Thank you for this video. I followed exactly and I’ve impressed myself how perfect it is. The scalpel with rotating cue is so much better than chopping down on the tip.
Thank you, you offer by far the most comprehensive videos on retipping! My first retip went just about perfect! Looks like straight out of the factory again. Just the sandpaper on the ferrule hurt my soul. Even the 2000 grit felt like it was grinding off a good chunk of the ferrule so i stopped and taped off the ferrule. Afterwards i used some polishing paste to shiny up the ferrule again. Doing so i taped of the wood and tried to be careful not getting anywhere close the the wood, as my polishing paste contains tiny amounts of sodium laureth sulfate (soap) which could remove the oil from the wood.
Taping the ferrule is the best way. If you find you are still touching it through the tape (masking tape), use electrical tape. If you find any if the tape too sticky and taking off oil under the ferrule then use a 'Low tack' decorator's tape. On the ferrule, you can use the least aggressive sandpaper to do the job and work backwards; 2000, 3000 are really a polishing grade so should be fine on brass. When you get good you should be able to remove the side walls if the tip with a scalpal, shape the top if the tip without touching the ferrule as it protected and shine the brass with polishing grade papers rather than repair it; it's all practice. Lots of long term tip fitters don't need any protection as they've been doing it for decades. Good luck. Marc
Key is to protect the wood at all times all in all a very good tutorial also does different adhesives such as gel and superglue effect feel on ball striking
Hi Robert Thanks for the comments As regards gel vs liquid for feel on cue ball striking I've never noticed the difference and have used both to death. I hear people saying liquid dries brittle and gel dries with a cushion effect or the gel covers all gaps so less pinging on ball strike but you could argue the liquid finds all gaps. For me there is no noticable difference and I've tried it on pressed vs laminated and soft vs hard; as I said, others may disagree and had different results; be happy to hear them.
How about elkmaster? I just did my very first elk tip and it's frayed badly when sanding it to shape. Any tips please to save the tip? Or get rid of the fluff?
Today my Century Cue Tips "Hard" have come. I will change tomorrow. Had Blue Diamond on it before, was too soft for me, has deformed extremely. Hope to get along better with them
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 The day before yesterday the G4 tested the I'm 4 hours training match. I get along very well, just bumps and impacts very well.
Very nice tip & helpful vid, I'm going to practice your spinning method with the scalpel on some elks on an old half cue I've got before I do my playing cue. I use the G3's as well.
Hi Robert Thank you. I've used a few methods over the years but I like the spinning the cue method as if you always try and find the sharp part of the blade (which changes as it blunts) you should be able to take a small amount off at a time (like sharpening a pencil). If you try and take too large a piece off then the blade will just dig in to the tip and you would feel like you are going to cut a chunk off.
@@robertconnell5302 Not a million miles from me then Robert, I'm sure there was a coach that way that I spoke to once, Tom Wright? Seemed like a nice guy.
@@marclockley3229 I've only been playing the league about 8 years Marc, so could be before that as I don't know him. It's a good league with a few tasty players in it I can tell you, century breakers. If I can put any your way for snooker stuff I will.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Thanks mate, not a glue i see for sale here a lot but i can order a few from ebay. I'm used to Bison and loctite but as i had tips come off lately i want to try that gorilla.
Hi Marc random question here , the cue I have has the same joint as Robert Osborne cues , it’s Called a large spiralock , similar to the maximus ones but maximus are thinner, do you have any idea where I could get a 9 or 11” medium extended mini butt from , I tried emailing you but had no response Thanks Much appreciated
Hi Not sure where the email went as everyone gets an answer so possibly spam. I did have some a while back but unfortunately ran out. Maybe try Stu Green at Green Baize, very helpful.
That was an excellent job on that tip. Looks pretty much perfect to me. Are those tips available in soft medium hard? Always used elkmaster but they can be very inconsistant. Sometimes takes 1 or 2 tips to find a good one
Hi, on the CC website installation guide, it states not to sandpaper the top of the tip, only to use a file? (and they promote their CC cue tip file) i don't see any problems but just something i thought i should ask, also, CC recommend using burnishing wax (also a CC burnishing wax) on sides of tip, is this necessary as you didn't include in video? thanks so much, have got g3's coming in mail, many thanks
Hiya Obviously we all have our preferred method to fit a tip. The method I show is a more basic method to help people get going without it being too complicated. Personally I generally fit tips holding a long sharp bare blade which I've been doing for years, most people would shred their hands which is why I don't promote it. I burnish the old way which is the shiny side of bare leather and the roll the cue up and down my thigh whist sitting, many long term tip fitters do the same. You can use wax but no real need as the side walls will go hard without it. Obviously Century supply a file which is one grade of coarseness but different players require different effects on the top surface of the tip hence using the appropriate paper. Some advise not to use paper as it may leave some of the sand in the tip surface, if you're not confident, just check the surface.😀
Hi Simon The scalpal holder is a no.3 and the blades are a 10a, I usually use Swan Morton. The glue I prefer is the liquid loctite but a loctite gel might be easier if you want a little more time before the glue goes off.
