You are a few steps ahead of me now. I can see what I need to do. I need to open up the Transmission and see what's in there. Thank You for posting these, I can see it will help me and lots of other people.
Your doing a great job, doing the same with my B100 at the moment, it's surprising how over engineered these old machines are, there's no Chinese metal in them!!!
In the beginning of the video, did you just heat the bolts and unscrew them with a socket? I’m currently doing this. I didn’t see you actually wrench the nuts off
I’m not removing the clutches, I’m replacing the brake linings. I have the top plate off and the inspection plates on the bottom off. I removed the brake lining tensioner bolt on the bottom, and the pivot pins between the brake linings. The rear brake lining will not come out up or down due to clearance. In the manual it says you have to remove the pivot pin, I removed the cap screw on the outside of the frame and started driving the pin inward. It is too long and will hit what looks like its square framing or torsion suspension or something bent in an L or U shape. I’m wondering if jacking up the crawler may give clearance to drive the pins out. Do you have experience with this?
Here is a link to the bar that it’s hitting. I’m tapping it inward and it’s hitting the bar I’m pointing to. It’s a horizontal stabilizer bar I guess. drive.google.com/file/d/1LRU5bfqKHfnYWwe1QOC_mu62bY6njnlS/view?usp=drivesdk
Please join the international harvester crawler group on Facebook, and then you can upload pictures of your machine. The people in the group are really helpful. It was a couple of years ago I did mine, and from memory, I removed the bottom lining once the steering clutch was out of the machine.
You are a few steps ahead of me now. I can see what I need to do. I need to open up the Transmission and see what's in there. Thank You for posting these, I can see it will help me and lots of other people.
Nic job for doing this old girl love to see it all up and running again have fun doing it jason all the way from new Zealand
Brilliant video
Your doing a great job, doing the same with my B100 at the moment, it's surprising how over engineered these old machines are, there's no Chinese metal in them!!!
por favor necesitó catálogo o vídeo para desarmar la corona y cambiar rodamientos del TD 6 de las ruedas dentadas
Ask on the Facebook group international harvester crawlers, there will be someone who will be able to help.
In the beginning of the video, did you just heat the bolts and unscrew them with a socket? I’m currently doing this. I didn’t see you actually wrench the nuts off
I warmed the nuts up and then used a ratchet and socket to remove them.
I’m not removing the clutches, I’m replacing the brake linings. I have the top plate off and the inspection plates on the bottom off. I removed the brake lining tensioner bolt on the bottom, and the pivot pins between the brake linings. The rear brake lining will not come out up or down due to clearance. In the manual it says you have to remove the pivot pin, I removed the cap screw on the outside of the frame and started driving the pin inward. It is too long and will hit what looks like its square framing or torsion suspension or something bent in an L or U shape. I’m wondering if jacking up the crawler may give clearance to drive the pins out. Do you have experience with this?
I have pictures of what I’m talking about but I can’t figure out how to attach them
Here is a link to the bar that it’s hitting. I’m tapping it inward and it’s hitting the bar I’m pointing to. It’s a horizontal stabilizer bar I guess.
drive.google.com/file/d/1LRU5bfqKHfnYWwe1QOC_mu62bY6njnlS/view?usp=drivesdk
Please join the international harvester crawler group on Facebook, and then you can upload pictures of your machine. The people in the group are really helpful. It was a couple of years ago I did mine, and from memory, I removed the bottom lining once the steering clutch was out of the machine.