What did you think? What power armoured marine should we do next? Red armour paint bundle available here: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/artis-opus-bundles/artis-opus-blood-angels-armour
I just returned to painting minis a few weeks ago after a 20-year hiatus, largely because of videos like this one. Thanks for doing this. I followed this more or less as closely as I could, and I ended up with one of the best minis I have ever painted. This technique is fun and produces excellent results. Cheers
I love seeing more accessible methods to get nice looking finishes like this. It isn't how I paint, but I also am painting just to paint. Anything that makes the hobby more approachable and helps people get awesome looking models is good in my book. Have you considered getting a paint handle with an arm? Something like the Rathcore holder. I notice you have a lot of contact with the top of the models while you're painting, a bracing arm would let you still pinch down to get a stable grip on the model but would stop you from having to actually touch the painted surfaces. I can't imagine you're not getting at least occasional damage or issues from that.
It's a good question man, also super glad you enjoyed the tutorial, sorry for the delay! The holders are a real issue, I love them (especially the pretty/nice to hold Rathcore ones!) but drybrushing is very tactile, and physical, you lose control, stability, and also the mini moves more, which dramatically reduces drybrush final quality. If you pinned the hell out of something, that was chunky it could work, though, or if you're doing 'finishing stages' drybrushing.
@@ArtisOpus fair points. Though I generally move models to an actual holder once base work is done. I don't drybrush a ton but when I do I generally consider it an intermediate step before finish work. For things like airbrushing, drybrushing, initial oil washes, and the like I just keep models on a cork or tacked to a base. I mostly paint one offs and display models, but I've actually been working on a Death Guard army just as an experiment in efficiency. I'm enjoying seeing if I can come up with an easily repeatable, efficient process to put models out at a good pace but to a high standard. While not exactly what you generally do I've had great success in creating the base green with some usage of drybrushing. It's about half a dozen steps from prime to the green being done but the drybrushing has actually let me get away without needing to edge highlight at all. Plus I've been able to sneak in some soft radial highlights to reinforce what is already there from the airbrush work. I diverge some after that into oil washes. I'm kind of surprised you don't make use of them. They are extraordinarily easy and look great, which seems to sort of be your jam. Over a soft drybrush they also tend hugely smooth any graininess that you happen to end up with.
I've been watching you for a long time now and it still amazies me how much of a freak you are with a brush and make hard things look so easy and simple a real da Vinci of the miniature world. Love the work keep it up
I think I have watched 3/4 of your videos and this one is the best imo. Because you are drybrushing on flat area, without having any texture, and keeping recesses dark. I spent sooooo many time trying to fully paint an ork skin like this and I never got something nice. I guess I'll keep trying tomorrow ... I would love to see the same technique on a green skin ! Cheers
@@ArtisOpus In fact I did a pretty good one today haha. Testing with black and white then with differents green. Result is pretty close to my layering technique so now I need to choose when using layering or drybrushing on flat surfaces ^^
Man I absolutely love the way your Blood Angel marine turned out! New to painting and I have done standard painting like from a wet pallet but dry brushing is something I am trying next, wanting to see how both styles turn out!
Amazing. Looking forward to try this out as my Series D just arrived! Quick question: When applying initial base coat via stippling, is it just a case of dampening the drybrush, and then just dip in the paint like so in video (paint is not thinned down itself initially when taken out of bottle)?
Hey buddy, I only ever dip in carefully, check out our recent basecoating video, I tend to work from my palette, and I use a different heavy duty brush, to scoop the paint onto the palette.
Looks outstanding! I got back in to the hobby during covid times after not looking at a minature for about 27 years. There are so many painting tutorials on here but this one ifs probably my favourite. GW will hate it id imagine as they wouldnt sell have the quantity of merphiston red if everyone followed it!
Would love to see a video dedicated to the varnish topic you covered at the end with examples of when to use Matt vs satin and the products that can be purchased...great work though and thanks.
:) this is the type of thing we'll have to do very occasionally, our schedule/the hours in the day don't allow for it generally, it is something we see the importance of though, with restrictions easing a 24hour army vid is probably the most practical way to get some proper batching covered adequately, which will happen! Noted Martin, we'll pop it on the list :)
@@ArtisOpus thanks mate I do appreciate you considering it and fully understand the difficulty in producing the amazing content that you do....on the plus side it's a poorly covered t9pic on you tube so you'll get plenty of attention 👍thanks for being wonderful!
