I lived in Italy for 3 years around 1975. Watched a black and white film about Fiat. I flashed on that from 40 years ago when you were ratcheting those bolts. Crazy what we unknowingly carry around in our heads.
I worked on an assembly line at Hewlett Packard building printers. Every assembly line was constructed using 80/20 aluminum. For every new printer, a completely new assembly line was constructed and that material made building it, breaking it down and adjusting it possible. I love that you used it as your primary framing material.
I am thrilled to hear your story, Don! Yes, the 8020 makes this a fine approach to van building, OPTIONS! …and believe it or not, I am progressing through this build with a similarly delicate hand as your printer assembly.
I love the fact that you're using existing holes instead of willy nilly drilling thru sheet metal. It maintains better structural integrity and is fully reversible if you have a design change. Excellent!
Agreed. A very important rule to follow. As I said in an earlier video, I've only made one new hole. Every other has simply been enlarged slightly to accommodate the rivnut.
Ingenious, would love to stop by one day to meet you, and check out your shop. I absolutely love your videos from every perspective, Overall quality, informative, philosophical, and practicality. You truly are an artist working on a moving medium.
Thank you for your kind words and support. I truly appreciate it! Unfortunately, I cannot arrange for shop visits or I wouldn’t get any work done. I hope you understand.
@@HumbleRoad I absolutely understand, I work in a lab and know how distracting tours and visitors can be. Your use of 80/20 to such a degree has made me rethink my design to the point of downloading many of their step files to get super creative. Combining those with custom and machined parts should have done interesting outcomes. You are definitely an inspiration.
Sir, you are a genius! I've been pondering for days over how I will mount my eye-level cabinets. I just saw your idea of using aluminum angle and carriage bolts to clamp the 80/20 horizontal brace into place. I quickly grabbed a piece of scrap to try it, and it works beautifully! Thanks!!
It's been more then 10 years that I don't have television... So I mostly watch UA-cam all the time ... This might be the best well made channel I've seen so far. The content and tips provided are top shelves and the presentation is so addictive, I can't wait to see it all. Thanks George.
Looks great the only things I plan to do differently is use Nyloc Nuts, and where possible have the overhead cabinets be supported by framing that extends to the floor, and where possible have left and right sides tied together forming a sort of roll cage. If there is an accident this 80/20 stuff laid out in such a way should help.
I did look like a mad scientist! I was so excited to get onto the build that morning, I said, "not taking the time to brush my hair!" I will reconsider that tack in the future..
I am using 80-20 on my build as well and that main wall bracket mounting is genius!!! Thank you so much for the idea!!! I will credit you when I am at that part of my build!!!! 🙏 🙏 🙏
Another great video of your progress. You’re incredibly generous sharing all the details for others to replicate in their builds. I’ve no carpentry skills whatsoever but really appreciate your craftsmanship and attention to detail. Can’t wait to get my own “Humble 🐝 “❤️
George, Love the transparent walls!!! Reminds me of Scotty using transparent Aluminum to hold the Whales in Star Trek! Keep up the great work and engineering design. Mike
Thanks Georges. You gave me inspiration for my futur Camper van. I will put your new shower at the end of the galey near the sink with toilet under the sink like you did but I will have an armoire in the shower on an inge (+wheels on teak floor) with the galey that will create an intimity wall when open, just like those secret door in the movies. My water tank might be in there too. It can also only be counter top high. Thanks Georges.
Glad you woke up from that futon sleep ready for action! Must have had a good, creative dream to go with the build! As always, look forward to your updates! Best wishes, and keep putting your dreams into action. It is good for all us to see someone's dreams come true!
I got the 80/20 sample kit and was pretty impressed. I won’t be able to get a van for a few years, so I may start with creating a desk that I’ve had in my head for years. I was really excited when I saw you were going to be using it in the van build. It like we tapped into the same source for our ideas..... spooky.
Kenetube on youtube is just finishing up his 80/20 cabinets as well, but he's not using the "L" brackets, he's using something different (allen head) so you don't see the brackets... interesting but looks a lot more expensive as these connectors add up. Great work, George, I just received my riv-nut tool and some riv-nuts off Amazon.
All of my L-brackets will be hidden behind panels. A few in the front of the cabinet frames will have to be switched out for the blind corner fasteners from 80/20. I am waiting for another shipment from them...
There's a little trick to the riv-nut gun that I employ. After the full squeeze, I open the arms slightly and give the knob 3 quarter turns and squeeze again. It really locks it down. Just don't go too far or you will strip the threads.
Oh yea, those L brackets from 80/20 are just shy of $3.00 EACH! Same with the bridge plates! I will have used hundreds of each by the time I am finished. I figure I saved over $2K by making them up myself. And I have made several custom for my particular need.
after reviewing several different ways to mount Uppers, this seems the most ingenious and appropriate, Uppers are probably carrying less weight per Sqft etc. my question; are you still building the same way or have you modified at all. I was thinking in addition to the thermal break on the back side of the angle, some thermal break where the angle contacts the 80/20. would this increase chance of bolts loosening ?? cheers and thanks for all the great info over years
Don't know if you like to circle back to old videos and new comments like these, but I am curious if you have updated your technique of attaching side rails for upper cabinets from using angle brackets. Maybe on another more recent video? This certainly looks strong enough. Just curious as I am about to start this part of the build.
