Shop Tooling Project From Trash Axle . New Slitting saw Arbor
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 бер 2023
- In this video we take some steel from the scrap pile and turn it into useful tooling for the shop. I have needed but didn't have a 5/8" slitting saw arbor so now is a good time to make one.
Consider supporting Steve Summers UA-cam channel
Peanut Coffee Mugs/New design Tee shirts
teespring.com/en/steve-summers?
New design/Tee spring
steve-summers-3.creator-sprin...
Amazon Wish List
www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ge...
Huge thanks to all my supporters who make all this possible, If you would like to support the channel please consider joining my patreon page. If you would like to make a onetime shop donation or monthly follow the link below to my PayPal
www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
Join my Patreon page.
/ stevesummers - Наука та технологія
Thanks for taking us along. Another win,win... free material and another tool....the satisfaction of making it yourself. Ya dun good!
That dog sure had a lucky day to find your home, and she is paying it back with lots of love.
Quite a treat to have a Sunday Summers video; amazing how many views had already stacked up at 6AM on a Sunday morning.
Happy Sunday folks! Two uploads in one weekend…thanks Steve!
Thanks for the video Steve nicely done 👍✅. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️👍.
THIS is the slitting saw arbor i need in my life
Love the trash to useful tools!!
LOL break more axles= more tools:) thx for the 2 vids this week makes me happy.
Hi Steve, great video. For full annealing you need to hold the steel at bright red heat for a minimum of 20 minutes per inch of thickness and then allow it to cool slowly by encasing it in firebrick box. Half shaft material is notoriously tough stuff, but as you say, excellent quality!
Phil, UK
That is a mighty big lap dog that you have there, Steve
Steve, most likely, the axle shaft is induction hardened on the outer surface for wear resistance of the spline and bearing surfaces. It should be softer, but still a tougher alloy in the center. An axle would never be very hard throughout as heavy torque shock loads would shatter it.
Yes carburized 8620 would be a common axle.
Bye Cora... (so darn cute!).
You made an axle out of an old axle; seems fitting somehow. Nice job.
Great job , the more of those repurposed material videos the better 👍
Nice Video Steve. Good to see Kora is having fun too. Keep more projects coming.
Nice tool Steve. I hate seeing an eccentric slitting saw wobbling about cutting on 3 teeth!
@22:04 Thanks for covering up the end of the workpiece - I was sure worried about getting a chip thrown in my face ;-)
Love these early AM video releases! Thanks for the awesome content! 🤘🏻
Amazing as always Steve. Makes my weekend. You are spoiling us with two uploads. Bart RSA.
Those slits that you cut on that scrap cylinder make me think that you can now make custom spring collets with these saw blades.
Steve great video. I love to watch a master. I have one little detail I want to mention: That hoodie you are wearing; the hood ties hanging out give me the shudders... Safety......
love a bit of recycling😉
Nice content Steve as always, like to see some more home made tooling, it’s great to see a creative flare in people😅
Thanks, Steve.
Pleasure in a job well done and recycling to boot.🤗
Well done as usual.
Nice project makes me think of something I need
Steve, I learn best by following the path of the person I'm learning from. What is so enjoyable for me is that you often take the path least traveled. Your one of my favorites in my gang of UA-cam creators.
Thanks bud
Great video Steve. Practical and useful.
Well done!
Excellent job using scrap steel!
Love Cora, what a great little companion she is. You can show her any time.
Nicely done.
Nice work Steve...!!!
Thanks for sharing.
good video steve
Upcycling at its best.
I make almost everything in my workshop from someone else's scrap! I am a well known skip diver. He who dives deepest, gets the best scrap!
Great job Steve. Best wishes, Dean.
nice , shop made tools are always great
Nice tool using "yard art" Steve. I'm glad you and your family made it through the storm last week.
Thanks Ron
Nice job Steve! I have a Ford truck axle that I have been wanting to make a engine stand head out of for a while now I am inspired, thanks.
Its interesting how the oil seems to be timed with the runout.
Love the music that starts on 20:55
Getting under that case hardening...
Good video
☹🇬🇧
Made a great heavy boring bar using axle material. Watch your videos every Saturday morning with coffee before starting my day. Thanks Steve
Awesome!!
