I'm imagining Clive walking around random pubs, finding a burnt out bulb, opening his trench coat and pulling out a replacement, and quietly swapping them 😅
I've probably said this before, but your voice, your demeanor, and your personality just make me so happy. Your expertise and knowledge completes the whole package. Thank you for sharing yourself and your talents with us!
Clive the lightbulb fairy, simply put the broken light bulb underneath your pillow and in the morning you will wake up with the circuit diagram for the lightbulb underneath your pillow
Clive, I’ve been having a rough go lately, but I want to let you know that your videos here and guides on your site have helped me stay centered and calm. Thank you.
Im one of the people that love watching you fight to get into the bulbs. Your videos are so amazing i love watching and I've learned so much from them.
When I've opened them myself, as I'm wont to do, I use the same method, although usually abusing my needlenose pliers. Unwrap the thing like an old ham can or sardine tin. Oops, giving away my age, huh?
Not sure this is what happened here but I've fixed a few LED bulbs in the past that went dim because one of the current sensing resistors (usually 2 in parallel) was poorly soldered and went open. Several of them failed like this after less than a year of operation, but after being fixed have now been in use for over a decade.
Indeed, I'd have gone into my random box of SES lamps, pulled out the crappiest/least suitable for my home use (which is still in working order - so a CFL) and returned back to the pub, fitting the replacement in place of the failed-and-burned LED.
@@Lucien86 those too, complete with thorium mantles! actually i have pretty much every generation of bulbs, incendecent, flourescent, compact flourescent, halogen, 1st gen led, current leds in 50 different types, metal halide, high pressure sodium, mercury vapor, i would kill for a SOX/low pressure sodium lamp and fixture!! probably a ton of them in a warehouse here in chicago area that they ripped out and replaced with led years ago
I don't remember Big Clive saying he just stole the lamp from the live working display... I saw it differently, the pub realises it has a faulty bulb, replaces it, and Big Clive took it home...
I had a similarly malfunctioning bulb and I used it to add an entertaining random flickering effect for Halloween visitors. With the added excitement of it possibly bursting into flames, good times were had by all.
It is interesting to consider the evolution of lighting over the years if it was a really old pub. From whale oil to coal gas to carbon incandescent to tungsten incandescent to florescent to LED.
Would they have even had carbon filament bulbs? A rather famous bar in the history of my city got electric lights in the 1920s and it was one of the first bars with electric power in the whole country. By that point it was well into the age of tungsten filament bulbs.
@@chartle1yeah, I constantly have to stop people from putting their fingers in exposed lamp holders. Must be every time I go out I see the couple next to me reaching up to the wall and attempting to stick their finger in an empty socket.
Hey Big Clive, this will interest you! Although NOT LED, I have a 1929 (94 years old) carbon filament light bulb, made to mark the 50th Anniversary of Edison's Electric Light (1879-1929). The bulb was made in the United States, and runs on US mains voltage. The bulb is mounted on wooden base, and has two uninsulated metal thumb screws for power. The underside is insulated with wax! Definitely no UL or CE Marks! The bulb works, and as long as you're careful, you don't get electrocuted! I bought the bulb on eBay in 2013 from an American seller for around £50.00. It's a thing of beauty, and probably quite rare? What do you think of that then? And no, you're NOT reverse-engineering it! 🤣
I can recall my dad telling me that when they refurbished the library he worked in they found some of the cupboards still had vintage lamps in them from the very earliest era of electric lighting. He was hoping to get one, but the contractors took them all.
@@bigclivedotcom How many LED light bulbs will still be working in a hundred years from now? Not many, I'll wager? ... The lamps that the contractors took almost certainly ended up on eBay! ... Carbon filament lamps are horribly inefficient, but like tungsten, they're beautiful!
@@Matt_Quinn-CaledonianTV You assume correctly. A step-down transformer and an electronic dimmer switch. Due to the age and fragility, and to avoid "shocking" the carbon filament, the lamp should not receive full voltage immediately, but, as you say, be illuminated gently. Additionally, I only run the lamp at low voltage, so it just glows a beautiful golden colour, this also avoids darkening of the glass envelope through carbon deposition. It really is a beautiful object, and it really should be enclosed in a display case, or a bell jar or the like. It's remarkable its survived for almost 100 years! If it was damaged or broken, I'd be really saddened!
@@MrFunkia haha yes, fun fact: I had an opportunity to move to Chattanooga and work at the VW plant just before all that happened, I feel like I dodged a bullet. Besides, Chattanooga is becoming pricier to live in and they're having growing pains including infrastructure, road and crime problems.
I'm amusing myself imagining you (or me) with a giant Santa Claus sack of different replacement bulbs, merrily swapping out dead ones, as there are a wide variety of interesting ones out there. It would probably be more practical to just nick the dead one, obtain a suitable replacement, and go back and install it, but that would involve a lot more extra trips and bookkeeping.
Dr Clive soft of fixed the bulb. 🤣 .I thought we might see a bad solder joint, but once open its difficult to see anything. 👀. Very interesting bulb. 2x👍
@@NinoJoel actually, I've saw some that did and while arcing, also spewed metal sparks from the evaporating solder. In one case, a Philco television with gate turn-off SCRs in the horizontal output circuit, causing a carbon trail to form before my eyes and before I could kill the power, arced at high voltage and current, literally causing a small blind spot in my retina. Managed to fix it, once I recovered from the UV burn, as it was a family member's TV, but the surgery on the board was rather extensive. Never ran into such a problem with Sony, who sensibly put the SG-613's off of the frigging board. Another prize winner, although a distant second, was an MOV vaporizing before my eyes at 2 feet distance. Blown fuse, all circuits that could blow the fuse checked out unshorted. Popped in a fuse, plugged in my cheater cord and the damned thing turned into a six inch ball of yellow-orange plasma. Didn't break over with my meter, but 120 volts vaporized it. The customer was a 90+ year old arthritic woman, who jumped from her chair and toward the door like an 18 year old. Obviously, I wasn't expecting that, otherwise I'd have asked her to leave the room. The only thing left of that MOV was the leads. Soldered in a replacement, checked for damage, which was none, due to its properly being placed inside of the chassis, popped in a new fuse and the unit worked perfectly.
@@spvillano it is lightbulb and has no high voltage or high current circuits that could arc any significant time. Glowing permanently red hot as a result of over current is not the same lol But interesting story nonetheless
I have dozens of such 4W "filament" flame-style bulbs at home in our antique chandeliers and wall lamps, I buy them in bulk from China. When they fail, it's exactly like this, turns flickering or dimming, some has a dead LED that can be easily spotted when dimmed. I think their demise starts when a LED fails. Some works for years, on the whole lot I have in service, the failure rate is a few %s . I've always thought sending you some cadavers for the fun of the autopsy, but looks like you've found a nice test subject by yourself :P But mine are the cheapest one, not dimmable. Wonder what's inside for being made that cheap...
The minute I see that brown acrylic staking compound I start to worry. It's a notorious failure mode in a lot of gear. They use it because it's cheap but it's hygroscopic over time and it starts to leak and can start fires. Cost a number of TV manufacturers millions in rework around G2 stages and I've seen a number of hockey Puck down light supplies die from it. Just recently did a couple of CRO supplies with the issue, one was an Insteak the other surprise was a Tek, but they had a 3rd party supply fitted.