The horizontal panels, that are next to the wall, did you only press the angle brackets down? So no real mounting of those? What about insulation and thermal bridges? both on the wall and the ceiling? I have seen others mount a plastic spacer - but how to do that with the way you mount? Really amazing job you did - and prefer your way of mounting, instead of first mounting an angle bracket and then the alurails
Yes, the support assembly slides down onto the chassis edge. Then when the bolts on the other side are tightened, it grips the chassis edge tight! I use a layer of sheet rubber wherever my aluminum touches the chassis.
@@HumbleRoad Ahh, yes, I see the vinyl you put on the wall. And the bolts are not enough to care about thermal bridge? I guess, there are loads of other minor bridges from factory, so that is not something to worry about? What about the connection to the roof - did you put vinyl on that one too? Really, really amazing job you have done - I am sooo much looking forward to trying it out myself - can I only get half as good a job as yours, I am pretty happy camper :-)
I'm a little confused as to what the bolts are actually doing. Are you tightening the mount to the bar and it just hangs on the van? Or do the bolts actually tighten the bar to the van? I love the install and would rather do this. Could you expand a little more on how you are making the mounts? Thanks so much.
Did you know that the heat or cold from the outside of the van will transfer to the 80/20 frame work. It's best to isolate the 80/20 from the beams of the van with some kind gasket or insulation.
I did know that! In fact, @1:37 in this video, you will see me explain how I adhered heavy mass vinyl strips to the backside of the 80/20 rail. Every piece of 80/20 that is touching the van body will have heavy mass vinyl in-between acting as a thermal break.
Thank you for the excellent videos that open up possibilities. What flexible vinyl panels did you consider as backer for overhead Cabinets? Where did you source it? Love the idea of not blocking up the top area to keep access o the wires open. Look forward to a response. Thanks!
Great build series: content, clarity, entertaining. But how does your slide-on support bracket for your upper cabinet compensate for the angle of the van walls? The slopped ceiling?
Thanks for your channel. It's been a really great help and I've learned a lot. I am hoping to copy your method for building upper cabinets from this video and I have a question. It has to do with the ceiling placement after you've build the cabinets and the order of operations. So in this video you have the frame built and the upper beam is bolted into the ceiling directly. The beam itself is 1.5". The ceiling is going to have some width to it to that's going to eat into the 1.5" covering some of it. So I'm imagining when you look straight at the cabinet frame once the ceiling and insulation is in place, you'll only see about half of it. Are you with me so far? Okay so now you need to make a cabinet face and that's going to swing upward. How do you make sure that it doesn't intersect the ceiling? Do you build the frame first, then the ceiling around it (so no ceiling inside the cabinet, cover that some other way) and then cut the cabinet face to exactly match? That sounds doable. If it's face framed I guess it will never swing above the highest point of the face of the cabinet? Am I right there? And what if I were to theoretically use 1" 8020 for this build. That would mean that significantly less of the 8020 is protruding down from below where the ceiling ends. How much is too little? I am guessing if that number is negative... meaning the 8020 is thinner than the ceiling boards that's going to cause problems for the cabinet hardware. But what if they were flush? So the ceiling panels came down an inch and the t slot from the upper cabinet was flush with the ceiling... would it still work? I'd love to see a detailed display of how you accomplish this aspect of the build the next time you do it, perhaps in the new Transits you're building. You do a great job of showing all your techniques in such detail and how to transfer bolt hole patterns from piece to part, etc. I think if you covered this topic it'd make a huge difference to my understanding before I build it. Thanks so muuch!
You Sir are a master at everything you do. Wow...absolutely wow. June, you my dear are a very lucky and proud wife. This is amazing and i wish i could work in your factory some day...oh great and noble, wise van constructor. Hehe
Always impressed at what you come up with! Once you get the factory up and running, and need are in need or a regional salesman...I want to talk! Keep up the great work!..and the uploads!! HA!!
You got a deal! And that's no joke. I believe there is a strong niche market for the small fully custom builder. My first career was me photographing NOTHING BUT watches for advertising. Talk about a niche!
For sure! combine Globalism with the evolution of tech and materials, I think the niche economy will only grow and thrive here in North America. I currently manage an old fashioned Vacuum store, and specialize in SAN/JAN supplies...minus the dust and dinginess! lol Its unbelievable how much of need there is in our small community for these products. I think you are at the right time and place for your current venture. The market for getting out and exploring; taking the roads less traveled; and spending quality time with loved ones is making a come back! Especially with such strong and innovative (yet simple) building techniques and materials. I am a big fan of Advanced RV products, but you seem to be providing a new and dare I say "better" approach. I really dig what your doing, and am thankful you are sharing it with us all. Take care!
While I personally have sensed the signs of things to come, most travelers say it's not a problem. Couple that with the fact that, IMHO, the Sprinter is the best platform for the long term, it's my forever van.
nice work man. very interesting choice to use 80/20. are you worried at all that things may shake loose? using any kind of "loctite"? thanks for posting these videos!
I'm going to be building out a 78 American Clipper RV & want to use the 80/20 method you're showing, but what would I fasten everything to? The shell is a fiberglass mold, that has 2"x 2" wood framing everywhere.
George, firstly, another great video. Sharing the myriad details that go into a quality build is sure to be a huge help to others. I especially love the incorporation of all the hardware stills. It really adds to the video. Lastly, one question: Like a level, a plumb bob is relative. That is, it indicates plumb (exactly perpendicular to level) as determined by gravity. Therefore, if the van ain't level, longitudinally (front to back) and/or laterally (side to side), plumb will be out. Did you level the van as you're building? Personally, I rely upon square and precise measurements from known points around the van/truck/skoolie/trailer (and confirm correctness by measuring from at least two points when establishing the origin for things, such as a run of cabinets). Just wondering how you handle this.
