Paige Claassen - Athlete Spotlight "To Bolt or Not to Be"
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- Опубліковано 14 кві 2013
- La Sportiva presents Paige Claasen in Smith Rock. Follow Paige as she journeys to one of the birthplaces of sport climbing in the US and tackles some of the classic testpieces of the area, namely To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a).
Big thanks to Louder Than 11 for producing this great footage. - Спорт
I misstated that Smith Rock is the birthplace of climbing in America. Obviously this is not true, as climbing traces back much further than Smith Rock's hay day in the 80s, namely, to Yosemite. My statement was incorrect. Smith Rock was a key piece in the development of American sport climbing. Alan Watts began bolting sport routes in the early 80s. A few years later Churning in the Wake was equipped with a power drill. I in no way meant to offend the efforts of those developing decades before.
It's 2019. Do you still climb today?
This is an excellent place to climb, all levels.. Beautiful scenery and local for me which makes it all that much more special. Great video, very inspirational to see a young person so good at what she does.
First place I every climbed outside as an 11 year old doing my first sport lead on Dancer. I used to look up at To Bolt and just be mesmerized. Now as a 30 year old, this video brings back all the best memories. Nice work.
What gets me is in less then a minute into the video Paige says that Smith Rocks is the birthplace of American climbing, maybe the birthplace of sport climbing in the US but Yosemite, the east coast areas like the Gunks, Cathedral Ledge aka Trad areas. To me being a climber is learning the history which plays into a lot of the comments on her climbing that trad route.
Peter Dorsa
I read somewhere that she apologized for saying that-- she mispoke. She meant to say the birth of sport climbing in America.
Smith the birthplace of climbing in America? She needs to read a book.
She misspoke. It happens. She probably meant to say “sport climbing”. Oh, and nobody cares about what “being a climber” means to you. You’re irrelevant.
Great video! Love this kind of climbing! Gotta try that one someday!
Check out my last upload to see me working this small project in Maine with similar style climbing!😉♥️🧗♂️
Amazing effort Paige, GG!
I would love to see the footage of those 47 minutes (unedited, I mean) of her making the redpoint.
Well done, great video and better climbing!
best lt11 video to date?!?
Looking back at this after "Silence", I really hope more route-specific movies follow Ondra's format in the movie. Not necessarily in the story-aspect, but I really like watching the climb being done with as little jump-cuts and bouncy music as possible
dude, this clip is from 2013...... Ondra's is like 17-18
bautiful route
GO GIRL. True Champion.
Inspiring.
Does anyone know the brand of her blue and green harness and chalk bag?
inspiring
The song at 6:04 is so dope! Inspiring! Thank you.
I agree with Bryan. Smith rocks, you rock! now send "Just do it"
Did you ever send the Bleeding?
nice good work
it's a CAMP supernova harness , the chalkbag iit's the CAMP acqualong
Submerse - Fall in Love
Multipitch trad with Kate Rutherford. What a blast
Some quality gash right there
zhaneranger Wanted to know that too. It's called Fall in Love by Submerse. soundcloud.com/austejam/submerse-fall-in-love
whats the song at 6.07?
Forgive me a stupid question - but what is wrong with having a top-rope?
nothing.
Sometimes it's really hard to get enough rope to the top of a tall mountain like that
first think then comment
So Ondra onsighted two 5.14c's within one hour of each other, at Red Rocks I believe. I would like to see if he could onsight Just do it (5.14c) because it requires more technique than brute strength, I dont doubt he could, just would like him to see him try it.
6 year old comment, but he did end up doing it!
Inspires me :) Bryan from Bend OR
what is zebra zion????
"I know nothing except how to clip bolts" Lol Paige
the routs not called zebra zion its just zion and its 5.10
So where was the birth place of climbing then? From a Smith Rock climber.
song at 2:13 please?
I live in Oregon only 2 1-2 hours away from smith rock!
When I listen to it Paige says: Smith is such a historic site for climbing, its basically the birthplace of climbing in America". Maybe you can listen again and tell me if I'm not hearing things. I guess she probably means sport climbing as she clearly has never thought about trad climbing much before but I still think its funny that she says its the birthplace of climbing in America.
8:57 arent you supposed to clip the biners in opposite directions?
This route is exactly like Barbecue the Pope but four number grades harder.
Very talented climber. That said, learning to trad climb by starting with a 5.7 when "all you know how to do is clip bolts" is not a good or safe idea in my opinion, no matter how good a climber you are. You should start with something so easy there's almost no chance of falling, like a 5.5 or maybe a 5.6, and let an experienced climber follow you and inspect all your placements. Even before that you should be learning about placements and anchors and practicing placing pro on the ground.