The obvious solution is, if such a potted circuit is found, immerse it into a large container of water, such as the Atlantic or Pacific ocean. Hopefully, alongside whatever village idiot chose a hygroscopic compound for potting.
@@spvillano You nailed it Bro. It's called HAST. But almost nobody does it thoroughly. Acrylic staking which is cheap compared to RTV or MOXI. Modern replacement for PCBA sealant because no Xylene better for health apparently perhaps maybe?. So now forcing APL or Acrylic polymer many places this lacquer suffers the same issue, that if it is not set at 80C for 4-8 HRS depending on how many um layer then it suffers reversion (hygyroscopic induction of water and becomes as conductive as the day it was born). When it is set it turns into a Gordian Knot that water struggles to penetrate, when it's done poorly it becomes a long term failure mode that can crop up at any moment, that is currently plaguing all PCBA manufactures.
@@Funkylogic So, the problem isn't just the compound itself. It's that manufacturers are cheeping out and not following the directions. This is why we can't have nice things.
I wonder how dimming level effects power consumption. Partly over all consumption (i.e.; does dimming save you on your electric bill), but also is there a particular dimming level that maximizes heat inside the base, increasing the chance of scortching.
Had about 4 of these fail in a luminaire (but Morrisons were pretty good about replacing the early life failures). The other two are still going strong after 4 years though, wonder why?
I must say, I do like that test box, It's a very useful, viable solution for quick testers and professionals alike, as these users know where, NOT to poke you fingers. It is It's crudity and hazardous to use in the wrong hands that makes It a good tool, like a big lathe or an excavator, lethal in the wrong hands.
I'm definitely a professional, but we all can get a bit complacent and need a rude reminder on occasion. Better to get it from a coworker though. Was checking my coffeepot, which wasn't heating up. Had the bottom off, didn't feel like unplugging it, so rather than resistance measurements, I went to voltage measurements and found what I had suspected initially, a failed thermal fuse. So, then I moved to disconnect it from the mains. While doing so, while sitting in shorts on a ceramic tile over sand over concrete floor, my knuckle brushed the hot and I completed a circuit from knuckle to ground, via my scrotum. UK standard 230 volts, 50 hz, so it was tingly. Had it been US voltage, I probably wouldn't have even noticed it. Complacency can get you killed, or at least part one doesn't want cooked, lightly seared on the reality grille. Nastiest I got was 35kv pulsating DC 7875 hz, riding on 130 VDC. Pinhole in the insulation in the second anode output of a flyback transformer. Arced to my right index finger as I reseated the board after adjusting vertical height, arced from my left index finger to the tuner ground. After a serious run on those Zenith TV modules, Zenith sent one of the design team engineers to review what was going on and I brought it up. The engineer said, to blow the regulator chip the way it failed, I had to have drawn 3 amps arm to arm of DC current. Yeah, felt like it. My heart had actually briefly stopped, which was an exceptionally weird sensation, then jumped and restarted, couldn't feel half of my forearm down to my hands. Drove home and called the office, taking three tries to dial, told them I got lit up badly, reordered the module and took the rest of the day off. Sore as hell the following day.
"Is this part of the manufacturing or is this just a huge mess?" The two are not necessarily antithetical. As for being the lamp fairy...maybe the lamp bear?
Some time ago i dismantled a very similar led lamp which had an identical flickery behaviour; the circuitry looked very similar to yours, and the LED strips also exhibited occasional flickering. While handling them (after breaking the glass globe), one of the four snapped very easily, so my guess is that maybe the glass(?) substrate cracks, therefore the LEDs occasionally stop working.
I must find the time to learn more about simple electronics, you make it look so easy, but I bet you’ve been doing this for most of your working life. You’d make a great teacher, assuming your not already 👍
Nice interesting lamp autopsy, and given the state of the electronics (and how hot the lamp was getting), you may well have done that pub a favor! I'd have personally gone back home afterwards, grabbed the least interesting drop in replacement (whether it be LED, CFL, tungsten, halogen, etc) then returned to the pub and given them the replacement to fit. That way, they can see you're helping them out rather than giving them cause for concern.
@@ianhosier4042 if it was my own home, then yeah. But for a pub that you're replacing the bulb in... nah, too expensive. Just get the cheapest possible bulb, of any type, and call it a day!
@@TheSpotify95 my first thing is, ensure everything I don't want on the internet get denied DNS and gateway. Serious things, they get a devoted vlan at a minimum.
Speaking early about them cramming bits into the small base, do you think we'll be seeing a change in the near-ish future where lights have a new socket type to better work with leds? It really seems that advancements have moved beyond the classic screw in styles, but also seems to be a set in stone to them because so many exist in households.
@@bigclivedotcom Sorry, I'm not really up with the tech. In the 1990's I think, B&Q and similar, did 20V systems, is there some reason you suggest 24V? Just out of interest.
Bulb made by BEL? Bharat Electronics, Limited in India. With incandescent lights you can pretty much see what's defective. No such luck anymore with LED lights. I thought places of questionable repute used red lights, not blue. Our fire dept's engine house has a red light. I wonder if that means anything? 😮 Thanks, Clive for making my day. I just don't feel right until I take something apart, either really or virtually on Clive's UA-cam channel. 😍
They use blue lights to make it more difficult to find one's veins for injections. A red light at the fire station is generally tied into the paging system to indicate a current active call, much like a whistle/siren. It can also sometimes be used to indicate a fault or alarm condition in their alarm system or some other type of mechanical system.
@@RT-qd8yl really? I always palpated for a vein. But then, I was a medic. If I couldn't find a vein in the dark, the poor sod was dead. Especially, given I was never shy at starting an external jugular and once, a penile line. In all cases, with the victim and his buddies armed with machine guns. Got my electronics certification in '79, medical in the late '80's in SF medicine, IT cert in '90's and got certified REF in '10 (Retired, Extremely Flatulent). Oh, chemical, biological and nuclear in '82. Explosives in '85. In my spare time, I part oceans with a toothpick, alas, I've little spare time. :P
We use these in common hallways and some brands are just trash. Find a few flicker dim and black crumbs inside now and again. High quality and full swap in the chandeliers.
A kind of guilty pleasure of mine is opening defective LED lamps and dismantling them 😇 Just to see how they are made, how the designs and manufacturing evaluates. I regularly "steal" defective LED lamps. I live alternately in the Netherlands and Belgium. And there you will find special waste bins for defective LED lamps in many places, such as the hardware store, supermarkets, shops that sell electronics, drugstores and more. And usually combined with bins for empty batteries. And often also bins for defective electronics/e-waste. (I'm actually curious what this is like in other countries. They also have these types of packs in many places so that it is easy for people to dispose of e-waste in a better way than throwing it in household waste or dumping it.) Great "dumster dive" spots for people like me who like tinkering with e-waste 🤪🤩 Officially, this is considered stealing if you don't ask/do it without permission. But I'm bold enough to just do it. And I've fished out more than enough treasures 🥰 I've been doing this since I was a little boy of about 6 years old, crafting with e-waste (but I don't think that term really existed back then) and in the roughly 30 years that I've been doing this, I already have a large network of stores. where I can look in the e-waste bins for materials. I think at least 80 percent of my electronics are e-waste, received or second hand. And also a lot with my brother and mother. And I also regularly help good friends with something when I have new acquisitions. Just like charities that help other people in need with household goods and related items. We are dying in e-waste and that mountain is getting bigger and bigger with equipment such as poor quality LED lamps and electronics that are difficult or impossible to repair. My experience is that with LED filement lamps such as in this video the driver is often defective. But the files still work like Clive in the video. I have a collection there that I want to use to make new lamps with other waste material such as waste wood. Or one or more of the files are defective. Then I carefully smash the glass into a sturdy plastic bag and remove the working fillets. Due to lack of time, they are still waiting for repurposing, but Big Clive has nice projects on his channel to reuse them.