I too rely on hard measurements. I have a few different types of squares in the van at all times. However, I will answer your question with a question; having watched many or most of my videos, do you think I leveled the van? ;-)
does that vinyl act as a thermal break? otherwise it seems like connecting that directly to the frame could turn that whole structure to a conductor with the outside.
@@HumbleRoad Thanks for the reply. I wandered in to your series while looking up info on 8020 and so am backing up and watching the whole series, so as not to miss anything. Very informative and fun to watch!
Just wondering how you put in a vapour barrier around where these cabinets are fitted to the frame? Or did you not use one? We are going to use your method for our cabinets, bed, kitchen unit, and shower unit, but we are just wondering how our vapour barrier will still be effective if we can't get it behind these aluminium extrusion bars fitted to the wall + ceiling.
I am wondering if that framing would work in my Travato. I will have the rear twin beds. I want to mod the drivers side next to the galley, but keep all the workings underneath the bed present, ( it is necessary, not really a choice ) It would need to be attached to a ridge that is along the side wall or structure of the van, and be just below the level of the windows. The support structure underneath would need to be easily removed in case all the workings under the current bed needed maintenance access. I would simply remove the sleeping system, and build my countop module over the framing of the bed frame. So, it will not be level with current galley counter, but just at lower level of the windows. At the end, just in front of the bathroom wall I want to put a freezer, one of the RV chest freezers on slides, so I can slide it out. So that whole wall would be turned into a countertop, with the chest freezer at the end next to bathroom wall. The support legs would come easily out so maintenance could be accessed, and the counter , something that looks nice, easily removed, possibly even in sections off the top of the frame. I could paint the frame, and simply put baskets underneath for storage, with some sort of system to keep them from sliding. I only need one bed, and right now the second bed is simply wasted space, when I have need for more countertop.
Can definitely be accomplished. Every time I see a twin bed class B and consider a single person, I want to rip out the second bed and put in a workstation! But one of my main rules in modification is; it must be returned to factory state easily and with little to no damage. So you have to design accordingly.
Late to the party here - but: I notice you are not using locknuts, and those don't look like lock washers, AND I don't see any Loctite. How are you preventing the nuts from vibrating loose?
I just got my shipment of 80/20 and starting on my upper cabinets. When you mounted the upper rail you slid the 80/20 onto the carriage bolts. I am thinking of using the Button head socket screws and using the jig I bought to drill access holes in the 80/20 so I can tighten them. This way I could remove the whole cabinet if needed. Any thoughts as to if this is a workable idea? I know I will have to be precise when I drill the access holes. Is that maybe why you went the way you did? Simplicity?
Exactly right! Drilling the access holes is hard to aligned then you are committed to that placement. In fact, I had to make a change to my galley cabinet. Had to slide it aft just a bit. No problem. Options!
Hi Humble 👋 I have kept your water tank solutions at the fore front of my “interesting problems to think about ” list. Take a look at todays vid from RV Lifestyle about an ozone point of use water filtration system. I am skeptical pending technical standards and hard data but I understand the chemistry of ozone. Health Canada is skeptical as well esp if ozone treatments are used on hard products. If the research data supports the claims of this product I would be happy to evaluate it myself. Right now I travel with my own water, no tank 😬. Do you think a system like this would work in the new van?
At this point, this is what I am considering for my fresh water AS WELL AS my grey water. www.buyultraviolet.com/bio-logic-uv-water-purifier-1-5-pure-water-pack
If my grey water can be purified back to what is legally deemed "clear water", then I can use it to wash the van, rinse my bike, or just let it out on the ground.
Humble Road Holee! 😳 I have assessed many methods for “cleaning water” for alternative living situations on land but for an rv? Do you have a process or unit in mind?
Humble Road Hi again 👋 which model will you choose? DC and micron? Do you know the draw? My experience would suggest 5 micron may be better in an rv situation. Filters will clog less and process more volume and need to be replaced on a more reasonable schedule. I worked for years on my rural well water that had some locally occurring sulphur. I ended up not spending $$ on an ultraviolet system (did use particulate and carbon filters replaced often) and running food grade hydrogen peroxide through the entire system when needed. Now the septic/black water that was another kettle of...lol 😂
I will most likely build my own system. I might purchase the UV portion of the build from this company. But I am hell bent on reusing that grey water in some fashion. I want never again to enter a dump station!
for winter van life, won't the attachment of aluminium/bolts to the metal van frame, have the cold come into the van? In canada we get days of -25 celcius at times.
Looking at the 80/20. Here we can get them in 40x40, 30x30 or 20x20 Is there any reason not to go with the 20x20? I am thinking, that the stress level is quite low, since nothing is heavy (for example I imagine that the wight in the wall cupboards will be around max 10kg per 50 cm, lets just say 30kg to be in the safe range - that is still not a lot of load). What am I missing, since I see most people use 40x40? 20x20 is way below half the weight, and below half the cost - so if no other reason, I would prefer to use those - but I know that all you do has been well thought of
I will be adding more thinsulate to the smaller areas I did not yet address. Waiting to do some wire runs. Then mass vinyl layer over all. The vinyl application will vary, depending on the area of the van. For instance; wherever there is a wall panel, it will be an assembly of for example Lauan backed with mass vinyl and wrapped in fabric. An encapsulated wall board that is easily removed.
