As always very informative. Many thanks. I think I know what I'm doing when it comes to DIY repairs but always defer to someone who actually does know what they are doing. Since it's cheap and cheerful to carry out repairs but if things go wrong you will seriously regret it. So I do my homework before rushing in. Thanks again. Mike Oh yes for those watching. familiarise yourself with the ball valve and how to fit it etc upfront. In the kitchen with a cup of tea etc. You do not want to try and figure things out in the loft, especially with loft temperatures in Essex for instance at 30 degrees Centigrade.
A couple of days ago I was in a proper panic when water started leaking in through the bedroom ceiling. Turns out the overflow pipe had a dodgy connection, but the root of the problem was the drippy ball valve. Your video gave me the confidence to do a DIY job for about 6 quid, and the satisfaction of getting it sorted. Believe me, this is scary stuff for the amateur. Keep up the good work Al, a £10 donation is winging its way to you.
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks very much for the clear descriptions. One trip to Grahams later and I had the parts I needed to stop the dripping. Cheers!
Thanks very much for this. I had an overflowing water tank and your video helped me to fix it. I discovered that a low pressure nozzle (large hole) had been used instead of a high pressure nozzle (small hole) like the one that you show. Just to be clear that if a ball valve is fed from the mains, a high pressure nozzle (small hole, about 3mm) should be used, if a ball valve is fed from a header tank, a low pressure nozzle (large hole, about 6mm) should be used. Just to also add that when you buy a ball valve, it will often come with the two types of nozzle. This video shows how it all fits together (and yes, exactly as dereton33 shows, fixing the arm back onto the valve body can be a real test of patience, but persevere!).
Thanks to this wonderfully clear (and very amusing!) video I've just successfully replaced the three worn parts of the valve in my hot water tank. Total cost: £1.75 - and no more dripping overflow. It wasn't a faff even for a not-terribly-confident DIY-er such as myself. You do need a couple of large adjustable spanners or similar. Many thanks for saving me so much dosh!
Oh my - but its cheaper to replace the whole thing with the cheapest plastic unit from screwfix! (sarcasm intended, look at all the other morons who think its cheaper to replace the whole lot).
Hi is there anything like an alarm or something that can be fitted to tell you water is flowing into the header tank Because you usually dont know it is happening until you get up in the loft for some reason or you have a leak on your cental heating and water starts running into the header tank in the loft That can go on for a while if you dont see signs in the house of the leak
Hi there i have fitted a side entry fill valve, there doesnt seem to be sealing washer on the inlet union pipe, is there supposed to be a fibre or rubber washer, it weeps a bit i have put a load of ptfe tape round ot, also when it fills up there is a horrible groaning noise for about 15 seconds.....any advice Please Fred in Essex.
@@dereton33 Ok thanks, i cant turn the flow down without turning the who water supply down, they tell me its afaulty diaphram in valve? the old one didnt do it, it just leaked lol
Not sure if this has been asked, I do a bit of DIY and when changing this why does the water go up the way onto the spout and not the opposite way and just straight into the tank without the spout 🤔
would you belive i changed one of them two monts ago up in the attic had the mains off down stairs some one came in no names lol turned the water on i was soaked up in the attic soaked is a under statment
there seems a complete lack of info anywhere on Google as to how to join the tail of the new ball valve assembly to the connecting tube (which then joins the "mini stopcock"). I have a leak at this junction and guess there should be a rubber O-ring (15.5mm?) or possibly a fibre washer here. Can anyone advise? Currently mains is off as it is leaking here. Thank you.
Thank you, helped me out a lot. Tip for you, try turning nut Anti clockwise, if its awkward to start. Turning it backwards gently you will feel the nut dtop onto the pick up part of thread you are trying to get started. GENTLY. Nothing worse than crossing a thread. Thanks again. Ian.
Hello Big Al I watched your video on repairing a Part 1 and I rather took to heart your comment that one would need to be pretty tight to want to opt to repair one rather than buy new. So I bought a new kit for the toilet cistern , and I got a Part 2 because I have found that the arms on all Part 1s these days are too short. My question to you, which I hope you will be able to answer is this, is it normal for the spout to slow drip for an hour or two after flushing? My toilet used to be a place where I could sit and contemplate, but not anymore. I hear an irritating drip...drip echoing in there. If I pull up the ballcock arm it does shut off the water almost instantly, but left to its own devices it seems that it takes hours. I don’t think this happened with our old Part 1.