Great project I have to admit I really like your videos you have a very calming voice sorta like Bob Ross no offense .awesome idea on the axel shaft I wouldn't have thought of it .thank you
Thank you for sharing. A very nice "I made it" video project.👍
Slitting saw with no run out? Never heard of such a thing. 🤭
Steve, it would be interested to see what the hardness of the steel is closer to the middle since axles are case hardened, rather than through hardened.
I am a great fan of shop made tools. The price is just right and they continue to pay us back till our last breath. I remember trying to make a hammer handle from an axle with high speed tooling. What a gong show until the teacher got me straightened out, LOL. My introduction to carbide tooling was a love afiar to this very day. Oh my, my Starret drill chart has been in my small tap and die box for 45 years and is as readable as the day I got it. It is some kind of plastic. Yesterday you mentioned having a treat for us today and you held your promise. Thankx my friend. Take care eh.
Man, you nailed it. Steve, I've been a long time fan. In Australia, you cannot buy specialist steel unless you are willing to re-mortgage your house. I've been using hydraulic rods (4140 or near enough) leaf and coil springs (5160 or near enough) and axles (?) for twenty years or more. For the farm, it is perfectly good and best of all - free! I have never bought a tractor pin, arbor or even a morse taper tool. With the right knowledge, you can save a fortune. I know you are aware, but for others: As for annealing - get it as soft as your tooling will allow. Carbide will handle higher hardness than HSS, but a good slow anneal in vermiculite and you are golden. Don't fear the purists who say you must know the exact batch number and chemical content of your steel unless you intend to push it hard in an industry environment. Read up on heat treatment and the properties of your steels, don't overstress them and you will do ok. Do your own stress tests and heat treating tests, have fun and learn something. Wear the appropriate safety gear cos things can always take you by surprise.
Wow, as a novice I am always trying to learn. You seem to have acquired enough knowledge to become a rocket scientist. They say necessity is the mother of invention and I think you have nailed it. Stay safe.
Nice tool, and as it is made from a hard steel it should last a long time, even with hard use. Plus you still have the rest of the axle to soften, to make a decent 1in arbor for the other saws, so you can use all the teeth you got with them. I can see that axle making a good few more, especially for those smaller cutters for the mill, so you can do some work with them on the mill without having to move work to the big machine. Also see some cutter grinder arbors coming out of it as well.
Drill a hole through the holder shoulder for a pin and put 2 flats on the bushing so when your screw gets over tight you can rotate the bushing to loosen the screw. I have had to drill the screw head off when the blade over torqued the screw.
Quick tip for the dnmg, if it has a land on the cutting edge, your feed and depth of cut need to be greater than the width of the land, otherwise your just rubbing material off.
And you probably needed way more rpm's
Wow Steve. Useful, beautiful tool for the low low price of for free. And using the VNMG instead of the WNMG really improved the finish.Thank you so much for showing us your machining skills, and taking the time to make these videos. BR from Norway.
If you want the steel softer bury it in a bucket of perlite to cool slowly.
I think Cora is one of the best features of your shop upgrade. Thanks for rescuing her, she deserved it.
Thanks Steve A few years ago I hard turned and tool post ground a new and improved crank shaft for my 1940's John Deere #5 Sickle Bar Mower from a truck axle. Carbide lathe tools and end mills make this a fairly easy job. And when done you know you have a "factory" heat treated part without annealing and re-heat treatment. The tapped hole in your part would be a problem if working hard steel.
NIce work
Very nice educational video, and an extra day. You always do an excellent job on everything you do. Thanks for the ride along.
Class over, now can we go out in the shop and play 🙂. In your 20-30 minute on hands teaching, I learn more than 9 months back in our shop days. I know now why I smoked my saw blade when I attempted to cut one of my used 2 1/2in Ford Jubilee axes. Thx again for sharing, and through in the soft music, added a nice touch to the vid. Bear.
Nice job on the arbor Steve. Too many people ignore scrap material as stock for projects. Yes, it takes a few more steps or you have to run a little slower than normal, but at the cost of material today, it is a source that you should not ignore. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Steve, great video and workmanship, again you show your high confidence in your trade. Not sure way the part you used wasn't fully annealed, maybe you didn't want too, but I would had , also for easier machining and tools life extension, fallowed by the appropriate tempering . All good, but what keeps me on edge in most of your videos is the fact that you operate turning machines with those hood laces hanging off your neck?????
That mill is an absolute beast!
