I know that's it's been a long time since you made this video, but you probably should have used some Red Loctite on those nuts holding the motor together, to keep them from falling off due to vibrations from the train going around the track...
When it comes to lubrication around the commutator, you are correct. The commutator contacts are normally meant to be kept dry, the residue that you cleaned off is just carbon build-up from sparking inherent of brush dc motors.
The couplers are actually not as difficult to replace as what you went through. You just need to press the plastic tab that functions as a spring while pulling it out. Once it's out, just push the new one in. It snaps into place. I've broken and replaced a few.
We used to use a coin laid flat on the tracks to clean them. Just moved it back and forth over the track and the sharp edges of the coin would abrade the tracks clean! We had mostly Hornby model trains here in the UK.
@@Tronicsfix running a train for a few hours straight on that old brass track will clean it up too just have to run it fast enough to not stall on the dirty bits
I don't know about electronics wise, but in video, you are superior to Vince, especially in the way you narrate and the way you film. I wound up watching your videos just by chance, and I really enjoy your attitude, your enthusiasm, your approach and your videos are 1/3 the length of most of Vince's, who I know is your buddy, but hey, someone has to be better, and it is you man.
Great repair! Regarding those truck rivets: when fixing vintage die-cast cars I've drilled rivets and then tapped the remaining rivet shaft and used small flat head screws to reassemble.
My dentist's office has a train just like this that goes around in the waiting room. I'm not sure if this is the same model or an older, but it's nice to watch a repair on a similar one.
My grandfather gave me a Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer. I was about 5. I used to sleep with the locomotive next to my head. Poor dad always had to re-solder the wires.
Why don`t use ultrasonic cleaner and then with syringe with a needle lubricate parts that must have lube on them? And also - why you did not use locktite on the bolts? It is vibrating much and can gets apart eventually...
The second locomotive in real life is a powered "B" unit. the F7A would be the unit with the cab that the engineer would ride in at the front of the train. Thanks for doing a train set! =)
the idea here is that rivets wont come loose, but the bolts locating at the part with the motor might. Had one of those myself, but produced it the soviet union) also had the problem with the motor, but wasnt able to fix it myself back in the days btw. You should get yourself a 3d printer, so you can fix plastic parts like those hooks. It will also help with some missing parts like battery covers etc.
In the future, for small rivets that are easy to drive and set, talk to an aircraft fastener supply place. Ask for solid aluminium rivets, 1100, and you can find them in a variety of lengths and a variety of small diameters.
I had that train as a kid we would put it under the Christmas tree I think my aunt got it for us I would sit and play with it for hours under the tree lol.
You are getting it clean, but a much faster way is to use a tiny bit of CRC, or WD-40 and a toothbrush. Then clean it, and use a tiny bit of vaseline to lubricate the cogs, and screws
Hi assuming the brushes are carbon then carbon is a lubricant. When you tested the bulb and condemned it,I did not see you connect a gnd wire to the metal bracket. The carriage lamps when you were cleaning the bogies (Truck) you can see a silver shiny metal strip length ways along the bogie (Truck) I assume that is the power contact to the lamps.
depending on the rivet, you could spin a metal drillbit between your fingers, i took oot rivets on servers this way, because, drilling through a mainboard is a bad bad bad idea
Great vid, I really enjoyed watching that fix. I do wonder tho as your channel is console heavy fixing that people might skip this vid, but I loved it.
Love the train! I think you fixed it well enough. My only thought would have been to paint to screw heads black so they would blend in. I doubt it matters though since it's on the bottom. Can't wait for the last video!!
The car you placed right behind the engine is in fact a second engine, just without a cab. They are called B units. Edit: I see you already know that now. Really nice train btw, really liked tyco growing up.
Screws would be rattling loose all the time plus rivets are cheaper. Machine screws back then would have been expensive to manufacture, rivets are cheaper and low tech.
Get a rivet gun and use a drill to remove rivets without doing damage. Screws will be rattling loose and pepple want these in original condition so screwing things back together instead of replacing the rivets reduces value and buyers.
They're not high, think of them as marketing costs, they literally connect you to millions of buyers who are looking for a specific thing, it's a no brainer. You can sell locally also on free sites like craigslist where you have to spend time (money) to meet people who are often time wasters and then low ball your asking price anyway.
The metal from which the wheels are made looks like bronze, moreover due to it's rather gold color I'd say it's one of the alloys on the highst Cu content. It is kinda suspicious cos i would expect brass but it might be that. It's hard to tell by the color seen on a YT video for sure due to tarnish as well. Why didn't you just wash whole axes with soap and lukewarm water tho? Or, in a tiny container filled with IPA (no, not the beer lol)? I mean it is plastic and relatively corrosion resistant metal so why waste time and so many swabs?
