Great piece. Pretty picture of her under sail. I can see why you're inspired. You've done a ton of work... I just painted the inside of my future LP locker and oiled some of the wood interior yesterday and I feel like a climbed Everest!
Hi wow what a lot of hard work pulling the boat /yacht apart but sooner or later, you will be putting her back together again and back on the ocean where she belongs. Keep up the good work. Love you videos Clifton from Australia the Thunder down under
I feel the need to point out that just because you can turn the propeller, it does not mean that the engine is not frozen up. You spun the propeller with one hand, which leads me to believe that the transmission is likely in neutral. The compression of a diesel engine is significantly higher than a gas engine -- it is doubtful that you could turn the propeller easily with both hands if it were in either forward or reverse gear (this is why many came with a decompression valve for starting). I would also caution you against even trying to turn the engine considering the condition of the cooling elbow that you showed in previous episode. If you have hopes of ever reusing the engine do not move any part of the drive line, you could score the cylinder walls by moving the pistons without adequate lubrication (oils have likely migrated into the oil pan over the many years of disuse). Remove the cylinder head, visually inspect the condition of the cylinders, and lubricate first with penetrating oil and then with a good 15W40 oil prior to turning the crank to assess engine viability.
@robertscholz4486 Thank you for all that info! I think that if the weather isn't total crap tomorrow, I'm going to detach the rudder, then I can decouple the drive shaft from the motor and remove it. After that, I may start tinkering with the engine. After all, it'll likely be much easier to remove it if I strip it down first.
The two cables are gearshift and speed control. The "T" handle is the fuel shutoff for stopping the engine. I had the same engine controls on my Tahiti.
Hopefully soon. I bought two big rolls of reinforced 2 ply greenhouse plastic, so now all I need is the lumber, fasteners, and concrete. I'm just waiting on my tax return to come in.
I have the book "A Ketch Called Tahiti" which has the original plans, but scaled down to fit in the book. The author of that book passed away a few years ago. The shipwright who built the boat is also no longer with us. The plans were first drawn up in 1923 by naval architect John G Hanna and then republished in a magazine in 1935 where they actually became popular. I want to get a set of full-size plans, but Hanna died decades ago, and apparently, his widow had been selling the plans, but I have no idea if she's still selling them, how to contact her, or even if she's still alive. So, unfortunately, I'm kind of at a dead end unless somebody comes out of the woodwork with an old set of plans or if I can figure out how to get a good, high-resolution scan of the plans in the book and find someone with a giant printer.
I'm just curious not being critical. Are you sure of your word working skills to bend those frames in and replanting it.I'm pretty skillful and I'm not sure I could do it.
While I've never done that sort of woodworking before, I've seen enough of it to be confident in my ability to get it done. I'm sure mistakes will be made, and frustrations will be common, but I'll get it done. One way or another.
Good idea, getting rid of that wooden tombstone! Awful! The engine gauges and controls would be better protected in the cockpit (although it's a bit awkward to see and get at them). If you go with other instruments (mounted chart plotter, windex, etc) you ight consider mounting them on the mizzen mast, one atop the other. That seems to be a thing on a lot of ketches.
@SlowlySailing-lc1cs Right? That thing was a mess! They didn't even caulk the seams of the boards on it... Shoddy work. Interesting idea, mounting instruments on the mizzen. I just checked sone measurements, and the mizzen boom gooseneck only sits 50" above the cockpit deck. I dunno how feasible it would be to mount electronics below that. We'll see.
@@SavingMaverick55 I'm new at this, but my approach is going to be less instruments. Definitely a good MFD chartplotter, with depth readout and eventually AIS and radar, but no speedometer, no wind gauges, etc. All I care about is speed over the map, and a ribbon up the mast will tell me about the wind. The sails and the tiller will tell me if I'm trimmed and balanced correctly. Fussing over apparent wind and hull speed etc. on a Tahiti seems silly to me... it's not a pylon racing boat. Sailors did very well without all that stuff for a long time, even on racing boats. Besides, most UA-cam sailors I've seen seem to have all that junk just so they can talk about it, lol. Almost forgot: FWIW, the center rudder hinge on my boat is "backwards"- in other words, the pintle is on the rudder, pointing up- thus preventing unshipping without needing a pin. I have no idea which is more common, or better in the long run, but to me, it seems more trustworthy than a little cotter pin. For you, it would mean new custom hardware, so it might be best to just live with that arrangement for a while.
