What he means is, if you follow the grease tube from the outer perimeter of the clutch housing down to the bearing you’ll see a flat spot on the mating surface; that mating surface is to be lined up with the notch in the pinion shaft so grease will be forced into the pinion bearing. That’s why he says line the tube up with the notch. You have to pull your inspection covers periodically and grease the pinion bearing from the grease fitting on the outer perimeter of the hub.
I’m not sure why everyone puts the homemade steel tabs over the clutch spring to hold the spring from expanding. I have all the original manuals for these dozers and it does not tell you to do that. Plus, the spring is bolted into a spring retainer so unless all three bolts in the spring retainer break, it’s not going to spring out. When the spring is installed it is done so by an arbor press then the 3 spring retainer bolts are installed. When the clutch lever is pulled it only compresses the spring an 1/8-3/16” or so to free the clutches up. I do think this is the best video describing this job but I see no way mechanically on my 1966 however that the clutch spring can expand when the clutch is assembled. It’s in the expanded position when it’s completely assembled. That’s how the clutches are locked, thus driving the final drive assembly (sprocket.) Pulling the clutch levers depress the spring inside of the spring retainer. If someone knows differently please respond. Great video.
Yeah I have t340 too. It doesn't turn left really at all the steering clutch is adjusted right I tried the brake adjustment on left side too. It looks like I need to get into the steering clutches on mine too but I don't have time. I am currently working on my td6 and my D8 46a. I finished the staring clutches on the td6. Now I had the head rebuilt and putting the head back together but I head bolt broke so I'm trying to extract the broken off bolt out of the block. I just took the steering clutches out of my d8 46a. I replaced the seal on the pinion gear to the finals outside drive gears on right side. will be posting that video soon. I got to make the video I'm a little delayed because I dropped my android phone into the rear end into the 30 weight oil. So it won't be tell spring time tell I work on my T 340 and I also going to rebuild the motor on it too. Let me look at my book for the T 3:40 and then I'll post another comment to see if I give you some more information but it's probably the steering clutches are bad.
I have a International t340 that needs turn clutch pads I think, It will not turn unless its going up hill Will not on flat ground I have adjusted levers and side adjusters Can you give any input
What he means is, if you follow the grease tube from the outer perimeter of the clutch housing down to the bearing you’ll see a flat spot on the mating surface; that mating surface is to be lined up with the notch in the pinion shaft so grease will be forced into the pinion bearing. That’s why he says line the tube up with the notch. You have to pull your inspection covers periodically and grease the pinion bearing from the grease fitting on the outer perimeter of the hub.
Good job. I have a 1949 T9 and might have to get into the clutches and bearings soon. Your video was helpful.
I’m not sure why everyone puts the homemade steel tabs over the clutch spring to hold the spring from expanding. I have all the original manuals for these dozers and it does not tell you to do that. Plus, the spring is bolted into a spring retainer so unless all three bolts in the spring retainer break, it’s not going to spring out. When the spring is installed it is done so by an arbor press then the 3 spring retainer bolts are installed. When the clutch lever is pulled it only compresses the spring an 1/8-3/16” or so to free the clutches up. I do think this is the best video describing this job but I see no way mechanically on my 1966 however that the clutch spring can expand when the clutch is assembled. It’s in the expanded position when it’s completely assembled. That’s how the clutches are locked, thus driving the final drive assembly (sprocket.) Pulling the clutch levers depress the spring inside of the spring retainer. If someone knows differently please respond. Great video.
Yeah I have t340 too. It doesn't turn left really at all the steering clutch is adjusted right I tried the brake adjustment on left side too. It looks like I need to get into the steering clutches on mine too but I don't have time. I am currently working on my td6 and my D8 46a. I finished the staring clutches on the td6. Now I had the head rebuilt and putting the head back together but I head bolt broke so I'm trying to extract the broken off bolt out of the block. I just took the steering clutches out of my d8 46a. I replaced the seal on the pinion gear to the finals outside drive gears on right side. will be posting that video soon. I got to make the video I'm a little delayed because I dropped my android phone into the rear end into the 30 weight oil. So it won't be tell spring time tell I work on my T 340 and I also going to rebuild the motor on it too. Let me look at my book for the T 3:40 and then I'll post another comment to see if I give you some more information but it's probably the steering clutches are bad.
Me and my dad had a td6 and did the same thing but the steering clutches were out of adjustments
Do you have to drain diff oil? Thanks
Do you know why my td6 would be having oil leaking into the space by the brakes. Is there some kind of seal in by the bearing?
Genius (you got a handle on it )good luck)
Do you know what machines can be used for parts other than TD-6?
Great video,
I have a International t340 that needs turn clutch pads I think, It will not turn unless its going up hill Will not on flat ground I have adjusted levers and side adjusters Can you give any input
Hi where do you get parts for the international
F P Smith Fairfield CA, if you can get them to take your call and call you back. They have the rights for international , farmall,
Svp fait 14b