I have the Chicago Electric Impact. Mail order from Harbor Freight when stationed in the Philippines. Used it mostly for taking primary front sprocket off when replacing primary belt on my Shovelhead FXWG. Worked good for that. Use now for lug nuts.
I have that same Bauer gun as a backup and as long as it's plugged directly into the wall or used with the 12 gauge extension cord, it has plenty of power. I noticed that you're holding the gun with one hand and it's jiggling all around the bolt, no wonder it rounded off. You need to put the camera on a tripod and use both hand to firmly press the gun against the bolt the whole time you're impacting. Sorry but this video is just a bit sloppy and not any fault of the gun.
Rotate and hold the socket tight into the load by hand so the wrench doesn't have to accelerate the weight of the socket on each hit. Then stay on it till the wrench begins to get warm, then let it cool and repeat as needed.
I've had air impacts fail to take those crank bolts out, and I do mean impacts that legitimately put out over 1750. dead start torque, the torque required to break a fastener loose reacts differently at the tool than working torque and a lot of dead torque energy gets lost very easily through wobble in the joins between extensions etc, or when one handing a 13lb impact which has about the same effect as limp wristing a semiautomatic pistol, except instead of causing a misfeed it causes socket to jump around fecking the fastener and bleeding torque out through moving tool mass, which on a 13lb tool is a lot of energy wasted. Most electric impacts in the category of the bauer will peak around 600 to 700 ftlbs , the predecessor, the Chicago version, klutch etc also made pretty much an identical one as well, were rated just under 300. Their beats per minute are slower as well, some of the early models had notoriously low beats per minute under working loads. That said, while neither of them are brutes, the Bauer has close to three times the working torque than the old Chicago style. If you set up a pinch jig similar to the way a chassis lower control arm or shock pocket will close up if a shock bolt is tightened with a shock sleeve bushing that is too narrow you'll find the difference in the two tools pretty quickly. The older Chicago style were basically created to be ran off inverters for an airless solution to making removal and installation of lug nuts easier and quicker for AAA folk. The Bauer is considerably more powerful, which is another test you could do next time you have an old wheel hub waiting to be sent to recycling. You'd be pretty hard pressed to strip a 1/2 x 20 stud with the Chicago. The Bauer will do it pretty easily
I start with the cheater and a breaker bar always use 6 point sockets then apply ludicrious foce refinery impacts will flip he car around and around or spap the motor mounts off
If you are not using a proper electrical extension wire to plug in the tools then you're not gonna get full power out of them, you must have a power cord of at least 13 amps at 120 volts to properly power those
I bought one of those Bauer 1/2” impact torque wrench so as to be able to change out my summer tires with my winter tires. Tired of using the 4 way. And the thing wouldn’t take off the first lug nut off of my 2017 Mustang GT Junk. I have never bought anything from harbor freight that ever did what it said or didn’t break the first time you used it.
I dont have the same circumstance as you, but one thing that can affect electric tool performance can be the extension cord. The shorter and thicker the better current can flow. I had a 15 amp compressor that wouldnt even turn on when it was plugged into a very thick 100’ extension cable. I had to wheel it to the house outlet directly, fill the tank, then wheel it to the fence we were building.
If you rounded the nut the weak link here is the nut not the tool. Unless you used the wrong sized socket in which case you are at fault and not the tool. Why return the tool to the store ?
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thats what i was thinking. soft metal or user error.
By any chance were you using a 12 point socket? Only use 6 point. The Bauer is 1050 ft lbs for breaking...300 lbs max tightening. Works fine for lug nuts for me.
Dang thats disappointing. Been looking at the HF big Bauer or the Kobalt, still not sure which I want to go w/. Hindsight is 20/20, you found anything better now? Have u found an impact wrench that actually breaks this bolt loose consistently? - thanks for sharing, take care.
