compare with. I’m thinking less than 400 but surely more than 350 ;-)
@@islandworks Ok thanks. Why did you use a 964 for the project over for example a g-body? A g-body would have had a hefty weight saving I think. Btw. I really love watching your videos. Very detailed and very entertaining
It’s a good example of starting with what you have and then having a project that got completely out of hand! Having said that I do have a G-model and I think the 964 is superior in so many ways.
nice work man this engine you called a boxster it's actually pronounced boxer as a boxster is the crapiest porsche car and engine ever made and you called the timing chain a timing shane its chain lol don't get me wrong, i am not making fun of you i respect you and i envy you dude your work is very good the way you put in those cam retainer plates shows me you have alot of experience i prefer to use 3 long 8 by1.00 bolts screw them in a few turns then push in the plates and they dont like to go in easily unless you rubber grease the fat oring well and its reciever groove in the housingthen once pushed in then i put in 3 original bolts
not so you won't cut it but not to stress the three bolts trying to snugg it up, also put grease on the bolt threads as not to strip them, my boss some 32 years ago taught me to set up number1 cylinder top dead center pulley of crank z1 at pointer set up both cams with either dots or 911 marks pointing down there are a few different markings with different years earlier 911 most of them had 911 and there's only a few other types they should face down tdc set up rocker on 1cylinder to exact valve lash, because if it's out a little this will change cam timing alot as the rocker may take longer to open valve or less to adjust this correctly it must take 3 hard wiggles to remove the feeler gauge if you adjust it so it slides out smoothly like on a conventional engine it will be to noisy as air cooled engines don't have any water around them to dampen out noises, use your dial gauge to dial in your cam timing on cyl 1 make a necessary adjustment then turn the engine 360 degrees till z1 lines up again this will show you your 1 cylinder overlap figures, then adjust the right side then when you achieved cam timing turn it another 360 till z1 appears again cyl number 4should show you its cam figures. i may have confused it a little but set up cam timing number1 cylinder on tdc turn crank 360 to check your figures then go to cyl number 4 set up dial gauge make adjustments then turn another 360 for cyl 4 cam figures
The valves will surely hit the pistons if you don’t start off with a rough setting of the camshaft before you set the first rockers. I’m not sure if that is what you meant.
Porsche motors are quite high performance motors from the factory. I seriously doubt you'd be able to get anywhere near as much power/L if the motors were non-interference. @Islandworks Sweden What Henry is referring to (and what made me very uncomfortable just watching your video) was that you opened the intake valve to 3.4mm lift and THEN, after removing the sprocket alignment pin, turned the motor through 2 revolutions. It has been a long time since I have built a 911 motor, bit IIRC the minimum valve/piston clearance on older Porsche motors was in the vicinity of 1.5mm. It is quite possible that you squeezed by without any contact at 3.4mm lift, but I seriously would not want to try your method (or is this SOP in 964/993 motors?). My experience is with older motors and there was a nut on the cam and the cam also had 2 flats that fit a 19mm wrench (IIRC). So we used to move the cam back and forwards a little while removing/reinserting the sprocket alignment pin. But we were sure that the piston was nowhere near the valve...
@@islandworks a positive stop and a degree wheel is one way to find true TDC, often you will find the timing mark on the pulley is inaccurate. You'll find lots of guides online that show how to do this. Once you have true TDC you can set the timing using the lift at TDC method like you did in the video. In reality if you are going to test for optimal cam timing on the dyno it doesn't really matter, as you will be swinging the cams to find the best timing anyway. A good idea is to find out how much piston to valve clearance you have either side of your zero timing position, so you can mark on your pulleys the maximum advanced and retarded positions. This will help when adjusting timing on the rolling road.
I will definitely make a check to see it’s accurate. For the 964 engine it will be quite a challenge adjusting the cam timing with the engine in the car, but everything is possible ;-)
I can’t believe this isn’t a much larger channel, such an amazing build with an education along the way.
Feel free to spread the word😎
As I mentioned before this program 964 should be on Netflix or national tv. Better produced and true information than many other shows. Keep up the good work. When I see new update from your channel, just made my day a lot better.
