у нас методика другая, втулка ставится с натягом в 1 сотку, после чего наружные кромки развальцовываются, внутренний диаметр достигается разверткой, либо на специальном станке. сажать втулку на фиксатор в данном узле довольно спорное решение.
да не будет скорее всего, он при 112 уже становится пластичный.я так подозреваю он не делал посадку в натяг потому что нет у его расточного станка чтобы потом подогнать под палец
it should have been a press fit as the hole in the bushing and the hole in the rod MUST align or no oil will reach the pin. this is done with an interferance fit. you heat the rod end to 350*f and grease and freeze the bushing to -20 to -35*f. you pres in via a press and then you can use a end mill to cut the final oiling hole.this ensures the port does not move. but with that, you should have cleaned up the rod end hole before measuring. using some scrotch bright in a drill and soime wd40 would have been perfect for this job.
Doesn’t matter what material he used that’s all preference I’ve used plain bronze and the motor has been freshened 4 times and no wear on the small end we’ve made them out of aluminum before and they last 50-60 shows before they need changed again
Zaujimala by ma zivotnost ? Ja by som to dal určite s presahom a potom vystružnikom. Pravdupovediac takto som to este nikdy nevidel urobit. Ale ak to vydrzi tak klobuk dolu davam 👌.
this video reminds me of my gang bought a franny barnet the big end had shot so we made brass bush for the big end it worked ok we had a lot ridding out of it and also done the same thing on my MZts 125 that were ok as well
When I first saw Paul do this, I thought I bet he gets some tasty comments. English isn’t Paul’s native language, and I saw “bronze” in the clip and thought hmmm, no Colisbro or Trojan (brand names), and before this and pressing out the bush, and later using Locite to retain it. For all you naysayers, it can work, it just depends on the loads, lubrication & materials, as I seen in far older engines, floating “bronze” bushes in connecting rods with much heavier pistons in car engines that survive a lot longer than most motorcycles with like for like roller bearing crankshafts, and others with no bushes in connecting rods (steel on steel) that only have low flow oil pumps. I do have a Delapena honing machine, so I could ream out my connecting rods, and do an interference fit, but in all fairness it’s horses for courses, and I can see why Paul does it this way, as he maintains concentricity and running clearance this way. My only observation is in more heavily loaded used connecting rods the “eyes” or holes can become oval, and it is usually best practice to hone this round again, but if you are measuring with a good quality bore micrometer, you can spot if this is necessary, and tbh I saw Paul using one. 👍
Absolutely....Peter the 80 year magician done one for me years ago when I was still in UK on my Tenere....the bronze retains oil or grease if I remember right....i should have made the time to learn more from him..
Dynamic load vs. unflex bonding is not a good partnership. And how could a thin layer of oil get in between pin and bushing? The fit is slightly too tight for that. It may run-in but is relying on failsafe running properties right from the beginning.
I have rebushed 2 Honda XR 600, they are steel on steel, no bronze bush.Bored little end and fitted bronze bushes, no interference fit and used high temperature Loctite, no problems, engineering in a can!
@@martinfriedrich2617 I'm not a machinist but the material is too soft for this application and the glue will not hold under temperature. You need a harder material for this application machined slightly bigger than the hole, it must be press fitted, then dornated and finally reamed to final size
Nice work but I don't trust that Loctite for a pin piston bush. Loctite 638 works at maximum 180 degrees and it is possible that the pin piston to reach that temperature because it is so close to the piston. But maybe I am wrong and it is not reaching that temperature because of the oil splash in the engine. Have you tested before this Loctite 638 for pin piston bushes?
All the comments and no one questioned why you've used plain bronze instead of phosphor bronze... slightly more expense but not much effort if you are going to this trouble Paul?
у нас методика другая, втулка ставится с натягом в 1 сотку, после чего наружные кромки развальцовываются, внутренний диаметр достигается разверткой, либо на специальном станке. сажать втулку на фиксатор в данном узле довольно спорное решение.
Why didn't made it tighter? It could rotate after some time
Don't worry, this repair method works.
Good job Paul!🇧🇷
4:04 That is a flex now!! :D Good job and greetings from Bulgaria
а клей будет держать на высокой температуре?
да не будет скорее всего, он при 112 уже становится пластичный.я так подозреваю он не делал посадку в натяг потому что нет у его расточного станка чтобы потом подогнать под палец
Don't worry, this repair method works.
@@Adamirkozlodoev можно было бы притиром подогнать после запрессовки
@@UA3USY да думаю банально найти развертку,тем более у его там круглое число.
Для оборотистога движка, мало одного смазочного отверстия.
Bush has no interference fit?
Nice job 👌👌👌👌👏👏👏
You have gold hands!
great job as always keep up the great work
Beautiful.
Cześć, wydaje mi się że pasowanie tej tulejki jest za luźne.
It should have been made to fit tighter, period.