Just taken a quick nose at your website Marc, I've only just bought a new (mid/high end) cue and the tip that came on it was super hard! Way too hard for my liking so I removed it for the favoured elkmaster tip. This one too was too hard, quite surprising as I usually prefer a harder tip. It seems that with this new cue a softer tip that will take a little of the initial clunk off the shot will suit the cue and player (myself) better. Now here's where I got a little confused, I always thaught blue diamond was a softer tip than the elkmaster, it sais on your site that it is not the case!?? Do you sell anything that might suit my needs...as I said above this cue seems to want a softer tip for it to give me the "feel" I'm after...do you have anything you could recommend mate? Thankyou. Mark.
Being open, tips are somewhat of a lottery at the moment as regards hardness. Blue Diamonds have always been soft and softer than Elks (in my opinion) but the last batch if 25 boxes are like bullets. It's like they've decided to soak them in a resin (like most other manufacturers) and haven't got it right. Their Elk Pro tips aren't too bad but certainly not cheap. The Century G1s are also a reasonable bet for softness but again very hit and miss at the moment. It seems the industry is struggling a little to meet each grade for some reason with any consistent accuracy.
@@marclockley3229 isn't that the other way round...a dome will be better for side play... but a flat tip by its very nature will offer a better bite due to the larger surface of contact... dunno hence a bit confused...
Hi Matti To be honest, there are so many types of dents e.g dull, sharp, surface, deep holes, cuts etc etc. It also depends what the dent is in (Shaft/butt) as to how you approach it. At some point when I get time I'll do a video on a few to help but really busy making leather cue cases at the minute.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scalpel-Handle-No-3-BP-Handle-Fully-Autoclavable-Blade-Holder-Stainless-Steel-CE-/223515170323?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Is this basically the same thing?
@@amaaniqbal6907 Hi. Yes this is a No.3 handle so that is fine. I normally use a Swan Morton 10A blade which fits straight on there, I get them from Ebay Uk.
Hi how can i make my cue shaft look darker l did 2coots with jhon parris linseed oil to my cue but still not that dark can you make a video to show us how you will do it thanks
Damned!! 2 out of 2nd boxes of CC- G3 couldn't retain it's shape! 1 lopsided so much to 1 side of the tip and is wobbly/mushy that I have to peel it off my cue just with my fingers... My bad luck for the 2nd box or so much for quality!!
Wow, I've never had a problem with more than 1 in a box, you must be very unlucky. If it's definately the tips and you want to try a similar alternative then try a Taylor Made Medium or Hard (not sure how hard a tip you like). If the tip is wobbly because the base of the tip or the ferrule isn't perfectly flat then this can cause the tip to peel off. Email me on Snooker Crazy website if this is the case.
@@marclockley3229Definitely a perfect ferrule as can possibly be, it peels off leaving 1/3 of the tip thickness still glued to ferrule. Is there a link to Taylor?
@@bsftree Each tip is normally in a range if tested for hardness so it depends where on the range you like it. There are only 3 in the TM range so it will fall in the med and hard but past that it is personal.
Hi Regretfully, I would probably have to say no as it is a bit of a job to explain without showing and it is really easy to make matters worse and I wouldn't want that to happen. I generally do some by hand but it's better to use steam in my opinion so you get into the real fibres of the wood as many just go back after a while as the wood wants to bend wherever the tension pushes it to. I was told once that in the old days every cue that left Peradon was steamed whether straight or not to set the wood so it was perfectly straight prior to use. They believed that if the steam got into the wood first that they could ensure it stayed straight; apparently at their height, over 3000 cues left the factory each week so a lot of cues to steam!
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 so steaming will help the cue get straight.... Should we apply any external pressure because I'm scared of cracking my shaft or the wood fibres become loose?
@@naganathaniyer3300 Yes, I always apply some pressure depending on the severity of the warp. If you aren't experienced in making them straight I would avoid doing it as it can easily ruin the cue and it's difficult to explain straightening without showing.
