So I got these bushings and installed them, a couple of warnings here -- if your vehicle is old like mine ~290k km there is a good chance the idler arm shaft is slightly bent, you won't know until you install these bushings to find out that it will bind (however little in certain parts of the rotation). Second problem is that there appears to be an issue with the overall fit, the bushings are slightly too thick and causes the arm to bind as well. Several other people have reported the same issue and have had to sand them down. These are difficult if not impossible to remove after installation without damaging them due to how thin the sidewalls are, so I would recommend caution if you are thinking of buying these. In the end I threw on an aftermarket arm and called it a day. ($100+ bushings went to waste, sigh). I wish I would've known this information before purchasing as I would've just opted to replace it with the oem plastic bushings instead (they lasted 290k km so why not).
I had similar issue with my installation as well. What I found wasnt that the bushing is machined too large but that the channels for the grease are machined so thin that the bushing is actually collapsing in on itself as it gets pressed into the arm. I never found a solution as I just threw them in the trash and kept the plastic for now.
Interesting, your idler arm connection appears much better made than the one on my 2004. On my 2004 it was a weak link requiring a brace. Purchased a Calmini idle arm brace and install it; back in 2005 it cost $30.00-ish
@@Jos11.5 after some driving I put the washer back on. I was a bit skeptical of the nut only having a few threads engaged, but it's better like that. I also drilled and tapped a grease fitting into the side to keep it lubed up.
@@AdrianMorse42069 a few months back I commented regarding the washer that originally goes on the bottom of the stock Nissan idler arm and I posted that u need to keep it after the bandit bushings are installed. I was actually wrong. I reached out to bandit 4x4 and he said that as long as u have the AC idler arm brace on, u no longer need the washer at the bottom of the idler arm. I was having alignment issues with the bandit bushings + the washer + the AC idler arm brace. So basically if u have bandit bushings keep it like u have it here on the video. If u have stock idler arm bushings or AC bushings with AC idler arm brace keep the washer on. Hope this helps. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing bro. I have the 3" suspension lift and after some offroading, my steering is getting the shakes and that's how I landed here. I see you have the idler arm brace, the HD tie rod adjusters and also added the bushing in this video. Is this enough or you also see a need for a modded centre link? Plus the Tie Rod ends(are they stock or you also changed them?)
I'm planning on getting an HD Centrelink. As for the rod ends I used mevotech supreme parts. I still have a bit of wander so I think next I will be rebuilding the steering box.
@@AdrianMorse42069 thanks man. The tie rod ends from mevotech, do you have a part # or link to the product? I also don't see the center link available in the market presently :-(
So I got these bushings and installed them, a couple of warnings here -- if your vehicle is old like mine ~290k km there is a good chance the idler arm shaft is slightly bent, you won't know until you install these bushings to find out that it will bind (however little in certain parts of the rotation). Second problem is that there appears to be an issue with the overall fit, the bushings are slightly too thick and causes the arm to bind as well. Several other people have reported the same issue and have had to sand them down.
These are difficult if not impossible to remove after installation without damaging them due to how thin the sidewalls are, so I would recommend caution if you are thinking of buying these. In the end I threw on an aftermarket arm and called it a day. ($100+ bushings went to waste, sigh).
I wish I would've known this information before purchasing as I would've just opted to replace it with the oem plastic bushings instead (they lasted 290k km so why not).
I had similar issue with my installation as well. What I found wasnt that the bushing is machined too large but that the channels for the grease are machined so thin that the bushing is actually collapsing in on itself as it gets pressed into the arm. I never found a solution as I just threw them in the trash and kept the plastic for now.
Interesting, your idler arm connection appears much better made than the one on my 2004. On my 2004 it was a weak link requiring a brace. Purchased a Calmini idle arm brace and install it; back in 2005 it cost $30.00-ish
Awsome man I haven't heard of this company before! Just ordered some for my Frontier 👍
While you were having issue lining up all the bolts, I would've install both nuts on treading available and use those bolts to pull ever thing closer.
Very good job explaining it I I will be doing mine you real soon
Thanks for the video! I think the AC idler arm brace is designed to go on top the bracket... I might be wrong
You might be right on that one
@@Jos11.5 after some driving I put the washer back on. I was a bit skeptical of the nut only having a few threads engaged, but it's better like that. I also drilled and tapped a grease fitting into the side to keep it lubed up.
@@Jos11.5 sorry didn't understand what you mean here? Keep the plastic washer vs the brass washer?
@@Jos11.5 thanks bro
@@AdrianMorse42069 a few months back I commented regarding the washer that originally goes on the bottom of the stock Nissan idler arm and I posted that u need to keep it after the bandit bushings are installed. I was actually wrong. I reached out to bandit 4x4 and he said that as long as u have the AC idler arm brace on, u no longer need the washer at the bottom of the idler arm. I was having alignment issues with the bandit bushings + the washer + the AC idler arm brace. So basically if u have bandit bushings keep it like u have it here on the video. If u have stock idler arm bushings or AC bushings with AC idler arm brace keep the washer on. Hope this helps. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video! Good information that I will try later on with my two 2002 4x4 xterras. Keep it up! Greetings from Houston, Tx.
Thank you!
Did the instructions not say anything about using the rubber seals on the new bushings?
Been a while since I've looked at it but I believe they aren't required
Good job broo
You the man! 💪😎
what is the size of those bushing?
Looks like these aren't available anymore?
bandit4x4.com/oem-stock-idler-arm-bushings/
@@AdrianMorse42069 Was it worth the cost to do it vs putting in a new oem bushing? It's like over a $100+ CAD by the time it gets across the border :(
Thanks for sharing bro. I have the 3" suspension lift and after some offroading, my steering is getting the shakes and that's how I landed here. I see you have the idler arm brace, the HD tie rod adjusters and also added the bushing in this video. Is this enough or you also see a need for a modded centre link? Plus the Tie Rod ends(are they stock or you also changed them?)
I'm planning on getting an HD Centrelink. As for the rod ends I used mevotech supreme parts. I still have a bit of wander so I think next I will be rebuilding the steering box.
@@AdrianMorse42069 thanks man. The tie rod ends from mevotech, do you have a part # or link to the product? I also don't see the center link available in the market presently :-(
@@Videona MES3661 and MES3660 for the rod ends
@@AdrianMorse42069 thanks!!
@@AdrianMorse42069 are these a more closer OEM version v/s Moog? Cos the center link grassroots people mention that Moog is not gonna fit their link.
What Tie rod adjuster is that?
They are from 4x4 parts