Excellent video again Byron. Don't know how you keep doing it lol Loved the process. My dry brush always gets too much texture so I am guessing the paint was too dry. Keep up the great work. I have nearly finished the first model of my own chapter so will try this technique on my next model. Thanks for your continued support to the hobby painting community
This is a nice evolution of the previous technique. What I'd really love to see though, is if you could build up from a base coat to the final actual color on the last highlights. Like using an Imperial Fist to go from a dark purple in the recesses and build up to yellow on the very last highlight. Use a tech marine or Centurion so you can build the purple to a cool color on other parts of the model.
I'm pretty sure youtube bugged and deleted our reply to this one, given that we gave it a like, and a love! That's a great idea dude, I'll hold it in mind in a future power armour vid!
Looks fantastic. It would be interesting to see how you would apply this to an army, or even just to a whole squad. With this much mixing I'd be worried about things not looking consistent across the army - but im sure you have methods for that.
Hey Andrew, time's the main issue for this, I work a pretty hectic schedule :). 2 top tips though: 1.) Stages done over squads, not single minis 2.) Make up mix pots for mixed stages, saves time, and helps promote coherency!
Hi Byron I tried replicating this approach (first time dry brush). Roughly got the effects but the model is quite textured. I find the balance of removing paint enough vs keeping it damp quite challenging. Any tips you can share on this ?
This looks amazing! Probably the best BA paint scheme I've seen. Anyway I can get a similar (although I know not quite as good) look in less time? With washes? Great work!
If you want it like this you have to use the same method dude, but you can absolutely skip some steps! Jumping between mixes to the next colour, maybe just using a tiny bit of previous colour in there, you can do 1/2 the stages and still get a solid job :)
Don't know if you are still seeing comments on this video. But on the old blood angels video you kind of started each step stippling on the brighter parts, then drybrushing all over. Do you do recommend now just starting with less on brush and go right into dry brushing like in this video? Thanks for the videos any help would be appreciated just trying to make my minis look better
Great question, mate, you can actually do both, just to be super safe, it's more - 'If you do this and make a mistake it'll be easier to fix' than a necessity - starting in the brightest bits, so essentially down to personal preference/confidence/what you're most happy doing :) I hope that helps? Let me know in another comment, YT is awful for conversation notifications, I miss a lot of replies to replies.
Quality is bang on. I want to try this method, but get closer to box art colour. This one seems darker? Is it the way its painted, lighting or the paints used? Could I drybrush the Meph red and evil sun's scarlet then edge highlight fore dragon bright?
the super dark shadows look really cool, might well be stealing that idea for my ork army! for the transfers, maybe try just dipping the transfer in the water, wipe excess off on the rim of your water pot, then leave the transfer on the bench for that small amount of water to soak through the backing paper, it takes a little longer, and they can be harder to move around on the surface, but it makes them dead easy to get really flat because there is no excess water underneath for the transfer to float on. I don't actually know if there is any merit to this, so I might be talking out of my backside, but that's how I do transfers, and it works for me, so maybe its worth a shot?
Hi! I really benefitted from the first version of the video and I'm super excited to try out this method! Just curious, how moist should the brush by after using the moistening pad? I live in a relatively hot country, so I find my paints dry very quickly or when I drybrush, I keep getting a very grainy texture which is gets worse after multiple layers for the "light highlights". Just wondering do you have any advice? Thank you! :)
Hey dude, thanks! If check our our ultimate drybrush guide, and airbrush smooth blend videos, they're packed with info on just how much moisture, ways to fix mistakes, or spot where things can go wrong etc, if they don't answer all your queries let me know and I'll be happy to sort you out :)
Going to be starting this tomorrow! I don’t have any Hydra blue however. Any tips on what else to use? I only have GW paints ! I love the brushes also so glad I have a set !
New to the hobby, bought my first kit a few days ago. Love the videos. How do you do the base you initially started with? Is it primed then a light coat of the first color you mixed?
I finished my great unclean one looks wicked man! I am now doing a gold armored roboute guilliman and the armor using your brushes has come out superbly! These series d take a hammering and stay in shape amazing 👍
@@ArtisOpus hahaha I am finishing all detail work on the big man as I type this man , but as I said I started with base dark bronze and just went softly, gently through the golds to extreme edge highlight of vellejo silver well happy with how the armor has come out man! Where can I send them to you happily share them...👍
Would doombull brown be a good substitute for the early stages if you were painting a squad/army and want a bit more consistency? Fantastic video as always.
