Power input the device is a range of 10 to 32 Volts. Not having the luxury of an internal schematic to tell you absolutely, I am going to make a guess. The input power most likely feeds a DC to DC converter which will make the the different voltages needed for transmitter, receiver, and microprocessor circuits. No matter what the input voltage as long as it is within the specified range, the performance is going to be the same.
Correct there is absolutely a DC voltage regulator circuit inside all of these electronics. Any improvements in performance people are experiencing is most likely because of their initial installations are less than quality configurations and not sourcing enough clean power to their units. Crappy butt splices, insufficient gauge wires, crapy clip on leads to the the battery terminals, loose fast on connectors to blade terminals, cheap less than optimal inline switches or old dirty switches the list goes on..... Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
I'm a bit puzzled, you said you hooked up 12v vs 24 volt. The voltage reading on the graph had 12.8 v on both. Why didn't the voltage reading go up to 24 on the display?
The unit voltage display is what the unit receives. He is powering/repowering the GLS10 box with the 12v and 24v batteries. The unit itself has its own 12v power source.
The graph is hooked up to a 12v battery. The Livescope box is hooked up to separate batteries. He mentioned that in the video to NOT run 24v to your graph. The black box for LS is what he switched the volts on.
Great stuff I just ordered this system with the Ultra106, you mentioned dedicated battery, will my 31Agm crank not be sufficient? It also runs two solix 10s
Most likely the voltage is being measure at the chart plotters input and that always remained 12 V DC. He only increased the voltage input to the GLS 10 black box so this may be what we are noticing on the screen. Remember the chart plotter has its own independent 12 V DC input and the GLS 10 has a dedicated DC power input. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Power supply range is min of 10 to max 32 volts. Reason is not performance related. But allowing you to utilize your trolling motor power supply. In today’s world we all have multiply display units along all other boat accessories drawing from stater or house battery.
is it me ? or does the screen not show 12.8 volts in each view? is the 12.8 v only the chart plotter volts? I don't believe my panoptix allows for 24 volt connection. Maybe he is hooking the batteries up in parallel for longer endurance...the panoptix does use a lot of power and I have had it shut off due to low voltage.
I'm looking at a low noise 36v input DC/DC converter with dual outputs. 28VDC output for the box and 18VDC output for the displays. All other things equal, more volts but still within spec and clean voltage is less amperage draw a cooler running unit. Just wire the DC/DC in parallel to the trolling motor at the bow, run a small gage remote turn-on lead from the helm Garmin ought to make a system. People can put in three lithium for the trolling motor and drop filtered power to all bow stack components.
When you say “disconnect the batter”…….do you mean it has to be a “mechanical “ disconnection “ from the battery” or does the starter key do that function once it out of the “start” mode.?
Not a side by side comparison. Should have one unit running on 12v and one on 24v shooting same image. 2ft of water doesn't show enough detail. I have tested this on my boat. Huge difference especially 5-8 hours into the day.
The 1222xsv is rated for 10v-32v dc input power rating . Lots of guys including myself run the 18v Milwaukee lithium batteries and yes the image is better. If you want a better image, increasing the power to the black box won’t die it alone, that’s like plugging a 4K cable box into a 1080 television.
That's just plain incorrect, all of these units have built-in DC regulators that will convert the supply voltage to the correct operating voltage (as long as the supply voltage is within the acceptable range). Justin hit it on the head, people are seeing a difference because the higher voltage is compensating for a bad install. You won't see any difference between a dedicated 12v Lifepo4 and a dedicated 16V/24V Lifepo4 on your electronics, it's a gimmick to sell more batteries.
Because 24v was only ran to the gls10 black box, the head unit had a separate 12v battery so that won’t change. It almost got me too for a second till I remembered he said something about running dedicated 24v to the black box only.
In forward view less ghost tree if its pointing to the same direction. Would love to see it on foward in 20 or more death. This is really not a good comparison the deeper the more power is sent to out to transducer. I love Russle marine but people never do a real world comparison.
Yea, this wasn't a side by side comparison! The 24V was in twice as much much depth then the 12V. (24v was 3 feet of water & 12V was 1.7 feet of water.)
Perhaps you should run 12 and 24 volts to both the chart plotter and to the panoptix unit. Compare at differing depths too. I run both of mine off a single 18 volt Milwaukee compatible battery. Works great. I used a knockoff TenMore 18v 9 ah battery 2 days ago. It started off at 20.4 volts. After 5 hours, it was down to 17.0 volts and half a charge left. I didn't pay attention to any differences as the voltage dropped.
Sorry boss but you seem to have accidentally wired your batteries in parallel instead of series increasing the amperage instead of voltage which is why both screens show 12vdc.
If you look at the labels of the batteries, they are not facing the same direction. If they were facing the same direction, the longer label would be on one side and the removable month stickers would be on the other side. They are setup to where the removable month stickers are together meaning they are back to front which will link a positive to negative thus making it a series.