Hi John that is a common complaint with part 2 valves especially if water pressure is low, though do check there is no swarf or any small debris jammed on the washer, which can happen when the water is turned back on.
Very useful video, thanks Al. I just changed the innards of a 2 brass ballcock that I installed about three years ago as there was an overflow leak when I got back from hols. To be honest the existing washers looked not too bad and not much lime build up. The problem is that it takes a long time to fill and we're using water all the time so I can't see how I'll know it's working perfectly until I go on hols again. When I pull the lever up manually the valve seems to shut off OK. Is there a way to check whether it's worked in a few minutes? How would a plumber know, if he'd fixed it? Thanks again for the clear presentation.
Yes a plumber would just pull the arm up and see whether it shuts off. If it is the F and E tank overflowing, then you may have a small puncture on the inner coil of the cylinder.
Hi I am having problems with my overflow it needs the ballcock replacing, but I can't get into my loft due to two pipes coming of the copper cylinder to remove these do I need to drain just the copper cylinder or the full system
hi Dereton33, I just changed ball cock valve in the big tank in the loft...but it was a diffrent design to the old ..so old spout would not fit ..so i fitted it without a spout and the new one spout thing is now pointing down is that ok ?
If I want to avoid the repair on a 40 year old tank and ballcock can I just go to scewfix/plumbers merchant and buy a modern ballcock system and fit that? Thanks James
@@dereton33Thanks, Is it best to buy a type 2 and will any type 2 do, there seems to be a lot varying in price. Some are low pressure and some are high pressure? Thanks James
I recently replaced my part 2 ball valve in the header tank and since then there is a significant noise while it's refilling but stops when the valve closes. It's a noise that travels down the pipework into the living areas so is quite noticeable. I have tried adjusting the house pressure at the stopcock but this has not helped. Any advice? The new ball valve was a cheaper one from Screwfix. Thanks
+rozeeboy74 There are lots of ballcocks that are advertised as quiet fill valves, or you fit a cheap ballafix valve on the valve inlet and turn the pressure down using that. Or of course you can get a proper pressure reducing valve with a gauge but they are more expensive.
You cannot adjust pressure by turning a stopcock, only the flow. The pressure just builds up slower. If you really have too much pressure you need to add a pressure regulator. They're not expensive.
Hi mate .Ive had a new overflow pipe fitted which leads from the tank in the attic to the outside of my house .does the pipe need a sealant or siment filler around it on the outside and against the outside brickwork to prevent rain water soaking down and into bricks.the pipe a plastic .
Thanks for the video. Can the brass type of ballcock be used on a toilet? I have a toilet with a side entry inlet valve and one minor complication, it's in Sweden. But I'm not, I'm in UK and flying out there tomorrow to fix it. Long story. Anyway I have a brass ball cock to hand like the one in your video and just wondering what my chances are...?
I have a leak at the join of the valve assembly and the adjoining pipe. Remnant of old washer visible. Is this where the half inch fibre washer goes? Or would a 15.5mm O ring be better?? Thank you for any advice!
As always very informative. Many thanks. I think I know what I'm doing when it comes to DIY repairs but always defer to someone who actually does know what they are doing. Since it's cheap and cheerful to carry out repairs but if things go wrong you will seriously regret it. So I do my homework before rushing in. Thanks again. Mike
Oh yes for those watching. familiarise yourself with the ball valve and how to fit it etc upfront. In the kitchen with a cup of tea etc. You do not want to try and figure things out in the loft, especially with loft temperatures in Essex for instance at 30 degrees Centigrade.
HA ha a bit warm then Mike.
A couple of days ago I was in a proper panic when water started leaking in through the bedroom ceiling. Turns out the overflow pipe had a dodgy connection, but the root of the problem was the drippy ball valve. Your video gave me the confidence to do a DIY job for about 6 quid, and the satisfaction of getting it sorted. Believe me, this is scary stuff for the amateur.
Keep up the good work Al, a £10 donation is winging its way to you.
IJ Bison Thanks very much Ian. the donation was much appreciated. Al.
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks very much for the clear descriptions. One trip to Grahams later and I had the parts I needed to stop the dripping. Cheers!
No problem.
Thanks very much for this. I had an overflowing water tank and your video helped me to fix it. I discovered that a low pressure nozzle (large hole) had been used instead of a high pressure nozzle (small hole) like the one that you show. Just to be clear that if a ball valve is fed from the mains, a high pressure nozzle (small hole, about 3mm) should be used, if a ball valve is fed from a header tank, a low pressure nozzle (large hole, about 6mm) should be used. Just to also add that when you buy a ball valve, it will often come with the two types of nozzle. This video shows how it all fits together (and yes, exactly as dereton33 shows, fixing the arm back onto the valve body can be a real test of patience, but persevere!).