Another quick question: Will you be using a vapor barrier between your Thinsulate and paneling or leaving open for air flow? Hopefully this question makes sense... I'm very interested in your take on the air flow vs vapor barrier discussion. I *think* you lean toward air flow wherever possible, even in insulated areas, but I'm hoping you'll clarify.
The panel will be completely backed, edge to edge with heavy mass vinyl. And then front wrapped with some sort of decorative fabric. That wall assembly will be buttoned to the van frame to act as the inner walls, yet remain easily removable. There will be air space behind the vinyl layer in and around the thinsulate. I do believe in air flow. I am careful to make sure there is no stale air anywhere in the van structure. Inside the walls, under the floor, between and around the appliances. Constant air flow will prevent moisture from turning into mold.
Sorry, I spend hours upon hours researching components and materials. My list is for me. If you’re watching my videos, I pretty much map out everything you need to do.
Thanks, Doug. Yes, I will have rear panels in each cabinet. coming up from the floor in the rear of the cabinet, up across the top and terminated behind the face. That panel will have mass vinyl on the back. The curve affords me a wire chase. And the panels are removable in case you want to do some additional work in the future. So rather than putting the vinyl insulation on the wall, then add the cabinet, I am incorporating it into the cabinet. The air gap behind adds to the insulate performance. In my little brain, anyway..
Several have expressed your sentiment. In an attempt to return to your good graces, I will be reading select passages from a well received article, "Paramecium, Friend Or Foe?"
I'm using all 5/16. 5/16 carriage bolts set in there nicely and are easily slid to place. You can get a 5/16 hex bolt in if you grind down one facet slightly. But it will not compress the profile flanges (which act on the locking characteristics) as well as a carriage or the 80/20 proprietary bolts.
Thanks so much George. I asked since I recall when you started on the floor you bought inch and a half and said you would hold it for a future projects. Thanks for the time you put in this project and for helping the rest of us learn. I wish you the best,! -Jim
I lived in Italy for 3 years around 1975. Watched a black and white film about Fiat. I flashed on that from 40 years ago when you were ratcheting those bolts. Crazy what we unknowingly carry around in our heads.
There might be more connection than just a random thought.
I worked on an assembly line at Hewlett Packard building printers. Every assembly line was constructed using 80/20 aluminum. For every new printer, a completely new assembly line was constructed and that material made building it, breaking it down and adjusting it possible. I love that you used it as your primary framing material.
I am thrilled to hear your story, Don! Yes, the 8020 makes this a fine approach to van building, OPTIONS! …and believe it or not, I am progressing through this build with a similarly delicate hand as your printer assembly.
I love the fact that you're using existing holes instead of willy nilly drilling thru sheet metal. It maintains better structural integrity and is fully reversible if you have a design change. Excellent!
Agreed. A very important rule to follow. As I said in an earlier video, I've only made one new hole. Every other has simply been enlarged slightly to accommodate the rivnut.
I have been watching with admiration, your van construction with 80/20 . You are an ABSOLUTE GENIUS!!
Ingenious, would love to stop by one day to meet you, and check out your shop. I absolutely love your videos from every perspective, Overall quality, informative, philosophical, and practicality. You truly are an artist working on a moving medium.
Thank you for your kind words and support. I truly appreciate it! Unfortunately, I cannot arrange for shop visits or I wouldn’t get any work done. I hope you understand.
@@HumbleRoad I absolutely understand, I work in a lab and know how distracting tours and visitors can be.
Your use of 80/20 to such a degree has made me rethink my design to the point of downloading many of their step files to get super creative. Combining those with custom and machined parts should have done interesting outcomes. You are definitely an inspiration.
Sir, you are a genius! I've been pondering for days over how I will mount my eye-level cabinets. I just saw your idea of using aluminum angle and carriage bolts to clamp the 80/20 horizontal brace into place. I quickly grabbed a piece of scrap to try it, and it works beautifully! Thanks!!
You are very welcome
It's been more then 10 years that I don't have television... So I mostly watch UA-cam all the time ... This might be the best well made channel I've seen so far. The content and tips provided are top shelves and the presentation is so addictive, I can't wait to see it all. Thanks George.
Thank you Jim. I am truly grateful for your praise. I'm working on the futon bed frame right now. Video next week!
after watching hundreds of build vids, your systems are far superior to any others I've seen.
Peter Hoffman thank you Peter!
Looks great the only things I plan to do differently is use Nyloc Nuts, and where possible have the overhead cabinets be supported by framing that extends to the floor, and where possible have left and right sides tied together forming a sort of roll cage. If there is an accident this 80/20 stuff laid out in such a way should help.
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together
I do.
I like how much you take time to think on how use 80/20 for almost everything. Very impressive Sir. Great work of the brain.
I try
I like the Balinese music and the mad scientist at work! Looking good. That forehead space is key--for taller folks makes such a difference.
I did look like a mad scientist! I was so excited to get onto the build that morning, I said, "not taking the time to brush my hair!" I will reconsider that tack in the future..
I am using 80-20 on my build as well and that main wall bracket mounting is genius!!! Thank you so much for the idea!!! I will credit you when I am at that part of my build!!!! 🙏 🙏 🙏
OMG.... OH MY GEORGE!! We love how those cabinet frames attach to the ceiling and walls! So genius!