Hey Patrick, not really man, it's too light, I'd highly recommend just mixing up a batch of whatever mix you prefer, if approaching at an army level it saves time, and promotes coherency :)
Citadels Lahmian Medium is very good for as a matte medium finish. As with all Citadel washes, it’s best to shake them very well to reduce gloss. In fact, the more you shake Citadel washes the more matte the finish.
I am definetly gonna try this, I have always wanted a Blood angels army, but just the thought of painting them killed the project every time I tried. I will do some extra highlighting on the raised areas/ where they are normally put. Just to give them some more oomph! Perhaps only to the Leaders at first, so the mood does not get killed again.
Sounds sensible dude, I approach my armies pretty obsessively to try and make sure I don't hobby-guilt my way into not enjoying my hobby. You could always do everyone similarly, see how it looks, and they go and fancy up characters?
Thanks, dude! All of our tutorials are more about the method than the colours so you can take this in any direction you wanted by mixing things a bit👌😊
Genuinely don't know buddy, I tend to find pretty reference photos and do my own take on them, both can look great, I'm not sure if there's a background reason behind it :)
Awesome video, as always! Did find this especially interesting since I've got the BA's from Space Hulk to paint in the near future :D Will probably try to make the armour less orange and deeper red though.
Fantastic but please leave the finished model on a slow rotate turntable at the end. They are cheap, easy to light and allow people to see the model in focus closeup in its entirety
There isn't one dude, a deep contrast (leviadan) mixed in with their deepest blue is the best equivalent, don't use too much of the contrast, it'll get very wet/too inky :)
And remember, even if you see Artis Opus painting it without the head and arms, paint the head allong you paint the body. Or you will just repeat the same mistake i did, and the helmet will be a sligtly different tone. XD
Oh no, good point! Hopefully, it's not something that a couple of glazers can't fix, remember it's ok for the head to be a bit brighter as it is a focal point and the top of the model😊
It's good to see these, and I know you're using it to advertise your products, but at some points it really seems like a hammer->nail issue. Ie. When you're a hammer, everything looks like a nail. Eg. Your shading of the recesses would have been much better with glazing.
It's also about a difficulty level thing, glazes done fast require everything at the perfect level, and a fair degree of knowledge or skill, this approach may not be 'superior' but it is easier to not screw up for beginners, by a long, long way. Take our power sword tutorial for example - it's again maybe not quite as good as a flawlessly glazed sword, but it took 10 minutes, and anyone can do it :)
Lol sorry for the no context comment, at 26:09 you said that the pva was looking suspect and I just had to make the stupid among us joke because, someone has to right? (;
You lied i bought the brushes, watched the videos and still cant paint for shit..:) No but seriously its really hard when new to not have the paint dry on you becouse im to slow or the brush to have to much water so the paint leave small bubbles.
Haa :D practise practise practise! rewatching this one a few times should really help dude, I do quite a lot to avoid the most common mistakes in drybrushing. 2 optional tips: 1. Go back to terrain 2. Go back to vehicles It's easier on larger stuff to start with, and particularly terrain helps you let go, and disassociate with incorrect ideas from years of built up paint experience :)
@@ArtisOpus Im painting a dreadnaught now but its also a big piece that i dont want to "ruin". getting some terrain soon though might help keep up the good work.
What did you think? What power armoured marine should we do next? Red armour paint bundle available here: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/artis-opus-bundles/artis-opus-blood-angels-armour
Tartan.
Great job, man, as allways :D Please do Black Legion space marine, thanks.
Death wing would be nice
I just returned to painting minis a few weeks ago after a 20-year hiatus, largely because of videos like this one. Thanks for doing this. I followed this more or less as closely as I could, and I ended up with one of the best minis I have ever painted. This technique is fun and produces excellent results.
Cheers
My dude. Made my day! Our pleasure ☺️
This tutorial is simply one of the best “how to paint red” vids I’ve seen.
Wow, thank you!❤
I love seeing more accessible methods to get nice looking finishes like this. It isn't how I paint, but I also am painting just to paint. Anything that makes the hobby more approachable and helps people get awesome looking models is good in my book.
