@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 very much so, never thought about a pencil sharpener, will be giving that a go on my next retip. As anyone ever thought of a tapered ferrule so you could fit a larger tip without having to trumpet shape if again you didn’t want to change cue? or would this create balance issues?
Good video mate, I do it very similar, just use a Stanley blade on its own and angle the blade and turn the cue to trim into the trumpet shape and use a small nail file to finish around the edges and still burnish the edge with a strip of worn down wet & dry
If you really struggle to get the tip central, tape 4 matches sticking up from the ferrule to guide the tip into place when sticking. As long as they aren't really tight on the sides it won't matter that the tip is slightly larger than the ferrule diameter. As an example, a 10mm Elkmaster tip generally seems to be around 10.4mm so would overlap a 10mm ferrule.
Hi Lim No. The best way to explsin a mushroom is to imagine just putting an 11mm tip out of the box and just placing it on a ferrule. The tip is the same shape but on a smaller width ferrule than the tip width.
Absolute pain in the hole to do these tips, done one on my own cue fine, then doing one for someone else I kept going too far and there was a very sharp edge between the dome and the sides of the tip.
Agreed and that sharp edge can chip off in time. I generally curve (with my fingers), a small piece of 1200 grit sandpaper, place it against the side of the tip and slowly roll the cue with your hand (other hand) whilst the cue us laid across your thighs (whilst sitting down).
Hi I`ve watched this video a few times now, simply because I enjoy the whole process. It did occur to me however........ would it have been easier to mushroom cut the tip before gluing it on to the shaft? Just a thought. Thank you. p.s. Keep the videos coming.👍
I guess we all have our ways. I prefer to just the whole tip and shape from there as sometimes when positioning it you might get a smidge if glue on the surface. By the time I've shaped it that would be gone. Each to their own I guess.
Is there any real reason to implant chalk into a tip during the manufacturing? As far as I can tell it makes your fingers dirty and gives your glue to potential to not stick. Everyone chalks after anyway!
Hi The answer I was given is that the impregnated chalk helps toward giving a foundation of grip and also looks better cosmetically. Whether we all agree with that I guess is a personal opinion. The impregnated chalk doesn't usually go that deep (generally) so as long as you sand the base you shouldn't get any issues with the tip sticking. Given the choice I would just have them without it as it can be messy as you say when fitting and sanding. So, I'm with you on that one!
Hi Alan I guess you'd have to ask each player individually what their reasons are. Most I would think have gotten used to their cue but want a larger tip or over the years have reduced their ferrule size through sanding when changing tips. Barry Hawkins uses a crown/trumpet tip shape, it would be interestihg to know his thoughts.😀
I can tell you why I do it. I have always played snooker with a ferrule size of between 7.5-8.7mm I have a very accurate and smooth cue action and cue straight so have been able to get away with it. One of the biggest downsides to using a smaller tip in snooker is long potting. It is far easier to place unwanted side on the white with a small tip compared to a larger tip. The reason I use a trumpet or crown shape tip (last 2years or so) is because I seen one of this gentleman's videos on this particular design and though ide give it a go. I wanted more tip on the white to try and eliminate unwanted side. The difference was instant. My long potting game is night and day. I've always been strong with long potting but this eliminated most unwanted side and my long game was improved further. Long potting is really important in snooker. If your opponent doesn't get that white on the baulk cushion a good long potter can create chances from anywhere. It's just another part of the game to improve on which will make one a more complete player and therefore harder to beat. Now to your question about why not just get a 9.5+mm cue!? Reason being is some players much prefer a thinner shaft that stays quite thin around 7-12inches back from the ferrule towards the butt. It's a personal thing. A "feel" thing. If I pick up a 9.5mm cue it literally feels like a broom handle. Another advantage for me is I prefer a cue that has more flex or "whip" to it. A cue with a thinner shaft toward the end will be far more whippy. There is big debate wether this generates more spin/control on the white but in my situation and experience over the years it absolutely does. I am in the process of changing from a 7.5mm to a 8.7mm. Going from 3/4 to