Adam Ondra #62: Forgotten Project In Smith Rock
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 кві 2020
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
This episode is about big and famous climbing area Smith Rock in Oregon, USA, and its small and almost unknown project that I set my focus on the very last day of our trip in autumn 2018. Check the episode to see how it went.
Thumbnail picture by: Bernardo Giménez
Credits:
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Camera
MARTIN KAŇŮREK
BERNARDO GIMÉNEZ
PAVEL KLEMENT
MARCIA VOLK / SmithRock.com
Archive Stills
MIKE VOLK / SmithRock.com
Edited by
ADAM LIGOCKI
LACO KORBEL
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Subs by
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© 2020 AO Production s.r.o.
#rockclimbing #climbingproject #smithrock #usa #oregon - Спорт
so blessed for these videos! not a lot of sports can say that their best athlete is giving insight to his mindset!
Strongman ;-)
It’s all good. He just made that project LEGENDARY!!! Every young, powerful kid in the area will obsess over sending the climb that Adam couldn’t do.
Anyone has an idea if its been freed? Or still not?
@@alexbarcovsky4319 that's the problem, if only half of us had the money to get there to try it.
I LOVE Adams' never quit attitude. One of the many things that make him the best.
How is no one talking about how Adam said that the routes bolted by Alan Watts could potentially be 9c. Thats coming from Adam!!
Love the comparison of footage from attempts side by side.
Spoiler: Adam made a video about a climb where he went 3 meters up and fell off... 8 times. And still it's a good video.
To me I admire him for showing his failures and let’s us know it’s ok .
I always enjoy mondays. It's new Magnus's video, then Ondra's.
Other way around for me haha :D
Thanks for releasing content during these times...
Loved it. Thanks.
i really like this multiple attempts footage. it gives a real insight and is fun to watch.
awesome to see some failure too!
This makes the sends so much more valuable, great attitute adam and awesome series!
Thank you for the in depth explanation of the process. It was a great video
Thx for your fast production🙂
Relly nice video Adam! It really shows a glimpse of how much effort that goes into your climbing.
Excellentes, ces vidéos "confinées" (au moins il y a des côtés positifs)! On a l'impression de batailler soi-même avec la voie.
Really awesome stuff
Good work Adam..your keeping me inspired..😁😁👍💪
Gorgeous place! I wanna go there some day ....
Thank you Adam it’s so refreshing to see an honest video . Some night only show the last climb when they succeeded . As you know few successes don’t require failure as learning .
Great storytelling! Loving the content during lockdown
You mean videos
Adame, díky moc! Nejsem lezec a tvůj sport sleduju spíš jen proto, že lezl můj táta. Ale tahle videa jsou úžasný nakopávák, který ukazuje, jak lze dosáhnout cílů, i když je to velmi obtížné a vyžaduje to několik pokusů. Ještě jednou dík za super motivačku!
Great reflexion , fantastic vídeo
Really loved the split screens.
“You need a lot of endurance, you need to stay confident and calm” Ok so you’re telling me don’t go
These videos keep me sane...
wow these wonderful colours with the sun on the rock!
So good!
Držím palce, chlape. Ty na to máš! 💛💪 Rád tě sleduji
I really liked the side by side edit to see the different attempts together
Amazing content! Thanks for keeping it coming!
You mean videos
@@skip1860 I meant content
@@Bobbzorzen there videos
somehow satisfying to see a video on an unfinished project, which shows Adam is not afraid to show these situations as well (which are a fact of life). Pretty sure he will make the climb if he ever returns
Only Adam can find a knee-bar at Smith.
Fun fact: the corner to the left on the Awl is a 10c first climbed by Bill Ramsey in 1961, making it one of the hardest routes in the U.S. at the time.
10c?! Is it a polished marble slab?
@@Ravenblues American 10c, French 6b
@@ktearley Lol even many Americans that I know don't use the Yosemite scale hence the confusion.