Another great video of your progress. You’re incredibly generous sharing all the details for others to replicate in their builds. I’ve no carpentry skills whatsoever but really appreciate your craftsmanship and attention to detail. Can’t wait to get my own “Humble 🐝 “❤️
Yes, I want one too! 😁
Wow, upper cabinets aren't as deep as lowers! BRILLIANT!!!,
I sense a bit of sarcasm in your comment. True?
I have dreamed of building out a van with 80-20 extrusions. Now I get to actually see it done~!~
George, Love the transparent walls!!! Reminds me of Scotty using transparent Aluminum to hold the Whales in Star Trek! Keep up the great work and engineering design. Mike
:-D
Thanks Georges. You gave me inspiration for my futur Camper van. I will put your new shower at the end of the galey near the sink with toilet under the sink like you did but I will have an armoire in the shower on an inge (+wheels on teak floor) with the galey that will create an intimity wall when open, just like those secret door in the movies. My water tank might be in there too. It can also only be counter top high. Thanks Georges.
You've got the vision. Go! Jim, Go!
The precision of your build continues to astound me. Your wrists must have ached from all the wrench twists and turns.
Glad you woke up from that futon sleep ready for action! Must have had a good, creative dream to go with the build! As always, look forward to your updates! Best wishes, and keep putting your dreams into action. It is good for all us to see someone's dreams come true!
I got the 80/20 sample kit and was pretty impressed. I won’t be able to get a van for a few years, so I may start with creating a desk that I’ve had in my head for years. I was really excited when I saw you were going to be using it in the van build. It like we tapped into the same source for our ideas..... spooky.
FAB-U-LOUS!
love this 8020 material. great vid!
Thank you for your generous videos. I’m building my own MB In remote nor-Cal and need all the help I can get. You’re a true Sensei!
Great video and project. Thanks for sharing.
Another excellent video! And great repurposing of that 20" c-stand!
It’s breathtaking! Good job!
LOVE watching you.... how good you can do this. So 👏 awesome !
Is love to see a breakdown of costs at the end of all this.
Looking good!!
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️Outstanding, Thank you for sharing. This is built so well
Watching this was way more interesting than the futon episode! (Nyuk-Nyuk-Nyuk, Yourself!)
Wise guy!
Love it! I want to be able to whistle just like you George!
If you build something beautiful you will whistle!
I made a beautiful Son ... still can't whistle 😂
Absolutely great job! Fabulous!!!
Amazing!
Loving these. So good!
Kenetube on youtube is just finishing up his 80/20 cabinets as well, but he's not using the "L" brackets, he's using something different (allen head) so you don't see the brackets... interesting but looks a lot more expensive as these connectors add up. Great work, George, I just received my riv-nut tool and some riv-nuts off Amazon.
All of my L-brackets will be hidden behind panels. A few in the front of the cabinet frames will have to be switched out for the blind corner fasteners from 80/20. I am waiting for another shipment from them...
There's a little trick to the riv-nut gun that I employ. After the full squeeze, I open the arms slightly and give the knob 3 quarter turns and squeeze again. It really locks it down. Just don't go too far or you will strip the threads.
Oh yea, those L brackets from 80/20 are just shy of $3.00 EACH! Same with the bridge plates! I will have used hundreds of each by the time I am finished. I figure I saved over $2K by making them up myself. And I have made several custom for my particular need.
The “skeleton” is coming along nicely.
Dems bones, what is bones.
So I won't bump MY head! Nice. So you ARE selling it to me, George. Glad the mystery's over, lol..
I'm talkin' to you!
You are AMAZING! I wish I could get some of your expertise when I purchase my ProMaster 3500 HR Ext.
Stay in touch. We can work something out. Thanks for watching!
ABSOLUTELY!!
after reviewing several different ways to mount Uppers, this seems the most ingenious and appropriate, Uppers are probably carrying less weight per Sqft etc. my question; are you still building the same way or have you modified at all. I was thinking in addition to the thermal break on the back side of the angle, some thermal break where the angle contacts the 80/20. would this increase chance of bolts loosening ?? cheers and thanks for all the great info over years
love that idea! did you happen to weigh the material for giggles? you make it look so easy.....
I did a video on the weight of the galley, 66 lbs. Once I get the futon frame built, I will go re-weigh with all the aluminum and flooring.
What hinging did u choose? These look fantastic!
I hope we can buy those aluminum that u made up to install the 8020.
I find it incredible that anyone can give any of Humble Road’s video a thumbs down.
Haters are gonna hate, unfortunately
YT removed the down thumbs. We all will get participation medals, in lieu.
Welcome back! ;-)
Hit the thumbs up before even watching this. You’re that good 😊
Don't know if you like to circle back to old videos and new comments like these, but I am curious if you have updated your technique of attaching side rails for upper cabinets from using angle brackets. Maybe on another more recent video? This certainly looks strong enough. Just curious as I am about to start this part of the build.
Just did a recent video showing the angle clips to mount a wall cabinet
@@HumbleRoad you are a true gem to respond so diligently to questions, even on the old videos. I easily found the newer video. Thx loads.
the weight is really an important factor
This is great but how are the finish surfaces attached to the 2080 frame work?
There are a few ways to attach finished panels to the aluminum frame.
You are a bloody genius! I will prob steal some ideas from you.
Fabulous!
I love the videos. Perhaps I missed it but where do I find 8020 for sale at the best price?
Exceptional!
