CNC Router Vacuum Table - Part 3 - Zoned Spoil Board
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Now that the vacuum table is cut and sealed, along with the vacuums being installed and plumbed in, it's time to install the spoil board. I am using 1 1/2" MDF that is cut in pieces, with the edges sealed, to help keep the vacuum in its own zone.
I know that this video isn't really exciting, but this really does play an important roll in the use of the machine. Without this spoil board, regardless of how thick it is, it protects the vacuum table from cut through damage.
I personally prefer the thicker spoil board, solely because I will have to replace it less often.
Depending on how messed up it gets, I can easily resurface this thing up to 10 times before having to replace the pieces.
When the surface is completely flat it also holds your material a little bit better, then when you have cuts in it.
I am now excited to start fitting out the shop with items that I can make on the CNC.
There will also be some other projects thrown in there from time to time, but they will all center around the CNC being used as the primary tool.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. The system works great. I followed your direction fully for making the vacuum system, except mine is four zone and I added a Fuji PV8 vacuum relief valve. I used 3/4" solid surface for the vacuum table. I made the spoil board out of 1" MDF.
Yous Sir made this build look so symple. Never the less having the right tools to do the job helped. Last but not least I am confident the planning you had done was spot on double, triple, and the checked again before you started. Great series loved it from the beggining (garage build) to to the interior setup. avb
Great series, thank you for your explanations. You demonstrated using a thick spoil board. Have you considered a much thinner board, 1/8"? We use a full 4'x8' MDF 1/8' and allow the bits to take a small amount with each job run. (Clean cut for each piece) After numerous jobs we simply replace the 1/8" board. (I can't think of how many jobs, but we are a commercial shop and use the machine extensively) It's easy since we don't fasten that piece down and let the vacuum take care of it for us. We then use that scared 1/8" board as a floor covering for our finishing area. Thought it might help.
good work mate. In my opinion, that waist board shouldn´t be so thick. Half of that thickness would be right. Another important pois is : using a gasket between g first grid surface in all the perimeter by zones.
Nice! I want to use two of my Festool vacuums for my 4x4 X Carve Pro
good job. Is it possible to know the technical data of the engines?
Air flow, electrical power...?
I just came across this video and it’s been very helpful, as I have struggled for a while now getting a proper spoil board setup. Can you tell me what you used to seal the edges of the boards?
Did you screw the mdf directly into plenum table? I'm considering doing this because I don't want to run my vacuum pump at night time or sometimes Also some jobs don't require vacuum. I cut small letters and they go flying into the vacuum.
Yes, I did screw it directly. I countersunk all of the screws for when I have to resurface it.
can you describe on how you are holding the MDF to the phenolic table? Are you predrilling your phenolic table? What king of screw can you recommend to use, i.e. fine thread vs coarse, specific type screws or brand? Thank you!
Paul,
thanks so much for taking the time to make these 3 videos. I am about to purchase a Stinger 3. I understand you worked with a Stinger 3 with the Hurricane system before. Do you notice any difference in the function between your system and the Hurricane set up? Pros vs cons?
What would you estimate the total cost for your Vacuum table set up?
I believe your system will save money up front and each time a vacuum motor goes up. I am a hobbyist, I have never used the vacuum table in the applications I use a CNC.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Clint
Clinton, Thanks for watching. To answer your questions, I paid about $150 per vac on ebay and truthfully since I made the whole thing, I have only used two vacs. I think four may have been a bit of overkill. But if you make it yourself, you can make it as I did, but just cap some of the vac ports incase you want to add more later. I think by segmenting the spoil board the way that I did and sealing the edges, it greatly improved the hold. I think all in all, I spent about $800 for everything. I hope this helps.
The Hurricane Vac certainly was beneficial.... I realized how simple of a system it really was. While mine is not all self contained, I'm happy with the results.
@@x3cnc479 Paul, when I looked up the Xpower B24, the specs showed a 150 cfm rating. I will have a small shop with a Grizzly G0671dust collector (got a good deal). Could you use a similar manifold system but use the Dust collector to provide the vacuum? Do you think the G0671 would be enough to use as a chip collector off the main spindle shroud and also the vacuum table? I believe the G0671 is a 4HP motor rated at 3552 CFM with a static pressure of 13.5 at 0 CFM.
thoughts?
How is there ANYvacuum to hold down the top sheet if the sheet directly below thw sheet to be cut is SOLID with no access to any of the vacuum what am I missing here ???
Well, I asked the same question years ago.... Please allow me to explain. I am using MDF as a spoil board.... MDF when purchased will have a "skin" on the top and bottom of the sheet. This skin is made during the manufacturing process to give you a nice surface to finish. But, if you remove that skin on both top and bottom, the core of the material will allow air to pass through. While it seems like a solid, it actually isn't. It is like a sponge with tiny holes and gaps between fibers. So it is key that you remove this skin and it also helps if you seal the sides (thin sides) to stop your vacuum from escaping through these side while trying to hold down a piece of material. I hope this helps.