Have you considered getting a paint handle with an arm? Something like the Rathcore holder. I notice you have a lot of contact with the top of the models while you're painting, a bracing arm would let you still pinch down to get a stable grip on the model but would stop you from having to actually touch the painted surfaces. I can't imagine you're not getting at least occasional damage or issues from that.
It's a good question man, also super glad you enjoyed the tutorial, sorry for the delay!
The holders are a real issue, I love them (especially the pretty/nice to hold Rathcore ones!) but drybrushing is very tactile, and physical, you lose control, stability, and also the mini moves more, which dramatically reduces drybrush final quality.
If you pinned the hell out of something, that was chunky it could work, though, or if you're doing 'finishing stages' drybrushing.
@@ArtisOpus fair points. Though I generally move models to an actual holder once base work is done. I don't drybrush a ton but when I do I generally consider it an intermediate step before finish work. For things like airbrushing, drybrushing, initial oil washes, and the like I just keep models on a cork or tacked to a base.
I mostly paint one offs and display models, but I've actually been working on a Death Guard army just as an experiment in efficiency. I'm enjoying seeing if I can come up with an easily repeatable, efficient process to put models out at a good pace but to a high standard. While not exactly what you generally do I've had great success in creating the base green with some usage of drybrushing. It's about half a dozen steps from prime to the green being done but the drybrushing has actually let me get away without needing to edge highlight at all. Plus I've been able to sneak in some soft radial highlights to reinforce what is already there from the airbrush work.
I diverge some after that into oil washes. I'm kind of surprised you don't make use of them. They are extraordinarily easy and look great, which seems to sort of be your jam. Over a soft drybrush they also tend hugely smooth any graininess that you happen to end up with.
I've been watching you for a long time now and it still amazies me how much of a freak you are with a brush and make hard things look so easy and simple a real da Vinci of the miniature world. Love the work keep it up
I think I have watched 3/4 of your videos and this one is the best imo. Because you are drybrushing on flat area, without having any texture, and keeping recesses dark. I spent sooooo many time trying to fully paint an ork skin like this and I never got something nice. I guess I'll keep trying tomorrow ...
I would love to see the same technique on a green skin !
Cheers
Cheers, buddy! Just be careful, use the dampening pad, and don't rush!
@@ArtisOpus In fact I did a pretty good one today haha. Testing with black and white then with differents green. Result is pretty close to my layering technique so now I need to choose when using layering or drybrushing on flat surfaces ^^
In true Blood Ravens fashion, I shall be using this How to Paint guide for my own purposes. Not to worry though. It was a gift.
😅😅😅
Man I absolutely love the way your Blood Angel marine turned out! New to painting and I have done standard painting like from a wet pallet but dry brushing is something I am trying next, wanting to see how both styles turn out!
My chapter getting more love is something I can't possibly complain about - love the dark purple-ish shadows on this one
Thanks, Frank! I really like the end result here, think it'd have a *load* of potential on a vehicle, too :)
Amazing. Looking forward to try this out as my Series D just arrived! Quick question: When applying initial base coat via stippling, is it just a case of dampening the drybrush, and then just dip in the paint like so in video (paint is not thinned down itself initially when taken out of bottle)?
Hey buddy, I only ever dip in carefully, check out our recent basecoating video, I tend to work from my palette, and I use a different heavy duty brush, to scoop the paint onto the palette.
Looks outstanding! I got back in to the hobby during covid times after not looking at a minature for about 27 years. There are so many painting tutorials on here but this one ifs probably my favourite. GW will hate it id imagine as they wouldnt sell have the quantity of merphiston red if everyone followed it!
:D Haa, you're now making me wonder about a sprayed red hybrid version. Welcome aboard mate, plenty more Drybrushing tutorials on our channel ;)
Trying to figure out how to batch paint the fastest and I believe you’ve given me a breakthrough
No worries, man, as I mentioned a lot in the video, there are a lot of steps here that could be skipped or condensed. Good luck😊
Would love to see a video dedicated to the varnish topic you covered at the end with examples of when to use Matt vs satin and the products that can be purchased...great work though and thanks.
This is always my thought with these videos. The model looks super great, but now do it another 40-50 times. Come on Artis Opus, do some full squads!