Hi, I just put on a centrury G3 tip yesterday. I played today, generally it felt good on shots I played firm with centre ball striking. However gentle shots with top for instance,It felt very tinny and vibrates quite a bit. Could this be just the shaping of the tip, which I did rush a bit to be honest?
Very difficult to say as I'd have to have a go with the cue, could be a few things. For me, if it feels what I call tinny then the base of the tip might not he a perfect fit on the ferrule or nit enough glue across the surface so air underneath; again, a little difficult to say.
@@porky7979 If you do take it off, hold a ruler or something flat across the ferrule and hold it up to the light to make sure you yave a perfectly flat surface to fit the tip to. The light (e.g. the sky) will show any deviances.
@@marclockley3229 oh dear. I loved how you put that tip on but just looked it up and you are 3 hours 44 mins away from me 😂😂 long way to come even for your skills lol. Amazing job tho.
Gorilla glue gel can actually separate from the liquid gel part so if you're using it I would advise you to press hard/clamp and hold for around a minute. This is only my advise after the experience I've had, obviously if you just want to press it on you may be fine until you get a pot where the mixture isn't perfect.
Just struck me again seeing every cue behind you is an ash shaft...but I always wonder why hardly anyone uses maple cues? I've heard a few ideas here and there like the grain on ash helps aim and also that ash gives more feel to the shot? I've tried a number of cues of both woods over the years and they're all much of a muchness. I don't find the ash grain helps aim at all, if anything it could be distracting. I also don't find ash gives a better feel on shots, it seems to entirely depend on the particular cue and the particular piece of maple or ash it's been made from. Is it really just about everyone liking the look of ash grain and that's about all there is to it? Or most people just copy the majority of pros thinking therefore ash must be better? Seems to me that every cue is very individual and there are no rules about which wood is better for anything. Curious if anyone has more experience with both and can offer more insight.
Hi Antony. Yes thanks, it's been mentioned. Just got used to just sanding the base of all different tips.Thanks for pointing it out though, anything i miss will help others.
Letting people know how to Re tip is good but the way you have spoiled the video but sanding the Ferule for shine is the worst way to re tipping, I dont recommend any professional to opt this method...................
Hi Mohammad It is standard practice here in the Uk. Some use chemicals to shine but then there is the added worry about how this affects the wood just below the ferrule (drying the wood which risks snapping) and of course you don't want any chemicals on your cue tip. Yes, aggressive sandpapers (600 and lower) take brass off the ferrule but most higher ones are polishers taking either remove oxidation from the surface of the brass or the tiny scratches. Larger scratches require more aggressive sandpapers. Ferrules are at least 1mm thick and some threaded are up to 2mm so you have a lot of play. I play 4 times a week and fit a cue tip to mine every 2 months, had this cue 5 years with the same ferrule; if it becomes an issue then it is simple enough to change it. I've watched cue makers who have built cues that have won world championships this way with two different world champions and other cue makers regarded as the best in the world so I guess we all have our own methods. Thank you for taking the time to comment, take care and have a Happy New Year.
Your joking 25 mins to do a tip, thank god he doesn't do mine, 10mins tops to do a tip and you don't need all this messing about, plus all the things he said that can go wrong don't. If it's done correctly, but you take your time. But he's right there are many ways to do a tip, but for me not this way, it just takes to long.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. The reason the video is this long is I generally try and show a way to fit a tip that all people starting out can attempt and take a lot of time to explain all the different parts as I get many emails with various questions regarding shaping, hence all the extra time talking, explaining etc. Yes, I can do a tip in 10 minutes personally and when I get batches of cues in I generally do 25 in the morning inckuding burnishing but that type of video probably won't help the guys looking for an explanation of each element, hence the videos.
Hi Peter Normally when I fit a tip I just do and it doesn't take long. I fit many tips a week from the standard club player up to guys that can get a maximum that want the tips shaped in a certain way which might not be standard. The videos are drawn out so people that don't know a great deal about tips get a bit more than someone just sticking one on, cutting the sides and off they go, hence all the palava as you put it. You have to remember people have varying experience in fitting tips from nothing to a lot, hence the videos are aimed to cover both. As much as I could do a 10 minute video and just do it you would miss the people who weren't sure just by looking. With respect, maybe do a few videos for youtube your way to offer to the people that just want to see it done swiftly so it covers both sorts of viewers. I do it to help people so it certainly won't offend me, I'm not paid to do it.