I do much the same myself, largely as a hobby. Repair trashed vacuum cleaners and fans, largely. A neighbor had recently tossed out a rather expensive tower fan unit, so I scooped it up. Some testing confirmed my suspicion of a blown thermal fuse, due to cat hair and dust clogging the motor and fan bearings. Alas, when I dismantled the motor, the windings crumbled, oxidized by overheating and yes, a blown thermal fuse. Scrapped it, retaining the bearings and controller board, which are potentially useful parts and fairly easily stored. Of course, the manufacturer used tamper resistant screws, otherwise people could lubricate their own motor and fan bearings, rather than buy a replacement every couple of years. My father and I had a spring routine, lubricating heater, fans and other motor bearings every spring, before we needed the air conditioner and just as we were beginning to need the fans. Did the vacuum cleaners as well, once I had begun rehabilitating old models. Repaired and cleaned up units made excellent holiday gifts too.
Why is the power module doesnt having a main smoothing capacitor with the diagram? ...and I feel the theory of LED lamp lifetime seems to fail in everywhere.
Can we talk about that glorious golden warm white color of that lamp? I don't know if it looks like this irl as well but the color in combination with the slightly yellow-ish glass was beautiful.
Like opening a can of cornered beef. Amazing how much stuff they can cramp into a little E14 fitting. Capacitor survived very well next to that 2-Watt heater resistor.
Could you do a video on how these dimmable bulbs actually dim on a triac dimmer? I would have assumed that the current regulator and sensing resistors would essentially maintain consistent light all the way until the waveform became too scarce to provide adequate voltage, then you get flicker. This seems to be how non-dimming lamps react to a triac. I've read that expensive LED drivers are measuring the phase of the triac dimmer and translating that into a pwm duty cycle, but surely this cheap bulb in this video is not doing that. So what's it doing?
Did my own tear of a G9 pagazzi 3.5w led 240v. Bridge rectifier, 2 resistors , 1 capacitor? And an unknown chip. Couldn't find chip details. No great signings of overheating but lamp still blown.
The driver circuit failed, he jumpered in a driver board to supply the lamp and get the flickering bulb to light up. Which may well have been the root cause for the failure in the first place. Load popping off and on randomly can kill already close to rating components. Especially, as Clive mentioned, that electrolytic that's inside of the lamp base. Surprised me, I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me at first.
The marvel is how they manage to squeeze ANY form of PSU (no matter how minimalist) into such a small space, and do this for millions of devices. It wasn't that long ago when LED drivers were reasonably chunky!!
Somewhere in a cupboard I still have one of the first Edison-base compact fluorescent lamps. These things had wire-wound ballasts and weighed a tonne! They were also huge, maybe 80 mm diametre and almost 200 mm long. Philips, late 1980s I think. My parents bought them for the hallway light that was usually on for most of the day. That light saw multiple generations of CFLs and I was incredibly glad when LEDs finally became good enough to replace those. Not having to wait two minutes for the light to reach something akin to full brightness was a major bonus!
Had one of these sitting on a shelf for ages, after it'd broken just like this one. Thought it was just typical dry solder joints but now I know! ...that the rest of them in the house will probably go the same way.
Bravo on you for not setting this up as a "Prank Video" where you stole all the 💡 from the business; Then took them apart as part of your normal content as way to get the views of both types of content.
At my work we have LED wall clock that stop working. They find faulty 1A power adapter with USB-A socket and order new one. But it take month until they order and new arrived and faulty one was still laying around clock untouched so I bring it home for check. It show 5V voltage but switching on and off quickly. Visibly two bad capacitor on low side I change them with same capacity but little higher voltage because dont have same. I test it on full load for few hour and no explosion. I'm not sure it's save to use with smartphone, expensive equipment or loved electronics or without supervision on it but happy for repair it and keep it like better alternative then cheap chinese charger that came with something.
I have a full string of these type led bulbs , courtesy of a lightning strike , because I am curious if any survived the little bit of an over voltage event . Be interesting to play around with anyway . I am amazed at how many components they managed to stuff in that tiny lamp base there .
I agree with how impressive the amount of components in that tiny base is. It seems we are living in exciting times when it comes to lighting technology.
Wonder if there are any good e14 led lamps at all. This form factor is just not suitable for LEDs. Even e27 is bad. And with the electronics they use for most led lamps (both the components and the designs), finding a good one is a serious quest
I wonder if the lamp was rated for 120 V and was miss sold into the 240 V market. By the way, was this bulb from the pub 2 with disco lights in the loo?
I briefly considered the disco lights in the loo and decided, I really, really don't want to know. Life should retain some mysteries. Still, I doubt it. That simple of a circuit would likely fail if it was a US voltage circuit in the Kingdom. At least, per my somewhat limited experience. Spent 5 years in Qatar, which uses the UK electrical system, but incessantly sold Europlug supplied appliances. And just long enough to actually step on a UK caltrop plug. Most of the time, they sensibly roll over and lay on their side politely. But, none of those plugs ever tried to kill me, unlike US plugs. The US has a third world power system, which matches our health care system that's 20 years behind Europe and well, even Cuba, who developed a lung cancer vaccine we're only now finally testing for approval. The best in the world at mediocrity. But then, a wise old Brit once observed, "The US will eventually do the right thing - after exhausting every other possibility".
Wow that is a lot of circuitry in a tiny space. As you were peeling off the base I couldn't help wondering how they fit the filament LEDs into the glass bulb, the hole at the bottom did not look large enough.
For these sorts of LED bulbs, the bulb itself is almost always plastic, not glass. As such, they may well have just inserted the filaments while the bulb had a wider opening, and then heat-formed the base into the smaller shape after the components were already inside. It's hard to tell from the video, but another possibility is that the filament assembly is designed in such a way that it can be compressed more tightly together when being inserted into the lamp, and then will "spring out" once inside to its full size.
@@mernokimuvekThat would be convection, not conduction. Why would a lower density (and more expensive) helium mixture conduct heat better than plain old free air?
@@stargazer7644 Did you fail from physics? Hydrogen and helium are better conductors of heat because their atoms are smaller. From this it should be also obvious that xenon and other heavy gases are worse conductors of heat. Isn't this supposed to be basic knowledge?
I was watching some Bell LED lamps flickering today and ended up just fading them off completely as they were distracting in the room. I'm now tempted to take one of them down and see what's inside. Did your one only flicker when dimmed to a particular level?
