Just a heads up almost any variety can have a determinate growth pattern “version” Seems like there is some confusion on that. So for example beefsteak can be determinate as well if you get the right kind. You very well could have an SM that is indeterminate. Completely possible! Even a Roma can be indeterminate (see below) Below are some examples. www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds www.prairieseedshop.ca/product/romatomato/197 www.reimerseeds.com/beefsteak-determinate-tomato-seeds.aspx
I bought a simple watering system from a well known website, have yet to set it up. Heat wave for the next week, so when my pup goes out in the morning, I water. Not everything Stuff up front is getting neglected a bit. I just want vegetables and flowers in backyard to flourish. Also, my backyard looks like crap, like no one has lived here in years. Weeds and trees, ugh! I’m older and with broken legs I just couldn’t keep up. So veggies it is!
I've been wondering about this! I've had seed packets say determinate and I've been like hmm.. as we all know, packet info isn't always reliable. I wish there was a way to tell!
Since writing my comment 2wks ago, I've noticed my SM tomatoes haven't really grown taller. (They're about 5 1/2ft or so) They all seem to be developing fruit but I haven't needed to readjust their ties 🤔 I've only ever grown cherry tomatoes. Is this typical?
Long ago when where I lived had lots of space I would plant with a steak to support the main stock, trim off 6 to 8 inches of leaves off the bottom to keep everything off the ground. Then I'd keep an eye on things and push another stake or tree branch into the ground a couple feet away from the main stem when the additional stems started looking like they needed support. I'd end up with an almost canopy of tomatoes about 4 feet off the ground. My son loved playing under them. It was like his own miniature jungle. Perfect for his imagination to grow and for his toys to live they're best lives. 😂 I had my best tomato harvests doing things that way. I miss having that kind of space.
I came looking for info on pruning and suckers and got hit with so much terminology. I threw some seeds into a bed and now I'm hearing about determinate indeterminate Florida weaving puppeteering topping flopping planting depth yada yada. Holy tomato! Thank you. Now Im going to dig a ditch in my garden , jump in it and take a nap.
Dont worry. You can get great results by not doing any pruning. You can make gardening as simple or as complicated as you want. You do however have to support or stake your vines, pretty much.
Right? One summer on a whim I decided to buy a few packs of seeds. Never gardened as an adult, only had a memory of cherry tomatoes in our backyard as a kid being the best ever. Boy did I open up a can of worms.
Thank you! I needed to hear that! 😂 I live in Egypt. They all think i am nuts because I grow them up instead of on the ground and even crazier because I prune them. I just try different things and see how the plants react and the results. So far so good😅
I believe it's best to accept the plant just how it is not change it to fit my needs lol last week one of my tomatoes told me he identify as an orange tree and I support him 100%😂😂
It is fine to not prune an indeterminate tomato plant as long as you give it plenty of room and water and fertilizer and stake it up well and you are willing to accept a higher risk of disease from having lower leaves contact the ground and you don't mind digging through the jungle of leaves and branches to find ripening tomatoes. I did okay growing tomatoes that way for several years, but now I generally like to grow my plants very close together and prune off most or all of the suckers on my indeterminate tomato plants. I do like the idea of topping tomato plant seedlings to get 2 main stems instead of one main stem plus a sucker stem. The main advantage is that it is less likely that the stems will split from each other. You will just need to plan to start your plants a week or 2 earlier to account for the extra set back from topping seedlings.
Yes!!! Follow your heart and listen to the plant. Prune based on your spacing needs, prune overcrowded leaves, or don't prune at all (but I highly suggest it to keep them under control) I have one tomato plant that's squat and bushy, it's putting all it's energy into suckers. I'm letting it. That's what it wants. I'm predicting it's determinate.
@@Wonderland_Homestead Don't you know what variety it is? Therefore, you should already know whether it is determinant or indeterminate. I have 2 determinate varieties that I am growing this year and I will not remove any of the suckers.
My 85 year old mum you must take the suckers my dad did that my grandma on my dads side was no let nature do its thing me I don’t see the difference 🤷♂️ I just keep the peace and prune mums lol
I find some tomatoes are just nothing but big pest and disease problems at certain times of the year I find the Roma tomato the most problem free tomato to grow and also the small Eye call them a pair tomato the little tiny yellow ones find other varieties. just too much drama with pest and disease maybe it’s just my climate here in Queensland.
I learned from another channel Spring Hill Farms to use the 12 leaf method where you prune all the leaves below the top 12. They were growing in a greenhouse (in Canada) to sell at a market, so this improved airflow and access to pick the fruit. I grow mostly indeterminate varieties, but I do have the San Marzano, which I trellis, but only prune a few of the lower leaves for airflow. I have a limited area that gets sufficient sun, so pruning allows for a higher plant density. I like to grow the "marketable" tomatoes because having larger uniform product makes for more efficient processing. The amount of work to process smaller tomatoes vs larger ones is the same. The problem with smaller ones is you need a lot more time and quantity to acheive the same results with the larger ones. This year I am switching to the toma hook to do the lean method. I looked at the rollers, but apparently the rollers need replacing after about 3 years. I had fun showing off 14 foot tall tomatoes, but having to use a ladder to constantly prune and pick has gotten old. Since I start my plants from seed, I just double the tomato plants in a 7 gallon container and go with a single leader. This worked well last year with 5 gallon containers (I ran out of potting soil) growing Pompeii tomatoes on double leaders. I am in the Minneapolis Minnesota area, so the more aggressive indeterminate varieties are usually 10-14 feet long by season end.
I've had a skepticism about excessive indeterminate tomato plant pruning and just take the lower branches and suckers off (maybe up to 12 inches from ground level), as well as select ones above, to reduce disease and increase airflow. Otherwise I leave them. I use heavyweight square tomato cages that I stake into the ground and then zip tie on additional wire trellis vertically, if the tomato plant gets too high. Two years ago my tomato plants got to be 7 feet tall and I pulled in a good harvest. Last year we had the horrible drought which severely affected the outcome, so we'll see about this year. Things look pretty good so far, but I probably could prune a bit more on the indeterminates, as I know you don't want the plants to be too stressed and wonder if that plays a part in blossom drop... it's a balancing game I feel. I'll have to look and see if you've done a video on the blossom set spray because I tried it and am uncertain as to its helpfulness; I think I read a study saying that it was only effective on colder temperatures? Anyway... I have some tomatoes blushing now and am so excited! A GIC fan from Chicago/6A. 😊
As a Coastal Cdn, I appreciate what you had to say. I've inadvertently tried both pruning and non-pruning depending on when camping trips were scheduled, and whether rain at home occurred. So have learned to keep the pruning urge under control until later in the season. Except for the growth at the bottom of the stem - you just do get more tomatoes and fewer munching critters I find if you keep the bottom of the plant tidy. However, I have also learned to top all the plants about mid-Sept to encourage the plant to finish off the season (1st wk of Oct-ish). Also, many determinant varieties seem to proceed to die off around the end of August. Annoying but it does spread out the canning nicely. I pushed the 'subscribe' button.