I was on the fence about the Bauer electric 1/2" impact when I sheared off my Craftsman-USA ratchet on the wife's Honda Odyssey. After seeing people still having trouble with impacts AND the lisle socket, I decided to go the 3/4" breaker and extensions exactly as you set it up. They made short work of the problem. The total lack of flex in those massive tools made it 100 times easier torqueing the bolt back on as well (48lb/ft + 60* method). Just replaced the harmonic balance on my Acura TL last weekend. Out came the 3/4" breaker and socket. Job was done with ease. I won't be blowing money on impacts (for now).
Yep can't go wrong wit ha 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket and extensions. I even found a 10 foot long cheater bar on the side of the road that I can add to the breaker bar. Haven't yet found a crankshaft bolt I can't pop off! Boy it sure is crazy how "stuck" they can be though.
Funny I tried the same on my odyssey yesterday with the bauer. Wondered if it may hurt the seal there too. Didn't break it loose. Thought there was something wrong with it.
at least you have to know how to use the impact pistols this guy thinks it's only to put the dice and press the button and wuala loosen up, no friend has his knack
That is a great question. I did not replace it. I filed the edges where it was rounded off. I should replace it. You could check a junkyard for it or I would pick one up from the junkyard.
Very well done job especially using the Lisle socket. Weight does make a difference and if they don't break that, then too bad. Looks like I'll stick to my air. *HOWEVER, ALWAYS* hold the socket up straight and all the way in especially when working with power tools. Any slant will cause uneven wear on the bolt as shown because you the torque wasn't evenly distributed to the teeth.
Thanks for this video! I was thinking of getting that Bauer impact wrench along with the Lisle socket just for the timing belt replacement on my Accord V6. Now I’m not sure that’s a good solution. Happy to find out now before I bought everything.
Try it on a real honda crank pulley bolt. B18 engines and h22 and f22 engines those are damn hard. The honda engines after 98 seemed easier and also engines with crank on pass side also seem so easy and you dont even need an impact if crank pulley is on pass side. Just put a breaker bar on it against the ground and tap starter few times. Works everytime ive done it
...try a heavy gauge extension cord (12 ga. or 10 ga),don't bother with 16 ga. or less; it won't provide the amperage that the tool needs for optimum performance.
I think the same. There’s absolutely no reason that the bauer shouldnt take that off. Plus why was he wigglin the gun like that? And the bolt rounded because he didnt have the socket all the way in and spun it out.
I thank you for this video. 1 more selling point on the M18 fuel selling for $249 from home Depot right now (the big dog 1/2 making 1400 foot pounds). I own one of these Bauer's and paid $84 at a parking lot sale 1 month ago, I now see coupons for $69!?!? Maybe a good tool for some car lugs when your waiting to buy a new impact wrench but I don't see the justification of $84 price tag after seeing these UA-cam videos. $69 coupon makes sense to me, thanks for showing us whats really going on!!
just bought it for 70, wouldn't have paid more. keeps me out of the m18 line and I'll only use it in Reverse on the big monsters... other cordless guns for regular bolts
YOU lost a considerable amount of torque by not holding the impacts tight at the handle and the top. Even air impacts need that sometimes for really tight fasteners.
If you had to use a 3ft 3/4in breaker bar, it was way out of the range of both drivers and doesn't prove anything. Find something one can do reliably that the other can't. Meanwhile, I'm gonna return this review ;)
I've heard the best/biggest bragging on Milwaukee impacts, even the cordless. My church buddy says his dad got 1 & it snatches off dually pickup lug nuts, & he better Not be lying at church...
My 2012 acura tl has a little over 60k dealer says its time for timing belt change due to the extreme heat here in Phoenix AZ. Do you agree with that or 100k ?
Honda recommends between 80K and 105K. I think they are trying to sell it to you a little early. I would change it at 80K. Do it yourself and save some money!
My only concern is that the belt in question is 8, going on 9 years old. The rubber wears out. I've seen 20 year old cars with 20k-30k miles needing timing belts due to the belt breaking down over time.
@@bundysgarage we all saw what you did.. the socket was not always on completely.. YOU rounded the bolt. Should have set the camera down and used 2 hands
Exactly! I think took companies should make more tools in bright colors so you don’t lose them. I paint lots of stuff yellow so I don’t leave it under a hood. I hate losing tools!