It's made with the same machines as tungsten bulbs, but no vacuum. Sometimes an inert gas like helium is used to help couple heat from the LED filaments to the glass envelope.
Just like old Christmas lights, one goes out so does the whole string. My understanding is the LED's are over driven thus pulsed. Way back when I remember indicator LED's just got 12 volts DC.
Had to get rid of my dimmer simply because less and less worked with it and filament bulbs aren't available in shops any more, do you think you could include one of those lvr's inside of one and help more be compatible?
I have had 3 lamps fail a weird way now. They begin to flicker, then get darker, and in my case, 2 opposing side filaments are still slightly glowing, 2 don't. Life expectancy was a few months each. Really bothers me, did I get a bad batch or is my lamp socket killing them...
@@bigclivedotcom I have one of these lamps in a desk lamp, it is on for longer than the others, it is from the same batch, and it is still alive. That's why I tend to look at the fitting as the culprit. It is an enclosed ceiling lamp with an 100W incandescent rating, but I wonder if the LEDs get too hot in there. Though there is an other difference, I selected the desk lamp out because it was running more silently than the ones I put up on the ceiling. Maybe they vibrate themselfes to death?
Ok, how many components were in the base? All of that on the sheet? I only saw the cap. I'll watch again as soon as I clean up all the crud that fell out.
@@bigclivedotcom so a half sidecutter is not a pair then....how about a pair of scissors....one blade will be a scissor...or half a scissor? crap, i`ll never learn english.....
luckily my native language is danish....my english is only conversational, not academic or with any fancy accent ;-) a pair of scissor lifts??? oh man... @@Matt_Quinn-CaledonianTV
Question, Now that LED lights are standard and incandescent have been phased out, would it not be cheaper and safer to run house lighting circuits on 12v only?
I don't know if it's the same where you live, but around here lighting and wall outlets are generally on the same circuit. I'm not sure my 18V iPad charger would be happy with 12 volts, and my fridge and dehumidifier certainly wouldn’t be.
No, that would be tyrannical. Do you want to force nerds like me to convert eveything to LED and stop using dozens of fluorescent lamps from my collection that I hoarded for years?
I had a dimmable Amazon E26 LED lamp in the kitchen spotlights that would run for about 30 mins, then shut down. I thought it had died until I left it out for a while and reinstalled it. It worked again then shut down. These lamps from Amazon had some weight to them but they were CRAMMED with soft thermal goo, the entire circuitry was encased in it, it didn't survive my prying!
I have been in the restaurant industry for 30 years and I have seen so many people "nicking" bits and pieces from many of the places I have worked, I never say anything, I feel as if they wanted a momento
If you get caught stealing bulbs, can you expect a light sentence?
LED to jail?
@@oldbatwit5102 Off to Prism for the both of you!
the jury is OUT ?
That was brilliant.
Get handcuffed by the screws
I'm imagining Clive walking around random pubs, finding a burnt out bulb, opening his trench coat and pulling out a replacement, and quietly swapping them 😅
I've probably said this before, but your voice, your demeanor, and your personality just make me so happy. Your expertise and knowledge completes the whole package. Thank you for sharing yourself and your talents with us!
Hehe sharing himself
Clive the lightbulb fairy, simply put the broken light bulb underneath your pillow and in the morning you will wake up with the circuit diagram for the lightbulb underneath your pillow
I think you managed to avoid the entire pub going up in flames.
That's one insurance job that will need rethinking ... 😄
@@I_Don_t_want_a_handleWonkey Pub arsonists looking at this and rethinking their defense strategy...
Clive, I’ve been having a rough go lately, but I want to let you know that your videos here and guides on your site have helped me stay centered and calm. Thank you.
I'm glad they've helped. Hope things get smoother soon.
Watching you peel away the metal base was somehow oddly satisfying. Don't mind that it took a little while. 🙂
I enjoy doing it, But often end up bleeding on it.
It's like peeling a scab, a little bit at a time, so satisfying. 😊
@BreatheScotland 🚑🏥
and shockingly little blood!
I not so much, I press arrow->right a few times to skip 5 seconds per click. We all have our ways.
LED's sure have changed the lighting industry.
Clive has always been here to get into the thick of it, thank GOD for that
Thank you Clive
I can just imagine the staff at the pub complaining how “people will nick anything, the buggers tool one of our globes”!
Im one of the people that love watching you fight to get into the bulbs. Your videos are so amazing i love watching and I've learned so much from them.
When I've opened them myself, as I'm wont to do, I use the same method, although usually abusing my needlenose pliers. Unwrap the thing like an old ham can or sardine tin.
Oops, giving away my age, huh?
1:53 I enjoy seeing you pull things apart. It gives me ideas of how to disassemble my dubiously obtained goods
Not sure this is what happened here but I've fixed a few LED bulbs in the past that went dim because one of the current sensing resistors (usually 2 in parallel) was poorly soldered and went open. Several of them failed like this after less than a year of operation, but after being fixed have now been in use for over a decade.
I probably would have returned and replaced it with a new bulb, because you should always leave a place better than you found it.
Indeed, I'd have gone into my random box of SES lamps, pulled out the crappiest/least suitable for my home use (which is still in working order - so a CFL) and returned back to the pub, fitting the replacement in place of the failed-and-burned LED.
@@TheSpotify95 i have bulbs that are still working that are 3 mandated efficiency replacement generations old!
@@frogz Is that candles? Oil lamps? Gas lamps?
@@Lucien86 those too, complete with thorium mantles! actually i have pretty much every generation of bulbs, incendecent, flourescent, compact flourescent, halogen, 1st gen led, current leds in 50 different types, metal halide, high pressure sodium, mercury vapor, i would kill for a SOX/low pressure sodium lamp and fixture!! probably a ton of them in a warehouse here in chicago area that they ripped out and replaced with led years ago
I don't remember Big Clive saying he just stole the lamp from the live working display...
I saw it differently, the pub realises it has a faulty bulb, replaces it, and Big Clive took it home...
You've just stolen their precious flame-effect lamp!!! They had saved up for ages to get that one, and now it's been demolished 😆
I had a similarly malfunctioning bulb and I used it to add an entertaining random flickering effect for Halloween visitors. With the added excitement of it possibly bursting into flames, good times were had by all.
@technoman9000 I'll make sure to put my defective bug zapper bulb back out near the road on Halloween.
@@technoman9000no need to prepare a bonfire then
@@ianhosier4042 what and leave the mother-in-law out of the festivities?
@@tactileslut It just Van-de-graaff's random kids as they pass by XD
"Sir, sir! Put down the bulb sir! Sir! You are scaring the children! Sir? Sir!"
"Nooo! I am the buuulllb faaaaaairryy!"
The Disassembly ASMR is strong with this one 😄
It is interesting to consider the evolution of lighting over the years if it was a really old pub. From whale oil to coal gas to carbon incandescent to tungsten incandescent to florescent to LED.
...with the LED being the least likely to reach its promised runtime.
You forgot candles.
Would they have even had carbon filament bulbs? A rather famous bar in the history of my city got electric lights in the 1920s and it was one of the first bars with electric power in the whole country. By that point it was well into the age of tungsten filament bulbs.
Our favorite bear in a pub of ill repute? Say it isn't so!! And I agree that you becoming the lamp-fairy would be satisfyingly appropriate.