:) this is the type of thing we'll have to do very occasionally, our schedule/the hours in the day don't allow for it generally, it is something we see the importance of though, with restrictions easing a 24hour army vid is probably the most practical way to get some proper batching covered adequately, which will happen!
Noted Martin, we'll pop it on the list :)
@@ArtisOpus thanks mate I do appreciate you considering it and fully understand the difficulty in producing the amazing content that you do....on the plus side it's a poorly covered t9pic on you tube so you'll get plenty of attention 👍thanks for being wonderful!
This was great !! Also, Do u have any simpler space, marine painting, videos, ones where you use a very few number of colors? Thanks.
Excellent video again Byron. Don't know how you keep doing it lol
Loved the process. My dry brush always gets too much texture so I am guessing the paint was too dry.
Keep up the great work. I have nearly finished the first model of my own chapter so will try this technique on my next model.
Thanks for your continued support to the hobby painting community
Cheers man, this video should really help you avoid the issue, I go out of my way to ensure it doesn't happen, let us know how it goes!
Will you be doing a drybrushing tutorial for Plague Marines?
Also what are some good alternatives to that dark blue paint you've used?
This is a nice evolution of the previous technique. What I'd really love to see though, is if you could build up from a base coat to the final actual color on the last highlights. Like using an Imperial Fist to go from a dark purple in the recesses and build up to yellow on the very last highlight. Use a tech marine or Centurion so you can build the purple to a cool color on other parts of the model.
I'm pretty sure youtube bugged and deleted our reply to this one, given that we gave it a like, and a love! That's a great idea dude, I'll hold it in mind in a future power armour vid!
Looks fantastic. It would be interesting to see how you would apply this to an army, or even just to a whole squad.
With this much mixing I'd be worried about things not looking consistent across the army - but im sure you have methods for that.
Hey Andrew, time's the main issue for this, I work a pretty hectic schedule :).
2 top tips though:
1.) Stages done over squads, not single minis
2.) Make up mix pots for mixed stages, saves time, and helps promote coherency!
@@ArtisOpus sounds like a video topic imo :D
Thank you for the video! To clarify--did you use a primer first (and if so), or is the first colour you used the primer?
Hi Byron I tried replicating this approach (first time dry brush). Roughly got the effects but the model is quite textured. I find the balance of removing paint enough vs keeping it damp quite challenging. Any tips you can share on this ?
This looks amazing! Probably the best BA paint scheme I've seen. Anyway I can get a similar (although I know not quite as good) look in less time? With washes? Great work!
If you want it like this you have to use the same method dude, but you can absolutely skip some steps! Jumping between mixes to the next colour, maybe just using a tiny bit of previous colour in there, you can do 1/2 the stages and still get a solid job :)
Un merci de France 🇫🇷. J'utilise les pinceaux Artis Opus! Ils sont géniaux. Encore merci pour vos vidéos.
Mon plaisir! Merci pour votre soutien
Don't know if you are still seeing comments on this video. But on the old blood angels video you kind of started each step stippling on the brighter parts, then drybrushing all over. Do you do recommend now just starting with less on brush and go right into dry brushing like in this video? Thanks for the videos any help would be appreciated just trying to make my minis look better
Great question, mate, you can actually do both, just to be super safe, it's more - 'If you do this and make a mistake it'll be easier to fix' than a necessity - starting in the brightest bits, so essentially down to personal preference/confidence/what you're most happy doing :)
I hope that helps? Let me know in another comment, YT is awful for conversation notifications, I miss a lot of replies to replies.
Quality is bang on. I want to try this method, but get closer to box art colour. This one seems darker? Is it the way its painted, lighting or the paints used?
Could I drybrush the Meph red and evil sun's scarlet then edge highlight fore dragon bright?
Absolutely man, just shift each paint one step sooner in the process, if that makes sense?
@@ArtisOpus yeah, it does. Thanks, I'll give it a go
Hi, what wash did you use on the bolter? Nuln oil? So the metal part of the bolter was just game air silver and the wash? Thanks!
the super dark shadows look really cool, might well be stealing that idea for my ork army! for the transfers, maybe try just dipping the transfer in the water, wipe excess off on the rim of your water pot, then leave the transfer on the bench for that small amount of water to soak through the backing paper, it takes a little longer, and they can be harder to move around on the surface, but it makes them dead easy to get really flat because there is no excess water underneath for the transfer to float on. I don't actually know if there is any merit to this, so I might be talking out of my backside, but that's how I do transfers, and it works for me, so maybe its worth a shot?