ALLLLL Honda crankshaft pulley bolt have a vary good LOCKTIGHT so i can say i NEVER had a problem removing the crank bolt you have to have the dam bolt to melt the locktight if you read up a little first you would know this one day you will break a bolt doing it this way
I have the Chicago Electric impact and after it removed my wheel lugs & axel nuts I'm satisfied that's all I need.
I have the Chicago Electric Impact. Mail order from Harbor Freight when stationed in the Philippines. Used it mostly for taking primary front sprocket off when replacing primary belt on my Shovelhead FXWG. Worked good for that. Use now for lug nuts.
If you wiggle the impact gun around on the bolt head then it will round the bolt head. That error was 100% you and not the gun or the socket.
1" Ingersoll Rand impact for that job
Yeah not everyone has access to a 1” IR gun
HOLD that trigger man, quit bliping the trigger. You gotta hold the trigger to build some torque
Looks like most agree. Great vid, but not very exacting.
I have that same Bauer gun as a backup and as long as it's plugged directly into the wall or used with the 12 gauge extension cord, it has plenty of power. I noticed that you're holding the gun with one hand and it's jiggling all around the bolt, no wonder it rounded off. You need to put the camera on a tripod and use both hand to firmly press the gun against the bolt the whole time you're impacting.
Sorry but this video is just a bit sloppy and not any fault of the gun.
I never have any problem with these bolt using bauer from HF
It appears to me that if the bolt is being rounded that the problem is the socket, Not the gun.
Wasn’t the socket
@@bundysgarage ya wasnt the gun, wasnt the socket, it was the operator letting it bounce around, on and off the nut like that...
@@axa.axa. hahahaaa
Bauer is 300 ft. lb.
Specification said 300 ft.lbs Max for Bauer, I don't know what is 1050 ft. lbs stands for.??
nothing like air
Rotate and hold the socket tight into the load by hand so the wrench doesn't have to accelerate the weight of the socket on each hit. Then stay on it till the wrench begins to get warm, then let it cool and repeat as needed.
I've had air impacts fail to take those crank bolts out, and I do mean impacts that legitimately put out over 1750. dead start torque, the torque required to break a fastener loose reacts differently at the tool than working torque and a lot of dead torque energy gets lost very easily through wobble in the joins between extensions etc, or when one handing a 13lb impact which has about the same effect as limp wristing a semiautomatic pistol, except instead of causing a misfeed it causes socket to jump around fecking the fastener and bleeding torque out through moving tool mass, which on a 13lb tool is a lot of energy wasted. Most electric impacts in the category of the bauer will peak around 600 to 700 ftlbs , the predecessor, the Chicago version, klutch etc also made pretty much an identical one as well, were rated just under 300. Their beats per minute are slower as well, some of the early models had notoriously low beats per minute under working loads. That said, while neither of them are brutes, the Bauer has close to three times the working torque than the old Chicago style. If you set up a pinch jig similar to the way a chassis lower control arm or shock pocket will close up if a shock bolt is tightened with a shock sleeve bushing that is too narrow you'll find the difference in the two tools pretty quickly. The older Chicago style were basically created to be ran off inverters for an airless solution to making removal and installation of lug nuts easier and quicker for AAA folk. The Bauer is considerably more powerful, which is another test you could do next time you have an old wheel hub waiting to be sent to recycling. You'd be pretty hard pressed to strip a 1/2 x 20 stud with the Chicago. The Bauer will do it pretty easily
I start with the cheater and a breaker bar always use 6 point sockets then apply ludicrious foce refinery impacts will flip he car around and around or spap the motor mounts off
Dude hold the tool on the fastener
That bolt was so stuck on there, it wouldn’t have made a difference.
Exactly, that's why it stripped out.
@@bundysgarage You lose applied torque when you let it jump around like that. And, of course, you also round off your fastener.