Life saver, saved me today
No problem.
Thanks to this wonderfully clear (and very amusing!) video I've just successfully replaced the three worn parts of the valve in my hot water tank. Total cost: £1.75 - and no more dripping overflow. It wasn't a faff even for a not-terribly-confident DIY-er such as myself. You do need a couple of large adjustable spanners or similar. Many thanks for saving me so much dosh!
No problem Sylvia, pleased you did it ok.
Oh my - but its cheaper to replace the whole thing with the cheapest plastic unit from screwfix! (sarcasm intended, look at all the other morons who think its cheaper to replace the whole lot).
great video, BUT! you forgot to explain what those tea towels were doing by the back door.
Hi is there anything like an alarm or something that can be fitted to tell you water is flowing into the header tank Because you usually dont know it is happening until you get up in the loft for some reason or you have a leak on your cental heating and water starts running into the header tank in the loft That can go on for a while if you dont see signs in the house of the leak
There are leak detectors that could be used. Just dangle the lead over the tank to the level you want it to detect.
Thanks for that I'll google leak detectors
Hi there i have fitted a side entry fill valve, there doesnt seem to be sealing washer on the inlet union pipe, is there supposed to be a fibre or rubber washer, it weeps a bit i have put a load of ptfe tape round ot, also when it fills up there is a horrible groaning noise for about 15 seconds.....any advice Please Fred in Essex.
There should be a fibre washer on the swivel connection. Turn the flow of water down to get rid of the noise.
@@dereton33 Ok thanks, i cant turn the flow down without turning the who water supply down, they tell me its afaulty diaphram in valve? the old one didnt do it, it just leaked lol
@@dereton33PS can you slow the flow down by winding the white plastic bit on the top in?
Well explained. Thanks. So happens ballcock and valve arrived today(ebay) and I will be replacing old one tomorrow. Wish me luck 😣
Good luck!
Thanks very much for the great information.
No problem.
Added a like for the comments about washing and socks 😂 still, an informative video, cheers mate.
Glad you enjoyed it
Not sure if this has been asked, I do a bit of DIY and when changing this why does the water go up the way onto the spout and not the opposite way and just straight into the tank without the spout 🤔
To stop water siphonage. Was bought in some while back by water regulations
Old part one valves do that and fill from the bottom
There's part one part two and part 3 one fill from bottom part 2 fill from top and anti syponage part 3 are plastic
thanks for the usefull information.
You're welcome
Thinking ahead I can envisage problems undoing old valve as house is 50 years old. Any suggestions?
Just have confidence and use good quality tools.
would you belive i changed one of them two monts ago up in the attic had the mains off down stairs some one came in no names lol turned the water on i was soaked up in the attic soaked is a under statment
Ha ha never mind.
Great information good stuff.
Thanks James
there seems a complete lack of info anywhere on Google as to how to join the tail of the new ball valve assembly to the connecting tube (which then joins the "mini stopcock"). I have a leak at this junction and guess there should be a rubber O-ring (15.5mm?) or possibly a fibre washer here. Can anyone advise? Currently mains is off as it is leaking here. Thank you.
I will have to sort that for you with a video. Anyway you are correct it is a fibre washer.
Thank you, helped me out a lot.
Tip for you, try turning nut Anti clockwise, if its awkward to start. Turning it backwards gently you will feel the nut dtop onto the pick up part of thread you are trying to get started. GENTLY.
Nothing worse than crossing a thread.
Thanks again. Ian.
Good advice Ian.
One day you might need to fix one of these and there might not be Screwifx down the road. Thanks for the practical and informative walk though.
No problem.
thanks you make it so simple
hannah o neill No problem Hannah. Al.
Hello Big Al
I watched your video on repairing a Part 1 and I rather took to heart your comment that one would need to be pretty tight to want to opt to repair one rather than buy new. So I bought a new kit for the toilet cistern , and I got a Part 2 because I have found that the arms on all Part 1s these days are too short.
My question to you, which I hope you will be able to answer is this, is it normal for the spout to slow drip for an hour or two after flushing? My toilet used to be a place where I could sit and contemplate, but not anymore. I hear an irritating drip...drip echoing in there. If I pull up the ballcock arm it does shut off the water almost instantly, but left to its own devices it seems that it takes hours. I don’t think this happened with our old Part 1.