I'm sure plenty of climbers learn this way, maybe that's why so many people have terrible nut placements, use cams improperly and in horizontals, can't place or clean a tricam properly if their life depended on it, and don't know the importance of extending all placements with quickdraws/trad draws...
123324ben I get what you're saying, but no matter how easy the climb is, if it requires protection, it requires protection, and you're not going to instantly learn all that while you're placing gear on the side of a cliff, with no one there to help you. Physical ability and skill, no matter how impressive, is completely independent of knowledge. There are plenty of badass climbers who climb harder than I ever will, who don't know how to belay properly and couldn't make a good nut placement if their life depended on it..
Also I lead 5.10 in the gym, sometimes 5.11, but their are some 5.5 trad routes that made me want to shit my pants.. Trad is entirely different experience..
5.9 isn't even a warm up if you're climbing 5.14 though
i just fall in love :* nice climb
What is the song at 6:45?
Ufo em 2:37.
Dat pink point
You mean like every single hard route done these days?
only tied to clip bolts ever is luxury
Had to watch this with the audio off. God awful music at the end. Great climbing \m/
Oh come on...smh...
I watch climbing videos all the time for psyche. Even though some of the musical selections the climber/videographer selected do not match my musical taste I have never felt the need to mute the sound. You come across like some fussy persnickety boor.
I'm going to download the song played during the send and blast my bluetooth next time I'm out...thanks Paige and Jon Glassberg for the inspirational video.
the birthplace of climbing in America?
She made a mistake. She said in an interview that she knows it's not the birthplace of American climbing. She meant American sport climbing.
Duncan Rover
ah, that makes much more sense. Thanks Duncan.
Smithrock is the birthplace of SPORT climbing in North America. REAL climbing was already at full swing at that time and had been for decades.
Eric Thompson real climbing can kiss my ass
@@EKdlwoasred You mean kick your ass red coat punter.
Eric Thompson you’re my idol! Such bravery 😘
She is cute and seems very down to earth. The world could use more people/girls like her!
Darling, considering climbing with a helmet?
"Birthplace of climbing in America". Maybe they should give these sport climbers a basic orientation package or something. Sport climbing wasn't new, New climbers don't seem to get this. Plenty of folks sport climbed, just like most golfers take a mulligan or two. The only thing that happened back then was the climbing moved on from say a Yosemite type ethic (born on public property in a national treasure type place) to what most climbers did all along. The cliff I started on was pretty serious, but only about 65 feet tall, in many places (groundfall potential everywhere). They had lots of bolts, because it was in a park and theiy didn't want people to get killed for that reason alone, and to keep the area open. On any Saturday, probably half the routes were on top rope. The big ethical issues (that we all had hot opinions on) just affected the two or three guys who were putting routes up that made it into Mountain magazine. Yosemite was always a bubble, they had their own style, and lots of good climbers.
Where I started out, there was only really one of two dominant climbers at any one time. There wasn't any competition for new routes, he put them all up, and a few other guys. Nobody cared how he did it, they just became new routes we could all do when we raised our games. In our case he was a great climber from Austria who soloed at a level most of us could only dream of leading, but nobody really cared how he did it on new routes.
What people forget is that in the mountains you weren't going to die over style, and on the crags, at the time, it was mostly prep for going into the mountains. Taking a rest on a rope was something you did all the time. Now people espoused the clean style,. Of ocurse we believed fervently in no hang dogging, and using clean gear, and so forth, That was aspirational, but as to the mechanics of brute forcing a route, or practising, there was nothing new about sport climbing.
For that mater, Yosemite was in some cases a sport climbing paradise, you had some fixed gear on aid routes so you could climb them in better style by just clipping, a victory on technical and style grounds, and of course it is a place with abundant cracks that protect like giant clip ups, compared to running it out on hairline limestone. There are terrifying things in Yosemite, for those who want them. But when they were talking the talk on clean ground up ascents, they were climbing in a place where there were an abundance of the easiest to protect, safest routes in the world. And then along came Friends.
As far as learning how to lead on gear I think it is wrong to say if you can climb 5.1X you aren't ready. She may be un-mechanical enough not to be let out alone, but in the real days, we did all that stuff without anyone in the world leading at whatever level she leads. She should be able to free solo 5.7 like it isn't there. The real issue is whether the pro on a particular route is super hard to rig, and very important, should you fall, what will you hit on the way down. Often 5.0 climbs protect very differently that 5.7 (say lots of slings on big flakes, or trees, bad rope lines, just as upper 5.1X routes are often very different from say 5.11, But what you don't want is in the case that you rip off something, you bounce from ledge to ledge on the way down. If you have a clue you should be safer on a hard route, that is none the less, like 7 grades within your grade level. We had a pretty competitive club back in the 70s, but most of the climbers weren't working with 7 grades, let alone 15. There are some darn terrifying 5.7s out there, particularly if that is your max.