@SlowlySailing-lc1cs I hear ya. I'm also new to all of this. I like your approach. I want to have some modern electronics, just in case, but I also don't wanna be reliant on them. I've actually been doing some research into astronavigation. I've got an old British sextant from 1945 and would like to be totally proficient in its use before I ever set off on a long voyage. After all, my boat has been across the Atlantic several times, long before any of this modern navigational equipment was ever dreamed up. Hell, Maverick doesn't even have any winches or an anchor windlass. Never did. I'll probably find some used hand cranked windlass, but I'm not installing winches or roller furlers. Those are just overpriced mechanical devices that'll fail when you need em most. I dont even know if I want one of those windvane autopilot thingies. Seems simpler to just point her downwind, trim the sails, and lash the tiller down. No extra fiddly bits to break. These traditional wooden hulls are designed to just point and go anyways. John Hanna designed these boats in 1923, only 25 years after Slocum completed his trip. On rudder hardware, I seem to have 3 sets of gudgeons with sections of rod, secured with cotter pins instead of proper pintles. If the weather doesn't suck tomorrow, I might try to take the rudder off and have a closer look.
Nina's former master told me she does fine on any point of sail with the tiller lashed with a bungee, once she's set up properly. The same characteristics that make these boats slow keep them steady.,and as a ketch, you have a lot of options to use sails for steering. But my long-term plan is to add a wind vane-driven trim tab to my cutter... Kevin Boothby at How to Sail Oceans has been using one for years... he's sailed his double-ended gaff cutter all over the world with a simple DIY wind vane for years (and NO engine, I might add). If you haven't seen his channel, check it out- very educational and inspiring, if you want to know how to keep things simple.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great piece. Pretty picture of her under sail. I can see why you're inspired. You've done a ton of work... I just painted the inside of my future LP locker and oiled some of the wood interior yesterday and I feel like a climbed Everest!
Hi wow what a lot of hard work pulling the boat /yacht apart but sooner or later, you will be putting her back together again and back on the ocean where she belongs. Keep up the good work. Love you videos Clifton from Australia the Thunder down under
Cart before horse, engine will show what it's worth when it's time. Keep plugging along!
I feel the need to point out that just because you can turn the propeller, it does not mean that the engine is not frozen up. You spun the propeller with one hand, which leads me to believe that the transmission is likely in neutral. The compression of a diesel engine is significantly higher than a gas engine -- it is doubtful that you could turn the propeller easily with both hands if it were in either forward or reverse gear (this is why many came with a decompression valve for starting). I would also caution you against even trying to turn the engine considering the condition of the cooling elbow that you showed in previous episode. If you have hopes of ever reusing the engine do not move any part of the drive line, you could score the cylinder walls by moving the pistons without adequate lubrication (oils have likely migrated into the oil pan over the many years of disuse). Remove the cylinder head, visually inspect the condition of the cylinders, and lubricate first with penetrating oil and then with a good 15W40 oil prior to turning the crank to assess engine viability.
@robertscholz4486 Thank you for all that info! I think that if the weather isn't total crap tomorrow, I'm going to detach the rudder, then I can decouple the drive shaft from the motor and remove it. After that, I may start tinkering with the engine. After all, it'll likely be much easier to remove it if I strip it down first.
The two cables are gearshift and speed control. The "T" handle is the fuel shutoff for stopping the engine. I had the same engine controls on my Tahiti.
Good info! Thanks!
Duracell is building the rest of there boat shed this week, so maybe you got a boat shed in the works
Hopefully soon. I bought two big rolls of reinforced 2 ply greenhouse plastic, so now all I need is the lumber, fasteners, and concrete. I'm just waiting on my tax return to come in.
Do you have the original plans for the vessel . if so, are you going to rebuild to those plans?
I have the book "A Ketch Called Tahiti" which has the original plans, but scaled down to fit in the book. The author of that book passed away a few years ago. The shipwright who built the boat is also no longer with us. The plans were first drawn up in 1923 by naval architect John G Hanna and then republished in a magazine in 1935 where they actually became popular. I want to get a set of full-size plans, but Hanna died decades ago, and apparently, his widow had been selling the plans, but I have no idea if she's still selling them, how to contact her, or even if she's still alive. So, unfortunately, I'm kind of at a dead end unless somebody comes out of the woodwork with an old set of plans or if I can figure out how to get a good, high-resolution scan of the plans in the book and find someone with a giant printer.