Very interesting! Love the details.
More good stuff….
The horizontal panels, that are next to the wall, did you only press the angle brackets down? So no real mounting of those?
What about insulation and thermal bridges? both on the wall and the ceiling? I have seen others mount a plastic spacer - but how to do that with the way you mount?
Really amazing job you did - and prefer your way of mounting, instead of first mounting an angle bracket and then the alurails
Yes, the support assembly slides down onto the chassis edge. Then when the bolts on the other side are tightened, it grips the chassis edge tight! I use a layer of sheet rubber wherever my aluminum touches the chassis.
@@HumbleRoad Ahh, yes, I see the vinyl you put on the wall. And the bolts are not enough to care about thermal bridge?
I guess, there are loads of other minor bridges from factory, so that is not something to worry about?
What about the connection to the roof - did you put vinyl on that one too?
Really, really amazing job you have done - I am sooo much looking forward to trying it out myself - can I only get half as good a job as yours, I am pretty happy camper :-)
I'm a little confused as to what the bolts are actually doing. Are you tightening the mount to the bar and it just hangs on the van? Or do the bolts actually tighten the bar to the van? I love the install and would rather do this. Could you expand a little more on how you are making the mounts? Thanks so much.
the bolts actually tighten the bar to the van. The whole thing just locks up.
Did you know that the heat or cold from the outside of the van will transfer to the 80/20 frame work. It's best to isolate the 80/20 from the beams of the van with some kind gasket or insulation.
I did know that! In fact, @1:37 in this video, you will see me explain how I adhered heavy mass vinyl strips to the backside of the 80/20 rail. Every piece of 80/20 that is touching the van body will have heavy mass vinyl in-between acting as a thermal break.
You've done a lot of great vids, but this is my favorite of all. So helpful!
Something therapeutic about the sound of a ratchet 😃
Word.
Nice work!!
It's like an erector set! So well thought out. You really got down to the nuts and bolts of it. :)
Thank you for the excellent videos that open up possibilities. What flexible vinyl panels did you consider as backer for overhead Cabinets? Where did you source it? Love the idea of not blocking up the top area to keep access o the wires open. Look forward to a response. Thanks!
POLY BOARD FROM Home Depot!
First to view the fabulousness of it all.
More videos, please 😉
Great build series: content, clarity, entertaining.
But how does your slide-on support bracket for your upper cabinet compensate for the angle of the van walls? The slopped ceiling?
Side wall is plumb. Ceiling angle provides for a slight cant on the cabinet face.
Thanks for your channel. It's been a really great help and I've learned a lot. I am hoping to copy your method for building upper cabinets from this video and I have a question. It has to do with the ceiling placement after you've build the cabinets and the order of operations. So in this video you have the frame built and the upper beam is bolted into the ceiling directly. The beam itself is 1.5". The ceiling is going to have some width to it to that's going to eat into the 1.5" covering some of it. So I'm imagining when you look straight at the cabinet frame once the ceiling and insulation is in place, you'll only see about half of it. Are you with me so far? Okay so now you need to make a cabinet face and that's going to swing upward. How do you make sure that it doesn't intersect the ceiling? Do you build the frame first, then the ceiling around it (so no ceiling inside the cabinet, cover that some other way) and then cut the cabinet face to exactly match? That sounds doable. If it's face framed I guess it will never swing above the highest point of the face of the cabinet? Am I right there? And what if I were to theoretically use 1" 8020 for this build. That would mean that significantly less of the 8020 is protruding down from below where the ceiling ends. How much is too little? I am guessing if that number is negative... meaning the 8020 is thinner than the ceiling boards that's going to cause problems for the cabinet hardware. But what if they were flush? So the ceiling panels came down an inch and the t slot from the upper cabinet was flush with the ceiling... would it still work? I'd love to see a detailed display of how you accomplish this aspect of the build the next time you do it, perhaps in the new Transits you're building. You do a great job of showing all your techniques in such detail and how to transfer bolt hole patterns from piece to part, etc. I think if you covered this topic it'd make a huge difference to my understanding before I build it. Thanks so muuch!
You Sir are a master at everything you do. Wow...absolutely wow. June, you my dear are a very lucky and proud wife. This is amazing and i wish i could work in your factory some day...oh great and noble, wise van constructor. Hehe
Always impressed at what you come up with! Once you get the factory up and running, and need are in need or a regional salesman...I want to talk! Keep up the great work!..and the uploads!! HA!!
You got a deal! And that's no joke. I believe there is a strong niche market for the small fully custom builder. My first career was me photographing NOTHING BUT watches for advertising. Talk about a niche!
For sure! combine Globalism with the evolution of tech and materials, I think the niche economy will only grow and thrive here in North America. I currently manage an old fashioned Vacuum store, and specialize in SAN/JAN supplies...minus the dust and dinginess! lol Its unbelievable how much of need there is in our small community for these products. I think you are at the right time and place for your current venture. The market for getting out and exploring; taking the roads less traveled; and spending quality time with loved ones is making a come back! Especially with such strong and innovative (yet simple) building techniques and materials. I am a big fan of Advanced RV products, but you seem to be providing a new and dare I say "better" approach. I really dig what your doing, and am thankful you are sharing it with us all. Take care!
I watched the other videos and you mentioned you had some issues finding diesel, so I’m wondering why you choose this sprinter?