@@x3cnc479 You should make a video dedicated to this concept. I was lost and your video helped me understand even in the world of Google. It was in fact too much information everywhere that was making it hard for me to find this answer. I was trying to find a spoil board that was slot and cut to allow air to pass through. Watching your video, I realize I don't need to do that.
Why did you cut the spoil board into segments, rather than using a sheet the size of the sub spoilboard?
Thanks for the question.
I cut it all up so I could seal the edges. By sealing the edges, it helps reduce vacuum loss in that particular zone. So I can focus the vacuum into a particular area if I am working with smaller materials. If it was all one board, the pull from the vacuum would not only be from top to bottom, but it would pull sideways from anywhere along the board. So I am trying to reduce that loss.
And, secondly... I will be able to replace single areas if I ever (or when I) miscalculate the depth of the cutter and take out a huge chunk of the board.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Does your work piece have to cover the whole vacuum spot or can you put a piece that is smaller on there and it would work too?
curious if that thing has lasted with those vac pumps. looks like an awesome table i just dont see those vacs holding up
My first CNC had a Hurricane Vac system on it. Several of those motors had gone bad over the years, and they were basically the exact same motors. They were 240v and these are 120v...
I've had no problems with them so far.
@@x3cnc479 thats amazing. ive been looking at the hurricane but they want $3k for that thing! where can i get motors like the ones youre using?
You can find them on both eBay or Amazon. Just make sure that you price shop... they can vary greatly from seller to seller.
Nice video ! what type and brand are the vac pumps ?
How big does the vacuum pump needed?
How are those vacuums holding up?
I see you have a rotary axis off the side of your table
what post processor did you use
Well, it's a CAMaster cnc, so I use the Recoil X-3 X to A Inch. But in the job setup, I choose the Y Axis for the Orientation. I also do most of my toolpathing in Aspire. But Vectric should have drivers for most machines. Thanks for watching.
What are the size of the motors?
I am expecting my machine in 4 weeks - this video has been super , super helpful. Did you put inserts to hold the screws on the spoiler? Also, I read on the CAMheads that big box MDF might not work, need to buy commercially. Did you use big-box MDF, and I hope so as it is easy to get then commercial grade. thanks
Hey Greg, exciting time for you. I hope time flys by for you. To answer your question, when I first started I used MDF from the big box stores, I only stepped up to the 1 1/2" boards because I tend to resurface more often then most probably do. It's just easier for me. Again, I used it and had no issues. You should be fine. Good luck!
@@x3cnc479 when you show screwing in the SB to the vacuum board, you use screws, did you use inserts. I like the 1 1/2 in as that makes sense to me also. I loved how you tested it, so I am following your lead.
Greg, sorry about that... I answered your question in my head, it just didn't make it into the reply.
The answer is, no. I did not use inserts, I just used deck screws. I have them countersunk down where they are clear of any potential mistakes that I may make. Hope that helps you out.
@@x3cnc479 Thank you very much - I really like what you did. I will be making this SB this weekend, getting ready for my machine. Thanks again for taking the time. Very kind of you.
No problem. If you have any questions, I will try to keep an eye out for them.
Don't quite understand the point if that system is only able to hold the spoilbostd, but not the actual part 🤷🏻♂️
MDF is porous if you remove the skin from either side. This allows air to pass through it. It's really not a solid with its finished skin removed. So the vacuum passes through, holding your material down to the spoil board. Hope that helps explain it.
Never would have thought that MDF would allow air to pass though it.
Could you put a 2’x3’ piece on the bed and still have it held in place to cut?
Thanks for the comment.
Yes, MDF has that hard skin on either side but once removed it becomes like a sponge, allowing air to pass right through.
You bring up a good point about smaller material sizes.
I should have displayed that as well, but to answer your question, yes, it will hold smaller sized materials.
It doesn't have to cover the entire zone.
I will try to put something together to further explain this spoil board.
Thanks for watching.
How do you align your wood board perfectly?
Sorry, I don't understand what you are trying to ask.
@@x3cnc479 How do you check your board is perfectly on the table
Why did you not just glue the spoilboard down
I prefer to screw it down because if I need to replace it, which I use to do about every two to three months, it just makes it easier. I dont want to have to surface it all the way down and then replace it. I just think its quicker. I've seen a lot of people on UA-cam do that and I didn't really understand why. Its not great for servicing it if needed. But, to each their own, right... lol Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Have a great day!
@@x3cnc479 what do you guys make that you run that machine that much
et au final ça marche pas...
Cela fonctionne très bien. J'ai quatre moteurs d'aspirateur et n'ai vraiment besoin d'en utiliser que deux.
Which machine do you have
CAMaster Stinger III with the X3 head and rotary attachment.