Thank you for this video. I followed exactly and I’ve impressed myself how perfect it is. The scalpel with rotating cue is so much better than chopping down on the tip.
No problem. Glad it helped you.
That was a tip fitting masterclass 👌 you have an eye for perfection sir
Thank you, you offer by far the most comprehensive videos on retipping! My first retip went just about perfect! Looks like straight out of the factory again. Just the sandpaper on the ferrule hurt my soul. Even the 2000 grit felt like it was grinding off a good chunk of the ferrule so i stopped and taped off the ferrule. Afterwards i used some polishing paste to shiny up the ferrule again. Doing so i taped of the wood and tried to be careful not getting anywhere close the the wood, as my polishing paste contains tiny amounts of sodium laureth sulfate (soap) which could remove the oil from the wood.
Taping the ferrule is the best way. If you find you are still touching it through the tape (masking tape), use electrical tape.
If you find any if the tape too sticky and taking off oil under the ferrule then use a 'Low tack' decorator's tape.
On the ferrule, you can use the least aggressive sandpaper to do the job and work backwards; 2000, 3000 are really a polishing grade so should be fine on brass.
When you get good you should be able to remove the side walls if the tip with a scalpal, shape the top if the tip without touching the ferrule as it protected and shine the brass with polishing grade papers rather than repair it; it's all practice.
Lots of long term tip fitters don't need any protection as they've been doing it for decades.
Good luck.
Marc
Good job sir. I enjoyed the lesson and picked up a few good techniques. Thank you.👍
Thank you Brian.
Key is to protect the wood at all times all in all a very good tutorial also does different adhesives such as gel and superglue effect feel on ball striking
Hi Robert
Thanks for the comments
As regards gel vs liquid for feel on cue ball striking I've never noticed the difference and have used both to death.
I hear people saying liquid dries brittle and gel dries with a cushion effect or the gel covers all gaps so less pinging on ball strike but you could argue the liquid finds all gaps.
For me there is no noticable difference and I've tried it on pressed vs laminated and soft vs hard; as I said, others may disagree and had different results; be happy to hear them.
Thanks for vid, good job, very helpful
No problem, glad to help.
Cant wait to get my G2 one done tomorrow
Great video. Do you have to compress the century tips? Are the cues behind you for sale?
Hi
No, the Century tips are ready to go and don't need any compression.
You can purchase our cues at snookerceazy.com 😀
How about elkmaster? I just did my very first elk tip and it's frayed badly when sanding it to shape. Any tips please to save the tip? Or get rid of the fluff?
Hiya
If you have frayed edges or tiny pieces of leather sticking out then you can take them off with a finer grade of sandpaper, eg 800 or 1200.
Thank you Sir, I just wonder if you have a website so I can order some tips and snooker tools thanks alot👍🏽
Hi
My website is:
snookercrazy.com
Which tip do you think is the best for snooker and pool?
Tip
@@Nothilekhumalo2008 Century Pro Tip G3 for snooker .
Today my Century Cue Tips "Hard" have come. I will change tomorrow. Had Blue Diamond on it before, was too soft for me, has deformed extremely. Hope to get along better with them
I used to use Blue Diamonds but they got a little too spongy for me. A G4 is pretty hard, I prefer a G1 or G2 nowadays. G3 also pretty popular.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 OK, thank you. I'll test the G4 for a while, if it's nothing, then I'll put the G3 on it
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 The day before yesterday the G4 tested the I'm 4 hours training match. I get along very well, just bumps and impacts very well.
Very nice tip & helpful vid, I'm going to practice your spinning method with the scalpel on some elks on an old half cue I've got before I do my playing cue. I use the G3's as well.
Hi Robert
Thank you.
I've used a few methods over the years but I like the spinning the cue method as if you always try and find the sharp part of the blade (which changes as it blunts) you should be able to take a small amount off at a time (like sharpening a pencil).
If you try and take too large a piece off then the blade will just dig in to the tip and you would feel like you are going to cut a chunk off.
Thanks Marc I will take my time with it. I do a couple of my team mates tips as well, we play in the Eastbourne snooker league.
@@robertconnell5302 Not a million miles from me then Robert, I'm sure there was a coach that way that I spoke to once, Tom Wright? Seemed like a nice guy.
@@marclockley3229 I've only been playing the league about 8 years Marc, so could be before that as I don't know him. It's a good league with a few tasty players in it I can tell you, century breakers. If I can put any your way for snooker stuff I will.
