My Color Editing Went from Basic to PRO After I Learned This!
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
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In this week’s episode, we discuss what took my color editing from basic to pro and how you can do the same with this simple technique. There's over 100 tools and sliders available within Lightroom and most of these are dedicated to enhancing color. So, it can quickly become confusing & overwhelming when trying to figure out which color editing tools are best for a certain photograph. In this video, I'll share with you a technique that'll take all the guess work out of color editing while simplifying the entire editing process. I hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.
#landscapephotography
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There are a lot of good landscape photographers on UA-cam with great photos and content . But I feel no one teaches as well as you do. I just came back from Ladakh and despite the fact I rarely do landscape photography, I spent a lot of time going through your videos in composition before the trip , and I got some great feedback from people. So thank you very much.
Thanks so much - really appreciate it!
An absolutely bonkers process from start to finish
Great to see these tips that you talked about in previous videos, come together harmonically, in this one, Mark👍
One thing I noticed in my editing, is that when adjusting colors of landscapes, it’s easy to chase away the natural appearance of the environment, when shifting hues and color calibrations. Most notable, for example, is setting a slightly warmer white balance for a summer or fall photo, and adjusting greens to a cool tone green. Ofc it’s subjective, however it generally appears very evident that “somethins off,” “not right” about the photo because of the clashing color temperatures.
Intentionally or not, you’d missed the chance to mention (in this video) how there’s the dropper tool in each of the color settings which one could utilize to set a more balanced color adjustment. As the dropper affects the tone, and its undertone.. so, intern color adjustments can be a lot more uniform, cohesive.
Thank you for your time to read
Thank you!!! You do the best at teaching this!! Really hope you’re being rewarded well!!!!
Keep shining!! ❤
How to raise saturation with 30 extra steps
Thank you again for another very helpful video. I like the idea of working from the bottom up as a way to keep organized. Too many sliders and options tends to overwhelm me a bit. I tend to get overwhelmed on where to start, and by starting at the same level and adjusting each one individually is a more organized procedural approach. Thank you.
Helpful and great video! Also, it's a good idea to make sure that your computer screen is not being hit with any direct light, especially colored or yellow light. I like to dim the overall ambience in my studio room.
Wow! Loved your lessons for a long time, and this is another banger. I just finished a small business shoot, and this process is helping me with the headshots to get skin tones looking better. Thank you!
This is great. I'm going to add this to my editing arsenal.
BTW, I noticed the green shrubbery on camera right looks like it's growing out of a Sony Walkman tape player. 😁
Thank you very much. All your work is exceptional and special. I am grateful to you for the valuable information and effort to teach in this particular way.
Enjoyed the video as usual Mark.
I certainly learned a lot from this.
Look forward to the next one.
Mark, I wanted to reach out and ask if you and your family are Okay after Hurricane Helene struck?
This is a really good approach to color grading. Although I don't use Lightroom, my editor does have the same tools, in the same order, so I plan to use this as I curate my collection. Always learn something from your videos. Many thanks!
1:00 Peter Lik - "oh I don't know… looks good to me"!
Great video and never thought about working from the bottom up on editing will have to give that a try.
Your clock on the wall behind you needs a new battery.
Thanks for the videos, I always learn something.
That iPod is a beast ! 🤩
For making out individual colours - isnt it quicker to press ALT and see where the "reds" are or the "yellows" etc?
Best description of this method is "Color Titration"
Great video as always!
Thanks a lot Mark...very inspiring!
Very detailed information.. Thanks
Thank you for the video !
Hi Mark. A great video once again. I just wondered whether you would ever need to reset the tint slider in the WB panel?
Great video 👍👍
Holy crap I was the 1000th like 🤘📸
Hi Mark! Thank you for this weeks video, cool approach, enjoyed it! Isn't it a good idea to set the black and white levels while in the colourmixer all is set at -100?
Thanks!
I would like to understand the relationship between white balance and the color calibration. I get that white balance establishes the tone (temp) of the overall photo. However, when the color calibration is adjusted, doesn't that affect the white balance, especially if one of the primary colors dominates over the others? I'll get the color course, as I am new to post processing and am excited to learn a new skill in retirement.