If we find a way to mail aaron koharsky and his family to you, do you think you can fix them? They're a trainwreck no pun intended. Two tools id recommend are polar pops, a coat hanger and plenty of glade amd febreeze.
I buy and rebuild HO scale Engines, have about 120 engines in my collection, did a whole UA-cam series just on my trains. The problem is almost always in the engine, can range from dirty wheels, dirty commentator, worn/stuck brushes, cracked plastic gears, worn bearings, broken belts, etc
Id say with quite a bit of fine wiring work, you would be able to, but you will still be limited to USB 2.0 speeds, because that's all the controller has, along with bluetooth.
Make your life easier and buy a cheapo sonic jewelry cleaner, you can clean even tiny delicate plastic parts with 0 effort. I clean literally everything in mine, plastics, metals, rubbers and even vape equipment. Coming from MyMateVince like your videos.
Before "Made in Taiwan", "Made In China" or even "Hecho en Mexico", things were "Made in America" at a much higher hourly rate. I'm not really familiar with the history of power tools but I can confidently say they probably weren't in use at a children's toy factory in the 1960's so the options were to tap the hole and bolt it (an entire extra manufacturing step) use a nut and bolt (slower assembly & more manufacturing pieces) use more diecast aluminum parts so you could use a self tapping screw (slower assembly & more cost) or use cheap steel & brass and a blind "pop" rivet that took less than 5 seconds. So yeah it was to save money in as much as time is money so maybe not in the way you thought. P.S. The really old toys made out of tin were simply too soft to form threads that lasted any decent length of time so bolts or rivets were a must and you can guess which one was more available back then.
Hi Tronicsfix hope your having a good day. I'm have a error message CE-34335-8 on my PS4 pro. I haven't missed with any of it's system files. And I olny had it for 1 month. What can I do so that this problem Happens again?
That unit you set behind locomotive is actually a cabless B Unit engine. I paused it at 48 seconds, so at that time, I don't know if the B Unit is supposed to be a powered engine unit or a dummy, nonpowered unit.
Ever tried to fix one of these yourself? What do you think of the fix...did I do it right?
Looks like it is a fix that will last, and looks fine also
Yeah good fix ! Where did you get those new couplers ? Are you some kind of MacGyver ? :))
I’ve done some old Lionel stuff. Engines and coal cars etc.
I know that's it's been a long time since you made this video, but you probably should have used some Red Loctite on those nuts holding the motor together, to keep them from falling off due to vibrations from the train going around the track...
I’m amazed that the Big Bird clock didn’t go for more!
When it comes to lubrication around the commutator, you are correct. The commutator contacts are normally meant to be kept dry, the residue that you cleaned off is just carbon build-up from sparking inherent of brush dc motors.
I really love all the cleanup work you do. Sometimes I think it would be really cool to see a before/after cleaning comparison. :)
The Santa Fe!
I had one of these as a kid in the late 90's!
Mine was only the basic kit though, with an oval track and only 1 or 2 carriages.
Cool! It's such a great set.
So nice to see an old school repair on an old school toy, and really good to see you out of your comfort zone, well done Sir!
The couplers are actually not as difficult to replace as what you went through.
You just need to press the plastic tab that functions as a spring while pulling it out.
Once it's out, just push the new one in. It snaps into place.
I've broken and replaced a few.
I freaking love this series.
Facts
Nice fix Steve, looks like a professional job replacing those rivets. The train will hopefully turn a profit :-)
Thanks! I think the bolts should work good long term. I did turn a small profit at least!
We used to use a coin laid flat on the tracks to clean them. Just moved it back and forth over the track and the sharp edges of the coin would abrade the tracks clean! We had mostly Hornby model trains here in the UK.
That's a great idea!
@@Tronicsfix running a train for a few hours straight on that old brass track will clean it up too just have to run it fast enough to not stall on the dirty bits
I don't know about electronics wise, but in video, you are superior to Vince, especially in the way you narrate and the way you film. I wound up watching your videos just by chance, and I really enjoy your attitude, your enthusiasm, your approach and your videos are 1/3 the length of most of Vince's, who I know is your buddy, but hey, someone has to be better, and it is you man.
Bought my first soldering iron thanks to you and Vince.
Going to try and replace a gameboy speaker. Hoping I dont fail hard.
Great repair! Regarding those truck rivets: when fixing vintage die-cast cars I've drilled rivets and then tapped the remaining rivet shaft and used small flat head screws to reassemble.
My dentist's office has a train just like this that goes around in the waiting room. I'm not sure if this is the same model or an older, but it's nice to watch a repair on a similar one.
FYI - Love that you list all your tools and such!! That bench power supply looks amazing! Might have to pick one up!
It's done well for me. Not the fanciest one but for the price it works well.