@@robertconnell5302 I've just ;looked him up, he is actually in Peacehaven, between you and Brighton. Any recommends are good so thanks for that.
Mark, is that glue the 15g bottle?
Yes mate.
Only use new bottles of this, the adhesive can separate from the gel on older bottles.😮
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Thanks mate, not a glue i see for sale here a lot but i can order a few from ebay.
I'm used to Bison and loctite but as i had tips come off lately i want to try that gorilla.
Do you have a link for the scalpel and the blades for it ?
Blades (10a):
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333855409577?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4dbb5545a9:g:Xw4AAOSwM9Nf~cob&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkCrLl8erj3ATP5raQxjc%252F%252B2QZhBh2c2%252B1g2%252BwpvdyKLexpM%252F1g07vvgnfY%252F%252FJO0QVtCsKsZ4MMYBusMdsu6WNvo8bkBYfKSPvwUpYPLRzeN%252FzC5qOdEOfbVwdTj0iLyWbgdkDeY2gYYLSvaBuHSFtcGA6ISNqaAy9T%252F5qZwRcgRvuNnjm4Cw5d4wAtBI3H6QzPfw6pVv2qW7Ioe%252FVEe21C6snrB6ZqFhi2WYg1BHSQrFyAkd%252FOIzbE6FZlfglC608S%252B4fCXq96AyiSBIq9G%252B1M9FULjF19Iugu0YMIhoWasHialBr030%252FNT%252BVieeO7oaA1YYxkv%252FuOSvjDwPj08pzorB4syrKBrSsrKh3TEz4ABUhH0YmIqz0cQMqo872BaOGHLplaI5Ah78%252BKBW9snjZn06yn5V7J6c%252FqsoKTeAYwvKvo78s%252BZWIk3%252FhmcMn84wJyCkAFimohslqdAESqRrX2u4eCHjJRoc%252FZIBADF27Ia0DhJvep74T5yzj5IlPgP5WUuspgjxvXymdwoHgTBoZj%252FJCDNOj%252FJNmK101tZrssJ9Bx35n0S%252F5gBHG2eW%252BRtsnDqXvhshO3Ii%252FSW49MQZktJlCaxAMOL12w8V5YC4bMdpOlDwWQa2TbNHhZbaMDUWE0vb%252BdQlJfXpwCzy1LKVwXtev3cUUrPmr1ig9kE2r%252Bfxnr546u29e4btY6t4sQlMaI61gVRcSr4s7ZqgI4whbXuL2JAJUZid2GxNcfswtI7I4EmVDRFQzBWRq5ucuve1jUM%252F0uVbPDC2AMxWZ%252FA%252BrLNB250ZH%252B62afHHs3Y2pTjE%253D%7Ccksum%3A3338554095777aa360814e6d4049a26a28d3965b5809%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Scalpel (No.3):
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233411530557?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3658694f3d:g:b3EAAOSweRpd2A2p&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%252FB3MpZkIF5vZRYjry7LZMyAqnVIA4E8Q6O8EAKDorH51C0XP8fQX9%252Fyh5inOgInDclimziYzkGKCN5%252F%252FHXxTXXJvgHAheyPdYoTAmIMzwR91eJc8nMCJsbFT0lN1Wc5HMzGMeShQaHCtb5XVtGzRd1jgxFO6WzfEaYcyw8829JRflbSiPfcJmBwbV0EM%252BoEf9aAfeS%252FVUpue6QIn6IuYgQL9nNrbDkVna9pDLPqNWv802jhZodBBde1qnDBXgdjtkyGKiNVY%252BhhDofh9RRuQktS0YVVoxj714KuHk5VkLbUJo0YAFQeEGZNqVsKAUTQNu9gmtVwujNUd67O5vSwND%252FcGlZRC4aXGfH6%252BckZXudodnZlK8HkEb%252BdREJLqTyCGW4ysoa2zvfReW34IA2FPvmjHP1No6w3fQD3%252FArfTgeN0gzd%252BppD8ITKY2F%252B2FUGR%252BytxfcyevUu55iwx%252BH8a8ZOdEodHoMlWhLzYTnhlRiJkN9SncX%252BeoNNHkYEB92xSVpZTfKbMAMFvn3lSVOWCDs4%252F1%252F7Rp8Ui2l1w62X5IviPxjhDtrlZmwRBwM6RrF1mEo7DxxTvhRzsHQqyaac22VJ3ZDwkCCpPBBSWflATTRsDDUuu2KJiDsJob8fJcsf2kod%252BtUjh88ofOpVg2zO9UgUbcSutu2lqkS%252FfrdgX08nSREP2Mr0UcPf9qOvlgYnaeRsZewghb6OUi%252FVO3cabV5HLXqvM0YWIcKdkpaG4oeygvJHXZJR1bUvBD56pF4BE1X%252FtfW6f8uXoN3f0jElzVnAg%253D%7Ccksum%3A2334115305579d157e1214fc479a8f582c3bbd3f9d91%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Hi Marc random question here , the cue I have has the same joint as Robert Osborne cues , it’s Called a large spiralock , similar to the maximus ones but maximus are thinner, do you have any idea where I could get a 9 or 11” medium extended mini butt from , I tried emailing you but had no response
Thanks
Much appreciated
Hi
Not sure where the email went as everyone gets an answer so possibly spam.