If you are not using a proper electrical extension wire to plug in the tools then you're not gonna get full power out of them, you must have a power cord of at least 13 amps at 120 volts to properly power those
I bought one of those Bauer 1/2” impact torque wrench so as to be able to change out my summer tires with my winter tires. Tired of using the 4 way. And the thing wouldn’t take off the first lug nut off of my 2017 Mustang GT Junk. I have never bought anything from harbor freight that ever did what it said or didn’t break the first time you used it.
You win some and you lose some! Take it back, they have a 90 day return policy and maybe even longer with Christmas right around the corner.
I dont have the same circumstance as you, but one thing that can affect electric tool performance can be the extension cord. The shorter and thicker the better current can flow. I had a 15 amp compressor that wouldnt even turn on when it was plugged into a very thick 100’ extension cable. I had to wheel it to the house outlet directly, fill the tank, then wheel it to the fence we were building.
If you rounded the nut the weak link here is the nut not the tool. Unless you used the wrong sized socket in which case you are at fault and not the tool. Why return the tool to the store ?
thats what i was thinking. soft metal or user error.
By any chance were you using a 12 point socket? Only use 6 point. The Bauer is 1050 ft lbs for breaking...300 lbs max tightening. Works fine for lug nuts for me.
Dang thats disappointing. Been looking at the HF big Bauer or the Kobalt, still not sure which I want to go w/. Hindsight is 20/20, you found anything better now? Have u found an impact wrench that actually breaks this bolt loose consistently? - thanks for sharing, take care.
I was on the fence about the Bauer electric 1/2" impact when I sheared off my Craftsman-USA ratchet on the wife's Honda Odyssey. After seeing people still having trouble with impacts AND the lisle socket, I decided to go the 3/4" breaker and extensions exactly as you set it up. They made short work of the problem. The total lack of flex in those massive tools made it 100 times easier torqueing the bolt back on as well (48lb/ft + 60* method). Just replaced the harmonic balance on my Acura TL last weekend. Out came the 3/4" breaker and socket. Job was done with ease. I won't be blowing money on impacts (for now).
Yep can't go wrong wit ha 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket and extensions. I even found a 10 foot long cheater bar on the side of the road that I can add to the breaker bar. Haven't yet found a crankshaft bolt I can't pop off! Boy it sure is crazy how "stuck" they can be though.
Funny I tried the same on my odyssey yesterday with the bauer. Wondered if it may hurt the seal there too. Didn't break it loose. Thought there was something wrong with it.
at least you have to know how to use the impact pistols this guy thinks it's only to put the dice and press the button and wuala loosen up, no friend has his knack
The one arm bandit camera videos don't work well when you have one hand on an impact.
Did you replace the bolt since got rounded off, and if you did where did you get it?
That is a great question. I did not replace it. I filed the edges where it was rounded off. I should replace it. You could check a junkyard for it or I would pick one up from the junkyard.
@@bundysgarage The bolt is only a couple dollars -- got one off amazon for $3. That head gets rounded and.....well you know how much fun that will be.
Loads of fun if the head gets rounded
Very well done job especially using the Lisle socket. Weight does make a difference and if they don't break that, then too bad. Looks like I'll stick to my air. *HOWEVER, ALWAYS* hold the socket up straight and all the way in especially when working with power tools. Any slant will cause uneven wear on the bolt as shown because you the torque wasn't evenly distributed to the teeth.
break away torque is different than torque from what i understand
Funny this is the exact reason I was looking to buy an impact.
Thanks for this video! I was thinking of getting that Bauer impact wrench along with the Lisle socket just for the timing belt replacement on my Accord V6. Now I’m not sure that’s a good solution. Happy to find out now before I bought everything.
Try it on a real honda crank pulley bolt. B18 engines and h22 and f22 engines those are damn hard. The honda engines after 98 seemed easier and also engines with crank on pass side also seem so easy and you dont even need an impact if crank pulley is on pass side. Just put a breaker bar on it against the ground and tap starter few times. Works everytime ive done it
How much was the baur and how hvy?
