Chain Hook Splice [DIY Snubber] | Sailing Wisdom
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- Опубліковано 28 жов 2023
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Chain hooks are an important part at the end of the snubber. They make it easy to hook the snubber onto a chain anchor rode which will let you anchor safely and with less steps. Tying the snubber to the chain can be combersome and tricky to do, but a chain hook simply slips onto the chain with no drama or fuss. Using this splice, you can create your own very strong snubber which can easily be setup and taken apart everytime you anchor.
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This is a great how to video, you could follow up with a video discussing factors that make a splice strong and durable and maybe stress test with a strain gauge. It's early, but I think you will get lots of views because you are a great teacher.
@jackchamberlain5993, I agree with your view, though I am more comfortable with "excellent" rather than "great".😊
Second comment! A long snubber is a great way to get your chain wrapped around the halyard winch on a boat with no windlass/capstan!
Very true! Just lead it to the mast and start cranking. If you have to pull the whole thing up that way, it is called “nipping”. It’s how the old ships used to raise anchor and a small child would climb down the hawse pipe to tie the line as close to the water as possible. They were referred to as “little nippers”.
Herby, your knowledge continues to amaze me. Thank you for all the instructional videos you do.
You are very welcome
Favorite kind of video from you!! Loved the video! 🙏❤🇺🇸⛵👣🤗⚘
Just wait for next week! It will be about fenders and fender whips
Brion Toss suggests sewing in a bungee cord inside the three strand. works very good
Great idea
@01:45 So I'm guessing there must be reasons why would eschew taping the bitter ends while un-laying and making the splice.
Another excellent tutorial, Herbie!
The tape holds it together but if you don’t unravel the strands, you don’t have to use tape.
I like to not use tape because I have more control over the thickness of the line. I can go flattening it out as I move further along with the splice and this helps with the taper.
Thank you, my brother man, I just learned something I done bend to school today I appreciate that because what I just learned will come in very handy on our boat.
Thanks for the vid!
Brilllllliant - thanks for sharing ⛵️ 👍
😎
Very interresting as usual, thanks. But what kind of splice would you recommand when the hook is linked to two snubbers (going back to each cleat on each side of the bow)? Cheers!
I would still do the same, but after the chainsplice (a few feet back) I would do a short splice to tie in the second line. This would make it look like a Y.
While it won’t be as strong as 2 lines, the one splice at the hook would still be stronger than a single line as the hook is supported by 4 strands (even though you only used 2, it’s mind boggling but in physical testing, it shows true so just take it for what it’s worth). To have it be truly two lines strong you would need to make two of them and have two hooks.
The problem with two hooks is one will always be at rest and will likely fall off if not a captive hook since these hooks need to be under load to stay on.
Thank you for this wisdom @@RiggingDoctor , your comment is rich!
Curious,… I may have missed something but what is a benefit of this type of splice over a common 3 strand chain splice? I’ve been using the common splice for over 12 years now. They go through the windless perfectly and have been through 5 hurricanes, of which 2 where over cat3.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s a fine splice and you did a great job teaching it. However is it better or worse than common chain splice?
I love your channel and look forward to future content.
Heck, your the reason we ditched the CQR plow and purchased a Mantus2 😅
You are lucky the regular splice passes through. It is slightly stronger than the regular splice, but the biggest benefit is that it will pass through a windlass.
With this said, if yours is working on your windlass, I would let sleeping dogs lay and leave it alone.
I’m glad your anchors have held firmly through those nasty storms! Growing up in Puerto Rico, I have a healthy respect and a well appointed fear of hurricanes!!
Glad you switched to the Mantus ;)
@@RiggingDoctor thanks so much for the reply. That all makes perfect sense. 👍
👍👍👍
Another good splicing video. I’ve just done my new snubber a week before your video and I did it with a multi strand rope, typical in Norway. Anyway, I’ve been searching the web for length of snubbers and so many opinions and Practical boat owner was up at crazy lengths. With my 37 foot sailboat I have gone for 20 feet. What is your opinion?
20 feet is good because it gives you plenty of length for elasticity in rough weather.
I vary the length depending on the conditions where I anchor. If it’s calm, about 5 feet. If it’s choppy, 10 feet. If it’s really rough and the seas are more than 6 feet (when a storm comes and you have to ride it out) I will let out about 20 feet.
The goal is that when the chain goes tight, that the boat doesn’t “snap” because this shock load can pull the anchor out of the bottom. So, the “needed length” is: enough to eliminate shock loads to the anchor.
More than 20 feet just becomes excessive on a 37 foot boat.
I will have to add a Rubik's Cube to my rigger kit. Um, just what do I do with the Cube? Also, I named my rope sections Manny, Moe, and Jack.
🤓
Cool, That is something I need to make anyway, so just in time. Does the two lines going through the hook mean the join is 67% the strength of the line? Are the rope/chain Gypsies designed for a rope size that takes this into account? Or is the type of rope important.... bad question, there is some really bad stuff out there.... what kind(chemistry) of rope would you suggest?
The splice using two strands of the three is actually 33% stronger than the line. It’s mind bending, but the splice is supported by 4 lines even though it only used 2 of the 3. Since it doubles back, it becomes 4 vs 3. It doesn’t look right but in testing it actually is the strongest part of the setup.
For the snubber, you can use Nylon for additional stretch and elasticity but this action generates heat which will kill the line and cause it’s demise. Polyester three lay is less stretchy of a material but by virtue of being three lay, has a lot of stretch to it and won’t generate as much heat and would last longer.
In the states, you will need to special order polyester as everywhere sells nylon. If you are in Europe, they don’t sell nylon and everything is polyester.
I highly recommend polyester over nylon because of its added durability and lifespan.
@@RiggingDoctor Mind bending but makes sense. Having a smooth hole in the hook would be really important.
Herby, so with this splice basically just two strands are doing the job??
Technically, but the spliced part is working with the strength of 4 strands and is therefore stronger than the rest of the rope which only has 3 strands total.
Do you like a hook or a chain fork?
Personally, I like to tie a Magnus hitch. Of the hooks, one with a safety is important so that it doesn’t fall off when in a stormy anchorage.
I might be being dumb here, but why not just use a bowline to attach the rope?
Because that knot won’t go through a windless.
Also, the knot will be weaker than a splice, so this setup (while more time consuming) is stronger.
@@RiggingDoctor Hmmm... Wouldn't an eye splice work as well to attach a snubber hook to the snubber line? Am I correct in thinking the snubber line won't be pulled with the windlass so the rope2chain splice won't be essential? Or am I missing something?😮💨
"promo sm" 🤦
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