Small Bust Adjustment for Pearl dress/top

You can find my Size charts also in the pictures of my items Pearl dress and Pearl top in Etsy:
galiacouture.e...
galiacouture.e...
Find Your size, according Size chart 1.
If Your measurements are same or close to the
measurements of some size, it's likely you don't
need FBA or SBA.
You may need SBA if:
•If your Full bust is in a smaller size column
than your waist. Or it's closer to the smaller size.
• If the toile fits well on most areas, but it looks
or you feel it too loosely only at the bust.
• If your Full bust is in a smaller size column,
than your Waist and you have chosen the size,
according your Full Bust, but when you try on
the toile, the neckline is too tight and the side seams
are moved towards the back.
If it seems to need SBA,
use Size chart 2 to find your size.
Choose your size , according your Over Bust
( High Bust).
This is the size of your torso, no matter how
small or large are your breasts.
( If the waist is in a different column size, this can
be altered later easily).
How to calculate how much width to reduce:
Your real Full Bust - Full Bust from the column
you have chosen, according your Over Bust.
The difference is a negative number, when
it's needed SBA. Divide the number by two,
because we work with Half Bodice.
Example:
My measurements are:
• Full Bust 83cm
• Natural waist 68cm
According Size chart 1 they are in different
Size columns. Let's see in the Size Chart 2
which size is best for me.
•My OverBust is 81cm. According it, I will choose
size 4, because my Over Bust is closer to this size.
(My Full Bust - Full Bust size 4) : 2 = the needed
reduction for Half Bodice.
(83-86) : 2 = -1.5cm.
In the Bust line I will subtract 0.5cm from
Center Front piece and 1cm from Side Front piece.
I will shorten the princess seam 0.6cm at the Bust point.
( 0.6cm for one size difference; 1.2cm for two and etc.)
My Over Bust is 1cm smaller than Over Bust size 4.
Therefore I will reduce it 0.5cm on the Center Front.
See how to draft the Front Facing fir the adjusted bodice:
• Draft Front facing aft...
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