I use this splice on my rode. I've had folks act horrified that "there's only two strands through the chain!" Well, no. There are actually four strands taking the strain from the chain link. One of the major rope manufacturers (can't recall who) tested this splice and determined that it was actually stronger than the three-strand rope is was made from. It passes through my windlass very smoothly.
The four strands come from the fact that the two strands double back. You have 3 strands leading to the chain but the chain is supported by 4 strands (#1 and #2 going to and returning from the link).
Can you recall where you have seen the test? I totally agree that the force is distributed effectively by the 4 strands, but the weakest “link“ might be the 2 strands that are in the chain link itself (before they return and double down) so I’m concerned that exactly this portion of the rope might fail. It’s more concerning to me because I’m using the strongest chain in the market made from “duplex” material by Cromox which enabled me to downsize the chain diameter, which also means that I now have to use a smaller rope..
I like this, I will have to try soon. Grinding a 3/8" BB down all chain as mooring. Looks smooth enough. Apparently I should have painted with antifouling that I was considering. The winter crop is set now. Last time up my CQR brought up another larger CQR.
@@RiggingDoctor My friend was wondering why his morage on 80' schooner didn't swing right had it dove to find chain hung up on a ferocement sailboat sunk. Everyone jokes that he can pull up the anchors now and just use that boat.
In your write-up, you mention that "It is very important though that the link be tied tightly in the rope that way it doesn't wiggle around while in service." But here in the video you say we should leave a little wiggle room with the 3/16" fid. Which one you support now? and what made you change your mind?
It depends on your setup. If you have a windlass, you need to make it loose. If you are pulling it up by hand you should make it tight. When it’s tight, it’s less likely to chafe so it will last longer. The problem is the link won’t move to line up with the windlass and it could jam or skip when it transitions from rope to chain. Having the space can make it chafe there so you need to inspect this point frequently and repair/resplice as needed. If you are pulling it up by hand, make it tight so it doesn’t wiggle.
Used this to prep my secondary anchor for the upcoming season, so thanks! Any chance you, as a rigger, could explain, flush out more or demonstrate how to DIY a dyneema adjustable double ended, whoopie sling-ish, main sheet system like what Nike from white spot pirates used on her Karl recently? I have a NorSea27 that has a single ended main but it’s set up like a double end: only one standing end out of the port main sheet block but the sheet is attached to both rear quarters. It makes it difficult to sail to windward not being able to pull the boom to windward. Same problem but to a lesser degree with our smaller Ideal 18 daysailer. Looks like a potentially very useful solution on both my boats. Probably others too Thanks again, great vids!
That is an awesome setup! Thanks for showing it to me! Our Alberg has the same setup her boat had and I was trying to figure a better way to setup my mainsheet. Great topic and idea :)
Very nice video. Going to add it to a playlist. I'm starting about 25 new playlists, all starting with the word Sailing. This new playlist will be called Sailing Knots and Lines I've got a ton of Dyneema videos, ect. I think. I'll also have it downloaded on a thumb drive in a folder by the same name. Why ? Well, I'd like to get on a boat, and sail to "exotic places" which usually have no internet , right ? Interesting you have a 12v windlass. I wasn't remembering that detail but know you definitely stay away from electrical stuff. How are the new batteries holding up ?
We walked by it but they weren’t having a meeting while we were in town. We also found the Scottish Rite Valley in Savannah while exploring the town! Are you a brother from Solomon’s?
It is the better way of the two rope to chain splice methods, but if there is no windlass, the idea would be a thimble on the rope and a proper shackle connecting the rope to the last link of chain.
It's been awhile since I've spliced to chain but the last time I vaguely recall I passed two strands through chain link and third strand through chain link the opposite way like you did but then I back spliced all three strands together same time as if splicing a normal eye/back splice and tapered tucks as normal. I can't remember doing like you did in this video by splicing just two strands first, but maybe I did. Is It possible to splice it like I described? (With one strand having the half hitch lock at chain link). I'll have to have a practice again as I recall doing it and if I get stuck from wrong method refer to your video to correct myself.