$110 bucks without a coupon and not sure how much it weighs.
I banana'd a 3/4 bar with a 4' cheater pipe on it (VW 46mm axle nuts)... the 1/2 Bauer impact knocked it loose in seconds... just saying
...try a heavy gauge extension cord (12 ga. or 10 ga),don't bother with 16 ga. or less; it won't provide the amperage that the tool needs for optimum performance.
I think the same. There’s absolutely no reason that the bauer shouldnt take that off. Plus why was he wigglin the gun like that? And the bolt rounded because he didnt have the socket all the way in and spun it out.
You dont seem to have a hard hold on that gun. Rounded that shit right out lmao
I thank you for this video. 1 more selling point on the M18 fuel selling for $249 from home Depot right now (the big dog 1/2 making 1400 foot pounds). I own one of these Bauer's and paid $84 at a parking lot sale 1 month ago, I now see coupons for $69!?!? Maybe a good tool for some car lugs when your waiting to buy a new impact wrench but I don't see the justification of $84 price tag after seeing these UA-cam videos. $69 coupon makes sense to me, thanks for showing us whats really going on!!
just bought it for 70, wouldn't have paid more. keeps me out of the m18 line and I'll only use it in Reverse on the big monsters... other cordless guns for regular bolts
YOU lost a considerable amount of torque by not holding the impacts tight at the handle and the top. Even air impacts need that sometimes for really tight fasteners.
Use 2 hands to stop the strip. Its not bauers fault things got rounded.
That Bauer is nowhere near 1000 foot pounds of torque is more like 390 foot pounds!
I have never had any trouble with that bolt.that is because I have never done it before.HA HA HA
lol. . . to funny,
Damn my ears are ringing from the blast 😂
If you had to use a 3ft 3/4in breaker bar, it was way out of the range of both drivers and doesn't prove anything. Find something one can do reliably that the other can't. Meanwhile, I'm gonna return this review ;)
I've heard the best/biggest bragging on Milwaukee impacts, even the cordless. My church buddy says his dad got 1 & it snatches off dually pickup lug nuts, & he better Not be lying at church...
Takes some force to break a 1/2" breaker bar.
My 2012 acura tl has a little over 60k dealer says its time for timing belt change due to the extreme heat here in Phoenix AZ. Do you agree with that or 100k ?
Honda recommends between 80K and 105K. I think they are trying to sell it to you a little early. I would change it at 80K. Do it yourself and save some money!
Bull crap. If your car recommends 100 thou. They are just trying to get your money.
I don't think phoenix gets hotter than normal temps under the hood
My only concern is that the belt in question is 8, going on 9 years old. The rubber wears out. I've seen 20 year old cars with 20k-30k miles needing timing belts due to the belt breaking down over time.
@@bundysgarage I only buy cars w/a timing chain. The whole idea of a belt was stupid to begin with....
try using the right size socket first so you dont round it off--user error, i hope your not piloting the 737max on your night job haha
It was the right size socket. Everyone’s a comedian!
You rounded off that bolt! Not sticking up for a plug in impact. Lol you sir shouldn’t work on cars
The socket rounded off the bolt
@@bundysgarage we all saw what you did.. the socket was not always on completely.. YOU rounded the bolt. Should have set the camera down and used 2 hands
@@bundysgarage Who was operating the socket,?
Hey! That's a good idea,🤔 painting those black impact extension bars, so they don't get misplaced. I'm on my second set.
Exactly! I think took companies should make more tools in bright colors so you don’t lose them. I paint lots of stuff yellow so I don’t leave it under a hood. I hate losing tools!
Let's see TQ a lug nut to 1050TQ and let's see the bower fail.
So neither one of these worked for this job!
Correct. These 2 guns could not break loose a Honda crankshaft pulley bolt.
ALLLLL Honda crankshaft pulley bolt have a vary good LOCKTIGHT so i can say i NEVER had a problem removing the crank bolt you have to have the dam bolt to melt the locktight if you read up a little first you would know this one day you will break a bolt doing it this way