This was really helpful. By the way, Instead of fighting with the tensioner pulley I attached the spring and then pryed the bearing back as far as it would go with a screwdriver wrapped in a towel and then tightened the large bolt down to hold the bearing as far back as it would go. Then the belt went on super easy at which point I loosened the bolt and the belt tightened. All of your videos are helping me through a restoration of my '71. Thanks for taking the time to document so well. Dave
No. 1 or is it 4 has to be at TDC on compression stroke, both cam marks must be in alignment on top of engine, bottom small crank pulley at 0 degrees TDCenter mark, & hole marker in larger adjacent sprocket above at a 34 degree line from vertical. (My older 1800 cc Fiat 124 engine). All teeth must be in perfect alignment - no skips.
#4 cam lobes up @TDC, all the marks aligned, small crank @TDC. I had to pull the exhaust cam a bit to get the belt on. Once it is on spin it around a time or two by hand. Line it back up to TDC with the #4 cam lobes pointed up and you'll e set to stab the distributor for #4 alignment.
So, if I’m just replacing the belt and tensioner-not checking the timing-can I just simply take the old ones out and install the new ones? Without having to worry about the TDC marks?
The cam gears are going to move when you take the belt off. The way to realign the gears is to use all the marks. Also ignition timing will need to be set after belt change.
Instead of using cardboard to protect the finish, why not get some rubber caps for one your pairs of pliers, or wrap them in a couple of layers of electrical tape?
I am replacing my timing belt and water pump along with doing a head job on my 81 Fiat Spyder. Do I have to take the crank pulley off to get the shield off on the bottom. It seems like it’s being held on by something that I can’t see. Also the tensioner bearing how does that come off. I have really enjoyedBeing a subscriber to your channel, you are amazing and immaculate in your work. Keep up the good work! Bob Froese
Hey, where did you get your parts at? I'm rebuilding a 1979 Fiat Spider also. I need help finding the parts I need. Can you help me with any info for parts?
Hey. Hope all is well! I recently installed my waterpump but its leaking for some reason, any reason why? Its leaking from the bottom bolt - Gasket was installed and tightened.
On that one, I pulled the bolt and added some gasket sealer to the threads and the underside of the bolt face where it contacts the pump. My theory is the water is seeping past the washer and lock washer due to the gap around the bolt shaft and leaking there.
Hola. El motor Fiat Twin cam de 8 valvulas que tal es ? Es robusto? La mayoría dicen que son muy buenos pero unos pocos dicen que son frágiles. Me da que el problema de ese motor es el engrase, me han dicho que poniendo un cárter sumidero de aceite más grande y con deflector se solucionaría el problema de engrase de ese maravilloso motor
hola, este motor tiene un cárter de aceite de serie. Para fines de conducción normal, no creo que sea necesario un cárter de aceite más grande. Solo asegúrese de que el nivel de aceite esté lleno y que la lubricación no sea un problema. Los automóviles más viejos consumen más aceite y deben revisarse periódicamente.
hey I could really use some advice, I'm replacing the belt with one I got in a repair kit from autoricambi for my specific spider, I've aligned all the timing marks and pulled as much slack as possible out of each point aside from between the tensioner and exhaust pully yet it seems to not want to go more than just over the tensioner pully bolt, I realized the new belt was a just a bit smaller then the old belt that fit just fine so I don't know if I have the wrong one or it just stretched over time, with that being said id just like to know if you had any thoughts to help, btw its a 1978 1800 spider. thank you
Take the spring off or if you did that, thus begins the slide only the edge of the belt around all the pulleys and find the sweet spot till it magically slides on all of them .
I think I'm too far off for the edge to slip on, my dad who I'm working with on this project with considered even taking the stud out that the pully is on, no sure if that's a good idea or not so that's why I'm looking for second opinions
Okay I am changing the timing belt on my 1971 124 1600cc for the first time, other than the cam marks on the top of engine being aligned with mark and hole, and the crank pulley on bottom being at zero, is there anything else I need to know. Silly question, I’m not sure on to make sure #4 is tdc… I know Distributor Has to be adjusted pointing at number #4….afterwards….
If all the marks are lined up, cams and crank, rotor will be pointing at #4 inside the distributor. Pull the cap and mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing. This will help you make sure everything is pretty much the same when you get the new belt on. You kinda have to pull the cams back to the marks while pulling the belt into the teeth. Loosen the tensioner pulley as well to get enough slack to slide the belt over it. Once on double check all the marks. Stuff moves while pulling on the belt. Turn motor over by hand looking for the slack spot in the belt and set tensioner there. Everything should be as it was when finished but I would check ignition timing with a timing light. If you have any problems shoot me a message over at Eldest Builds on Facebook.
0 degrees on crank and cams lined up is TDC for #4, if distributor is not installed line up rotor with #4 plug terminal inside the cap. You just have to eyeball it, then use timing light and turn distributor with engine starting/running.