In AZ, in my garden, I have figured out that the best way to prune is…not at all. Pretty much. (I will prune sick branches or branches that are in the way). I used to prune heavily, and found my fruit getting sunburned, even with shadecloth. Now I leave the foliage and all of that foliage provides shade for the tomatoes underneath. It also should be noted that in my dry climate, I don’t deal with very much disease/fungus/etc. I have a thick layer of mulch and drip irrigation and don’t even worry about leaves on the ground. I will do a little bit of puppeteering, but I have found my lazy ways to be quite productive. ❤
I’m here in Az also and have found the same thing. Check out the Arizona worm farm. They prune theirs and have them climb a support string and their tomatoes are beautiful. They do shade cloth theirs which I’m doing for some of my plants this year. All are looking great though I have gotten quite a few sunburned tomatoes. Someday I’ll take this gardening thing seriously!
Thank you for demonstrating how to prune and trellis the indeterminate tomato. I usually prune all the suckers, but this year, I'm growing two main stems on one of my plants! Cheers! 🍅
Personally i only prune dying branches on my tomatos, and have a great result. I mostly grow indeterminites. Im in zone 6a. I also grow san marzano, but the variety i have say indeterminate on the packet(they grow like one too). I got over 100 tomatos off of one plant last year, on treack for 1000s this year.
I personally think that a grid trellis is probably the best way to grow indeterminates. It's easy, takes less faffing and you only really tie the plant once at the bottom when it's still too short to weave in the grid but tall enough to get knocked around in the wind. You're just weaving the plant through the grid as it grows, like once a week or so you just weave the top though. And it looks great, too.
Agree!! I use cattle panels because they are cheap, strong enough to handle ANY vine, nearly indestructible, and can be covered later for shade or high tunnel. (Put pipe insulation on edges to prevent tearing plastic) The grid gives you plenty of options to secure your vines with tapes, ties, or clips. I also put solar lights on mine because I work weird hours and can check on everything at night if needed.
My experience of best results in a long California summer with indeterminate is - 2 main stems, leave each sucker develop one bloom and then cut above it. Also - end of June I let root the sucker in the water and plant a new tomatoes plants. Some of my second crop ( mostly cherries) I can harvest even through the winter and next year.
Not Canadian but Alaskan. And this was very helpful since our climates are so similar and everyone down south has such long growing seasons! Their tips just aren't the same.
I live in Florida and still find your info very useful, much of it i just convert over to our shoukder seasons here and even winter gardening (Central FL so usually pots for the winter "crops"
One thing I've done before when I had several tomatoes that weren't ripe before we were about to get frost, was cutting the plant at the base, and hanging it upside down in a garage. The tomatoes took a while but they did ripen from what I remember!
12:48 This point makes me wonder if the timing of pruning would matter. Like should you allow the plant to grow unpruned until it begins to flower or just prune from the start? Great info. There's always so much to learn about growing tomatoes. EDIT: I'm in US zone 9a so temps/growing season isn't an issue. Obviously like you said, cold climate growers have different rules.
Even in Canada 🇨🇦 it can be worthwhile growing suckers, at least for cherry tomatoes. Had a great crop of midnight snack cherry tomatoes from two sucker plants last year.
I did it 5 years ago. It was a last week of August and it's getting cold. All of my tomato fruits were still green. I cut off the top and the plant shoot lots of suckers, removed all suckers and after 2 weeks my tomatoes started to turn red. I have been doing the same procedure since then. 😊😊
Nice video and basically what I do when pruning tomatoes. Regardless of what I do below, the plant eventually has the lower 8-10 inches of leaves removed. I like double stemming indeterminates, except cherry tomatoes. Its a trade off between size of fruit and number of fruit. With double stemming you dont lose much size and get more tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes I start off double stemming removing all the suckers below the second stem (usually about a foot up), then let them go wild. Determinates are basically left to go wild in sturdy tomato cages.
What about cherry tomatoes? They mature faster than the large varieties. I use them for everything. I grow them in SE Texas because our season is cut short by heat. Unlike the larger tomatoes, these guys just slow down flowering when it’s super hot and then fully recover when the temperature drops. ☺️
So glad to have finally found someone in Canada. However, I hope you don’t mind if I make a suggestion. Near the end when you were showing us how to do the pruning, it was very difficult to see. If you could get a little closer, maybe it would be easier to figure out. Because honestly, right now I’m rather confused. But thank you so much, definitely, for doing this for us Canadians.
I weave and string (in Montreal, i think same zone as you) my family calls me the puppet master, I have strings on pretty much every branch. Plants are massive already
I grow my tomatoes on a page wire trellis. Other than pruning the lower leaves for air flow, I simply tie everything to the trellis - I kept track of varieties and weight harvested and the average size of tomato - I was happy. Another person read my information and commented that she prunes and although her average tomato size was larger, I had a higher yield per plant or it was similar. I am growing for yield and not size. Good video.
I experimented with topping seedlings this spring. It worked very well and set back growth about 3 weeks. Next year I will start a selection of seeds 3 weeks before normal and have some true double leader tomatoes ready at transplant time. I will then "single stem" prune each of the 2 leaders.
Easy peasy. Lemon squeezy. 🎉🎉 My new love is dwarf tomatoes. If a tomato plant was a sheep dog. That's the vibe . Central Illinois ...no blite also no sun scald. They are tough mothers. Not the best harvest volume but basically bullet proof.
Southern Ontario tomato season can be fairly long. You can plant out mid-May if the forecast looks good, and the plants can keep going into October, sometimes even November in the warmest zones. Since the summers aren't that hot, typically in the mid-high 20s rather than 30-35C+, it means the plants get less stressed and less disease issues than in the southern US and as a result often last longer, so we can get 2-3 months of vine ripe harvesting, maybe even close to 4 months in Zone 6-7 for single-stemmed cherry tomatoes transplanted at 2ft tall. That means un-topped tomatoes can get quite big, I've had a beef steak tomato reach 10ft, and cherry tomatoes reach 13ft, despite leaving several suckers on the beefsteak, and dozens of suckers on the cherry tomato. That means even with puppeteering you'd have to lower the plants quite a lot, especially cherry tomatoes. I haven't tried that method yet, I might give it a go for beefsteak/slicer tomatoes, but for cherry tomatoes my preference remains growing them up, then sideways along a fence line or cattle panel arch.