When you do the busy work of peeling something open, I use that time to check the comments while listening. So keep on it!
You may have nicked the lamp ~ but you probably have saved the pub from burning to the ground. So thumbs up from me 👍🏻
but left an energized socket that someone could stick their finger in. 🤔
@@chartle1yeah, I constantly have to stop people from putting their fingers in exposed lamp holders. Must be every time I go out I see the couple next to me reaching up to the wall and attempting to stick their finger in an empty socket.
@@volvo09 I know what you mean. It's a bloody epidemic.
@@volvo09didn't he say it was from a pub aka an establishment that serves alcohol? 🤔x2. 🤣
@@chartle1fortunatly Clive is not in the US, so the energized socket will probably not harm anyone...
Hey Big Clive, this will interest you!
Although NOT LED, I have a 1929 (94 years old) carbon filament light bulb, made to mark the 50th Anniversary of Edison's Electric Light (1879-1929). The bulb was made in the United States, and runs on US mains voltage. The bulb is mounted on wooden base, and has two uninsulated metal thumb screws for power. The underside is insulated with wax! Definitely no UL or CE Marks!
The bulb works, and as long as you're careful, you don't get electrocuted! I bought the bulb on eBay in 2013 from an American seller for around £50.00. It's a thing of beauty, and probably quite rare?
What do you think of that then? And no, you're NOT reverse-engineering it! 🤣
They're counterfeit and mass produced in a Chinese factory for 6 cents each.
Thats pretty neat.
I can recall my dad telling me that when they refurbished the library he worked in they found some of the cupboards still had vintage lamps in them from the very earliest era of electric lighting. He was hoping to get one, but the contractors took them all.
@@bigclivedotcom How many LED light bulbs will still be working in a hundred years from now? Not many, I'll wager? ... The lamps that the contractors took almost certainly ended up on eBay! ... Carbon filament lamps are horribly inefficient, but like tungsten, they're beautiful!
@@Matt_Quinn-CaledonianTV You assume correctly. A step-down transformer and an electronic dimmer switch. Due to the age and fragility, and to avoid "shocking" the carbon filament, the lamp should not receive full voltage immediately, but, as you say, be illuminated gently. Additionally, I only run the lamp at low voltage, so it just glows a beautiful golden colour, this also avoids darkening of the glass envelope through carbon deposition. It really is a beautiful object, and it really should be enclosed in a display case, or a bell jar or the like. It's remarkable its survived for almost 100 years! If it was damaged or broken, I'd be really saddened!
I think the manufacturers got smart, they're configuring devices to behave differently when being used in a Big Clive video.
Clive didn't spot the GPS chip 😻
Do you mean like VW diesel cars, when they go for their MOT test?!??
@@MrFunkia haha yes, fun fact: I had an opportunity to move to Chattanooga and work at the VW plant just before all that happened, I feel like I dodged a bullet. Besides, Chattanooga is becoming pricier to live in and they're having growing pains including infrastructure, road and crime problems.
I'm amusing myself imagining you (or me) with a giant Santa Claus sack of different replacement bulbs, merrily swapping out dead ones, as there are a wide variety of interesting ones out there. It would probably be more practical to just nick the dead one, obtain a suitable replacement, and go back and install it, but that would involve a lot more extra trips and bookkeeping.
A lamp that gets hot... so it was becoming an incandescent. No wonder it wasn't putting out much light.😂
Would have been funny had it filled with smoke
Well, Trump wanted incandescent bulbs back... ;)
Dr Clive soft of fixed the bulb. 🤣 .I thought we might see a bad solder joint, but once open its difficult to see anything. 👀.
Very interesting bulb. 2x👍
A Bad solder joint does not glow red hot
@@NinoJoel actually, I've saw some that did and while arcing, also spewed metal sparks from the evaporating solder.
In one case, a Philco television with gate turn-off SCRs in the horizontal output circuit, causing a carbon trail to form before my eyes and before I could kill the power, arced at high voltage and current, literally causing a small blind spot in my retina.
Managed to fix it, once I recovered from the UV burn, as it was a family member's TV, but the surgery on the board was rather extensive.
Never ran into such a problem with Sony, who sensibly put the SG-613's off of the frigging board.
Another prize winner, although a distant second, was an MOV vaporizing before my eyes at 2 feet distance. Blown fuse, all circuits that could blow the fuse checked out unshorted. Popped in a fuse, plugged in my cheater cord and the damned thing turned into a six inch ball of yellow-orange plasma. Didn't break over with my meter, but 120 volts vaporized it.
The customer was a 90+ year old arthritic woman, who jumped from her chair and toward the door like an 18 year old.
Obviously, I wasn't expecting that, otherwise I'd have asked her to leave the room. The only thing left of that MOV was the leads.
Soldered in a replacement, checked for damage, which was none, due to its properly being placed inside of the chassis, popped in a new fuse and the unit worked perfectly.
@@spvillano it is lightbulb and has no high voltage or high current circuits that could arc any significant time.
Glowing permanently red hot as a result of over current is not the same lol
But interesting story nonetheless
@@NinoJoel ok, led is precisely the same as incandescent. Got ya.
That you get wrong modern semiconductors and vacuum tubes is right, gotya.
@@spvillano that reply makes absolutely no sense.
only clive would have a moral quandary about stealing a bulb that should've been in the trash months ago
😇
Really, I'd have zero qualms over it, but then what I spend in the pub, they can accord a case of the damned things. Per week.
I really enjoy your videos. One word of caution hold the glass bulb in cloth or something to protect you from breaking glass. Cheers mate.
I think in this failure mode it just turned into a very noisy resistor that sometimes decides to emit light.
Any resistor will emit light if you use it wrong enough...
Well, either a glowbar resistor or a smoke emitting diode.
@@spvillano Well the whole thing was charred inside, it was just being hundreds of resistors everywhere.
@@kyoudaiken hundreds, seriously?
O could get drunk and not manage that manglement!
@@spvillano I'm not drunk. Charcoal is conductive. So all that conductive material creates resistors that aren't in the schematics.
I enjoy that you don't skip
I have dozens of such 4W "filament" flame-style bulbs at home in our antique chandeliers and wall lamps, I buy them in bulk from China. When they fail, it's exactly like this, turns flickering or dimming, some has a dead LED that can be easily spotted when dimmed. I think their demise starts when a LED fails. Some works for years, on the whole lot I have in service, the failure rate is a few %s . I've always thought sending you some cadavers for the fun of the autopsy, but looks like you've found a nice test subject by yourself :P
But mine are the cheapest one, not dimmable. Wonder what's inside for being made that cheap...
Likely, no controller chip, regulator and cap, just diode and dropping resistor.
The minute I see that brown acrylic staking compound I start to worry. It's a notorious failure mode in a lot of gear. They use it because it's cheap but it's hygroscopic over time and it starts to leak and can start fires. Cost a number of TV manufacturers millions in rework around G2 stages and I've seen a number of hockey Puck down light supplies die from it. Just recently did a couple of CRO supplies with the issue, one was an Insteak the other surprise was a Tek, but they had a 3rd party supply fitted.
The obvious solution is, if such a potted circuit is found, immerse it into a large container of water, such as the Atlantic or Pacific ocean.