a beautiful Custom cues one piece that was made to my exact spec. I will still stick with the trumpet shape tip because I also like to see the edge of the tip whilst I'm cueing. I find I can more accurately see how much bottom/top or how much side spin I am putting on the cue ball. This is obviously all personal preference bit I will say one thing. If you've played 25+ years with a certain style it is extremely hard to change and adapt to something "new". The new cue arrives instead next few weeks and although it has been made to perfect specification there is no guarantee that it will "feel right" in my hands or "look right" whilst I'm cueing. I'm hoping it's pretty close as I thing I can make an adjustment if it's there or there abouts but one things for sure, being a 8.7mm ferrule I can guarantee you that I will be using a minimum 10 or maybe even a 11mm tip on the new cue. It only takes me about 10mins to remove an old tip and fit a trumpet tip, I've been doing it so long it's second nature now. The most important thing is to use a sharp scalpel, once it start doing dull just use a new one. The blade will "grab" less with a new blade and your tip will thank you afterwards and u will do a much cleaner job. Anyone reading this who has a small ferrule I would highly recommend trying this method. If your a decent player I can guarantee that it will improve your long game. Enjoy🎱
Muito obrigado pelo ótimo tutorial 😊
Great video and well explained 👍
Just come across your videos, great insight and good tips..no pun intended
Thank you, glad you found it helpful.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 very much so, never thought about a pencil sharpener, will be giving that a go on my next retip. As anyone ever thought of a tapered ferrule so you could fit a larger tip without having to trumpet shape if again you didn’t want to change cue? or would this create balance issues?
Very enjoyable to watch, thanks.
Thanks Robert
Many thanks for putting this up. I was waiting for it.. cheers
Hi
No problem. Sorry it took so long!
@@marclockley3229 doesn't matter. It was worth the wait :) My current tip still would last a few weeks so in that sense this was just in time :)
Interesting watch!
looks like a really nice job
Thank you.
Good video mate, I do it very similar, just use a Stanley blade on its own and angle the blade and turn the cue to trim into the trumpet shape and use a small nail file to finish around the edges and still burnish the edge with a strip of worn down wet & dry
Hi Dave
How's tricks?
Probably a few ways to cut the tip, hopefully the video will help the guys have a go.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 not bad mate, deffo a few ways but your videos will crtainly be helping a lot of people, keep them coming 😀
@@davidwalton5829 Thanks mate, we aim to please..................as they say!
What is your recommendation to paste exactly in center the tip 9.5 or 10 on the 9.4 ferrule?
Tanx
Hi
Always go above the ferrule size with the tip and cut the sides of the tip to size.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 But the top would not be uniform if I pasted the tip not in the middle
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היסטוריה
נשמר
קהילה
I move it until it is close then shape the sides and top to suit.
If you really struggle to get the tip central, tape 4 matches sticking up from the ferrule to guide the tip into place when sticking.
As long as they aren't really tight on the sides it won't matter that the tip is slightly larger than the ferrule diameter.
As an example, a 10mm Elkmaster tip generally seems to be around 10.4mm so would overlap a 10mm ferrule.
Is this the same as mushroom?
Hi Lim
No. The best way to explsin a mushroom is to imagine just putting an 11mm tip out of the box and just placing it on a ferrule.
The tip is the same shape but on a smaller width ferrule than the tip width.
Absolute pain in the hole to do these tips, done one on my own cue fine, then doing one for someone else I kept going too far and there was a very sharp edge between the dome and the sides of the tip.
Agreed and that sharp edge can chip off in time. I generally curve (with my fingers), a small piece of 1200 grit sandpaper, place it against the side of the tip and slowly roll the cue with your hand (other hand) whilst the cue us laid across your thighs (whilst sitting down).
Hi I`ve watched this video a few times now, simply because I enjoy the whole process. It did occur to me however........ would it have been easier to mushroom cut the tip before gluing it on to the shaft? Just a thought. Thank you. p.s. Keep the videos coming.👍
I guess we all have our ways. I prefer to just the whole tip and shape from there as sometimes when positioning it you might get a smidge if glue on the surface. By the time I've shaped it that would be gone. Each to their own I guess.