While I personally have sensed the signs of things to come, most travelers say it's not a problem. Couple that with the fact that, IMHO, the Sprinter is the best platform for the long term, it's my forever van.
nice work man. very interesting choice to use 80/20. are you worried at all that things may shake loose? using any kind of "loctite"?
thanks for posting these videos!
Using split lock washers AND Loctite.
Humble Road Belt and braces!
leo p Ain't nothing coming loose on this build!
I'm going to be building out a 78 American Clipper RV & want to use the 80/20 method you're showing, but what would I fasten everything to? The shell is a fiberglass mold, that has 2"x 2" wood framing everywhere.
Hi-- how did you install wall panels behind the cabinet? Before or after final cabinet installation?
Keep watching my videos and all will become clear!
George, firstly, another great video. Sharing the myriad details that go into a quality build is sure to be a huge help to others.
I especially love the incorporation of all the hardware stills. It really adds to the video.
Lastly, one question: Like a level, a plumb bob is relative. That is, it indicates plumb (exactly perpendicular to level) as determined by gravity.
Therefore, if the van ain't level, longitudinally (front to back) and/or laterally (side to side), plumb will be out. Did you level the van as you're building?
Personally, I rely upon square and precise measurements from known points around the van/truck/skoolie/trailer (and confirm correctness by measuring from at least two points when establishing the origin for things, such as a run of cabinets). Just wondering how you handle this.
I too rely on hard measurements. I have a few different types of squares in the van at all times. However, I will answer your question with a question; having watched many or most of my videos, do you think I leveled the van? ;-)
does that vinyl act as a thermal break? otherwise it seems like connecting that directly to the frame could turn that whole structure to a conductor with the outside.
Yes, wherever the 8020 touches the van frame, there is a vinyl pad sandwiched in.
@@HumbleRoad Thanks for the reply. I wandered in to your series while looking up info on 8020 and so am backing up and watching the whole series, so as not to miss anything. Very informative and fun to watch!
@@marka7519 Thank you. I'm glad you wandered over to Humble Road! :-)
Just wondering how you put in a vapour barrier around where these cabinets are fitted to the frame? Or did you not use one?
We are going to use your method for our cabinets, bed, kitchen unit, and shower unit, but we are just wondering how our vapour barrier will still be effective if we can't get it behind these aluminium extrusion bars fitted to the wall + ceiling.
Continue watching the build series. All your questions are addressed!
I am wondering if that framing would work in my Travato. I will have the rear twin beds. I want to mod the drivers side next to the galley, but keep all the workings underneath the bed present, ( it is necessary, not really a choice ) It would need to be attached to a ridge that is along the side wall or structure of the van, and be just below the level of the windows. The support structure underneath would need to be easily removed in case all the workings under the current bed needed maintenance access. I would simply remove the sleeping system, and build my countop module over the framing of the bed frame. So, it will not be level with current galley counter, but just at lower level of the windows. At the end, just in front of the bathroom wall I want to put a freezer, one of the RV chest freezers on slides, so I can slide it out. So that whole wall would be turned into a countertop, with the chest freezer at the end next to bathroom wall. The support legs would come easily out so maintenance could be accessed, and the counter , something that looks nice, easily removed, possibly even in sections off the top of the frame. I could paint the frame, and simply put baskets underneath for storage, with some sort of system to keep them from sliding. I only need one bed, and right now the second bed is simply wasted space, when I have need for more countertop.
Can definitely be accomplished. Every time I see a twin bed class B and consider a single person, I want to rip out the second bed and put in a workstation! But one of my main rules in modification is; it must be returned to factory state easily and with little to no damage. So you have to design accordingly.
Read from a dictionary, it doesnt matter! LOVE IT!
Late to the party here - but: I notice you are not using locknuts, and those don't look like lock washers, AND I don't see any Loctite. How are you preventing the nuts from vibrating loose?
I do use lock washers. I do use Loctite. And in certain situations I use nylok nuts and loctite.
@@HumbleRoad ah ok, I had a feeling you were all over that, you're extremely fastidious. Thanks for the reply.
#795! Thx.
What about thermal bridging?
Looking very nice. 👌👍 I am curious about the retail cost of your strut framing...per lineal foot? And product name?
8020.net
Super cool. Did you make the brackets out of aluminum or steel? What grade? Pretty awesome build, no doubt.
Yes I did make the brackets from Aluminum. But no longer. Now I buy direct from 8020
@@HumbleRoad
Time savings this way?
How did u face them?
So the bracket is the only thing attaching the frame to the wall? That and the ceiling bolts?
Yes
I just got my shipment of 80/20 and starting on my upper cabinets. When you mounted the upper rail you slid the 80/20 onto the carriage bolts. I am thinking of using the Button head socket screws and using the jig I bought to drill access holes in the 80/20 so I can tighten them. This way I could remove the whole cabinet if needed. Any thoughts as to if this is a workable idea? I know I will have to be precise when I drill the access holes. Is that maybe why you went the way you did? Simplicity?
Exactly right! Drilling the access holes is hard to aligned then you are committed to that placement. In fact, I had to make a change to my galley cabinet. Had to slide it aft just a bit. No problem. Options!
Thanks. Happy building!
Hi Humble 👋 I have kept your water tank solutions at the fore front of my “interesting problems to think about ” list. Take a look at todays vid from RV Lifestyle about an ozone point of use water filtration system. I am skeptical pending technical standards and hard data but I understand the chemistry of ozone. Health Canada is skeptical as well esp if ozone treatments are used on hard products. If the research data supports the claims of this product I would be happy to evaluate it myself. Right now I travel with my own water, no tank 😬. Do you think a system like this would work in the new van?