Hopefully, alongside whatever village idiot chose a hygroscopic compound for potting.
@@spvillano You nailed it Bro. It's called HAST. But almost nobody does it thoroughly. Acrylic staking which is cheap compared to RTV or MOXI. Modern replacement for PCBA sealant because no Xylene better for health apparently perhaps maybe?.
So now forcing APL or Acrylic polymer many places this lacquer suffers the same issue, that if it is not set at 80C for 4-8 HRS depending on how many um layer then it suffers reversion (hygyroscopic induction of water and becomes as conductive as the day it was born).
When it is set it turns into a Gordian Knot that water struggles to penetrate, when it's done poorly it becomes a long term failure mode that can crop up at any moment, that is currently plaguing all PCBA manufactures.
@@Funkylogic So, the problem isn't just the compound itself. It's that manufacturers are cheeping out and not following the directions. This is why we can't have nice things.
@@Funkylogic the bear of it is, if they wanted cheap, they could've even went with bakelite. :/
I wonder how dimming level effects power consumption. Partly over all consumption (i.e.; does dimming save you on your electric bill), but also is there a particular dimming level that maximizes heat inside the base, increasing the chance of scortching.
Had about 4 of these fail in a luminaire (but Morrisons were pretty good about replacing the early life failures). The other two are still going strong after 4 years though, wonder why?
I must say, I do like that test box, It's a very useful, viable solution for quick testers and professionals alike, as these users know where, NOT to poke you fingers.
It is It's crudity and hazardous to use in the wrong hands that makes It a good tool, like a big lathe or an excavator, lethal in the wrong hands.
I'm definitely a professional, but we all can get a bit complacent and need a rude reminder on occasion. Better to get it from a coworker though.
Was checking my coffeepot, which wasn't heating up. Had the bottom off, didn't feel like unplugging it, so rather than resistance measurements, I went to voltage measurements and found what I had suspected initially, a failed thermal fuse.
So, then I moved to disconnect it from the mains. While doing so, while sitting in shorts on a ceramic tile over sand over concrete floor, my knuckle brushed the hot and I completed a circuit from knuckle to ground, via my scrotum. UK standard 230 volts, 50 hz, so it was tingly. Had it been US voltage, I probably wouldn't have even noticed it.
Complacency can get you killed, or at least part one doesn't want cooked, lightly seared on the reality grille.
Nastiest I got was 35kv pulsating DC 7875 hz, riding on 130 VDC. Pinhole in the insulation in the second anode output of a flyback transformer. Arced to my right index finger as I reseated the board after adjusting vertical height, arced from my left index finger to the tuner ground. After a serious run on those Zenith TV modules, Zenith sent one of the design team engineers to review what was going on and I brought it up. The engineer said, to blow the regulator chip the way it failed, I had to have drawn 3 amps arm to arm of DC current.
Yeah, felt like it. My heart had actually briefly stopped, which was an exceptionally weird sensation, then jumped and restarted, couldn't feel half of my forearm down to my hands. Drove home and called the office, taking three tries to dial, told them I got lit up badly, reordered the module and took the rest of the day off. Sore as hell the following day.
Yeah you want to be careful.
Clive's autopsies are the best.
"Is this part of the manufacturing or is this just a huge mess?" The two are not necessarily antithetical.
As for being the lamp fairy...maybe the lamp bear?
Some time ago i dismantled a very similar led lamp which had an identical flickery behaviour; the circuitry looked very similar to yours, and the LED strips also exhibited occasional flickering. While handling them (after breaking the glass globe), one of the four snapped very easily, so my guess is that maybe the glass(?) substrate cracks, therefore the LEDs occasionally stop working.
Yeah, mechanically intermittent contact seems fairly likely, considering the lamp decided to work as Clive tilted it.
A nice soothing voice to start a stressful Monday with x
Hope your day isn't too stressful.
I must find the time to learn more about simple electronics, you make it look so easy, but I bet you’ve been doing this for most of your working life. You’d make a great teacher, assuming your not already 👍
Nice interesting lamp autopsy, and given the state of the electronics (and how hot the lamp was getting), you may well have done that pub a favor!
I'd have personally gone back home afterwards, grabbed the least interesting drop in replacement (whether it be LED, CFL, tungsten, halogen, etc) then returned to the pub and given them the replacement to fit. That way, they can see you're helping them out rather than giving them cause for concern.
I would have gone back and gave them a colour changing bulb
@@ianhosier4042 if it was my own home, then yeah. But for a pub that you're replacing the bulb in... nah, too expensive. Just get the cheapest possible bulb, of any type, and call it a day!
@@ianhosier4042 color changing smartbulb. That way one can change colors with one's phone, making everyone wonder if they're losing their mind.
@@spvillano Would be nice for your own personal use. I have some Philips Hue lights (mostly strip lights) and they're pretty neat.
@@TheSpotify95 my first thing is, ensure everything I don't want on the internet get denied DNS and gateway.
Serious things, they get a devoted vlan at a minimum.
Speaking early about them cramming bits into the small base, do you think we'll be seeing a change in the near-ish future where lights have a new socket type to better work with leds? It really seems that advancements have moved beyond the classic screw in styles, but also seems to be a set in stone to them because so many exist in households.
I think that's the problem; if you introduce a new socket, you'll just have an XKCD 927 situation.
I'd like to see future houses use a 24V lighting circuit and dedicated holders.
@@bigclivedotcom Sorry, I'm not really up with the tech.
In the 1990's I think, B&Q and similar, did 20V systems, is there some reason you suggest 24V? Just out of interest.
@@stephenlee5929 24V involves half the current of a 12V system, But both are good options.
Loving the LED liberating larceny.
Bulb made by BEL?
Bharat Electronics, Limited in India.
With incandescent lights you can pretty much see what's defective. No such luck anymore with LED lights.
I thought places of questionable repute used red lights, not blue. Our fire dept's engine house has a red light. I wonder if that means anything? 😮
Thanks, Clive for making my day. I just don't feel right until I take something apart, either really or virtually on Clive's UA-cam channel. 😍
Bell Lighting.
They use blue lights to make it more difficult to find one's veins for injections. A red light at the fire station is generally tied into the paging system to indicate a current active call, much like a whistle/siren. It can also sometimes be used to indicate a fault or alarm condition in their alarm system or some other type of mechanical system.
@@bigclivedotcom wonder if its the same company as was British Electric Lamps Limited aka B.E.L.L. ?
@@RT-qd8yl really? I always palpated for a vein.
But then, I was a medic. If I couldn't find a vein in the dark, the poor sod was dead. Especially, given I was never shy at starting an external jugular and once, a penile line. In all cases, with the victim and his buddies armed with machine guns.
Got my electronics certification in '79, medical in the late '80's in SF medicine, IT cert in '90's and got certified REF in '10 (Retired, Extremely Flatulent).
Oh, chemical, biological and nuclear in '82. Explosives in '85.
In my spare time, I part oceans with a toothpick, alas, I've little spare time. :P
We use these in common hallways and some brands are just trash. Find a few flicker dim and black crumbs inside now and again. High quality and full swap in the chandeliers.
Or super cheap and who cares when they fail?
Always a balancing act, based upon expended man-hours in the end.
