I finished the sensor relocation on my 2003 C5 Corvette today. I did this job about 2 years ago but I didn't install the braided extender hose at that time. So, here we are again. (I bought the extender hose with fittings on Amazon for $99). I didn't want to disturb any more than necessary and I didn't want to drill any holes. I did not remove anything except the plastic engine cover. Although it was a royal pain in the butt, I was able to disconnect the old sensor and pull it out. For me, the hardest part was threading the extender hose into the engine. I could not get the threads lined up while rotating the hose. I had my son come over and somehow he got it threaded on his first try. 8-) Now, my oil pressure gage no longer thinks it's a windshield wiper. It was continuously slamming full scale and back to zero. Now it sits rock steady at 42 PSI at cold idle. If (when?) this new sensor fails, it will be very easy to replace it.
That's a great idea! I've had some issues with oil filter relocation kits in the past, but they certainly make things easier! Replacing the sensor by removing the intake or not is a pain either way, just personal preference!
Great video! I'll be doing this very soon. I have had to pull out the intake on my Jeep Jk a couple of times. This looks to be about the same job. I think I might replace and relocate the the oil pressure sensor the air check valve while I'm at it. Thanks for taking the time to video this one. Keep Pounding!
nice job ,but I did mine today yes i did my today and must say yours went smooth but I went another way I actually just cut a square out of my wiper cover underneath and went right to it was much easier I have a question for u did u replace the the inline screen I try to but could get the sensor to back in with the new filter maybe you can tell me how it works and how the inline filter goes in
Fantastic video - thank you. Love all your stuff and they’re so helpful for a beginner. When cleaning the intake manifold and the top of the block, were you just spraying ordinary degreaser? I wouldn’t think there’s any reason not to use that but I wanted to make sure I don’t ruin something with that. Thanks!
Is there any reason you wouldn’t move the sensor to avoid al this work a second time, my 99 is on 3rd sensor (1st for me) and I plan on installing a hose to move it out for better access. Good or bad idea?
I am looking at doing this soon and was wondering if you thought that the intake could be removed with the fuel rail still attatched? Disconnect fuel line and electrical but leave rail bolted to the intake.
Agreed, that's why I went with an ACDelco sensor. There were several off brands for as cheap as $10! And you're right, it's possible to replace without removing the intake. That said, removing the intake was an easy process and made sensor replacement super simple (also giving a good chance to clean under it). Thanks for watching!
2 things, 1st get a sender unit relocation kit and 2nd the only really reason why i would do this work is to really inspect my intake n clean it good b4 installing a catch can..This is too much work to change one single tiny part, i rather cut the water flow part by the windshield if thats the only thing being replaced n run a relocation kit, epoxy glue the thing back n sand it n paint make it look like nothing happened
That's a fair point! I have had problems with oil filter relocation kits in the past and am not wanting to have more oil leaks. Hopefully this is not a process that has to be repeated often enough to be a problem!
Great Video,I did this the RIGHT way also! The LS Engine is fairly easy to work on. Change intake gaskets and knock sensors while in there!
I finished the sensor relocation on my 2003 C5 Corvette today. I did this job about 2 years ago but I didn't install the braided extender hose at that time. So, here we are again. (I bought the extender hose with fittings on Amazon for $99). I didn't want to disturb any more than necessary and I didn't want to drill any holes. I did not remove anything except the plastic engine cover. Although it was a royal pain in the butt, I was able to disconnect the old sensor and pull it out. For me, the hardest part was threading the extender hose into the engine. I could not get the threads lined up while rotating the hose. I had my son come over and somehow he got it threaded on his first try. 8-)
Now, my oil pressure gage no longer thinks it's a windshield wiper. It was continuously slamming full scale and back to zero. Now it sits rock steady at 42 PSI at cold idle. If (when?) this new sensor fails, it will be very easy to replace it.
That's a great idea! I've had some issues with oil filter relocation kits in the past, but they certainly make things easier! Replacing the sensor by removing the intake or not is a pain either way, just personal preference!