James Prigioni uses a method where he lets suckers produce flowers and then he cuts the growth after the flowers off. I haven't tried it, but I thought it was interesting.
Every time someone pinches off a sucker i scream inside. I struggled for years with inadequate soil volume and nitrogen and moisture stability so incomplete sets etc BUT this year i have last years tomatoes planted into deeper soils with lots of rotting woods over stinky big fisheads set into sheltered positions uplight of shrubs and canna lillies etc so....even the Roma came right through winter and is producing big fruits in full sets. Roma in a cage the indeterminates on strings. Second year Romas are super fleshy.
But as an American I have to say “You can’t tell me what to do.” I have an unpopular opinion when it comes to pruning tomatoes. I leave the suckers because they’re gonna produce fruits. I prune the leaf branches that touch the ground.
I tried the puppeteer method after watching Charles Dowding do it a few years ago and several of my tomatoes broke. I didn't take into account that he was doing it in a greenhouse, and my area is super windy. Even though the plants were wrapped around the string, they'd unravel with the wind! The next year I invested in cattle panels and haven't looked back since lol
Have you tried using the clips with the puppeteer? I bought clips from Walmart made by Burpee. They look like a tiny clamp has a small nose like for the strip. I don't like the circle shaped ones they're only good for 1 year maybe 2. These seem like they'll hold up longer. I bought 1 plant from a nursery they used plastic tape like stapled the ends. I'm also going to try twine loosely tied that I can clip off if needed. It's very windy here haven't had any snap with the Burpee clips.
@@Babs-Veterans-are-Family I haven't tried the Burpee clips, not sure if I've seen them here in Canada. I have the circle clips and also tried foam wires. They didn't all break, but a few of them did, and the movement of the stem from pivoting in the wind seemed to weaken the others. I needed to really secure them somehow and I think I'm just an a place that needs a little extra sturdy support. We have gotten winds over 110 km/hr!
Question 🙋🏻 I need use grow bags (vary in size from 20-30 gallon) and the trellis method like in the video. In the past, I’d do one tomato per bag and let one or two suckers go. This year I thought I could jump start my harvest by just putting 2-3 plants per bag and doing a single stem. Do you think I could get away with two stems per plant if they’re that closely planted 🤔 Thanks 🙏🏼
Hey there, Ashley! Thanks for the info and ideas! This year I decided to experimentally grow mountain magic, sun gold cherry and super sweet 100 so we can compare. All indeterminate I believe so this should be fun 😊
I thought San Marzano was indeterminate type of tomato plant! I've been growing it this summer and guess what, I've been removing suckers, which I think impacted the yield as the plant was way less compact and the production of fruit was concentrated in terms of height! Especially in my case where I'm growing in the balcony and I don't have the chance to let the plant expand too much in height!
Leaving suckers on means you require more space per plant though. Do you know if there's a difference in production per square space with closely spaced single stemmed vs widely spaced unpruned?
Very informative video as usual. However, several times in the video, you used San Marzano tomatoes as an example of determinate tomatoes. I realize that more than one variety of tomatoes is referred to as San Marzano, but any that I can find after a quick search are listed as indeterminate. I certainly hope that ones I planted in my new high tunnel are indeterminate because I have kept them pruned to one leader. I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP! do a video on pseudomanas corrugata and pith necrosis! Somehow my tomatoes caught it and I need help before I completely lose every single one of mine! Black rot and co hollowed out stems! I need some guidance on how to combat it or prevent it!
Not sure if you meant San Marzono or if there's another variety called San Marizino? I couldn't find a Marizino. The Marzono variety are indeterminate tomatoes. I have a pack of seeds says right on the package as well as Google.
I like your content. Gardening is an ever growing science experiment ;) Do you have anything on electro culture ? I’d like to hear your tought and maybe observation about it.
Just discovered your channel and learned loads, thank you so much! Do you have any experience with multifloral tomatoes? I’ve got some growing now and not been able to find a huge amount of information on them.
I have some determinate (Manitoba) tomatoes on my balcony. I didn't think they would survive (I didn't have the best lighting conditions when they were seedlings), but since I grew them from seed, I didn't want to toss them either. Now they are growing like weeds, and about 3+ feet tall, but only just getting flowers at the top of the plant. Will leaving all the suckers grow tomatoes further down on the plant? I've never had a tomato plant fail to put out flowers as it was growing like these ones. I haven't done any pruning, except the very bottom branches near the soil.
Would a plant that has more flowers hypothetically require more nutrient rich soil? Would plant density be a worry? (More spacing compared to an unprinted)
"We are the outcasts of the gardening community" ... Perfect! This is where the real answers hang out. Regenerative Agriculture? Lofthouse Landrace? Fukuoka One Straw Revolution? Let's see some more!
I have been almost daily pruning my plants. However, there are some I miss every day my Better Boys are hard to keep from branching out. I have plenty of them because I have been pruning but they growing out of control. How can I here in zone 6A slow them suckers down.
I have miracle gro liquid fertilizer every week or two. But when I started to transplant them I used a microbe nutrient and Dolomites Lime at the bottom before covering them.
@@GardeningInCanada I used liquid fertilizer every other week depending on the weather and when transplanting I use a microbe booster and Dolomites lime at the bottom of the plant and bone meal around the top of the plant and work it into the soil. I did this on all my transplants.
If you have deer or dogs that chase rabbits the Florida weave is a disaster. They run through and drag away the whole garden in tangled mess. So much maintenance stringing them routinely.
Thank you. Okay, I didn't plant deep, they look good, but I put them in a new bed with 'filler' in the bottom and it sunk down...lol...so can I top up the soil or should I wait till the end of the growing season? Or wait till the end of July (I'm in Manitoba, zone 3)? Hi from the Manitoba Interlake !
I use Peak 6-inch x 3.5 ft. x 7 ft. Galvanized Steel Wire Mesh (9-Gauge) from Home Depot. In Canada they cost $22.74 plus tax per unit. I have them attached to T posts vertically.
I watched one UA-cam video that said cherry tomatoes, even indeterminate ones, should be left unpruned, except for low leaves and maybe late season topping. Is there any science supporting that, or anyone that’s tried it both ways?
