we are currently working on 2 and are putting 3 speedy sleeves in the proper location in an attempt to resolve. I am making video and will upload it in the next day or 2. I have the part number for the sleeves as well. Stay tuned and feel free to contact me.
I just had my 2014 Spark done after 80 hours of salt water use. BRP Australia supplied the parts at no cost and the labour cost to replace the crank was $1300.00 including the wear ring. In my opinion this should become a recall as it’s not fit for use. The big clue is they changed the design mid-production. Production changes are not unusual but this is a change to allow maintenance where maintenance is needed! Watch this space...
I have a 2016 spark with this problem, only 100 hours of salt water use from new and always well washed out etc. I've just today replaced the 3 x seals (as well as the PTO gasket and the rubber shaft joint + clamps). I did my best with wet dry sandpaper (from 180 up to 1200 grit) to remove the corrosion as much as possible and get it smooth without removing too much material, but from experience I know that it won't work even with best efforts...I give it another 10 hours or so before the new seals are shredded! Changing the crankshaft is uneconomical (given where I reside - Caribbean island) so honestly the alternative is just to scrap the unit! Only 3 years old and 100 hours!! Great for the environment...great job BRP! This is a serious engineering flaw, and I have lots to say on this about BRP for another time.... BUT, there are two alternatives to scrapping / replacing crank. First is to sleeve the crank for the first 2 water seals (stainless sleeve best, but something like 316 not the shite BRP use) and use smaller seals (but keep the existing oil seal, so the sleeve only goes 75% over). Second (my preferred) is to remove the bellows completely. Then bond a baffle internally where the shaft enters the hull and put a shaft seal at that point (as most boats have). Still keep the existing BRP seals (2 x water 1 x oil seals) in case water enters the bilge from other sources. But in this case when the shaft seal fails it is a simple matter to pull the shaft and replace the seal.
@@lucaspaez2437 Second option did, and it was very simple. Remove the belows completely. Get some marine hose about 4" long, correct ID to tightly slide over shaft cone moulding in the hull and hose clamp it tight. 3D print (or mill some nylon or alu) a 1/2" wide circular shim with OD the same as hose ID, and ID the same as new seal OD, and another hose clamp on this shim and you are done. You could even go double seal just like a shaft on a motor boat with 2 shims if you really want! As I remember, you need to put an internal grove on the ID of the shim in order for the seal to sit in to. But by far the easiest solution
hi Redrockat, great video. im ex Saffer too, living in Canberra. I have a 2015 spark 2up. ive never had water in the hull but since going down the ramp and it roll off back from the trailer onto the concrete which hit the jet pump area. at the end of the video youve mentioned the crank to be replaced. big job? do you have a video of this process ?
Hello 🙋🏻♂️ replacing the crank shaft means they the whole engine needs to come out and be stripped so that the crank can come out . It’s a big job I don’t have a video of that yet but I will make one when we do another repair like this one . Sorry to hear that your ski fell off the trailer , that can happen too easy .
Another BRP problem replacing the crankshaft is a big job I would be interested to know what test they put their skis through before they put them out on the market place they have had their fair share of problems over the years ceramic washers exploding in superchargers cracked intercoolers and cracked coolant bottles 2009-2010 drive shafts supercharged blowing up IBR problems etc etc
Holy s**t... that sucks. I now know to try to avoid those model years. There has got to be a way to spray oil or grease this area so the salt water doesn’t just stay in there and rust the crank...
jose ortiz even if you open the hull like in this video and insert a piping system so that you may spray the oil there on the prone to rust area it's still delaying the inevitable and it gonna rust . The update fixed the problem .
@@Redrockat Thanks for the video Redrockat, it was very helpful in finding our leak. I would only like to suggest that there might be alternatives to replacing the crank (such as sleeving the crank in situ with a better material, or even better and easier to install a bespoke shaft seal and ditch the bellows). Either would be far easier and cheaper than replacing the crank for sure! But good vid anyway - thank you man!
jaylosix yes it is salt water use , but the problem is that on the drive shaft itself one can't really get to that point in order to wash the salt away with cleaning products . So this is inevitable with all these models .
Hey guys, don’t beat me up to bad for this question but I just purchased two 2015 sparks.. is there a tool kit I can purchase from seadoo the funky star shaped bolts.. I’m not talking about torx, but the ones in the motor that kind of look like a torx but the teeth stick out rather than a standard screw
Hi there , Seadoo does sell those tools in kits but you may also purchase them from your local hardware or tool shop .They are called E-Torques . Hope this helps thanks for watching and commenting .
Hi there, you are correct sorry what I ment was early 2016 models and that it's been attended to in 2017 . But the problem is that the 2017 models the nose of the crank can turn off now ,it still rusts ... but getting it off is another thing that's almost impossible without stripping the engine . Thank you for your comment
Horrible design...but your engine looks horrible. I had mine for 4 years and a 100 hours in saltwater, just took the axle and PTO off, the water seals are toast, but the crank look like new, no rust 😊 I advice every Spark owner to replace the water seals, and grease up everything ! Or your Spark is more or less worthless... Very bad design on the Spark, shame on you Seadoo !