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you so much….I ordered the new water pump, belts and tension pulley along with the Texas water heater and new fan from Vicks. The only thing that scares me is the timing belt, lol……your videos are awesome by the way…..
Compared to all that timing light will be a breeze. On the water pump use a dab of gasket sealer on the underside of the bolt, between washer and bolt before it goes in. Had a leak around the bolt heads and had to pull and seal. Timing isn't too hard, loosen the lock down nut on the distributor a little. Pull the vacuum advance hose. Hook pickup to #1 or #4 plug wire and aim the light at the timing indicator. It may help if you put some white paint on the line on the pulley but not necessary. The light goes off and you'll see the line next to the 0,5,10 pointers. Turning the distributor moves the line up or down on the pointers. Move it to the 5 or the 10 pointer and tighten up the nut a little, double check with the light, tighten up the nut all the way, check again. Then turn off the car and tighten the nut some more. I think there are two timing videos. If I can do it so can you.
@@ELDESTBuilds I appreciate that, after watching all your videos on the fiat has helped me out a lot. You make it seem so easy, however I know it’s not. You definitely have a lot of experience and confidence and your work looks awesome. I’m 55 and my very first car was a 1971 fiat, my mother passed away 12 years ago and my father is 79 and diagnosed with stage 3 cancer. Make a long story short, he surprised me recently with this car as a gift. He surprised me with it, although I call this car a frankenstein car because who ever owned prior made unorthodox changes like replacing the front seats with two seats that don’t belong in it. Other weird modifications, but I can’t break my father’s heart because he was trying to do something special for me. So I’m doing the best I can to fix the issues and make her reliable so I can always think of him. So I apologize I am not as educated on this as some, I learn quickly however I just don’t have the experience.
![[ENG] POV ONBOARD drive review | FIAT 124 SPIDER 2000 Pininfarina 50th anniversary edition | 4K](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0OpgCWEisec/mqdefault.jpg)
This was really helpful. By the way, Instead of fighting with the tensioner pulley I attached the spring and then pryed the bearing back as far as it would go with a screwdriver wrapped in a towel and then tightened the large bolt down to hold the bearing as far back as it would go. Then the belt went on super easy at which point I loosened the bolt and the belt tightened. All of your videos are helping me through a restoration of my '71. Thanks for taking the time to document so well. Dave
Good idea, I'll give it a try next time. Glad the videos are helping
Thanks, por compartir tu conocimientos. Me ha edificado.
de nada
No. 1 or is it 4 has to be at TDC on compression stroke, both cam marks must be in alignment on top of engine, bottom small crank pulley at 0 degrees TDCenter mark, & hole marker in larger adjacent sprocket above at a 34 degree line from vertical. (My older 1800 cc Fiat 124 engine). All teeth must be in perfect alignment - no skips.
#4 cam lobes up @TDC, all the marks aligned, small crank @TDC. I had to pull the exhaust cam a bit to get the belt on. Once it is on spin it around a time or two by hand. Line it back up to TDC with the #4 cam lobes pointed up and you'll e set to stab the distributor for #4 alignment.
I can't believe this is the rusty anchor you pulled out of that car!
Thanks, it is hours on cleaning, painting and polishing.
So, if I’m just replacing the belt and tensioner-not checking the timing-can I just simply take the old ones out and install the new ones? Without having to worry about the TDC marks?
The cam gears are going to move when you take the belt off. The way to realign the gears is to use all the marks. Also ignition timing will need to be set after belt change.
Instead of using cardboard to protect the finish, why not get some rubber caps for one your pairs of pliers, or wrap them in a couple of layers of electrical tape?
Thanks, for the tip
I am replacing my timing belt and water pump along with doing a head job on my 81 Fiat Spyder. Do I have to take the crank pulley off to get the shield off on the bottom. It seems like it’s being held on by something that I can’t see. Also the tensioner bearing how does that come off. I have really enjoyedBeing a subscriber to your channel, you are amazing and immaculate in your work. Keep up the good work! Bob Froese
Tensioner is just a bolt. I don't remember on the shield, I cut it all off to remove it. Pain even with all the bolts and accessories remove.
There's also a way to change the belt without removing the pulley but if you're not sure it's a good time to replace the seal as well.
Thanks for the quick response, you’re the best!
Hey, where did you get your parts at? I'm rebuilding a 1979 Fiat Spider also. I need help finding the parts I need. Can you help me with any info for parts?
Vickauto.com
Hey. Hope all is well! I recently installed my waterpump but its leaking for some reason, any reason why? Its leaking from the bottom bolt - Gasket was installed and tightened.
On that one, I pulled the bolt and added some gasket sealer to the threads and the underside of the bolt face where it contacts the pump.
My theory is the water is seeping past the washer and lock washer due to the gap around the bolt shaft and leaking there.
@@ELDESTBuilds Ahh thanks, and that fixed that for you? And any gasket maker will do the trick right?