My San marzano seed package says that they're indeterminate. I've been removing all suckers except for one. Should I be leaving them? I spaced my tomatoes only a foot apart, so I think I've kinda dug my own grave regardless.
I grew them last year and I would call them a dwarf indeterminate. I live in the Minneapolis, Minnesota area and by years end they were close to 5 feet tall. I feed them a higher phosphorus and potassium fertilizer so they don't grow a lot of foliage. I do hit them up with some calcium nitrate on occasion as I grow everything in containers. The challenge is trellising them as they grow bushy like a determinate as I lightly prune suckers so there is airflow and so we can see when tomatoes are ready before the mice get to them. I also don't have all day full sun. I only get full sun between 9 am to about 4pm. So if I had full day sun, they probably would grow longer.
I would believe the seed company but I’ve mostly seen them as determinate. Maybe do 50/50 www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds
I noticed that too, I've grown them for years and the ones I grow are definiteley indeterminate. Maybe there's a variety out there that are determinate?
My peunning method depends on the plant and nutritional program. For cherries, im more inclined to keep a lot more suckers. Usually with proper nutrient management, they can have way more suckers, like 5-8. The key imo is keeping the plant pruned so that the tops of these leaders have light because that keeps them growing and blooming and have energy. If you give them lots of P and K and tte micronutrients, then really they can keep producing. For larger tomatoes, i prefer to let a single stem Y out with a vigorous sucker and then keep it to two stems. Reason is with proper nutrients, rhe plants produce well, good size ideally, and the fruit quality isnt sacrificed. If you have truly large tomatoes, having 3-4 stems may reduce their size, delay ripening, quality, etc.
Counterpoint, what if I'm the kind of dumbass who got confused and has no idea which plant is which type of tomato and is just flying by the seat of my pants while weaving them ALL up a trellis? 😎🍅🤦🏻♀️
Then, just prune off the lower branches & enough of the others to allow for good ventilation and a plant that's not so crazy you can't find the tomatoes! 🍅
You can most definitely buy determinates www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds You can even get beefsteaks that are determinate. Always follow the package or the tag.
@@GardeningInCanada Almost 40 years of growing San Marzano and have never even heard of such a thing as a determinate S. Marzano. Learn something new everyday!
@@DebRoo11 The greenhouse growers have them wound up wires and it makes it easier to pick. Farmers leave them to sprawl on the ground. It's only home gardeners that use supports because we have limited space and want to grow more than just tomatoes. Plus tomatoes near the ground get eaten by voles. Late in the season the squirrels get at them so I pick them green and pickle them. Not the squirrels, the tomatoes.
@@gabriellakadar mmm pickled squirrels 😂 My brother in law and best friends parents had tomato greenhouses for market. They do train them up for sure. Also prune. They always had lota of maters on each. 🤜🏼 🐿 Those critters in the garden sure love feasting off someone else's hard work
@@GardeningInCanada listen here gingersnaps this is called trolling it would please your viewing audience.... Well maybe just me ... if you'd be less agreeable and charming and troll me back 😂😂😂
Just a heads up almost any variety can have a determinate growth pattern “version” Seems like there is some confusion on that. So for example beefsteak can be determinate as well if you get the right kind.
You very well could have an SM that is indeterminate. Completely possible! Even a Roma can be indeterminate (see below)
Below are some examples.
www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds
www.prairieseedshop.ca/product/romatomato/197
www.reimerseeds.com/beefsteak-determinate-tomato-seeds.aspx
I bought a simple watering system from a well known website, have yet to set it up. Heat wave for the next week, so when my pup goes out in the morning, I water. Not everything
Stuff up front is getting neglected a bit. I just want vegetables and flowers in backyard to flourish.
Also, my backyard looks like crap, like no one has lived here in years. Weeds and trees, ugh!
I’m older and with broken legs I just couldn’t keep up.
So veggies it is!
👍🏽
I was just coming here to mention that my package of San Marzanos says they're indeterminate.
That is what I thought! San Marzano is sort of the ultimate INdeterminate tomato in my experience. They just keep growing and growing.
I've been wondering about this! I've had seed packets say determinate and I've been like hmm.. as we all know, packet info isn't always reliable. I wish there was a way to tell!
Since writing my comment 2wks ago, I've noticed my SM tomatoes haven't really grown taller. (They're about 5 1/2ft or so) They all seem to be developing fruit but I haven't needed to readjust their ties 🤔
I've only ever grown cherry tomatoes. Is this typical?
Long ago when where I lived had lots of space I would plant with a steak to support the main stock, trim off 6 to 8 inches of leaves off the bottom to keep everything off the ground. Then I'd keep an eye on things and push another stake or tree branch into the ground a couple feet away from the main stem when the additional stems started looking like they needed support. I'd end up with an almost canopy of tomatoes about 4 feet off the ground. My son loved playing under them. It was like his own miniature jungle. Perfect for his imagination to grow and for his toys to live they're best lives. 😂
I had my best tomato harvests doing things that way. I miss having that kind of space.
I came looking for info on pruning and suckers and got hit with so much terminology. I threw some seeds into a bed and now I'm hearing about determinate indeterminate Florida weaving puppeteering topping flopping planting depth yada yada. Holy tomato!
Thank you. Now Im going to dig a ditch in my garden , jump in it and take a nap.
Dont worry. You can get great results by not doing any pruning. You can make gardening as simple or as complicated as you want. You do however have to support or stake your vines, pretty much.
Right? One summer on a whim I decided to buy a few packs of seeds. Never gardened as an adult, only had a memory of cherry tomatoes in our backyard as a kid being the best ever. Boy did I open up a can of worms.
Thank you! I needed to hear that! 😂 I live in Egypt. They all think i am nuts because I grow them up instead of on the ground and even crazier because I prune them. I just try different things and see how the plants react and the results. So far so good😅
I believe it's best to accept the plant just how it is not change it to fit my needs lol last week one of my tomatoes told me he identify as an orange tree and I support him 100%😂😂
LMFAO dead 💀 mine always seem to change what they are 🙄 either that or my labels are subpar
It is fine to not prune an indeterminate tomato plant as long as you give it plenty of room and water and fertilizer and stake it up well and you are willing to accept a higher risk of disease from having lower leaves contact the ground and you don't mind digging through the jungle of leaves and branches to find ripening tomatoes. I did okay growing tomatoes that way for several years, but now I generally like to grow my plants very close together and prune off most or all of the suckers on my indeterminate tomato plants.