You missed the 5. In the front 🤣 it took me a sec to realize you meant 5.10c
@@Ravenblues not in murica they dont...
Most beautiful place on earth. If you've never been there, it's a must see. We had a trip planned for Apr.27th but will have to now wait. We have hiked there at least 25 times over the years but have never seen a rattlesnake, so be careful!
I live near smith rock, I hike there a lot and the view is always amazing
This is where I was born and raised! I love central oregon!
"It is harder than it looks." - Really?! It looks impossible!
ha ha great comment... yeah it really does.
What a beautiful line that one
Loved the video! Beautiful insights.
Can you make a video on how you have been training during quarantine? I think it would be extremely interesting and informative!
I love smith rock. I live 40 minutes away from it, too bad its closed right now
Closed down because of the virus I assume. I guess they don't trust people to follow social distancing. What could be more refreshing and healthy than a nice walk in the park away from everyone else.
Imagine closing nature... what a messed up world we live in
Atleast with what I've felt with so far, some people over here are not social distancing well. It's a shame, I would love to go
I love it ,i am from 🇮🇩
Impossível não vibrar com ele quando ele finaliza a via.
On your next trip to America, check out The Black Hills in South Dakota
Just got into serious climbing and this man and Magnus are encyclopedias
I grew up around smith rock, had no idea the legend it was, really wish I coulda met a climber then, I'm 34 about to start. Now I live in Virginia.......
Wow. Oregon gets a win.
i live about an hour from here, a wonderful spot and i have never even rock climbed!
Great episode. I wouldn't say now or never. Hope you make it back there to send that route in better conditions. Just a matter of time.
As we say in Northern Ireland, you seem like a very decent spud! Very talented also. You will be a great teacher some day.
A verry humble way to say he is the best climber in the world 😂
Really cool 😎 similar to our FRANKENJURA 😉 but a little big bigger 😂 best greetings from Oberfranken/Bavaria
Nothing to do with the climb, but whats up with the moving blured part of the image throughout the beggining of the video? Curious about it, since if it was a sensor with dust or something , it wouldnt look like that. Thanks for another beautiful video.
love the side by side for the attempts, not a massive fan of the white transition screen thought... regardless love these vids
Wow. Those quarantine videos are simply amazing!! Almost wishing the virus stays longer :p
"Very finger-ey and pump-ey"
My oh my.
Adam falls unexpectedly:
"REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE"
Adam ascends:
"REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE"
I got to spend about four or five days here back in 2008 I only did 1 route rock climbing just to kind of try it out and I will say that it is way harder than it actually looks and it looks hard so yeah.
On sites an 8C+, what an absolute unit
What the hell! I can't see any handles.
STUNNING!!!
4 :16 this belayer issss reallllyyyyyy goooodddd
Dunno about that, he drops the brake side of the rope about 15s later..and makes other mistakes too, too much slack at 3:42, probable thumb blocking the cam, hope he's not Adam's regular belayer.
@@sherwoac The belayer is Adam's manager Pavel Blažek. He belays him from time to time. However Adam's main belayer is the world's best belayer Iva Vejmolová. You can see more in that in other Adam's recent video: ua-cam.com/video/BVEcdU_qoFw/v-deo.html
sherwoac yeah but the belayer is really goooodddd not only becouse of one thing
Pavel Bělík i know
@@pavelbelik6174 there is no worlds best belayer the grade you belay doesn’t give you more experience
has anyone notice the scratch in the lens right cornee above??
so this is at least an O1 climb now :O
03:00 even the belayer is warming up🤣
why not show the full climb at the end? i wanted to see him make the hold
Dobrá časť by mohla byť o zraneniach prstov z lezenia :)
Say haii for indonesia 🇲🇨 @adamondra 😁
Can anyone tell me how they always get the quickdraws into the bolts before they climbed the route please ?