I've always used it for like color correction, or color matching, where as white balance is intended to match to the color temperature of the light whether it's the sun or tungsten lighting, florescent, etc. Calibration is adjusting the RGB channels directly. Unlike the color sliders it affects colors at the channel level so even where a direct color isn't visible it's affecting the amount of color in each combination of RGB. It can be used to create color shifts or fix them. When using different lenses, some of them will have a slight color variation and you can match it to another lens, cheaper filters, shooting through glass can all create color changes that you might want to negate or it can be part of intentional color changes to mimic film or to create a specific style.
@@Chromatomic That is very helpful. I hadn’t thought of white balance in terms of the surrounding light, so the rest of your reply is very clear. Thank you for educating this novice.
Neat!
Is that a walkman on the table?
Just realizing it was swapped with a gameboy and a Rubik's cube in some of the previous videos.
Also look at the left side magazine rack. A printed copy of Shutterbug magazine that disappeard awhile ago.
Why do you not first select the camera profiles 4 little squares where it will show the camera profiles and you can rollover each to get a good starting point that you would of gotten if you did a jpeg and selected that profile. Example I do a lot of Astro Milky Ways from a beach area for the dark sky over the ocean. The milky way area over the galactic center you find Pegasus that always has the Yin and Yang colors of magenta to the left where the wings and a area lower another part and a blue color unlike the night sky to the right where the horse body is, I use Sony A7SM1,2,3 and sometimes A7RM5. From the beginning with the A7SM1 using AWB and selecting portrait to start first the beach sand color was tan and the Pegasus Yin and Yang colors were perfect and just the right brightness but perfect and the added bonus was the colors of air glow where atoms in the high altitudes hitting each other of oxygen, carbon dioxide being red and green others being blue. The point is all you have to do at the start for a colorful night sky vs grey or black that many think is real due the human eye can not see colors at night but a camera can with a long exposure of just 1 sec. is just slide the Vibrance and Saturation just a little and those colors come out. The A7RM5 is a little harder to select a profile due to naming of each but portrait is named . I always roll over camera profiles even always set camera to standard when capturing and always doing RAW Lrc and other programs do a best guess on camera profiles that work. You would have to capture an image in all profiles in jpeg mode to pick or adjust the raw to one that works for you. May I add that color of trees with leaves of green due to spring time are also rather bright and colorful. All with little effort.
Mark, if you dont mind me asking where did you buy your t-shirt from please thank you.
What type of file were you editing? Just the WB wasn't in kelvins...a tif or jpeg?
This could all be so much simpler by using an rgb parade.
❤
the link doesn’t work
Over saturated in Green it is.
Way too complicated and time consuming imu.
Thanks for the intro to color adjustments. Since I use the Desk LR, and the LRC menu is WAY different, it is at times hard to follow. Like the Y shortcut - that is not on the Desk Top LR. I would enjoy buying your class, but with the differences noted in this video and prior videos, the expense exceeds the benefits- sorry.
Just use LrC!!!
I would have much more faith in your content if you focused on the general use of photo editing software, not just on Lightroom. Freedom of choice should be the rule!
you have the choice to use whatever you want, but lightroom is the industry standard whether you like it or not
Lightroom is really, really bad when it comes to landscapes that have many shades of green and /or red/yellow foliage. You have to work the color corrections seriously to get them looking correct. In other software like DxO or C1, you open the raw and they are there, you tweak just a bit or not ar all and that’s it
he's a Lightroom expert. if you content for other software do your homework and find other creators. there are plenty
Would you recommend DXO for landscape , haven’t used it but hear some very good things about it .?
@@philadler9171 Why does it matter ? I don't care who he is, this video appear in my feed. Do you think he is that delicate that any criticism of Lightroom is forbidden here ?
@@davidwalker2402 I love DxO, the raw conversions are the best in my opinion, and also the noise reduction. But honestly each software does some things better than the other. Lr is very powerful, unmatched even at some tasks, DxO at others, C1 at others.
@@davidwalker2402 I would, to me it is definitely leads to better results, but you have to get to know it to extract the goods from it (the fine details, the shadows/highlights etc), Lightroom is more friendly at this