I do like the idea of topping tomato plant seedlings to get 2 main stems instead of one main stem plus a sucker stem. The main advantage is that it is less likely that the stems will split from each other. You will just need to plan to start your plants a week or 2 earlier to account for the extra set back from topping seedlings.
Yes!!! Follow your heart and listen to the plant. Prune based on your spacing needs, prune overcrowded leaves, or don't prune at all (but I highly suggest it to keep them under control)
I have one tomato plant that's squat and bushy, it's putting all it's energy into suckers. I'm letting it. That's what it wants. I'm predicting it's determinate.
@@Wonderland_Homestead
Don't you know what variety it is? Therefore, you should already know whether it is determinant or indeterminate. I have 2 determinate varieties that I am growing this year and I will not remove any of the suckers.
What is your favourite way to prune? I won’t lie… I used to never prune not even indeterminate and I didn’t notice any MAJOR difference 😅.
My 85 year old mum you must take the suckers my dad did that my grandma on my dads side was no let nature do its thing me I don’t see the difference 🤷♂️ I just keep the peace and prune mums lol
I find some tomatoes are just nothing but big pest and disease problems at certain times of the year I find the Roma tomato the most problem free tomato to grow and also the small Eye call them a pair tomato the little tiny yellow ones find other varieties. just too much drama with pest and disease maybe it’s just my climate here in Queensland.
I learned from another channel Spring Hill Farms to use the 12 leaf method where you prune all the leaves below the top 12. They were growing in a greenhouse (in Canada) to sell at a market, so this improved airflow and access to pick the fruit.
I grow mostly indeterminate varieties, but I do have the San Marzano, which I trellis, but only prune a few of the lower leaves for airflow.
I have a limited area that gets sufficient sun, so pruning allows for a higher plant density.
I like to grow the "marketable" tomatoes because having larger uniform product makes for more efficient processing. The amount of work to process smaller tomatoes vs larger ones is the same. The problem with smaller ones is you need a lot more time and quantity to acheive the same results with the larger ones.
This year I am switching to the toma hook to do the lean method. I looked at the rollers, but apparently the rollers need replacing after about 3 years. I had fun showing off 14 foot tall tomatoes, but having to use a ladder to constantly prune and pick has gotten old.
Since I start my plants from seed, I just double the tomato plants in a 7 gallon container and go with a single leader. This worked well last year with 5 gallon containers (I ran out of potting soil) growing Pompeii tomatoes on double leaders.
I am in the Minneapolis Minnesota area, so the more aggressive indeterminate varieties are usually 10-14 feet long by season end.
I've had a skepticism about excessive indeterminate tomato plant pruning and just take the lower branches and suckers off (maybe up to 12 inches from ground level), as well as select ones above, to reduce disease and increase airflow. Otherwise I leave them. I use heavyweight square tomato cages that I stake into the ground and then zip tie on additional wire trellis vertically, if the tomato plant gets too high. Two years ago my tomato plants got to be 7 feet tall and I pulled in a good harvest. Last year we had the horrible drought which severely affected the outcome, so we'll see about this year. Things look pretty good so far, but I probably could prune a bit more on the indeterminates, as I know you don't want the plants to be too stressed and wonder if that plays a part in blossom drop... it's a balancing game I feel. I'll have to look and see if you've done a video on the blossom set spray because I tried it and am uncertain as to its helpfulness; I think I read a study saying that it was only effective on colder temperatures? Anyway... I have some tomatoes blushing now and am so excited! A GIC fan from Chicago/6A. 😊
I do V trellising. I'll prune like a greenhouse mainly for disease control. I can cluster tomatoes together like a mofo.
You are a sweet lady and a blessing to this community. God Bless you!
As a Coastal Cdn, I appreciate what you had to say. I've inadvertently tried both pruning and non-pruning depending on when camping trips were scheduled, and whether rain at home occurred. So have learned to keep the pruning urge under control until later in the season. Except for the growth at the bottom of the stem - you just do get more tomatoes and fewer munching critters I find if you keep the bottom of the plant tidy. However, I have also learned to top all the plants about mid-Sept to encourage the plant to finish off the season (1st wk of Oct-ish). Also, many determinant varieties seem to proceed to die off around the end of August. Annoying but it does spread out the canning nicely. I pushed the 'subscribe' button.
In AZ, in my garden, I have figured out that the best way to prune is…not at all. Pretty much. (I will prune sick branches or branches that are in the way). I used to prune heavily, and found my fruit getting sunburned, even with shadecloth. Now I leave the foliage and all of that foliage provides shade for the tomatoes underneath. It also should be noted that in my dry climate, I don’t deal with very much disease/fungus/etc. I have a thick layer of mulch and drip irrigation and don’t even worry about leaves on the ground. I will do a little bit of puppeteering, but I have found my lazy ways to be quite productive. ❤
Jeeze that sun must be intense!
I’m here in Az also and have found the same thing. Check out the Arizona worm farm. They prune theirs and have them climb a support string and their tomatoes are beautiful. They do shade cloth theirs which I’m doing for some of my plants this year. All are looking great though I have gotten quite a few sunburned tomatoes. Someday I’ll take this gardening thing seriously!
Thank you for demonstrating how to prune and trellis the indeterminate tomato. I usually prune all the suckers, but this year, I'm growing two main stems on one of my plants! Cheers! 🍅
Personally i only prune dying branches on my tomatos, and have a great result. I mostly grow indeterminites. Im in zone 6a. I also grow san marzano, but the variety i have say indeterminate on the packet(they grow like one too). I got over 100 tomatos off of one plant last year, on treack for 1000s this year.
That is fair! Some of the tomatoes in the back of my garden beds I can’t reach to even prune properly
“Watch imma forget to water these and they’re just gonna die” should be my tagline. 😂
😂 you’d be shocked how many times this happens to me 😅
I personally think that a grid trellis is probably the best way to grow indeterminates. It's easy, takes less faffing and you only really tie the plant once at the bottom when it's still too short to weave in the grid but tall enough to get knocked around in the wind. You're just weaving the plant through the grid as it grows, like once a week or so you just weave the top though. And it looks great, too.
Agree!! I use cattle panels because they are cheap, strong enough to handle ANY vine, nearly indestructible, and can be covered later for shade or high tunnel. (Put pipe insulation on edges to prevent tearing plastic)
The grid gives you plenty of options to secure your vines with tapes, ties, or clips.
I also put solar lights on mine because I work weird hours and can check on everything at night if needed.