Ugh. When she said that, I said to myself, somebody in the comments is gonna have a conniption. And here you are!
Birthplace of climbing in america? Heard of Yosemite? Sport climbing though, maybe. Watch your generalizations
"Smith Rock is basically the birthplace of climbing in America"
I'm sorry but have you ever heard of Yosemite? I'm pretty sure that place has had a bigger influence on American climbing
Olivier Clarke zozziemite
Hey Paige wanna date?
get a life
It was three(3) years ago lol Why don't you grow up?
I wonder how much the world she knows to say favorite place in the world.. ahh yankees!
Wow the grades at smith rock look pretty soft. If you like thin edgy climbing you should climb in southern california, we've got plenty of thin granite edges. And lots of 11's and 12's that will probably shut you down. I should tell my buddies about Smith Rock.
***** coming from NC, I found them soft and very well bolted.
I think alot of routes take length into consideration as a huge factor. To Bolt or Not to Be is like 130 feet or something. Having plenty of bolts is nice too. It's clear that this was graded with a modernist perspective. coming from a french background, where it is artificially progressive, and handled with such a lazy gym mentality - the rap chains aren't even at the true top out. The southwest is virtually the climbing jewel of the united states, and because most of it is protected by national parks, the development/bolting of sport climbing was outlawed, so we have europeans picking up the scraps that nobody wanted in the 70s, the southwest has harder, more sustained, more runout and scarier climbs than Smith Rock, and they're referred to as twelves and occasional thirteens, and you realize when trying to climb in these places you are walking in the stomping grounds of giants.
shame when climbers are so good and all they have done is clip bolts, don't know how to make anchors, etc. call me old fashion but I find it kind of strange no? or is this where the future of climbing is because of climbing gyms ?
I don't understand how someone can get to such a high level of sport climbing, but needs a demonstration of how to tie an overhand knot in a sling for a trad anchor...
+Vince Buffalini its because most sport routes are mostly single pitch so its not common knowledge for most sport climbers
+Alex Godard yeah I understand that... I guess what is curious to me is how you become a 5.14 climber, and never even scratch the surface of trad climbing, even on the most basic level... in which you would learn to build an anchor, which is pretty much day one climbing knowledge.
the thing is, if you watch most professional sport climbers all they do when they send the route is lower down so I guess they never learned it
Also, it depends on your geographic location... I live on a small island in Spain and we mostly sport climb because the limestone here isnt very good for trad climbing, in fact most of the routes I climb probably wouldnt be able to be climbed on natural pro without it being extremely dangerous.
But I realize thats not the case with this climber who is actually American.
Think also that there is a whole generation of climbers now that start on plastic and then go out to clip bolts on single pitches. The only knot you really need to know is how to tie an 8 in that situation.
Vince Buffalini why are trad climbers so high minded. Just fuck off
Hard to believe you could grow up in Estes Park, home to some of the best climbing (trad) in the country and never learn to place gear? And Smith Rock as the home of climbing, that's just silly. Only if rock climbing started in the 1980's...
Time to go back to (climbing) school and learn a bit about this sport which started in the 1800's.
Bad music.
Heaviest use of vocal fry of any climber alive... I couldn't get through her Training Beta Podcast because of the frogs in her throat
Every time I see a strong climber clip into and lower off of fixed gear I die inside. No matter if you climb 5.5 or 5.15. Don't lower off of fixed gear. Rappel. Ethics people
Jake Schmitz I think that it depends on local ethic and culture. Never been to smith rock but at some areas, the developers and bolters prefer people to just lower off the fixed gear since they may have plans to switch out fixed anchors every so often anyways. It just depends on locations.
Jake Schmitz That's why the snapgates are there, they're not attatched to the fixed gear they have been put there by the climbers so they don't wear the lower off.
Jake Schmitz
Certainly don't burn on fixed chains, but those are replaceable. I'm sure there is a gear fund and a local scene that takes care of it like at any other crag. You are right though, it's good to ask the local peeps what's up and not just to assume.
+Jake Schmitz
It's definitely a local-specific ethos. Those are steel carabiners on the ends of the chains, similar to any gym anchors. You probably don't insist that people rap from the top of gym routes.
Anything that is obviously not meant to be easily replaced or deliberately durable, I entirely agree, the ethic everywhere is to make as little impact on the stone and the hardware as possible.
you need a male belayer