Do you not ever see sea water? It must be a sea water thing for these crank shafts PTOs to look SO bad like this. I've got 12 hours on my 2015 that I just bought off of someone. Do you have a grease you recommend to keep the PTO and seals happy?
@@stevey500 You don't need to keep the PTO or the seals happy, it's the crankshaft steel that you need to keep happy...as soon as it corrodes you get edges and pits that will continually shred your seals. Two things - BRP have used THE cheapest steel possible, but secondly and way more important WHY PUT THE SEAL ON THE CRANKSHAFT!! (sorry for shouting). Marine engineering 101 - put the seal on the removable shaft, there is no conceivable reason not to do this (as per any other inboard boat design). They've done this on the drawing board to save $0.50 cents, and in doing so cost the consumer potentially thousands...
Yep, they upgraded that part to better material and a crank nose that can be unscrewed so that when this eventually does happen it can be replaced more conveniently.
OneEyeDrone the new developments will take some time to be perfected . Just remember that normal carbon rings do leak air and this makes for problems with the higher powered skis . Making away with them in the future will make for higher pump tunnel pressures and thus better jet flow . It’s really exiting and also pwc in the not to distant future will all be electric and the dc power motors are super powerful thus carbon rings and there attachments will be useless and will be totally faded out as the dc motors has way more power .
we are currently working on 2 and are putting 3 speedy sleeves in the proper location in an attempt to resolve. I am making video and will upload it in the next day or 2. I have the part number for the sleeves as well. Stay tuned and feel free to contact me.
Awesome I hope that the speedy sleeves will work , Ime just worried if rust starts to form underneath the sleeve
If that area was packed with grease, I’d suggest this would be a lot less of an issue!
I just had my 2014 Spark done after 80 hours of salt water use.
BRP Australia supplied the parts at no cost and the labour cost to replace the crank was $1300.00 including the wear ring. In my opinion this should become a recall as it’s not fit for use.
The big clue is they changed the design mid-production.
Production changes are not unusual but this is a change to allow maintenance where maintenance is needed!
Watch this space...
aussicanuck1 awesome thank you
Redrockat where are you in the world?
aussicanuck1 south africa, which part of Australia are you in ? We might be in aus in August
Redrockat Perth and my wife is Capetonian
aussicanuck1 awesome 😊 we are headed down to the sunshine coast 😊 there will be a big boat show 😊
I have a 2016 spark with this problem, only 100 hours of salt water use from new and always well washed out etc. I've just today replaced the 3 x seals (as well as the PTO gasket and the rubber shaft joint + clamps). I did my best with wet dry sandpaper (from 180 up to 1200 grit) to remove the corrosion as much as possible and get it smooth without removing too much material, but from experience I know that it won't work even with best efforts...I give it another 10 hours or so before the new seals are shredded! Changing the crankshaft is uneconomical (given where I reside - Caribbean island) so honestly the alternative is just to scrap the unit! Only 3 years old and 100 hours!! Great for the environment...great job BRP! This is a serious engineering flaw, and I have lots to say on this about BRP for another time.... BUT, there are two alternatives to scrapping / replacing crank. First is to sleeve the crank for the first 2 water seals (stainless sleeve best, but something like 316 not the shite BRP use) and use smaller seals (but keep the existing oil seal, so the sleeve only goes 75% over). Second (my preferred) is to remove the bellows completely. Then bond a baffle internally where the shaft enters the hull and put a shaft seal at that point (as most boats have). Still keep the existing BRP seals (2 x water 1 x oil seals) in case water enters the bilge from other sources. But in this case when the shaft seal fails it is a simple matter to pull the shaft and replace the seal.
Is it not covered under warranty?
@@youarelookinggreatchaveziv6232 no, they give only 12 months, that's it
Did this work?
@@lucaspaez2437 Second option did, and it was very simple. Remove the belows completely. Get some marine hose about 4" long, correct ID to tightly slide over shaft cone moulding in the hull and hose clamp it tight. 3D print (or mill some nylon or alu) a 1/2" wide circular shim with OD the same as hose ID, and ID the same as new seal OD, and another hose clamp on this shim and you are done. You could even go double seal just like a shaft on a motor boat with 2 shims if you really want! As I remember, you need to put an internal grove on the ID of the shim in order for the seal to sit in to. But by far the easiest solution
U fish that engine from the sea bed???? 🤔
Haha
Exactly! I never understand when people pay good money for things used in saltwater and then let it corrode away.
hi Redrockat, great video. im ex Saffer too, living in Canberra. I have a 2015 spark 2up. ive never had water in the hull but since going down the ramp and it roll off back from the trailer onto the concrete which hit the jet pump area. at the end of the video youve mentioned the crank to be replaced. big job? do you have a video of this process ?