I did have some a while back but unfortunately ran out.
Maybe try Stu Green at Green Baize, very helpful.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thanks , I’ve contacted stu , hopefully I get one as I’ve been looking for ages to get one
Thanks
@@amaaniqbal1668 No problem. Stay safe.
That was an excellent job on that tip. Looks pretty much perfect to me. Are those tips available in soft medium hard? Always used elkmaster but they can be very inconsistant. Sometimes takes 1 or 2 tips to find a good one
Hi Jason
Yes, they are available in 4 grades. You can find them here:
www.snookercrazy.com/product-category/tip-fitting-accessories/
how about burnishing the the side of the tips?
Hi, on the CC website installation guide, it states not to sandpaper the top of the tip, only to use a file? (and they promote their CC cue tip file) i don't see any problems but just something i thought i should ask, also, CC recommend using burnishing wax (also a CC burnishing wax) on sides of tip, is this necessary as you didn't include in video? thanks so much, have got g3's coming in mail, many thanks
Hiya
Obviously we all have our preferred method to fit a tip. The method I show is a more basic method to help people get going without it being too complicated.
Personally I generally fit tips holding a long sharp bare blade which I've been doing for years, most people would shred their hands which is why I don't promote it.
I burnish the old way which is the shiny side of bare leather and the roll the cue up and down my thigh whist sitting, many long term tip fitters do the same. You can use wax but no real need as the side walls will go hard without it.
Obviously Century supply a file which is one grade of coarseness but different players require different effects on the top surface of the tip hence using the appropriate paper.
Some advise not to use paper as it may leave some of the sand in the tip surface, if you're not confident, just check the surface.😀
Do you have a link for the scalpel and glue please?
Hi Simon
The scalpal holder is a no.3 and the blades are a 10a, I usually use Swan Morton. The glue I prefer is the liquid loctite but a loctite gel might be easier if you want a little more time before the glue goes off.
I just fitted my tip, i can see one side has a tiny hair width gap, should i start over?
What scalpel do you use to trim the tip? I used Stanley but it’s a bit crude and would like something more delicate - thanks
Hi Elmir
I use a 10a scalpel blade and from memory a no.3 handle.😀
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 i think a video on using a scalpel and trimming the tip is in order 😅
Just taken a quick nose at your website Marc, I've only just bought a new (mid/high end) cue and the tip that came on it was super hard! Way too hard for my liking so I removed it for the favoured elkmaster tip. This one too was too hard, quite surprising as I usually prefer a harder tip. It seems that with this new cue a softer tip that will take a little of the initial clunk off the shot will suit the cue and player (myself) better. Now here's where I got a little confused, I always thaught blue diamond was a softer tip than the elkmaster, it sais on your site that it is not the case!??
Do you sell anything that might suit my needs...as I said above this cue seems to want a softer tip for it to give me the "feel" I'm after...do you have anything you could recommend mate?
Thankyou.
Mark.
Being open, tips are somewhat of a lottery at the moment as regards hardness. Blue Diamonds have always been soft and softer than Elks (in my opinion) but the last batch if 25 boxes are like bullets. It's like they've decided to soak them in a resin (like most other manufacturers) and haven't got it right.
Their Elk Pro tips aren't too bad but certainly not cheap.
The Century G1s are also a reasonable bet for softness but again very hit and miss at the moment. It seems the industry is struggling a little to meet each grade for some reason with any consistent accuracy.
what's the difference between a flat shaped tip and one with the shape of a dome...
The theory is that a domed shape tip will have more surface area contact with the cue ball so hence more grip.
@@marclockley3229 isn't that the other way round...a dome will be better for side play... but a flat tip by its very nature will offer a better bite due to the larger surface of contact...
dunno hence a bit confused...