My experience of best results in a long California summer with indeterminate is - 2 main stems, leave each sucker develop one bloom and then cut above it.
Also - end of June I let root the sucker in the water and plant a new tomatoes plants.
Some of my second crop ( mostly cherries) I can harvest even through the winter and next year.
Not Canadian but Alaskan. And this was very helpful since our climates are so similar and everyone down south has such long growing seasons! Their tips just aren't the same.
I live in Florida and still find your info very useful, much of it i just convert over to our shoukder seasons here and even winter gardening (Central FL so usually pots for the winter "crops"
i love the fact that you're looking at all these studies and finding truths to share with us!
One thing I've done before when I had several tomatoes that weren't ripe before we were about to get frost, was cutting the plant at the base, and hanging it upside down in a garage. The tomatoes took a while but they did ripen from what I remember!
12:48 This point makes me wonder if the timing of pruning would matter. Like should you allow the plant to grow unpruned until it begins to flower or just prune from the start? Great info. There's always so much to learn about growing tomatoes.
EDIT: I'm in US zone 9a so temps/growing season isn't an issue. Obviously like you said, cold climate growers have different rules.
You’d prune a week before flower. Idk it works well with weed
Even in Canada 🇨🇦 it can be worthwhile growing suckers, at least for cherry tomatoes. Had a great crop of midnight snack cherry tomatoes from two sucker plants last year.
I did it 5 years ago. It was a last week of August and it's getting cold. All of my tomato fruits were still green. I cut off the top and the plant shoot lots of suckers, removed all suckers and after 2 weeks my tomatoes started to turn red. I have been doing the same procedure since then. 😊😊
Nice video and basically what I do when pruning tomatoes. Regardless of what I do below, the plant eventually has the lower 8-10 inches of leaves removed. I like double stemming indeterminates, except cherry tomatoes. Its a trade off between size of fruit and number of fruit. With double stemming you dont lose much size and get more tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes I start off double stemming removing all the suckers below the second stem (usually about a foot up), then let them go wild. Determinates are basically left to go wild in sturdy tomato cages.
Do you remove the bottoms for air flow
@@GardeningInCanada Yes and to prevent soil splashing up on the plant during watering to avoid issues.
I don't just remove suckers from plants I remove no good suckas from my life 😎😎😎
LMFAO oh this is gold.
What about cherry tomatoes? They mature faster than the large varieties. I use them for everything. I grow them in SE Texas because our season is cut short by heat. Unlike the larger tomatoes, these guys just slow down flowering when it’s super hot and then fully recover when the temperature drops. ☺️
I topped the ones that got taller than the stakes they're weaved with this morning. Looking forward to seeing how they respond!!
So glad to have finally found someone in Canada. However, I hope you don’t mind if I make a suggestion. Near the end when you were showing us how to do the pruning, it was very difficult to see. If you could get a little closer, maybe it would be easier to figure out. Because honestly, right now I’m rather confused. But thank you so much, definitely, for doing this for us Canadians.
I weave and string (in Montreal, i think same zone as you) my family calls me the puppet master, I have strings on pretty much every branch. Plants are massive already
Ahahahah awe
I think you're the reincarnation of a Garden Goddess. 😊
I grow my tomatoes on a page wire trellis. Other than pruning the lower leaves for air flow, I simply tie everything to the trellis - I kept track of varieties and weight harvested and the average size of tomato - I was happy. Another person read my information and commented that she prunes and although her average tomato size was larger, I had a higher yield per plant or it was similar. I am growing for yield and not size. Good video.
I experimented with topping seedlings this spring. It worked very well and set back growth about 3 weeks. Next year I will start a selection of seeds 3 weeks before normal and have some true double leader tomatoes ready at transplant time. I will then "single stem" prune each of the 2 leaders.
I like this advice i'm going to up my game on my San Marzano's ... and try some stuff I was so misinformed on some stuff. thx
Easy peasy. Lemon squeezy. 🎉🎉 My new love is dwarf tomatoes. If a tomato plant was a sheep dog. That's the vibe . Central Illinois ...no blite also no sun scald. They are tough mothers. Not the best harvest volume but basically bullet proof.
I have the red robins started this year. I am
Pretty excited to see how they turn out. I want to grow these guys indoors
Let us know if you grow them and how they do!
Thank u for sharing all u know with us ! It means a lot ! ❤
Ooooh, thank you. I was pruning out the bottom few suckers and contemplating doing the rest of them, and it just felt wrong. This helps.
I have never pruned a single tomato in my life lol. I do mulch the roots heavy and keep them up off the ground. 800 pounds last year!
Southern Ontario tomato season can be fairly long. You can plant out mid-May if the forecast looks good, and the plants can keep going into October, sometimes even November in the warmest zones. Since the summers aren't that hot, typically in the mid-high 20s rather than 30-35C+, it means the plants get less stressed and less disease issues than in the southern US and as a result often last longer, so we can get 2-3 months of vine ripe harvesting, maybe even close to 4 months in Zone 6-7 for single-stemmed cherry tomatoes transplanted at 2ft tall. That means un-topped tomatoes can get quite big, I've had a beef steak tomato reach 10ft, and cherry tomatoes reach 13ft, despite leaving several suckers on the beefsteak, and dozens of suckers on the cherry tomato.
That means even with puppeteering you'd have to lower the plants quite a lot, especially cherry tomatoes. I haven't tried that method yet, I might give it a go for beefsteak/slicer tomatoes, but for cherry tomatoes my preference remains growing them up, then sideways along a fence line or cattle panel arch.
James Prigioni uses a method where he lets suckers produce flowers and then he cuts the growth after the flowers off. I haven't tried it, but I thought it was interesting.
That’s pretty neat!
Good advice for a novice like me😊 Thanks Cheers
Glad to help
Every time someone pinches off a sucker i scream inside. I struggled for years with inadequate soil volume and nitrogen and moisture stability so incomplete sets etc BUT this year i have last years tomatoes planted into deeper soils with lots of rotting woods over stinky big fisheads set into sheltered positions uplight of shrubs and canna lillies etc so....even the Roma came right through winter and is producing big fruits in full sets. Roma in a cage the indeterminates on strings. Second year Romas are super fleshy.
Canada "you don't have to listen to anything I tell you todo"
USA "If you want the highest yield this is the only way to get it"
😅
But as an American I have to say “You can’t tell me what to do.” I have an unpopular opinion when it comes to pruning tomatoes. I leave the suckers because they’re gonna produce fruits. I prune the leaf branches that touch the ground.