Nice job. I started to think at the end you were going to make a special sized collet.
That was definitely a win-win looking good
Great job Steve and a very successful outcome. That cut that beautifully mate! I too haven made stuff from broken half shafts of Land Rovers and at the moment have only one piece left from a Range Rover and it is absolutely glass hard. I don't have oxy propane ot acetylene facilities so at the moment I can't use this last piece. I also use what you in America call sway bar steel (also from a Range Rover) we call it anti-roll bar, which will cut nicely without softening and I have used that to make left hand Acme taps to finish out new feedscrew nuts for my lathe. I made a New Cross slide feedscrew and nut last year, and just last week made a new nut for my leadscrew as the original was completely shot. It's a very odd configuration being metric in diameter ( nominally 20.00 mm) but of 0.100" pitch ie.10 tpi and to be honest I'm not actually sure whether it's a trapezoidal metric ie. M20 x 2.54 or just plain 19.98mm (0.7866" ) x 10 TPI Acme I went with the 29degree Acme form as the depth of the thread of the leadscrew was 0.055" which is as close to the Acme formula of D= 1/2 P + 0.010" only 5 thou different and I couldn't find an equivalent in the Metric form for that pitch as standard pitch is only per millimetre . My leadscrew was pretty worn at the headstock end so I made two joining pieces, and chopped the leadscrew in two places at either end of the threaded portion and swapped it end for end so the unworn portion now is at the working end. My lathe is a Chinese lathe mill combination machine and the metric version went out of production last year. And only the metric leadscrew was available not the imperial so I had to resort to cutting and shutting the original. But now I have only about 4 thou backlash in the carriage rather than the nearly 35 thou it was before. Job done! Sorry for the longwinded comment Steve but I thought you might be interested lol cheers from England
Some carbide inserts require a pretty aggressive depth of cut and feed rate to get a good surface finish. When I did a lot of turning for commercial work, I'd push the insert so that the chips come off the part a straw color and turn blue in the chip pan. So yeah pretty aggressive. I always used flow coolant but mist coolant works well too and less messy. Most of the work I did was heat treatable steel. The parts were going for heat treat after I finished them and they got ground to finish size after heat treatment. For the home shop mist coolant seems to be the most practical and versatile and it doesn't make a huge mess. It's pretty cheap to implement and can be moved from one machine to the other easily.
Nice job, Steve. I watched [someone else on youtube] go to the greatest of pains to build an accurate arbor last week. His still loped WAY more than yours does. I'd say yours is the smoothest one I've ever seen.
Comment for the algorithm!
Beautiful job!
Nice useful project, thanks for sharing.
Axles and shafts usually run 35-45 HRC, which are usually machinable. a 55-65 HRC shaft would break in normal use. Unless the file *really* skates, the part is softer than the file. "Sort of" skating means they are within a point or 2 of the same hardness. Nice job, I hate wobbly slitting saws!
Thanks Steve I am definitely going to make one today
nice work
Perfect useful practical, nice work good sir.
Well done, filmed and edited.
That's a good way to do it. But an arbour for a cutting disc having hole of only 6 mm, nearly 1/4" other strategies work better. The disc centering boss will be very thin as the screw needs to manage tightening. I've made one that centered well but unfortunately the hole in the disc was not centered....
EXCELLENT video! I learn something new every video I watch.
Love your old Hendey lathe, btw. And the Greenfield tap wrench!
Hi Steve, VNMG/ VBMT tips are really good for finishing, you need high RPM's and a low feed rate plus flood coolant or oil. WNMG tips are great for roughing and you get six cutting edges on each tip, very economical. Take care with the grade of tip, GC4425 is a catchall grade for steels, and GC2025 for stainless steels ( Sandvik designations). Tip radius is also important I use 0.8mm for roughing and 0.4mm for finishing. This topic is a minefield for home shops, you cant stock all different grades and shapes of tips, but if you stick to these recommendations you wont go far wrong, keep up the good work. BTW love the soundtrack your truck makes, who needs a CD player.
Muy buena idea es usar una barra de acero de semi eje.
Muchas veces estos aceros se descartan porque nadie sabe que son reutilizables o porque no quieren ocupar tiempo en reciclar de la forma correcta👍
Hi Steve, you did a nice job. Another way to undercut that shoulder would be to grind your cut-off blade just opposite of what you did and run it in parallel to the centerline of the piece. Less chance of taking your pilot diameter, making it the same size.
