Project 1988 Honda VF750c Super Magna Part 3
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Today I finally get the actual brake service started on the Super. Decided to do the rear drums first since they would take the longest. This required removing the rear wheel from the shaft drive hub assembly. Ended the video with a little geetar playing. Still have to complete the front disc next. Enjoy
You got it all done because of Mel's assistance. Great job. Thank you and God bless
Great video.!
Supermagnas are special bikes for sure.
I've owned mine, a 100 % original 1988, since 2011, and I've had no issues with it so far.
Honda really know how to make quality bikes...
Don't change those. spray the crap out of it, I just got another vf 700, 29k miles on it, the guy I just bought it from didnt tell me the choke was stuck, things were bent, its rusty, and i just spent the last 8 days cleaning the crap out of this thing, it runs awesome, put some new Castrol oil in it) bike oil) oh, for 1100.00 i love this bike, had one before, two sportsters, three ninja's. I use my carter pins over and over unless they crack. We are SO different in many ways but I dont pay nobody to fix nuttin, not even my car and its 38 years old. Your magna is badasss! Best bikes ever dude. oh, took me two hours to unseize my back brake yesterday. i love this now, looks great!!! Yours is TOO clean.
I picked up a 87 last summer and glad to see this cus I have a squeaky drum that I have to check out. so much nicer to see it done. thank you
At 08:10, yes the manual does indeed say "remove the rear wheel", but it also says (page 14-3), which gives you the step by step for removing it. I have found the manual to be very intuitive and thorough.
Fantastic video!
And one handed! Not even Del himself dares to try it!
The guitar bit was the icing on the cake.
Cheers!
Cracking video Mike.You are going from strength to strength .Very clear and well explained and hats off to you for filming yourself till Melly came home.Seriously impressed fella and loved the guitar at the end.
i got my second a 86 had a 85 but there all great. You change stuff you shouldnt, 90% of dudes ONLY change parts when they are shot completely but you got a nice clean house, and a AWESOME ass bike dude. love it. lucky, if you still have it, keep it. I had my share of awesome rides before the kids but now a bit different. But Magnas kick butt, BEST bike for your money.
had the same colour but the 700cc they made just after this 750 because of engine size tax in US . The 750cc is better as I ride it. Only dislikes were too bouncy front end effecting quick standing starts and acceleration all round a real negative . (had mine stiffened) very poor single front disk brakes should have bee twin disk because you cant stop aggressively enough. Engine cooling water system prone to rust eventually ruining the engine. Bike could have been physically 30% larger overall to be taken really seriously. Great bike and design, later designs lost the plot ending my interest in owning another one in the very early 1990s. lovey potential of a bike. Also Changed the very feminie like handle bar to straight one back then. Love watching vids of the model as had mine for at least 5 years and rode everywhere in it a real head turner with those pipes too. Great Vid 100%
You are really helpful thankz sir I got a 99 magna an amazing machine👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing.
I wouldn't use an aluminum type grease on something like an axle because aluminum oxide is a very hard abrasive that is used in grinding wheels and sand paper. I would imagine over a long time it could actually eat away at high friction parts. Just my two cents.
Fitz anti seize is not
Mike, when you mentioned dropping the cotter pin in from the top, you mentioned you learned that from a aircraft mechanic, as a aircraft mechanic myself, I am kinda surprised you are not one because of the detail in your work, some of your terminology etc... I have people who don't like working with me because I always go the extra mile in everything I do, the aircraft mechanic in me I guess, and that always takes extra time that most people just want it done.. There is doing it right and then there is doing it right. I refuse to take my bike in because they wont do the little things or there is no guarantee they will, like clean up the axel bolt, lubricate the brake cam, even torque which I know a lot don't bother, all the little things that separate shade tree mechanics or guys working fast to get to the next customer, from those who expect nothing less then doing it complete. I have known guys to not only NOT flush brake lines after a brake job but also don't even bother bleeding them. Thats the opposite end of the mechanic spectrum. Like to see quality work, time spent going the extra step. I am very impressed and I don't impress easily. Good Job.. Bill
Bill Rycraft Nope, not an aircraft or any other type of professional mechanic. I do have a private pilot's license (VFR), but i haven't been current or up since 2003. Very expensive hobby. I enjoy motorbikes just as much and it's a lot more affordable. I have just always been detail oriented. Also I don't like the idea of half-assed mechanical work done on my motorcycle. I only have 2 wheels so the margin of error is slim. Tends to make you really concentrate on getting it right. Also, they publish shop manuals and torque specs for a reason. LOL! Thanks for watching.