My grandfather gave me a Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer. I was about 5. I used to sleep with the locomotive next to my head. Poor dad always had to re-solder the wires.
I have fixed some old Lionel engines and coal cars. It’s mostly cleanup and lube. Fortunately there are lots of parts available.
Those Big Bird clocks are selling for like $50 to $150 now on Ebay.
Why don`t use ultrasonic cleaner and then with syringe with a needle
lubricate parts that must have lube on them? And also - why you did not use locktite on the bolts? It is vibrating much and can gets apart eventually...
The second locomotive in real life is a powered "B" unit. the F7A would be the unit with the cab that the engineer would ride in at the front of the train. Thanks for doing a train set! =)
Tried to buy the Big Bird alarm clock, but for some reason it would not allow me to bid from Canada.
the idea here is that rivets wont come loose, but the bolts locating at the part with the motor might. Had one of those myself, but produced it the soviet union) also had the problem with the motor, but wasnt able to fix it myself back in the days
btw. You should get yourself a 3d printer, so you can fix plastic parts like those hooks. It will also help with some missing parts like battery covers etc.
If I get electrocuted then we have record of it XD
Love ya, Steve 😊
my dad was fixing a lot of those back in the old 1986 year. Great job by the way :)
A very nice fix on a beautifull trainset. Nice job changing out the rivets with screws. I hope it brings some profit.
A big square pencil eraser is the easiest and cheapest way to clean the wheels and track.
great vid starting watching your vid due to my mate vice love the challenges keep them going
In the future, for small rivets that are easy to drive and set, talk to an aircraft fastener supply place. Ask for solid aluminium rivets, 1100, and you can find them in a variety of lengths and a variety of small diameters.
I am glad I never bought Mantua's Diesels. They should of just stuck with Steam.
In fact I love Mantua Steam.
when I repair these I drill out the rivets and use small screws/ cleaning them does wonders / also use Loctite blue on screws
I had that train as a kid we would put it under the Christmas tree I think my aunt got it for us I would sit and play with it for hours under the tree lol.
regarding your T shirt if only the book existed My Mate Vince could've used a copy in his video!
Only $1.25 for Big Bird?? Gosh, that was a really neat piece :( I love these repair videos, you and Vince do a stellar job!
You are getting it clean, but a much faster way is to use a tiny bit of CRC, or WD-40 and a toothbrush. Then clean it, and use a tiny bit of vaseline to lubricate the cogs, and screws
Hi assuming the brushes are carbon then carbon is a lubricant.
When you tested the bulb and condemned it,I did not see you connect a gnd wire to the metal bracket.
The carriage lamps when you were cleaning the bogies (Truck) you can see a silver shiny metal strip length ways along the bogie (Truck) I assume that is the power contact to the lamps.
depending on the rivet, you could spin a metal drillbit between your fingers, i took oot rivets on servers this way, because, drilling through a mainboard is a bad bad bad idea
Awesome repair on video as always
Awesome fix u did an awesome job I used to have the same exact same one
Loving these series of videos.
Great vid, I really enjoyed watching that fix. I do wonder tho as your channel is console heavy fixing that people might skip this vid, but I loved it.
How do you yourself repair battery corrosion? Have you done a video on that sort of stuff
Another excellent fix, nice repair of those rivets, good job really enjoyed this one too.
I'm not a fan of rivets...makes them so much harder to fix. But I think the bolts work well with it.
You can make those rivets with some solid brass rivets.
Love the train! I think you fixed it well enough. My only thought would have been to paint to screw heads black so they would blend in. I doubt it matters though since it's on the bottom. Can't wait for the last video!!
I didn't even think about black paint...that would have made them look nicer.
I notice the Atari t shirt you’re wearing, that’s a great tribute to the item I sold Vince.
I discovered your channel and i like very much your videos! :)
The car you placed right behind the engine is in fact a second engine, just without a cab. They are called B units. Edit: I see you already know that now. Really nice train btw, really liked tyco growing up.
This motor without casing is cool looking
Yes, I agree!
Coincidentally wearing an Atari 2600 shirt when MyMateVince just fixed one??
Yea that made me chuckle too :)
Ha, ha...we didn't even plan that!
Screws would be rattling loose all the time plus rivets are cheaper. Machine screws back then would have been expensive to manufacture, rivets are cheaper and low tech.
Great fixes =D
Hey thanks!
Get a rivet gun and use a drill to remove rivets without doing damage. Screws will be rattling loose and pepple want these in original condition so screwing things back together instead of replacing the rivets reduces value and buyers.
Too bad eBay's fees are so high. All it does is discourage people from doing this sort of thing.
Ya, it's a bummer but eBay is also the only reason I could sell this so easily.