A kind of guilty pleasure of mine is opening defective LED lamps and dismantling them 😇 Just to see how they are made, how the designs and manufacturing evaluates.
I regularly "steal" defective LED lamps. I live alternately in the Netherlands and Belgium. And there you will find special waste bins for defective LED lamps in many places, such as the hardware store, supermarkets, shops that sell electronics, drugstores and more. And usually combined with bins for empty batteries. And often also bins for defective electronics/e-waste.
(I'm actually curious what this is like in other countries. They also have these types of packs in many places so that it is easy for people to dispose of e-waste in a better way than throwing it in household waste or dumping it.)
Great "dumster dive" spots for people like me who like tinkering with e-waste 🤪🤩
Officially, this is considered stealing if you don't ask/do it without permission. But I'm bold enough to just do it.
And I've fished out more than enough treasures 🥰
I've been doing this since I was a little boy of about 6 years old, crafting with e-waste (but I don't think that term really existed back then) and in the roughly 30 years that I've been doing this, I already have a large network of stores. where I can look in the e-waste bins for materials.
I think at least 80 percent of my electronics are e-waste, received or second hand. And also a lot with my brother and mother. And I also regularly help good friends with something when I have new acquisitions. Just like charities that help other people in need with household goods and related items.
We are dying in e-waste and that mountain is getting bigger and bigger with equipment such as poor quality LED lamps and electronics that are difficult or impossible to repair.
My experience is that with LED filement lamps such as in this video the driver is often defective. But the files still work like Clive in the video. I have a collection there that I want to use to make new lamps with other waste material such as waste wood.
Or one or more of the files are defective. Then I carefully smash the glass into a sturdy plastic bag and remove the working fillets. Due to lack of time, they are still waiting for repurposing, but Big Clive has nice projects on his channel to reuse them.
I do a bit of sneaky dumpster diving myself when I find a juicy one.
I do much the same myself, largely as a hobby. Repair trashed vacuum cleaners and fans, largely. A neighbor had recently tossed out a rather expensive tower fan unit, so I scooped it up. Some testing confirmed my suspicion of a blown thermal fuse, due to cat hair and dust clogging the motor and fan bearings.
Alas, when I dismantled the motor, the windings crumbled, oxidized by overheating and yes, a blown thermal fuse.
Scrapped it, retaining the bearings and controller board, which are potentially useful parts and fairly easily stored.
Of course, the manufacturer used tamper resistant screws, otherwise people could lubricate their own motor and fan bearings, rather than buy a replacement every couple of years.
My father and I had a spring routine, lubricating heater, fans and other motor bearings every spring, before we needed the air conditioner and just as we were beginning to need the fans. Did the vacuum cleaners as well, once I had begun rehabilitating old models.
Repaired and cleaned up units made excellent holiday gifts too.
Admitting that you are stealing defective light bulbs is the most you thing i have ever Heard 😂
Why is the power module doesnt having a main smoothing capacitor with the diagram? ...and I feel the theory of LED lamp lifetime seems to fail in everywhere.
Fault finding, my favourite! 👍
It was still intoxicated Clive good job you rescued it lol.
I, too, went out for Sunday lunch with my daughter today, and am also stammering and slurring a little! Sunday lunch today, Clive?
Just the video I’ve been waiting for Clive! I’ve got the guts of one of these bulbs with the same fault lol
Can we talk about that glorious golden warm white color of that lamp? I don't know if it looks like this irl as well but the color in combination with the slightly yellow-ish glass was beautiful.
I think it is a golden white style.
Bar Staff: Ok, I get nicking the glasses BUT THE F#ING LIGHT BULBS!
Like opening a can of cornered beef. Amazing how much stuff they can cramp into a little E14 fitting. Capacitor survived very well next to that 2-Watt heater resistor.
Could you do a video on how these dimmable bulbs actually dim on a triac dimmer? I would have assumed that the current regulator and sensing resistors would essentially maintain consistent light all the way until the waveform became too scarce to provide adequate voltage, then you get flicker. This seems to be how non-dimming lamps react to a triac. I've read that expensive LED drivers are measuring the phase of the triac dimmer and translating that into a pwm duty cycle, but surely this cheap bulb in this video is not doing that. So what's it doing?
Did my own tear of a G9 pagazzi 3.5w led 240v. Bridge rectifier, 2 resistors , 1 capacitor? And an unknown chip. Couldn't find chip details. No great signings of overheating but lamp still blown.
Brilliant thanks Clive quite interesting how it suddenly started working, maybe the burnt glue was going conducive?
The driver circuit failed, he jumpered in a driver board to supply the lamp and get the flickering bulb to light up.
Which may well have been the root cause for the failure in the first place. Load popping off and on randomly can kill already close to rating components.
Especially, as Clive mentioned, that electrolytic that's inside of the lamp base. Surprised me, I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me at first.
Thanks
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks. Much appreciated.
The marvel is how they manage to squeeze ANY form of PSU (no matter how minimalist) into such a small space, and do this for millions of devices. It wasn't that long ago when LED drivers were reasonably chunky!!
Somewhere in a cupboard I still have one of the first Edison-base compact fluorescent lamps. These things had wire-wound ballasts and weighed a tonne! They were also huge, maybe 80 mm diametre and almost 200 mm long. Philips, late 1980s I think. My parents bought them for the hallway light that was usually on for most of the day. That light saw multiple generations of CFLs and I was incredibly glad when LEDs finally became good enough to replace those. Not having to wait two minutes for the light to reach something akin to full brightness was a major bonus!
Stolen - The lamp that was hot even before you turned it on!
When Big Clive removes a VAS chip from a lamp, is that a VAS-ectomy?
Had one of these sitting on a shelf for ages, after it'd broken just like this one. Thought it was just typical dry solder joints but now I know! ...that the rest of them in the house will probably go the same way.
Bravo on you for not setting this up as a "Prank Video" where you stole all the 💡 from the business; Then took them apart as part of your normal content as way to get the views of both types of content.
At my work we have LED wall clock that stop working. They find faulty 1A power adapter with USB-A socket and order new one. But it take month until they order and new arrived and faulty one was still laying around clock untouched so I bring it home for check. It show 5V voltage but switching on and off quickly. Visibly two bad capacitor on low side I change them with same capacity but little higher voltage because dont have same. I test it on full load for few hour and no explosion. I'm not sure it's save to use with smartphone, expensive equipment or loved electronics or without supervision on it but happy for repair it and keep it like better alternative then cheap chinese charger that came with something.
The landlord knows which pub it was 😆
I doubt they even noticed.
Why u stole a Lamp man?!?! 😂
I'm a lumen-thief.
Neat. And good to see the filaments on their best behavior for the rest of the video hehe.
I have a full string of these type led bulbs , courtesy of a lightning strike , because I am curious if any survived the little bit of an over voltage event .
Be interesting to play around with anyway .
I am amazed at how many components they managed to stuff in that tiny lamp base there .
I agree with how impressive the amount of components in that tiny base is. It seems we are living in exciting times when it comes to lighting technology.
This video is getting more and more interesting the longer you dig the more you find 😂
Bigclive, "I see dead lamps."
Yeeheee! 😅
Nobbled it from the pub.
I think many people might perhaps done similar.
Cheers Clive.
Good days.