Quá tuyệt vời bạn tôi tôi làm biến phiên dịch quá 😁😁😁
it should have been a press fit as the hole in the bushing and the hole in the rod MUST align or no oil will reach the pin. this is done with an interferance fit. you heat the rod end to 350*f and grease and freeze the bushing to -20 to -35*f. you pres in via a press and then you can use a end mill to cut the final oiling hole.this ensures the port does not move. but with that, you should have cleaned up the rod end hole before measuring. using some scrotch bright in a drill and soime wd40 would have been perfect for this job.
top!!
Doesn’t matter what material he used that’s all preference I’ve used plain bronze and the motor has been freshened 4 times and no wear on the small end we’ve made them out of aluminum before and they last 50-60 shows before they need changed again
Zaujimala by ma zivotnost ? Ja by som to dal určite s presahom a potom vystružnikom. Pravdupovediac takto som to este nikdy nevidel urobit. Ale ak to vydrzi tak klobuk dolu davam 👌.
this video reminds me of my gang bought a franny barnet the big end had shot so we made brass bush for the big end it worked ok we had a lot ridding out of it and also done the same thing on my MZts 125 that were ok as well
When I first saw Paul do this, I thought I bet he gets some tasty comments. English isn’t Paul’s native language, and I saw “bronze” in the clip and thought hmmm, no Colisbro or Trojan (brand names), and before this and pressing out the bush, and later using Locite to retain it. For all you naysayers, it can work, it just depends on the loads, lubrication & materials, as I seen in far older engines, floating “bronze” bushes in connecting rods with much heavier pistons in car engines that survive a lot longer than most motorcycles with like for like roller bearing crankshafts, and others with no bushes in connecting rods (steel on steel) that only have low flow oil pumps. I do have a Delapena honing machine, so I could ream out my connecting rods, and do an interference fit, but in all fairness it’s horses for courses, and I can see why Paul does it this way, as he maintains concentricity and running clearance this way. My only observation is in more heavily loaded used connecting rods the “eyes” or holes can become oval, and it is usually best practice to hone this round again, but if you are measuring with a good quality bore micrometer, you can spot if this is necessary, and tbh I saw Paul using one. 👍
Tetap semangat,,saya menunggu video terbaru anda
Я думаю можно было втулку с натягом сделать а потом подогнать отверстия во фтулки с помощью конуса прес есть я так делал на планетовскам шатуне
This could be applied to yamaha xt 600 also...bronze bush wears out and clack clack...
Absolutely....Peter the 80 year magician done one for me years ago when I was still in UK on my Tenere....the bronze retains oil or grease if I remember right....i should have made the time to learn more from him..
Repair was not made using technology. The sleeve was squeezed out by the press, and inserted by hand and even put it on glue.
people forgetting that it only does a half turn when in motion also cant come out because it's inside the piston ,good job it will be fine .
And still, the old one is f***ing worn to death due to half this revolution.
@@Q.L.Engineering Exactly!
mantap makde
Very good!
I'm from Americana SP Brasil.
Top Job,Sir👌
also fyi that glue will weakin and fail under pressure and heat.
What about the new bushing replacement
Is there a reason this was repaired instead of buying a new rod kit?
Just buy a new rod assembly.
too tight fit of the wrist pin
Dynamic load vs. unflex bonding is not a good partnership. And how could a thin layer of oil get in between pin and bushing? The fit is slightly too tight for that. It may run-in but is relying on failsafe running properties right from the beginning.
If it works and lasts without going wrong....its better than modern cars😂😂😂
I have rebushed 2 Honda XR 600, they are steel on steel, no bronze bush.Bored little end and fitted bronze bushes, no interference fit and used high temperature Loctite, no problems, engineering in a can!
Realy?!
Давненько у Вас не было видео.
Спасибо. 🤝🇷🇺
Wrong in so many ways
Where is the Problem if this method works?
@@martinfriedrich2617 I'm not a machinist but the material is too soft for this application and the glue will not hold under temperature. You need a harder material for this application machined slightly bigger than the hole, it must be press fitted, then dornated and finally reamed to final size
Ampco 45?
Klasik bronze
Come for the great video, stay for the dumb comments
Nice work but I don't trust that Loctite for a pin piston bush. Loctite 638 works at maximum 180 degrees and it is possible that the pin piston to reach that temperature because it is so close to the piston. But maybe I am wrong and it is not reaching that temperature because of the oil splash in the engine. Have you tested before this Loctite 638 for pin piston bushes?
Don't worry, this repair method works.
Genius.
All the comments and no one questioned why you've used plain bronze instead of phosphor bronze... slightly more expense but not much effort if you are going to this trouble Paul?
Or it should be bearing bronze CuSn7Zn4Pb7 (also known as CC493K or RG7 depending on country)
bad job! too loose fit, don't give me expansion rubbish, press and then ream
Unnecessary effort - this is how it works - 100%
Not for a long time
mantap
Первый, нах!
Он втулку сделал без натяга в шатуне а клей от нагрева отвалится
Согласен, посредственная работа
El buje tiene que entrar a presion en la biela,el pegamento no funciona....