You can but the result is going to be thicker and on some windlasses it might be “just too thick” to flow through and could get stuck. The method shown keeps the line size even enough to flow through even the finickiest windlass gypsy.
I’m sorry you weren’t able to follow along. Maybe this format will be of more help for you: www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2017/5/25/rope-to-chain-splice
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UpkqJ4GRfSg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
![Chain Hook Splice [DIY Snubber] | Sailing Wisdom](/img/n.gif)
I use this splice on my rode. I've had folks act horrified that "there's only two strands through the chain!" Well, no. There are actually four strands taking the strain from the chain link. One of the major rope manufacturers (can't recall who) tested this splice and determined that it was actually stronger than the three-strand rope is was made from. It passes through my windlass very smoothly.
Four strands? At 6:26, Herb adds the third strand. When does he add the fourth?
The four strands come from the fact that the two strands double back. You have 3 strands leading to the chain but the chain is supported by 4 strands (#1 and #2 going to and returning from the link).
Does not make sense to me. I only see two strands in the link.
Can you recall where you have seen the test? I totally agree that the force is distributed effectively by the 4 strands, but the weakest “link“ might be the 2 strands that are in the chain link itself (before they return and double down) so I’m concerned that exactly this portion of the rope might fail.
It’s more concerning to me because I’m using the strongest chain in the market made from “duplex” material by Cromox which enabled me to downsize the chain diameter, which also means that I now have to use a smaller rope..
Thanks again Herb, wow pretty easy just a little time.
Thanks a lot for the tips. Greenpete's World brought me here. Also subscribed 👍
Welcome aboard! Not sure what Greenpete’s world is, but I’m glad you found us :)
I like this, I will have to try soon. Grinding a 3/8" BB down all chain as mooring. Looks smooth enough. Apparently I should have painted with antifouling that I was considering. The winter crop is set now. Last time up my CQR brought up another larger CQR.
Sounds like you went fishing for anchors and used the right kind of bait 😂
@@RiggingDoctor My friend was wondering why his morage on 80' schooner didn't swing right had it dove to find chain hung up on a ferocement sailboat sunk. Everyone jokes that he can pull up the anchors now and just use that boat.
Excellent video!
I'll have to watch 4 or 5 more times to get it. But atleast I understand the principle.
Thanks :)
Thanks for the test shot at the end. I was skeptical it would work😂
It’s always good to test your work 😉
I test mine every time I do it.
In your write-up, you mention that "It is very important though that the link be tied tightly in the rope that way it doesn't wiggle around while in service." But here in the video you say we should leave a little wiggle room with the 3/16" fid. Which one you support now? and what made you change your mind?
It depends on your setup. If you have a windlass, you need to make it loose. If you are pulling it up by hand you should make it tight.
When it’s tight, it’s less likely to chafe so it will last longer. The problem is the link won’t move to line up with the windlass and it could jam or skip when it transitions from rope to chain.
Having the space can make it chafe there so you need to inspect this point frequently and repair/resplice as needed. If you are pulling it up by hand, make it tight so it doesn’t wiggle.
Well only started splicing 50 years ago, and never saw that splice, no way was that 50 years of splicing, but have been around plenty.
Used this to prep my secondary anchor for the upcoming season, so thanks!
Any chance you, as a rigger, could explain, flush out more or demonstrate how to DIY a dyneema adjustable double ended, whoopie sling-ish, main sheet system like what Nike from white spot pirates used on her Karl recently? I have a NorSea27 that has a single ended main but it’s set up like a double end: only one standing end out of the port main sheet block but the sheet is attached to both rear quarters. It makes it difficult to sail to windward not being able to pull the boom to windward. Same problem but to a lesser degree with our smaller Ideal 18 daysailer. Looks like a potentially very useful solution on both my boats. Probably others too
Thanks again, great vids!