I don’t even listen to myself most days
Americans do what we want regardless
Great video ! I leave the suckers cuz it helps to hide the tomatoes from the critters and protect from sun damage. I think I will try topping
Thanks for such good info Ashley!
I tried the puppeteer method after watching Charles Dowding do it a few years ago and several of my tomatoes broke. I didn't take into account that he was doing it in a greenhouse, and my area is super windy. Even though the plants were wrapped around the string, they'd unravel with the wind! The next year I invested in cattle panels and haven't looked back since lol
Have you tried using the clips with the puppeteer? I bought clips from Walmart made by Burpee. They look like a tiny clamp has a small nose like for the strip. I don't like the circle shaped ones they're only good for 1 year maybe 2. These seem like they'll hold up longer. I bought 1 plant from a nursery they used plastic tape like stapled the ends. I'm also going to try twine loosely tied that I can clip off if needed. It's very windy here haven't had any snap with the Burpee clips.
@@Babs-Veterans-are-Family I haven't tried the Burpee clips, not sure if I've seen them here in Canada. I have the circle clips and also tried foam wires. They didn't all break, but a few of them did, and the movement of the stem from pivoting in the wind seemed to weaken the others. I needed to really secure them somehow and I think I'm just an a place that needs a little extra sturdy support. We have gotten winds over 110 km/hr!
Question 🙋🏻 I need use grow bags (vary in size from 20-30 gallon) and the trellis method like in the video. In the past, I’d do one tomato per bag and let one or two suckers go. This year I thought I could jump start my harvest by just putting 2-3 plants per bag and doing a single stem. Do you think I could get away with two stems per plant if they’re that closely planted 🤔 Thanks 🙏🏼
Hey there, Ashley! Thanks for the info and ideas! This year I decided to experimentally grow mountain magic, sun gold cherry and super sweet 100 so we can compare. All indeterminate I believe so this should be fun 😊
I thought San Marzano was indeterminate type of tomato plant!
I've been growing it this summer and guess what, I've been removing suckers, which I think impacted the yield as the plant was way less compact and the production of fruit was concentrated in terms of height!
Especially in my case where I'm growing in the balcony and I don't have the chance to let the plant expand too much in height!
Thanks girl. Great info as always!
You are so welcome!
I didn't understand completely. Need to review it. Thanks!
The plant variety/height chart you showed at the beginning of the video. Would you mind sharing a link please.
Leaving suckers on means you require more space per plant though. Do you know if there's a difference in production per square space with closely spaced single stemmed vs widely spaced unpruned?
Very informative video as usual.
However, several times in the video, you used San Marzano tomatoes as an example of determinate tomatoes. I realize that more than one variety of tomatoes is referred to as San Marzano, but any that I can find after a quick search are listed as indeterminate. I certainly hope that ones I planted in my new high tunnel are indeterminate because I have kept them pruned to one leader.
I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
If your packaging is indeterminate it’s likely correct. Like that list I showed had beefsteak listed as determinate and that’s pretty rare imo
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP! do a video on pseudomanas corrugata and pith necrosis! Somehow my tomatoes caught it and I need help before I completely lose every single one of mine! Black rot and co hollowed out stems! I need some guidance on how to combat it or prevent it!
From Westfield NY. Just found your site.
Love it!!!
Not sure if you meant San Marzono or if there's another variety called San Marizino? I couldn't find a Marizino. The Marzono variety are indeterminate tomatoes. I have a pack of seeds says right on the package as well as Google.
I like your content. Gardening is an ever growing science experiment ;)
Do you have anything on electro culture ? I’d like to hear your tought and maybe observation about it.
From my research(wikipedia deep) San Marzano is indeterminate and Romas are the determinate hybrid derived from them!
You can get determinate and indeterminate yes. Beefstake is another one that has both for example
Just discovered your channel and learned loads, thank you so much!
Do you have any experience with multifloral tomatoes? I’ve got some growing now and not been able to find a huge amount of information on them.
I have some determinate (Manitoba) tomatoes on my balcony. I didn't think they would survive (I didn't have the best lighting conditions when they were seedlings), but since I grew them from seed, I didn't want to toss them either. Now they are growing like weeds, and about 3+ feet tall, but only just getting flowers at the top of the plant. Will leaving all the suckers grow tomatoes further down on the plant? I've never had a tomato plant fail to put out flowers as it was growing like these ones. I haven't done any pruning, except the very bottom branches near the soil.
Those Manitobas are tough little buggers.
Would a plant that has more flowers hypothetically require more nutrient rich soil? Would plant density be a worry? (More spacing compared to an unprinted)
"We are the outcasts of the gardening community" ... Perfect! This is where the real answers hang out. Regenerative Agriculture? Lofthouse Landrace? Fukuoka One Straw Revolution? Let's see some more!
I have been almost daily pruning my plants. However, there are some I miss every day my Better Boys are hard to keep from branching out. I have plenty of them because I have been pruning but they growing out of control. How can I here in zone 6A slow them suckers down.
That’s a good problem to have lol. Do you use a fertilizer high in nitrogen?
I have miracle gro liquid fertilizer every week or two. But when I started to transplant them I used a microbe nutrient and Dolomites Lime at the bottom before covering them.
@@GardeningInCanada I used liquid fertilizer every other week depending on the weather and when transplanting I use a microbe booster and Dolomites lime at the bottom of the plant and bone meal around the top of the plant and work it into the soil. I did this on all my transplants.
awesome and great information like always
thanks 🙂🌻
You are so welcome! 🙏
My O/S tomatoes only just started flowering, with only 5 weeks till winter should I prune them at the soil mark?? East of London!
5 weeks till winter? Is this a typo? Summer hasn’t even officially started?
@@AustinandJax Neither did spring start here!
Hey thanks for this
Any time!
If you have deer or dogs that chase rabbits the Florida weave is a disaster. They run through and drag away the whole garden in tangled mess. So much maintenance stringing them routinely.
I don't like bush so I prune suckers plus 10 plants in a 4x8 need pruning
Berkshires MA, thank you!
❤️👩🔬
GIC new channel pic looking fire! 😊❤
Thank you.
Okay, I didn't plant deep, they look good, but I put them in a new bed with 'filler' in the bottom and it sunk down...lol...so can I top up the soil or should I wait till the end of the growing season? Or wait till the end of July (I'm in Manitoba, zone 3)?
Hi from the Manitoba Interlake !