Any gasket maker will work. it just needs a little. Sealed it up for me. The bolts to the water pipe connection had to be treated as well.
@@ELDESTBuilds Thanks! Have a good night
Hola. El motor Fiat Twin cam de 8 valvulas que tal es ? Es robusto? La mayoría dicen que son muy buenos pero unos pocos dicen que son frágiles. Me da que el problema de ese motor es el engrase, me han dicho que poniendo un cárter sumidero de aceite más grande y con deflector se solucionaría el problema de engrase de ese maravilloso motor
hola, este motor tiene un cárter de aceite de serie. Para fines de conducción normal, no creo que sea necesario un cárter de aceite más grande. Solo asegúrese de que el nivel de aceite esté lleno y que la lubricación no sea un problema. Los automóviles más viejos consumen más aceite y deben revisarse periódicamente.
hey I could really use some advice, I'm replacing the belt with one I got in a repair kit from autoricambi for my specific spider, I've aligned all the timing marks and pulled as much slack as possible out of each point aside from between the tensioner and exhaust pully yet it seems to not want to go more than just over the tensioner pully bolt, I realized the new belt was a just a bit smaller then the old belt that fit just fine so I don't know if I have the wrong one or it just stretched over time, with that being said id just like to know if you had any thoughts to help, btw its a 1978 1800 spider. thank you
Lossen the spring off the tensioner pulley and slide it out of the way. Put belt on then tension the pulley. Recheck alignment marks
@@ELDESTBuildsmy bad I didn't mention it but I did do that, so even with it moved all the way to the left it only reaches that far
Take the spring off or if you did that, thus begins the slide only the edge of the belt around all the pulleys and find the sweet spot till it magically slides on all of them .
I've seen the tensioner pulley off, put belt on, holding the alignment marks, and then working the tensioner pulley on
I think I'm too far off for the edge to slip on, my dad who I'm working with on this project with considered even taking the stud out that the pully is on, no sure if that's a good idea or not so that's why I'm looking for second opinions
Okay I am changing the timing belt on my 1971 124 1600cc for the first time, other than the cam marks on the top of engine being aligned with mark and hole, and the crank pulley on bottom being at zero, is there anything else I need to know. Silly question, I’m not sure on to make sure #4 is tdc… I know Distributor Has to be adjusted pointing at number #4….afterwards….
If all the marks are lined up, cams and crank, rotor will be pointing at #4 inside the distributor. Pull the cap and mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing. This will help you make sure everything is pretty much the same when you get the new belt on. You kinda have to pull the cams back to the marks while pulling the belt into the teeth. Loosen the tensioner pulley as well to get enough slack to slide the belt over it. Once on double check all the marks. Stuff moves while pulling on the belt. Turn motor over by hand looking for the slack spot in the belt and set tensioner there. Everything should be as it was when finished but I would check ignition timing with a timing light. If you have any problems shoot me a message over at Eldest Builds on Facebook.
0 degrees on crank and cams lined up is TDC for #4, if distributor is not installed line up rotor with #4 plug terminal inside the cap. You just have to eyeball it, then use timing light and turn distributor with engine starting/running.
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you so much….I ordered the new water pump, belts and tension pulley along with the Texas water heater and new fan from Vicks. The only thing that scares me is the timing belt, lol……your videos are awesome by the way…..
Compared to all that timing light will be a breeze. On the water pump use a dab of gasket sealer on the underside of the bolt, between washer and bolt before it goes in. Had a leak around the bolt heads and had to pull and seal.
Timing isn't too hard, loosen the lock down nut on the distributor a little. Pull the vacuum advance hose. Hook pickup to #1 or #4 plug wire and aim the light at the timing indicator. It may help if you put some white paint on the line on the pulley but not necessary. The light goes off and you'll see the line next to the 0,5,10 pointers. Turning the distributor moves the line up or down on the pointers. Move it to the 5 or the 10 pointer and tighten up the nut a little, double check with the light, tighten up the nut all the way, check again. Then turn off the car and tighten the nut some more. I think there are two timing videos. If I can do it so can you.
@@ELDESTBuilds I appreciate that, after watching all your videos on the fiat has helped me out a lot. You make it seem so easy, however I know it’s not. You definitely have a lot of experience and confidence and your work looks awesome.
I’m 55 and my very first car was a 1971 fiat, my mother passed away 12 years ago and my father is 79 and diagnosed with stage 3 cancer. Make a long story short, he surprised me recently with this car as a gift. He surprised me with it, although I call this car a frankenstein car because who ever owned prior made unorthodox changes like replacing the front seats with two seats that don’t belong in it. Other weird modifications, but I can’t break my father’s heart because he was trying to do something special for me. So I’m doing the best I can to fix the issues and make her reliable so I can always think of him.
So I apologize I am not as educated on this as some, I learn quickly however I just don’t have the experience.
Which size has the nut witch which you Turn it around in the End ?
I think it was a 34mm on the crank nut
whole lot easier without the car....
My preferred method