Power input the device is a range of 10 to 32 Volts. Not having the luxury of an internal schematic to tell you absolutely, I am going to make a guess. The input power most likely feeds a DC to DC converter which will make the the different voltages needed for transmitter, receiver, and microprocessor circuits. No matter what the input voltage as long as it is within the specified range, the performance is going to be the same.
This ^
Correct there is absolutely a DC voltage regulator circuit inside all of these electronics. Any improvements in performance people are experiencing is most likely because of their initial installations are less than quality configurations and not sourcing enough clean power to their units. Crappy butt splices, insufficient gauge wires, crapy clip on leads to the the battery terminals, loose fast on connectors to blade terminals, cheap less than optimal inline switches or old dirty switches the list goes on..... Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Great information! Russell Marine is the best! Their knowledge of the products is impeccable!
Thanks Russell! We appreciate you!
I'm a bit puzzled, you said you hooked up 12v vs 24 volt. The voltage reading on the graph had 12.8 v on both. Why didn't the voltage reading go up to 24 on the display?
I just watched this and thought the same thing. When I hook up my lithium batteries I believe it shows the actual voltage. Above 13
The unit voltage display is what the unit receives. He is powering/repowering the GLS10 box with the 12v and 24v batteries. The unit itself has its own 12v power source.
That's just the voltage to the screen. Can't be 24v to it or it'd be fried .
The graph is hooked up to a 12v battery. The Livescope box is hooked up to separate batteries. He mentioned that in the video to NOT run 24v to your graph. The black box for LS is what he switched the volts on.
Another awesome RMP video. Thank you, so much!!!
Great stuff I just ordered this system with the Ultra106, you mentioned dedicated battery, will my 31Agm crank not be sufficient? It also runs two solix 10s
Did you try it out at a farther range and deeper water by chance? I am wondering if that is when the extra power kicks in
Why in both screen shots showing system on 12v and 24v the video shows 12.8 v in both set ups ?
Most likely the voltage is being measure at the chart plotters input and that always remained 12 V DC. He only increased the voltage input to the GLS 10 black box so this may be what we are noticing on the screen. Remember the chart plotter has its own independent 12 V DC input and the GLS 10 has a dedicated DC power input. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
If it made a difference, why not just share your trolling voltage ?
if you are usuing lithium its a great idea.
Power supply range is min of 10 to max 32 volts. Reason is not performance related. But allowing you to utilize your trolling motor power supply. In today’s world we all have multiply display units along all other boat accessories drawing from stater or house battery.
Why does it say 12.8 on both of them
Great video brother!! Keep up the great work, I’m proud of you!! Eye of the tiger!!
THANK YOU! I have been contemplating this for 4 months.....solved!!!! Only gain would be longer run time.....
Both screen say 12.8v how you Come by 24volt?
The screen is showing the power going to the unit directly, not the power going to the GLS box.
@@RussellMarineProductsLLC Touche!
Hi, in 4:18 you have 2 screen 12 and 24, but on the screens you have 12,8 ?? So where is 24 ?
New to this. How do I wire the black
Box to 24v?
Was the 12v run straight from battery to gls unit. Heard bypassing all switches and better wiring helps
I seen a difference..24v seems better..
I just bought a live scope and Echomap uhd 93sv . So one battery for each? Haven’t received it yet. Please explain.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! - Crappie Kirby
Good stuff Justin! 💯
How does that work with starting batteries? Would you need dedicated batteries for just trolling motor?
Have you guys tried the 16v battery to both the gls 10 and screen?
Both say 12.8 volts on the display?
Listen to what he says in the beginning of the video. He's not changing the voltage to the display, ONLY to the Livescope.
is it me ? or does the screen not show 12.8 volts in each view? is the 12.8 v only the chart plotter volts? I don't believe my panoptix allows for 24 volt connection. Maybe he is hooking the batteries up in parallel for longer endurance...the panoptix does use a lot of power and I have had it shut off due to low voltage.
The 12 or 24 comparison on this video only covers power going to the GLS box, not the unit. The unit itself should show 12v
Don’t see all that much difference maybe a little brighter on the perspective mode
The side by side comparison is labeled backwards according to the time on the unit. Great video still.
Wow we notice every thing don’t we.they both say 12.8 volts
Thaaaanks!
I'm looking at a low noise 36v input DC/DC converter with dual outputs. 28VDC output for the box and 18VDC output for the displays.
All other things equal, more volts but still within spec and clean voltage is less amperage draw a cooler running unit.
Just wire the DC/DC in parallel to the trolling motor at the bow, run a small gage remote turn-on lead from the helm
Garmin ought to make a system. People can put in three lithium for the trolling motor and drop filtered power to all bow stack components.
Will you have a video on water color and screen color selection, I’ve noticed it makes a difference on seeing your bait.