Hi John that is a common complaint with part 2 valves especially if water pressure is low, though do check there is no swarf or any small debris jammed on the washer, which can happen when the water is turned back on.
+dereton33 Thank you so much for your kind reply. I will certainly check as you recommend. Much appreciated!
Relpaced washer on ball valve after few days gyser not filling to well wat do I do
Change the whole valve.
@@dereton33 Hi der da valve is a new 1
Just fitted a new washer on
Very useful video, thanks Al. I just changed the innards of a 2 brass ballcock that I installed about three years ago as there was an overflow leak when I got back from hols. To be honest the existing washers looked not too bad and not much lime build up. The problem is that it takes a long time to fill and we're using water all the time so I can't see how I'll know it's working perfectly until I go on hols again. When I pull the lever up manually the valve seems to shut off OK. Is there a way to check whether it's worked in a few minutes? How would a plumber know, if he'd fixed it? Thanks again for the clear presentation.
Yes a plumber would just pull the arm up and see whether it shuts off. If it is the F and E tank overflowing, then you may have a small puncture on the inner coil of the cylinder.
Hi I am having problems with my overflow it needs the ballcock replacing, but I can't get into my loft due to two pipes coming of the copper cylinder to remove these do I need to drain just the copper cylinder or the full system
Depends if they are the vent pipe from the cylinder or the vent or cold feed from the flow and return off the cylinder.
Is this will fix my overflow water?time to time I can see a lot water coming from the roof.
Thanks
Yes it will.
dereton33 thanks
hi Dereton33, I just changed ball cock valve in the big tank in the loft...but it was a diffrent design to the old ..so old spout would not fit ..so i fitted it without a spout and the new one spout thing is now pointing down is that ok ?
Thats ok.
If I want to avoid the repair on a 40 year old tank and ballcock can I just go to scewfix/plumbers merchant and buy a modern ballcock system and fit that?
Thanks
James
Yes there are lots of different ones.
@@dereton33Thanks, Is it best to buy a type 2 and will any type 2 do, there seems to be a lot varying in price. Some are low pressure and some are high pressure?
Thanks
James
I recently replaced my part 2 ball valve in the header tank and since then there is a significant noise while it's refilling but stops when the valve closes. It's a noise that travels down the pipework into the living areas so is quite noticeable. I have tried adjusting the house pressure at the stopcock but this has not helped. Any advice? The new ball valve was a cheaper one from Screwfix. Thanks
+rozeeboy74 There are lots of ballcocks that are advertised as quiet fill valves, or you fit a cheap ballafix valve on the valve inlet and turn the pressure down using that. Or of course you can get a proper pressure reducing valve with a gauge but they are more expensive.
You cannot adjust pressure by turning a stopcock, only the flow. The pressure just builds up slower. If you really have too much pressure you need to add a pressure regulator. They're not expensive.
excellent video ....I did it with no skills.....
+rufusbrookerdarkshadow . That`s great, means I must be getting the videos about right.
+dereton33 yes gr8 why I subbbed
Sorry about the message finger slip lol
Thanks Gavin
Thanks
Hi mate .Ive had a new overflow pipe fitted which leads from the tank in the attic to the outside of my house .does the pipe need a sealant or siment filler around it on the outside and against the outside brickwork to prevent rain water soaking down and into bricks.the pipe a plastic .
+Roger Taylor yes it does.
Cheers mate.
Thanks for the video. Can the brass type of ballcock be used on a toilet? I have a toilet with a side entry inlet valve and one minor complication, it's in Sweden. But I'm not, I'm in UK and flying out there tomorrow to fix it. Long story. Anyway I have a brass ball cock to hand like the one in your video and just wondering what my chances are...?
MrCurry No problem they can be used on a toilet cistern. Al.
What an absolute faff, easier, quicker, cheaper to replace the whole valve, remembering to change the half inch fibre washer
That's a terrible attitude.
You can often do this without removing it from the tank - which is less work than replacing the whole thing.
The sort of attitude that means our landfills are full to overflowing Theres a lot of satisfaction in repairing things yourself, you should try it
I have a leak at the join of the valve assembly and the adjoining pipe. Remnant of old washer visible. Is this where the half inch fibre washer goes? Or would a 15.5mm O ring be better?? Thank you for any advice!
just replace it. £7 at screwfix for a new one
Wasteful, you should be ashamed. The washers are consumable items.
just back from wicks 1/2 inch ballcock £5-99.
The video its to dark
Just turn the brightness up.