Michael Rench Mike see a lot of variables on engine oil. I only use synthetic in my cars, which is only used in Jet engines for a reason, but with the wet clutch I am not convinced this is the way to go. I see people use Diesel oil aka heavy duty.. Mobil 1 has a racing oil that is a 10W-30, the other oil is a 20W-50 for bikes V twins.. What do you use if you don't mind me asking?Thanks..
Bill Rycraft Dave Dodge of DRP (Dodge Racing Products) recommends 10w30 Castrol High Mileage Synthetic Blend to use in Super Magna's. He raced for Honda in the 80's and knows the V4 inside-out. The Castrol High Milage Synthetic Blend has the correct friction modifiers for the wet clutch setup bikes use. It's cheaper than the Honda oil.
I would also recommend doing a valve adjustment soon. Many Super Magna's suffered from top end oiling problems and have pitted cams. DRP (and a few other companies) make a top-end oil mod that fixes the low RPM oiling issue on the top end. My Super had some mild pitting but it wasn't on the lobe apex. The valves adjusted just fine. I did the oil mod as a safety precaution. You can NOT get new cams / rockers for the 88 Supers (Hondaline had ZERO cams and rockers listed in parts for the entire world when I called). They have a different profile than the 87's (1987's were 700cc, in 1988 the Super was 750cc). If the wear is really bad all is not lost. There is a company in California (don't remember the name) that can weld, re-grind, and heat treat the cams / rockers. They can also custom build cams from billets. The 1987 cams can be used as cores if you need to get them re-ground. Not all Supers had this issue, but they all tend to oil stave the top end unless you do the oil mod. I use the Honda filter. I usually change the oil twice a season unless I ride more than 3000 miles in the year. I have a 2003 Triumph Speed Four that is my daily rider. The Super only comes out for nice weather & weekends.
Mike
Michael Rench Mike I was just reading on the DNP oil adapter, seen one by holeshot as well.. I appreciate you providing that info. When I don't know something I prefer to ask those who know more then I do. I will trust in the Castrol oil.. Just got the bike and am going over it, making notes etc... Getting new tires tomorrow. Will get that oil mod kit as well... Would never know it existed had it not been for your video. Keep up the good work, ride safe my friend..
You should show step by step on the reassembled drum
Thanks for the video getting ready to pull mine off need a new wheel. ? Were did you get your back rest and rack.
The back rest is actually a Gen 3 Magna with the side plates flipped left to right. Bought it off of eBay used. Finding an original Super Magna backrest with the luggage rack is almost impossible. I sold my Super to one of the curators of the Barber Racing Museum. I think they planned on a full restoration. Good luck, hard bike to find parts for. Cheers and thanks for watching.
Mike
Next time, leave the axle pinch bolt tight and then loosen the axle nut. That is a brake stay, not a torque arm. Torque arms limit twisting, brake stays stop rotation.
Thanks! I always appreciate pointers. I have a proper factory Honda manual now (not when the vid was recorded) so I have the proper procedures, torque specs, and terms. I just do the videos for fun. Not trying to do them as a DIY. It's more of a chronicle of the things I have done to the Magna. I am certainly no motorcycle mechanic, I mainly repair guitars (something I actually know a thing about LOL). If I get in over my head I take it to my local shop. So any information is always useful. Take care and hope the videos aren't too boring.
My motorcycle sleeve is getting hot when I handle it, the fan if it turns on and I have no idea what it could be
Am I wrong or did your plywood shim put weight on the pipes? Looked like your cut out wasn't thick enough to make sure the pipes cleared the large amount of plywood that surrounded it.
Thank you,. =)
why you skip few steps like disassembly of a drum?
Does the bike have to be in gear before you remove the wheel form the shaft or does it matter?
I had to put the bike in gear. The reason is that the shaft would free-wheel as I tried to pull the wheel off. I may not be 100% necessary, BUT it did make it a lot easier. Also when you go to put the wheel back on, if the bike is in neutral, the spline on the shaft just spins and doesn't want to line up with the spline of the wheel hub. With the bike in gear, all you have to do is rotate the wheel until the splines line up and it just slides on. Make sure there's a little bit of ether copper slip (LocTite Coper Anti-Seize) or Never Seize (Permatex Aluminum stuff) on the splines and axel. Just a really thin coating as you don't want it to squeeze out onto the brakes or other parts. On the Super Magna, the hardest part is just getting the wheel into position in the first place. You can't just slide it in straight. It has to go in at an angle to clear the hub splines on the shaft drive assembly. It's hard to describe but it "arcs" into position.
Hope that helps!
Cheers!
Mike
Michael Rench
I just drop the brake hub out before hand and then the wheel slides off horizontally
Uh, I'd say those webs are for strength not cooling...JMHO