Thank you for your kind words! I’m doing this all out of my passion for this car and the joy of sharing it. Having said that, I would still enjoy more sub ;-)
I just watched the entire series of this 964 build over the weekend! I heard you mentioned when watching Retropower over here in the UK. I’m glad I found your channel, your work and videos are fantastic! I can’t wait for more 😁
Wow what a great series! It deserves much more views. Can't wait for another episode.
Love it, another great episode! Respect for all the extra work you do to make me understand what you are doing!!
Really looking forward to install the panel I got from you! Soon it will be time for that!!
@@islandworks cant wait to see! Just send me a drawing for the other one and Il Fix that to :}
This is what I was talking about in my previous post. The 993 doesn't have that key way or that extra sprocket.
So happy to see this video up. Love the channel
You're an inspiration sir. I hope to hone my skills to be able to accomplish something this rad in the future.
I started with small projects before it all got out of hand… go for it!
Another Quality, nerdy episode 👍👍
I love nerdy Porsche stuff!
Porsche chain tensioners have always been hydraulic as far as the ones I've worked on are concerned over the decades . The old type were internal behind the covers and were quite complex , took oil pressure from the main galleries , look like they are serviceable by replacing the internal O rings but .....no not really . Once the chains rattle you have to replace the whole assembly on both sides . Now they are external so you don't have to strip the whole front of the engine to replace .
The common move on high revving motorcycle engines with this type of adjuster is to replace it with a full mechanically adjustable tensioner removing the unreliable oil feed . They are similar to the 3 D printed ones seen here but with a lock nut and easy to make . Its really easy to adjust a fully mechanical chain tensioner and will happily rev to 13000+ rpm in a race motorcycle .
The older Porsche engines have spring loaded “non-return” mechanical tensioners. They are not very fun and can lockup meaning you need to take the whole thing apart. The newer ones (like in the video) are not that expensive and have worked well for me.
Porsche motors got hydraulic tensioners for the 1984 model year when the 3.2L motor was introduced. Prior they had mechanical tensioners in various iterations that were never foolproof and accounted for a lot of bent valves and destroyed motors. As such, upgrading to hydraulic tensioners (with an external oil line) is standard practice when rebuilding older 911 motors with mechanical tensioners (if there are even any left).
Road test gets closer and closer😊
It keeps getting closer!!
Great episode, great information
21:03 Can you explain why you can't go back 1/8th turn instead?
And more generally why you shouldn't turn an engine in reverse?
It’s important to keep all parts loaded when you do the timing so that it’s accurate. There is a lot of clearance in this drive train…
Some people also say you should not turn a Metzger backwards but no one so far has been able to give me a reason. Nothing in there that would take damage as far as I can see other than the timing being off.
Vo-tech......1st month. Good day!
Did I do it correct ;-)
Did you share your approach to ignition timing?
Love the build series.
What do you aim for horsepower and torque wise?
I’ve used this engine (most of it before) and it was stronger than other 964s I could compare with. I’m thinking less than 400 but surely more than 350 ;-)
@@islandworks Ok thanks.
Why did you use a 964 for the project over for example a g-body? A g-body would have had a hefty weight saving I think.
Btw. I really love watching your videos. Very detailed and very entertaining
It’s a good example of starting with what you have and then having a project that got completely out of hand!
Having said that I do have a G-model and I think the 964 is superior in so many ways.
@@islandworks yeah that makes sence. Weight isn't everything.
Thanks for this, sooooo much easier with 993 cams and Porsche locking tools. Quick question did you put 574 on the timing box cam seals?
Hi, I smeared a bit of 574 on both sides of the gasket behind the thrust plate of the camshaft. Just a dash and the use my fingers.
Dude, when are you producing another video?
Half way on next one now. Coming out soon!
nice work man this engine you called a boxster it's actually pronounced boxer as a boxster is the crapiest porsche car and engine ever made and you called the timing chain a timing shane its chain lol don't get me wrong, i am not making fun of you i respect you and i envy you dude your work is very good the way you put in those cam retainer plates shows me you have alot of experience i prefer to use 3 long 8 by1.00 bolts screw them in a few turns then push in the plates and they dont like to go in easily unless you rubber grease the fat oring well and its reciever groove in the housingthen once pushed in then i put in 3 original bolts
Thanks for your feedback! I’ll do what I can to keep this in mind going forward.