Is there anything that you can recommend to use as trellising? (Other than cattle panels)
Tight on budget
Bambo stakes I find to be inexpensive. That or puppeteering with 2x4s I have a video on that.
I use Peak 6-inch x 3.5 ft. x 7 ft. Galvanized Steel Wire Mesh (9-Gauge) from Home Depot. In Canada they cost $22.74 plus tax per unit.
I have them attached to T posts vertically.
Why do my san marzano seeds say they are indeterminate on the packet 😭😭😭 they're already like four feet tall and ive pruned then to heck
It’s possible! If it says indeterminate I would take the package description.
I thought San marzano is indeterminate 🤔
I’m loving you videos!! I love the great info!!!
Same! I got them specifically because I am more familiar with indeterminate trellising. Guess we'll find out!
San Marzano tomatoes... No "I"
I watched one UA-cam video that said cherry tomatoes, even indeterminate ones, should be left unpruned, except for low leaves and maybe late season topping. Is there any science supporting that, or anyone that’s tried it both ways?
I really don't prune my tomatoes. They grow on a cattle panel trellis. I'm in Norhern USA (Ohio).
topping never works for me always the sucker node next to the cut always takes dominance over the other sucker nodes.
My San marzano seed package says that they're indeterminate. I've been removing all suckers except for one. Should I be leaving them? I spaced my tomatoes only a foot apart, so I think I've kinda dug my own grave regardless.
I feel like sometimes the companies make mistakes. Try half unpruned half pruned
@GardeningInCanada mine also say that and from my experiences it holds true, I ended up with some huge viney 10 foot beasts last year
I'll see what I can do, thanks for the zippy response! Go figure I was out yesterday pruning... lol
@@joeyturbo11 San Marzano tomatoes are indeterminate. Feed them lots of organic hen manure and they will grow robust and produce well.
I grew them last year and I would call them a dwarf indeterminate. I live in the Minneapolis, Minnesota area and by years end they were close to 5 feet tall.
I feed them a higher phosphorus and potassium fertilizer so they don't grow a lot of foliage. I do hit them up with some calcium nitrate on occasion as I grow everything in containers.
The challenge is trellising them as they grow bushy like a determinate as I lightly prune suckers so there is airflow and so we can see when tomatoes are ready before the mice get to them.
I also don't have all day full sun. I only get full sun between 9 am to about 4pm. So if I had full day sun, they probably would grow longer.
I gave up on pruning tomatoes except near soil.
That's the most important pruning anyway. 😉
Did you say san marzano is determinate? 🤔 My san marzano pkg says indeterminate
I would believe the seed company but I’ve mostly seen them as determinate. Maybe do 50/50 www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds
I noticed that too, I've grown them for years and the ones I grow are definiteley indeterminate. Maybe there's a variety out there that are determinate?
@@mgguygardening They are indeterminate. I grow them as well.
Fungus = singular = hard “g” sound.
Fungi = plural = soft “g” sound = (same as the letter “j”)
What do you mean "top the tomato”?
HELP, celebrity plus is it simi inditerminate or simi derminate? I've read both.
... gardening heretics.... outcasts... You are sweet talking us!💚
I try ahahah
Seriously just take off the extra leaves that yellow and get dense towards the base 😅. Pruned.
Now I want a “garden heretic” t-shirt!
AHAHAH our entire wardrobe is going to be garden shirts 😅
My peunning method depends on the plant and nutritional program. For cherries, im more inclined to keep a lot more suckers. Usually with proper nutrient management, they can have way more suckers, like 5-8. The key imo is keeping the plant pruned so that the tops of these leaders have light because that keeps them growing and blooming and have energy. If you give them lots of P and K and tte micronutrients, then really they can keep producing.
For larger tomatoes, i prefer to let a single stem Y out with a vigorous sucker and then keep it to two stems. Reason is with proper nutrients, rhe plants produce well, good size ideally, and the fruit quality isnt sacrificed. If you have truly large tomatoes, having 3-4 stems may reduce their size, delay ripening, quality, etc.
The key to pronouncing “determinate” correctly, lies in breaking the word down into its correct syllables.
= De-ter-mi-nate There’s only one “N” 👍
❤ this one lol
❤️👩🔬
💚💚
❤️❤️❤️
Counterpoint, what if I'm the kind of dumbass who got confused and has no idea which plant is which type of tomato and is just flying by the seat of my pants while weaving them ALL up a trellis? 😎🍅🤦🏻♀️
Then, just prune off the lower branches & enough of the others to allow for good ventilation and a plant that's not so crazy you can't find the tomatoes! 🍅
I too only get so far along while keeping my labelling accurate lol
"The Geek Crew is smarter than me". It takes a village. 😉
And someone must be very smart to be ready to recognize the value of what others bring to the table and acknowledge when someone is doing it better!❤
Haha that is VERY accurate. You guys are so creative with your setups. I even use your tips.
yes, it is time to use the brain, that thing that helps u figure out things and it is inside ones head...
😉😉
San Marzano' tomato plants are indeterminate! Shocking mistake!
You can most definitely buy determinates www.trueleafmarket.com/products/tomato-san-marzano-determinate-seeds
You can even get beefsteaks that are determinate. Always follow the package or the tag.
@@GardeningInCanada Almost 40 years of growing San Marzano and have never even heard of such a thing as a determinate S. Marzano. Learn something new everyday!
Why all professionals do prune they tomatoes? Are they all crazy? 😮
More uniform and tidy plants. An unpruned tomato plant can take up a lot of crazy space
@@DebRoo11 The greenhouse growers have them wound up wires and it makes it easier to pick. Farmers leave them to sprawl on the ground. It's only home gardeners that use supports because we have limited space and want to grow more than just tomatoes. Plus tomatoes near the ground get eaten by voles. Late in the season the squirrels get at them so I pick them green and pickle them. Not the squirrels, the tomatoes.
@@gabriellakadar mmm pickled squirrels 😂
My brother in law and best friends parents had tomato greenhouses for market. They do train them up for sure. Also prune. They always had lota of maters on each. 🤜🏼 🐿 Those critters in the garden sure love feasting off someone else's hard work
Best way to extend your growing season ......MOVE AWAY FROM CANADA
I will not argue that
@@GardeningInCanada listen here gingersnaps this is called trolling it would please your viewing audience.... Well maybe just me ... if you'd be less agreeable and charming and troll me back 😂😂😂
Never!
SAN marzano are indeterminate
15 minutes of blah blah blah 10 seconds of actually showing the principle 😢
Rude
@@Cookies-i2f am I wrong?