Is there any real reason to implant chalk into a tip during the manufacturing? As far as I can tell it makes your fingers dirty and gives your glue to potential to not stick. Everyone chalks after anyway!
Hi
The answer I was given is that the impregnated chalk helps toward giving a foundation of grip and also looks better cosmetically.
Whether we all agree with that I guess is a personal opinion.
The impregnated chalk doesn't usually go that deep (generally) so as long as you sand the base you shouldn't get any issues with the tip sticking.
Given the choice I would just have them without it as it can be messy as you say when fitting and sanding.
So, I'm with you on that one!
numero uno on the comment
Apologies for the video quality. I tried something different this time and the quality could have been better, I'll change it on the next one!
Why do this instead of getting a proper shaft with desired tip size ?
Hi Alan
I guess you'd have to ask each player individually what their reasons are.
Most I would think have gotten used to their cue but want a larger tip or over the years have reduced their ferrule size through sanding when changing tips.
Barry Hawkins uses a crown/trumpet tip shape, it would be interestihg to know his thoughts.😀
Hi Alan
Some people like the cue they have but want to try a larger tip size. Barry Hawkins uses this method.
I can tell you why I do it. I have always played snooker with a ferrule size of between 7.5-8.7mm I have a very accurate and smooth cue action and cue straight so have been able to get away with it.
One of the biggest downsides to using a smaller tip in snooker is long potting. It is far easier to place unwanted side on the white with a small tip compared to a larger tip.
The reason I use a trumpet or crown shape tip (last 2years or so) is because I seen one of this gentleman's videos on this particular design and though ide give it a go.
I wanted more tip on the white to try and eliminate unwanted side. The difference was instant. My long potting game is night and day. I've always been strong with long potting but this eliminated most unwanted side and my long game was improved further. Long potting is really important in snooker. If your opponent doesn't get that white on the baulk cushion a good long potter can create chances from anywhere. It's just another part of the game to improve on which will make one a more complete player and therefore harder to beat.
Now to your question about why not just get a 9.5+mm cue!?
Reason being is some players much prefer a thinner shaft that stays quite thin around 7-12inches back from the ferrule towards the butt. It's a personal thing. A "feel" thing. If I pick up a 9.5mm cue it literally feels like a broom handle.
Another advantage for me is I prefer a cue that has more flex or "whip" to it. A cue with a thinner shaft toward the end will be far more whippy. There is big debate wether this generates more spin/control on the white but in my situation and experience over the years it absolutely does.
I am in the process of changing from a 7.5mm to a 8.7mm. Going from 3/4 to a beautiful Custom cues one piece that was made to my exact spec. I will still stick with the trumpet shape tip because I also like to see the edge of the tip whilst I'm cueing. I find I can more accurately see how much bottom/top or how much side spin I am putting on the cue ball.
This is obviously all personal preference bit I will say one thing. If you've played 25+ years with a certain style it is extremely hard to change and adapt to something "new".
The new cue arrives instead next few weeks and although it has been made to perfect specification there is no guarantee that it will "feel right" in my hands or "look right" whilst I'm cueing. I'm hoping it's pretty close as I thing I can make an adjustment if it's there or there abouts but one things for sure, being a 8.7mm ferrule I can guarantee you that I will be using a minimum 10 or maybe even a 11mm tip on the new cue. It only takes me about 10mins to remove an old tip and fit a trumpet tip, I've been doing it so long it's second nature now. The most important thing is to use a sharp scalpel, once it start doing dull just use a new one. The blade will "grab" less with a new blade and your tip will thank you afterwards and u will do a much cleaner job.
Anyone reading this who has a small ferrule I would highly recommend trying this method. If your a decent player I can guarantee that it will improve your long game.
Enjoy🎱
Whereabouts your based?
Science
I mean trim