Bom dia estou tentado compra pelo site mas fica dano erro no cep mas e o cep daqui ta serto
Hi Sir. How I can fix the dents of my snooker cue shaft?
Hi Matti
To be honest, there are so many types of dents e.g dull, sharp, surface, deep holes, cuts etc etc. It also depends what the dent is in (Shaft/butt) as to how you approach it.
At some point when I get time I'll do a video on a few to help but really busy making leather cue cases at the minute.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Thanks Sir
What’s the little knife blade thing called
I generally use a scalpal. This is made up of a no.3 blade holder and a no.10a blade.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thanks very much mate
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scalpel-Handle-No-3-BP-Handle-Fully-Autoclavable-Blade-Holder-Stainless-Steel-CE-/223515170323?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Is this basically the same thing?
@@amaaniqbal6907 Hi. Yes this is a No.3 handle so that is fine. I normally use a Swan Morton 10A blade which fits straight on there, I get them from Ebay Uk.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thanks I think I’ll order one now , only £10 for 50. 10a blade s and £3.50 for the no 3 handle
Watching you ‘score the base’ with a scalpel that near to you fingers made my teeth itch😮😂
Hi could you please upload a video on how to remove a brass female joint from a cue butt that has broken or jammed inside the end of the cue.
Gostaria de compra 4 Century g1
Hi how can i make my cue shaft look darker l did 2coots with jhon parris linseed oil to my cue but still not that dark can you make a video to show us how you will do it thanks
Hi
Can you send me a picture of how dark your cue is and something that resembles how dark you want to make it.
Thanks Marc
Damned!! 2 out of 2nd boxes of CC- G3 couldn't retain it's shape! 1 lopsided so much to 1 side of the tip and is wobbly/mushy that I have to peel it off my cue just with my fingers... My bad luck for the 2nd box or so much for quality!!
Wow, I've never had a problem with more than 1 in a box, you must be very unlucky.
If it's definately the tips and you want to try a similar alternative then try a Taylor Made Medium or Hard (not sure how hard a tip you like).
If the tip is wobbly because the base of the tip or the ferrule isn't perfectly flat then this can cause the tip to peel off. Email me on Snooker Crazy website if this is the case.
@@marclockley3229Definitely a perfect ferrule as can possibly be, it peels off leaving 1/3 of the tip thickness still glued to ferrule. Is there a link to Taylor?
@@bsftree This is the link to the tips page. You can find the soft, med and hard here.
www.snookercrazy.com/product-category/tip-fitting-accessories/
@@marclockley3229 Thank you. You have any idea how these Taylor tips' hardness correspond to CC?? something close to G3 maybe..
@@bsftree Each tip is normally in a range if tested for hardness so it depends where on the range you like it. There are only 3 in the TM range so it will fall in the med and hard but past that it is personal.
Hi can u give tips on how should I fix bends in my cue and make the cue shaft straight
Hi
Regretfully, I would probably have to say no as it is a bit of a job to explain without showing and it is really easy to make matters worse and I wouldn't want that to happen.
I generally do some by hand but it's better to use steam in my opinion so you get into the real fibres of the wood as many just go back after a while as the wood wants to bend wherever the tension pushes it to.
I was told once that in the old days every cue that left Peradon was steamed whether straight or not to set the wood so it was perfectly straight prior to use. They believed that if the steam got into the wood first that they could ensure it stayed straight; apparently at their height, over 3000 cues left the factory each week so a lot of cues to steam!
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 so steaming will help the cue get straight.... Should we apply any external pressure because I'm scared of cracking my shaft or the wood fibres become loose?
@@naganathaniyer3300 Yes, I always apply some pressure depending on the severity of the warp. If you aren't experienced in making them straight I would avoid doing it as it can easily ruin the cue and it's difficult to explain straightening without showing.
Hi, I just put on a centrury G3 tip yesterday. I played today, generally it felt good on shots I played firm with centre ball striking. However gentle shots with top for instance,It felt very tinny and vibrates quite a bit. Could this be just the shaping of the tip, which I did rush a bit to be honest?
Wasnt sure if I potentially mucked up putting the tip on in any way
Very difficult to say as I'd have to have a go with the cue, could be a few things. For me, if it feels what I call tinny then the base of the tip might not he a perfect fit on the ferrule or nit enough glue across the surface so air underneath; again, a little difficult to say.