Do you recommended running a dedicated battery just for ls or can it be hook up to the cranking battery if it’s already a 31 agm?
When you say “disconnect the batter”…….do you mean it has to be a “mechanical “ disconnection “ from the battery” or does the starter key do that function once it out of the “start” mode.?
The display is 12.8 volts on 12 or 24 either?
He had a 12v to his graph and 24v to the gs10 black box
Not a side by side comparison. Should have one unit running on 12v and one on 24v shooting same image. 2ft of water doesn't show enough detail. I have tested this on my boat. Huge difference especially 5-8 hours into the day.
Do I have to purchase 8 or 10 gauge wire with my new garmin pan optics unit.
10
Actually the echomap series can handle 18 volts and the gpsmaps series can handle 24 volts.
The ratings should be in the owner's manual
The 1222xsv is rated for 10v-32v dc input power rating . Lots of guys including myself run the 18v Milwaukee lithium batteries and yes the image is better. If you want a better image, increasing the power to the black box won’t die it alone, that’s like plugging a 4K cable box into a 1080 television.
You have to increase your voltage to your Garmin head unit also to see more of a difference in clarity
That's just plain incorrect, all of these units have built-in DC regulators that will convert the supply voltage to the correct operating voltage (as long as the supply voltage is within the acceptable range). Justin hit it on the head, people are seeing a difference because the higher voltage is compensating for a bad install. You won't see any difference between a dedicated 12v Lifepo4 and a dedicated 16V/24V Lifepo4 on your electronics, it's a gimmick to sell more batteries.
both videos showed you were at 12.8 volts in both videos...
Because 24v was only ran to the gls10 black box, the head unit had a separate 12v battery so that won’t change. It almost got me too for a second till I remembered he said something about running dedicated 24v to the black box only.
Both views are set at 12 volts, try again.
Why would you ever need more than 12 volt?
In forward view less ghost tree if its pointing to the same direction. Would love to see it on foward in 20 or more death. This is really not a good comparison the deeper the more power is sent to out to transducer. I love Russle marine but people never do a real world comparison.
Why is the ‘24v’ test showing voltage as 12.8v? 😂
Yea, this wasn't a side by side comparison! The 24V was in twice as much much depth then the 12V. (24v was 3 feet of water & 12V was 1.7 feet of water.)
Perhaps you should run 12 and 24 volts to both the chart plotter and to the panoptix unit. Compare at differing depths too.
I run both of mine off a single 18 volt Milwaukee compatible battery. Works great. I used a knockoff TenMore 18v 9 ah battery 2 days ago. It started off at 20.4 volts. After 5 hours, it was down to 17.0 volts and half a charge left. I didn't pay attention to any differences as the voltage dropped.
I don’t think you can give the chart plotter more than 12
@@bakervinci163all head units are rated up to 20v. Look at their manuals.
Yes and 8600 rated for 32 volts
What does this do to the warranty?
Black box is listed up to 32v and all head units are listed up to 20v. Doesn’t effect warranty
Of course not as these units have an internal regulator as most all computers. Notbtp mention most run at 5volts off the regulator
Both shot was still showing 12.8 so they show no difference..
Only rwo feet deep what gives with that.
My brain does not comprehend perspective mode. hah
Listen to what he says in the beginning of the video. He's not changing the voltage to the display, ONLY to the Livescope.
Why on the twenty four volt screen it said twelve point eight volts
Bill Mccoy it’s still 12 volts with 2 batteries, in parallel not in series. You don’t want to send 24 volts to it.
On the unit I’m saying, he’s supplying 24 volts to the black box of the livescope not the fish finder if that makes sense lol
It always shows the voltage supply to the chart plotter. He still had 12 volts powering it.
Bill Mccoy echomap can handle up to 30v per garmin, I had my Echomap on 24v, with no problems
It shows 12.8 on both screens
Head unit is running on 12v. Only powering the GLS10 (black box) at 24v and what you’re seeing in the screen does not show voltage of black box.
👍
Something ain’t right it still reads 12.8 volts mine reads 24 volts
Yeah it looks that same to me.
Sorry boss but you seem to have accidentally wired your batteries in parallel instead of series increasing the amperage instead of voltage which is why both screens show 12vdc.
If you look at the labels of the batteries, they are not facing the same direction. If they were facing the same direction, the longer label would be on one side and the removable month stickers would be on the other side. They are setup to where the removable month stickers are together meaning they are back to front which will link a positive to negative thus making it a series.
Head unit is running on 12v. Only powering the GLS10 (black box) at 24v and what you’re seeing in the screen does not show voltage of black box.
Windy.......
you still have 12.8 volts on both of them
WATCH the whole video. He is right. The difference you're seeing is voltage drop if you didn't size the wire properly.
No profound difference
Sorry but terrible comparison considering you are in 2' of water.