At this point, this is what I am considering for my fresh water AS WELL AS my grey water.
www.buyultraviolet.com/bio-logic-uv-water-purifier-1-5-pure-water-pack
If my grey water can be purified back to what is legally deemed "clear water", then I can use it to wash the van, rinse my bike, or just let it out on the ground.
Humble Road Holee! 😳 I have assessed many methods for “cleaning water” for alternative living situations on land but for an rv? Do you have a process or unit in mind?
Humble Road Hi again 👋 which model will you choose? DC and micron? Do you know the draw? My experience would suggest 5 micron may be better in an rv situation. Filters will clog less and process more volume and need to be replaced on a more reasonable schedule. I worked for years on my rural well water that had some locally occurring sulphur. I ended up not spending $$ on an ultraviolet system (did use particulate and carbon filters replaced often) and running food grade hydrogen peroxide through the entire system when needed. Now the septic/black water that was another kettle of...lol 😂
I will most likely build my own system. I might purchase the UV portion of the build from this company. But I am hell bent on reusing that grey water in some fashion. I want never again to enter a dump station!
for winter van life, won't the attachment of aluminium/bolts to the metal van frame, have the cold come into the van? In canada we get days of -25 celcius at times.
In 99% of all instances where my aluminum extrusion touches the van chassis, there is a rubber thermal break in between.
@@HumbleRoad I c. Is there any rubber gasket for the screw itself, which is bolted to the frame of the van?
do u need a thermal break between the outside metal of the van and the aluminum inside
Yes. Use rubber or heavy mass vinyl. Lots of information in these videos for you to get started, Dan. Sorry I couldn't help more.
Looking at the 80/20.
Here we can get them in 40x40, 30x30 or 20x20
Is there any reason not to go with the 20x20?
I am thinking, that the stress level is quite low, since nothing is heavy (for example I imagine that the wight in the wall cupboards will be around max 10kg per 50 cm, lets just say 30kg to be in the safe range - that is still not a lot of load).
What am I missing, since I see most people use 40x40?
20x20 is way below half the weight, and below half the cost - so if no other reason, I would prefer to use those - but I know that all you do has been well thought of
I use the 15 series and the 10 series.
Hey George will you be using insulation other than the Thinsulate?
I will be adding more thinsulate to the smaller areas I did not yet address. Waiting to do some wire runs. Then mass vinyl layer over all. The vinyl application will vary, depending on the area of the van. For instance; wherever there is a wall panel, it will be an assembly of for example Lauan backed with mass vinyl and wrapped in fabric. An encapsulated wall board that is easily removed.
Thanks for the details.
Another quick question: Will you be using a vapor barrier between your Thinsulate and paneling or leaving open for air flow? Hopefully this question makes sense... I'm very interested in your take on the air flow vs vapor barrier discussion. I *think* you lean toward air flow wherever possible, even in insulated areas, but I'm hoping you'll clarify.
The panel will be completely backed, edge to edge with heavy mass vinyl. And then front wrapped with some sort of decorative fabric. That wall assembly will be buttoned to the van frame to act as the inner walls, yet remain easily removable. There will be air space behind the vinyl layer in and around the thinsulate. I do believe in air flow. I am careful to make sure there is no stale air anywhere in the van structure. Inside the walls, under the floor, between and around the appliances. Constant air flow will prevent moisture from turning into mold.
I very much appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. I look forward with excitement to every video you post.
Do you offer your services to build these cabinets for PROMASTER 136”. This would save me some BIG time. Lmk please
Sorry, I don’t do partial builds. Good luck with your build! 👍
❤
Hey buddy,
I just wonder if you could White down materiell list and where to buy them on Internett?
Sorry, I spend hours upon hours researching components and materials. My list is for me. If you’re watching my videos, I pretty much map out everything you need to do.
Beautiful work. Watching the cabinets go in made me wonder, will you be installing a vapor barrier of some type?
Thanks, Doug. Yes, I will have rear panels in each cabinet. coming up from the floor in the rear of the cabinet, up across the top and terminated behind the face. That panel will have mass vinyl on the back. The curve affords me a wire chase. And the panels are removable in case you want to do some additional work in the future. So rather than putting the vinyl insulation on the wall, then add the cabinet, I am incorporating it into the cabinet. The air gap behind adds to the insulate performance. In my little brain, anyway..
1 complaint: video 2 short - we luv your channel that much
Several have expressed your sentiment. In an attempt to return to your good graces, I will be reading select passages from a well received article, "Paramecium, Friend Or Foe?"
Are those metric sized bolts? And what size? In the 80/20.
I'm using all 5/16. 5/16 carriage bolts set in there nicely and are easily slid to place. You can get a 5/16 hex bolt in if you grind down one facet slightly. But it will not compress the profile flanges (which act on the locking characteristics) as well as a carriage or the 80/20 proprietary bolts.
Do you mind my asking if this is the 15 size 80/20? Thanks
Yes, inch and a half 80/20. The floor system is one inch 80/20.
Thanks so much George. I asked since I recall when you started on the floor you bought inch and a half and said you would hold it for a future projects. Thanks for the time you put in this project and for helping the rest of us learn. I wish you the best,! -Jim
question you call this profile alu 8020? what are the measurements of that profile in inch
8020.net
@@HumbleRoad thank you appreciated