@0:18 - Light it like you stole it - Big Clive
Wonder if there are any good e14 led lamps at all. This form factor is just not suitable for LEDs. Even e27 is bad. And with the electronics they use for most led lamps (both the components and the designs), finding a good one is a serious quest
I wonder if the lamp was rated for 120 V and was miss sold into the 240 V market. By the way, was this bulb from the pub 2 with disco lights in the loo?
I briefly considered the disco lights in the loo and decided, I really, really don't want to know.
Life should retain some mysteries.
Still, I doubt it. That simple of a circuit would likely fail if it was a US voltage circuit in the Kingdom. At least, per my somewhat limited experience.
Spent 5 years in Qatar, which uses the UK electrical system, but incessantly sold Europlug supplied appliances. And just long enough to actually step on a UK caltrop plug. Most of the time, they sensibly roll over and lay on their side politely.
But, none of those plugs ever tried to kill me, unlike US plugs. The US has a third world power system, which matches our health care system that's 20 years behind Europe and well, even Cuba, who developed a lung cancer vaccine we're only now finally testing for approval.
The best in the world at mediocrity.
But then, a wise old Brit once observed, "The US will eventually do the right thing - after exhausting every other possibility".
Wow that is a lot of circuitry in a tiny space. As you were peeling off the base I couldn't help wondering how they fit the filament LEDs into the glass bulb, the hole at the bottom did not look large enough.
For these sorts of LED bulbs, the bulb itself is almost always plastic, not glass. As such, they may well have just inserted the filaments while the bulb had a wider opening, and then heat-formed the base into the smaller shape after the components were already inside.
It's hard to tell from the video, but another possibility is that the filament assembly is designed in such a way that it can be compressed more tightly together when being inserted into the lamp, and then will "spring out" once inside to its full size.
The globe has a hole big enough for the filament structure to be placed in and then the two glass sections fused together.
@@foogod4237 The bulb is actually glass. Some higher quality bulbs are filled with helium-oxygen mixture to conduct heat away from the LEDs.
@@mernokimuvekThat would be convection, not conduction. Why would a lower density (and more expensive) helium mixture conduct heat better than plain old free air?
@@stargazer7644 Did you fail from physics? Hydrogen and helium are better conductors of heat because their atoms are smaller. From this it should be also obvious that xenon and other heavy gases are worse conductors of heat. Isn't this supposed to be basic knowledge?
I was watching some Bell LED lamps flickering today and ended up just fading them off completely as they were distracting in the room. I'm now tempted to take one of them down and see what's inside. Did your one only flicker when dimmed to a particular level?
I didn't try dimming this one.
1:57 Is that a clock in the background? (I only have a few at home)
It was my phone.
I wondered why pubs are always so dark. Its Clive nicking all the LED bulbs.
Sorry if this sounds a daft question but, is this bulb made like wire filament bulbs eg with a vacuum?
It's made with the same machines as tungsten bulbs, but no vacuum. Sometimes an inert gas like helium is used to help couple heat from the LED filaments to the glass envelope.
"Today on BBC News - Isle of Man's Man's Man Steals A Dead Lightbulb, THOUSANDS affected!"
It is an E14 socket, Clive.
aka SES.
@@wirdy1 Circular reference; does not compute.
Only BIgclive would go to a pub and take....A dead LED bulb! I endorse this activity 100% 😜
How would one go about sending you a little circuit device the size of a quarter to look at?
That black stuff is called assembly gunge, found in all defunct electronics.
All the electronics in the base, zero electronics in the glass cone/drop/bulb.
That makes this lamp appealing and looking like an incandescent lamp. 😉
I quite like the electronics in the glass section. Like a little museum exhibit.
@@bigclivedotcom Sure, but not in a classical lamp/chandelier. 😉
Just like old Christmas lights, one goes out so does the whole string. My understanding is the LED's are over driven thus pulsed. Way back when I remember indicator LED's just got 12 volts DC.
You could have a reference of how it's supposed to look inside - by the magic of stealing two of them :)
Had to get rid of my dimmer simply because less and less worked with it and filament bulbs aren't available in shops any more, do you think you could include one of those lvr's inside of one and help more be compatible?
You can still get Halogen versions.
@@dogwalker666 if I could I would have
@@phonotical Oh I have just ordered a carton of halogen candle bulbs for that very reason.
Given how dim most LED lamps are, you probably don't need it anyway.
Potentially you also stopped a fire from happening. Good job you did borrow the bulb. 🥴👍
I have had 3 lamps fail a weird way now. They begin to flicker, then get darker, and in my case, 2 opposing side filaments are still slightly glowing, 2 don't. Life expectancy was a few months each. Really bothers me, did I get a bad batch or is my lamp socket killing them...
Probably bad lamps. The higher power lamps have shorter lifespans.
@@bigclivedotcom I have one of these lamps in a desk lamp, it is on for longer than the others, it is from the same batch, and it is still alive. That's why I tend to look at the fitting as the culprit. It is an enclosed ceiling lamp with an 100W incandescent rating, but I wonder if the LEDs get too hot in there. Though there is an other difference, I selected the desk lamp out because it was running more silently than the ones I put up on the ceiling. Maybe they vibrate themselfes to death?
I just wonder where you got these testing toys?
Ok, how many components were in the base? All of that on the sheet? I only saw the cap. I'll watch again as soon as I clean up all the crud that fell out.
They were all present in a very crusty state.
1:16 why is it called a pair of sidecutters? i only see one tool?
Because it has a pair of blades.
@@bigclivedotcom so a half sidecutter is not a pair then....how about a pair of scissors....one blade will be a scissor...or half a scissor?
crap, i`ll never learn english.....
luckily my native language is danish....my english is only conversational, not academic or with any fancy accent ;-)
a pair of scissor lifts??? oh man... @@Matt_Quinn-CaledonianTV
Replaced one of those last night. Kept it thinking I'd tear it down to see what failed. Now I don't have to. Or do I?
Question, Now that LED lights are standard and incandescent have been phased out, would it not be cheaper and safer to run house lighting circuits on 12v only?
I don't know if it's the same where you live, but around here lighting and wall outlets are generally on the same circuit. I'm not sure my 18V iPad charger would be happy with 12 volts, and my fridge and dehumidifier certainly wouldn’t be.
The changeover would be the tricky bit.
No, that would be tyrannical. Do you want to force nerds like me to convert eveything to LED and stop using dozens of fluorescent lamps from my collection that I hoarded for years?
@@Ea-Nasir_Copper_CoAnd where I live having the lights and wall outlets on the same circuit is frowned upon.
The original background, good to see that again rather than the black.
I had a dimmable Amazon E26 LED lamp in the kitchen spotlights that would run for about 30 mins, then shut down. I thought it had died until I left it out for a while and reinstalled it. It worked again then shut down. These lamps from Amazon had some weight to them but they were CRAMMED with soft thermal goo, the entire circuitry was encased in it, it didn't survive my prying!
I have been in the restaurant industry for 30 years and I have seen so many people "nicking" bits and pieces from many of the places I have worked, I never say anything, I feel as if they wanted a momento
interesting. always slightly concerned when you take the snippers out and like that sharp bit and such, them fingers
The big bear with a cink palculator has snaffled a bulb.