Thanks for making this tutorial. It gave the knowledge and chance to get the right tools together to change mine along with the rear shocks on my T1N Sprinter. It's great you took the time to make this video. Thanks again!
Hi Charles. Great video. One note, Do not over tighten the upper shock locking nut because you can over-compress the rubber bushings. They need a little room to flex. Also - From KONI: The Sprinter struts will only have approximately 1 (ONE) full turn. The majority of the adjustable shocks, (about 95% of them) have an adjustment range of 5 half turns. There are a few however that have less due to the bypass valve preload spring that is used. The Sprinter application is in the latter group.. There is also a tutorial on UA-cam from The Sprinter Store that talks about this.
When people report that the strut life is reduced by setting it at full firm what they are actually doing is misunderstanding what is going on. As a shock or strut gets cycled for the first time there is a natural break-in and reduction of damping. If you set it to full firm and then expect it to be that way forever you will naturally be disappointed and confirm with others that the "life" of the strut was reduced. By setting it at a lesser value allows you the ability to make up for the loss of how it initially felt and gain some back after break-in. In the end same strut same performance, different seat-of-the-pants sense of fulfillment. .
Not sure exactly which Sprinter you have but the shocks you used by koni are for the motorhome version and you may find if that's the case, your front suspension will bottom out cuz they are too long. Are you experiencing this?
wow thats crazy... these struts cost about 200$ each on amazon. a.co/cc9dZRx You might want to check the sprinter source forum and see what repair shops are recommended in your area. That's a ridiculous price. sprinter-source.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=125
I just got quoted $1200 from my mechanic - and just for the front struts!! I was aghast when I looked up to see that the Koni shocks were just $200 each, wondering why they were charging this much. So now that I've found this video I might just try to do it myself...
Those shocks may not be the correct ones for a standard 2006 2500 Sprinter van. If you use the exact model he did you may be having a problem because of that. The model used in the video typically are used on motorhome versions
@@mannyswan thanks for the reply, what i found that caused it was a broken leaf spring, it broke right where the bolt goes through, so I didn't see it at first
I don't have a torch wrench! You think it's a good idea to just crank on it, until you think it's as secure as it will get, before busting tool, or breaking threads ?
no i would rent one from autozone or advanced auto parts, etc. They rent out alot of tools and make you buy the wrench but then you can return it and get a full refund
As long as it is tightened well, the torque is not that critical in this application. Make sure that the strut is loaded before you tighten to top not on the shock. Ie, the van should be back on the ground.
Thanks for making this! It made changing my shocks a breeze.
Thanks for making this tutorial. It gave the knowledge and chance to get the right tools together to change mine along with the rear shocks on my T1N Sprinter. It's great you took the time to make this video. Thanks again!
Hi Charles. Great video. One note, Do not over tighten the upper shock locking nut because you can over-compress the rubber bushings. They need a little room to flex. Also - From KONI: The Sprinter struts will only have approximately 1 (ONE) full turn. The majority of the adjustable shocks, (about 95% of them) have an adjustment range of 5 half turns. There are a few however that have less due to the bypass valve preload spring that is used. The Sprinter application is in the latter group.. There is also a tutorial on UA-cam from The Sprinter Store that talks about this.
When people report that the strut life is reduced by setting it at full firm what they are actually doing is misunderstanding what is going on. As a shock or strut gets cycled for the first time there is a natural break-in and reduction of damping. If you set it to full firm and then expect it to be that way forever you will naturally be disappointed and confirm with others that the "life" of the strut was reduced. By setting it at a lesser value allows you the ability to make up for the loss of how it initially felt and gain some back after break-in. In the end same strut same performance, different seat-of-the-pants sense of fulfillment. .
Thank you for the video...Very helpful
Not sure exactly which Sprinter you have but the shocks you used by koni are for the motorhome version and you may find if that's the case, your front suspension will bottom out cuz they are too long. Are you experiencing this?
I've not experienced this
I just got an estimate today from Phoenix area service center for shocks and struts... $1300.00 FYI
wow thats crazy... these struts cost about 200$ each on amazon. a.co/cc9dZRx
You might want to check the sprinter source forum and see what repair shops are recommended in your area. That's a ridiculous price.
sprinter-source.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=125
I just got quoted $1200 from my mechanic - and just for the front struts!! I was aghast when I looked up to see that the Koni shocks were just $200 each, wondering why they were charging this much. So now that I've found this video I might just try to do it myself...
I did all this to my 06 dodge sprinter, and it's a 1 inch higher on one side tjen the other. Any ideas why it's like that now?
Those shocks may not be the correct ones for a standard 2006 2500 Sprinter van. If you use the exact model he did you may be having a problem because of that. The model used in the video typically are used on motorhome versions
@@mannyswan thanks for the reply, what i found that caused it was a broken leaf spring, it broke right where the bolt goes through, so I didn't see it at first
I don't have a torch wrench! You think it's a good idea to just crank on it, until you think it's as secure as it will get, before busting tool, or breaking threads ?
no i would rent one from autozone or advanced auto parts, etc. They rent out alot of tools and make you buy the wrench but then you can return it and get a full refund
Charles Allen good idea. Thanks
As long as it is tightened well, the torque is not that critical in this application. Make sure that the strut is loaded before you tighten to top not on the shock. Ie, the van should be back on the ground.
74 lbsp