That is an awesome setup! Thanks for showing it to me! Our Alberg has the same setup her boat had and I was trying to figure a better way to setup my mainsheet.
Great topic and idea :)
Very nice video. Going to add it to a playlist. I'm starting about 25 new playlists, all starting with the word Sailing. This new playlist will be called Sailing Knots and Lines I've got a ton of Dyneema videos, ect. I think. I'll also have it downloaded on a thumb drive in a folder by the same name. Why ? Well, I'd like to get on a boat, and sail to "exotic places" which usually have no internet , right ? Interesting you have a 12v windlass. I wasn't remembering that detail but know you definitely stay away from electrical stuff. How are the new batteries holding up ?
Great organizational strategy! The batteries are great. We are soooo glad we made the switch
I am wondering why you didn't use a SS thimble through the chain to minimize chafing. Would that cause problems at the windlass?
Exactly. The windlass is the reason that everything has be smooth and tapered. It is a troublesome spot but one that is easy enough to inspect.
Very helpful, thank you!!
Can you clarify what you did with #1 after undoing it to replace with #2?
As you lift #2 you create a groove where you lay #1 into. Basically, you replace #2 with #1.
Awesome, Herby! Well done. Thank you! 👍👍👍
Greetings brother! Did you happen to visit Solomon’s Lodge in Savannah while you were there?
We walked by it but they weren’t having a meeting while we were in town. We also found the Scottish Rite Valley in Savannah while exploring the town!
Are you a brother from Solomon’s?
interesting installation on the chain rope splice. I like it. Is that the same as the ABOK 2858?
I will have to check. Maddie just got me ABOK 😁
I wish to learn more. IIs there a name for this particular splice? Or is it a Rigging Doctor special?
It’s called a “rope to chain splice” :)
And if you were not using a windlass do you feel this better than the way it was?
It is the better way of the two rope to chain splice methods, but if there is no windlass, the idea would be a thimble on the rope and a proper shackle connecting the rope to the last link of chain.
Nice spice, new windlass, or lucky customer?
Lucky customer :)
@@RiggingDoctor Lucky customer is right, I was however hoping for a new windlass.
It's been awhile since I've spliced to chain but the last time I vaguely recall I passed two strands through chain link and third strand through chain link the opposite way like you did but then I back spliced all three strands together same time as if splicing a normal eye/back splice and tapered tucks as normal. I can't remember doing like you did in this video by splicing just two strands first, but maybe I did. Is It possible to splice it like I described? (With one strand having the half hitch lock at chain link). I'll have to have a practice again as I recall doing it and if I get stuck from wrong method refer to your video to correct myself.
You can but the result is going to be thicker and on some windlasses it might be “just too thick” to flow through and could get stuck. The method shown keeps the line size even enough to flow through even the finickiest windlass gypsy.
@@RiggingDoctor Thx, makes sense as your taper is much longer and keeps everything slimline 👍
I knew I'd seen this before, tricksters! LOL
We filmed this back in Spain and being a Patron, you got early access to it ;)
2:39 All that cross-fading makes this really confusing (for me anyway!).
Sorry for the confusion
@@RiggingDoctor lol, it's my confusion, not yours! Elegantly done job though!
❤❤❤
Im not sure if the link to your next video is badly placed or... Who or what are poondrifters?
It mush be a typo because they are Spoondrifters. They are one of our Patreons
So are you a traveling man ?
I am from Palestine #189 in Catonsville, MD
👍!!!
damn Herby, you choose a worst background is posible...
Almerimar 😎
#BanMensFlipFlops
😂😂😂
😂 I don’t own closed toe shoes
Avoid all this with an all chain rode......
Indeed! That’s what we have and I never have to worry about the anchor being lost due to chafe
Rarely, if ever, have I seen such a confusing and unintelligible demo. Utterly unfathomable.
I’m sorry you weren’t able to follow along. Maybe this format will be of more help for you: www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2017/5/25/rope-to-chain-splice