Hello 🙋🏻♂️ replacing the crank shaft means they the whole engine needs to come out and be stripped so that the crank can come out . It’s a big job I don’t have a video of that yet but I will make one when we do another repair like this one . Sorry to hear that your ski fell off the trailer , that can happen too easy .
easier way to fix it, ua-cam.com/video/_lET6E-RQog/v-deo.html
Another BRP problem replacing the crankshaft is a big job I would be interested to know what test they put their skis through before they put them out on the market place they have had their fair share of problems over the years ceramic washers exploding in superchargers cracked intercoolers and cracked coolant bottles 2009-2010 drive shafts supercharged blowing up IBR problems etc etc
Holy s**t... that sucks. I now know to try to avoid those model years. There has got to be a way to spray oil or grease this area so the salt water doesn’t just stay in there and rust the crank...
jose ortiz even if you open the hull like in this video and insert a piping system so that you may spray the oil there on the prone to rust area it's still delaying the inevitable and it gonna rust . The update fixed the problem .
@@Redrockat Thanks for the video Redrockat, it was very helpful in finding our leak. I would only like to suggest that there might be alternatives to replacing the crank (such as sleeving the crank in situ with a better material, or even better and easier to install a bespoke shaft seal and ditch the bellows). Either would be far easier and cheaper than replacing the crank for sure! But good vid anyway - thank you man!
Interesting, those seals looked fine to me! Obviously there’s an issue with these shaft splines though! 🤨
The coating in the shaft has come by means of flaking due to rust thus letting water in .
I can't believe how much corrosion has happened in that thing. Must be salt water use ?
jaylosix yes it is salt water use , but the problem is that on the drive shaft itself one can't really get to that point in order to wash the salt away with cleaning products . So this is inevitable with all these models .
Even on the plastic, it looks like salt residue........
Jake Bristow true , and the ocean where it is used has a smaller salt content
Hey guys, don’t beat me up to bad for this question but I just purchased two 2015 sparks.. is there a tool kit I can purchase from seadoo the funky star shaped bolts.. I’m not talking about torx, but the ones in the motor that kind of look like a torx but the teeth stick out rather than a standard screw
Hi there , Seadoo does sell those tools in kits but you may also purchase them from your local hardware or tool shop .They are called E-Torques . Hope this helps thanks for watching and commenting .
Did you find it from Titanic??
Is this problem up to 2016 or 2017 model? The title says 2016 but in the video you say 2017??
Hi there, you are correct sorry what I ment was early 2016 models and that it's been attended to in 2017 . But the problem is that the 2017 models the nose of the crank can turn off now ,it still rusts ... but getting it off is another thing that's almost impossible without stripping the engine . Thank you for your comment
Is this also happening on non salt lake water?
This is in the ocean , it may very well also happen on non salt lake water but will take more time
There is this great stuff called anti corrosion spray about $10 on Amazon you should grab some and spray it on your Jetski.
Tony Gordy so true ☺️ thanks for watching 🌞
Holy s*** that thing sink in the ocean for 20 years?
It's so bad hey 😊
Jesus salt is just killing that thing!
WTF is up with that engine, for the love of god clean that up please. 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮
After seeing this I won't be taking mine in the ocean
What year model is yours ?
@@Redrockat 2021 trixx
@@codypro3255 your pwc has a update on the crank, the nose of the crank can be removed and replaced as soon as this problem starts .
Horrible design...but your engine looks horrible.
I had mine for 4 years and a 100 hours in saltwater, just took the axle and
PTO off, the water seals are toast, but the crank look like new, no rust 😊
I advice every Spark owner to replace the water seals, and grease up everything !
Or your Spark is more or less worthless...
Very bad design on the Spark, shame on you Seadoo !
Do you not ever see sea water? It must be a sea water thing for these crank shafts PTOs to look SO bad like this. I've got 12 hours on my 2015 that I just bought off of someone. Do you have a grease you recommend to keep the PTO and seals happy?
@@stevey500 You don't need to keep the PTO or the seals happy, it's the crankshaft steel that you need to keep happy...as soon as it corrodes you get edges and pits that will continually shred your seals. Two things - BRP have used THE cheapest steel possible, but secondly and way more important WHY PUT THE SEAL ON THE CRANKSHAFT!! (sorry for shouting). Marine engineering 101 - put the seal on the removable shaft, there is no conceivable reason not to do this (as per any other inboard boat design). They've done this on the drawing board to save $0.50 cents, and in doing so cost the consumer potentially thousands...
👏👏👍👌🇳🇴
thats a terrible design ... who thought getting rid of the carbon ring would be a good idea... my dear god
Yep, they upgraded that part to better material and a crank nose that can be unscrewed so that when this eventually does happen it can be replaced more conveniently.
Redrockat hmm didn’t know that, it’s odd that the big skis still use a carbon ring.
OneEyeDrone the new developments will take some time to be perfected . Just remember that normal carbon rings do leak air and this makes for problems with the higher powered skis . Making away with them in the future will make for higher pump tunnel pressures and thus better jet flow . It’s really exiting and also pwc in the not to distant future will all be electric and the dc power motors are super powerful thus carbon rings and there attachments will be useless and will be totally faded out as the dc motors has way more power .
Don’t worry, now they went to using a carbon seal design on the Sparks.