@@Tronicsfix Yeah, they have to be interested so we could use their service, so what we have right now is actually good.
Yup, I attempted an online business through ebay and after selling a few things realized it was impossible to make anything with there fees
They're not high, think of them as marketing costs, they literally connect you to millions of buyers who are looking for a specific thing, it's a no brainer. You can sell locally also on free sites like craigslist where you have to spend time (money) to meet people who are often time wasters and then low ball your asking price anyway.
I had this exact same train as a child. How did you manage to do two videos with two toys I had as a child so close together? Are you a wizard?
I dig your shirt! Where can I get one?
Can you do a PS4 Pro CUH 7200 vs Xbox One X?
vince 4th vid match to your shirt
i really like your Atari shirt!
Where may I look up on ebay for your items
The metal from which the wheels are made looks like bronze, moreover due to it's rather gold color I'd say it's one of the alloys on the highst Cu content.
It is kinda suspicious cos i would expect brass but it might be that. It's hard to tell by the color seen on a YT video for sure due to tarnish as well.
Why didn't you just wash whole axes with soap and lukewarm water tho? Or, in a tiny container filled with IPA (no, not the beer lol)? I mean it is plastic and relatively corrosion resistant metal so why waste time and so many swabs?
Cool item. Hope it sells back on ebay for a fair price.
I made a small profit so not too bad.
The brushes are made to be self lubricating.
If we find a way to mail aaron koharsky and his family to you, do you think you can fix them? They're a trainwreck no pun intended. Two tools id recommend are polar pops, a coat hanger and plenty of glade amd febreeze.
Is the T-Shirt a "You needed this Vince" :)
Did you not film it running with all the cars?? :O
If you have an IBM PS2 running CADKEY with associated dongle and 3D printer then why not print out a new coupler.
good video but What no sales numbers on this video??
It hadn't sold when I edited the video. I'll be updating my Instagram with sales numbers.
We didnt see the train fully running on tracks
Man you're genius!
Ha, ha...thanks!
That was fun to watch
How much did you get?
i think you should have put a ps4 head screw for the engine coupler :D
Wash the bodys with Car wax Soap.and micro Fiber Cloth
Sheldon Cooper approves
MOREE TOYSSSS
My favorite anime series
I buy and rebuild HO scale Engines, have about 120 engines in my collection, did a whole UA-cam series just on my trains. The problem is almost always in the engine, can range from dirty wheels, dirty commentator, worn/stuck brushes, cracked plastic gears, worn bearings, broken belts, etc
I want you to know i was just kidding around with last comment i like your channnel.
I have the same
You needed to grease the gears. It would have run better if you did.
is it possible to add a USB C port to a PS4 controller - random question but seems like you would know
Id say with quite a bit of fine wiring work, you would be able to, but you will still be limited to USB 2.0 speeds, because that's all the controller has, along with bluetooth.
Make your life easier and buy a cheapo sonic jewelry cleaner, you can clean even tiny delicate plastic parts with 0 effort. I clean literally everything in mine, plastics, metals, rubbers and even vape equipment. Coming from MyMateVince like your videos.
Imagine Apple watches this episode....
Riveted iphones anyone?
Why at the end of the video you dont add the price you sold it for, like Vince does
Because they haven't always sold by the time I'm done with the video. I've been putting updates on my Instagram.
I've never really understood why old toys have rivets instead of screws? Is it all because the manufactures saved money on it?
Before "Made in Taiwan", "Made In China" or even "Hecho en Mexico", things were "Made in America" at a much higher hourly rate. I'm not really familiar with the history of power tools but I can confidently say they probably weren't in use at a children's toy factory in the 1960's so the options were to tap the hole and bolt it (an entire extra manufacturing step) use a nut and bolt (slower assembly & more manufacturing pieces) use more diecast aluminum parts so you could use a self tapping screw (slower assembly & more cost) or use cheap steel & brass and a blind "pop" rivet that took less than 5 seconds.
So yeah it was to save money in as much as time is money so maybe not in the way you thought.
P.S. The really old toys made out of tin were simply too soft to form threads that lasted any decent length of time so bolts or rivets were a must and you can guess which one was more available back then.
The only ones that make money are ebay and paypal :((
Fees on those platforms are ridiculous...but they have the audience.
Hi Tronicsfix hope your having a good day. I'm have a error message CE-34335-8 on my PS4 pro. I haven't missed with any of it's system files. And I olny had it for 1 month. What can I do so that this problem Happens again?
**puts in 1 Million Candle Led** Bit dark...
Hmmmm
🙋♂️🤸♂️
That unit you set behind locomotive is actually a cabless B Unit engine. I paused it at 48 seconds, so at that time, I don't know if the B Unit is supposed to be a powered engine unit or a dummy, nonpowered unit.