Always learn something new when watching your videos. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I make knives in the most crude of ways. Homemade machines for the most part. Actually didn't know that you can soften axle steel by heating it cherry red a letting it air cool. Good to know.
Great video 👍 Nice DIY content and liked the music,I have made a slit saw Arbor but put a slight angle about 1degree on the shoulder face that's so it will have a slight spring too it and give a greater friction grip.
16:30 At first glance, I thought that you got a really bad cut on your fingers....glad you didn't....Great job BTW
Good morning, what I have used those used axles for is dog tie outs
Well done as always Steven, thanks for the video. Carbide needs speed, lots of it. Kick up the RPM. That 432 DNMG needs a deeper cut to wipe clean. Those were all pretty light cuts. Your VNMG liked those shallow cuts. Great tool
If I may but in here, the shape of an insert has little bearing on the cut compared to the chip breaker design, some chip breakers are designed for heavy roughing cuts while others are designed to take only a few thousand finishing cut. Best to consider the shape of an insert as being what fits your holder not how it cuts, and look in the manufacturers catalogue for which chip breaker suits your needs. With out this info it's like a shelf of unknown steel, it may do what you want or fly apart under load.
I don't even own a lathe but UA-cam has helped me learn about machining, If the goal is best end to end concentricity, can't you get there by turning between centers?
Steve I think thats about the least runout ive seen of virtually any slitting saw in ive seen on YT yet, as you said it seems they all have some runout thats just how the tolerances come new, but this one you cant see any runout from here and only hear very little compared to many ive seen. Some of the offshore stuff is sooo bad seems like only half of the blade is doing any work--lol
Nicely done as per usual Steve. To join in on the music debate, barely noticed it myself: Every shop I've worked in or visited has the radio set to some station or other and often to one I didn't like much. After a while I just learned to ignore it... After all my own shop was blaring music that others weren't always fond of!
If I like it I listen to it, otherwise it's just a beat going on in the background for me, kind of like you.
It's funny people getting all worked up about it, like it was poison or something hehe.
Wow we have been spoilt 2 videos in one weekend! Great video Steve 🤣🤣🤣
Hiya Steve
Hey buddy👍
Was hoping you would flame harden it and do some grinding. :D
Steve nice job! You can reharddan it ask Bryan Block
Steve, Great video on how to create what you need from scrap!
Sounds like you may have a "bad" bearing in your Do-All Vertical Mill Spindle?
Or at least it sounds to me like it is excessively noisy? Maybe microphone placement?
Hi Steve, nice useful tool. I'll bet you are itching to remake the larger arbor you showed that has excessive run out! I always hold on to what some would call scrap steel. As you said, that axle is high quality. I've been called a hoarder but, if you had to go buy an equivilent piece of bar stock, it would be pricey. Thanks for the video!
-mike
A shop exercise: Say out loud - "I am NOT a hoarder. I only keep stuff that might be useful some day." Repeat as needed. It has worked for me for many years.
@@kensherwin4544 I like that one. Perception is everything!
Great work Steve. Have you seen the channel Inheritance Machining? He also recently put out a video on a slitting saw arbor. Great content, much like yours.
Didn't run as good as this one though.
👍
Really nice, Steve. I'm a bit curious about how you use your thinnest slitting saws. I would think that they could bend to make an offset cut from where you wanted it. Also, could the blade buckle as you are first establishing the cut? Oh, and one small vote against the music, especially the softer music.
Hi Stuart, normally on thinner slitting saws you need to use a different arbor. You make largish diameter washers ( depending on the depth of cut), to fit either side of the saw blade.
Timely for me! Have just been roughing out one of these in expensive 4140 (I'm a city person - no rusty axles here). Anyone can do it? Sure...sure...I'll let you know.
Plenty of rusty axels around, they're just not free range like in KY. 😁
Check your local scrap yard. I stop by regularly and buy all kinds of usable metal for about 1/10 what the same material from the shorts bin at the steel supplier cost.
Many shafts that have splines on them,are induction hardened to a depth of 1/8” to 1/4”,depending on the diameter of the shaft.I seriously doubt it is through hardened.One way to find out is, to try to center punch the center on the shaft you cut off and,didn’t anneal.I am curious to know if it is through hardened or not.