Probably, they rappel down from the top, clipping in the draws on the way down. If that's not an option, you can clip the draws while checking out the moves in the beginning.
At least, that's what I would do.
intro = like
"bolted most of the hardest route", bbut what he doesnt say is that lot of bold were already in place at his surprise when discovering these routes; like everywhere else. where do they come from, from when, and how
Any guesses on what grade that project is?
it says on the video 9a/5.14d?
sun hits the rock, adam hisses like a vampire.
sad smith is closed right now !!!
:)
What if Adam did some gym works too
I live in oregon
How can you not smile like an idiot when he finally succeeds and lets out that yell. Everyone around him is smiling too. I just keep repeating that little 10 second loop.
Lol "very fingery, very pumpy."
My hallway arch is probably an 8a+ really overgrade for me but if I keep projecting I might send. Leave below your improvised home climbing routes!
@3:30, look at the amount of slack from Alan belaying Adam, he would've DECKED if he fell between those two clip points...I guess Alan was paying a little too much attention to Adam's climbing and not belaying ;)
Keď raz budeš doma, prídi pozrieť Hrádok, Kamenec pod Vtáčnikom na Slovensku ...
I wish I had any kind of rock to climb on. There's genuinely no exposed rock at all within 50 miles of my house
Where do you live, Idaho?
3:33 lot of slack. Dont fall :).
Wow so funny
Hes not even clipped in
And still Adam cares about the useless second bolt.
Nice to see you here, Lutz.
didnt know alan watts was a climber
1:10 not lucky, happy
Write the damn meters on the route info. Nobody does it anymore. Not even in online guide books. The damn meters.
Why climb with shirt on?
Do a video with Magnus!!!
I wonder if Watts gave him shit for wearing a knee pad lol.
11
Smith rock scares the shit out of me. At least the moderates do.
I really like your commentary on the climbing. Yet is does most of the time spoil/reveal the outcome of the climb before it finishes and thereby making a bit less exciting. For example you already reveal that you are going to fall off before you actually do, or you sound dissapointed so I know you are not gonna make it that try. Anyone else have that?
What did the librarian say to Tommy?
Read more...
I think he will stop climb to midle way so bored
The performance should not be the goal, on the contrary, it is a dead end voice, which leads only to its ego. Watch how judo, a defense-based discipline, turns into a sport. It is not Judo, and the "do" the way which transcends a sport in discipline disappears. This is how we pervert things. Climbing aimlessly other than succeeding is a waste of time.
La performance ne doit pas etre le but, au contraire, c'est une voix sans issue, qui ne mène qu'à son ego. Regardez comment le judo, une discipline basé sur la défense, qui se transforme en sport. Ce n'est plus du Judo, et le "do" la voie qui transcende un sport en discipline disparaît. Voilà comment on pervertit les choses. La grimpe sans but autre que de réussir est une perte de temps.
What I don't get is why these guys talk like there's only one set in stone move list to be followed for each individual project.. Like if a person bolts a new route and is the first to send it, then when people ask him/her about it they tell them move by move what they did and it sounds like everyone thinks they have to then exactly copy that move list from the guy who sent it before them. That's all well and good to learn about a set of moves that ended up working out for the last guy, but just because someone did a left handed crimp on the 4th move or something it doesn't mean that you still couldn't approach each different zone of the route in your own way. At the end of the day I'd think you'd want to just study the route but then make your own personal edits and even bypass certain moves if possible, like if you were strong enough to dino straight up by 2'-3' and the guy before you couldn't do that maybe you could skip 2 entire moves that the guy before you did by creating your own shortcut of sorts. So with so many possibilities in front of each climber it just surprises me to hear someone this skilled talking about exactly mimicking previously created move lists move for move like he's got no other choice but to complete the route exactly how someone else told him he should do it... Why couldn't you just approach each climb like a fresh palate and create your own move list and your own slightly different path through the climb based on your style and preferences?