Greasing the oring is really important to seat it without cutting it.
not so you won't cut it but not to stress the three bolts trying to snugg it up, also put grease on the bolt threads as not to strip them,
my boss some 32 years ago taught me to set up number1 cylinder top dead center pulley of crank z1 at pointer set up both cams with either dots or 911 marks pointing down there are a few different markings with different years earlier 911 most of them had 911 and there's only a few other types they should face down tdc set up rocker on 1cylinder to exact valve lash, because if it's out a little this will change cam timing alot as the rocker may take longer to open valve or less to adjust this correctly it must take 3 hard wiggles to remove the feeler gauge if you adjust it so it slides out smoothly like on a conventional engine it will be to noisy as air cooled engines don't have any water around them to dampen out noises,
use your dial gauge to dial in your cam timing on cyl 1 make a necessary adjustment then turn the engine 360 degrees till z1 lines up again this will show you your 1 cylinder overlap figures, then adjust the right side then when you achieved cam timing turn it another 360 till z1 appears again cyl number 4should show you its cam figures.
i may have confused it a little but set up cam timing number1 cylinder on tdc turn crank 360 to check your figures then go to cyl number 4 set up dial gauge make adjustments then turn another 360 for cyl 4 cam figures
I have a very important question to ask!
Are you an Island Boy??!
The island is mine!
couldn't find the tensioner files on your website. Can you provide link or tell me where they are? T/hanks.
My memory is good but short. It’s now uploaded to the webpage. You’ll find it in the webshop as a free download.
Snyggt jobbat hopppas du hinner provköra till våren
Det hoppas jag med!
I can't remember, did you put more aggressive cams in? Also what is the compression ratio?
I already had very aggressive cams in there. The cams are from Schrick and is one of their more aggressive models.
👍🏻
That washer is not on the 993. I think the sprocket just goes onto that part of the cam. Is that correct?
I realize reading this that the 993 must be different in this aspect.
Why are you using the old motronic ecu .
I’m using Motec M150
I take it these are non-interference engines the way you were turning it over with incorrect cam timing?
The valves will surely hit the pistons if you don’t start off with a rough setting of the camshaft before you set the first rockers. I’m not sure if that is what you meant.
@@islandworks yes exactly. I missed that you had roughly set the timing first
Porsche motors are quite high performance motors from the factory. I seriously doubt you'd be able to get anywhere near as much power/L if the motors were non-interference.
@Islandworks Sweden What Henry is referring to (and what made me very uncomfortable just watching your video) was that you opened the intake valve to 3.4mm lift and THEN, after removing the sprocket alignment pin, turned the motor through 2 revolutions. It has been a long time since I have built a 911 motor, bit IIRC the minimum valve/piston clearance on older Porsche motors was in the vicinity of 1.5mm. It is quite possible that you squeezed by without any contact at 3.4mm lift, but I seriously would not want to try your method (or is this SOP in 964/993 motors?). My experience is with older motors and there was a nut on the cam and the cam also had 2 flats that fit a 19mm wrench (IIRC). So we used to move the cam back and forwards a little while removing/reinserting the sprocket alignment pin. But we were sure that the piston was nowhere near the valve...
Did you check the TDC mark on the crank pulley?
Yes, you align them together
@@islandworks I suspect he meant did you check that the mark is TRUE TDC...
@@HenryOCarmichaelSmith I’m happy to get a tip on how to measure this. Maybe as easy as sticking my boroscope in there?
@@islandworks a positive stop and a degree wheel is one way to find true TDC, often you will find the timing mark on the pulley is inaccurate. You'll find lots of guides online that show how to do this. Once you have true TDC you can set the timing using the lift at TDC method like you did in the video. In reality if you are going to test for optimal cam timing on the dyno it doesn't really matter, as you will be swinging the cams to find the best timing anyway. A good idea is to find out how much piston to valve clearance you have either side of your zero timing position, so you can mark on your pulleys the maximum advanced and retarded positions. This will help when adjusting timing on the rolling road.
I will definitely make a check to see it’s accurate. For the 964 engine it will be quite a challenge adjusting the cam timing with the engine in the car, but everything is possible ;-)
Why do all Porsche rebuilders suffer from upspeak?
I cannot answer that other than agree that I'm suffering!