Worth noting that adding blue to the red makes for a brown. It's one of those things you can only do with pigments, and it's amazing.
A very good point, and yes, always feels like magic :D
Hi! I really benefitted from the first version of the video and I'm super excited to try out this method! Just curious, how moist should the brush by after using the moistening pad? I live in a relatively hot country, so I find my paints dry very quickly or when I drybrush, I keep getting a very grainy texture which is gets worse after multiple layers for the "light highlights". Just wondering do you have any advice? Thank you! :)
Hey dude, thanks! If check our our ultimate drybrush guide, and airbrush smooth blend videos, they're packed with info on just how much moisture, ways to fix mistakes, or spot where things can go wrong etc, if they don't answer all your queries let me know and I'll be happy to sort you out :)
@@ArtisOpus Gotcha, thank you very much!! :)
Going to be starting this tomorrow! I don’t have any Hydra blue however. Any tips on what else to use? I only have GW paints ! I love the brushes also so glad I have a set !
New to the hobby, bought my first kit a few days ago. Love the videos. How do you do the base you initially started with? Is it primed then a light coat of the first color you mixed?
Thanks, buddy, welcome aboard! Exactly that yes! Good luck, let us know how it goes😊🤞
I finished my great unclean one looks wicked man! I am now doing a gold armored roboute guilliman and the armor using your brushes has come out superbly! These series d take a hammering and stay in shape amazing 👍
Oh man, share share share! I'd love to see both your finished Papa, and the wip Guilliman! Let us know where we can see them :)
@@ArtisOpus hahaha I am finishing all detail work on the big man as I type this man , but as I said I started with base dark bronze and just went softly, gently through the golds to extreme edge highlight of vellejo silver well happy with how the armor has come out man! Where can I send them to you happily share them...👍
@@ArtisOpus doing Be'lakor next....thats crying out for an Artis Opus Series D that model man haha 👊😃
Would doombull brown be a good substitute for the early stages if you were painting a squad/army and want a bit more consistency? Fantastic video as always.
Hey Patrick, not really man, it's too light, I'd highly recommend just mixing up a batch of whatever mix you prefer, if approaching at an army level it saves time, and promotes coherency :)
Great video mate thanks heaps for this. Also my order made it safe and sound to AUS thank you :)
Amazing to hear, dude, thanks so much for your support! Hope the brushes serve you well😊❤
Citadels Lahmian Medium is very good for as a matte medium finish. As with all Citadel washes, it’s best to shake them very well to reduce gloss. In fact, the more you shake Citadel washes the more matte the finish.
Very good point, dude! 😊Can't overstate how much of a difference this makes.
Great Videos! I've ordered my drybrush set a few days ago and it's hard to be patient. XD
how do you keep citadel paints so liquid for so long on your palette, do you thin them with medium inside their pots or is there another trick ?
I live in the UK, and I work fast :D are you from sunnier climates?
@@ArtisOpus Paris, i guess the air is drier here ^^'
Brown to red; neat idea. Red is prolly one of the harder colors to paint. Your latest one looks more dramatic.
Thanks man, can be done with loads of different bases if they're deep colours, green, purple, etc :)
Could you maybe do a tutorial for grey armour? I just got the series D set and want to give it a go
I am definetly gonna try this, I have always wanted a Blood angels army, but just the thought of painting them killed the project every time I tried.
I will do some extra highlighting on the raised areas/ where they are normally put. Just to give them some more oomph! Perhaps only to the Leaders at first, so the mood does not get killed again.
Sounds sensible dude, I approach my armies pretty obsessively to try and make sure I don't hobby-guilt my way into not enjoying my hobby.
You could always do everyone similarly, see how it looks, and they go and fancy up characters?
Would you do grey knights unit besides the big model. Would be cool to see use some gw paints as I assume more of us are using them
I’d love to see this on one of the new grav tanks see how it’s possible to get it on those large flat areas
I may have a Repulsor already assembled 😉
@@ArtisOpus amazing! I may also be looking at branching back into 40k at Christmas and the blood angels combat patrol box happens to have one too
I would use this for the flesh tearers more than the angels, great job regardless
Thanks, dude! All of our tutorials are more about the method than the colours so you can take this in any direction you wanted by mixing things a bit👌😊
This turned out great! do you think you'll do more of these "chapter revisits'?