@@SavingMaverick55 Keep searching, you'll get there in the end. Try Wooden Boat magazine, maybe their archives has something.
I'm just curious not being critical. Are you sure of your word working skills to bend those frames in and replanting it.I'm pretty skillful and I'm not sure I could do it.
While I've never done that sort of woodworking before, I've seen enough of it to be confident in my ability to get it done. I'm sure mistakes will be made, and frustrations will be common, but I'll get it done. One way or another.
Good idea, getting rid of that wooden tombstone! Awful!
The engine gauges and controls would be better protected in the cockpit (although it's a bit awkward to see and get at them). If you go with other instruments (mounted chart plotter, windex, etc) you ight consider mounting them on the mizzen mast, one atop the other. That seems to be a thing on a lot of ketches.
@SlowlySailing-lc1cs Right? That thing was a mess! They didn't even caulk the seams of the boards on it... Shoddy work.
Interesting idea, mounting instruments on the mizzen. I just checked sone measurements, and the mizzen boom gooseneck only sits 50" above the cockpit deck. I dunno how feasible it would be to mount electronics below that. We'll see.
@@SavingMaverick55 I'm new at this, but my approach is going to be less instruments. Definitely a good MFD chartplotter, with depth readout and eventually AIS and radar, but no speedometer, no wind gauges, etc. All I care about is speed over the map, and a ribbon up the mast will tell me about the wind. The sails and the tiller will tell me if I'm trimmed and balanced correctly. Fussing over apparent wind and hull speed etc. on a Tahiti seems silly to me... it's not a pylon racing boat. Sailors did very well without all that stuff for a long time, even on racing boats.
Besides, most UA-cam sailors I've seen seem to have all that junk just so they can talk about it, lol.
Almost forgot: FWIW, the center rudder hinge on my boat is "backwards"- in other words, the pintle is on the rudder, pointing up- thus preventing unshipping without needing a pin. I have no idea which is more common, or better in the long run, but to me, it seems more trustworthy than a little cotter pin.
For you, it would mean new custom hardware, so it might be best to just live with that arrangement for a while.
@SlowlySailing-lc1cs I hear ya. I'm also new to all of this. I like your approach. I want to have some modern electronics, just in case, but I also don't wanna be reliant on them. I've actually been doing some research into astronavigation. I've got an old British sextant from 1945 and would like to be totally proficient in its use before I ever set off on a long voyage. After all, my boat has been across the Atlantic several times, long before any of this modern navigational equipment was ever dreamed up. Hell, Maverick doesn't even have any winches or an anchor windlass. Never did. I'll probably find some used hand cranked windlass, but I'm not installing winches or roller furlers. Those are just overpriced mechanical devices that'll fail when you need em most. I dont even know if I want one of those windvane autopilot thingies. Seems simpler to just point her downwind, trim the sails, and lash the tiller down. No extra fiddly bits to break. These traditional wooden hulls are designed to just point and go anyways. John Hanna designed these boats in 1923, only 25 years after Slocum completed his trip.
On rudder hardware, I seem to have 3 sets of gudgeons with sections of rod, secured with cotter pins instead of proper pintles. If the weather doesn't suck tomorrow, I might try to take the rudder off and have a closer look.
Nina's former master told me she does fine on any point of sail with the tiller lashed with a bungee, once she's set up properly.
The same characteristics that make these boats slow keep them steady.,and as a ketch, you have a lot of options to use sails for steering.
But my long-term plan is to add a wind vane-driven trim tab to my cutter... Kevin Boothby at How to Sail Oceans has been using one for years... he's sailed his double-ended gaff cutter all over the world with a simple DIY wind vane for years (and NO engine, I might add).
If you haven't seen his channel, check it out- very educational and inspiring, if you want to know how to keep things simple.
@SlowlySailing-lc1cs I've been watching HTSO for a while now. That guys the real deal.
Re planking
sometimes I think your screwdriver is not really needed;)
Which one? Lol!