Great video! I'll be doing this very soon. I have had to pull out the intake on my Jeep Jk a couple of times. This looks to be about the same job. I think I might replace and relocate the the oil pressure sensor the air check valve while I'm at it. Thanks for taking the time to video this one. Keep Pounding!
I so appreciate these videos; I learn so much!
We appreciate you watching!
intentionally watching in 144p. good stuff
Great job thanks
nice job ,but I did mine today yes i did my today and must say yours went smooth but I went another way I actually just cut a square out of my wiper cover underneath and went right to it was much easier I have a question for u did u replace the the inline screen I try to but could get the sensor to back in with the new filter maybe you can tell me how it works and how the inline filter goes in
Fantastic video - thank you. Love all your stuff and they’re so helpful for a beginner. When cleaning the intake manifold and the top of the block, were you just spraying ordinary degreaser? I wouldn’t think there’s any reason not to use that but I wanted to make sure I don’t ruin something with that. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
To answer your question, yes it was just ordinary degreaser from Chemical Guys which did a fantastic job overall.
Did you have enough room to just leave the fuel line connected out of the way? Thanks for the video, about to do this.
No, unfortunately there wasn't enough play in the lines to allow that, the disconnectors are cheap and definitely necessary
Nice... very informative video...
Thanks...
Is there any reason you wouldn’t move the sensor to avoid al this work a second time, my 99 is on 3rd sensor (1st for me) and I plan on installing a hose to move it out for better access. Good or bad idea?
Off the top of my head, I would say you're likely to get inaccurate pressure readings with a remote setup, but may still be close enough?
I am looking at doing this soon and was wondering if you thought that the intake could be removed with the fuel rail still attatched? Disconnect fuel line and electrical but leave rail bolted to the intake.
Unfortunately the injectors have to come out to remove the intake manifold. Not a lot of extra work if you've already gotten everything else removed
What was the torque for for the 10mm bolts
What did you torque the bolts to when you put the manifold back on?
The correct torque spec is 44-in pounds for the first pass in an alternating pattern from center, the final pass is 89 in pounds
I thought i had to replace one on my Fox. Got plugged with Teflon tape residue someone put on it I learned
Well that's lucky!
@@4KMotoring yeah but when pressure drops to 0 there is pucker factor
@@BrailsfordsRides that means you could have Teflon tape residues circulating in the engine right now. :-(
@@MetaView7nope the car is gonezos
I just found I have an oil leak, I knew my sender was bad, do you think this is the culprit
Unfortunately these old LS motors have several frequent causes of leaks. If it is coming from the rear of the motor, there's a slight chance
@@4KMotoring Thanks for the quick response! well I’ll try this first cause it needs to be done anyway 🙄
I've changed mine before it was a bitch, you need a thin wall socket i did it without taking any of that off
I figured that was possible, but knowing my luck I knew it wouldn't go well 🤣
@@4KMotoring the thin walled socket is the answer without that special socket do not attempt
Buying a cheap sensor not smart you’ll be replacing again no need to remove intake took me 35 min replace sensor
Agreed, that's why I went with an ACDelco sensor. There were several off brands for as cheap as $10!
And you're right, it's possible to replace without removing the intake. That said, removing the intake was an easy process and made sensor replacement super simple (also giving a good chance to clean under it). Thanks for watching!
Much respect to you for calling the removing of that intake manifold "super easy". One day I might try it.
2 things, 1st get a sender unit relocation kit and 2nd the only really reason why i would do this work is to really inspect my intake n clean it good b4 installing a catch can..This is too much work to change one single tiny part, i rather cut the water flow part by the windshield if thats the only thing being replaced n run a relocation kit, epoxy glue the thing back n sand it n paint make it look like nothing happened
That's a fair point! I have had problems with oil filter relocation kits in the past and am not wanting to have more oil leaks. Hopefully this is not a process that has to be repeated often enough to be a problem!