It's definitely warranted! A year is plenty of time to learn :D
I'm new to WH40k. Why have you painted the aquila gold. I've seen some people paint it black. What's the difference?
Genuinely don't know buddy, I tend to find pretty reference photos and do my own take on them, both can look great, I'm not sure if there's a background reason behind it :)
@@ArtisOpus I see, thanks for the reply 🙂
@@eternlredd Our pleasure, good luck painting yours, be they black or gold! :)
Looks great!
Thanks!😊
Another awesome vid 👏🏼
Glad you enjoyed! Thanks!😊
Awesome video, as always!
Did find this especially interesting since I've got the BA's from Space Hulk to paint in the near future :D
Will probably try to make the armour less orange and deeper red though.
Cheers, dude! I can't think of better Blood Angels to use this on! Let us know how it goes😊
@@ArtisOpus Will put some pictures your way once I start them :D
Could we get a death company video by chance? If not I'll just watch some black amour
Perhaps in the future, dude, we can always revisit Black Armour as it's such a frequently needed skill😊👌
Sei un vero artista!
Fantastic but please leave the finished model on a slow rotate turntable at the end. They are cheap, easy to light and allow people to see the model in focus closeup in its entirety
Praise the Blood
Always😊
Brilliant video would be able to do one for deathwing maybe at some point please 👍
I would love to see how you would do a black vehicle video
Interesting suggestion, not the first person to ask for black after watching this.. death company on the brain?😊
@@ArtisOpus Mines for my partner Vicki’s Raven Guard
What is the GW equivalent to huldra blue?
There isn't one dude, a deep contrast (leviadan) mixed in with their deepest blue is the best equivalent, don't use too much of the contrast, it'll get very wet/too inky :)
How about some Red Scorpions???
YOu need to get some micro-sol for those decals.
I have some! Got some great tips recently, practise makes perfect :D
Dry brushing Sensei
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And remember, even if you see Artis Opus painting it without the head and arms, paint the head allong you paint the body. Or you will just repeat the same mistake i did, and the helmet will be a sligtly different tone. XD
Oh no, good point! Hopefully, it's not something that a couple of glazers can't fix, remember it's ok for the head to be a bit brighter as it is a focal point and the top of the model😊
I've already trowh them into the isopropilic alcohol xD. I will try again.
It's good to see these, and I know you're using it to advertise your products, but at some points it really seems like a hammer->nail issue. Ie. When you're a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
Eg. Your shading of the recesses would have been much better with glazing.
It's also about a difficulty level thing, glazes done fast require everything at the perfect level, and a fair degree of knowledge or skill, this approach may not be 'superior' but it is easier to not screw up for beginners, by a long, long way.
Take our power sword tutorial for example - it's again maybe not quite as good as a flawlessly glazed sword, but it took 10 minutes, and anyone can do it :)
Lol sorry for the no context comment, at 26:09 you said that the pva was looking suspect and I just had to make the stupid among us joke because, someone has to right? (;
OH HAA! I like basing, but not that much :D
When the pva is suspect 😳
The PVA? I don't understand :) Let me know in another comment, YT is awful for conversation notifications, I miss a lot of replies to replies.
I like this but find the red too washed out
A quick glaze (can be a contrast) after is a great way to bring back luminosity
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those are teracota marines!! not blood angels!! nice job thought!
Thanks, man! As ever it's a method, not a recipe, so this is something that should be pretty easy to adapt to taste😊
with red paint. end of the video. thank me later ;)
You lied i bought the brushes, watched the videos and still cant paint for shit..:) No but seriously its really hard when new to not have the paint dry on you becouse im to slow or the brush to have to much water so the paint leave small bubbles.
Haa :D practise practise practise! rewatching this one a few times should really help dude, I do quite a lot to avoid the most common mistakes in drybrushing.
2 optional tips:
1. Go back to terrain
2. Go back to vehicles
It's easier on larger stuff to start with, and particularly terrain helps you let go, and disassociate with incorrect ideas from years of built up paint experience :)
@@ArtisOpus Im painting a dreadnaught now but its also a big piece that i dont want to "ruin". getting some terrain soon though might help keep up the good work.