Brilliant, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks again
@@porky7979 If you do take it off, hold a ruler or something flat across the ferrule and hold it up to the light to make sure you yave a perfectly flat surface to fit the tip to. The light (e.g. the sky) will show any deviances.
Where are you based mate
Hi Ryan
6 miles North of Portsmouth.
@@marclockley3229 oh dear. I loved how you put that tip on but just looked it up and you are 3 hours 44 mins away from me 😂😂 long way to come even for your skills lol. Amazing job tho.
Can send my snooker cue to you for repair ?
Hi
Sorry, at the moment we are putting all our spare time into making our custom made leather cues cases (Majestic Leather Cue Cases).
According to Gorilla, the super glue gel dries in about 10 seconds and no clamping is required ? Just press it on
Gorilla glue gel can actually separate from the liquid gel part so if you're using it I would advise you to press hard/clamp and hold for around a minute. This is only my advise after the experience I've had, obviously if you just want to press it on you may be fine until you get a pot where the mixture isn't perfect.
good
Glad you enjoyed it.
Just struck me again seeing every cue behind you is an ash shaft...but I always wonder why hardly anyone uses maple cues? I've heard a few ideas here and there like the grain on ash helps aim and also that ash gives more feel to the shot? I've tried a number of cues of both woods over the years and they're all much of a muchness. I don't find the ash grain helps aim at all, if anything it could be distracting. I also don't find ash gives a better feel on shots, it seems to entirely depend on the particular cue and the particular piece of maple or ash it's been made from. Is it really just about everyone liking the look of ash grain and that's about all there is to it? Or most people just copy the majority of pros thinking therefore ash must be better? Seems to me that every cue is very individual and there are no rules about which wood is better for anything.
Curious if anyone has more experience with both and can offer more insight.
You do know that that g3 thing on the bottom is a sticker? It just peels off
Hi Antony. Yes thanks, it's been mentioned. Just got used to just sanding the base of all different tips.Thanks for pointing it out though, anything i miss will help others.
I could never do that.
Letting people know how to Re tip is good but the way you have spoiled the video but sanding the Ferule for shine is the worst way to re tipping, I dont recommend any professional to opt this method...................
Hi Mohammad
It is standard practice here in the Uk.
Some use chemicals to shine but then there is the added worry about how this affects the wood just below the ferrule (drying the wood which risks snapping) and of course you don't want any chemicals on your cue tip.
Yes, aggressive sandpapers (600 and lower) take brass off the ferrule but most higher ones are polishers taking either remove oxidation from the surface of the brass or the tiny scratches.
Larger scratches require more aggressive sandpapers.
Ferrules are at least 1mm thick and some threaded are up to 2mm so you have a lot of play. I play 4 times a week and fit a cue tip to mine every 2 months, had this cue 5 years with the same ferrule; if it becomes an issue then it is simple enough to change it.
I've watched cue makers who have built cues that have won world championships this way with two different world champions and other cue makers regarded as the best in the world so I guess we all have our own methods.
Thank you for taking the time to comment, take care and have a Happy New Year.
WEAR GLOVES!!!!! Yes! Ha ha!
Your joking 25 mins to do a tip, thank god he doesn't do mine, 10mins tops to do a tip and
you don't need all this messing about, plus all the things he said that can go wrong don't.
If it's done correctly, but you take your time.
But he's right there are many ways to do a tip, but for me not this way, it just takes to long.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. The reason the video is this long is I generally try and show a way to fit a tip that all people starting out can attempt and take a lot of time to explain all the different parts as I get many emails with various questions regarding shaping, hence all the extra time talking, explaining etc.
Yes, I can do a tip in 10 minutes personally and when I get batches of cues in I generally do 25 in the morning inckuding burnishing but that type of video probably won't help the guys looking for an explanation of each element, hence the videos.
What a palava. Never known such a complicated way to tip a cue.
Hi Peter
Normally when I fit a tip I just do and it doesn't take long. I fit many tips a week from the standard club player up to guys that can get a maximum that want the tips shaped in a certain way which might not be standard.
The videos are drawn out so people that don't know a great deal about tips get a bit more than someone just sticking one on, cutting the sides and off they go, hence all the palava as you put it.
You have to remember people have varying experience in fitting tips from nothing to a lot, hence the videos are aimed to cover both.
As much as I could do a 10 minute video and just do it you would miss the people who weren't sure just by looking.
With respect, maybe do a few videos for youtube your way to offer to the people that just want to see it done swiftly so it covers both sorts of viewers. I do it to help people so it certainly won't offend me, I'm not paid to do it.